I’ve just watched a so called professional do a similar thing to this, but I knew by watching him, it was not good enough. You have done a far better job than him. This is the standard that I would be happy with. I am doing the same job on my own van. Thank you. 👍
Great Video! loved the bit where you've nearly finished it, all you need to do is leave it alone, but your like every good diy'er and have to play some more and blow a great big hole in it hahaha. Doing mine soon, so thanks for this!
Try to take it back as far as you can, unfortunately the rust has came back in a part I thought I might have gotten away with, so this time I'm going to cut my losses and for about £45 buy a new rocker sill cover. Just awaiting the parents to agree on it. Then I'll do another video.
To anyone else about to try this, shield your work if using mig gas, the wind will take the shielding gas away, cut more out than you think you need to, as soon as you weld thin metal it will blow through, you need to cut back to good solid metal, inner sills need to be repaired properly unless you want the car collapsing when jacked up, no gas mig welding can be a good option, but you still need good metal, thin rusty metal will blow and pop holes regardless, always have a spotter to watch when welding, its easy to set things on fire without noticing. Grind so sparks go downwards or away from glass, the hot sparks can and will stick to glass and paint, later to go rusty, better and safer for your eyes anyway. check if your grinding pads/discs have a date on them, they don't last forever and don't like damp conditions.
I would say get a second hand one, definitely mig. But if you have a Tig then use that. But considering you are asking I assume not. Check out the forums for upgrades and reviews. Mine is a sip, they didn't give great reviews from it. But it was an upgrade from a dual power/speed gasless which sucked. Check out the forum and tutorials from here www.mig-welding.co.uk/
@@ifell3 I have a car where the rot goes into what I believe is called the support and back sills, it's a huge mess and I'm debating what to do. I bet we agree about hating rust.
@@ZippyPenguinTribute one bloke in the comments recommended using a gasless MIG. I had a cheapish FCAW that was ok for thick metal, that eventually was used in another video to rehouse my SMAW. I brought my GMAW off of eBay for about £50, power and wire feed settings are the most important for dialing in on thin metal. The thicker the metal you can hang around in the puddle for a bit longer, the thinner gauze stuff you want just the right amount of power. Also adjusting wire feed speed can have an effect on how much amperage and burn through you get. It's a thin line, the more settings the better.
Nice to see someone doing a proper job of the welding instead of these bodgers that cut it out and then stick metal over the top or rivet it and cover it with 1/2 an inch of filler.
Tidy job mate. Looks like exactly how I did mine except I injected wax into the whole sill. Dynax S50 by Bilt Hamber. Wouldn't touch anything by hammerite. I live by the sea so I know what works and what won't 😊.
@@ifell3 My old Bora is 18 years old, gives 70+mpg but has a bit of the old tinworm in the usual places. Just spent nearly £700 on a mini restoration. Mrs thinks I'm nuts as could have bought another for a few £££ more. Women don't get that us blokes LIKE to tinker with cars and stuff. The satisfaction from doing the job yourself is priceless when you can stand back and say "Yeah, I'm pleased with that". They just look at us like were mad, then they go and buy another pair of shoes 😂
@@siliquaesid703 there is a lot to learn from women, I realize that we men are trapped in our own box, they see beyond it and do not care about other than that.
@@siliquaesid703 yeah my girlfriend said why am I bothering welding my sills on my car why don’t I just leave it until it’s bad and has a hole in it. Thing is it’s already bad once it’s bubbling on the surface and I want to save it whilst I’ve got a chance lol
Yes I always do, I never used too 20 years ago but everything is electronic now. I think I may have even disconnected the ECU too. Always place the ground as close as possible, I connected under the sil.
No, it's structural. Especially if you were to go on and sell, knowing that you bodged it. Then imagine an accident caused (somehow) because of the work you done. Then imagine you brought it from someone who had done this.
Yes, older cars you never really had to bother so much, newer cars are all electronic and need only small voltages and current for a signal. Definitely at least earth, and keep the ground as close as possible to the welding area. Best to be 100% sure i would be to disconnect battery and ecu. Some cars don't even like being jump started these days!!
Yeah right, I came to notice that most times I blew through there was poor quality metal. I had to enlarge the section because I was just wasting my time.
Thank you, the metal was .9 mm in thickness, from previous experience of welding sheet steel is flux burns way to hot, same with stick. I also tried to time the weld between wind as best as I could. Thank you
@@ifell3 Nah you can flux core bodywork with a combination of torch angle and less time on the trigger. I've used it for years outside it's just more difficult to use.
@@jimmyk9523 I used to use one on a MK2 escort I had and it was a right pain in the arse. Yes you can but was way more difficult. For me anyway, if you two can weld a continuous bead you guys are better welders than myself 😉
@@ifell3 Wasn't knocking your welding just saying you can use it. No one can run a continuous weld on metal this thin, it'd blow through quick. I enjoyed the videos anyway.
@@jimmyk9523 Sorry if that sounded a little salty, wasn't meant to be. I had a gasless maypole two power setting and that also changed the wire speed, bloody pita!! Funny enough I've just used its case in a video I've just done to rehouse an old stick transformer^^
Yes you are correct, I can't remember my reason now. It could have been because the metal behind was not guaranteed to be clean. I think I mentioned this in one of my other comments. ATB
Yes, you can buy the outer for sure on eBay. It's not actually that expensive I think it was £45ish. Just make sure you support the car properly in the middle to stop and sagging.
It's hard to say, the metal was about a tenner I think, but have loads left over, same with things like the welding gas and wire. Grinding discs and sandpaper I all ready had. To be honest it would be easier to buy a new sill for £40 and just cut out the old, treat and weld on a new. Wouldn't have to bother filling too.
@@ifell3 thanks mate, actually i'm a car supplier from Japan and i supply in Ireland .my customer had a problem with his car had soot stains underneath the sills, so i was just looking how much would cost him.
@@shootingsportstransparency7461 used engine oil is acidic , and it floats on water actually trapping in moisture and doing more damage long term ,,, what no need is something like ACF50 , if they ever start using used engine oil on helicopters and aircraft Ill switch , till then its a total no no , The other thing is that ACF50 wont burn , so if you have to go back for a repair the car wont catch fire . a car full of oil is not a pleasant thing to weld . Just my thoughts , but it may give you something to have a think about on future projects.
@@tomthompson7400 Engine oil will penetrate a steel surface and is having additives with make it bind water. but if you love to pay a lot of money for a commercial product i'm ok with it. The chimney of the AFC 50 salesman needs to smoke to, I'm sure he even want's to drive a luxury European car.
@@shootingsportstransparency7461 have you tried it ,,, give it a go and see ,,, I give two years warranty on any repair I do , and its only the use of acf that lets me do that ,, i get a lot of repeat customers and no warranty , seriously give it a go and see.
![Ford Transit Van Rust Holes [MOT FAIL!] Welding Repair Guide For UK 2.2 FWD Van | 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XV0XitYZ_EQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve just watched a so called professional do a similar thing to this, but I knew by watching him, it was not good enough. You have done a far better job than him. This is the standard that I would be happy with. I am doing the same job on my own van. Thank you. 👍
Cheers buddy. Make sure you remove all the rust, I might have to go over this again, be aggressive with the rust!!
Have to do this soon myself, thanks for sharing
I would buy the complete sill and cut the old one out if I had to do this again. But make sure the car is probably supported in the middle.
Great Video! loved the bit where you've nearly finished it, all you need to do is leave it alone, but your like every good diy'er and have to play some more and blow a great big hole in it hahaha. Doing mine soon, so thanks for this!
Try to take it back as far as you can, unfortunately the rust has came back in a part I thought I might have gotten away with, so this time I'm going to cut my losses and for about £45 buy a new rocker sill cover. Just awaiting the parents to agree on it. Then I'll do another video.
Excellent video, proper job.
Well done.
Thank you.
To anyone else about to try this, shield your work if using mig gas, the wind will take the shielding gas away, cut more out than you think you need to, as soon as you weld thin metal it will blow through, you need to cut back to good solid metal, inner sills need to be repaired properly unless you want the car collapsing when jacked up, no gas mig welding can be a good option, but you still need good metal, thin rusty metal will blow and pop holes regardless, always have a spotter to watch when welding, its easy to set things on fire without noticing. Grind so sparks go downwards or away from glass, the hot sparks can and will stick to glass and paint, later to go rusty, better and safer for your eyes anyway. check if your grinding pads/discs have a date on them, they don't last forever and don't like damp conditions.
Well said, yes it was shielded from a sheet, thank you.
Hi, what's a good welder to use for a decent price.
I would say get a second hand one, definitely mig. But if you have a Tig then use that. But considering you are asking I assume not. Check out the forums for upgrades and reviews. Mine is a sip, they didn't give great reviews from it. But it was an upgrade from a dual power/speed gasless which sucked.
Check out the forum and tutorials from here www.mig-welding.co.uk/
OK, thank you.
Wow, I've been through some of the exact things like burning out weak areas. You are doing a great job.
It's a pain right, just got to keep on going. If had to do again I would cut the sill out and replace!
@@ifell3 I have a car where the rot goes into what I believe is called the support and back sills, it's a huge mess and I'm debating what to do. I bet we agree about hating rust.
Repair looks good.
Great video.
Cheers fella, make sure you cut all the rust out, less is less in this case.
Good video mate thanks for uploading 👍
Thats a very good job.
Thank you
Great vid, question what welder do you use as I keep blowing holes with mine ends up like a collender!
Gas MIG, do it in little bursts, clean metal and a good earth. Use a mixture of gas too, pure c02 will give hotter penetration, which you don't want.
@@ifell3 Thanks buddy for the reply, was looking at gasless MIGS but guessing no good pretty cheap reason being.
@@ZippyPenguinTribute one bloke in the comments recommended using a gasless MIG. I had a cheapish FCAW that was ok for thick metal, that eventually was used in another video to rehouse my SMAW. I brought my GMAW off of eBay for about £50, power and wire feed settings are the most important for dialing in on thin metal. The thicker the metal you can hang around in the puddle for a bit longer, the thinner gauze stuff you want just the right amount of power. Also adjusting wire feed speed can have an effect on how much amperage and burn through you get. It's a thin line, the more settings the better.
Nice to see someone doing a proper job of the welding instead of these bodgers that cut it out and then stick metal over the top or rivet it and cover it with 1/2 an inch of filler.
Cheers fella!
Tidy job mate. Looks like exactly how I did mine except I injected wax into the whole sill. Dynax S50 by Bilt Hamber. Wouldn't touch anything by hammerite. I live by the sea so I know what works and what won't 😊.
Cheers fella, yeah I wish I had spent some money on some wax. First sill repair in years, the choice of protection is overwhelming!!
@@ifell3 My old Bora is 18 years old, gives 70+mpg but has a bit of the old tinworm in the usual places.
Just spent nearly £700 on a mini restoration. Mrs thinks I'm nuts as could have bought another for a few £££ more. Women don't get that us blokes LIKE to tinker with cars and stuff. The satisfaction from doing the job yourself is priceless when you can stand back and say "Yeah, I'm pleased with that". They just look at us like were mad, then they go and buy another pair of shoes 😂
@@siliquaesid703 there is a lot to learn from women, I realize that we men are trapped in our own box, they see beyond it and do not care about other than that.
@@siliquaesid703 yeah my girlfriend said why am I bothering welding my sills on my car why don’t I just leave it until it’s bad and has a hole in it. Thing is it’s already bad once it’s bubbling on the surface and I want to save it whilst I’ve got a chance lol
Good video shame about the music 😂
Hahaha yeah can't please them all, thank you for watching 🧡
Hi, I take it you disconnected the car battery, where did you earth point the mig
Yes I always do, I never used too 20 years ago but everything is electronic now. I think I may have even disconnected the ECU too. Always place the ground as close as possible, I connected under the sil.
Is it possible to legally do this repair with fibreglass?
No, it's structural. Especially if you were to go on and sell, knowing that you bodged it. Then imagine an accident caused (somehow) because of the work you done. Then imagine you brought it from someone who had done this.
Did you disconnect battery before welding
Yes, older cars you never really had to bother so much, newer cars are all electronic and need only small voltages and current for a signal. Definitely at least earth, and keep the ground as close as possible to the welding area. Best to be 100% sure i would be to disconnect battery and ecu. Some cars don't even like being jump started these days!!
I like the trolley jack modification, did your wheels break off or did you modify it for another reason
No I modified it in another video, for the gearbox video 😉 made it wider to help it not tip over!
Where do you get your C02 from.
Hobby weld buddy
@@ifell3 Ok thanks.
I've blown holes when trying to fill in pin holes and it such a pain in the arse when that happens. I do like repairs with minimal filler.
Yeah right, I came to notice that most times I blew through there was poor quality metal. I had to enlarge the section because I was just wasting my time.
Done good
Lot of porus weld there wind was blowing your shield gas. Flux core would have been better idea if you can't weld inside or stick weld if you can
Thank you, the metal was .9 mm in thickness, from previous experience of welding sheet steel is flux burns way to hot, same with stick. I also tried to time the weld between wind as best as I could. Thank you
@@ifell3 Nah you can flux core bodywork with a combination of torch angle and less time on the trigger. I've used it for years outside it's just more difficult to use.
@@jimmyk9523 I used to use one on a MK2 escort I had and it was a right pain in the arse. Yes you can but was way more difficult. For me anyway, if you two can weld a continuous bead you guys are better welders than myself 😉
@@ifell3 Wasn't knocking your welding just saying you can use it. No one can run a continuous weld on metal this thin, it'd blow through quick. I enjoyed the videos anyway.
@@jimmyk9523 Sorry if that sounded a little salty, wasn't meant to be. I had a gasless maypole two power setting and that also changed the wire speed, bloody pita!! Funny enough I've just used its case in a video I've just done to rehouse an old stick transformer^^
Why don't you just use a weld through primer on the back?
Yes you are correct, I can't remember my reason now. It could have been because the metal behind was not guaranteed to be clean. I think I mentioned this in one of my other comments. ATB
Does anyone know if you can replace the sill? Mine has cancer
Yes, you can buy the outer for sure on eBay. It's not actually that expensive I think it was £45ish. Just make sure you support the car properly in the middle to stop and sagging.
@@ifell3 na I don't mean the side skirt (plastic) I mean the metal
@@ifell3 what the plastic side skirt fits on to
@BasedSaxon I know what you meant, Google "c4 grand picasso sil"
how much did the repair cost ?
It's hard to say, the metal was about a tenner I think, but have loads left over, same with things like the welding gas and wire. Grinding discs and sandpaper I all ready had. To be honest it would be easier to buy a new sill for £40 and just cut out the old, treat and weld on a new. Wouldn't have to bother filling too.
@@ifell3 thanks mate, actually i'm a car supplier from Japan and i supply in Ireland .my customer had a problem with his car had soot stains underneath the sills, so i was just looking how much would cost him.
@@rehankarim6094 soot from what? Power wash it off, but the black stuff I think I linked in the comments on one of the other videos.
@@ifell3 there are black spots underneath the sills is there any way to remove it?
@@rehankarim6094 what is it tar? You can get tar removal spray
Picasso's always rust around the sills.
To be fair, I'm really put off of french cars.
id just fill the cills with engine oil. That's will stop it from ever rusting.
A little less Skip welding would do the job ,,, and after welding it's best to spray the iside (little hole) with used engine oil
why use used engine oil ??
@@tomthompson7400 it penetrates and preserves metal better than tectyl
@@shootingsportstransparency7461
used engine oil is acidic , and it floats on water actually trapping in moisture and doing more damage long term ,,,
what no need is something like ACF50 , if they ever start using used engine oil on helicopters and aircraft Ill switch , till then its a total no no , The other thing is that ACF50 wont burn , so if you have to go back for a repair the car wont catch fire .
a car full of oil is not a pleasant thing to weld . Just my thoughts , but it may give you something to have a think about on future projects.
@@tomthompson7400 Engine oil will penetrate a steel surface and is having additives with make it bind water. but if you love to pay a lot of money for a commercial product i'm ok with it. The chimney of the AFC 50 salesman needs to smoke to, I'm sure he even want's to drive a luxury European car.
@@shootingsportstransparency7461 have you tried it ,,, give it a go and see ,,, I give two years warranty on any repair I do , and its only the use of acf that lets me do that ,, i get a lot of repeat customers and no warranty , seriously give it a go and see.
That sill was not in the best condition, soon comes more to repair.
Indeed, reported that it has gone further up previously. Lessons learned, next time I'll replace the whole sill. Merry Christmas
Can you do mine
Are you self taught. ?
No, UA-cam qualified 🤣
@@ifell3 Brilliant. Proud of you.