*DISCLAIMER: Please don't play with electrolytic capacitors unless you know exactly what you are doing!* I've used 100uF / 10V Nichicon capacitor as a replacement. If you never worked with one, do google on electrolytic capacitors BEFORE DOING anything, or else you risk explosion and electrical fire!!
@Anthony Im curious about this too. I did read though on DS website that he reckoned the ones in the JV's were probably ok to leave be. But I am happy to stand corrected...
@Anthony Ive no idea on the rating/info of the SMD's. But if DS said replace the exp-card ones, but didnt explicitly state "AND dont forget the ones in the synth.." then I'll take it he knows better then me, given that he works for Roland and I dont :D
Good video. Thanks, Don. Note that electrolytic capacitors have a + and a - lead. If you solder it on the wrong way around, it will most likely die as soon as you turn the power on, and quite possibly explode - I've seen that happen. I may have missed it, but I didn't hear that mentioned, in the video. Also, the old capacitor will come off more easily if you dab on some flux, or fresh solder, as you heat the old solder.
I deliberately omitted it because it is assumed the person who will do replacement will know which capacitor to use, how to orient it, etc. If not, then they should definitely not do any repair works to anyone. We talk about risk of electrical fire and more importantly *human lives*.
@@RobBob555 so one of the biggest risks of undertaking this simple beginner level soldering job is deliberately left out, because of assumptions. Okay then
Cutting a new soldered connection after soldering can cause invisible interior cracks in the solder, limiting the life span of your new solder job. measure, cut, then solder once, other wise you need to resolder after cutting... IPC-610 standard, but then again these aren't 16,000 mph satellites
I work with old PCBs a lot and just finally got around to doing 4 of my boards in my JV-1080. You actually don’t need to desolder the old SMD from the board. These old SMDs will literally just pull up from their pins with very little effort with a pair of tweezers. Don’t twist - just pull up on them with a tiny bit of rocking side to side. Not the black plastic base - just the SMD. You’re then left with the black plastic SMD base and two pins. The black plastic piece is so old and brittle, it will literally just crack and come away from the pins if you lift it up with tweezers. You’re then left with the two untouched tracers with very short pins. You can actually leave the pins where they are as a guide for the new capacitor leads. Then clean up with a little alcohol or thinner on a earbud thingy, flux, then do as shown in the video. Main reason I mention this method is there’s zero chance of accidentally doing anything to the tracers (or anything else) from desoldering the original SMD. The reason there looks to be a lot of effort in removing the old SMDs here is you’re also trying to desolder the pins to remove the SMD which could cause more trouble, when the main aim is just to get rid of the SMD itself. Tried it this way initially with the 99 board which I wasn’t a huge fan of, it was fine and it was exactly the same with the 04, 05 and 06 boards too. Also, another benefit of doing it this way is you get to see which capacitors we’re close to failing because you can see the condition of the original solder. My 06 dance SMD was very very close to leaking everywhere. The rest were ok. Went with 25v for the new ones.
Thanks for this. Just inspected the vintage synth board in my xp30 and it looks like I caught it in time - the corrosion was down to the pads. Managed to clean most of it off with isopropyl and thankfully there was enough pad to resolder a new cap 😅
My first "victim" this day is the DRUM & BASS Card SR-JV80-10. I replaced the capaciter with an 100uF, 16V. It runs for 8 hours....so test is done. It works very very good! :) Thank you for saving my cards for the next 30 Years.
I have 11 SR-JV expansionboards, and did this fix myself. Used the same diameter SMD caps, 100uF/16V. There's some great videos on UA-cam to show you how to do this properly, and it is actually quite easy once you get going. I used a fairly standard soldering iron with adjustable temperature. Instead of heating up the old caps (they might pop!) I took pliers and carefully twisted them off. The feet remained on the board, and those I desoldered. Cleaned the board where needed (only a few just started leaking) and soldered the news ones in place. Took me about an hour all told, and they all function absolutely fine 😀👍🎹
We live a really mad world... Don Solaris was so nice to spend his time doing this video to help the community and 2 people "dislike" it... Thanks a lot Don!
LOL! Don't worry. They wake up, and until 12 am hate themselves, after 12 am they hate the rest of the world. I don't mind their way of living as long as I'm in the safe distance. :))))))))))))))))
Great Vid...Point of note...If any of you have the House Card, it may have 3 of these capacitors rated 16v (mine has). There may be other cards with same. I'm assuming the same rule applies to these too...change them ! Obviously rated 16v of course. Edit...I have replaced most of the capacitors...BEWARE..one of them had started to leak. If you value your gear STOP ! using them.
I am surprised that there 's so little information on the internet about this capacitor leak. I also had the problem (the capacitor was leaking), but fortunately I could repair it, thanks to this video.
This capacitor issue can apply to other Roland gear as well. I just repaired an E-86 (1993?). Leaked caps had destroyed the sound card. What is interesting, is that the E-86 sound card has similar layout and some chips like in those expansion cards. There is no detailed service manual for E-86 sound module, "to be replaced as a whole", but where do you get those... So I had to look for other gear with same chip(s). Found those expansion cards and a computer audio interface. From photos online I could trace the pins that carry digital audio out and fix the board issue by jumper wiring across the broken foil (which was invisible, inside the multi layer PCB). EDIT: didn't mean to leave a cliffhanger here, I did replace the caps and clean everything as well as I could :)
Just a week ago my SR-JV - Orchestra went out - this video is just on time. These capacitors have a venerability to fail when exposed to heat. This is why I am creating a custom fan for rack modules that is very quiet. The challenge is to make so that these sound modules are all protected. I have 1 Roland JD-990 and 2 Roland JV-880s among other modules which need to be protected from heat and dust. I will post images of the solution. The fan will have large fins, to keep it quite and effective at low rpms and a filter.
i find it hard to believe that ALL of these particular SMD transistors are faulty.. surely Roland could have pinned a "problem cap" date down... anyway ive ordered some regular thru hole caps for my 5 cards.. thanks for the video Don .. love your site BTW awesome effort you have put into the community !
There's a few causes. The move to smaller SMT parts and the case where electrolyte formulas were stolen and used, but the formula was copied down wrong. Many PCs of the 2000s suffered bulging caps for this reason.
Thank's for the vid , it was very interesting and helped me out. I checked on the capacitors and learnt which side is negative and went from there . All 3 of them done and working. Cheers ;-)
Does the JV1080/2080 use these capacitors on the main circuit boards? Don't understand why there is nothing on the UK/US roland sites regarding this potentially dangerous issue? Is there any other spec we should know other than 100uf/10v when purchasing? Thanks
@@DonSolaris I have a JV 1010 arriving in the post (with Don Solaris user patches pre-installed of course!) do you know if 1010 is same as 1080 and through-hole on main circuit?
Great. And I just got a JV-2080. And planned on getting the SR-JV-80 expansion cards............I don't wanna risk wasting my money or breaking the cards.
Hello Don. Thank you for this video. I have four cards loaded in my JV-1080, and would like to do this modification in advance of any issues. While I do fairly well with a soldering gun, I am not really familiar with all the different types of electronic components. Would it be too much to ask if you can post a link to the part you used in this video? I've done some Googling with the description you provided, but the results are really vast, with different brands and voltages coming up. I'd really be curious to know exactly what you used. I only need to do four cards, but may buy five or six capacitors in case I need a backup. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for this tutorial Don. I have a JV-2080 with 3 expansion boards. I am not an expert on electronics so I'll have to have them fixed by somebody else.
wow, how have I not seen this video till now? been subscribed for a while but this only just now popped up on my feed. now I have notifications enabled 😃 anyways, hopefully none of the capacitors within the actual synths are in danger of popping like this.
Yes, so long as it's over-rated and not under rated, you're fine. You just may find that higher rated capacitors may be larger and not fit on the circuit board, and will be a little more expensive.
Just got a card in today, looks like I'll have to apply this fix as well :o Thanks for the heads up! Also a quick question: the JV-880 manual says you can get the original sounds back by "reinitializing" the JV-880. Does that mean a factory reset from the unit or do you need to load it from an external source?
Holy crap never thought the Sr jv boards had would have this trouble . Thanks for sharing the info and fix Don :-). Good choice on the through hole replacement , i would struggle with smd . Just to confirm the value is 100uf right ?
Don Solaris Ok Don thanks for the heads up , my only srjv board doesnt see much action these days to be honest. Still good to bear in mind. Yes agreed 25v is good coverage :-)
It varies. You don't know. But in this particular case Roland says to service immediately. Capacitors are generic components. They just should match the originals by capacitance and voltage rating (not less than the original). If you search the web just by the word "capacitor", you surely get shops.
Hi Don, Thank you for the alert and video. I want to change all the capacitors on all my JV cards to the through hole type - Nichicon 100uf 10v. However there seemed to be a few different series of capacitors... which do you recommend? I will proceed to place my orders after ur reply. Thanks
Don Solaris Hmm, then I guess most likely any type shld be fine... btw I did had a burnt capacitor in one card - the POP series, I removed the bad cap and let the board run in my jv2080 without any problem. Any idea what is the function of this capacitor for?
@@DonSolaris thank you Don. However you said you don't like the mini ones. Not knowing better I got one just today, a 16v. Now I understood that a normal size one can be max 10v because getting to big. How can I recognize such a one? On nishicon website there are lots. I see B1424 printed on the side, giving me some idea. Could you guide me a bit? Thanks!
It likely does, but I don't believe they're bad SMD caps, probably just standard thru-hole. It's these early SMD capacitors that are a problem; lots of old electronics are close to dying, or dead, because of them. I had to repair a Macintosh LC II recently that only used SMDs: all *twenty one* of them were leaking!
Roland issued a service bulletin in 2017 about these cards. The capacitors are there to prevent power spikes damaging the card's IC's. The cards are powered by 5v and the cap is just 6v. So very little margin. As capacitors are comparable with batteries the electrolyte inside the capacitor dries out over years of use. (these cards are all around 25 years old now...) At some point it will short and literally explode (or start leaking electrolyte). Ticking timebomb! Replace with 100uf and higher voltage.. 10v 16v 25v is okay.
@@jorickver THANK YOU very very much. I will start to replace it at all my cards..... since i heard it and researched it , i dont use them. I will "Update" all of them, so i hav my freedom for the next 30 Years,.... :)
@@jorickver I know it would be costly but IMO Roland should have set-up repair-shops with discounted service for this. Apple in the end had to drop the price for battery replacements after some 'known issue' on a large scale. This is after all a possible 'risk' of electrical damage to the device and in the worst worst case scenario electrical fault/fires. Im rather surprised this has gone untalked about in the many forum posts I read on this issue. A huge music-tech company like roland could have specialist staff do these repairs in minutes, as seen here. What, 10mins was it? Anyway thats my tuppence opinion on it so there :D :D :D
4:24 in the picture you can see Minus is printed on the board (Direcectly near by the printing "C5") - I have changed the capacitor on my two boards with no problems - works fine!
I simply looked for the first next voltage available, which is 10V. Because 16V and 25V would be too big to mount. I never trust those "mini" versions of capacitors.
Problem is... I have about 22 of these cards in different synths... my soldering skills are not that good so the repair of all the cards will cost me the same amount of a money of a synth :-((
22 cards. wow. Here in sweden the local music-tech store said it was 99€ starting fee for ANY work on synths. + labor and time. I only have 1 card but refuse to pay that extortion. I could probably take a soldering course for the money lol......2200€ would get a nice synth :D :D
Just get some old electronics and some resistors and practice. Soldering is a useful skill that's easily acquirable by most people, so long as you have a steady hand. If your eyesight's not too good, just get a magnifier so that you can see the circuit board up close.
@@juandelhoyo2718 not knowing if the original comment was serious or not, but in general, capacitors are designed to be used. These are not in the audio path, so they don't directly affect the sound. These cards are digital, meaning they function correctly or not (from distortion to no sound). The capacitors filter the supply voltage. It is very possible there's no difference if you remove a capacitor from one card, it may work well in your synth. But problems may occur if the power is already "dirty", or you are adding more cards. The capacitor essentially makes sure the card works fine in all possible configurations.
Don, why did you not insert the legs of the capacitors in the holes, then bend the leads so that the capacitor is vertical? The way you have done it is fine, however, it is more esthetically (visually) better mounted and looks like it has not been replaced.
*DISCLAIMER: Please don't play with electrolytic capacitors unless you know exactly what you are doing!* I've used 100uF / 10V Nichicon capacitor as a replacement. If you never worked with one, do google on electrolytic capacitors BEFORE DOING anything, or else you risk explosion and electrical fire!!
@Anthony Im curious about this too. I did read though on DS website that he reckoned the ones in the JV's were probably ok to leave be. But I am happy to stand corrected...
@Anthony Ive no idea on the rating/info of the SMD's. But if DS said replace the exp-card ones, but didnt explicitly state "AND dont forget the ones in the synth.." then I'll take it he knows better then me, given that he works for Roland and I dont :D
Good video. Thanks, Don.
Note that electrolytic capacitors have a + and a - lead. If you solder it on the wrong way around, it will most likely die as soon as you turn the power on, and quite possibly explode - I've seen that happen.
I may have missed it, but I didn't hear that mentioned, in the video.
Also, the old capacitor will come off more easily if you dab on some flux, or fresh solder, as you heat the old solder.
Good points you make.
I deliberately omitted it because it is assumed the person who will do replacement will know which capacitor to use, how to orient it, etc. If not, then they should definitely not do any repair works to anyone. We talk about risk of electrical fire and more importantly *human lives*.
@@bobcatt2294 not really.. its pretty obvious .. in fact i would say that if you dont know that,m you should be doing this job.
@@DonSolaris agreed 100%
@@RobBob555 so one of the biggest risks of undertaking this simple beginner level soldering job is deliberately left out, because of assumptions. Okay then
Cutting a new soldered connection after soldering can cause invisible interior cracks in the solder, limiting the life span of your new solder job. measure, cut, then solder once, other wise you need to resolder after cutting... IPC-610 standard, but then again these aren't 16,000 mph satellites
Thank you for making this. Was made aware of the issue today - Got a fully expanded JV and will do this before turning it on again!
I work with old PCBs a lot and just finally got around to doing 4 of my boards in my JV-1080. You actually don’t need to desolder the old SMD from the board. These old SMDs will literally just pull up from their pins with very little effort with a pair of tweezers. Don’t twist - just pull up on them with a tiny bit of rocking side to side. Not the black plastic base - just the SMD. You’re then left with the black plastic SMD base and two pins. The black plastic piece is so old and brittle, it will literally just crack and come away from the pins if you lift it up with tweezers. You’re then left with the two untouched tracers with very short pins. You can actually leave the pins where they are as a guide for the new capacitor leads. Then clean up with a little alcohol or thinner on a earbud thingy, flux, then do as shown in the video. Main reason I mention this method is there’s zero chance of accidentally doing anything to the tracers (or anything else) from desoldering the original SMD. The reason there looks to be a lot of effort in removing the old SMDs here is you’re also trying to desolder the pins to remove the SMD which could cause more trouble, when the main aim is just to get rid of the SMD itself. Tried it this way initially with the 99 board which I wasn’t a huge fan of, it was fine and it was exactly the same with the 04, 05 and 06 boards too. Also, another benefit of doing it this way is you get to see which capacitors we’re close to failing because you can see the condition of the original solder. My 06 dance SMD was very very close to leaking everywhere. The rest were ok. Went with 25v for the new ones.
Thanks for this. Just inspected the vintage synth board in my xp30 and it looks like I caught it in time - the corrosion was down to the pads. Managed to clean most of it off with isopropyl and thankfully there was enough pad to resolder a new cap 😅
My first "victim" this day is the DRUM & BASS Card SR-JV80-10.
I replaced the capaciter with an 100uF, 16V.
It runs for 8 hours....so test is done.
It works very very good! :)
Thank you for saving my cards for the next 30 Years.
I have 11 SR-JV expansionboards, and did this fix myself. Used the same diameter SMD caps, 100uF/16V. There's some great videos on UA-cam to show you how to do this properly, and it is actually quite easy once you get going.
I used a fairly standard soldering iron with adjustable temperature. Instead of heating up the old caps (they might pop!) I took pliers and carefully twisted them off. The feet remained on the board, and those I desoldered. Cleaned the board where needed (only a few just started leaking) and soldered the news ones in place.
Took me about an hour all told, and they all function absolutely fine 😀👍🎹
It might be worth getting the JV board from Sector101 and read all your cards to back up the ROMs. Then if they fail you can flash a new one.
What are the dimensions of the capacitor?
Any answers on this?
We live a really mad world... Don Solaris was so nice to spend his time doing this video to help the community and 2 people "dislike" it... Thanks a lot Don!
LOL! Don't worry. They wake up, and until 12 am hate themselves, after 12 am they hate the rest of the world. I don't mind their way of living as long as I'm in the safe distance. :))))))))))))))))
The dislikes are coming from the competitors who hate to see these kind of repairs ;-)
Great Vid...Point of note...If any of you have the House Card, it may have 3 of these capacitors rated 16v (mine has). There may be other cards with same. I'm assuming the same rule applies to these too...change them ! Obviously rated 16v of course.
Edit...I have replaced most of the capacitors...BEWARE..one of them had started to leak. If you value your gear STOP ! using them.
Your soundsets are much more professional than your soldering skills...
LOL I also noticed it :-)))
Hehe
Ha! Ha! Ha!
thats bullshit, his soldering is fine.. nothing wrong with it !
use flux, flux is your friend ;)
I am surprised that there 's so little information on the internet about this capacitor leak. I also had the problem (the capacitor was leaking), but fortunately I could repair it, thanks to this video.
This capacitor issue can apply to other Roland gear as well. I just repaired an E-86 (1993?). Leaked caps had destroyed the sound card. What is interesting, is that the E-86 sound card has similar layout and some chips like in those expansion cards.
There is no detailed service manual for E-86 sound module, "to be replaced as a whole", but where do you get those... So I had to look for other gear with same chip(s). Found those expansion cards and a computer audio interface.
From photos online I could trace the pins that carry digital audio out and fix the board issue by jumper wiring across the broken foil (which was invisible, inside the multi layer PCB).
EDIT: didn't mean to leave a cliffhanger here, I did replace the caps and clean everything as well as I could :)
Thank you Don! I've got five of these boards, will remove them ASAP and then fix them one at a time.
Do them all together in a batch one step at a time
Just a week ago my SR-JV - Orchestra went out - this video is just on time. These capacitors have a venerability to fail when exposed to heat. This is why I am creating a custom fan for rack modules that is very quiet. The challenge is to make so that these sound modules are all protected. I have 1 Roland JD-990 and 2 Roland JV-880s among other modules which need to be protected from heat and dust. I will post images of the solution. The fan will have large fins, to keep it quite and effective at low rpms and a filter.
Great video Don, you do really a lot for the community.
i find it hard to believe that ALL of these particular SMD transistors are faulty.. surely Roland could have pinned a "problem cap" date down... anyway ive ordered some regular thru hole caps for my 5 cards.. thanks for the video Don .. love your site BTW awesome effort you have put into the community !
There's a few causes. The move to smaller SMT parts and the case where electrolyte formulas were stolen and used, but the formula was copied down wrong. Many PCs of the 2000s suffered bulging caps for this reason.
Thanks. Just purchased my first card yesterday, so your video appearing in my feed is perfect timing. 😁
Thanx for the info. Great music as always. Sounds like JD990 & vintage card . Hope i save them.
I actually made the intro music on a JD-990 while Suit And Tie Guy did the music for the video, however i don't remember which gear he used.
Thank's for the vid , it was very interesting and helped me out. I checked on the capacitors and learnt which side is negative and went from there . All 3 of them done and working. Cheers ;-)
Does the JV1080/2080 use these capacitors on the main circuit boards?
Don't understand why there is nothing on the UK/US roland sites regarding this potentially dangerous issue?
Is there any other spec we should know other than 100uf/10v when purchasing?
Thanks
JV-1080 uses thru hole. However XP-50 does have these caps. And many have failed too! I have witnessed it myself.
Yep, JV-x080 doesn't have this problem and XP50 does, suffered a failure myself, all 20+ caps replaced, multiple leaking caps.
@@DonSolaris I have a JV 1010 arriving in the post (with Don Solaris user patches pre-installed of course!) do you know if 1010 is same as 1080 and through-hole on main circuit?
Thank you so much for this video. I was just pointed out to this video. Now I have some work to do!
Great. And I just got a JV-2080. And planned on getting the SR-JV-80 expansion cards............I don't wanna risk wasting my money or breaking the cards.
Super video , i have the vintage card so i am doing this as i don't want it blowing up! Thanks again.
Thoroughly enjoyed the presentation, thank you very much! Very nice close up photography. I like your channel, subscribing now!
Do the SRX cards suffer from the same thing? Do I have ti replace anything on them? Thanks!
Hello Don. Thank you for this video. I have four cards loaded in my JV-1080, and would like to do this modification in advance of any issues. While I do fairly well with a soldering gun, I am not really familiar with all the different types of electronic components. Would it be too much to ask if you can post a link to the part you used in this video? I've done some Googling with the description you provided, but the results are really vast, with different brands and voltages coming up. I'd really be curious to know exactly what you used. I only need to do four cards, but may buy five or six capacitors in case I need a backup. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for this tutorial Don. I have a JV-2080 with 3 expansion boards. I am not an expert on electronics so I'll have to have them fixed by somebody else.
Known problem on Amiga 600/1200. Thanks for sharing. Cheers! S
wow, how have I not seen this video till now? been subscribed for a while but this only just now popped up on my feed. now I have notifications enabled 😃 anyways, hopefully none of the capacitors within the actual synths are in danger of popping like this.
Hey Don! It's Awake77 from the old HC synth forum. Nice to see you on UA-cam sir, and thank you for the heads up I'm ordering the caps now :)
OMG 10 yrs ago!
Yes sir! Still going strong. So many synths, so little time ;)
Does anyone have a link where to purchase replacement capacitors?
Don Solaris : Worlds' only JD Guru ! ;-)
Well i bought JD-800 as well. To somehow... "round things up". I like the board. Wish it had more waveforms though.
@@DonSolaris It does at least help with programming sounds on the JD-990, if nothing else! :) Thanks a lot for this video, btw! Highly appreciated!
Good one!!
Great.
Done today on my 8 cards.
hey thanks for the credit. it was also great to hear your voice finally.
Hey there gangster!
Dude.. soo SICK!
Wats the song called? where can i find it?
AFAIK Eric never released this song but if you PM him on Facebook perhaps he might have a copy.
Don thanks for the video, using 100uF 25v instead of 100Uf 10v would be ok?
Yes, so long as it's over-rated and not under rated, you're fine. You just may find that higher rated capacitors may be larger and not fit on the circuit board, and will be a little more expensive.
Just got a card in today, looks like I'll have to apply this fix as well :o Thanks for the heads up! Also a quick question: the JV-880 manual says you can get the original sounds back by "reinitializing" the JV-880. Does that mean a factory reset from the unit or do you need to load it from an external source?
Thanks Don, I will replace it on my two Boards 👍
SR JV 80 FX csrd has three electrolytic caps. Two 47uf 16v and one 100uf 16v.
Should all three electrolytic caps be changed out?
This is the case with each one of the expansion boards?
Holy crap never thought the Sr jv boards had would have this trouble . Thanks for sharing the info and fix Don :-). Good choice on the through hole replacement , i would struggle with smd . Just to confirm the value is 100uf right ?
Indeed 100uF.
Don Solaris Ok Don thanks for the heads up , my only srjv board doesnt see much action these days to be honest. Still good to bear in mind. Yes agreed 25v is good coverage :-)
So is it 10V or 25V I'll have to use ? Will be a lot of work, i have the whole collection of SR-JV80 and some double in defferent synths :-((
As written in the video description - For replacement i've used 100uF, 10V Nichicon capacitor.
Just subscribed, Don! 👍🏻
it looks like the cap is just doing some power smoothing between ground and power fill areas, can these cards run fine with the capcitor left out?
Hello friend,
How do I know when they go bad. And where do I buy new? Do you have a link?
It varies. You don't know. But in this particular case Roland says to service immediately.
Capacitors are generic components. They just should match the originals by capacitance and voltage rating (not less than the original).
If you search the web just by the word "capacitor", you surely get shops.
Hi Don,
Thank you for the alert and video.
I want to change all the capacitors on all my JV cards to the through hole type - Nichicon 100uf 10v. However there seemed to be a few different series of capacitors... which do you recommend? I will proceed to place my orders after ur reply.
Thanks
I went to the store and asked for 100 uF 10V capacitors. That's all i know.
Don Solaris Hmm, then I guess most likely any type shld be fine...
btw I did had a burnt capacitor in one card - the POP series, I removed the bad cap and let the board run in my jv2080 without any problem.
Any idea what is the function of this capacitor for?
@@DonSolaris thank you Don. However you said you don't like the mini ones. Not knowing better I got one just today, a 16v. Now I understood that a normal size one can be max 10v because getting to big. How can I recognize such a one? On nishicon website there are lots. I see B1424 printed on the side, giving me some idea. Could you guide me a bit? Thanks!
@@keithchua5840 I have the same question. I got blown one last weekend but still works?
What in the actual fuck my Dudes...
Doesn't the JV has capacitors in it as well :s ?
It likely does, but I don't believe they're bad SMD caps, probably just standard thru-hole. It's these early SMD capacitors that are a problem; lots of old electronics are close to dying, or dead, because of them. I had to repair a Macintosh LC II recently that only used SMDs: all *twenty one* of them were leaking!
Yes, but there are numerous types of capacitor made in different ways and constructed from different materials.
01:20 you are like my dentist
Ahahahahahaha!!!!!!! Man, you just made my day! Than you sir!!!
dude.. this song is lit!! is this an orignal? made on a jv-xx80?
suit and tie guy!! :)
Intro is mine JD-990, while main song was made by Suit&TieGuy on a Korg, but don't remember was it Kronos.
I never ever heard about this problem. I have all 19 Cards and they are all working perfect. Maybe in my country is an much stable power network?
Roland issued a service bulletin in 2017 about these cards. The capacitors are there to prevent power spikes damaging the card's IC's. The cards are powered by 5v and the cap is just 6v. So very little margin. As capacitors are comparable with batteries the electrolyte inside the capacitor dries out over years of use. (these cards are all around 25 years old now...) At some point it will short and literally explode (or start leaking electrolyte). Ticking timebomb! Replace with 100uf and higher voltage.. 10v 16v 25v is okay.
@@jorickver THANK YOU very very much. I will start to replace it at all my cards..... since i heard it and researched it , i dont use them. I will "Update" all of them, so i hav my freedom for the next 30 Years,.... :)
@@jorickver I know it would be costly but IMO Roland should have set-up repair-shops with discounted service for this. Apple in the end had to drop the price for battery replacements after some 'known issue' on a large scale. This is after all a possible 'risk' of electrical damage to the device and in the worst worst case scenario electrical fault/fires. Im rather surprised this has gone untalked about in the many forum posts I read on this issue. A huge music-tech company like roland could have specialist staff do these repairs in minutes, as seen here. What, 10mins was it? Anyway thats my tuppence opinion on it so there :D :D :D
how do you know which tab is the positive and which is negative on the board? The caps are polarised. Thanks
4:24 in the picture you can see Minus is printed on the board (Direcectly near by the printing "C5") - I have changed the capacitor on my two boards with no problems - works fine!
@@matsewunderlich I have a vocal expansion, no indication on the board or the capacitor to indicate which is negative or positive. Mine is a C3.
@@matsewunderlich I found it, it is the half painted black on the top of the capacitor
What is the correct way to place the capacitor Is there a negative and positive ?
The pad which connects to the ground plane is the negative, the electrolytic will have a stripe next to the negative lead with " - - - " on it.
Good job, can you tell me the type of glue to use?
Yes, I would also like to know that. BTW great video!
A standard hot melt type will do.
Thanks Don... 5:15 LOL
How did you find out that this cap can replace the 100 uf /6v?
I simply looked for the first next voltage available, which is 10V. Because 16V and 25V would be too big to mount. I never trust those "mini" versions of capacitors.
@@DonSolaris uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/7151631/?fbclid=IwAR38NICy2YK0vFf2fRRp96wA_W2J-pp_9OZ-1cjFXG6BjM0Jb_U6G8u2uQU
Can someone tell me the purpose of this capacitor : current filtering ?
They tend to act as a bit of a local buffer to reduce rippling.
Problem is... I have about 22 of these cards in different synths... my soldering skills are not that good so the repair of all the cards will cost me the same amount of a money of a synth :-((
22 cards. wow. Here in sweden the local music-tech store said it was 99€ starting fee for ANY work on synths. + labor and time. I only have 1 card but refuse to pay that extortion. I could probably take a soldering course for the money lol......2200€ would get a nice synth :D :D
Just get some old electronics and some resistors and practice. Soldering is a useful skill that's easily acquirable by most people, so long as you have a steady hand. If your eyesight's not too good, just get a magnifier so that you can see the circuit board up close.
Just remove the capacitor, it will sound even better without capacitor.
¿Are you sure?
@@juandelhoyo2718 not knowing if the original comment was serious or not, but in general, capacitors are designed to be used. These are not in the audio path, so they don't directly affect the sound. These cards are digital, meaning they function correctly or not (from distortion to no sound).
The capacitors filter the supply voltage. It is very possible there's no difference if you remove a capacitor from one card, it may work well in your synth. But problems may occur if the power is already "dirty", or you are adding more cards.
The capacitor essentially makes sure the card works fine in all possible configurations.
Crappy 90s SMT capacitors again argh. Macs, Amiga 1200s all plagued by them.
Don, why did you not insert the legs of the capacitors in the holes, then bend the leads so that the capacitor is vertical? The way you have done it is fine, however, it is more esthetically (visually) better mounted and looks like it has not been replaced.
What holes?
The leads holes on the board where the capacitors were pulled.
Care to show where these lead holes appear in the video?
@@bobcatt2294 The originals are surface mount...no holes in board