EW0119 - USB-C PD3.1 Decoy Trigger - Power Your Project From USB-C
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- A follow up to 'EW0026 - USB PD & QC Triggers - Power Your Project From USB' • EW0026 - USB PD & QC T...
We take a look at how you can use PD3.1 Decoy / Trigger boards to allow powering high power devices with 28V from USB-C PD3.1 compatible power supplies / chargers.
A look at PPS / EPS Modes that allow the USB-C PD to work as a variable power supply delivering up to 5A over a wide range of voltages at 20mV increments.
Also a bit from a recent livestream on SATA USB issues.
USB-C Power Meter That supports PD3.1: www.aliexpress...
www.aliexpress...
PD3.1 Trigger with Buttons: www.aliexpress...
Small PD Trigger Board: www.aliexpress...
PD Trigger PCB With Barrel Plug: www.aliexpress...
PD Trigger PCB With Switches: www.aliexpress...
PD Trigger Barrel Plug Cables: www.aliexpress...
High Efficiency Buck Converter: www.aliexpress...
Adjustable Power Supply: www.aliexpress...
Thick and stiff 240W USB-C PD3.1 Cable: www.aliexpress...
PD3.0 Cable with Display: www.aliexpress...
USB-C PD3.1 Power Supplies:
slimq.life/pro...
sharge.com/pro...
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Very cool, thanks for the video. Really useful info~ I've been using more USB-C PD stuff lately, but yeah it can be finicky in many situations and the thick cables are scary to use. I actually buy cables with 90 degree plugs, cause it puts way less strain on receptacles of delicate/expensive devices. The plug soldering seems to be quite unreliable and doesn't like bending forces on the long side. I got an NP-F01 adapter (branded by several companies) for Sony's NP-F batteries (I have a bunch of F970's lying around unused) which was only like $20 I think, and I was surprised how complex the circuitry was. Has built-in USB-C charging, a boost converter for 12V/2A PD output, standard 5V/2A output and a direct 7.4V 5A tap from the battery. Only 22W output in the end, but I've been using it as a power bank with much more reliable and chonky batteries haha. One of the USB-C chargers I have is the MANTO 110W model, which has voltage and current readouts for each output, which is kinda cute. Only 65W max for a single output tho.
What I'd love to see in the future is some thinner/more flexible USB-C cables with power adapters that could do 48V/2A or heck even 48V/1A. Higher voltage is definitely the way to go but it'll take time for the industry to get there. But yeah cool stuff, thanks for all the demos!
Good idea with the Right Angled cables. I do have a couple. Not so good on a computer though, it usually blocks other ports.
I don't have any batteries for my Sony Video Camera. Use it with external Power for now. I was thinking about getting a SWIT LB-SU90C for it (Pretty $$$ though). Exciting because it has USB-C, For charging and as power output, only 45W, bit sucky, that battery could easily do 100W. I guess they didn't want to take up space with a big switchmode circuit in it.
I like anyone who can be passionate about power supplies 🍓And yes, melting PVC cable insulation is unbearable
Yea, I become obsessed with these small GaN Power Supplies.
True about stiff cables and ports. At work they bought a bunch of laptops with USB-C ports for connecting the power supply, and one by one the ports were breaking. The older laptops with barrel plugs never broke. What I don’t understand is why the USB conglomerate has developed something that can push so many amps and resulting watts through such tiny plugs with tiny pins. It seems like a USB-A or B plug with the bigger pins would be much better suited for that many watts of power. They can still be USB3 for the faster data rates.
I think the idea was one port that can be used for everything and when it is everything it has to be tiny to suit smaller devices.
There are 4 pins in the USB-C connector for the + Power Connection & 4 Pins for ground + Shield. When it is good quality and good condition, 4 pins will handle 5A total without problems.
Overall, the connector is too delicate. It needs to have a recess for the plug body to do into to reduce strain on the connector contacts.
That one at 11:00 looks identical to the one that came with my asus laptop, except for the surface finish and mine has a universal connector on the end for different plugs for different regions
It is possible the company that makes it uses the same internal parts in a different enclosure for other manufacturers. The Lenovo one is made by 'Powerland Technology Inc'
How have you found the SlimQ power supply? They've been on my list for a while but have read mixed reviews on them.
The 150W version don't seem to be good. Both of mine have failed after only being used at light loads. No problems with any others.
@@Elecami Good to know, the 150W version is the only one that interested me unfortunately. Most of my USB charging is done by a couple of YZXStudio chargers that are DC powered. Means I can power them with an external Meanwell PSU and they work brilliantly for around home or at work.
The external PSU design isnt so great for travelling though, so still on the prowl for something that meets my standards for that.
AllThingsOnePlace makes some really good, in depth reviews on USB chargers if that tickles your fancy. Real nerd stuff haha.
trying to run my 12v dc fridge on usb-c. found out it works fine on 28v since its close enough to 24v and most 12v compressors work on 24v too. got a new 3.1 140w rocerin adaptor and a 28v pd trigger board and it immediately burnt out my pd 3.1 port on my adaptor.... confused as to what i did wrong. the trigger board is kind of sketchy looking and was much cheaper than the others. i will try getting a 240w cable and all of the pd 3.1 trigger boards in this video.
wonder if its the compressor or something. when its running it only pulls ~2amps at 28v...
Compressor will have a high start up current. It is probably not possible to start it from the USB-C power supply without using some form of soft starter or buffer / DC-DC Converter.
@@Elecami ya but if the power supply can do more amps than the one they sent with the fridge and its double the voltage i think i should have more than enough overhead
@@vevenaneathna You should not be running the compressor at a higher voltage, it will cause it to draw more current and will probably burn out after a while. You need to power it with the correct voltage.
@@Elecami higher voltage = lower current. i think you mean it will draw higher wattage? im guessing almost all the 12v fridge compressors are just 24v compressors that are run on low voltage. you wouldnt say the same for a 24v rv fridge. most old school "24v lead acid" setups in rv's charge at 30v. take a look at your "12v car battery" next time after the engine turns on, it will be at around 14.5-15v from the alternator.
@@vevenaneathna I'll leave this up to you. If you increase the voltage on a DC motor it will draw more current and more power.