How to rebuild a clutch slave cylinder
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2016
- If you don't feel like rebuilding it you can always get a new one: amzn.to/2Nih0QD
Here's a short video on how to rebuild your clutch slave cylinder. The video shows how to rebuild your clutch slave cylinder using a Toyota OEM kit that contains a replacement piston with new o-rings, a new spring and a new rubber boot. This particular clutch slave cylinder fits onto my 1987 Toyota MR2 with the 4AGE engine and C50 transmission, but it also fits on a dozen other Toyota vehicles.
Here's the rebuild kit part number if you need it: 04313-22020. Scroll down to the bottom of the description for a full list of cars that are compatible with this clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit.
The clutch slave cylinder is easily rebuilt, but you will need an air compressor to pop the little piston out of the cylinder. After that the assembly and rebuild is simple and consists of attaching the new spring and piston to each other, cleaning the inside of the cylinder, lubricating the rubber o-rings of the piston and popping it all the back in and putting the rubber boot and rod back on top.
Take note that not all clutch slave cylinders can be rebuilt. Newer models of cars are starting to get clutch slave cylinders that have a plastic housing. These can not be rebuild and are replaced as a whole. The cost for an OEM unit is usually around $100, while an OEM rebuild kit usually costs in the neighbourhood of $20-30.
Check out my blog for more MR AW11, 4AGE, and other car stuff: www.driving4answers.com/
List of vehicles compatible with the clutch slave cylinder as shown in the video:
Date range Model Frames/Options
10/1984-11/1989 TOYOTA STARLET - EP7*,NP70
05/1983-06/1988 TOYOTA COROLLA - EE80,AE8*,CE80
05/1987-04/1992 TOYOTA COROLLA - EE9*,AE9*,CE90
05/1987-10/1992 TOYOTA COROLLA - EE90,AE92,CE90
05/1983-06/1987 TOYOTA COROLLA - AE86
08/1979-06/1987 TOYOTA COROLLA - KE70,AE71,TE7*,CE70
11/1984-11/1989 TOYOTA MR2 - AW11
08/1977-06/1981 TOYOTA CARINA - TA4*(A)
08/1981-08/1983 TOYOTA CARINA - TA6*,CA60
08/1977-06/1981 TOYOTA CELICA - TA40B,RA40B
08/1981-11/1985 TOYOTA CELICA - AA63,TA60,SA63,RA6*,MA61
08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA CELICA - AT160,ST162
08/1987-07/1989 TOYOTA CELICA - AT160,ST16*
09/1978-12/1982 TOYOTA CORONA - TT13*,RT13*,XT130
01/1982-06/1999 TOYOTA CORONA FR CT14*,RT14*,ST141,TT14*,YT140
10/1983-10/1987 TOYOTA CARINA 2, CORONA AT151,ST15*,CT150
12/1987-02/1992 TOYOTA CARINA 2 AT17*,ST171,CT171
10/1982-09/1986 TOYOTA CAMRY SV1*,CV1*
10/1986-07/1988 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,CV20,VZV21
08/1988-05/1991 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,CV20,VZV21
01/1986-07/1988 TOYOTA SUPRA MA70
08/1988-04/1993 TOYOTA SUPRA MA70
09/1980-03/1985 TOYOTA CRESSIDA TX62,RX6*,MX6*,LX60
08/1984-07/1988 TOYOTA CRESSIDA YX70,RX7*,GX71,MX7*,LX7*
09/1979-06/1983 TOYOTA CROWN RS110,MS11*,LS110
08/1983-07/1987 TOYOTA CROWN YS120,MS12*,LS120
10/1979-07/1985 TOYOTA LITEACE KM20,YM2*,CM20
10/1985-07/1988 TOYOTA LITEACE KM3*,CM35
08/1988-12/1991 TOYOTA LITEACE KM3*,CM3*
11/1982-07/1988 TOYOTA MODEL-F YR2*,31,CR21
08/1978-02/1984 TOYOTA HILUX RN3*,4*,LN3*,4*
08/1983-06/1998 TOYOTA HILUX LN5*,6*,YN5*,6*,RN5*,6*
03/1979-01/2000 TOYOTA STOUT RK110,YK110
08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA 100 YH8*,LH80
08/1987-04/1995 TOYOTA DYNA 100 YH81,LH80
12/1982-06/1988 TOYOTA HIACE YH5*,6*,7*,LH5*,6*,7*
08/1989-01/2006 TOYOTA HIACE LH1**,RZH10*,11*,125,135,15*
08/1987-07/1989 TOYOTA HIACE YH5*,6*,LH5*,6*
08/1989-07/1995 TOYOTA HIACE LH10*,11*,RZH10*,11*
08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA 150 YY5*,6*,LY60
08/1987-04/1995 TOYOTA DYNA 150 YY61,LY6*
09/1984-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA BU6*,7*,8*
08/1987-07/1988 TOYOTA DYNA BU6*,7*,8*,9*
09/1984-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA RU75,85,YU6*,7*,8*,WU9*
11/1984-12/1989 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER RJ7*,LJ7*,BJ7*
01/1990-07/2001 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER BJ73,LJ7*,RJ7*,HZJ7*,PZJ7*,KZJ7*
05/1982-12/1992 TOYOTA COASTER RB2*,BB2*,3*,HB3*,FB30,HDB30,HZB30
#d4a #clutch #toyota #clutchslavecylinder #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #rebuild #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #diy #how - Авто та транспорт
Don't feel like rebuilding it? Buy a new one (Aisin): amzn.to/2Nih0QD (please double check fitment with your vehicle)
Always smart to hone the cylinder before reassembly.
It's not guaranteed to last long if the cylinder is pitted with corrosion badly. Fine water paper should be used with brake fluid to remove corrosion and then check for pitting inside the slave cylinder. If it is fine and smooth, then it's worth the while replacing the piston with the plunger. If the inside of the slave cylinder is pitted with holes and irregular after cleaning , then the complete slave or master cylinder should be replaced . Please don't use any type of grease to lubricate the 'o' ring or plunger, just use brake fluid to lubricate because there should be only brake fluid density in that hydraulic system . If the vehicle shares the same reservoir for brake and clutch fluid , then extreme caution should be taken when bleeding the air out of the system lines. Depending on the vehicle and valve stoppers , sometimes it's better to bleed the complete clutch cylinders and brake cylinders starting from the reservoir to all bleeding points or nipples beyond that to avoid braking failure. After restoration and bleeding , pump the clutch and brakes and check for any leaks. Do this repeatedly a good few times and observe to ensure safety,
Thanks for the video... I was able to send it to a friend who had questions on the inner workings of a slave cylinder...
OH and YES those damn rubber boots are a pain in the butt
Very helpful video, I didn't know that it can be rebuild. thanks again!
To properly rebuild a slave cylinder the dude should have used a brake wheel cylinder hone to remove any scratches or imperfections inside the cylinder bore, then clean and lube before assembling !
It's good to see you're still at it. Your videos are extremely helpful! I'm looking to rebuild my clutch slave cylinder soon here when I attempt to swap in a used C56 transmission I bought for $100 =).
On a side note, I just recently paid my mechanic $200 to weld up a hole in the fuel filler neck. The previous owner had put 8 cm wood screws through the driver's side firewall to mount an audio amp... I needed to do it so I could pass emissions. Now I am able to legally drive my MR2 until April of 2018! Hopefully I won't have any major repairs going forward.
I can't wait to see you driving your AW11. It looks like you are doing everything the right way, and it'll be like new when it's all done.
Hey there man! Long time no see. I'm really happy you still have the car and didn't get rid of it. Rebuilding the slave cylinder is easy, 15 minute job if you're not trying to make a lame video out of it :)
Find that PO and throw that audio amp through his window. Joking, joking :) But that is seriously stupid what he did. To think you paid more for getting that stupidity fixed than for the transmission. Glad you were able to get it fixed and can drive legally.
Hope I get there soon too. I am relatively confident I will be driving this summer. When it comes to doing it the "right way", that is debatable. The real right way is probably forking out tens of thousands of dollars and having a team of restoration and tuning pros build the ultimate AW11. But reality is fun too, I am enjoying this as well :)
Best of luck to you and stay in touch.
Took me forever to figure out where your comment is and reply to it. It was in my notifications but it wasn't on the video. UA-cam put it under "likely spam" and I had to approve it first. Go figure.
Would have only taken 5 minutes if you could have put the rod through the hole in the rubber - for god sake, just give up.
That feeling of relief when your camera got in focus!
Very good and easy to follow...may be a bit more light for following videos, but no complains !
Thanks
nice vid thanks, helpful!
Thank you for your video
Thank you so very much for this video. I used it to rebuild mine as well.
3 things to note: 1) Rock Auto currently (Oct '18) lists six replacement cylinders for this car at under $20, and the most expensive at $28 (the best, a Wagner, at $24). So you might want to consider buying an entire replacement, rather than rebuilding one.
2) In the "old days" we would've honed out the cylinder bore with a brake cylinder hone, if the master/slave clutch cylinders existed (they're a later, post 60's complication to the auto industry, thanks to Detroit making things even more complicated and therefor more expensive to work on).
3) Some slave cylinders have bleeder screws, some don't, and it appears that this one in the video doesn't. For those without, it seems that you'd have to fill the cylinder from one of the tube ports and hope you get all the bubbles out, maybe by loosening a port tube, filling it with fluid through the other port tube while the cylinder is just barely inserted into the cylinder, then slowly push the cylinder in until fluid is running out the loosened port tube. Maybe there's a bleeder port somewhere above the cylinder in the line, but that's not apparent in this video, as it's off the engine/transmission. Either way, they need to be bled of air before and/or after installation, otherwise the clutch will feel spongy, and the pedal free play will be excessive / out of spec. Eventually the compressed fluid/air mix will heat up and break down the fluid, water will be absorbed over time, and the cylinder will rust inside, just as brake cylinders do when air is trapped in the lines.
If you look carefully you will see two line connected to cylinder. One is line from Master cylinder another one is from bleeding screw. At 0.32 is nicely visible bleeding screw. Probably Is much easier access to bleeding screw in this position.
@@les0kon Hey there . We call bleeding screws , bleeding nipples or just nipples here in South Africa . Makes you think of other activities after you complete your repairs . Lol. Or that's why they refer to cars as ' SHE ' .
the cheap cylinders don't last.
I can sense little indentations at the inside wall of my clutch piston chamber and I was thinking of sanding it but I don't know what sandpaper number is good to remove the indentations but not create another ones.
I've replaced a new piston recently and the rubber part of the piston got damaged quickly and I guess because of the indentations so I was thinking sanding it instead of buying a new chamber
So what's your thoughts, I'd really appreciate your help!
You were unable to insert that rod to the rubber, I was wondering if you bought another one cuz you grab the second one from the plastic bag.
Bal Loney This is a pretty old video and now that I rewatched it I see that it has truly horrible editing. The video as a whole is painful to watch. What happened is that I didn't edit out the first part where I was inserting the rod through the rubber boot the wrong way. It's the same rubber boot and the same rebuilt kit, I'm just doing it twice on video.
sticky clutch some time and it stops working after getting hard. any idea what should be cause ?
its hyundai i20 petrol, it has both master and slave cylinders. i run car very less, may be 100 km hardly in month.
Sandip Thakor This is just a very wild guess because its very hard to tell liks this based on little info, but it might be the thrust bearing.
Hi. Is it supposed to have oil inside the slave cylinder seal bud?
Hello, where did you buy the rebuild kit, i need to buy a kit for an Aveo, thanks.
+Blanco & Chocolate Catering Its OEM, bought at a Toyota dealership.
Had my slave cylinder piss out all its fluid while i was driving my 87 NA today, luckily the whole unit is only $16 on amazon so i'm just replacing the whole thing. Any recommendations on penetrating fluid for the hard-line fittings and is heating it up a bad idea?
I would go with heating up as a last resort. When it comes to fluid and fittings I can't really recommend anything as I assume you're in the US and they stock entirely different stuff than over here across the pond in the Balkans.
@@d4a Alright cool, I should've worded my question better because I was actually wondering if it was okay to use penetrating fluid in general on hard lines or what. Regardless, thanks for responding haha
On a different note; Ya know, you deserve some serious props for putting in the thought and effort to find workarounds to everything that people just buy here in the US. Alot of times I forget that it's even a thing you have to contend with because of the stuff you've managed to do with your AW11. Seriously, props to you dude.
Thanks so much man. I really appreciate when someone understands the actual effort that goes into stuff like this. When it comes to penetrating fluid, obviously don't use it if you're not gonna bleed the system afterwards or get the penetrating fluid out of the system one way or another. Plus, most fluids like wd40 aren't kind to many types of rubber so there with care.
@@d4a No problem at all, thank you for putting in the time and effort to make these vids and even parts and stuff. Before i got mine i did some researching into the aftermarket because i've been a tuner at heart ever since i saw my first modified car, and one of the things that drew me to the AW11 over things like the FB/FC RX-7, s13 240sx (which i think is the 180sx for you guys), Pontiac Fiero, Lancia Scorpion/Monte Carlo, MX-5, and other cars like that was the amount of stuff and knowledge available all in one place from you, T3, Two'sRUs, etc. Not to mention the AW11 just seemed mechanically cooler for some reason, but thats beside the point lol and i've had pretty good luck thus far with things not being too stuck but i always like to do my research beforehand and i'd never heard anyone say one way or the other if heat/penetrating fluid was a bad idea on hydraulic systems so i figured i'd ask you haha
Hi, How to remove the slave cylinder and the bracket all in one like this? Did you cut something? Thanks!
karim hassane No cutting. The bracket is held down by two bolts and a hose connection. If you don't remove the cylinder from the bracket it will all come off together.
Thanks for the fast reply, mate. Best wishes for 2018 ;)
NEVER say anything is easy. Especially when you're making a video!
muy bien amigo goood
Thank you
Little trouble finding the hole. It's ok it happens. Lol
Is there a way torepair the rubber boot? I have a tear in mine away from the fitting part of it. Just wondering
It's rubber, you usually just replace old rubber with new rubber
I replaced the CMC and clutch but my clutch pedal is still soft; I can only shift 1st to 4th gear and reverse. I can't go into 5 and 6 gear. I haven't replace the slave cylinder.
freestyle yaaj Did you check for leaks? Did you try bleeding the system?
bleed it twice but not sure if there's a leak or not. How can tell?
Forgot to mention that when trying to shift into 5th and 6th gear seems like the gears are being lock.
+freestyle yaaj Look at clutch lines and slave for a leak. Leave clean cardboard below slave overnight and look for drops in the morning. Slave might be gone too if you can't shift. Probably best to take it to a professional, it's just guesswork like this.
But new slaves are soo cheap.. Its still interesting to see the process. Thanks
How cheap it is depends entirely on the car. The cheapest priced slave cylinder that can be found for my car for example is still over $100, so I naturally opted for the rebuild kit. And as long as you hone the cylinder before putting in the new piston the thing should last just as long as a brand new slave cylinder.
cheap slave cyl don't last. replace every year.
in which model can that fit i need to fix my Cylinder slave of 280Z 1980
This is Toyota C50 and C52 transmission and many other C toyota transmissions. I'm sure there's plenty of kits online for the Z. It's a popular platform.
@@d4a Thansk found on on Amazon for 14$ but
Do you only have one hand?
Logan Pena what if he genuinely did, it’s not funny mate fair play. There’s a reason you’re watching this video so be grateful.
3:13
Anyways I replaced the master and other cylinder 4 times clutch fluid keeps turning black and I can't get into 1st gear After 8 days.... It works perfect for the 1st 7 days like butterI'm an experienced mechanic I don't know what the problem is I'm using thread sealant on the clutch hose I don't see any leaks??? What next?
Is the cap on your master cylinder and other seals sealing properly?
Moisture will destroy brake fluid quick smart.
i have a toyota coaster 1977 motorhome will be soon. i have been working on and off for 2 years on my coaster and my clutch did not work. to today i look at my clutch cylinder and put it apart and i look at it and it did not a spring inside of it haha. now I know why my clutch wasn't working too good. I will get a new one next week for $35 on ebay. I just replace all my old brake pipes back of my speedo where the brake Reservoir oil is and I do not have a clutch Reservoir on my coaster it shares with the brakes Reservoir. I have got a video of my Toyota Coaster motorhome on UA-cam if you want to have a look at it needs a lot of work still I will get there one day.
DIY Carmodz??
Do the clutch salve cylinders change on different cars like on a Ford the slave cylinder will be in a different place to a Toyota.
Whichever brand the car is, if it has a manual transmission the clutch slave cylinder will be somewhere on the gearbox as it needs to push the fork that engages/disengages the clutch.
Tim G - some are inside the Bell housing, according to diagrams I've seen. Real pain in the a$$ to replace.
Can bad slave cylinder cause hard clutch pedalMy car clutch pedal is very hard to pushI replaced clutch assembly no use I have a Volkswagen 1.5TDIPLEASE HELP
+Vikas V A hard clutch pedal is rarely caused by a slave cylinder. It's more often the throw out bearing, or maybe your clutch cable is binding, or you have a bad/worn release fork? This is just guessing of course and until someone properly inspects the car you won't know for sure
My clutch is good in the morning before I start my car pedal will be smooth and good .. it will be good till 5kms ... then clutch becomes hard and gear becomes notchy
Sounds like you have too much brake/clutch fluid try taking some out of the reseviour. Your welcome!
Spl Try can too much brake fluid cause clutch pedal hard?
@@vikaaas16Change slave cylinder that will solve your problem. After changing you still face the problem then only change clutch master cylinder. I think slave cylinder is the main culprit.
أشكرك على مقطع
دائما أعاني من هذه المشكله
كيف أرتاح منها كل شهر يسبب عندي عطل كلج
غير القطعه كامل، يبدو ان في عندك شقوق بجدار البستون حق الكلج فهذه الشقوق تاكل المطاط حق البستون و تسبب انه يبدء بالتسريب.
غير البستون من غرفته يعني القطعه اللي في الفيديو بالكامل
does that spring need to be in there?
yes. it keeps a bit of pre-load on the push rod so that it doesn't slip off of the clutch fork.
Silicone???? Thought that didnt mix with dot 3?
Brand of car?
Toyota
a replacement slave cylinder for my hilux was $3 lol
Next time Mount your camera and use 1 hands.
Not worth it, slaves are usually less than 50 for most cars. If you rebuild it the odds are you will have had rust that will have pitted the inside wall of the slave cylinder. You will never be able to get it as smooth as it should be with your own tools at home.
And just like this you rip the tip if the rubber bout clean off the flexible bit rendering it useless,😂😂😂 ,its definitely ur first time doing this straightforward task as. U call it,yet can't complete with the 1 kit u started with 😥🙋💃👉🔧🔩⤵✊↔✊,don't give up ur day job mate🚮🏨
Why don't you help out by doing something besides judgeing this man trying to help you just because he don't bucther things up like they say you sound you got badd karma bud ..you get what you give ...be cool topeple God only wants peace dude be good thoughts feel better that negative asshole from hell ....
I am over trying to watch bumbling bloody videos.
And I am over paying attention to useless comments.
Don Hill don't see how it is bumbling.
... but not commenting on them ,,,