You can get them both out without removing anything else by lifting up the control arm with an additional jack to the regular driving height. That way you have enough space (at full left/right turn - take out key for steering lock) to get the axel out. Try various positions and angels of the axle but it is definitly doable, even with the S-Line suspension. Just finished this job yesterday.
This is true! Thanks for sharing this info: very helpful. If anything, on the drivers side (RHD) = passenger side in LHD, jacking the strut up to a little above ride height helps. I found I had to persuade the outer CV joint across with a pry bar, once I'd gotten the splined shaft out (steering set to full left lock). I also removed the heat shield on the side of the gearbox as mentioned elsewhere in the comments. Getting the new drive shaft in took just a little patience with getting the end of the splined shaft flat up against the back of the hub, then using a drift poked through the axle bolt aperture and into the hollow core of the splined shaft to line it up better. Actually went in quite quickly and easily.
I am about to attempt this today . These videos and comments are a wealth of knowledge for those of us that want to fix our own things . Thank you to everyone involved
If you are doing this on a car you actually care about and plan to keep long term I strongly suggest getting upgraded axles from Raxles. Little expensive but they make great products for VW Audi.
Turning the steering wheel to full lock, taking the keys out of the ignition so the steering lock engages and then jacking the upright/knuckle up to take the sag out of it often allows you enough room to remove the axle without taking any arms off. Definitely works on b5.5 Passat’s and probably related models.
Works on a b7 too. Left side just requires turning the wheel to full lock. Right requires full lock plus jacking the wheel up high enough to get the axle at a downward slant to clear the differential.
Great video! Really wish I had a lift and air power too, haha. I just did this on my B6A4 Avant. For the passenger side, I had to turn the wheel full lock to the left and then I opted to remove the plate/shield part just above the axle that is largely what causes there to not be enough play to remove it as easy as the driver's side. It's held on by three 6mm bolts. I removed the two on the side and left the middle one loose so it could move freely but stay connected.
For anyone doing a B8.5, I was able to do the pass side without undoing any control arms or jacking up the suspension. Turn the steering wheel fully left, then angle the outter joint as much as much as possible to where the axle forms a check mark or V where the point aims towards the rear.
I just had to remove the axle from the hub on my '13 Jetta SE 2.5 in order to facilitate a strut change. I worked for 30 or 40 minutes to free the axle bolt (I actually expected longer), but to my delight the axle slid right out like butter. The inside cavity was immaculate, no signs of wear or rust - and I'm in Ohio!
Nice vid! I'm replacing some axles due to grease loss, covered under warranty.. DONT GO CHEAP ON YOUR AXLES! doing it 11 mos later SUX. My suggestion is to expand on what you do to build your business when you are doing this project. There are always things to do "while in there" surely worthy mention!
Man you are the best. I did my front axle replacement on a4 b9 ani it is so simple with your tip how to remove axle only by moving steering wheel. Respect bro 😁
When you remove the axle bolt from the hub (2:50 ish) is it normal for grease to pour out? It happened on my MK7 when I lowered it. I just packed some CV grease in with a syringe and never thought about it again
Pinch bolts suck they love to freeze. Ive snapped the head off one before. So now i just remove the lower ball joint and have plenty of room to work. Ive done it a handful of times and ive never needed an alignment on anybodys car.
Thank you soooo much for this video!! Did them at the same time as coilovers. Super easy removal if you break them loose, take the stock suspension out, put new axle into place, and torque axle down after the new suspension is in
Could the axle explain the noise I hear after applying brakes right after I pull out of my parking spot, after not driving for hours? I hear the same clink noise when I reverse into a parking spot. After driving a while, I hear no noise. It’s only whenever I initially pull out of a driveway/parking spot or reverse into a parking spot. Had brakes checked and even struts replaced. And still hearing the clink. Any insight would be appreciated!
Thank you for a great video. Also the comments helped a lot. This is not a easy job and I think my brother is ready to blow this audi into flames. Love my Audi but man what a pain to fix
Thanks for this, in my case the releasing of the torx bolts on the driveshaft end near the gearbox resulted in the casing still staying on the gearbox and I had to pull the knuckle out of the casing, Is there an reason for the casing/part where the knuckle sits in to to remain in place even after all thge torx bits have been removed?
Hey paul, can you describe the issue abit more with vibration , like at what speed and how to diagnose it, I have a shaky car when going above 80 but fine below 60 and done allignment which didnt fix the issue. Thank you!
Great video chief. I'm doing front left on a 2013 sportwagen tdi. Looks very similar. I can get the drive end flange bolts in no problem. And the wheel end spline is easy too. But I'm having a very hard time torquing the drive end flange bolts to spec because the transmission and the transmission end of the axle are turning even when holding the wheel side of the axle in place with a screwdriver in the rotor. Any ideas? It's no problem getting them finger tight. The manual specifies star pattern tightening to 10 Nm and then repeat to 70 Nm for the M10 bolts. Even the 10 Nm is doable with no problem but trying to get them any tighter just spins and wraps up the boots.
I will be pulling this out of the car at the junkyard this week. Am I able to reach all four triple square bolts on the CV axle without being able to rotate the wheel? I doubt I will be lucky enough to have the vehicle in the neutral position, allowing me to turn the wheel. My bet is that it’s an automatic and then it’s in park. Thanks in advance!
Whats the part, the inner part of the axle, that connects to make it spin. Is it the output shaft? My axle bolts came loose after I let someone else install the passenger cv axle. Please help.
for the passenger side i did it first and what bothered me was the heat shield but my axle came out easy, i just use the small spaces and moved the boot around to get it out
Can extract that same lower control arm bolt if I my using a 3 Ton Jack plus two 3 ton steel jack stands? I’m asking because I know your using a jack lift hence working in the air. Respectfully lastly my Audi A4 Quattro 2.0 08. Has been lowered meaning the suspension is not STOCK!
Hi Paul, 2008 Jetta 2.5L manual trans here.. changing the output seals on the shaft from my trans axle flanges, so I have to remove the axle. I have short triple squares, and it seems as if the m10 doesn’t fit with my cv boot in the way. I have looked up longer triple square sockets, and see 4” sets that may work. Does shopdap have the info on that, as far as what specific triple square I would need? If you want, I can email in, I just always buy my specialty tools from you guys. Please let me know if you know if it’s for sure m10 for all VW Audi, and what part link I need from you. Local NC, so shipping isn’t a big deal, I just want my seals done! Have all the parts but just couldn’t get at it with short triple squares. Thanks!
what do I do if I cant get the wheel to turn so I can take the bolts out eaiser of the axle. I got the top 2 out but for some reason it wont let spin the rotar to get the the bottom bolts like in your video. how do I turn the rotars
So, I just did both axles. The I got the inexpensive ones from ecs tuning. The drivers side matched up fine. The passenger side one wasn’t as thick as the oem shaft. And it was slightly shorter. Less than a half inch. Is that bad? Could that be the clunking I’m hearing over bumps? Bushings and ball joints are all good. Shocks and springs are good as well. 2013 Audi A3 8p
The 08 A3 wagon is 12 point 15/16".it had 80 lbs on it .drop your other wheel to ground .real world floor jack style.take your pipe from the floor jack put it on your breaker bar....get a 14 -16 m triple square to loosen lower strut mount bolt. That's how mine is set up up
My axle doesn't have bolts. The inner driver side cv housing is stuck. The passenger side was really hard to get out and was really really sticky, no transmission fluid came out as the repair manual stated, idk what that means if anything at all. But what was supposed to work, opposite side prying, has had no effect. Any thoughts, please help me out I can't find anything about my type of axle.
Because you have an auto transmission. Two ways to do it: 1) use an air hammer ; 2) buy the special tool to take the inner joint out of the trans. The first approach is not a DIY. The second one is expensive. Good luck.
Search VW Forums for construction of electrical duplex box (cut-out) with 2 - 3' metal flat stock. Wood block on end to flat stock to use as a slide hammer. Believe this design came from Toyota.
Hi All so I'm replacing the axles in my Q7 and had a few challenges with getting the inner bolts loosened they are triple square 12 and as my shaft had snapped at the outer spline I had to utilise transmission to hold in place start engine put in neutral spin shaft then in park for each bolt..my question is shaft removal as I have factory air suspension and it appears I can't just drop the control arm I will try jacking up as suggested shortly... I have an 2006 AU delivered 3.0tdi and I'm wondering if you have any tips to remove
So the shop i had replace the axel put an automatic axel in, instead of a manual axel. It is very noisy. What damage am I looking at besides the axel? Damage to the hub?
No one ever posts videos on how hard it is to get the other type of cv axles out, where they don't bolt to the transmission; they pop in/out. I had to use a slide hammer and vise grips to get them out.
Exactly. This DIY is for manual transmissions. For auto trans is a pain in the butt because you need a special tool to get the inner joint out. I saw a guy using an air hammer to get this thing out. Definitely not a DIY.
At 5:27 there are some lines on the passenger side. What lines are those? In frustration, I took the lines out and now I cannot put them back in. Does anyone know how to reinstall those lines on the passenger side wheel well or what they are called?
@@Daniel-jk9ge I did change it. What I did was loosen the suspension in order to get the CV axle out. To do that I needed to use the car jack in order to hold the suspension in a relative good position so it doesn't fall. Of course using jack stands frees up the car jack. Given that it was difficult to pull the CV axle out, That was the only way I could do it. Leave the lines alone since they are the transmission fluid cooler lines and since I could not reinstall them myself, I had to get the car towed to a transmission place so they could reinstall them and refill the transmission fluid that drained out.
@@MegaMetinMetin You really should get a torque wrench, but you can do it without one. I use a meter long breaker bar for the final 180 degrees, and that extra half turn is usually as tight as I can get it. Several of my colleagues never bother with the torques, and just give it a few ugga duggas with the impact driver. You'll probably save money in the long run by buying a torque wrench. Also, buy a brass chisel in case the cv joint is seized in the hub. One of my most used tools, after the pocket screw driver.
What is the manufacturer of this aftermarket driveshaft? Anyone know which manufacturer Audi generally use for CV driveshafts of other models like the Q5?
I got stuck in the ditch once with my mk7 GTI. I was eventually pulled out but the mud in the wheels caused a lot of vibration. I cleaned all the mud off the wheels but it’s still vibrating! Any advice? Could it be bad axles?
Love the video but would love for u to point out certain things lile the nylon nuts used on some of the suspension parts are one time use just like the stretch bolts an also u have to replace the axle nut at the same time
i was under the impression that anytime you take out one of these bolts that require 90 or 180 degrees you need to replace the bolt because they are stretching to tighten.
Does anyone know with a b8.5 A4 will I need to remove the knuckle to replace the drivers side axle I’m assuming it’s the same as the b8 and the passenger side requires it only
Penetrating oil on axle spline. Put outer axle bolt in about 1 turn from tight. Flat aluminum stock on the long bolt head. 2 lb. then escalate to 4 lb. sledge if needed. Monitor bolt tightness & loosen as hub separates from carrier. Just did 1 today,,,
If you can, always get OEM axels, don't buy the cheap $30 ones. Unless you're planning on dumping the car on someone else, but if that's what's going on then you have bigger problems and should probably rethink your life
We had the ball bearing cage brake / shatter after 3 mo. on a China cheap outer CV on a Caddy. Amazing as that's an under 100 hp drivetrain. Don't buy cheapo replacement axles.
Man, I wish the A4-chassis VWs had sealed bearings and axle bolts instead of axle nuts that require Incredible Hulk levels of torque in a special sequence, and were removable without undoing the ball joints.
@@timoneil1193 well, if you want to disassemble everything in the engine bay to get to the heat shields, be my guest. Of course you do it via the wheel wells.
oh boy i really hope this method works on a mk2 tt front passenger side... i really don't want to disassemble the whole thing to replace a knocky drive shaft...
can i just audi s4 b5 axles in the audio a4 b7 👀 i want 1000hp monster... i dont want to break axles and driveshaft shop sell 1000hp axles for the s4 b5
You can get them both out without removing anything else by lifting up the control arm with an additional jack to the regular driving height. That way you have enough space (at full left/right turn - take out key for steering lock) to get the axel out. Try various positions and angels of the axle but it is definitly doable, even with the S-Line suspension. Just finished this job yesterday.
This is true! Thanks for sharing this info: very helpful.
If anything, on the drivers side (RHD) = passenger side in LHD, jacking the strut up to a little above ride height helps. I found I had to persuade the outer CV joint across with a pry bar, once I'd gotten the splined shaft out (steering set to full left lock). I also removed the heat shield on the side of the gearbox as mentioned elsewhere in the comments.
Getting the new drive shaft in took just a little patience with getting the end of the splined shaft flat up against the back of the hub, then using a drift poked through the axle bolt aperture and into the hollow core of the splined shaft to line it up better. Actually went in quite quickly and easily.
Best tip
Thanks for that guys 👍.
Quick question, my rotor is moving significantly while trying to break the axel nut, is that ok?
I am about to attempt this today . These videos and comments are a wealth of knowledge for those of us that want to fix our own things . Thank you to everyone involved
As always, best Audi repair videos I've ever seen.
You couldn't have posted this at a better time. Did the front axle on my B8 S4 this morning and this was super helpful!
If you are doing this on a car you actually care about and plan to keep long term I strongly suggest getting upgraded axles from Raxles. Little expensive but they make great products for VW Audi.
Raxles?
Turning the steering wheel to full lock, taking the keys out of the ignition so the steering lock engages and then jacking the upright/knuckle up to take the sag out of it often allows you enough room to remove the axle without taking any arms off.
Definitely works on b5.5 Passat’s and probably related models.
On my b6 3.0 the drivers side axle could be removed and replaced without removing anything but the tire. Passenger side unfortunately can't.
I did the same when I changed my schock absorbers.
What about on a b8.5?
Works on a b7 too. Left side just requires turning the wheel to full lock. Right requires full lock plus jacking the wheel up high enough to get the axle at a downward slant to clear the differential.
I love your B7 videos, I don’t have a B7, I just really like your attitude in these vids. Keep it up 👍
Great video! Really wish I had a lift and air power too, haha. I just did this on my B6A4 Avant. For the passenger side, I had to turn the wheel full lock to the left and then I opted to remove the plate/shield part just above the axle that is largely what causes there to not be enough play to remove it as easy as the driver's side. It's held on by three 6mm bolts. I removed the two on the side and left the middle one loose so it could move freely but stay connected.
For anyone doing a B8.5, I was able to do the pass side without undoing any control arms or jacking up the suspension. Turn the steering wheel fully left, then angle the outter joint as much as much as possible to where the axle forms a check mark or V where the point aims towards the rear.
What about the driver side chief
@@Al-ky7xjdrivers side has plenty of clearance because it doesn’t have a heat shield
I bought the aftermarket axel passenger side and I removed the cheap grease and repacked it with Mobil 1 grease. Makes a big difference.
I just had to remove the axle from the hub on my '13 Jetta SE 2.5 in order to facilitate a strut change. I worked for 30 or 40 minutes to free the axle bolt (I actually expected longer), but to my delight the axle slid right out like butter. The inside cavity was immaculate, no signs of wear or rust - and I'm in Ohio!
Nice vid! I'm replacing some axles due to grease loss, covered under warranty.. DONT GO CHEAP ON YOUR AXLES! doing it 11 mos later SUX.
My suggestion is to expand on what you do to build your business when you are doing this project. There are always things to do "while in there" surely worthy mention!
Good job man continue
Would you recommend using anti seize in the bolts?
That screwdriver in the rotor trick… how did I never figure that out!
Do you have a video on doing the rear is it the same?
Good video.
Helps when you have a lowered C5 RS6 that’s tearing boots twice a year.
Can we just guestimate the torque with a breaker bar
Try it tell me what happens 😂😂
Also, are the ribbed and non ribbed bolt interchangeable.
Man you are the best. I did my front axle replacement on a4 b9 ani it is so simple with your tip how to remove axle only by moving steering wheel. Respect bro 😁
When you remove the axle bolt from the hub (2:50 ish) is it normal for grease to pour out? It happened on my MK7 when I lowered it. I just packed some CV grease in with a syringe and never thought about it again
Yeah pretty normal, especially for a failed outer cv. Lots of people also grease the axle bolt before installing.
Uploaded 32 Seconds ago👍🙃 thanks for the very very informative videos and the entertainment 😂
Thank you. What is the front axle bolt torque specs on a 2018 passat with a 2.0l ?
Pinch bolts suck they love to freeze. Ive snapped the head off one before. So now i just remove the lower ball joint and have plenty of room to work. Ive done it a handful of times and ive never needed an alignment on anybodys car.
Thank you soooo much for this video!! Did them at the same time as coilovers. Super easy removal if you break them loose, take the stock suspension out, put new axle into place, and torque axle down after the new suspension is in
Could the axle explain the noise I hear after applying brakes right after I pull out of my parking spot, after not driving for hours? I hear the same clink noise when I reverse into a parking spot. After driving a while, I hear no noise. It’s only whenever I initially pull out of a driveway/parking spot or reverse into a parking spot. Had brakes checked and even struts replaced. And still hearing the clink. Any insight would be appreciated!
Thank you for a great video. Also the comments helped a lot. This is not a easy job and I think my brother is ready to blow this audi into flames. Love my Audi but man what a pain to fix
Thanks for this, in my case the releasing of the torx bolts on the driveshaft end near the gearbox resulted in the casing still staying on the gearbox and I had to pull the knuckle out of the casing, Is there an reason for the casing/part where the knuckle sits in to to remain in place even after all thge torx bits have been removed?
Hey paul, can you describe the issue abit more with vibration , like at what speed and how to diagnose it, I have a shaky car when going above 80 but fine below 60 and done allignment which didnt fix the issue. Thank you!
Great video chief. I'm doing front left on a 2013 sportwagen tdi. Looks very similar. I can get the drive end flange bolts in no problem. And the wheel end spline is easy too. But I'm having a very hard time torquing the drive end flange bolts to spec because the transmission and the transmission end of the axle are turning even when holding the wheel side of the axle in place with a screwdriver in the rotor. Any ideas? It's no problem getting them finger tight. The manual specifies star pattern tightening to 10 Nm and then repeat to 70 Nm for the M10 bolts. Even the 10 Nm is doable with no problem but trying to get them any tighter just spins and wraps up the boots.
These CVT Audis are so good
LOOOOOOL
I will be pulling this out of the car at the junkyard this week. Am I able to reach all four triple square bolts on the CV axle without being able to rotate the wheel? I doubt I will be lucky enough to have the vehicle in the neutral position, allowing me to turn the wheel. My bet is that it’s an automatic and then it’s in park.
Thanks in advance!
Whats the part, the inner part of the axle, that connects to make it spin. Is it the output shaft? My axle bolts came loose after I let someone else install the passenger cv axle. Please help.
for the passenger side i did it first and what bothered me was the heat shield but my axle came out easy, i just use the small spaces and moved the boot around to get it out
Is the axle nut TTY on these?
Great video, doing axle job on my Passat
Can extract that same lower control arm bolt if I my using a 3 Ton Jack plus two 3 ton steel jack stands? I’m asking because I know your using a jack lift hence working in the air. Respectfully lastly my Audi A4 Quattro 2.0 08. Has been lowered meaning the suspension is not STOCK!
Should they be replaced in pairs ?
Hi Paul, 2008 Jetta 2.5L manual trans here.. changing the output seals on the shaft from my trans axle flanges, so I have to remove the axle. I have short triple squares, and it seems as if the m10 doesn’t fit with my cv boot in the way. I have looked up longer triple square sockets, and see 4” sets that may work. Does shopdap have the info on that, as far as what specific triple square I would need? If you want, I can email in, I just always buy my specialty tools from you guys. Please let me know if you know if it’s for sure m10 for all VW Audi, and what part link I need from you. Local NC, so shipping isn’t a big deal, I just want my seals done! Have all the parts but just couldn’t get at it with short triple squares. Thanks!
what do I do if I cant get the wheel to turn so I can take the bolts out eaiser of the axle. I got the top 2 out but for some reason it wont let spin the rotar to get the the bottom bolts like in your video. how do I turn the rotars
So, I just did both axles. The I got the inexpensive ones from ecs tuning.
The drivers side matched up fine. The passenger side one wasn’t as thick as the oem shaft. And it was slightly shorter. Less than a half inch. Is that bad? Could that be the clunking I’m hearing over bumps?
Bushings and ball joints are all good.
Shocks and springs are good as well. 2013 Audi A3 8p
The 08 A3 wagon is 12 point 15/16".it had 80 lbs on it .drop your other wheel to ground .real world floor jack style.take your pipe from the floor jack put it on your breaker bar....get a 14 -16 m triple square to loosen lower strut mount bolt. That's how mine is set up up
Do you need thread lock for all bolts ?
Thank you for sharing this information.
What light is that you are using? The one with a magnet on the brake rotor.
My axle doesn't have bolts. The inner driver side cv housing is stuck. The passenger side was really hard to get out and was really really sticky, no transmission fluid came out as the repair manual stated, idk what that means if anything at all. But what was supposed to work, opposite side prying, has had no effect. Any thoughts, please help me out I can't find anything about my type of axle.
Because you have an auto transmission. Two ways to do it: 1) use an air hammer ; 2) buy the special tool to take the inner joint out of the trans. The first approach is not a DIY. The second one is expensive. Good luck.
Search VW Forums for construction of electrical duplex box (cut-out) with 2 - 3' metal flat stock. Wood block on end to flat stock to use as a slide hammer. Believe this design came from Toyota.
Hey 👋. My rotor is moving significantly when trying to break loose the axel nut. Is that ok?
Excellent video btw. Thanks👍
Hi All so I'm replacing the axles in my Q7 and had a few challenges with getting the inner bolts loosened they are triple square 12 and as my shaft had snapped at the outer spline I had to utilise transmission to hold in place start engine put in neutral spin shaft then in park for each bolt..my question is shaft removal as I have factory air suspension and it appears I can't just drop the control arm I will try jacking up as suggested shortly... I have an 2006 AU delivered 3.0tdi and I'm wondering if you have any tips to remove
twist the tip as hes pulling out?
So the shop i had replace the axel put an automatic axel in, instead of a manual axel. It is very noisy. What damage am I looking at besides the axel? Damage to the hub?
What size is that after market axle nut?
You make the best videos. Thanks you again. :-)
Twist the tip
Hopefully not the same way the "OTHER" video did it lol
Okay, Okay.. just kidding.. I am always here to Watch your videos Deutsche Auto Parts
Great job, kind off dificult , great video, greetings from México
Hi,
Can you please tell me if FWD and Quattro cv axle assembly are compatible between?
Thanks!
Great help ty
No one ever posts videos on how hard it is to get the other type of cv axles out, where they don't bolt to the transmission; they pop in/out. I had to use a slide hammer and vise grips to get them out.
Exactly. This DIY is for manual transmissions. For auto trans is a pain in the butt because you need a special tool to get the inner joint out. I saw a guy using an air hammer to get this thing out. Definitely not a DIY.
At 5:27 there are some lines on the passenger side. What lines are those? In frustration, I took the lines out and now I cannot put them back in. Does anyone know how to reinstall those lines on the passenger side wheel well or what they are called?
Did you ever figure it out ? I’m thinking about taking them off too I’m struggling taking the axel out there ain’t much space lol
@@Daniel-jk9ge I did change it. What I did was loosen the suspension in order to get the CV axle out. To do that I needed to use the car jack in order to hold the suspension in a relative good position so it doesn't fall. Of course using jack stands frees up the car jack. Given that it was difficult to pull the CV axle out, That was the only way I could do it. Leave the lines alone since they are the transmission fluid cooler lines and since I could not reinstall them myself, I had to get the car towed to a transmission place so they could reinstall them and refill the transmission fluid that drained out.
I love you guys lol. I might break the car so I can have y'all fix it
I've got an 8P A3. You guys don't seem to carry Axles for that model. Which other aftermarket axle can you recommend?
How to on rear cv axle pls
Leaking cv joint , replace boot or cv joint?
If it makes noise, replace joint. If it just leaks, replace boot.
panzerveps its a fresh leak, can i diy the work i dont have a torque wrench
LEXUS-RX300 buy one from harbor freight then return it 😂
@@MegaMetinMetin You really should get a torque wrench, but you can do it without one.
I use a meter long breaker bar for the final 180 degrees, and that extra half turn is usually as tight as I can get it.
Several of my colleagues never bother with the torques, and just give it a few ugga duggas with the impact driver.
You'll probably save money in the long run by buying a torque wrench.
Also, buy a brass chisel in case the cv joint is seized in the hub. One of my most used tools, after the pocket screw driver.
Any tips on replacing one for a B8.5 S4?
I own a 2016 A3, will this work on my car too?
Any tips for when the driveshaft is stuck onto the gearbox? Just use a hammer?
How much is the labor for replacing the axles?
What is the manufacturer of this aftermarket driveshaft? Anyone know which manufacturer Audi generally use for CV driveshafts of other models like the Q5?
I got stuck in the ditch once with my mk7 GTI. I was eventually pulled out but the mud in the wheels caused a lot of vibration. I cleaned all the mud off the wheels but it’s still vibrating! Any advice? Could it be bad axles?
Yup
@@usa5046 had the same issue?
Love the video but would love for u to point out certain things lile the nylon nuts used on some of the suspension parts are one time use just like the stretch bolts an also u have to replace the axle nut at the same time
Audi doesn’t note this axle bolt as 1 time use.
@@Deutscheautoparts the nut not the bolt
i was under the impression that anytime you take out one of these bolts that require 90 or 180 degrees you need to replace the bolt because they are stretching to tighten.
Yes, all such specified bolts should be assumed to be one time use, Toque-To-Yeild.
Does anyone know with a b8.5 A4 will I need to remove the knuckle to replace the drivers side axle I’m assuming it’s the same as the b8 and the passenger side requires it only
Why are there no videos on rear axles
anyone got a good tip on how to beat the axle out of the hub safely with intent to reuse?
I use a length of wooden broomhandle-diameter dowel. Just taps out with a rubber mallet.
@@Grantidge69 I started just using handle of a wood hammer and then hit that with a deadblow 👍
Penetrating oil on axle spline. Put outer axle bolt in about 1 turn from tight. Flat aluminum stock on the long bolt head. 2 lb. then escalate to 4 lb. sledge if needed. Monitor bolt tightness & loosen as hub separates from carrier. Just did 1 today,,,
Do you need the car in netrual to do this ?
Duh...
@@porceder sorry to ask Mr.know it all
Where can I find the torque specs? I'll this work in my Bentley
If you can, always get OEM axels, don't buy the cheap $30 ones. Unless you're planning on dumping the car on someone else, but if that's what's going on then you have bigger problems and should probably rethink your life
Raxles axels great place audi buys from them. Alot of after market heap axles have hollow shafts and oems are solid.
We had the ball bearing cage brake / shatter after 3 mo. on a China cheap outer CV on a Caddy. Amazing as that's an under 100 hp drivetrain. Don't buy cheapo replacement axles.
For some reason my rotor wont spin with the screw driver trick. Any idea why?
Most likely your emergency brake is on or your car is in gear.
Man, I wish the A4-chassis VWs had sealed bearings and axle bolts instead of axle nuts that require Incredible Hulk levels of torque in a special sequence, and were removable without undoing the ball joints.
I’m going to do this next for my A4B7
I used to remove the heat shield over the passenger axle. Then you could slip the axle out without much hassle.
how do you do that?
@@timoneil1193 by undoing the fasteners?
@@panzerveps u access the fasteners under the hood or in the wheel well?
@@timoneil1193 well, if you want to disassemble everything in the engine bay to get to the heat shields, be my guest.
Of course you do it via the wheel wells.
oh boy i really hope this method works on a mk2 tt front passenger side... i really don't want to disassemble the whole thing to replace a knocky drive shaft...
Mine keeps breaking 3 in a month any clue no its low
For the passenger side i just removed the heat shield that gave me plenty of room to take off the axle
This is for manual transmissions only. Good luck with an auto trans since common folks don't have the special tool :)
Mine vibrated with aftermarket axle
Dudeee ,did you just fart before you take down that tire🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂🤣🤪🤓💥💥❗❓❓❓
Axles? I see driveshafts.
those are definitely CV Axles
@@Hookset69 In the UK they're called driveshafts :)
Also called Half Shafts.
I just had to have the transverse case removed to get the inner stuck boot removed🤦🏾♂️
“Twist the tip as he’s pulling out and push it in”
5:50 what a funny joke.
Im not in the north or south🤷 I guess you mean snow or no snow so I'm no snow so I'm good.....I guess🤦🤣
Always replace...never.
can i just audi s4 b5 axles in the audio a4 b7 👀 i want 1000hp monster... i dont want to break axles and driveshaft shop sell 1000hp axles for the s4 b5
10mm what ??
TRX / tripple Square
Real
they are not axles they are drive shafts
those are definitely CV Axles.
They are not axles they are drive shafts.Axles do not have cv joints..axles have bushes