The Work Bench - Mega-G & Mega-G Plus Hop Ups
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Some basic Hop Ups for Mega-G and Mega-G Plus are looked at. Aftermarket axle sets and tires solve most problems these two cars have. Also Life Like "T" car gears are explored as replacement parts for Mega-G Plus.
Old G plus ( motor in frame ) we used to use tyco axle about .005 thinner would help with handling . Chassis would rock a bit . Also used to tweak the chassis ( bend them ) boiling water and a machinists vise . This enabled a larger rear tire with the same chassis hight more in the front for more top end with a taller wheel . I used to cheat a bit with the stock gravity magnets . I found rare earth magnet disc’s and would file down an area on top of the stock magnets under the The magnet chassis clip hid the rare earth magnet . Looked perfectly stock . Hollow axles weren’t allowed either but a drop of super glue and a touch of silver paint over the open ends did that trick .
We use 24volt…2 deep cycle car batteries in series with the charger on during races . A Parma controller with 45 ohm resistor with or without brakes the way we wired them . The G cars were excellent with this power ( tyco also ) . Rocar would burn up most times . Also used Amrack body’s on the G’s with some plastruct tee plastic that clipped into the chassis body clip area . That old white Porsche body was great in our sports classes . Have fun !
Thanks for the information! I just picked-up an International set with four Mega-G cars that don't run as well as they should. This will get me started.
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@ignacj In case you’re still reading replies to your question: I just got a mega g+ car to try out on my AFX Super International track. With the 120 ohm AFX controller the car has smooth acceleration at the middle setting (14V) of the tri-power pack. The car accelerates from the very beginning of trigger travel and you can control it to go slow or faster and everything in between. It is still possible to go too fast around a curve and crash. But overall the car moves more comfortable for my eyes. Like you I want to see more than just a blur as the car goes around the track. However there’s still a point where the “realistic” perception isn’t totally there. That’s the nature of cars with magnets.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge Terry!
Thanks I'm gonna have to try this. I just got my first Mega G+ and was disappointed. My stock SRT wipes the floor with it because the Mega G+ flys right off the track at a much lower speed.
Great info and demo.
Thanks for the info! I have 4 Mega G cars that I need to keep going. Needing rebuild kits and maybe some of those LifeLike TChassis gears for replacements.
AFX Slot Pin too long for Tyco Track.
What is the proper procedure to shorten the pin so it doesn't bottom out on Tyco Track.???
I have a number of SG+ and Mega G cars. After watching your video and a couple others that have covered the new Mega G +, I am not inclined to get any Mega G+ cars. I have Parma 45 ohm controllers and love them for all my current cars. It sounds like the new Mega G+ cars might need new 120 ohm controllers. Speed isn't everything to me when I race. Being that much of the fun in changing components on the motors is gone, can anyone convince me why I should go out and get any Mega G+ cars?
Any advice on switching out the magnets on Mega G+ ? Just pop em out?
How did you get the factory front axle off? Thanks.
Hi, I don’t have a comment but I do have a question. Why do the mega F1 bodies have two different front wings, wide and narrow?
The original Mega-G cars had the wide front wing. The late model Mega-G+ cars have the narrow wing.
The Mega G is my least favourite chassis, and gave me so much grief (long and short) compared to a Turbo chassis. I probably wouldn't go out of my way to find another one.
I agree !
My ugly $40 USA Wizzard Storm Extreme eats Mega G cars like candy....
Nice video though for G fans.
How's throttle control on these cars - assuming you have some sort of a decent (aftermarket?) controller? Can you take magnets off and make it more challenging at slow speeds? I have Carrera 1/32 digital setup, but I'm looking for something with smaller footprint that I'll be more likely to use on temporary layouts. I do not like excessive speeds that magnets allow for as this leads to bad crashes and less driving finesse. I was considering 1/43 analog setup, but I think HO would allow for more track in smaller space 8' x 5'. Thanks
The Mega-G when hopped up can use a 35 to 45 ohm controller. The + cars have a much higher ohm motor and need perhaps a 80 ohm after being hopped up .
I owned an HO raceway in Michigan for 25 years, 1990-2015.Also a portable track we took to fairs and festivals for 15 years.Track power control was priority so our rental cars were not abused by customers that want to crash into each other on our 6-lane tracks.The answer to destruction or a lot of wrenching was the variable power supply. The best investment for your track, ever. Mine is a 0-30 volt variable 10 amp with digital read out at ebay for under $60.00 Now you control the power to your cars were they are comfortable to drive. Power down for T-Jet and other non traction magnet cars ~ power up for lightning fast neo traction magnet Storm extreme cars.This tutorial was OK for the concept, but I would rather spend more time on the track, rather then at the work bench.
Sure, lowering voltage will slow cars down, but magnets will make them stick and require less finesse from drivers. This almost eliminates need to "carve" that corner at the edge of wiping out. I can do simila thing on Carrera 132s, but was wondering if the same is possible on smaller HO scale. Just due to the fact atht HO cars are smaller and lighter, how fine throttle control do they have? Just to illustrate my point, if you ever driven any RC cars, large scale will always give you better driving feel, more control in corners, jumps, body roll etc. As a matter of fact, the same principle applies to RC planes, bigger is simply better as far as "feel" goes. So HO cars, they are tiny, light, have very powerful magnets... how much throttle control you have on these? If I was to remove magnets all together, are they driveable at all? Not looking for super speed, nor trying to simplify driving skill requirements. Hope that makes sense. Thanks
I use a Parma 45 ohm controller. I think you missed my point. Power down 9-12 volts for hard to handle non traction magnet cars and power up 14-22 volts for moderate to strong traction magnet cars.I owned a Futaba RC in the past and to compare RC to HO slot cars seems silly.18 volts is the norm for national HO racing events. Power down for rookies and power up for professionals.
What do you think of the NC-2 by Jag Hobbies looks like a mega-g. Is the mega-g better than the plus
Can you do a video to replace regular mega g plus motor with high performance motor, the wires to solder are confusing. Thanks
Is there a strength between 30 and 42 or is 42 needed?
Like the info,I ask myself,how fast do I want to go? for speed I'll get your chessie,all my other factory stock cars, just upgrade,Wheels ,axles ,ring and pinion.. bye'eeee
Do you guys have a parts list or a build kit you can supply
Why change the mega g plus magnets?
My mega G burned up after the first five laps can you run it without the circuit board and just hardwire the can motor to the pick up shoes it looks like the circuit board burned up.
i do not know. I've not had that situation to test.
You can bypass the board by jumpering both pickups to the motor tabs. There's a video that shows how to do it on YT.
Im new to this hobby. The Super G Plus and the Pancake Thunder Jet Cars are no longer made ? Is that correct ? ... Do you thing the Pancake Motor Thunder Jet cars are Better over the Mega G Series Cars ?
Vipers replace the Super G.
I can't get the front wheels off lol
same , never see anyone show how to remove that factory front axel. I am so afraid to break the chassis, but it won't even come off with standard wheel pullers that put metal up vs the metal center and pull the plastic rim out. what's the right way to do this for a factory mega G plus front axel removal?
fyi, I just cut the axel off with the diagnal cutter on a strong pair of plyers I have, not the best method, as it destroys that particular axel, but upgrading it anyway and rarely use the parts that I pull when I do the upgrades, so I figured at least I could get this one done. but am hoping for a non destructive method at some point, at least this way though I did not twist or damage the chassis itself
In your video you say that we can call you… I am the owner of a new 6 lane 74 foot custom built cnc Brad track.
I'm wondering where I can buy some of these parts you were talking about axles tires pick up shoes etc.
Roger
863.450.9835
How can i get my meg G + car super fast
Change magnets, tires and armature and pickup shoes.
From my personal experience: these cars are garbage. Unless you want to go slow, which I'm surprised by the comments how many people do want to do...
I have a few mega G and plus cars that are pretty good after changing magnets, wheels and tires, shoes, etc. Some seem to respond well to these upgrades and some don't do as well for whatever reason. However, the can motors absolutely suck. Honestly the only reason I have any of these is because they were given to me for free (brand jew in packaging). I would never buy one. By the time you invest in a car and hop ups, just buy a wizzard or some other fast out of the box car.
Afx has been a joke since the super G + passed on.... I have no idea why they're comfortable producing junk when it would be that much more to produce good cars. The bodies are nice, other than that, pfft. Junk.