🍎Multi-Grafted Fruit Salad Apple Tree🍏, w/ 6 Varieties, Year 4! Training and Pruning
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- 4 years after grafting, Chuck's Apple Frankentree, multi-grafted Fruit Salad tree is well trained. A few finishing touches and annual pruning, watch the rest of this series in this playlist: • Chuck's Frankenttree P...
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Your interaction with the traffic is hilarious!
I've been following the progress of this tree and it's starting to look great.
Please thank Chuck for providing the venue and the tree! It's been a great series.
Will do!
wish I could pick an apple in Feb, even the snow is froze to solid to pick up here.
Trees are pretty amazing
Come visit the east coast
Great video. I could watch pruning videos all day. I've never tried notching above buds, I'm excited to add that to my skillset.
It can work amazingly well. Not 100% and will vary by variety and species. Most of my experience is with apples and it works remarkably well.
In this part of the world we notch below and nick above.it just a discriptive thing.
@@SkillCult if it works, it extends the range of the lateral. If it doesn't, no biggie, just adjust next season and find a new bud to direct. Really excited to try it.
@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy Exactly, nothing lost if it doesn't go. It can help to disbud, removing a couple of adjacent buds, but usually not necessary. It depends on the variety. Also, that can reduce early fruiting because any of those might turn into fruiting buds. Just notching for main scaffolds is pretty awesome, but extending it to laterals, the possibilities for getting a very specific final tree form is pretty great.
Wow you're still able to pick apples from your tree in January. That's amazing to have fresh apples to eat off the tree in winter. In zone 5b the apples on the tree will be frozen solid.
Pretty cool right? I don't know what the cold limits are though. They'll take at least 20f and probably quite a bit lower, but that would still exclude large areas. It also includes a lot of areas too though
Above or below... good catch..lol
Can you show the notching process closer up? I’ve never heard of this.
I do in a tree training video, but hope to release another soon. It's not hard, just make sure you disrupt the flow of nutrients under the bark. Remove the bark up to 1/8" wide, about 1/3 of the way around the stem and scrape the wood clean to remove the cambium. Notch just above the bud (if the branch was growing vertical) to make it grow more. Another technique notches under the bud to increase fruiting and discourage growth, but I haven't use that much.
I'm thinking of of frameworking an old apple tree to my own seedlings varieties instead on having rows of seedlings on m9 (because I'm a bit short on space). Do you think that would make it difficult to assess the varieties with only a few of each apple? Also Chuck looks great for 85!
I think you'll be fine and one advantage is that with less crowded trees you might get more exemplary fruit. my seedlings are overcrowded and the fruit is not probably at it's best most of the time. One issue you might have is fruiting time. My seedligns grafted onto full sized trees seem to take a while and supposedly it takes a certain amount of growth or number of buds before they will decide they are mature enough to fruit. I've let most of mine grow pretty rampantly and they take up a lot of space. I'm not sure how necessary that is, but you might need more than just a small piece that is kept size pruned like a normal tree. I haven't experimented enough to know, but I may so I can grow a few more seedlings without planting more rows. Albert etter used foundation trees, but I'm not sure if he fruited seedlings first then used the trees to further assess or hold the more promising ones, or if it was from the start. Also don't know how much room he gave each variety. If you use old trees or foundation trees, there is also always the chance of introducing virus, though it's unlikely if it's a single variety.
Car exhaust...haahahahha. :)
Seriously dude, it's bad down there. There was a layer of dark stuff over the whole apple lol.
Inarch the damaged trunk Steve..
It's not a case of survival, but of eventual rot. There is just a lot of dead wood in there now. I would leave it, but Chuck likes the idea of using this new healthy shoot.