Hi Harry, We were asked to test a " Club " lock for a Motoring Organization, that were going to offer them to their members years ago. The " cross the steering wheel lock " had the same lock as shown in your video, although from memory it had more pins. We used a pipe key blank and removed the bit on the end. By filing grooves across the key blank with a round file, in a random fashion, and using it as a rake, it opened all we tested. Unusual key and lock, but as you said, tolerances were not up to scratch. Regards, Brian.
"This is the Lock picking Lawyer, and what i have for today is a ancient Greek spiritual based locking stone. This is one of the most complicated I've seen so far, so say it with me" ' I'm the lock picking lawyer ' *clicks* "Left rune is binding" "here we go"
123456?!?!? that's the same as my luggage combonation!!! that is a pretty interesting circular dimple core though, albeit poorly executed, but a neat technology to be sure!!!
I think it was titled "Savage". Not overly crazy, very tidy pins, much better than I can do with my dremel. Does it take Bill long to get around to featuring your locks?
Nice picking. It's like a cross lock with an even more open keyway. Once I saw the notch on the key, I figured that would be where you tension. I really like the key number. 😂 Probably works as the password on the company servers also.
Seen same lock where the lock core is on side inside the tubular part . Also wonder if that lock would take a Abloy core , they have some pop up locks too .
one way to keep someone from pulling the chock out while you are working on something at least and a slight theft deterrent would keep tweekers from at least trying to boost it since they can't use bolt cutters on it and cutting it would take to long and to loud *if you have neighbors*
I got this wheel lock on my car for parking somewhere closer to the faculty building because was moving stuff for a club event. Was gonna try to pick it since I'm somewhat of an amateur lock picker. I help people in my apartment open their room doors if they accidentally lock themselves in, which happens a lot tbh. But when I saw it was kinda loose already I just try to pull it off and it came off with just a tiny bit of effort and I just drove away swore not to park there anymore🤣🤣
I never understood disliking a video in general, there's only been a few that I truly disliked enough to hit the button. I mean, they took the time to make and edit a FREE video for the public to watch, and they're going to complain about it?
My boss has nearly half a dozen of these as knob lock sets. But I don't think there's any notch to tension and I think the keys are longer with more dimples. I'll try to get some pictures.
Given the fact that the core is brass and the size of the hole in the part of the brace behind it, I wonder if a strike on the brace from the side with a hammer would break the rear pin of the lock. Of course, that depends on how much of the brace is left protruding when it's affixed to a wheel. If it's fully closed then a strike on it would do no good but, if it's extended by at least one notch, a strike might just work in breaking it.
If I understand rightly what you are saying, I doubt it: 1. The amount of extension of the locking arm has nothing to do with the resistance of the pin slotting into the hole. 2. The two "arms" of the lock would have to be placed quite tightly against the wheel/tyre to clamp it and prevent removal, so I don't think you'd have much room for a hammer blow, though perhaps if one could fix a slide hammer attachment very near the lock it could word (but back to point 1: if the pin is e.g. stainless steel with a good diameter and length, good luck with that approach)
From the photos, it may not be locked against the wheel that tightly to where it can't be compressed. Even if it was, it is likely to be pressing on the tire rather than the metal wheel. I think a couple of small sledge hammers swung to hit both side simultaneously could fracture the pin. If that didn't work, I'd look at a screw spreader.
OK - I misunderstood what +Gary Rumain was saying. I was thinking of "spreading" rather than "compressing", in which case the comment above makes a lot more sense. Thanks +Russell Hltn
I was actually thinking of striking it from one of the sides at the corner. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. The sheer force should be enough to break the pin in the pin hole size the holes are quite small compared to the rest of the clamp. Since the lock is brass, I'm guessing that the pin used is also brass. The clamp would need to be extended by at least one pin hole for that to work. If it's fully inserted then it's not going to. I also just realised that you'd also need to brace it on the opposite side or any strike isn't going to do much.
I think you could only hit the outside of the clamp when it's attached to a wheel. The other side would still need to be braced (perhaps against the car body). The clamp would still need to be extended by at least one notch to allow any hammer strike to sheer the pin behind the lock. Of course, until someone actually tries it, this is only theoretical.
Thank you for these tutorials, but I'm wondering what the solution is, which locks work? It's great that you show us what doesn't work, but I don't see the solution or options that do work
I think they have the option of making 1 more cut depth where the key would be drilled through in that area completely. Thus the key should be able to handle a few through holes and this plus some serrated pins would increase the time of professionals in picking the lock.
Steel is good, brass is okay, cylinder looks intimidating. Not too bad for the price considering most would try something else or try a physical attack. Nice vid as usual.👍🏽🍺😎
I have two of these units. One key has a 'B' followed by a 5 digit number and the other has a 'C' followed by a 6 digit number. Both numbers start with '134' but are pretty random after that.
I'd love to see an alternative attack on it like try at impressioning it or even making your own key. it seems like you might even be able to ignore the 0 cuts and just make a blank with all 5 cuts and put something in the divits to fill them back up to a 0 cut if not used. Also I sent you a message about some flaws I found on the Abus Bordo combination locks that allow them to be opened by findinging 4 false gates then looking for the real gates one by one. I'm sure you can figure it out if you try it a bit.
In my experience, not many things are stronger than a 12v drill and a Milwaukee stepped bit. And not many things can do it so quick and dirty, especially if you don't care about the bit (You lose a surprising amount of keys running jobsites)
Depends on the type of lock used. But you can also have locking nuts on the wheels. I used to see those around sometimes when fancy wheels were being stolen.
Does not tyre locks that cities use have padlocks ? You put it in place and adjust with a cam to clamp the rim and then lock it with a padlock ... by that you can have several keys and no master key and also you can change the locks if staff is fired .
Pete Lind the ones in nyc have electronic keypads; you call a phone number, pay your bills, they give you the code, you unlock it and bring it to a boot return location.
$55 and that's a little more than $1 per second to open it. Maybe they sent you an easy one, guessing from that key number? One can only hope. Thanks LPL.
Hello looking for wheel blocks for my car, I find your chanel very interesting and really very impressed by your demonstrations and test of these tools. If you allow me, I would like to solicit your experience on this subject. Can you please recommend me some "wheel block" products that you judge of better quality and safety? Thank you in advance and good day.
I can confirm that your key "A123456" is a fluke. I checked mine and my key number starts with a "B" and is followed by 5 seemingly random numbers. I can also confirm that my key only has two cut levels like yours... very shallow and very deep.
It is much easier to fabricate: typical zinc alloys melt around 400 °C, against the ~1400 °C of steel, and unlike steel it pours and casts easily so the moulds/dies used in manufacturing last longer. It's also corrosion-resistant and much softer. Although the raw material is more expensive, for a relatively complex but small shape produced in industrial volumes zinc will almost certainly be cheaper than fabricated steel.
I don't think it was cast. From the look of it, it's standard tubular steel beams and rolled steel beams that have been formed into the required shape. Much simpler.
you could stick a bent piece of metal in an exposed hole if the tire was so wise that the hole could be accessed and depress the detent locking it in place.
This type of lock does not cover the hub, because that would complicate installation, and not fit a varied range of wheel sizes. It is always ESSENTIAL to buy a better quality lock, like the RACK'EM with an Abloy or Medeco cylinder, and use McGard locking lugnuts on all wheels and spare. I am surprised you did not look at OTHER exploit opportunities on this TriMax badged product.
I have a bundle of broken bristles from the street sweepers that frequent the city in the spring and summer. They're all some kind of spring steel, about 1/8" x 1/4" and anywhere from 4" to 6" long. They're also fairly rusted but still quite solid. I've seen coworkers convert these into fairly nice-looking lockpicks but would spring steel work for a tension bar?
I picked the steering wheel version of this lock in a video. It has the same core and I just raked it quickly. I also used a different method to tension.
I wonder how long it would take to pick the locks on two of these while kneeing on gravel under a trailer - then pick the hitch lock - then pick or drill out the coupler vault - then figure out how to lift the trailer up to hitch to a tow vehicle when the jack has no power and the chains have been removed??? Great video to shown nothing is absolute, however, in the real world it's not as simple as on your desk - just saying.
It comes down to 3 rules really; Never pick a lock you don’t own without the owner’s permission Never pick a lock in use Follow regional laws regarding lockpicking applicable to your country/state/municipality toool.us/bylaws.html (Rules of Ethics) While applicable to members of TOOOL, anyone who wants locksport to remain a legal hobby should follow.
That was interesting, would of love to see the core,but ì know you have to return it.I do watch all of your videos, ì don't always leave a comment. I thought at first you only picked easy locks, (that was a long time ago) You brother have great skills. Would love to see more gun lock stuff. And would like to ASK you if you make challenge locks? Or if you send locks to your followers? I really would like to get some pad locks to pick, then re-pin them and see you pick them. If this could be done, please drop me a text. Thanks Mr.L.P.L.
How would you put tension on the lock if it wasn't for the notch? Why couldn't they put a notch on the front of the key that hooks onto something inside the lock and not on the surface of it?
What would be your recommendation for the best trailer lock? I’ve been going through a few dozen and I’m finally looking at something like the Blaylock coupler shackle with a good padlock.
Problem with a coupler lock alone is that they can just use the safety chains to wrap around their hitch, roll away, and deal with the coupler (or more likely strip the inside) with all the time in the world. I use both wheel locks and couplers. I plan to replace the wheel locks with a good chain and padlock.
So... Do I give your video a thumbs up for your picking prowess, or a thumbs down for the locks pathetic weakness? Guess I'll just give you your deserved thumbs up as usual to be safe :)
How would you make it more difficult to tension the core? Looks like a pretty well put together lock but it looks like they got lazy when they thought of tensioning
Am I missing something? How is this lock going to secure a verhicle? It seems to be just loosely clamped to the rim. So wont any verhicle worth it salt just roll over that stopping block and drag the whole thing along like a weird wheel-ornament?
Sure.. absolutely any combination lock.. he has to "manipulate" those rather than "picking" them... OK Maybe that's a distinction without a difference, but your question begged such an answer. Besides there are a couple or three.. and if you find his interview he says there are "many"
![[1570] My Viewer Broke The Law… Please Don’t.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tJI2e8V1tNI/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Harry, We were asked to test a " Club " lock for a Motoring Organization, that were going to offer them to their members years ago. The " cross the steering wheel lock " had the same lock as shown in your video, although from memory it had more pins. We used a pipe key blank and removed the bit on the end. By filing grooves across the key blank with a round file, in a random fashion, and using it as a rake, it opened all we tested. Unusual key and lock, but as you said, tolerances were not up to scratch. Regards, Brian.
"This is the Lock picking Lawyer, and what i have for today is a ancient Greek spiritual based locking stone. This is one of the most complicated I've seen so far, so say it with me" ' I'm the lock picking lawyer ' *clicks* "Left rune is binding" "here we go"
SO UNDERRATED
ok, i know 3 years late and nitpicky, but... Greeks didn't have runes. Those are Germanic/Nordic.
@@undertakernumberone1 Just go with it man haha it was a pretty good joke
I'd prefer have Kratos sitting inside the car as a deterrent
123456?!?!? that's the same as my luggage combonation!!!
that is a pretty interesting circular dimple core though, albeit poorly executed, but a neat technology to be sure!!!
Please tell me you were joking!
lmao damn, beaten by three years. But I guess I'm glad it didn't take that long, because I immediately thought the same thing lol
Kuddos to TriMax for attempting to reinvent the wheel... but they should have had YOU as a consultant on the locking mechanism
True, at first glance I would be deterred due to the strange keyway. But now that I see how it works, I’d give it a go. Thanks for sharing this
Albert Lebel Loved your challenge lock
Driv3r Murray Well thank you so much, do tell, which one are you referring to?
I think it was titled "Savage". Not overly crazy, very tidy pins, much better than I can do with my dremel. Does it take Bill long to get around to featuring your locks?
Nice picking. It's like a cross lock with an even more open keyway. Once I saw the notch on the key, I figured that would be where you tension. I really like the key number. 😂 Probably works as the password on the company servers also.
Seen same lock where the lock core is on side inside the tubular part .
Also wonder if that lock would take a Abloy core , they have some pop up locks too .
The moment my Dad bought this lock I knew I'd find this video on your channel 😂
Was his key also A123456?
@@NahtShure no actually, tho that would've been interesting 😂
This feels more like lockout/tagout than anti-theft to me.
one way to keep someone from pulling the chock out while you are working on something at least and a slight theft deterrent would keep tweekers from at least trying to boost it since they can't use bolt cutters on it and cutting it would take to long and to loud *if you have neighbors*
_A123456?_ That's amazing! I've got the same combination on my luggage!
I got this wheel lock on my car for parking somewhere closer to the faculty building because was moving stuff for a club event. Was gonna try to pick it since I'm somewhat of an amateur lock picker. I help people in my apartment open their room doors if they accidentally lock themselves in, which happens a lot tbh.
But when I saw it was kinda loose already I just try to pull it off and it came off with just a tiny bit of effort and I just drove away swore not to park there anymore🤣🤣
I guess nothing would really stock a professional lock picker.. it’s just whether the vehicle is worth their time and risk…
Who on Earth dislikes these videos? I understand disliking the locks - often there is very little to like about them - but the videos? Bah, humbug!
dlevi67 The guy who designed the lock I think would be strong candidate to dislike the video.
Fair point...
I never understood disliking a video in general, there's only been a few that I truly disliked enough to hit the button. I mean, they took the time to make and edit a FREE video for the public to watch, and they're going to complain about it?
"The guy who designed the lock" yea i am preaty sure that he just ripped off Gerda TYTAN ZX design and its clear that he made a very crapy job...
like or dislike can be used as an feedback indicator like the comments
My boss has nearly half a dozen of these as knob lock sets. But I don't think there's any notch to tension and I think the keys are longer with more dimples. I'll try to get some pictures.
Given the fact that the core is brass and the size of the hole in the part of the brace behind it, I wonder if a strike on the brace from the side with a hammer would break the rear pin of the lock. Of course, that depends on how much of the brace is left protruding when it's affixed to a wheel. If it's fully closed then a strike on it would do no good but, if it's extended by at least one notch, a strike might just work in breaking it.
If I understand rightly what you are saying, I doubt it:
1. The amount of extension of the locking arm has nothing to do with the resistance of the pin slotting into the hole.
2. The two "arms" of the lock would have to be placed quite tightly against the wheel/tyre to clamp it and prevent removal, so I don't think you'd have much room for a hammer blow, though perhaps if one could fix a slide hammer attachment very near the lock it could word (but back to point 1: if the pin is e.g. stainless steel with a good diameter and length, good luck with that approach)
From the photos, it may not be locked against the wheel that tightly to where it can't be compressed. Even if it was, it is likely to be pressing on the tire rather than the metal wheel. I think a couple of small sledge hammers swung to hit both side simultaneously could fracture the pin. If that didn't work, I'd look at a screw spreader.
OK - I misunderstood what +Gary Rumain was saying. I was thinking of "spreading" rather than "compressing", in which case the comment above makes a lot more sense. Thanks +Russell Hltn
I was actually thinking of striking it from one of the sides at the corner. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. The sheer force should be enough to break the pin in the pin hole size the holes are quite small compared to the rest of the clamp. Since the lock is brass, I'm guessing that the pin used is also brass.
The clamp would need to be extended by at least one pin hole for that to work. If it's fully inserted then it's not going to. I also just realised that you'd also need to brace it on the opposite side or any strike isn't going to do much.
I think you could only hit the outside of the clamp when it's attached to a wheel. The other side would still need to be braced (perhaps against the car body). The clamp would still need to be extended by at least one notch to allow any hammer strike to sheer the pin behind the lock. Of course, until someone actually tries it, this is only theoretical.
Thank you for these tutorials, but I'm wondering what the solution is, which locks work? It's great that you show us what doesn't work, but I don't see the solution or options that do work
What happens inside the core during picking is still a big mystery to some (me??!). A cam view inside the core would be awesome.
RizingSunRacing search for "the mit guide to lockpicking" has lots of diagrams so you can picture whats happening
I think they have the option of making 1 more cut depth where the key would be drilled through in that area completely. Thus the key should be able to handle a few through holes and this plus some serrated pins would increase the time of professionals in picking the lock.
I wonder if a couple holes in the side of a bic pen, spun around inside while tensioning the lock, would open it up.
Steel is good, brass is okay, cylinder looks intimidating. Not too bad for the price considering most would try something else or try a physical attack. Nice vid as usual.👍🏽🍺😎
Looks as if a simple drill could be used on that effectively.
I just watched Bill work this lock, almost EXACTLY the same way, except he used dimple flag!
fyi, I just bought one of these, and indeed, each fo the 8 dimples seems to be one of two depths, but the key number is NOT A12345, its A125xx
Do these videos remind anyone of being at the dentist?
Yep every single video.
Yes so much so
Not until I read your comment
Absolutely not, I hate the dentist >_
'bottom is binding'
Hell yeah I am lock daddy 🤣
690
2:00 - That's amazing, I've got the same combination on my luggage!
I have two of these units. One key has a 'B' followed by a 5 digit number and the other has a 'C' followed by a 6 digit number. Both numbers start with '134' but are pretty random after that.
I'd love to see an alternative attack on it like try at impressioning it or even making your own key. it seems like you might even be able to ignore the 0 cuts and just make a blank with all 5 cuts and put something in the divits to fill them back up to a 0 cut if not used. Also I sent you a message about some flaws I found on the Abus Bordo combination locks that allow them to be opened by findinging 4 false gates then looking for the real gates one by one. I'm sure you can figure it out if you try it a bit.
In my experience, not many things are stronger than a 12v drill and a Milwaukee stepped bit. And not many things can do it so quick and dirty, especially if you don't care about the bit
(You lose a surprising amount of keys running jobsites)
As the idea looks sound I wonder if it's possible to change the core for something more secure.
1 of these on each wheel should do the trick combined with locks on the coupler and everywhere else for my trailer
Thanks for showing the thieves
I wonder how difficult a boot would be to pick from nyc
Depends on the type of lock used. But you can also have locking nuts on the wheels. I used to see those around sometimes when fancy wheels were being stolen.
Does not tyre locks that cities use have padlocks ?
You put it in place and adjust with a cam to clamp the rim and then lock it with a padlock ... by that you can have several keys and no master key and also you can change the locks if staff is fired .
Pete Lind the ones in nyc have electronic keypads; you call a phone number, pay your bills, they give you the code, you unlock it and bring it to a boot return location.
cordless angle grinder :)
What an interesting lock from Trimax. Great picking as usual and thanks for the review brother
$55 and that's a little more than $1 per second to open it. Maybe they sent you an easy one, guessing from that key number? One can only hope. Thanks LPL.
A nice stick pen will also open just needs to be a round tube.
Really enjoyed that showing.
I really wish there were a lock that takes more then a minute for LPL to pick... the videos are way too short.
When I read the title, I read this: Wild Key 8-Pin TriMax Wheel Lock ̶P̶i̶c̶k̶e̶d̶ Appeared
I like this lock. Security by obscurity.
Cool lock for sure id like the see the part that goes into the holes. Possible weak point maybe?
Hello
looking for wheel blocks for my car, I find your chanel very interesting and really very impressed by your demonstrations and test of these tools.
If you allow me, I would like to solicit your experience on this subject.
Can you please recommend me some "wheel block" products that you judge of better quality and safety?
Thank you in advance and good day.
I never saw one like that before!
THR33STEP that’s what she said......but yes, very interesting lock
I can confirm that your key "A123456" is a fluke. I checked mine and my key number starts with a "B" and is followed by 5 seemingly random numbers. I can also confirm that my key only has two cut levels like yours... very shallow and very deep.
It looks like the lock that was in my old "Prolock" steering wheel lock when i got my first can.
Looks to be all steel, stamped and welded. It’s s good way to make things. I’ve no idea why zinc gets used so much unless it’s just incredibly cheap.
It is much easier to fabricate: typical zinc alloys melt around 400 °C, against the ~1400 °C of steel, and unlike steel it pours and casts easily so the moulds/dies used in manufacturing last longer. It's also corrosion-resistant and much softer. Although the raw material is more expensive, for a relatively complex but small shape produced in industrial volumes zinc will almost certainly be cheaper than fabricated steel.
I don't think it was cast. From the look of it, it's standard tubular steel beams and rolled steel beams that have been formed into the required shape. Much simpler.
Looks like a Gerda lock design, I bet it will be hard to pi... oh, ok, never mind.
Gerda Tytan design is using 16 pins also quality here is nothing like in the original.
you could stick a bent piece of metal in an exposed hole if the tire was so wise that the hole could be accessed and depress the detent locking it in place.
This type of lock does not cover the hub, because that would complicate installation, and not fit a varied range of wheel sizes. It is always ESSENTIAL to buy a better quality lock, like the RACK'EM with an Abloy or Medeco cylinder, and use McGard locking lugnuts on all wheels and spare. I am surprised you did not look at OTHER exploit opportunities on this TriMax badged product.
He's good I thought he was going to have more trouble than that
I have a bundle of broken bristles from the street sweepers that frequent the city in the spring and summer. They're all some kind of spring steel, about 1/8" x 1/4" and anywhere from 4" to 6" long. They're also fairly rusted but still quite solid.
I've seen coworkers convert these into fairly nice-looking lockpicks but would spring steel work for a tension bar?
*All so very great for tensioning your p hole to get out calcium stones that build up*
I picked the steering wheel version of this lock in a video. It has the same core and I just raked it quickly. I also used a different method to tension.
In your opinion what’s the most effective way to protect a trailer from tow away theft?
*Remove the wheels, take the lug nuts with you, and washout any remaining hub bearing grease*
I wonder how long it would take to pick the locks on two of these while kneeing on gravel under a trailer - then pick the hitch lock - then pick or drill out the coupler vault - then figure out how to lift the trailer up to hitch to a tow vehicle when the jack has no power and the chains have been removed??? Great video to shown nothing is absolute, however, in the real world it's not as simple as on your desk - just saying.
Sigh... I can't let myself get a pick, I'd go around stealing locks. 🔐
Not if you follow locksport guidelines lol
Lol
BangDroid where would us new guys find those guidelines?
Basically don't commit crimes. Pretty straight forward. :)
It comes down to 3 rules really;
Never pick a lock you don’t own without the owner’s permission
Never pick a lock in use
Follow regional laws regarding lockpicking applicable to your country/state/municipality
toool.us/bylaws.html (Rules of Ethics)
While applicable to members of TOOOL, anyone who wants locksport to remain a legal hobby should follow.
You are good, man!
Interesting lock. Have you tried to remove the core to gut it?
Nice video. Thanks LPL!
That was interesting, would of love to see the core,but ì know you have to return it.I do watch all of your videos, ì don't always leave a comment. I thought at first you only picked easy locks, (that was a long time ago) You brother have great skills. Would love to see more gun lock stuff. And would like to ASK you if you make challenge locks? Or if you send locks to your followers? I really would like to get some pad locks to pick, then re-pin them and see you pick them. If this could be done, please drop me a text. Thanks Mr.L.P.L.
Asking for a friend. What happens if you send a 9mm fmj into the locker?
Incredible
You're an amazing lock picker
I don't understand why those cylinder locks have that notch on the front... It doesn't make sense to me
How would you put tension on the lock if it wasn't for the notch? Why couldn't they put a notch on the front of the key that hooks onto something inside the lock and not on the surface of it?
Niceeee
What would be your recommendation for the best trailer lock? I’ve been going through a few dozen and I’m finally looking at something like the Blaylock coupler shackle with a good padlock.
Problem with a coupler lock alone is that they can just use the safety chains to wrap around their hitch, roll away, and deal with the coupler (or more likely strip the inside) with all the time in the world. I use both wheel locks and couplers. I plan to replace the wheel locks with a good chain and padlock.
Laying the smack down 😅
Couldn't you try to pick it with a bic pen tube?
We do people always try to open something locked when you can just cut it off?
Nice
So... Do I give your video a thumbs up for your picking prowess, or a thumbs down for the locks pathetic weakness? Guess I'll just give you your deserved thumbs up as usual to be safe :)
What is your view on teaching criminals and letting them know how to break into stuff???
Lot of effort on the whole body less so on the lock itself
Please do a Titan Grip wheel lock. The one with the tubular lock.
I'd say a cordless sawzall would do the trick.
(Nice.)
time for a destructive video next time? ;P
Totally. I bet you could slide hammer the core out of that thing in no time
You should put a timer up for entertainment purposes
Can that be shimmed? It looks like it could
I hear the words ‘beefy’ and ‘interesting’ and there are less than 3 minutes left. Poor lock.
How would you make it more difficult to tension the core? Looks like a pretty well put together lock but it looks like they got lazy when they thought of tensioning
josh ohman, A long key with tension in the bottom, extra points for a restrictive keyway.
cool. Informative.
Crazy
Would this help with people stealing your car ?
690
3:05
B E C O M E U N G O V E R N A B L E
He said very pricey lol
what if someone lifts the car?
"Tackle & grapple" then "Chock it & lock it".
neat!
Can it be Bumped or Raked?
Could you hit it with the ram set?
Mmmmm.... information!
nothing like parking enforcement n private property
I don't think this is parking enforcement. This is about keeping your trailer from being stolen.
Russell Hltn
that's what i said, parking enforcement on private property, best to lock both wheels and lock the trailer down to something
What would you consider are the most secure cores?
I left off Biggie Smalls to watch this
Would this lock also be vulnerable to a shimming exploit?
Am I missing something? How is this lock going to secure a verhicle? It seems to be just loosely clamped to the rim. So wont any verhicle worth it salt just roll over that stopping block and drag the whole thing along like a weird wheel-ornament?
This is a cheap knock off of a Gerda lock or a Polyvector. Both are more secure than this.
69 butiful
Is there any lock this man can’t pick?
Sure.. absolutely any combination lock.. he has to "manipulate" those rather than "picking" them... OK Maybe that's a distinction without a difference, but your question begged such an answer. Besides there are a couple or three.. and if you find his interview he says there are "many"
Search Naugth bucket in video list.
CONNARD