EPISODE 61 - LOWERING A HOLDEN WB UTE BODY BACK ON THE CHASSIS
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- Опубліковано 28 лют 2022
- This episode is a real turning point for the build, lowering the body back on the chassis. It represents the final build up of the ute once again back to and if not better than it's original factory condition.
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Looking great. You are inspiring a lot of guys and girls to get into their projects!
Fantastic job
Thanks👍 Stuart appreciate that!
Looking good! I wouldn't even start thinking about playing with the suspension again until the car is completely finished with all the panels, engine, oils, coolant, a full tank of fuel, a driver, a passenger & a dog in the back. I put standard height springs lovells in the rear of my race car and it raised it by an inch or two above standard because the car was stripped out, if I'd put lowered ones in it would of ended up standard height.
Yeah agreed, I will wait and build it up and by the time all that extra weight is added is bound to settle into a nice height.
Looking gooooood
Mate. Minty fresh goodness. 2 years later and it's back in the same spot... Mine's the same ,but it's literally in the same spot. It has had some work..... The 15s look great, i reckon. Well done allround 👌
Thnaks mate, yeah it was actually close to 3 years according to youtube... bloody long time. Yeah 15's look good, but i was thinking 17's, we will see...
Effort = reward great work
Thanks👍
I bet that's a good feeling mate.
Looking the goods.
15inch wheels all the way🤙
Definitely was, cheers mate🤙
Mega milestone! Stance 👌🏻 Panels so clean you could eat your brekkie off them! Congrats 👏🏻 🛠
Thanks Dom!
Good stuff Barnesy. I sense a renewed burst of enthusiasm coming. Mine is on the rotisserie still and in bare metal so I'm falling behind you, which is a good way for me to learn from what you do. Crack on before you have to paint in winter! Don't forget to check the old cowl for washer nozzle holes in case you have to drill them before you weld it on. And the holes for the build plates.
Definitely, the body work was a real drag and motivation was hard to maintain however i'm fired up now that it's becoming easier again! Yes i plan to get it sprayed by end of March, Autumn weather will be a good stable environment, it's far too muggy and humid at the moment anyway. Yes i might even spray primer before i weld it on so i just have to top up the welds and not get primer everywhere. Noted the windscreen wiper holes and tag rivet holes. thanks!
Good work dude ! The idea of welding on the cowl panel on later after you’ve painted the firewall will mean you’ll burn off paint on the firewall and will have to redo - you’ll notice the cowl won’t flow into the door level well ( they didn’t from factory )so depending on your ocd level ya might wanna cut and align them for a seamless look. Maybe look at finishing the cowl section and paint the wall,window recess, door inners and jambs as one application. The front spoiler panels are called “lower valance panels” ha! Hope I’m helping cheers mate bring on next vid!
Thanks mate, yeah I might not of explained it well but that's what I planned to do, weld the cowl in next. Although I am finding it really hard to tuck the edges down at the right door line. Not sure how I'm going to get it lined up yet without pushing the plenum down a little. I was also thinking of sanding the epoxy and priming the cowl off the car and getting it to 90% first but once again weld spatter might ruin that. Cheers
Love it mate, you’ve been a big inspiration in my build. Cheers
Thanks mate, hope the builds are going well!
Huge milestone, congrats!.
Cheers👍
Good job mate, keep at it. You are doin well. You give me inspiration to keep at my HQute. Cheers.
Thanks mate🤙
Doing a great job there looking awesome 👍
Thanks mate 👍
Looks awesome there mate, huge step forward, how good does it feel!!
Yeah feels great to have it rolling around as one unit!
I had lowering blocks on back of my ute, had to remove to pass roadworthy, ute sits well now although I have in the tray, toolboxes, spare tyre, jack etc
Might wait until they settle in and go from there.
you've done very well mate. glad to see such a massive milestone come together. is that Tocumwal at the start of the video BTW?
Thanks👍 yes it was Tocumwal actually, great spot!
Springs will settle down as you drive it and will come down low
You know how much roughly they commonly settle?
What a major step forward Barnesy, it looks good on there. Those front panels you call spoilers are the gravel guards and the shroud is the plastic bit around the fan. Let that ride height grow on you, it looks good, mine is standard height and yours is way lower. Interesting that your front tyres are the same as the ones I took off mine not long ago, I hated them (HTR2000). I went from 8” wheels to 7”x14 Road Rebels which was a huge improvement, it rides and steers much better now. I don’t have power steering (which I would like to have but it is very hard to find now) and it was very hard in the mouth with the 8” wheels. Do you have power steering for yours? That chassis looks magnificent, did you have any cracking in the front where they all crack, especially the ones that have had the shit bashed out of them circle working? Jeff
Gravel guards, check, thanks mate. Yes feedback concensus is leave it be and it will settle in as the springs loosen up so will do that. Still undecided on wheel size, i like the 17's but we will see. Yes i have power steering, and had it overhauled as well so it's new. The chassis was fine, no cracking that i could see so all good. It was a city car for most of it's life i think so escaped the B&S circle work sessions!
Heard of issues with lowering blocks on some cars. Messing with pinion angle. And wrecks centre bearings and cvs I believe. Maybe better off getting the leafs reset to lower
I don't think 1 inch would be an issue, they are brand new lowered springs so already shelled out the money. The should bed in i have since been told so i will wait until i start to drive it and they should come down a little. cheers
Good job mate and a scence of accomplishment. I think with the king springs the difference between sl to ssl is only about 15 mm. I know it is with the later irs springs I have in my VS CLUBSPORT. Again great job. I still don't know why you bought a Walcom gun, anyway try getting in some practice with it, I think you're gonna need it, will you be wet sanding your clear coat and buffing or maybe flow coat it? Love ya work man.👍
Thanks mate going to leave the springs until I drive it and it beds in. What's wrong with the Walcom gun? I read they are exceptional? I don't think I will have a problem to be honest, I've done enough research now I get the idea of how to apply it and it has a great fan pattern so as long as I stick to the overlap plan, drop coat the metallic and flash off times it should be fine. I will definitely be cutting the clear and buffing as I imagine orange peel will be there. I was thinking a flow coat as well but you need to wait 4-6 weeks for clear to fully cure don't you?
@@BarnesysBuilds Hey mate, I'm not knocking the Walcom gun I just don't know anyone who uses them, I'm a Devillbis user and have been for years, I also have a Iwata w400 Bellaria and they are a GREAT gun. With the Devillbis pro lites you get 2 air caps, the te10 for base and a te20 or t100 for clear with a 1.3 fluid tip. How big is your compressor coz you'll have to watch the air use that your gun is rated at. If you let your clear harden up for a week or two you should be right to block it with 1500 or 2000 grit and flow coat it. You can do all the flat panels with a da sander and sanding sponges for all the other parts. Your roof and bonnet you can smash it on but use a faster pass for your vertical panels like doors etc to avoid runs and sagging. Still use your 75% overlap. When I was an apprentice I was taught that your first coat is a "tack coat". A closed coat to make the surface sticky for the 2nd coat to stick to hence the "tack coat" term. If you lay down 3 coats and give it 3 weeks and wet sand it with 1500, 2000, 3000 and buff it I reckon you'll have a great finish.
Tape it up and do your engine bay and core support first, door jams too. I'd paint the doors off the car so you can get into the hinge points and the front of the doors and the rear of the front panels. Easier access for the interior too. I have always had guns for base and designated clear guns.
Good luck man and take your time. It's going to be beautiful. I'm doing a bit on my clubsport at the moment, I've deleted the sunroof and have filled, blocked filled and blocked, primed and blocked 2 more times and laid down the final primer coat yesterday and will leave it for another week before I block it again for base and clear. New headliner too. I think I've got a bit of OCD coz I'm a perfectionist when it comes to painting. 👍🇭🇲
@@beauchamp1763 thanks mate, great advice, I've been sticking to your methods and it's paying off. So with the doors I was going to take them off to paint firewall area and door jams and inside rear door areas while they are off then reassemble to paint the fronts on the car when I do the main body. I was told if you don't you could get variation in the metallic potentially? I was going to start with inner guards and firewall as if I have any issues it's not the end of the world and it will give me a good section to test. I was going to tack coat the first coat of base then go a heavier coat on 2nd and then a drop coat for 3rd if it covers well on the 2nd. If not a drop coat on 4th. Then should I allow the metallic to fully dry and check for mottle and lines first you reckon in case? Can you use a tack cloth at this point to clean any overspray before clear or should you just go for it if your happy with the base coat? I was going to do 75% overlap, the gun is a 1.3 tip so is good for both, going to go full fan and open it up and go for it. I will do some dry runs with water and metho first to get a feel for the gun and how it lays down and also practice my pattern over the ute so I get the same lay of paint each coat and don't get confused. Hopefully that should get me over the line.
@@BarnesysBuilds Yeah mate sounds good, maybe start with the fire wall and interior and inner guards, A piller and B piller inside and around your windows, some times with a full respray I do all those parts I mentioned and even do the roof and A and B piller in base and clear, let it dry and cover it up when you do the rest especially with an end draught booth. It's different in a full down draught booth when the overspray goes down and not along the body leaving overspray on the unpainted panels if you get my drift. You can tack cloth base coat but make sure that it's dry. I don't do it much but sometimes I do if it needs it, if the basecoat looks like a "sand pit" for want of a better term. Any mottle should be taken care of as you go, metallic silver is probably the worst for it. 2 coats of base should give you coverage, just don't try to paint too much panel at once, one panel at a time. So your passes are as wide as you can reach without over extending your reachThe tack coat applies to the clearcoat. How did you do the tailgate? Clear over base in the jam and edge of tailgate? Maybe do that as well when you do the door jams. There's a lot of planning to do when doing a respray man. I hope my suggestions help you with your upcoming paint job. Cheers mate.
Hey Troy, On looking at the firewall and the door jams etc the cowl panel actually has some sections that run under the front guards so i'm thinking of including the cowl as part of the first round of spraying. So Firewall, A and B pillars, door jams and the cowl. Off the car inner guards and rear and sides of doors. Sound like a feasible strategy to include the cowl?
I loved it when you doubted that there would not be undamaged access covers around. My HQ Ute has perfect ones and the wheel tubs have no dints at all due to having had a canopy on it for most of its life. Seriously, DO NOT paint the car and then weld in the cowl. It should have been done way before doing all the epoxy and under coats.
I never said I was painting the car then welding the cowl, if you watched the video you would know I left the cowl until last deliberately as to avoid body flex on the rotisserie. Once body is bolted to the chassis I know it's 100% aligned and the cowl being a structural piece of the ute needs to be welded then. I also wanted to do this so I can align doors as well on body. Cheers
@@BarnesysBuilds Sorry, my bad, I misunderstood when you said at 19:14 that you were going to leave the cowl panel until you painted the rest of the car, silly me naturally assumed that you were going to weld in the cowl after painting.
@@dicklang2756 yeah I meant leave the cowl painting until I paint the whole car. Once cowl is welded in I will prime it and sand then I will tape up and paint firewall door jams, inside door and inner guards radiator support etc. Then assemble guards etc and tape up remaining panels, quarter panels, roof, front guards, nose cone and cowl. Cheers