For those watching this video (and reading the comments) the Scanner Danner Premium subscription is an EXTREMELY superb value at $11 per month. It's an invaluable tool to becoming a more efficient, as well as a more profitable, diagnostician.
Good pls I will need help I have Peugeot 206 2007 model and I am having problem with the permanent fault communication with the column height ECU pls help me out
@@abdulganiyuhamza7810 we don't have Peugeot in our market in the US, so I wouldn't even have service info to look up even if I wanted to, however post this to my forum on my website www.scannerdanner.com, I have an international community and it is free to join. I'm sure we can help you
The way you figured the faulty coil with basic tools and your diagnostic confidence despite the quick checks, truly shows you're a master of your field. Thank you Paul for sharing your knowledge!
Paul, great video. Learned a few things about testing with Nitrogen. Quick tip, if you're like me where seeing close is getting difficult, get yourself a set of 1.5 bifocal safety glasses. You'll never go without them when you see the detail that you haven't been seeing. Mechanics have to see up close. I also use a head light, sometimes as well.
great video as usual Paul. it took me awhile to get over that. having to call the customer and telling them, "hey this happened and now this it what we need to do" type thing. Or even telling them its going to be 2 charges for the diagnosis on the check engine light, if the codes aren't related. I always felt bad having to do that. I guess really, I still feel bad but at least I'm getting paid now lol. I think I felt worse after the job was done and I realized I just did free work when I shouldn't have.
Thank you for your informative videos on AC leak detection, repair and recharge. Now I think I can put air conditioning into my 01 Pontiac Firebird, which hasn't had it for years now. THANK YOU AGAIN.
Found 2 major leaks and two small ones in the AC system on my '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Dash out evaporator replacement was one of them. Hose by the oil fill degrated causing one of the major leaks. After fixing those, the coil on the clutch for the compressor shorted out! $40 used compressor time. I see around 43°F at the vents! *It's a beater with a heater* and *AC as a bonus!* *256,000+ miles on a 4.7L!*
Love it😍, especially the No-Start part & part's store tour was a bonus for all of us, Loved the discussion on the failed coil while driving👍 Great video SD Thanks for educating us👍 Special thanks to cameraman Caleb😉 Stay Safe Guy's❤
Yes, you are saying emissivity correctly. Glad you mentioned this in the video because alot of people don't realize how much the incorrect setting will give you a false reading.
I knew the surface type was a factor with my infrared temp gun, I just never gave it a thought with the thermal camera (until someone mentioned it). It makes sense that the same variables would be in place with that camera as well. Thanks!
Being a Jeep makes this entire story believable. Most late model jeeps are junk in my opinion. I think a lot of people like them because there is a lot of aftermarket performance and off-roading parts available for them and they are an American Icon. Great video.
Your A/C videos were part of what gave me confidence to fix my mom's 2016 Civic, which uses R1234yf. We took it to the dealer last summer and they recharged and leak checked it, found no leaks, and charged us $300. This year I found that the low side JRA valve was leaking, based on the dye they put in and by using soapy water to confirm. I replaced the valve and recharged the system for about $120.
That is crazy that a coil would fail while repairing an AC issue. In part 1, the Jeep started when you checked to see if the compressor worked, and it did. But, here you started it again and the coil failed. How old were these coils? I can see how a customer would get upset after bringing the car to shop and now hear from the tech that the car won’t start and they have to pay more for another issue. Great content here.
Thank you so much.You are in my playlist every summer ! I remember when I started watching you - you just repaired the jeep Ac, sorry for this one. I highly appreciate the knowledge and skill.
Craziest Jeep problem I ever had I kept on getting codes and saying crank positioning sensors and map sensors I replaced everything it turned out to be the ignition coil wire cost $2.38 when the wires were replaced they weren't put back in the little slots where they belong and it was laying too close to the block , overheated the jeep was bucking and snorting and I drove 110 miles to a man I knew that would not give up. He did not give up until 2:00 in the morning the last thing he checked was the coil wire and that's what it was I said so what do you want I'll pay you whatever you want he said $30 I was blown away. He was just a good friend and still is today.
Good for him, but he certainly deserved more than $30 wouldn't you agree? I only mention this because this has been a hot topic lately. "Charging for diagnostic time" Caleb and I will be doing a podcast on this very subject soon.
25psi is a little low as mentioned. Families car, I would let it slide and keep an eye on it. Prob should have gotten a drier and expansion valve though
I tried to bleed cooling system on old Toyota Camry then next. It’s a no start but crank 🤣👎🏼. It was the fouled spark plug. Big gap and almost no tip. Great video.
I always learn something on this channel even if it's only what good Guys you are and we all do dumb shit and don't be afraid to admit it. This is one of my favorite channels and I'm always in a better mode after watching,Thanks Guys and God Bless.
Long ago. I had a Ford Fusion and I was getting a brake job done. During that time the master cylinder had crapped itself. My couple of hundreds of dollars for brakes was almost a $1000.00 at the end of the day. I was there when it happened so I knew that what they were saying was true. It’s hard because of the stigma that everything is a scam etc. The one thing I find that even with the internet, people don’t even research. I got a cheap scan tool back in 2011 for less then a bill and it helped a lot. Especially when it came to going to the mechanic and explaining things to them. My AC clutch went into a used car that I bought last year. Installing it was easy, it was the part that was expensive.
that can actually happen! The master cylinder (a high mileage one), when it is pushed to the floor (to bleed to brakes), can cause the internal seal to tear because it travels beyond the internal wear marks and then it will bleed down after that. This is why it is recommended when you bleed brakes to not let it go all the way to the floor on a high mileage car. Put one foot underneath the pedal to prevent it from going fully to the floor. Make sense?
Yeah, people always get suspicious when something fails either while it's in your hands, or while they're on their way home from your shop ... or even a week later. That would be a tough one there, especially if they're on a budget. Things like that happen to my own vehicles from time to time. I had bought a 2nd Volvo 940 to swap some better parts onto mine, and was going to sell it once I swapped what I needed ... but then I got cocky with my tree cutting skills, and decided I didn't need to move the car. Well, guess where the tree fell? So, I've got a 940 parts vehicle out back, LOL. Friggin tree landed right on the roof!! :D All my hoses and fittings are old school R12 units - no check valves in the hoses, and no shutoff valves on my quick-connects. I see the check valve makes things alot easier. I have a bunch of 30 pounders, so luckily I don't have to keep purging the line with multiple hookups. I did calibrate my 20 year old low side gauge the other day, after seeing you do that on yours a couple vids back. First time in 20 years I've had accuracy, lol! I didn't know it was that simple! I had to take my glass off, since there was no screwdriver hole in it. Not a big deal - it's threaded. Was quick and easy. Got all the same birds up here, lol. Caleb cracked me up with your face on the mourning dove at the end there! Bet he's happy to have cold air again. Just in time. We're in the 90's in MA! Speaking of that, I need to throw a shot of R12 in the Volvo. Thanks for the reminder! :)
We checked your AC, you have a bad coil (or coil wire open). A day in the life of a professional. We had a Nissan Versa the other day, he declined the brake work, came to pick it up and the blower motor didn’t work. He was pissed at us. Plus it’s under the windshield on top of the HVAC case. A tap with a long screwdriver, he was on his way, accusing us of sabotage, rofl.
Thank you for another great video. To change refrigerant cans, couldn't you simply close the valve on the can, unscrew the can and screw on a new can without fooling with the hoses ?
Also, to add to your warning. "Never ever ever charge to the high side," that is because you could have the can blow up in your face. No joke. Look at the bottom of the can, see that "smiley face mouth?" That is a safety factor. Blow out the bottom of the can instead of the whole thing. Some of the older cans had a rubber blowout Disc.
I did and AC repair last year and found and after recharge found a very slow leaking Schrader valve 😕 but on Amazon found a fairly low cost tool to change them with almost zero loss of refrigerant.
Murphy's Laws confirmed!!! Of course, the backup condenser is bad, of course you have to order another condenser and wait, then of course the truck fails to start, coil failure unrelated to A/C repair, and using pliers cause the tools can't be found, welcome to shade tree mechanic land!! HAHA. Working on my 2003 Escalade AC now, its been exactly the same kinda stuff. Small leaks, then electrical module issues, wiring diagram conundrums and etc. Bottom line, Paul your AC works, the truck runs and no laws were broken! And once again I learned something new, about Jeep coils! Huzzah!
That checkvalve in the yellow hose would let air in too your gauges. Think about the flow as it's higher pressure in the atmosphere than your hose when you have vacuumed it.
At 17:05 mm:ss, you are hammering on about THE ONE, MOST IMPORTANT THING, in service work, of ANY KIND. Managing customer's EXPECTATIONS!!!! An old American Indian woman said this to me: "Un-communicated, Mis-communicated or Poorly Defined EXPECTATIONS, are a SET UP for RESENTMENT!!" So, UP FRONT, you must SAY/TALK/SPELL OUT EXACTLY what YOU can do, will do, cannot do, will/won't do, will/won't except, etc.
First of all, you had a Jeep no start and the crank sensor was not the problem?!....wow lol. I was fully expecting no fire, no injector pulse. About dealing with a customer, I agree about the communication with a customer but I handle it differently. The customer would hear about this one when they came to pick the car up. It would be diagnosed and fixed without an extra charge but they would hear about it for sure. If there is some underlying conditions that potentially caused the failure, the recommendations would be made at that time and prices established. The “loss” you took due to unexpected failure would come back to you plus some. To be fair, A/C is some of the best book time in the business anyway. This is coming from a guy that works at a 12 man shop that usually has 120 cars on lot at a time with a 6 week wait time. Been there for the last 22 years and this would be how we handle it. I think it has to do a lot with building trust with customers. They don’t have to wonder if you’re pulling a fast one on them. A customer in this situation where you made an unexpected repair without an unexpected charge to them always leads to referrals (and sometimes lunch, donuts or cakes). Just my two cent, as usual I enjoy the videos. Always something to learn and you’re a good guy to learn from
Nice video like always and I think it’s time to sign up for the premium channel. Specially after my latest project required a lot of electrical trouble shooting. I did realize there are some basics missing.
Great video. That low side pressure didn't seem right -- I'm wondering if that gauge is N/G (no good). I know you adjusted it, but maybe it's junk. I have a cheap set of gauges, so just for the heck of it I screwed the hoses (one at a time) on to my car tire with a known 35psi just to see if the cheap gauges would agree or be way off.
I believe it was a combination of things with one being now very hot ambient Temps and two being the gauge is questionable at best. My RV low side was a little low too when we were done
I learned alot from your videos. Did quite a few ac jobs successfully. I have a question if someone is not tracking the volume of how much refrigerant you’re adding to the system. Whats the way to add refrigerant reading gauges. ? If you have a video on that let me know
Don't let your high side psi get too high lol Never was good at adding refrigerant based on pressures though I have done it. Too many variables to teach that method
Now that is one superawesome video!!!Coil dying on camera...and then you doing the diagnostic on it,the lowtech way in a flash..is just superb!!And the rest of the video is perfect also,mhahahaha birds are not real.LMAO :) My fridaynight was saved man :) Greeeetings from Norway ,Stefan :)
I don't think that little bit of air is a big issue IMO. Now since you didn't replace the drier it might be since your are letting in potential water vapor from the atmosphere and the one you have is fully saturated. However probably not a big deal with the circumstances in your particular case.
I agree that each job or diagnosis should be charged separately😏customers tend to think your suppose to fix everything while your doing one specific thing🙄
Discharge are was cold and still is after a few weeks. Ambient temp wasn't too high that day. I'm not worried about it at all, not to mention my gauge is suspect
@@ScannerDanner I wasn't saying it was broken still just that you are on a Ac kick and the next level is not only reading gauge pressure but also line temperature and then you know superheat and subcool
@@richardcranium5839 lol, could be, knowing how jHeeps love to run bad and puke raw fuel down the exhaust and many owners seem dumbfounded to anything beyond picking their nose and stuffing their faces
Bucket of warm (not hot) water is really old skool. The key is not to have water hotter than you can stand when putting your hand into it. I witnessed a technician,back in the 1970s, blow a can of R12 apart by using water at full temp from the tap.
the other key is to have the can open and relieving pressure while doing it, then temp of the water doesn't matter. There is no reason to put the can in hot water when it is closed off and cannot relieve psi right?
your not wrong, I mentioned the TXV too, but with good discharge air and not too high of ambient temps on this day, combined with a low side gauge I don't trust, I was good with the 25 psi low side psi. It's been a few weeks and we've had zero issues and still nice cold air Thanks!
Right on lol and if you ever wanna go bass fishing on Erie or the rivers you let me know, i am one of the top-rated pros and probably the best that has ever guided on Erie and 3 Rivers. I will send you my info you take a look and decide for yourself
So thats where those weird numbers for Fahrenheit comes from: from the correlation of the outside temp and the pressure of those rechargeable ac cans (made by metric gang)
Your channel is so valuable, i watched most of your videos containing the 5v curcuits and ac systems. I have an ac compressor that clicks on and off every 5 to 10 seconds, and cool air is coming out. Its 72 degrees and 80% humidity outside, my pressure will drop to 27 psi low and hit 200-205 high. My car is designed to turn the compressor off at 27 psi low side and 427 psi high side according to the service manual. The odd thing that I cant find an answer to is when i rev to 1500 rpm the high side hits in excess of 400 psi after a few cycles of the compressor. What causes the high side to be too high during revving? Edit: I just did a test drive with the guages on and the natural airflow through the condenser helped immensley with the high side psi, but the compressor still turns on and off rapidly. I think its low on refrigerant. What do you think?
at over 400 psi on the high side at 1500 rpm, I seriously doubt you are low on charge. Are your cooling fans running with those pressures being that high?
@@ScannerDanner thanks for the reply, Your videos tought me a lot. After tracing missing 5v ref at the high pressure sensor, finding all 3 sensor wires broken and repairing the harness, the compressor worked but cycled rapidly. I ended up bringing it to a professional because I wanted to get the right amount in and do a check. I had a schrader valve that was leaking. They said my compressor was starting to go bad but still works. I am now a life long sub! Thank you!
Great video man... is there any certain type of vacuum brand that you prefer to use for A/C work and is it possible to be able to over vacuum an A/C system ???
no particular vacuum pump my friend, this one I am using I bought based on the cost (cheap) and no, it is not possible to pull too much of a vacuum. In fact a perfect vacuum is not really attainable from a physics standpoint here on earth Thank you!
For those watching this video (and reading the comments) the Scanner Danner Premium subscription is an EXTREMELY superb value at $11 per month. It's an invaluable tool to becoming a more efficient, as well as a more profitable, diagnostician.
Thank you Dave!
I am also a member, and it is 100% worth it! His textbook is also really good!
Good pls I will need help I have Peugeot 206 2007 model and I am having problem with the permanent fault communication with the column height ECU pls help me out
@@abdulganiyuhamza7810 we don't have Peugeot in our market in the US, so I wouldn't even have service info to look up even if I wanted to, however post this to my forum on my website www.scannerdanner.com, I have an international community and it is free to join. I'm sure we can help you
Hear Hear, Dave. Been a member for a few years now - best $11 bucks I could ever spend. Best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands down!
I guess you could call the customer and say " I have good news, I saved you a towing bill". Great video Paul and Caleb. Thanks for all you guys do.
The way you figured the faulty coil with basic tools and your diagnostic confidence despite the quick checks, truly shows you're a master of your field. Thank you Paul for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks so much my friend!
I’m not a mechanic - I just dabble - but I’ve learned so much from both the free UA-cam channel and the paid premium channel. Thanks Paul!
Thank you Adrian!
Hope you never stop making these educational videos. I'm not a mechanic. Just work on my own. Thank You and Caleb for all that you do!! 🍻
Thanks Paul for the A/C videos. I am a self taught A/C tech so I highly appreciate these videos.
Paul, great video. Learned a few things about testing with Nitrogen. Quick tip, if you're like me where seeing close is getting difficult, get yourself a set of 1.5 bifocal safety glasses. You'll never go without them when you see the detail that you haven't been seeing. Mechanics have to see up close. I also use a head light, sometimes as well.
I have a pair now!
Whoop! Another AC video!!!!! I love these!!!
IT IS PASS MID NIGHT BUT NO OTHER CHOESE BUT TO STAY UP TO WATCH LIVE THANKS FOR SHARING AND GREAT JOB CALEB. CHEEERS FROM ONT, CANADA
thanks for hanging with me for a few tonight
U know that all caps means ur screaming right?
Nice bonus footage with the coil. It wasn't just you knowing the fundamentals it was your diagnostic path.
Thanks man
great video as usual Paul. it took me awhile to get over that. having to call the customer and telling them, "hey this happened and now this it what we need to do" type thing. Or even telling them its going to be 2 charges for the diagnosis on the check engine light, if the codes aren't related. I always felt bad having to do that. I guess really, I still feel bad but at least I'm getting paid now lol. I think I felt worse after the job was done and I realized I just did free work when I shouldn't have.
At least the ignition coil failed in your dads driveway, and it didn’t leave Caleb stranded somewhere
Not great it failed, but the bonus is like you say it failed on the driveway!
And Dad bought new one. 😁
Excellent content in both videos Paul and Caleb !! Bird calls to coolant to AC work to ignition wrapped together for great learning, thanks guys!!
Paul,Caleb, great video!!!!!!!!!! The bird at the end,fantastic!!!
Thank you for your informative videos on AC leak detection, repair and recharge. Now I think I can put air conditioning into my 01 Pontiac Firebird, which hasn't had it for years now. THANK YOU AGAIN.
Fabulous! Amazing editing 15:10 with the diagram and Paul's voiceover at the same time describing the system; spectacular. Good job guys!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
Found 2 major leaks and two small ones in the AC system on my '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Dash out evaporator replacement was one of them. Hose by the oil fill degrated causing one of the major leaks. After fixing those, the coil on the clutch for the compressor shorted out! $40 used compressor time. I see around 43°F at the vents!
*It's a beater with a heater* and *AC as a bonus!*
*256,000+ miles on a 4.7L!*
Just came across your channel looking for air conditioning tips. Love what your doing keeping it real. Keep up the good work
Thank you! And welcome
When you do repairs on the son's vehicle, that edits your videos, you know its gonna be a funny thumbnail!
Lol right?
As a huge bird lover, the thumbnail for this video gets a huge A++! It made me laugh hysterically!
I'll tell Caleb
Amazing video Paul. Thanks Caleb for the great camera work
Scanner Danner is the shizznizzle man you gotta lot of patience iv watched alot of your videos you good ninja
Ahh, functioning A/C!
Bravo, gents. Good to see Danner and Bo(Beau?) too 👍🏻👍🏻
Your kids are growin' up, Paul. Stay healthy, boys.
"Beau" 😉 they really are man, thanks!
Love it😍, especially the No-Start part & part's store tour was a bonus for all of us, Loved the discussion on the failed coil while driving👍
Great video SD Thanks for educating us👍
Special thanks to cameraman Caleb😉
Stay Safe Guy's❤
Yes, you are saying emissivity correctly.
Glad you mentioned this in the video because alot of people don't realize how much the incorrect setting will give you a false reading.
I knew the surface type was a factor with my infrared temp gun, I just never gave it a thought with the thermal camera (until someone mentioned it). It makes sense that the same variables would be in place with that camera as well. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner You are welcome!
Being a Jeep makes this entire story believable. Most late model jeeps are junk in my opinion. I think a lot of people like them because there is a lot of aftermarket performance and off-roading parts available for them and they are an American Icon. Great video.
Yeah, 26 years old is late model.
Great videos Scanner .very comprehensive and I’d feel comfortable doing that job with the extra knowledge I just got.
Your A/C videos were part of what gave me confidence to fix my mom's 2016 Civic, which uses R1234yf. We took it to the dealer last summer and they recharged and leak checked it, found no leaks, and charged us $300. This year I found that the low side JRA valve was leaking, based on the dye they put in and by using soapy water to confirm. I replaced the valve and recharged the system for about $120.
Hech yeah man, nice job
Always learn something from you Paul. Thanks for another great a/c+ video. 👍👍 Steve from Canada 🇨🇦
That is crazy that a coil would fail while repairing an AC issue. In part 1, the Jeep started when you checked to see if the compressor worked, and it did. But, here you started it again and the coil failed. How old were these coils? I can see how a customer would get upset after bringing the car to shop and now hear from the tech that the car won’t start and they have to pay more for another issue. Great content here.
Thank you so much.You are in my playlist every summer ! I remember when I started watching you - you just repaired the jeep Ac, sorry for this one. I highly appreciate the knowledge and skill.
Thanks again!
You do a great job with your videos, very educational.keep up the great work. I have learned a lot from your videos.
Maybe I've watched to much SMA but when you said NAPPA I heard "not a sponsor" in my head. Lol
Yeah, same here.
NAPPPEER
@@herni187 hey viewers and welcome back to the @South Main Auto channel
@@softwareengineer9217 one of my favorite lines is “what the thunder?!”
@@herni187 chevy thunder🌩🌩
A simple digital scale is great for finding out how much is in the can - just like they do with the big cans. 👍
I use a digital postal scale I bought from USPS years ago.
Craziest Jeep problem I ever had I kept on getting codes and saying crank positioning sensors and map sensors I replaced everything it turned out to be the ignition coil wire cost $2.38 when the wires were replaced they weren't put back in the little slots where they belong and it was laying too close to the block , overheated the jeep was bucking and snorting and I drove 110 miles to a man I knew that would not give up. He did not give up until 2:00 in the morning the last thing he checked was the coil wire and that's what it was I said so what do you want I'll pay you whatever you want he said $30 I was blown away. He was just a good friend and still is today.
Good for him, but he certainly deserved more than $30 wouldn't you agree? I only mention this because this has been a hot topic lately. "Charging for diagnostic time"
Caleb and I will be doing a podcast on this very subject soon.
He deserve much more I just feathered up in my wallet and that's all he wanted then he bought us breakfast
25psi is a little low as mentioned. Families car, I would let it slide and keep an eye on it. Prob should have gotten a drier and expansion valve though
Appreciate you Danner & son. 🇺🇸
This guy is like a god on fixing cars! lol Great video!
You're very good teacher your explanation is fantastic i thank you so much
As if that coil failed on camera! Insane. Such a quick diag too! Almost as fast as that coil failed, hahaha.
Ahhhhhh....spoiler alert needed. I been looking forward to seeing part 2 to find out why it didn't start.
I tried to bleed cooling system on old Toyota Camry then next. It’s a no start but crank 🤣👎🏼. It was the fouled spark plug. Big gap and almost no tip. Great video.
Ac videos are the best. Great video.Very informative.
I always learn something on this channel even if it's only what good Guys you are and we all do dumb shit and don't be afraid to admit it. This is one of my favorite channels and I'm always in a better mode after watching,Thanks Guys and God Bless.
Thanks so much!
Thanks a lot team Danner 🔧☺🔩👍
Long ago. I had a Ford Fusion and I was getting a brake job done. During that time the master cylinder had crapped itself. My couple of hundreds of dollars for brakes was almost a $1000.00 at the end of the day. I was there when it happened so I knew that what they were saying was true. It’s hard because of the stigma that everything is a scam etc. The one thing I find that even with the internet, people don’t even research. I got a cheap scan tool back in 2011 for less then a bill and it helped a lot. Especially when it came to going to the mechanic and explaining things to them. My AC clutch went into a used car that I bought last year. Installing it was easy, it was the part that was expensive.
that can actually happen! The master cylinder (a high mileage one), when it is pushed to the floor (to bleed to brakes), can cause the internal seal to tear because it travels beyond the internal wear marks and then it will bleed down after that. This is why it is recommended when you bleed brakes to not let it go all the way to the floor on a high mileage car. Put one foot underneath the pedal to prevent it from going fully to the floor. Make sense?
Expeditious diagnosis Paul!
Yeah, people always get suspicious when something fails either while it's in your hands, or while they're on their way home from your shop ... or even a week later. That would be a tough one there, especially if they're on a budget. Things like that happen to my own vehicles from time to time. I had bought a 2nd Volvo 940 to swap some better parts onto mine, and was going to sell it once I swapped what I needed ... but then I got cocky with my tree cutting skills, and decided I didn't need to move the car. Well, guess where the tree fell? So, I've got a 940 parts vehicle out back, LOL. Friggin tree landed right on the roof!! :D
All my hoses and fittings are old school R12 units - no check valves in the hoses, and no shutoff valves on my quick-connects. I see the check valve makes things alot easier. I have a bunch of 30 pounders, so luckily I don't have to keep purging the line with multiple hookups. I did calibrate my 20 year old low side gauge the other day, after seeing you do that on yours a couple vids back. First time in 20 years I've had accuracy, lol! I didn't know it was that simple! I had to take my glass off, since there was no screwdriver hole in it. Not a big deal - it's threaded. Was quick and easy.
Got all the same birds up here, lol. Caleb cracked me up with your face on the mourning dove at the end there! Bet he's happy to have cold air again. Just in time. We're in the 90's in MA! Speaking of that, I need to throw a shot of R12 in the Volvo. Thanks for the reminder! :)
We checked your AC, you have a bad coil (or coil wire open). A day in the life of a professional.
We had a Nissan Versa the other day, he declined the brake work, came to pick it up and the blower motor didn’t work. He was pissed at us. Plus it’s under the windshield on top of the HVAC case. A tap with a long screwdriver, he was on his way, accusing us of sabotage, rofl.
Thank for the big leak tip.
I have the master cool can tap valve for the manifold gage set. I use cans all the time
Thank you for another great video. To change refrigerant cans, couldn't you simply close the valve on the can, unscrew the can and screw on a new can without fooling with the hoses ?
No, the adapter i was using to attach to the can does NOT have a check valve in it
Always an excellent video, with humor thrown in for fun! Even IF potty mouth! hehe
Great job DANNER.
Also, to add to your warning. "Never ever ever charge to the high side," that is because you could have the can blow up in your face. No joke.
Look at the bottom of the can, see that "smiley face mouth?" That is a safety factor. Blow out the bottom of the can instead of the whole thing. Some of the older cans had a rubber blowout Disc.
@13:03 is that weed inside that backwood lmaooo jk. never saw someone smoke a backwood with Tabaco in it
😂
I did and AC repair last year and found and after recharge found a very slow leaking Schrader valve 😕 but on Amazon found a fairly low cost tool to change them with almost zero loss of refrigerant.
I recently found out about those also.
I put folded up shop rags on top of the battery positive often. It just seems really easy to hit sometimes.
definitely should have done that here lol
You could weigh your hvac fluid in from a larger 10 Lb container. Best to buy in larger quantities than the little cans.
Loved this video keep up the good work and God bless
Thanks for sharing Paul... Cheers.
Murphy's Laws confirmed!!! Of course, the backup condenser is bad, of course you have to order another condenser and wait, then of course the truck fails to start, coil failure unrelated to A/C repair, and using pliers cause the tools can't be found, welcome to shade tree mechanic land!! HAHA. Working on my 2003 Escalade AC now, its been exactly the same kinda stuff. Small leaks, then electrical module issues, wiring diagram conundrums and etc. Bottom line, Paul your AC works, the truck runs and no laws were broken! And once again I learned something new, about Jeep coils! Huzzah!
Lol forgot about where this one went! Thanks so much for the comment
That checkvalve in the yellow hose would let air in too your gauges. Think about the flow as it's higher pressure in the atmosphere than your hose when you have vacuumed it.
No sir, it does not. It is a spring loaded closed valve.
@@ScannerDanner Hi Paul isn't the valve in the yellow hose a dummy valve which pushes against a Schrader valve when needed?
At 17:05 mm:ss, you are hammering on about THE ONE, MOST IMPORTANT THING, in service work, of ANY KIND. Managing customer's EXPECTATIONS!!!!
An old American Indian woman said this to me:
"Un-communicated, Mis-communicated or Poorly Defined EXPECTATIONS, are a SET UP for RESENTMENT!!"
So, UP FRONT, you must SAY/TALK/SPELL OUT EXACTLY what YOU can do, will do, cannot do, will/won't do, will/won't except, etc.
Glad you are doing this. Thank you.
First of all, you had a Jeep no start and the crank sensor was not the problem?!....wow lol. I was fully expecting no fire, no injector pulse.
About dealing with a customer, I agree about the communication with a customer but I handle it differently. The customer would hear about this one when they came to pick the car up. It would be diagnosed and fixed without an extra charge but they would hear about it for sure. If there is some underlying conditions that potentially caused the failure, the recommendations would be made at that time and prices established. The “loss” you took due to unexpected failure would come back to you plus some. To be fair, A/C is some of the best book time in the business anyway. This is coming from a guy that works at a 12 man shop that usually has 120 cars on lot at a time with a 6 week wait time. Been there for the last 22 years and this would be how we handle it.
I think it has to do a lot with building trust with customers. They don’t have to wonder if you’re pulling a fast one on them. A customer in this situation where you made an unexpected repair without an unexpected charge to them always leads to referrals (and sometimes lunch, donuts or cakes).
Just my two cent, as usual I enjoy the videos. Always something to learn and you’re a good guy to learn from
Very wise words my friend. I believe my brother would handle this the same way as you described
Nice video like always and I think it’s time to sign up for the premium channel. Specially after my latest project required a lot of electrical trouble shooting. I did realize there are some basics missing.
thanks man, I appreciate that and I can certainly fill in those gaps for you
You got to buy the book, and sign up. It's an investment. You won't look back.
Thanks so much!
@@d.d4184 Yes I already bought the book awhile back.
@@cullenmiller8170 The book opened and looking at the classes online is a game changer. I work for myself, and this brought me on so much.
Thank you for your time
Great video. That low side pressure didn't seem right -- I'm wondering if that gauge is N/G (no good). I know you adjusted it, but maybe it's junk. I have a cheap set of gauges, so just for the heck of it I screwed the hoses (one at a time) on to my car tire with a known 35psi just to see if the cheap gauges would agree or be way off.
I believe it was a combination of things with one being now very hot ambient Temps and two being the gauge is questionable at best. My RV low side was a little low too when we were done
The thumbnails of your videos are priceless! LOL
Caleb is the master 🤣
For whatever reason, I recently bought a mopar coil for my 4.0 and it keep it under my back seat. One day I felt the need to have an spare.
I learned alot from your videos. Did quite a few ac jobs successfully. I have a question if someone is not tracking the volume of how much refrigerant you’re adding to the system. Whats the way to add refrigerant reading gauges. ? If you have a video on that let me know
Don't let your high side psi get too high lol
Never was good at adding refrigerant based on pressures though I have done it. Too many variables to teach that method
Epic editing.
Enjoyed that. Good work 👍😁
Now that is one superawesome video!!!Coil dying on camera...and then you doing the diagnostic on it,the lowtech way in a flash..is just superb!!And the rest of the video is perfect also,mhahahaha birds are not real.LMAO
:) My fridaynight was saved man :) Greeeetings from Norway ,Stefan :)
My man 🙂
But Dad it failed while you were working on it so it’s on your dime. Right?
Right.
Right? LMAO!!!
Just another day in Jeep life LOL!
funny shit Danner! I didn't know you were into comedy now!
I don't think that little bit of air is a big issue IMO. Now since you didn't replace the drier it might be since your are letting in potential water vapor from the atmosphere and the one you have is fully saturated. However probably not a big deal with the circumstances in your particular case.
Awesome outstanding job have a great time thanks
I agree that each job or diagnosis should be charged separately😏customers tend to think your suppose to fix everything while your doing one specific thing🙄
A txv maintains constant superheat so you need to check temperature of the suction line leaving Evap to Diagnose low suction pressure.
Discharge are was cold and still is after a few weeks. Ambient temp wasn't too high that day. I'm not worried about it at all, not to mention my gauge is suspect
@@ScannerDanner I wasn't saying it was broken still just that you are on a Ac kick and the next level is not only reading gauge pressure but also line temperature and then you know superheat and subcool
I think it's a rock dove not a morning dove nice video ty
never seen anyone service A/C and break the vehicle before. the exhaust rattle made it sound like rods hammering LOL
bricks in the cats loose rattling around???
@@richardcranium5839 lol, could be, knowing how jHeeps love to run bad and puke raw fuel down the exhaust and many owners seem dumbfounded to anything beyond picking their nose and stuffing their faces
Bucket of warm (not hot) water is really old skool. The key is not to have water hotter than you can stand when putting your hand into it. I witnessed a technician,back in the 1970s, blow a can of R12 apart by using water at full temp from the tap.
the other key is to have the can open and relieving pressure while doing it, then temp of the water doesn't matter. There is no reason to put the can in hot water when it is closed off and cannot relieve psi right?
Cool learning
im not an ac pro, but those ac pressures do look like theres a restriction in there. maybe the txv or the receiver drier. just my 2 cents.
your not wrong, I mentioned the TXV too, but with good discharge air and not too high of ambient temps on this day, combined with a low side gauge I don't trust, I was good with the 25 psi low side psi. It's been a few weeks and we've had zero issues and still nice cold air Thanks!
Great video!
Good job scanner danner India
The best master mecanic
Bill's rule someday's I will look at things and watch them break before my very eyes.
Would see those coils go bad after changing spark plugs, especially if customers wore them down too much, or wrong plugs.
Right on lol and if you ever wanna go bass fishing on Erie or the rivers you let me know, i am one of the top-rated pros and probably the best that has ever guided on Erie and 3 Rivers. I will send you my info you take a look and decide for yourself
hell yeah man, that's awesome! Do that
So thats where those weird numbers for Fahrenheit comes from: from the correlation of the outside temp and the pressure of those rechargeable ac cans (made by metric gang)
Made by metric gang😂
Nice job. Is there a way how to pull the oil out of the system without taking the compressor off thank you
the compressor doesn't hold the oil, it is layered throughout the entire system
@@ScannerDanner Ok that’s what I thought but how do I get it out? Simply blow air in low side and should come out of high side?My though thank you
Yea I was like a starving Ethiopian looking for a cookie, waiting for part two of the ac video. LoL 😂
Please make a video of imoblizer even though keyprogramin
Your channel is so valuable, i watched most of your videos containing the 5v curcuits and ac systems.
I have an ac compressor that clicks on and off every 5 to 10 seconds, and cool air is coming out. Its 72 degrees and 80% humidity outside, my pressure will drop to 27 psi low and hit 200-205 high. My car is designed to turn the compressor off at 27 psi low side and 427 psi high side according to the service manual. The odd thing that I cant find an answer to is when i rev to 1500 rpm the high side hits in excess of 400 psi after a few cycles of the compressor. What causes the high side to be too high during revving?
Edit: I just did a test drive with the guages on and the natural airflow through the condenser helped immensley with the high side psi, but the compressor still turns on and off rapidly. I think its low on refrigerant.
What do you think?
at over 400 psi on the high side at 1500 rpm, I seriously doubt you are low on charge. Are your cooling fans running with those pressures being that high?
@@ScannerDanner thanks for the reply, Your videos tought me a lot. After tracing missing 5v ref at the high pressure sensor, finding all 3 sensor wires broken and repairing the harness, the compressor worked but cycled rapidly. I ended up bringing it to a professional because I wanted to get the right amount in and do a check. I had a schrader valve that was leaking. They said my compressor was starting to go bad but still works.
I am now a life long sub! Thank you!
Well, at least you know where that sprinkler is now. Right where it's supposed to be. In a spare parts bucket.
At least the pro's go through trips on the struggle bus too.
Great video man... is there any certain type of vacuum brand that you prefer to use for A/C work and is it possible to be able to over vacuum an A/C system ???
no particular vacuum pump my friend, this one I am using I bought based on the cost (cheap) and no, it is not possible to pull too much of a vacuum. In fact a perfect vacuum is not really attainable from a physics standpoint here on earth
Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner thanks for responding, I really appreciate it
Great video guys thank you! …..Birds aren’t real 🤣😂🤣