To be fair, the 3 month recommendation is to prevent the absolute worst-case scenario which is quite unlikely. But because I can't see inside my cylinder and don't want to test my cylinder for every possible contaminant before a dive, I'll err on the side of caution and pay the small amount for an air fill.
Hello Mark. I am on a Facebook Group and asked this question. Got mixed answers. I use an Aluminum 80cf. This March I am Hoping to get it Inspected and Cleaned for Nitrox.
Hi Mark Does this mean you have to totally drain the tank or just empty say half and then give it a fresh top up? I drain my tanks at a slow rate which was the way I was always advised rather than stressing the tank valve. As always thanks for all the great tips and hello from Denmark.
I don't think there's much of a long-term effect of a working pressure amount. You can stretch the threads from _over_-filling a cylinder. But as far as I know, it won't affect the cylinder at a normal pressure.
#askmark I got some secondhand cylinders which are a bit scuffed and you can see the steel. - can I repaint them? - can I use an angle grinder to clean them? - should I get them powder coated? - are there any colours to specifically choose or avoid?
I think you should avoid ALL of your suggestions and have them hydrostati tested and serviced at a dive shop. DIY with life support equipment is not something you want to be messing with
#askmark what's the best way to get water out of a jacket style bcd. i travel with my bcd and don't want to be overweight because of water i didn't drain
On my bcd I have the option to remove the inflator hose. This effectively creates a hole where I rinse the inside. Get the nasties out and all that. You can do it in the shower or bath. Be careful though some bcd have a spring in them. They are not high pressure but enough force for it to jump away. But answering your question: remove the inflator hose and turn it upside down where the hole is and wait for the water to exit your bcd. This also is a very good time to check the rubber ring in the hose and check if it's still ok. Make absolutely sure that you reattach it correctly. Inflate it and check with soapy water if it leaks or not. Also do not over tighten it. Am I missing anything mark? #askmark
Personally, I orally inflate it to about 80-90% volume, then hang it upside down with the oral inflate hose being at the lowest point. After about an hour I press the oral inflate to let any accumulated water out. I then repeat another couple of times until no more water comes out. If there does happen to be any water left in at that point, then those few drops aren't what are making my luggage overweight...
Inflate the BCD and hang it up by the front waist strap. That usually allows any moisture inside to drip down and collect in the inflator hose. You want to make the inflator hose the lowest point and avoid any corners where water can collect. After an hour or so press the purge button and most of the water will flow out. At the end of each dive I'll pull on the kidney dump while leaning a bit to let as much water out as possible. That helps prevent water from collecting.
How do i store my cylinder best over the winter, for example? In winter i normally don`t go diving (for 4-5 month), should i fill it completely and than empty it and fill it again when going diving again?
@@dominikhau4061 as Mark mentioned in the video, leave about 50 bar in - worked well for me when I went for a 6 month diving trip. Also found the same info on another site. The 3 month breathing gas storage limit was news to me. After the trip I got the cylinder topped up and went diving all the same... will be emptying it next time!
Thanks for this. Usually the longest my tanks sit without being used is 3 months. I don’t dive a lot in the winter months anymore so it’s something to consider.
I store mine upright at 10-50bar. That keeps the moisture out and any contaminants will settle to the bottom of the cylinder. I strap mine to a wall so they stay upright. It's not the end of the world if you forget about a full cylinder but, if any get upwards of 3 months old I'll just get a fresh fill before my next dive.
Excellent question that I never thought of. I dive all year around with my normal cylinders but never thought of this question for my pony....Thanks!
Awesome content - had no idea!
I asked that question to My highly regarded instructor 45 years ago and he said the air would last indefinitely. I always believed that , yikes 😬
To be fair, the 3 month recommendation is to prevent the absolute worst-case scenario which is quite unlikely. But because I can't see inside my cylinder and don't want to test my cylinder for every possible contaminant before a dive, I'll err on the side of caution and pay the small amount for an air fill.
I usually crack a valve open a bit and wrap a towel around it, does makes it decently quiet.
Hello Mark. I am on a Facebook Group and asked this question. Got mixed answers. I use an Aluminum 80cf. This March I am Hoping to get it Inspected and Cleaned for Nitrox.
Hi Mark
Does this mean you have to totally drain the tank or just empty say half and then give it a fresh top up? I drain my tanks at a slow rate which was the way I was always advised rather than stressing the tank valve.
As always thanks for all the great tips and hello from Denmark.
#ASKMARK Is there a further downside to leaving your tanks full for extended periods, like metal fatigue and/or greater likelihood of failing a hydro?
I don't think there's much of a long-term effect of a working pressure amount. You can stretch the threads from _over_-filling a cylinder. But as far as I know, it won't affect the cylinder at a normal pressure.
Those HH LIFA merino base layers are great!
I could be wrong but do not put oxygen mixtures into your car tires! It can cause a fire regular air sure but just be aware.
Dive all year round, but I will dive my s40 every 4 weeks if i have not needed it before then as for cost if its just 21% its 11$ to $15 a cylinder
#askmark I got some secondhand cylinders which are a bit scuffed and you can see the steel.
- can I repaint them?
- can I use an angle grinder to clean them?
- should I get them powder coated?
- are there any colours to specifically choose or avoid?
I think you should avoid ALL of your suggestions and have them hydrostati tested and serviced at a dive shop. DIY with life support equipment is not something you want to be messing with
I agree with johnjob, no DIY jobs on cylinders (or regulators, 1st and 2nd stage)
#askmark what's the best way to get water out of a jacket style bcd. i travel with my bcd and don't want to be overweight because of water i didn't drain
On my bcd I have the option to remove the inflator hose. This effectively creates a hole where I rinse the inside. Get the nasties out and all that. You can do it in the shower or bath. Be careful though some bcd have a spring in them. They are not high pressure but enough force for it to jump away.
But answering your question: remove the inflator hose and turn it upside down where the hole is and wait for the water to exit your bcd. This also is a very good time to check the rubber ring in the hose and check if it's still ok. Make absolutely sure that you reattach it correctly. Inflate it and check with soapy water if it leaks or not. Also do not over tighten it.
Am I missing anything mark? #askmark
Personally, I orally inflate it to about 80-90% volume, then hang it upside down with the oral inflate hose being at the lowest point. After about an hour I press the oral inflate to let any accumulated water out. I then repeat another couple of times until no more water comes out. If there does happen to be any water left in at that point, then those few drops aren't what are making my luggage overweight...
Inflate the BCD and hang it up by the front waist strap. That usually allows any moisture inside to drip down and collect in the inflator hose. You want to make the inflator hose the lowest point and avoid any corners where water can collect. After an hour or so press the purge button and most of the water will flow out.
At the end of each dive I'll pull on the kidney dump while leaning a bit to let as much water out as possible. That helps prevent water from collecting.
I leave gas in my bailout cylinders for a diving session.
How do i store my cylinder best over the winter, for example? In winter i normally don`t go diving (for 4-5 month), should i fill it completely and than empty it and fill it again when going diving again?
@@dominikhau4061 as Mark mentioned in the video, leave about 50 bar in - worked well for me when I went for a 6 month diving trip. Also found the same info on another site. The 3 month breathing gas storage limit was news to me. After the trip I got the cylinder topped up and went diving all the same... will be emptying it next time!
Thanks for this. Usually the longest my tanks sit without being used is 3 months. I don’t dive a lot in the winter months anymore so it’s something to consider.
I store mine upright at 10-50bar. That keeps the moisture out and any contaminants will settle to the bottom of the cylinder. I strap mine to a wall so they stay upright.
It's not the end of the world if you forget about a full cylinder but, if any get upwards of 3 months old I'll just get a fresh fill before my next dive.