Hi I tried the Zoom R20 when it first hit the market and I found it horribly slow to operate, especially with the loops. Did they speed up the system on the R20 and the R12 with these updates? I am currently demoing the R4 and it seems to operate very quickly. I think they got the loops to load quick by just loading a drum kit and having them play back as midi patterns.
It's not appreciatively faster. The firmware updates have improved buggy stuff with saving tracks and improving some of the lag that you would see after recording for 3 minutes and hitting stop (you can get a spinning wheel for a few seconds). But the main thing is that the processors inside these types of budget recording devices are not exactly lighting the world on fire. They are cheap processors similar to what you would have found in some Android tablets from 8-10 years ago probably. And so some of the interactions with the touchscreen can feel laggy. They are only going to be able to do so much with software updates to improve that. That's just what you get sometimes with budget recording hardware. I haven't tried the R4 yet. Seems nice, and 32-bit recording could make some multitrack sessions easier to initially capture without worrying about clipping, but it doesn't seem to have any capability to split, cut, copy, and paste parts of recordings. Looks like you can only bounce tracks with it, really. All editing has to be done afterwards on a computer. I like the R20 and R12 because I can do some of that light editing right on the device without a computer.
Hi Gaz, thank you for keeping us posted, very useful. Have you got ahold of the Zoom R4 yet ? I ordered a few but they're still backordered. I haven't seen any vids on the rhythm track and would be interested in hearing it. Also, have you heard any updates on when these will be available ?
When it was first announced it looked like the R4 would be available in early to mid November. But that was likely the first production batch. I have to imagine another production batch would be released by early December, but that's just a guess based on what I've noticed with other Zoom devices. I did not order the R4 because it's a unit that just isn't for me. It's similar to their handy recorders, except you can bounce tracks with it's playback feature using the dedicated 4 physical faders. However, it looks like you can only really bounce tracks - I don't think you can cut copy and paste tracks or parts of tracks like you can with the multitrackers. I like to have that light editing capability on my devices. I do keep an H1n for simple stereo recordings, so I have a handy recorder of sorts. So for me, the R4 isn't quite a perfect fit for my needs.
Soo, I updated the firmware to 3.30. I had an issue when I still had the 3.0 version where I tried to duplicate a song and the message said “SD card full!”. The message came up again after I updated to 3.30. I’m like, that’s impossible - I made sure to format the 32 GB SD card, and this is the only file on there 🤷♂️ What do you make of that? Will I be able to record more onto the card? Again, to echo most of these comments, you’re the greatest Gaz - thank you for all the time you’ve spent helping us rubes out 😅
Agreed. We can only hope that they stick with it and keep pushing out improvements - hopefully with some truly new (and needed) features instead of just bug fixes.
Also, when you use the onscreen menu to get to effects, use some of the faders, or the knobs to control the effect or compression or reverb or limiting. We really need all three and could also use automation. And some sort of global view.
The R12 and R20 are very similar. The biggest differences are the sizes of the units, the sizes and functional layout of the touchscreens, and the number of inputs and tracks. But the underlying software is the same. The R12 is up to v2.3, but v2.1 and v2.3 were the same types of firmware bug fixes on both the R12 and the R20. So the underlying software is caught up and the same on both units. That means the same types of functions too, for better and for worse. And for worse...that means no loop feature between markers yet. Here's a screen comparison between the R12 and R20 so you can see how the options are selected slightly differently, but the function is basically the same: ua-cam.com/video/GKYbE-EZWWk/v-deo.html
Hi Gaz, Thank you for great videos! I’ve just purchased the R20 and I’ve connected my digital piano to it and started to record. There’s a lot of noise in the recordings when connecting channel 1 and 2 to the digital piano. Is this normal? Have you experienced this too? Or am I doing something wrong? Is there a setting that might fix this? Many thanks for taking the time!
That's probably not normal. I don't really get bad noise when I connect anything using inputs 1 and 2. I can only think of a couple things: 1) Make sure the 1/4" plugs are pushed all the way down into inputs 1 and 2. When you first put the plugs in there they will go down and like, "catch," within the female jacks, and they will transmit some sound, but it's not all the way in. It takes some pressure, but you want to make sure those plugs are all the way in. There is usually a snap sound when you push them all the way down. 2) Do you have bad cables? Do those cables work between other devices with zero noise? And what kind of cable are you running from your digital piano to the R20? Are they mono TS 1/4" L and R cables out of the piano? Or are you using a 3.5mm TRS to stereo break out cable that runs to mono TS L and R plugs? Don't plug TRS plugs into the R20's mono inputs 1 and 2. 3) What are your levels like? I don't like to push the gain on the R20 past 70 or 80%. So you want to have a good signal out of the digital piano into the R20. The lower you can keep the R20 gain, but still keep the sound around -12 to -8db the better. If you are using headphone out from the piano to the R20, I recommend raising the volume on the headphone out of the piano and lowering the gain on the R20. 4) Are you getting buzz on all the R20 inputs? Or even when nothing is plugged in? That suggests the power plug for the R20 is either bad, or it's plugged into a outlet or power strip that has a lot of interference. 4) If there is a mild buzz after checking the above, you can apply a noise gate to the track. In track settings you can pick between a compressor, limiter, or noise gate. Try the noise gate to clean up any low, low level remaining buzz. Hope that helps...good luck!
@@GazRendar Thank you very much for the reply. I’ve dome all that but it still is quite some noise when plugging it in to my digital piano. But thank you for taking the time!
I just did this update yesterday and it killed the sound from my Midi Keyboard. Anyone else having this issue? I did get the drum loops to change in tempo now but no sound from the keyboard. Hmmm...
Hallo Gaz, Since the new firmware update 3.1: When I start a new 2nd recording within a project, the 1st one is now overwritten etc. What do I have to do to undo this?
It kind of depends on how you recorded it and how it was saved. In general, if I'm going to re-record a lot of tracks, I tend to copy the entire project as a backup, and then proceed to re-record new tracks. I made a video that describes how I do some of my saving/backing up: ua-cam.com/video/JLi4zeggbq4/v-deo.html And I assume you mean that you recorded like a guitar on Track 1. And then bass on Track 2. And then you went back and re-recorded a new guitar take on Track 1 again. So what you hear will be the second take of guitar. If you have open tracks, I recommend recording that second take of the guitar on like, Track 9. Then when you know for sure which one you are going to keep, delete either the guitar on Track 1 or the guitar on Track 9. If you were overwriting certain tracks, like guitar on Track 1 multiple times, you might be able to take the SD card out and pop it into your computer. Within the file for that particular project you might see Track01_001 or Track01_002 that designates different takes on the same track. However, sometimes you lose those different takes if you changed the track from mono to stereo or vice versa. But that would allow you to go back to Track01_001, that first take, and re-import it into your project so you can get that first take of your guitar again. I hope that addresses your question.
You can't figure out how to do it because there is no digital way to do it, unfortunately. At least not on version 3.3. I use some lame work-arounds for this problem, but it depends on what your stereo track sounds like. If I record from certain synths or instruments that don't really have stereo panning effects (like a Pocket Operator), I can record those as stereo outputs from the instruments into the R20, but in reality they are mostly just the same mono sounds on the left and right sides. In that case, say Tracks 7&8 are stereo linked from a Pocket Operator recording. I can then go into the track settings for 7&8 and choose to pan the sound all the way to the left. Then run a 1/4" to a 1/4" cable from the monitor out Left into Input #1. Arm Track 1 for recording, but in the Track 1 settings, pan it all the way to the right. Set the faders on 7&8 as well as Track 1 to 0db. Use the headphone out to monitor the sounds. Mute any other tracks that have audio on them. Hit Play and set the gain on Input 1 so that the level of Track 1 roughly matches the level on 7&8. When you have the levels set, go back to the beginning of your song and now hit record and just let it record a mono track 1. After recording go back and test out Track 1 to see if it sounds ok. If it does, and if you need to free up the track 7&8, you can go back and delete 7&8 (maybe duplicate your project first before you delete 7&8 so you have a back up). When you are done go back and re-set the pan on Track 1 to the center. If your recorded Tracks 7&8 have stereo panning sounds, you can mute all other tracks and run two 1/4" to 1/4" cables from the monitor out to Inputs 1 and 2. Don't stereo link tracks 1 and 2. Just to the same thing and essentially re-record them in mono. Finally, think about how you want to record your instruments ahead of time. You can often record everything as mono tracks and set your own panning levels in the Track settings for full control during the mix down stage. Unless the instrument I'm using has significant stereo panning effects going into the R20, I usually record tracks as mono.
@@GazRendar Thanks for the comprehensive reply! My situation is I want to use one effect on one track, and then a different effect on another track - but you can't do that either. My initial track recording is mono, I apply the effect, and then render it out & import it back but that render process creates a stereo track, which I don't want, as it wastes a channel. I want it back as mono. I'll give your suggestion a try. Thanks again!
Ah, I got it. So yeah, if you recorded a track in mono (say rhythm guitar), then you can apply a send effect to just that track, pan it to the left, route it from the left out to Input 1 onto Track 1, pan Track 1 all the way to the right, adjust your levels, and hit record. Then you can go back and delete the dry track that doesn't have any effects. Additionally, if you absolutely know ahead of time what effect you want to apply to an instrument (say, a specific distortion patch on a guitar), you can apply the effect as an insert effect during recording so your guitar is recorded with the effect imprinted on it for that mono track.
Completely agree. At the very least I'd like to see a grand piano sound, a violin, and maybe a string quartet. Grant me that little request and I'll be happy.
That's all true, and if those features are good for your workflow, then your device works for you. None of the budget multitrackers that are out there are perfect. They all have their strengths and weaknesses. In my opinion, the 15+ year old DP-008EX sounds a little rough when you are using 5 or more tracks because it's only 16-bit. It's a bigger challenge to record parts of songs with sweeping dynamics between multiple instruments.
@@GazRendar true regarding the 16bit but these machines are meant to record demos...not having a simple thing as a foot switch or auto-punch is a no-no for me when quickly putting something together. What I also love about the 008 is the fact that I can quickly adjust reverb send without first having to tap through menu pages.
It would be nice...and would serve another large group of users...but sadly, I haven't seen Zoom discuss the prospect of Android apps for the R20 or R12 in any of their press material. I have to say, it's not likely that's in the pipeline.
Well, that all depends on the subjective quality you are talking about. For starters, CDs are written with 16-bit / 44.1kHz depth and sample rates. The R20 records at 24-bit / 44.1kHz sample rates. So it has the analog to digital conversation rates to do better than CD quality sound. But you also have to take into your account everything else that goes into recording. The R20 goes for $450 retail and you can find it on sale for $350 sometimes. A professional recording studio will have plenty of mics that cost $350 or better. They will usually run everything through a mixing board that costs over $3k (at minimum) to a computer that costs $3k running the high-end producer version of any DAW software (several hundred dollars). After recording with expensive mics and amps and instruments, a professional sound engineer will spend a ton of time crafting a perfect mix and mastering your tracks into well-rounded songs. I can imagine that a single Taylor Swift song or Weeknd song relies on $100k worth of equipment make. So...just keep that in mind if you buy the R20 on sale for $350. With all that said, you can make tight, clean songs on the R20. But besides the R20, that depends on your skill level recording and what kind of instruments and mics you are using. You have built in effects on the R20 and you can master everything right on that device, but it is not as powerful as a $700 DAW on a $2k laptop. But the R20 is a fine budget device to learn the art of sound recording. It can help you record tracks, but also short audio regions or patterns, and the touchscreen can help you stack and move those regions around to help you build verse-chorus-verse-chorus-bridge constructions to your songs. If you are a guitar player/singer it can help you go from jamming and comming up with a song that you play on your acoustic guitar and turn it into polish sections that you can build your recorded song from. It helps you think like a sound engineer instead of just a singer/songwriter. And if you get good at your planning and layout, have a decent mic or two, you can definitely record some good to nearly great quality stuff. Just know that like with anything, it takes time to get good at it.
Thank you for doing these videos on the R20. I am a beginner, and these videos are incredibly helpful.
Great to hear that the R20 videos are helping. That's why I make them. Thanks for the feedback and happy recording!
You've got the best intro music Gaz..
Ha...thanks!
Hi I tried the Zoom R20 when it first hit the market and I found it horribly slow to operate, especially with the loops. Did they speed up the system on the R20 and the R12 with these updates? I am currently demoing the R4 and it seems to operate very quickly. I think they got the loops to load quick by just loading a drum kit and having them play back as midi patterns.
It's not appreciatively faster. The firmware updates have improved buggy stuff with saving tracks and improving some of the lag that you would see after recording for 3 minutes and hitting stop (you can get a spinning wheel for a few seconds). But the main thing is that the processors inside these types of budget recording devices are not exactly lighting the world on fire. They are cheap processors similar to what you would have found in some Android tablets from 8-10 years ago probably. And so some of the interactions with the touchscreen can feel laggy. They are only going to be able to do so much with software updates to improve that. That's just what you get sometimes with budget recording hardware.
I haven't tried the R4 yet. Seems nice, and 32-bit recording could make some multitrack sessions easier to initially capture without worrying about clipping, but it doesn't seem to have any capability to split, cut, copy, and paste parts of recordings. Looks like you can only bounce tracks with it, really. All editing has to be done afterwards on a computer. I like the R20 and R12 because I can do some of that light editing right on the device without a computer.
Hi Gaz, thank you for keeping us posted, very useful. Have you got ahold of the Zoom R4 yet ? I ordered a few but they're still backordered. I haven't seen any vids on the rhythm track and would be interested in hearing it. Also, have you heard any updates on when these will be available ?
When it was first announced it looked like the R4 would be available in early to mid November. But that was likely the first production batch. I have to imagine another production batch would be released by early December, but that's just a guess based on what I've noticed with other Zoom devices.
I did not order the R4 because it's a unit that just isn't for me. It's similar to their handy recorders, except you can bounce tracks with it's playback feature using the dedicated 4 physical faders. However, it looks like you can only really bounce tracks - I don't think you can cut copy and paste tracks or parts of tracks like you can with the multitrackers. I like to have that light editing capability on my devices. I do keep an H1n for simple stereo recordings, so I have a handy recorder of sorts. So for me, the R4 isn't quite a perfect fit for my needs.
Pinch in and out and track naming are my two biggies.
No argument from me on those. Hoping a v4.0 gives us some of those features....
Soo, I updated the firmware to 3.30. I had an issue when I still had the 3.0 version where I tried to duplicate a song and the message said “SD card full!”. The message came up again after I updated to 3.30. I’m like, that’s impossible - I made sure to format the 32 GB SD card, and this is the only file on there 🤷♂️ What do you make of that? Will I be able to record more onto the card? Again, to echo most of these comments, you’re the greatest Gaz - thank you for all the time you’ve spent helping us rubes out 😅
Well I guess they haven’t abandoned the unit yet. Hopefully 4.0 is around the corner with a lot of our wish list improvements.
Agreed. We can only hope that they stick with it and keep pushing out improvements - hopefully with some truly new (and needed) features instead of just bug fixes.
Wow how awesome! We need visual effect knobs for each track in the master chain.
Also, when you use the onscreen menu to get to effects, use some of the faders, or the knobs to control the effect or compression or reverb or limiting. We really need all three and could also use automation. And some sort of global view.
that is some hope for new uptade this year?
How does this compare with the r12. Does that one let you loop between markers?
The R12 and R20 are very similar. The biggest differences are the sizes of the units, the sizes and functional layout of the touchscreens, and the number of inputs and tracks. But the underlying software is the same. The R12 is up to v2.3, but v2.1 and v2.3 were the same types of firmware bug fixes on both the R12 and the R20. So the underlying software is caught up and the same on both units. That means the same types of functions too, for better and for worse. And for worse...that means no loop feature between markers yet.
Here's a screen comparison between the R12 and R20 so you can see how the options are selected slightly differently, but the function is basically the same:
ua-cam.com/video/GKYbE-EZWWk/v-deo.html
Hi Gaz,
Thank you for great videos!
I’ve just purchased the R20 and I’ve connected my digital piano to it and started to record. There’s a lot of noise in the recordings when connecting channel 1 and 2 to the digital piano. Is this normal? Have you experienced this too? Or am I doing something wrong? Is there a setting that might fix this?
Many thanks for taking the time!
That's probably not normal. I don't really get bad noise when I connect anything using inputs 1 and 2. I can only think of a couple things:
1) Make sure the 1/4" plugs are pushed all the way down into inputs 1 and 2. When you first put the plugs in there they will go down and like, "catch," within the female jacks, and they will transmit some sound, but it's not all the way in. It takes some pressure, but you want to make sure those plugs are all the way in. There is usually a snap sound when you push them all the way down.
2) Do you have bad cables? Do those cables work between other devices with zero noise? And what kind of cable are you running from your digital piano to the R20? Are they mono TS 1/4" L and R cables out of the piano? Or are you using a 3.5mm TRS to stereo break out cable that runs to mono TS L and R plugs? Don't plug TRS plugs into the R20's mono inputs 1 and 2.
3) What are your levels like? I don't like to push the gain on the R20 past 70 or 80%. So you want to have a good signal out of the digital piano into the R20. The lower you can keep the R20 gain, but still keep the sound around -12 to -8db the better. If you are using headphone out from the piano to the R20, I recommend raising the volume on the headphone out of the piano and lowering the gain on the R20.
4) Are you getting buzz on all the R20 inputs? Or even when nothing is plugged in? That suggests the power plug for the R20 is either bad, or it's plugged into a outlet or power strip that has a lot of interference.
4) If there is a mild buzz after checking the above, you can apply a noise gate to the track. In track settings you can pick between a compressor, limiter, or noise gate. Try the noise gate to clean up any low, low level remaining buzz.
Hope that helps...good luck!
Oh, the other thing to check is to make sure the Hi-Z switch is off...
@@GazRendar Thank you very much for the reply. I’ve dome all that but it still is quite some noise when plugging it in to my digital piano.
But thank you for taking the time!
I just did this update yesterday and it killed the sound from my Midi Keyboard. Anyone else having this issue? I did get the drum loops to change in tempo now but no sound from the keyboard. Hmmm...
Hallo Gaz, Since the new firmware update 3.1:
When I start a new 2nd recording within a project, the 1st one is now overwritten etc. What do I have to do to undo this?
It kind of depends on how you recorded it and how it was saved. In general, if I'm going to re-record a lot of tracks, I tend to copy the entire project as a backup, and then proceed to re-record new tracks. I made a video that describes how I do some of my saving/backing up:
ua-cam.com/video/JLi4zeggbq4/v-deo.html
And I assume you mean that you recorded like a guitar on Track 1. And then bass on Track 2. And then you went back and re-recorded a new guitar take on Track 1 again. So what you hear will be the second take of guitar. If you have open tracks, I recommend recording that second take of the guitar on like, Track 9. Then when you know for sure which one you are going to keep, delete either the guitar on Track 1 or the guitar on Track 9.
If you were overwriting certain tracks, like guitar on Track 1 multiple times, you might be able to take the SD card out and pop it into your computer. Within the file for that particular project you might see Track01_001 or Track01_002 that designates different takes on the same track. However, sometimes you lose those different takes if you changed the track from mono to stereo or vice versa. But that would allow you to go back to Track01_001, that first take, and re-import it into your project so you can get that first take of your guitar again.
I hope that addresses your question.
Hi Gaz, is it possible to convert a stereo track to a mono one on the R20? I have not been able to figure out how to do this...
You can't figure out how to do it because there is no digital way to do it, unfortunately. At least not on version 3.3.
I use some lame work-arounds for this problem, but it depends on what your stereo track sounds like. If I record from certain synths or instruments that don't really have stereo panning effects (like a Pocket Operator), I can record those as stereo outputs from the instruments into the R20, but in reality they are mostly just the same mono sounds on the left and right sides. In that case, say Tracks 7&8 are stereo linked from a Pocket Operator recording. I can then go into the track settings for 7&8 and choose to pan the sound all the way to the left. Then run a 1/4" to a 1/4" cable from the monitor out Left into Input #1. Arm Track 1 for recording, but in the Track 1 settings, pan it all the way to the right. Set the faders on 7&8 as well as Track 1 to 0db. Use the headphone out to monitor the sounds. Mute any other tracks that have audio on them. Hit Play and set the gain on Input 1 so that the level of Track 1 roughly matches the level on 7&8. When you have the levels set, go back to the beginning of your song and now hit record and just let it record a mono track 1. After recording go back and test out Track 1 to see if it sounds ok. If it does, and if you need to free up the track 7&8, you can go back and delete 7&8 (maybe duplicate your project first before you delete 7&8 so you have a back up). When you are done go back and re-set the pan on Track 1 to the center.
If your recorded Tracks 7&8 have stereo panning sounds, you can mute all other tracks and run two 1/4" to 1/4" cables from the monitor out to Inputs 1 and 2. Don't stereo link tracks 1 and 2. Just to the same thing and essentially re-record them in mono.
Finally, think about how you want to record your instruments ahead of time. You can often record everything as mono tracks and set your own panning levels in the Track settings for full control during the mix down stage. Unless the instrument I'm using has significant stereo panning effects going into the R20, I usually record tracks as mono.
@@GazRendar Thanks for the comprehensive reply! My situation is I want to use one effect on one track, and then a different effect on another track - but you can't do that either. My initial track recording is mono, I apply the effect, and then render it out & import it back but that render process creates a stereo track, which I don't want, as it wastes a channel. I want it back as mono. I'll give your suggestion a try. Thanks again!
Ah, I got it. So yeah, if you recorded a track in mono (say rhythm guitar), then you can apply a send effect to just that track, pan it to the left, route it from the left out to Input 1 onto Track 1, pan Track 1 all the way to the right, adjust your levels, and hit record. Then you can go back and delete the dry track that doesn't have any effects.
Additionally, if you absolutely know ahead of time what effect you want to apply to an instrument (say, a specific distortion patch on a guitar), you can apply the effect as an insert effect during recording so your guitar is recorded with the effect imprinted on it for that mono track.
More synth sounds would also be nice.
Completely agree. At the very least I'd like to see a grand piano sound, a violin, and maybe a string quartet. Grant me that little request and I'll be happy.
Can you Please Please Please do an episode on using it as Interface/Daw Controller. I’m Dying here in 2023.
My antique Tascam DP-008EX can do automated punch in/out, loop, mastering fx and has a footswitch port. Without all this, to me the R20 is a fail.
That's all true, and if those features are good for your workflow, then your device works for you. None of the budget multitrackers that are out there are perfect. They all have their strengths and weaknesses. In my opinion, the 15+ year old DP-008EX sounds a little rough when you are using 5 or more tracks because it's only 16-bit. It's a bigger challenge to record parts of songs with sweeping dynamics between multiple instruments.
@@GazRendar true regarding the 16bit but these machines are meant to record demos...not having a simple thing as a foot switch or auto-punch is a no-no for me when quickly putting something together. What I also love about the 008 is the fact that I can quickly adjust reverb send without first having to tap through menu pages.
do you have to download each update before this as well or can you go from 1.0 to 3.3 and be up to date?
You go from 1.0 straight to 3.3
Bluetooth for android would be handy
It would be nice...and would serve another large group of users...but sadly, I haven't seen Zoom discuss the prospect of Android apps for the R20 or R12 in any of their press material. I have to say, it's not likely that's in the pipeline.
And all GM Sounds must be possible! And good Drums instead of Metronome!
Can I actually record a good enough song that can be put on a cd and sound like a real recording studio ?? Thanks for this video !
Well, that all depends on the subjective quality you are talking about. For starters, CDs are written with 16-bit / 44.1kHz depth and sample rates. The R20 records at 24-bit / 44.1kHz sample rates. So it has the analog to digital conversation rates to do better than CD quality sound.
But you also have to take into your account everything else that goes into recording. The R20 goes for $450 retail and you can find it on sale for $350 sometimes. A professional recording studio will have plenty of mics that cost $350 or better. They will usually run everything through a mixing board that costs over $3k (at minimum) to a computer that costs $3k running the high-end producer version of any DAW software (several hundred dollars). After recording with expensive mics and amps and instruments, a professional sound engineer will spend a ton of time crafting a perfect mix and mastering your tracks into well-rounded songs. I can imagine that a single Taylor Swift song or Weeknd song relies on $100k worth of equipment make. So...just keep that in mind if you buy the R20 on sale for $350.
With all that said, you can make tight, clean songs on the R20. But besides the R20, that depends on your skill level recording and what kind of instruments and mics you are using. You have built in effects on the R20 and you can master everything right on that device, but it is not as powerful as a $700 DAW on a $2k laptop. But the R20 is a fine budget device to learn the art of sound recording. It can help you record tracks, but also short audio regions or patterns, and the touchscreen can help you stack and move those regions around to help you build verse-chorus-verse-chorus-bridge constructions to your songs. If you are a guitar player/singer it can help you go from jamming and comming up with a song that you play on your acoustic guitar and turn it into polish sections that you can build your recorded song from. It helps you think like a sound engineer instead of just a singer/songwriter. And if you get good at your planning and layout, have a decent mic or two, you can definitely record some good to nearly great quality stuff. Just know that like with anything, it takes time to get good at it.
@@GazRendar thank you very much !!
great mixer but sound quality is poor