What, you think professional TV shows with that stuff in it are "crap"? What would have been "wrong" with the narrator showing himself? What's the matter with a little music if it doesn't get in the way of anything? What would be so "bad" about a video effect if it helped illustrate the point? Duhhhhrrr...
@@KekusMagnus: No it wouldn't. Music at a low volume under the narration doesn't take extra time to listen to. If there was an occasional dissolve or other type of transition from one setup or scene to the next, any little bit of extra time to do that over a cut is negligible. And if there was a 3D graphic of this gearbox setup that served as an exploded view or a cutaway, etc., that could only make it even more clear. But besides that, you're not the person I was asking, so I'm really looking to see what the OP says in response.
I installed a 1988 40 hp Johnson myself, cables, everything. I had forward drive issues and was going to tear into. Thank God I watched your video. You were 100% right. I heard a clunk and it wouldn't engage, but reverse was fine. I ended up adjusting the cables over the course of a few trial runs and now it's perfect. Thank you man!!!
this image brings back many memories. My father had a side business doing outboard motor repair during the 60's through 80's. I was in grade school when I was taught how to "Split the Lower Unit", and replace the rubber tubular gasket and rear seal. It is a good idea to check the condition of the lower unit lube when considering a used outboard or even inboard I/O Drive. if fishing line gets wrapped around the prop shaft between the seal and prop it can destroy the seal, also early OMC "Split Case" lower units can have dried out gasket between the upper and lower halves. In either case the lower unit will have water penetration turning the heavy weight lube to a "Thin Milky Consistency". Unfortunately if kept in this condition for an extended period of time the internal bearings, gears, drive shaft, shift fork, and clutch cog will become rusted, sometimes seriously pitting the metal, and locking the lower unit in neutral/forward or reverse. it is always advisable to service the lower unit by checking the condition of the lube, draining by removing the upper and lower drain plugs allowing all the old lube to drain. Then using the recommended lower unit lube fill from the lower drain hole, until it comes up to/out the top drain hole. Then install the top plug with the tube or pump hose nozzle of the lube still in the lower hole, and quickly remove it and install the lower plug Installing the upper plug should create a "Vacuum" as the lube tries to drain when following up by installing the lower plug. There are also nylon or sometimes rubber washers or O-Rings on these plugs and should also be replaced when servicing. The key is to not allow any water to enter the lower unit which can cause serious damage. This appears to be a very old (1960's) OMC (Outboard Marine Company: Johnson/Evinrude) "Spit-case" lower unit. Later Outboard motors and Inboard I/O Drives are "One Piece" and not split. The internals must be serviced/repaired by removing the prop and rear bearing carrier. Mercury/Mariner Outboard Motors and Outdrives require specialized tools to disassemble/reassemble. Also Bearing preloads must be set to specific values. Motors used seasonally or in salt water should be flushed with a hose/fresh water and a "cupped headset" type attachment or bolt-on water intake plate on some models. To "winterize" this should be accomplished and the motor ran until all the gas is run out of the carb(s) there is also a "Spray Fogger" which can be sprayed in the throat(s) of the carbs during this process. Also fuel stabilizer should be added during this process to protect the fuel system from corrosion. Run the motor with the fuel line disconnected until all the fuel is ran through. Also either add the proper amount for fuel stabilizer to the tank, or drain completely if it will be unused for a longer period of time. This 'Prevention" can save on serious fuel system issues later on when the motor is returned to operation. Another common problem is the "Water Pump Impeller". a rubber bladed/spoked component which is contained in the Water Pump Housing at the top of the lower unit, driven by the drive shaft. it is "Offset" in the housing creating voids between the blades which cycle from larger to small during rotation causing the water to be pressurized and pumped up through the powerhead or inboard motor. these become dried and brittle especially in stored in hot environments, and degrade over time. If the motor no longer pumps cooling water upwards the the Impeller blades are worn, or may even be separated completely. These require a tight seal within the Impeller Housing (Sides/Top & Bottom), to operate properly. Also if they are removed to check the condition and reused then they MUST BE REINSTALLED the same orientation as they came out of prior or the blades will be bent in the opposite direction causing complete failure when they are turned by the drive shaft. They must all bend in the same direction as determined by the powerheads driveshaft direction. On motors of this vintage and even newer, generally to replace them a new "Impeller Kit" needs to be purchased which generally included the impeller, top and bottom plates, and a "Half Moon" or other type of key to drive the Impeller with the driveshaft. Generically you must access the shift rod coupler (typically located on the upper part of the lower unit leg below the powerhead, and behind an access plate on the side) This connection couples the Shift Lever to the Shift Rod going down to the lower unit. then all the bolts are removed which attach the Lower Unit to The Leg. Generally the drive shaft is splined and will come out of the bottom of the Crank Shaft in the Power Head. With all the lower unit bolts removed, Shift Rod Coupler disconnected the Lower unit should "Drop" down and can be removed. Typically the outboard motor must be tilted up to allow clearance to get the Drive Shaft and Shift Rod out of the Leg Housing. Once removed the Impeller Housing should be visible on the top of the Lower Unit allowing removal of the bolts securing the Water Pump/Impeller Housing and the housing itself. The new "Impeller Kit" can then be installed replacing the worn or damaged components. The Impeller should be lubricated as directed in the included instructions, or Motor's Service Manual during installation. It's typically best to replace the Impeller Components even if they look serviceable as it is now all accessible. This small price of prevention can save on catastrophic power head failure if the Impeller fails and the Power Head overheats. The reassembly is just a reverse process of removal, but care should be taken to not damage the top splines of the drive shaft or powerhead crank shaft. feeding the drive shaft and shift rod up the leg and into place can be challenging sometimes, and may require moving the shift lever forward or reverse to get the coupler connected DONT DROP THE BOLT! Also you may need to rotate the flywheel on the powerhead to get the splines to line up. Patience here can save many headaches. Never rotate the drive shaft from the power head in the reverse direction as this can cause some or all of the blades on the impeller to bend the wrong direction. Though this is generalized many outboards use a similar water pump system. Larger Inboard/Outboard motors may be much more involved to access the Water Pump Housing and components as the Outdrive must pivot to raise and lower the Outdrive, and are driven horizontally from the Inboard motor to the pivot point and then down to the Lower Unit Housing. And like I said may require very specialized tools sold by Mercury and OMC or other manufacturers, specific for the application used. I know this was a long winded Comment, but hopefully someone may get some use out of it, especially if the water pump stops pumping and you may wonder why. Blockage is also a possibility within the Water Passages, especially if the motor operates in a salt water environment and isn't properly flushed after operation. Also NEVER RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT A WATER SUPPLY! Serious damage to the Impeller, or over heating the power head likely will occur... Also these steps should be done "On Land", Watching a bolt or other component sink to the bottom of the lake can be horrifying!
I was an OMC/Evinrude/Johnson Master Technician. You're right that people don't understand this. But you really didn't explain half of it. First, the "clutch" as you call it has teeth ("dogs") that interlock with teeth on the gears to lock one or the other gear to the center splined shaft. And second that failure to engage those fully (bad adjustment) and with some firmness creates that "clunking" sound going into gear and can wear the dogs until their mating edges become rounded, and then the engine easily jumps OUT of gear. Glad you added "part 2" so people can see the faces of the clutch and gears!
Thanks for adding additional info; yes "Part 2" goes more in-depth and I have a few other videos I recommend checking out showing the driveshaft / props haft / etc. very clearly.
This video was so well done that I feel like an expert on something I have never seen or heard of before until now. What you describe makes total sense and after reading through comments you have helped several. Nicely done! Subbed because this was so very informative!
I almost (ALMOST) feel like I could explain it to someone else now, and as the old saying goes, that's when you really understand something: when you can teach the concept to another person.
The video is great, I had no idea how the gear shift works. Without music and without noise, work that has cleared many of us who are here of many doubts. Thank you !!
When we raced outboards,we removed the reverse gear for better holeshot.Seemed to help,need every advantage you can think of when racing.😉 Excellent video,thanks for your time.
The Key here is that there is actually NO friction material, it is a solid metal dog on a solid metal gear and THAT is why you never slowly ease a boat into gear, you just pop it in or out as fast as possible so you are not banging the dogs on the gear and beating them to death.
I do videos on my channel to try and help people with certain things. Kind of a "pay it forward" type deal. Thanks for posting this. Excellent visual and explanation of this! On point, clear and concise. 5 years later people like me are just finding your video!
When putting drive shaft back in the lower unit on my 35hp Johnson do I need to release the oil pressure because it feels as if something is pushing it back up.
@@renegademind1833: No they're not. You don't know what you're talking about. You've never seen any show like How It's Made or MythBusters or This Old House that get their demonstration points across even though they have music and plenty of talking, which talking they need to have in order to make their points?
Very interesting. Just one small point, that part is not a clutch, it's a gear selector. In this case a forward and reverse gear selector. Thanks for posting.
Even as a kid this was not hard to figure out. What did baffle me is how you can suddenly engage the gears--teeth to teeth--at high speeds without complete mayhem.
Well done, a very clear, crisp explanation. Yes, it does not look difficult, but man, those gear parts are horrifically expensive. Much more than an entire good used power head or complete lower unit, for most engines.
Great explanation of what has always been a mysterious mechanical system to me. I appreciate the brevity of the video and the simplicity of your model. Very, very well done! Cheers. 😎
Thank you, I'm pretty well versed in all small engine repair, except lower unit stuff on boat motors. I've never done much more than a sheer pins and fluid. My Mercury 115 won't engage in reverse 99% of the time. Appreciate you taking the time to post.
Another you tube fact that I never even knew I needed to know, but will now be forever thankful that I do. As you say so single, never even thought that it all happened down in the bottom of the leg, always assumed the transmission was up the top under the motor with a right angle bevel drive at the bottom.
When have you ever supposedly seen a video where somebody was like, "Congratulations to me..." etc., other than something like maybe thanking their viewers for certain milestones?
Good demonstration and explanation about 20 years ago I restored a Wooden Chris Craft Cabin Cruiser i had to pull a blown motor and replace it when I got it out I hauled the Paragon transmission home with me to do a visual inspection on my workbench I had a lot of fun spinning it and shifting to make sure it was worthy of installing in the vessel with a new motor its funny because. I ran into a old timer boat repairman and restoration guy who told me he had a guy that could get any parts I might need and I asked him if I should have it rebuilt by that shop the guy laughed at me and said if you think it’s working correctly put it back in the boat those old ones run forever save your money ive sold that boat and still see it around to the best of my knowledge it’s still performing in her original spot made to a “new 283 Chevy small block raw water cooled motor painted Chris Craft Blue like it was inn1964
Glad to see a video on this topic but somewhat incomplete description, leaving the viewer to work out that the two pairs of pegs on one of the clutch components have to engage in recesses in either forward or reverse gear rings. Or so it would appear. Closer inspection with the camera would have helped.
Brilliant information, my engine wasn’t going forward, just into neutral and reverse, took the gearbox apart n fixed what I thought was the problem but after assembling it back it now goes into neutral and forward but not reverse 😅
Lol I hate videos where people just ramble about useless stuff, this was great & I'm amazing by how this works. Thinking about it in m yhead I thought it would be some complex difficult to understand mechanism but this is genius.
I bought a 1976 Evinrude mounted on a 76 VIP. It's a stick steer. I have broken two plastic cables ends that are attached to the gear shift handle when putting in forward. Obviously, something needs to be calibrated. Learning as I go...
A long time ago my dad's boat with an Evinrude motor would not reverse in the water. Took it to a boat shop and the guy told him he needed a new transmission. Wanting to charge a few grand.
Thanks for posting this up. Now I know what was the issue with that motor. It has stayed in the back of my head all these years. I will show this vid to my dad.
I had a friend who bought a boat years back and I believe reverse gear quit working. She took it to a shop and they wanted to rebuild the entire gearbox. I told her have someone who knows what they're doing check and make sure the linkage is adjusted properly. Linkage adjustment from the remote control as well as adjustment on the motor itself. It turns out that was the only thing that was wrong with it. It probably took no more than 20 minutes to adjust it.
GREAT video...so many people think the drive shaft SWITCHES direction in reverse. That would mean the ENGINE would, all of a sudden, switch direction WHILE RUNNING....not to likely.
Think about it as a car's rear differential. Here there is one gear that is responsible for the propulsion. In a car power is transmitted to 2 gears so that it is evenly distributed to both wheels. A cars differential gear connected to the wheel have their own clutch to control power to the wheel. It helps when one wheel is stuck in the mud power is transmitted to the other wheel so that traction can be established.
Its crazy how different yet so similar. Autos, Boats, planes. They have all adopted something from the others. Even if its just simple rivets, to engine tech. ENGINEERING=❤😍
Yes it is, but at least now we know to callibrate our shift rods if we are having trouble shifting into forward or reverse with our outboard boat motors 👍
It is fascinating how many people get here just to hate everything. I feel sorry for all of these thumbs-down people. For this guy...Yes...practical, simple, necessary to understand the principle of this 90 degree conversion.
Thanks. I always wondered why it sounds like I'm destroying my very expensive outdrive a little more each time I shift in to forward or reverse. I did not realize that the two vertical gears always spin and that both are always meshed with the horizontal gear. I now understand that when the lever at the bottom gets pushed down by the mechanical linkage between it and the pilot's throttle lever, the rear horizontal (forward) gear starts taking power from the engine and transfers it to the prop, and the front horizontal gear just spins freely on the prop drive shaft, and vice versa for reverse. (I may have forward and reverse backwards here, but that's not important for understanding this.) And of course when the throttle lever is in neutral (the lever in your exhibit is not up or down, but in the middle of that range of movement) both vertical gears just spin and no engine power is transferred from the horizontal gear to the prop drive shaft. Now my question is 'HOW does the 'clutch dog' (as someone in a comment called it) work? That's where the magic happens. I call it 'magic' because we can only see that the 'clutch dog' gets slid forward and rearward by the little lever. We can't see what is actually happening. (Is the prop drive shaft actually split where the clutch dog is? I know the splines must have something to do with it.) How this works is actually not 'beyond simple'. It appears simple at first but you left out the magic part. I really appreciate this video, because this will help me and zillions of boaters understand why they need to not be shy about engaging forward or reverse quickly. I know often I have to fight the urge to be slow when I start hearing those gears start to mesh. Please bring it on home and explain how the 'clutch dog' works so I don't have to take my outdrive apart to figure it out.
I just got it. Watching what was moving and not while you were turning the prop in neutral, and then turning the vertical shaft in neutral, made it click. Those 'ears' in the clutch dog must take a beating. Not really a clutch like in a car at all. Would be cool to see a close up of the 'clutch dog' engaging the forward (or reverse ) gear. Thanks for the video!! So glad to know that the actual gears are not what's making that 'grinding' sound when shifting in to forward or reverse. Now get that thing off your kitchen table before your wife catches you!
How to run a gear box. First step don't switch gears unless absolutely required. Usually look the traffic and terrains and curves to make decisions forehand. Neutral is a necessary before stop to gauge slopes.
Thanks....finally found a video where someone actually took one apart and showed how it worked versus just people telling how it works and using drawings that weren't that clear.
i once got a motor that kept jumping out of forward gear, i found the dog edges on the splined center slider were rounded over. i took the slider and the two gears off the prop shaft and turned the over a put them back together, now the dogs were engaging on the the other face that was not damaged, so now the gears would stay engaged and power like normal. only cost some gear lube to repair.
The centre selector is permanently engaged to the propeller shaft which is in neutral when in the middle , when shifted either left or right , those knobs on the selector lock into the gear on either the right or left within about half a turn , i think in the old days this style of engagement would have been called a dog clutch in that it has no smooth engagement , once the locating teeth/pins on the selector have meshed , it is locked into gear with a bang , however because the prop is in water for the engagement , wear is minimal . It essentially has no soft engagement friction clutch as you would find in your car or bike . That is the best i can describe it , hope that helps .
That's a great video, and it will be for a. Long Time, this is the type of information people pay a lot of money to see in a manual but you have broaden the learning process to get people to learn not to be so dramatic in a failed day at lake. More poeple know if they watched this video,"Hey maybe you didn't ruin your expensive complicated outboard you should check out the link adjustment before unassembeling the painstakingly awkward to work on part of the outboard that doesn't even need fixed.
It’s simple and it works. That’s why it’s been used for 50+ years! I’m waiting for some engineer to think he can do it with electromagnetic clutches and brakes lol
Clear, concise, no music, no video or audio effects, reasonably steady camera, and best of all, no selfi-cam. Thank you.
What, you think professional TV shows with that stuff in it are "crap"? What would have been "wrong" with the narrator showing himself? What's the matter with a little music if it doesn't get in the way of anything? What would be so "bad" about a video effect if it helped illustrate the point? Duhhhhrrr...
@@HelloKittyFanMan it would waste my time
@@KekusMagnus: No it wouldn't. Music at a low volume under the narration doesn't take extra time to listen to. If there was an occasional dissolve or other type of transition from one setup or scene to the next, any little bit of extra time to do that over a cut is negligible. And if there was a 3D graphic of this gearbox setup that served as an exploded view or a cutaway, etc., that could only make it even more clear. But besides that, you're not the person I was asking, so I'm really looking to see what the OP says in response.
💯
GREAT TEACHER!
I installed a 1988 40 hp Johnson myself, cables, everything. I had forward drive issues and was going to tear into. Thank God I watched your video. You were 100% right. I heard a clunk and it wouldn't engage, but reverse was fine. I ended up adjusting the cables over the course of a few trial runs and now it's perfect. Thank you man!!!
this image brings back many memories. My father had a side business doing outboard motor repair during the 60's through 80's. I was in grade school when I was taught how to "Split the Lower Unit", and replace the rubber tubular gasket and rear seal. It is a good idea to check the condition of the lower unit lube when considering a used outboard or even inboard I/O Drive. if fishing line gets wrapped around the prop shaft between the seal and prop it can destroy the seal, also early OMC "Split Case" lower units can have dried out gasket between the upper and lower halves. In either case the lower unit will have water penetration turning the heavy weight lube to a "Thin Milky Consistency". Unfortunately if kept in this condition for an extended period of time the internal bearings, gears, drive shaft, shift fork, and clutch cog will become rusted, sometimes seriously pitting the metal, and locking the lower unit in neutral/forward or reverse. it is always advisable to service the lower unit by checking the condition of the lube, draining by removing the upper and lower drain plugs allowing all the old lube to drain. Then using the recommended lower unit lube fill from the lower drain hole, until it comes up to/out the top drain hole. Then install the top plug with the tube or pump hose nozzle of the lube still in the lower hole, and quickly remove it and install the lower plug Installing the upper plug should create a "Vacuum" as the lube tries to drain when following up by installing the lower plug. There are also nylon or sometimes rubber washers or O-Rings on these plugs and should also be replaced when servicing. The key is to not allow any water to enter the lower unit which can cause serious damage.
This appears to be a very old (1960's) OMC (Outboard Marine Company: Johnson/Evinrude) "Spit-case" lower unit. Later Outboard motors and Inboard I/O Drives are "One Piece" and not split. The internals must be serviced/repaired by removing the prop and rear bearing carrier. Mercury/Mariner Outboard Motors and Outdrives require specialized tools to disassemble/reassemble. Also Bearing preloads must be set to specific values.
Motors used seasonally or in salt water should be flushed with a hose/fresh water and a "cupped headset" type attachment or bolt-on water intake plate on some models. To "winterize" this should be accomplished and the motor ran until all the gas is run out of the carb(s) there is also a "Spray Fogger" which can be sprayed in the throat(s) of the carbs during this process. Also fuel stabilizer should be added during this process to protect the fuel system from corrosion. Run the motor with the fuel line disconnected until all the fuel is ran through. Also either add the proper amount for fuel stabilizer to the tank, or drain completely if it will be unused for a longer period of time. This 'Prevention" can save on serious fuel system issues later on when the motor is returned to operation.
Another common problem is the "Water Pump Impeller". a rubber bladed/spoked component which is contained in the Water Pump Housing at the top of the lower unit, driven by the drive shaft. it is "Offset" in the housing creating voids between the blades which cycle from larger to small during rotation causing the water to be pressurized and pumped up through the powerhead or inboard motor. these become dried and brittle especially in stored in hot environments, and degrade over time. If the motor no longer pumps cooling water upwards the the Impeller blades are worn, or may even be separated completely. These require a tight seal within the Impeller Housing (Sides/Top & Bottom), to operate properly. Also if they are removed to check the condition and reused then they MUST BE REINSTALLED the same orientation as they came out of prior or the blades will be bent in the opposite direction causing complete failure when they are turned by the drive shaft. They must all bend in the same direction as determined by the powerheads driveshaft direction.
On motors of this vintage and even newer, generally to replace them a new "Impeller Kit" needs to be purchased which generally included the impeller, top and bottom plates, and a "Half Moon" or other type of key to drive the Impeller with the driveshaft. Generically you must access the shift rod coupler (typically located on the upper part of the lower unit leg below the powerhead, and behind an access plate on the side) This connection couples the Shift Lever to the Shift Rod going down to the lower unit. then all the bolts are removed which attach the Lower Unit to The Leg. Generally the drive shaft is splined and will come out of the bottom of the Crank Shaft in the Power Head. With all the lower unit bolts removed, Shift Rod Coupler disconnected the Lower unit should "Drop" down and can be removed. Typically the outboard motor must be tilted up to allow clearance to get the Drive Shaft and Shift Rod out of the Leg Housing. Once removed the Impeller Housing should be visible on the top of the Lower Unit allowing removal of the bolts securing the Water Pump/Impeller Housing and the housing itself. The new "Impeller Kit" can then be installed replacing the worn or damaged components. The Impeller should be lubricated as directed in the included instructions, or Motor's Service Manual during installation. It's typically best to replace the Impeller Components even if they look serviceable as it is now all accessible. This small price of prevention can save on catastrophic power head failure if the Impeller fails and the Power Head overheats. The reassembly is just a reverse process of removal, but care should be taken to not damage the top splines of the drive shaft or powerhead crank shaft. feeding the drive shaft and shift rod up the leg and into place can be challenging sometimes, and may require moving the shift lever forward or reverse to get the coupler connected DONT DROP THE BOLT! Also you may need to rotate the flywheel on the powerhead to get the splines to line up. Patience here can save many headaches. Never rotate the drive shaft from the power head in the reverse direction as this can cause some or all of the blades on the impeller to bend the wrong direction.
Though this is generalized many outboards use a similar water pump system. Larger Inboard/Outboard motors may be much more involved to access the Water Pump Housing and components as the Outdrive must pivot to raise and lower the Outdrive, and are driven horizontally from the Inboard motor to the pivot point and then down to the Lower Unit Housing. And like I said may require very specialized tools sold by Mercury and OMC or other manufacturers, specific for the application used.
I know this was a long winded Comment, but hopefully someone may get some use out of it, especially if the water pump stops pumping and you may wonder why. Blockage is also a possibility within the Water Passages, especially if the motor operates in a salt water environment and isn't properly flushed after operation. Also NEVER RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT A WATER SUPPLY! Serious damage to the Impeller, or over heating the power head likely will occur... Also these steps should be done "On Land", Watching a bolt or other component sink to the bottom of the lake can be horrifying!
👏👏👏👏👏👏
I was an OMC/Evinrude/Johnson Master Technician. You're right that people don't understand this. But you really didn't explain half of it. First, the "clutch" as you call it has teeth ("dogs") that interlock with teeth on the gears to lock one or the other gear to the center splined shaft. And second that failure to engage those fully (bad adjustment) and with some firmness creates that "clunking" sound going into gear and can wear the dogs until their mating edges become rounded, and then the engine easily jumps OUT of gear. Glad you added "part 2" so people can see the faces of the clutch and gears!
Thanks for adding additional info; yes "Part 2" goes more in-depth and I have a few other videos I recommend checking out showing the driveshaft / props haft / etc. very clearly.
This video was so well done that I feel like an expert on something I have never seen or heard of before until now.
What you describe makes total sense and after reading through comments you have helped several.
Nicely done! Subbed because this was so very informative!
I almost (ALMOST) feel like I could explain it to someone else now, and as the old saying goes, that's when you really understand something: when you can teach the concept to another person.
The video is great, I had no idea how the gear shift works. Without music and without noise, work that has cleared many of us who are here of many doubts. Thank you !!
When we raced outboards,we removed the reverse gear for better holeshot.Seemed to help,need every advantage you can think of when racing.😉
Excellent video,thanks for your time.
The Key here is that there is actually NO friction material, it is a solid metal dog on a solid metal gear and THAT is why you never slowly ease a boat into gear, you just pop it in or out as fast as possible so you are not banging the dogs on the gear and beating them to death.
Absolutely 101% correct.
I do videos on my channel to try and help people with certain things. Kind of a "pay it forward" type deal. Thanks for posting this. Excellent visual and explanation of this! On point, clear and concise. 5 years later people like me are just finding your video!
When putting drive shaft back in the lower unit on my 35hp Johnson do I need to release the oil pressure because it feels as if something is pushing it back up.
Excellent video. It clearly shows how things work without excessive talk or music. Well done sir !
ua-cam.com/video/3tkAohXvmq0/v-deo.html
Yes, yapping and music, so irritating. I like this guy.
@@renegademind1833: You think professional TV shows are so "bad"?
@@HelloKittyFanMan Most are too yappy dumb stuff.
@@renegademind1833: No they're not. You don't know what you're talking about. You've never seen any show like How It's Made or MythBusters or This Old House that get their demonstration points across even though they have music and plenty of talking, which talking they need to have in order to make their points?
Very interesting. Just one small point, that part is not a clutch, it's a gear selector. In this case a forward and reverse gear selector. Thanks for posting.
Even as a kid this was not hard to figure out. What did baffle me is how you can suddenly engage the gears--teeth to teeth--at high speeds without complete mayhem.
At idle its not that fast... but still. It is a very rugged mechanism. You could literally call it stone age.
Plus as described above the prop allows for "Slippage" in the water, and you would never want to shift into gear above idle.
Well done, a very clear, crisp explanation. Yes, it does not look difficult, but man, those gear parts are horrifically expensive. Much more than an entire good used power head or complete lower unit, for most engines.
Yes I recommend buying old parts and taking them apart.
Great explanation of what has always been a mysterious mechanical system to me. I appreciate the brevity of the video and the simplicity of your model. Very, very well done! Cheers. 😎
I knew nothing about this before starting this video. Now I know a little more. Thanks
Adjust shift rod before taking anything apart. You saved so many people from so many problems.
Thank you, I'm pretty well versed in all small engine repair, except lower unit stuff on boat motors. I've never done much more than a sheer pins and fluid. My Mercury 115 won't engage in reverse 99% of the time. Appreciate you taking the time to post.
Another you tube fact that I never even knew I needed to know, but will now be forever thankful that I do.
As you say so single, never even thought that it all happened down in the bottom of the leg, always assumed the transmission was up the top under the motor with a right angle bevel drive at the bottom.
Good info, I always wondered how this worked. Thanks for taking the time and effort in making this video.
Thank you for this illustration. It is one thing to know how it probably works and quite a nice thing to actually see it. Cheers.
Thank you for the hard work and easy to understand demonstration.
Excellent video. No messing about or self congratulation. Just straightforward easy to understand information. Perfect!
When have you ever supposedly seen a video where somebody was like, "Congratulations to me..." etc., other than something like maybe thanking their viewers for certain milestones?
It's as fascinating as simple! Thank you
Good demonstration and explanation about 20 years ago I restored a Wooden Chris Craft Cabin Cruiser i had to pull a blown motor and replace it when I got it out I hauled the Paragon transmission home with me to do a visual inspection on my workbench I had a lot of fun spinning it and shifting to make sure it was worthy of installing in the vessel with a new motor its funny because. I ran into a old timer boat repairman and restoration guy who told me he had a guy that could get any parts I might need and I asked him if I should have it rebuilt by that shop the guy laughed at me and said if you think it’s working correctly put it back in the boat those old ones run forever save your money ive sold that boat and still see it around to the best of my knowledge it’s still performing in her original spot made to a “new 283 Chevy small block raw water cooled motor painted Chris Craft Blue like it was inn1964
Learn something new everyday.... everyday I'm not sleeping.😁 Thanks.
I'm not a boat guy but always interested in learning.
This is how stern drives work as well. Very simple, effective design
Ha that’s identical to my ATVs drivetrain. Stupid simple. Had no idea. Great vid.
ua-cam.com/video/3tkAohXvmq0/v-deo.html
@@amit8690 mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Glad to see a video on this topic but somewhat incomplete description, leaving the viewer to work out that the two pairs of pegs on one of the clutch components have to engage in recesses in either forward or reverse gear rings. Or so it would appear. Closer inspection with the camera would have helped.
Like a basic version of a motorcycle gearbox. That's also a constant mesh system with 'floating' output gears shifted by a fork.
Wow , that is such an elegantly simple device , it is almost fool proof in its operation , thanks for the heads up ;) .
This is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!!!
Brilliant information, my engine wasn’t going forward, just into neutral and reverse, took the gearbox apart n fixed what I thought was the problem but after assembling it back it now goes into neutral and forward but not reverse 😅
Any solution to why this may be happening??
Really cool to see/know what is actually going on. Great video! Thanks!
ttteyus
wdc
And that's everyone is how you do a "how it works" video. I found that so amazing! Liked and subscribed.
good vid, well done thanks for not talking about your family or some stuff for a few minutes before you got to the point.
Lol I hate videos where people just ramble about useless stuff, this was great & I'm amazing by how this works. Thinking about it in m yhead I thought it would be some complex difficult to understand mechanism but this is genius.
ua-cam.com/channels/898pjuEMs2ZpnxSTYmQONA.html
I bought a 1976 Evinrude mounted on a 76 VIP. It's a stick steer. I have broken two plastic cables ends that are attached to the gear shift handle when putting in forward. Obviously, something needs to be calibrated. Learning as I go...
A long time ago my dad's boat with an Evinrude motor would not reverse in the water. Took it to a boat shop and the guy told him he needed a new transmission. Wanting to charge a few grand.
Yes, boat repair costs are no joke. If you know absolutely NOTHING about the motors, you can easily spend $$$$ to fix something that costs 5 bux.
This was a long time ago,mid 90's. Before Google and UA-cam,lol.
Yes, times sure have changed. I don't think I could do all the stuff I do now without UA-cam and forums.
Thanks for posting this up. Now I know what was the issue with that motor. It has stayed in the back of my head all these years. I will show this vid to my dad.
I had a friend who bought a boat years back and I believe reverse gear quit working. She took it to a shop and they wanted to rebuild the entire gearbox. I told her have someone who knows what they're doing check and make sure the linkage is adjusted properly. Linkage adjustment from the remote control as well as adjustment on the motor itself. It turns out that was the only thing that was wrong with it. It probably took no more than 20 minutes to adjust it.
WoW, that is ridiculously simple.
Great video. Thank you for posting.
Really appreciate your hard work to make me understand, thank so much
Hafiz Azmi
Hafiz Azmi Thank you. This is Poppy Harlow from Pew News, the most reliable news in UA-cam.
GREAT video...so many people think the drive shaft SWITCHES direction in reverse. That would mean the ENGINE would, all of a sudden, switch direction WHILE RUNNING....not to likely.
You put a lot of effort into getting this set up. Thanks.
Best video on explaining on how something works. Nice job! Thank you
Merci, now i will visualize that each time i use the shifter!
Think about it as a car's rear differential. Here there is one gear that is responsible for the propulsion. In a car power is transmitted to 2 gears so that it is evenly distributed to both wheels. A cars differential gear connected to the wheel have their own clutch to control power to the wheel. It helps when one wheel is stuck in the mud power is transmitted to the other wheel so that traction can be established.
It doesn't have to be a rear one.
Very similar to synchronizer rings in an automotive gearbox. Cool!
Its crazy how different yet so similar. Autos, Boats, planes. They have all adopted something from the others. Even if its just simple rivets, to engine tech. ENGINEERING=❤😍
Um No Because that is Not a transmission there aren't any synchronizers Also it's a boat not a car You have alot to learn about mechanical engineering
Wolf Firewalker I said similar, not identical. You have a lot to learn about the English Language.
Perfect illustration, very easy to understand. Thank you
Respect from Russia. Available and useful video.
for acentry I was un able to understand the mechanism .but after watching this it looked so easy to understand.
Lol0opl0o0l0yjuj0ok00pml000mmllpllmomlok pomm
Great Video Explanation with Simple way
Interesting. Never saw it like that 👍
Thanks
Ray
Thank you for recording and posting this educational video.
How i ended up here. UA-cam is a weird place.
you are not alone
Yes it is, but at least now we know to callibrate our shift rods if we are having trouble shifting into forward or reverse with our outboard boat motors 👍
Brilliantly explained, brilliant tutorial, thank you very much.
Grinded my gear for years on that one.
It is fascinating how many people get here just to hate everything. I feel sorry for all of these thumbs-down people. For this guy...Yes...practical, simple, necessary to understand the principle of this 90 degree conversion.
Thank you very much 😊 nobody could explain this to me so easily
Hey! That's the prop I lost on Lake Arrowhead in 1967 [sheared a cotter pin]
great video, simple, helpful and to the point
Thanks. I always wondered why it sounds like I'm destroying my very expensive outdrive a little more each time I shift in to forward or reverse.
I did not realize that the two vertical gears always spin and that both are always meshed with the horizontal gear.
I now understand that when the lever at the bottom gets pushed down by the mechanical linkage between it and the pilot's throttle lever, the rear horizontal (forward) gear starts taking power from the engine and transfers it to the prop, and the front horizontal gear just spins freely on the prop drive shaft, and vice versa for reverse. (I may have forward and reverse backwards here, but that's not important for understanding this.) And of course when the throttle lever is in neutral (the lever in your exhibit is not up or down, but in the middle of that range of movement) both vertical gears just spin and no engine power is transferred from the horizontal gear to the prop drive shaft.
Now my question is 'HOW does the 'clutch dog' (as someone in a comment called it) work? That's where the magic happens. I call it 'magic' because we can only see that the 'clutch dog' gets slid forward and rearward by the little lever. We can't see what is actually happening. (Is the prop drive shaft actually split where the clutch dog is? I know the splines must have something to do with it.) How this works is actually not 'beyond simple'. It appears simple at first but you left out the magic part.
I really appreciate this video, because this will help me and zillions of boaters understand why they need to not be shy about engaging forward or reverse quickly. I know often I have to fight the urge to be slow when I start hearing those gears start to mesh. Please bring it on home and explain how the 'clutch dog' works so I don't have to take my outdrive apart to figure it out.
I just got it. Watching what was moving and not while you were turning the prop in neutral, and then turning the vertical shaft in neutral, made it click.
Those 'ears' in the clutch dog must take a beating. Not really a clutch like in a car at all. Would be cool to see a close up of the 'clutch dog' engaging the forward (or reverse ) gear. Thanks for the video!! So glad to know that the actual gears are not what's making that 'grinding' sound when shifting in to forward or reverse. Now get that thing off your kitchen table before your wife catches you!
He kind of sounds like Jamie from MYTHBUSTERS... I can't be the only one who hears it.
It's very informative video ...with out any back ground music it's clear to understand how gear box or transfer case will work..
So it’s similar to a rear wheel drive axle combined with a manual transmission. Interesting
I have been wondering how this works since I was a kid. Thanks!
DON'T LOOSE THE LITTLE BALLS THAT FALL OUT WHEN YOU TAKE THIS ASSEMBLY APART!
Who are that people which dislike such useful videos? Thanks for authors! And like for the video!
For many men like me this mechanical is hard to understand!🤔🤔👏👏👍
Excellent video well described thanks
Вот у нас бы в техникуме так объясняли дохододчиво, так я бы анженером сейчас стал.
Вряд-ли
Simplest video I’ve ever seen , explained in simple terms. Thank you so much
Great and easy explanation. Thank you!
How to run a gear box. First step don't switch gears unless absolutely required. Usually look the traffic and terrains and curves to make decisions forehand. Neutral is a necessary before stop to gauge slopes.
Same as shifting gears in a trans. Or engaging a pto
Q to youby2ndof
Охуенное видео. Пиздец, как все понятно. Блять, я просто охуел как все просто.
@d0rraj same in theory of a manual trans or a differential. Dog gear and shifter fork engages the selected gear.
Op0ojok00konu00l0l0l00oml0l0k0llo0oookonlo99mok9mk00mlpmoko000olpkloko99nnlk9oommlo
У меня славные воспоминания о лм вихрь-30!
Евгений Царапкин yes
а Стрела Ветерок
@@MrStrocko по молодости лет, не застал)))). Сейчас на ямахе хожу... но старожилы рассказывали!
Москва 25, Нептун 20, Меркурий, Ветерок 8, 12 были. Вихрь 30 это зверь.
Thanks....finally found a video where someone actually took one apart and showed how it worked versus just people telling how it works and using drawings that weren't that clear.
Thank you, sir.
Very enlightening.
not sure why I'm watching this, been in a boat only once in my life lol but nice explanation!
Винт в этой жизни повидал не мало.
Это с советского вентилятора)))
@@ИванТруш-й9х ... настольного...)))
Thanks for sharing your video and letting people know how it works, thanks again
That prop has been plowing the lake bottom
I am new at this motor boats things and it helps a lot, great video easy to understand
O9i9inkok00kok00t jj nnn
Не знаю, что он говорит, про что он говорит, но почему-то я это смотрю в 3 часа ночи.
Рома Бетехтин yes
Ucis ciuvak panimat. Atkrojitsa mir pa bolse
Я тоже
@@venturii29 пусть они нас понимают)
И откроится им мир намного больше их местечковости)
ua-cam.com/video/fRgXQn6USPk/v-deo.html
Thank you! I've seen the same in an ATV/quad for the reverse gear.
Low tech system, easy to understand.
I knew how it worked off the thumbnail
It’s a egg beater almost the same as a fishing reel but the prop would have drag washers for it to slip
ua-cam.com/video/fRgXQn6USPk/v-deo.html
@@trexmidnite h6jy
Well, easy straight forward gear, i love simple solutions.
I'll be damn, l never own a outboard motor but if l ever do this is good to know, Thanks
i once got a motor that kept jumping out of forward gear, i found the dog edges on the splined center slider were rounded over. i took the slider and the two gears off the prop shaft and turned the over a put them back together, now the dogs were engaging on the the other face that was not damaged, so now the gears would stay engaged and power like normal. only cost some gear lube to repair.
Thank you this is help alot for me finding a part to make my project ....
One question .... those this gear require clutch also
The centre selector is permanently engaged to the propeller shaft which is in neutral when in the middle , when shifted either left or right , those knobs on the selector lock into the gear on either the right or left within about half a turn , i think in the old days this style of engagement would have been called a dog clutch in that it has no smooth engagement , once the locating teeth/pins on the selector have meshed , it is locked into gear with a bang , however because the prop is in water for the engagement , wear is minimal .
It essentially has no soft engagement friction clutch as you would find in your car or bike .
That is the best i can describe it , hope that helps .
Thank for the information
Q to you
That's a Dog ring, not a clutch. Clever design, thanks for showing us.
Simon T Sometimes referred to as “dog-clutch” as well.
So COOL! Thanks!
That's a great video, and it will be for a. Long Time, this is the type of information people pay a lot of money to see in a manual but you have broaden the learning process to get people to learn not to be so dramatic in a failed day at lake. More poeple know if they watched this video,"Hey maybe you didn't ruin your expensive complicated outboard you should check out the link adjustment before unassembeling the painstakingly awkward to work on part of the outboard that doesn't even need fixed.
Thanks my friend, I was always curious how this shit worked...!
Awesome video!! I always wondered how the inside gears of a motor works. Thanks!
ं
Simple and smart... Thanks!
Cool. It's a differential, but the rpm difference is always full rpm to zero.
I don't own a boat but pretty cool to know
the idea is good but you need a bearing between the driven shaft and the gear, otherwise the box on the turns will jam
I dont get what your saying. Unless you jk, right?
Thanks for sharing.. I'vr learned a lot.. God bless..
It’s simple and it works. That’s why it’s been used for 50+ years!
I’m waiting for some engineer to think he can do it with electromagnetic clutches and brakes lol
Similar to sleeves on a manual trans
This is such a good video I have a starter project I’m doing on my channel and this will help so much thanks