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Thanks Brother... it's always a good practice to disconnect your battery before doing any work. In all honesty, I have NOOOO idea what the ramifications are should you weld with the battery connected. (I turned off my master Positive disconnect, but did not disconnect the battery) Have fun!
@FastMonty yes always disconnect negative. I believe I saw somewhere with electric welding but doesn't apply to my car cuz mine is old school all the way. But with LS engines and the electronic ignition. It may have an impact on computer and the other electronic components. I have mine on the lift now looking at the clearance for the headers and exhaust did you have a problem with any of that? How many inches out does come from the frame rails? I found summit kit installation instructions online but they don't give measurements of the parts. Appreciate you bro. You are saving a lot of people a lot of time and money. Thanks so much!!
@@schuck9326 Agreed about Electrical interference on computer stuff... From the inside of the new frame rail, to the outside of the tube is almost 12" The gap between the transmission mounts is 21.5" I didn't have to change my exhaust because I originally matched the header collector output to the original humps in the original transmission brace. So, yeah, I could see that being an issue with the transmission brace support if you have the same Driver side header that I have. Hope that helps!
@FastMonty my pipes are running right inside the humps for the original auto transmission mount too. I have 13.5 inches from the frame rail to header collector flange on the driver side and 12.5 on passenger side. Not sure why their different. But hopefully there's enough clearance. I noticed you had the transmission mounts couple inches inside of the C rail before you boxed it in. So did you have to cut some of that off before you welded it to the frame rails?
@@schuck9326 Sounds like your exhaust will fit fine... not sure what you're referencing for what I may or may not have cut. I'd recommend watching Part 1 and 2 again... I show all of the things I had to cut. Let me know.
Man, I just noticed this. Did you install the kit too high in the frame? You left no space on the additional mount for a proper body bushing. I appreciate your videos because I'm learning alot about installing this kit.
@FastMonty Appreciate the response, I'm talking about the additional body mounts. There was not enough space for a body bushing. You welded the kit in the middle of frame versus lowering it a bit which would have given you proper space for a body bushing. You used shims hence the reason I'm questioning.
Ohhhh, I got you. Yeah, I'm not worried... At the time, I was also planning on updating my other bushings to something harder. If you're concerned about that, I'm sure you can find a rubber pad with an ideal Durometer to stick in there. Hope that helps.
Cuz it's not necessary? It would look super duper clean, but would also take another 5 hours of work to do it right. Since this is more for performance, and no one can see it from the outside, I didn't do it. Have fun!
@@FastMonty good to know. Thanks for the response. I am doing a “frame on” restoration and the underbody is my next project once it warms up where I’m at. Just trying to get ideas on what to use your videos are a great help!
Hey there Mike. Love the videos and your car. Got a couple questions if you want give me your thoughts. I have a 70 convertible lamans, as you know the frame is boxed. I do have flex esp when its jacked or raised on a lift. Do they make this for my car? Also I see you bolted the trans mount support to the side bar and up into the floor pan. Doesnt that defeat the isolation between body and frame and cause resonation into the floor pan ? You also mentions stiffening the rear frame ,possible solution is UMI makes a brace that connected the rear shock mounting areas,bolts in across? Also they make a front frame support to go across where the front sway bar mounts? Whats your thoughts on using these? Also,lol, you couldnt still use you first aftermarket transmission cross member,that thing looked tough. Thanks for your time and advice. Tom
Thanks Thomas... congrats on already having a boxed frame. :) I'm a fan of adding support, and I've seen the rear UMI system, which I might just get. Havent' seen the front one yet. (I'm pretty sure my same kit would work for your car, but not 100% sure) No, you can't use another brace without severe mods. Bolting to the body just increases stiffness. I'm not concerned with the current rubber isolators, because they're more than 2 feet away from the bolted area. (Steel has a ton of flex in it, even from point to point 2 feet away) I'll have to look into the UMI front brace. Thanks for the comment, and questions.
70 gto front and rear umi braces . Have flex on 2 post lift. I heard it's normal. Gto nose gap gets larger then goes back when lowered. Looking to do the body on car frame boxing. The front and rear umi braces help driving and cornering.
You know me... anything is possible. Ha, ha... but, if you're referring to side exhaust that exits in front of the rear wheel, it'll depend on your ground clearance. The additional structural tubing will make it a challenge. Let us know if you figure it out. Thanks for the comment!
Been watching all your videos. Love it. @ questions on this kit. 1st have you noticed any improvement in how the car responds? 2nd. after install how do you paint or powder coat where its boxed in or am I over thinking it? LOL
Thanks Jerry! I haven't tested it hard yet, but certainly feels well planted. I thought i covered the weld painting... I used POR 15 with a brush. Thanks for the comment!
Hi MIke, I was looking for you to possibly re-check your driveline angles when you got the tranny cross-members in place. I’m to the point of checking that on my TREMEC T-56 MAGNUM (from SilverSport Transmission) going into my ‘72 Trans Am and was wondering what angle you arrived at on your initial install?
Great question. When infirst put my TKO in, the angle was terrible. (I should have paid more attention during the tunnel cutting phase.) The TKX allowed me to push it up into the tunnel another 1/2 inch, which felt like a mile. So, it's a lot better , but far from perfect purely because my rear is super low. Sorry, not much help there. Let us know how the T/A turns out.
Now just worry about the 50 year old body to frame bolts . They usually break upon removal . I would hate to see the frame going one way and the body going the other.
The was about grueling yes, your resolve here is impressive! Just know this is well appreciated all the things" you had to prepare, deal with, your love for Pontiac is top drawer! Have a question some after market suspension pieces. There are the heim-joint type swivel pieces (CAT5) for the leaf bushing replacement parts. What is your take on those? I like the idea of their dynamic control affect and mechanical stress relief they offer, yet not seen much about them from consumers reporting back .
Thanks! Yeah, heim joints are the way to go. It's exactly what I'm using for my rear suspension. I'll have to do a video summary of that, because lot's of people have been asking. When you're bored, check out Global West Suspension... thanks again!
Yup! I wanted the back sides covered. I did my best to spray the POR15 prep behind there too, which leaves a nice Zinc Oxide coating, where we can't paint. Thanks!
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Your attention to detail is phenomenal! I get you may not think so but "from the outside looking in" - its fantastic!
Nice job sir.
Thanks! Much appreciated!
Congratulations. Wow, that’s a really generous giveaway, especially in these times.
What giveaway?
So glad I found your channel. You are Da Man and you explain stuff so well. Should you disconnect the battery before you weld? Thanks for all you do!
Thanks Brother... it's always a good practice to disconnect your battery before doing any work. In all honesty, I have NOOOO idea what the ramifications are should you weld with the battery connected. (I turned off my master Positive disconnect, but did not disconnect the battery) Have fun!
@FastMonty yes always disconnect negative. I believe I saw somewhere with electric welding but doesn't apply to my car cuz mine is old school all the way. But with LS engines and the electronic ignition. It may have an impact on computer and the other electronic components. I have mine on the lift now looking at the clearance for the headers and exhaust did you have a problem with any of that? How many inches out does come from the frame rails? I found summit kit installation instructions online but they don't give measurements of the parts. Appreciate you bro. You are saving a lot of people a lot of time and money. Thanks so much!!
@@schuck9326 Agreed about Electrical interference on computer stuff... From the inside of the new frame rail, to the outside of the tube is almost 12" The gap between the transmission mounts is 21.5" I didn't have to change my exhaust because I originally matched the header collector output to the original humps in the original transmission brace. So, yeah, I could see that being an issue with the transmission brace support if you have the same Driver side header that I have. Hope that helps!
@FastMonty my pipes are running right inside the humps for the original auto transmission mount too. I have 13.5 inches from the frame rail to header collector flange on the driver side and 12.5 on passenger side. Not sure why their different. But hopefully there's enough clearance. I noticed you had the transmission mounts couple inches inside of the C rail before you boxed it in. So did you have to cut some of that off before you welded it to the frame rails?
@@schuck9326 Sounds like your exhaust will fit fine... not sure what you're referencing for what I may or may not have cut. I'd recommend watching Part 1 and 2 again... I show all of the things I had to cut. Let me know.
Man, I just noticed this. Did you install the kit too high in the frame?
You left no space on the additional mount for a proper body bushing.
I appreciate your videos because I'm learning alot about installing this kit.
Too high?? You mean, just right, don't you? Ha, ha... I NEVER removed the body bushings, hence the perfect fit. Unless I'm missing something?
@FastMonty Appreciate the response, I'm talking about the additional body mounts. There was not enough space for a body bushing. You welded the kit in the middle of frame versus lowering it a bit which would have given you proper space for a body bushing. You used shims hence the reason I'm questioning.
Ohhhh, I got you. Yeah, I'm not worried... At the time, I was also planning on updating my other bushings to something harder. If you're concerned about that, I'm sure you can find a rubber pad with an ideal Durometer to stick in there. Hope that helps.
Love your videos. Thanks for sharing and teaching. I'm building a 72' GTO 462ci..
Awesome! And, you're welcome... thanks for the comment!
Thanks Monty! Keep up the great work.
Glad that one is over... ha, ha... thanks!
Great job Mike let’s get that Goat road ready to see the difference in handling ✌️
Thanks John! I agree! ha, ha...
Hi Mike thanks for another great video, very impressive.
Thanks! Much appreciated!
Great job Mike, lots of useful information
Thanks Bill!
Why didn't smooth out your welds on your boxed in frame before installing this
Cuz it's not necessary? It would look super duper clean, but would also take another 5 hours of work to do it right. Since this is more for performance, and no one can see it from the outside, I didn't do it. Have fun!
Did you do your whole frame in por15? How is it holding up?
Yes sir! Holding up great!
@@FastMonty good to know. Thanks for the response. I am doing a “frame on” restoration and the underbody is my next project once it warms up where I’m at. Just trying to get ideas on what to use your videos are a great help!
Awesome! Good luck! @@b2ja03
Man..thats a great accomplishment, awesome
Thanks Daniel! Yeah, a ton o work that was. Thanks again!
Hey there Mike. Love the videos and your car. Got a couple questions if you want give me your thoughts. I have a 70 convertible lamans, as you know the frame is boxed. I do have flex esp when its jacked or raised on a lift. Do they make this for my car? Also I see you bolted the trans mount support to the side bar and up into the floor pan. Doesnt that defeat the isolation between body and frame and cause resonation into the floor pan ? You also mentions stiffening the rear frame ,possible solution is UMI makes a brace that connected the rear shock mounting areas,bolts in across? Also they make a front frame support to go across where the front sway bar mounts? Whats your thoughts on using these? Also,lol, you couldnt still use you first aftermarket transmission cross member,that thing looked tough. Thanks for your time and advice. Tom
Thanks Thomas... congrats on already having a boxed frame. :) I'm a fan of adding support, and I've seen the rear UMI system, which I might just get. Havent' seen the front one yet. (I'm pretty sure my same kit would work for your car, but not 100% sure) No, you can't use another brace without severe mods. Bolting to the body just increases stiffness. I'm not concerned with the current rubber isolators, because they're more than 2 feet away from the bolted area. (Steel has a ton of flex in it, even from point to point 2 feet away) I'll have to look into the UMI front brace. Thanks for the comment, and questions.
70 gto front and rear umi braces . Have flex on 2 post lift. I heard it's normal. Gto nose gap gets larger then goes back when lowered. Looking to do the body on car frame boxing. The front and rear umi braces help driving and cornering.
Good job Mike.
Thanks John! Crazy amount of work. But, love the result.
It would have been cool to have done a before and after weight of the car. Any idea how many pounds were added?
Yep, I weighed it... check out the 4:20 mark. :)
Sorry. Don’t know how I missed that.
@@jeffreyurbain9604 HA! No worries, you might have yawned during my talking... ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
In your opinion, would side exit exhaust work with the frame brace, or not feasible? Thanks Mike
You know me... anything is possible. Ha, ha... but, if you're referring to side exhaust that exits in front of the rear wheel, it'll depend on your ground clearance. The additional structural tubing will make it a challenge. Let us know if you figure it out. Thanks for the comment!
Been watching all your videos. Love it. @ questions on this kit. 1st have you noticed any improvement in how the car responds? 2nd. after install how do you paint or powder coat where its boxed in or am I over thinking it? LOL
Thanks Jerry! I haven't tested it hard yet, but certainly feels well planted. I thought i covered the weld painting... I used POR 15 with a brush. Thanks for the comment!
The crossover/trans braces and mounting brackets look beefy! Are those made with 1/8th" or 1/4"? It really looks like a quality kit. 👌
Thanks Brother... yeah, I think they're 3/16"
I would have put body mount rubber between the body and the new frame stiffener.
Most people actually change out the existing rubber mounts to Delrin. Mine are relatively new, so didn't change em. Thanks.
Hi MIke, I was looking for you to possibly re-check your driveline angles when you got the tranny cross-members in place. I’m to the point of checking that on my TREMEC T-56 MAGNUM (from SilverSport Transmission) going into my ‘72 Trans Am and was wondering what angle you arrived at on your initial install?
Great question. When infirst put my TKO in, the angle was terrible. (I should have paid more attention during the tunnel cutting phase.) The TKX allowed me to push it up into the tunnel another 1/2 inch, which felt like a mile. So, it's a lot better , but far from perfect purely because my rear is super low. Sorry, not much help there. Let us know how the T/A turns out.
Do you paint the inside of the plate that boxes in the frame?
I did not... but, at least those rails are zinc coated. so, that'll help. Thanks for the comment!
Now just worry about the 50 year old body to frame bolts . They usually break upon removal . I would hate to see the frame going one way and the body going the other.
Good point, mine are only 10 years old. ha, ha... thanks!
The was about grueling yes, your resolve here is impressive!
Just know this is well appreciated all the things" you had to prepare, deal with, your love for Pontiac is top drawer!
Have a question some after market suspension pieces.
There are the heim-joint type swivel pieces (CAT5) for the leaf bushing replacement parts.
What is your take on those?
I like the idea of their dynamic control affect and mechanical stress relief they offer, yet not seen much about them from consumers reporting back .
Thanks! Yeah, heim joints are the way to go. It's exactly what I'm using for my rear suspension. I'll have to do a video summary of that, because lot's of people have been asking. When you're bored, check out Global West Suspension... thanks again!
Is that a legend 5 speed?
Almost. It's a TREMEC TKX
@@FastMonty Awesome car, great channel !!!
@@BuickPerformanceSupportCha1605 Thanks!
Newbies don’t use weld through primer between bare plates you can’t paint.
Yup! I wanted the back sides covered. I did my best to spray the POR15 prep behind there too, which leaves a nice Zinc Oxide coating, where we can't paint. Thanks!
Zink Oxide? The same stuff they tell you not to weld because it’s toxic fumes when welded on? Plus after it’s welded there’s no protection.
Sorry, Zinc Phosphate... after welding. Thanks. @@Whosurdaddy71