I like your conversion, I did one of those a few years back...it's lots of work. I just wired up my new aluminum camper I built from scratch the other day. I used 2 x 212ah AGM batteries, Renogy 50 amp DC to DC charger w/ built in MMTP, 2x 100 watt Renogy solar panels and Anderson plugs running to the tow vehicle smart alternator, 8 lug fuse block, 1500 watt sine converter, and a 30 amp AC to DC shore power converter tied in. I'm running 6 puck LED lights, 2 x 8" computer exhaust fans, a water pump, 12v 24" LED TV, 12v DVD player, and a couple of USB plugs for charging laptop/ phones. I'm able to charge my house batteries while towing using the tow vehicle smart alternator using the DC To DC charger and when I get camping and the tow vehicle is off the solar automatically takes over for top off or trickle charge duties, at least I hope that's how it'll work. I think I went overkill on the 424 ah of AGM batteries, but as soon as I can I'll install a 100ah battle born lithium battery instead, but their pricey and will have to wait.
Anytime! The one thing I wish I did different was add more 110v plugs. I would have at least added one in the bedroom area and one in the front box by the door. It’s super hard to add wires after the fact 😂 I was able to pull the outside sheeting off and run a wire for my microwave but other areas wouldn’t be as easy
Try a diesel heater. Look diesel air heater all in one on ebay. Its what I put in my enclosed trailer. Good dry heat. Very low amp draw when running. Only has a higher amp draw when starting up and shutting down. But after start up it has a very low amp draw. I get over 12 hours of heat per tank full of diesel. You might also look at the other types of diesel air heaters. I went with the all in one as the tank and heater unit are all in the same enclosure. Just run 12v DC to it. Drill 2 holes for exhaust Outlet and fresh air inlet for the combustion chamber inside of the heater. My heater is a 5kw and on mid setting it will cook you out of my 7'× 14' enclosed trailer. Very good video and has helped me clean up my ac to dc and dc to ac. Links for your parts on amazon would help, but simple search found them. Thank you.
KLH1966 I actually did end up with a diesel heater! Sounds like the exact same thing as yours! Well roughly cause as you know there are a bunch of different brands offering them. I did that 5kw all in one setup! I’m impressed with the heat! The only thing I don’t love is how loud that fuel pump is. I’ve put some of that sound deadening mat around the enclosure but I’d still like it to be quieter. All in all it’s a small complaint! I’m glad my video helped ya with your electrical setup! I think I might do another one on that topic as more of a in depth tutorial. I linked some of the stuff I’ve got from amazon in my next video after this one. That’s a good idea though, I’ll add links in this description too. Thanks!
Anytime! Hope it helps! In one of my newer videos called “had to do a small renovation” I show some stuff I upgraded with the electrical system. Just FYI if you are researching components! 🤙🏼 cheers ua-cam.com/video/GR8nLeS0rTk/v-deo.html
I like your trailer. Excellent work on it. I like to convert one that you have. Please show me how you connected wires in your nice trailer. Thank you much.😀
wow one year later.. sorry! buttt, I do have a wiring diagram available for download on my website if you still need it! nvrsrndr.com/products/basic-rv-wiring-diagram
They make a transfer switch that will automatically cut that battery charging loop when the inverter is turned on, I put one in my rv because I got tired of going to the fuse box to turn the converter off when I turned the inverter on.
Interesting! Do you know what brand by chance? I’d like to look at it! Also after I made this video and already wired mine I discovered another way to wire a converter to any transfer switch and have that same effect! You basically just run the main power that feeds the the actual converter to the shore power leg before the switch. That way it will only have power when you are plugged into the generator or the shore power. If I used my converter more often I’d take the time to rewire it like that
Any chance you can show how the wiring goes inside the converter. I'm stumped an in the middle of my own project similar to yours an I have same converter
If you're looking for a simple wiring diagram for all the main components shown in this video.. Download your free pdf here! nvrsrndr.com/collections/plans-and-diagrams Also, there is an updated video where I show the new charge controller and solar panel I added. ua-cam.com/video/GR8nLeS0rTk/v-deo.html
The trailer turned out awesome! I wish I could hire you to help with cargo electrical wiring. I’m so lost when it comes to the electrical portion of my build.
Alain Lopez Thanks! It’s down to the small stuff now 🤘🏼 Are you just doing a 12 volt system or 110 as well? It might be pretty hard for me to personally help you but there are tons of good videos on here that will show you how to do just about anything you are confused on! I found a really good video on how that transfer switch works before I got one for myself, that’s more of a specialized item too
Great job my friend. I am presently sourcing out supplies for my rolling workshop trailer- inverter to charge batteries, and 12 volt lights over the work bench. Which solar panels did you use?..... disregard, I read down and found the answer!
Hey thanks man 🤘🏼 That sounds like a fun project! I only have experience with a couple of bigger inverters but I’ve been pretty happy with that giandel brand pure sine wave inverter I put in mine! The one I got has a solar charge controller built in. So depending how crazy you wanna get with the solar setup that might be something to look into!
Hi Austin I really liked your videos, very well explained. I have a couple of questions, I am really new at this so please bare with me. I purchased a 7x14 cargo trailer and it currently has solar, however, the previous owner only put 1 outlet inside. It has 1 12v battery, and 1500W Cen-Tech power inverter with a 3,000-watt surge. I would like to add 4 more outlets in the trailer and a couple of more LED lights. I am going to install an AC unit but that's it. No fridge, no TV, just 4 more outlets for Charging laptops, or cell phone, shaver, and possible shower. I do want to get another battery so i will have Parallel connections. The solar panel is so small its like a size of a picture frame mounted on top of the box in front of the trailer. Now I can plug the trailer to the RV outlet since it has a plugin from the outside. My question is do I need a bigger solar panel? Is my inverter big enough? I am only using the trailer 2 times per month. Thank you for your advice.
Charles Butler no problem! So generally it would be better to have a bigger solar panel than required for you battery bank because you won’t always get full power production depending on the weather and time of year etc. that way when your battery is discharged the panel can bring it back up to a full charge quicker. The charge controller (I’m assuming you have one of those? Or maybe the little panel is a maintainer?) will just not use the extra power. Another thing to consider is how many amp hours and what type of battery is in the trailer? If it’s a fairly low amp hour battery it might be worth it to buy two new rv deep cycles so you don’t over discharge while running the inverter. Basically it comes down to a lot of math if you want to figure out exactly how much power you need but for the most part you can oversize a little bit and call it good. One thing to keep in mind is that you will need to connect the ac to shore power or a generator. Even a big battery bank wouldn’t run an ac for very long. With a lot of unknowns in your build it’s hard for me to give you exact advice. however, you could check out a guy on here whose channel is called “diy solar with Will Prowse” he has tons of videos regarding batteries inverters and solar setups. I learned a lot from him!
Great job Austin! I don't see my original comment but, I wanted to know what hot water heater you went with? I have an electric one in my trailer but want the option for propane when in the woods. Thanks, and how's the trailer holding up? Any changes?
Very cool, PROPS!! I would like to do this. I could pick up a 38 foot car trailer for $500.00 a fifth wheel missing the roof. I can put A new roof on since I have materials I’ve never done electrical. I would like to turn the first 12 feet of the trailer into bedroom and kitchenette like you have. the rest of the space for my 69 Chevelle racecar. I was looking in the new trailers but they wanted 100 grand and I don’t want to pay that. Lol
Thanks Robert! If you can handle changing a roof you could defiantly do the electrical! That would be a pretty cool project! I like the idea of a 5th wheel vs bumper pull. It’s crazy how much they want for the new trailers huh?! You’ll have to send me some pic of you end up doing it!
Well I started out with the two 6 volts for better discharge capacity and life etc but I wanted to add more capacity. I threw the 12v in there so I wouldn’t have to add two more batteries. In theory it seemed like a good idea but I’ve reverted to just the tow 6v’s now due to different amp hour ratings
Yep! The inverter powers everything that the generator or shore power would! I just flip the breaker for the converter off unless I need it and am using a different power source
Do you have any wiring diagrams with current products to use? Looking to have a set up that will solar charge my battery but also be able to plug in from the house
Hey, Curtis here. I am impressed with your wiring capabilities. I was wanting to add a outlet to the outside of a van-camper, possibly even a USB connection. When setting outside it wouldd be nice to have. Whats your thought?
That’s actually a solid idea, I don’t know why but I didn’t put any outdoor outlets on my build and wish I did. The biggest thing with the camper van would be getting a good waterproof housing for the outlet and finding a way to mount it to the van itself. Ultimately you’d wanna go with a gfci where it’s gonna be outdoors. They make that type of outlet with the usb built in. Another thing to do is make sure you add a breaker between the inverter and your outlet Does that help?
@@AustinStout another question in one of the videos it shows a double transfer switch is that if you have a short plug in as well as an inverter and geni? Just confused on that part
I do have a transfer switch in line before the converter/breaker box. Shore power and the generator use one of with inputs and the inverter uses the other one. I’ve got a diagram and a whole guide to all the components linked in the description too if you need
you forgot to wire in the earth ground on your inverter. being that you're in a trailer you can just wire it to a body ground or battery neg. it's the small brass cylinder just under the outlets on the right side. obviously don't take my word for it but check your manual :)
Thanks! I’m pretty happy with them to this day and especially for the price. I got them from Amazon, around 20 bucks or so for two of them. They will be the “exterior lights” link in the description!
haha just enough to be dangerous 😂 That's sick you are getting started! Such a fun project imo! Make sure you run all your wires and add extra in case you want to add things down the road! I wish I had a couple more 110v outlets on mine but its too much of a pain to change it now.
yeah Im sure it could! Since I only have one couch in the back there is plenty of open floor space plus power to run it. Thinking of using an eclosed trailer for something like that??
Hmm...Your power setup is awesome! However in hindsight, don't u think it was a little overkill? I'm saying that, not as a hater but as a devil's advocate because I'm about to do (close to) the same thing in my 6x12! However, my budget can't handle "all what you have." It must've costed u quite a bit huh? I think I can do it less a few components though. Now that it's been a year since this video....how have you been liking your power system and what do you think you would have done different in your initial setup? I'll bet I can guess....! Good Luck! AE
Yes in some ways it’s a little overkill 😂 for the most part the only power I use is from the lights and my fridge which don’t take that much power. However it is pretty nice having more power than you need for most of the time! That way if it’s cloudy and you are camping for a long weekend there is less to worry about. If I had to trim off some components I wouldn’t do an inverter. If you don’t have and you don’t need a transfer switch. That would save on some wiring and about 380 bucks or so. Then I’d just run my microwave and tv with the generator. You could do less batteries as well and if you didn’t have as many batteries you could get away with less solar. Just look at what you will be running and what is a need vs a want! Now that I’ve had the system for longer and have since learned more about batteries I would have went either 12v batteries or at the very least started out with the right battery combo. I upgraded some things since this video and one of them is the little 12v battery. I shouldn’t have mixed it with the nice agm’s. Check out my other video to see what I changed with the electrical setup! Charge controller, another panel and that battery. Also I’m curious as to what you would have guessed I would have done different!? Cheers! 🤘🏼
Hey Austin - I know you mentioned everything you used is from Amazon. Do you happen to have a list of everything you purchased. I am planning on doing a similar system and that would make like much easier. Thanks!
As a matter of fact I do! Most of the stuff I used is linked in the description! If there is something specific you are having trouble finding let me know cause I may have missed it when making the list. That’s awesome you are gonna start a build! I had fun with mine 🤙🏼
I don’t have to no! The inverter will run everything in the trailer. The transfer switch is so I can easily plug in my generator or shore power if I want
I’m getting my 5th wheel TH setup with solar and an inverter for when i dont need the generator. My question is when i add the transfer switch to my system, since mine doesn’t have one and you have to physically plug it in to shore or the onboard gen, how would i hook up the inverter? Would it be on the generator side of the transfer switch? Or would i need to get one that is capable of all 3 sources? I figure i can use my factory converter still unless i need it all. Thanks for the help!
Ok so since you have to manually switch over power inputs all you have to do is install a transfer switch between that main input plug of your trailer and your breaker box. Find where the power comes into the breaker box, disconnect that wire and attatch it to the "shore power" input of the new transfer switch. Connect your inverter output cable to the "generator" input on the transfer switch. Then run a new wire from the output lug on the switch to the breaker box. (just like the original wire was ran) Hopefully that makes sense, its way more simple with a diagram! haha. You will still have to manually choose between shore or generator power like you are used to but the inverter will be automatic. Also words of caution! -> make sure all power is disconnected before messing with the wires. verify your work and connections before powering up. Make sure to buy the correct size of wire and transfer switch. For example: if your trailer plug is a 50 amp, Do Not buy a 30 amp transfer switch. or if the wire running to the breaker is 10 guage, dont replace it with 14 cause its cheaper. hahah Also, I made a video specifically covering transfer switches. Might help clear things up ua-cam.com/video/OSfqIb23ZPo/v-deo.html
mark anibas What specifically would you like to know about the inverter and transfer switch setup? Sizing, how to connect it? Another great resource is a guy on here whose channel is called DIY solar with will prowse. He goes over a lot of stuff relating to solar and inverter setups
mark anibas hey you’ve probably long since figured out your question about transfer switches and inverters but I have a new video up going over the basics of installing a setup like that 👍🏻
Isaac Delgado you can see the grey water tank and part of the install process in this video ua-cam.com/video/oSvPiMH0A5k/v-deo.html My trailer is a 8.5’ x 24’ with the 36” v nose The black water is in a custom built aluminum tank that sits inside right under the toilet. I wasn’t able to put it underneath due to the frame and plumbing
The inverter has standard plug outlets to provide the 110v power. So to connect the inverter to the 110v system in the trailer I have that black 3 strand wire going from the inverter right into the transfer switch. The black and red wires on the back of the inverter are for the 12v input. There is also a little grey phone jack wire that connects the remote switch in the kitchen to the inverter. That allows me to turn it on from there as you see towards the end of the video
Two 6 volt batteries in a series will provide deeper discharge/recharge capacity than an equal amp hour 12v battery! I need to make and updated video on this system but now I have changed my battery configuration for better lifespan. I shouldn’t have combined battery types as I did at the start of this build. So keep that in mind if you are building your system! Buy the same battery type and same amount hour rating
There are some calculations you can do to determine the solar panel watts to battery amp hours but I can’t remember what the formula is right off. Some people get super technical with it and calculate controller efficiency and average daylight etc. I went with the dumber method and put as many panels as I had room for on the roof and a charge controller that can handle a little more than the panels put out. Ideally you would want more panel than battery bank so your batteries can come up a full charge and recover quicker. Mine is 320 watts of solar to 300 amp hours of batteries and it works fine. I don’t run my batteries down very low tho. I read some forums on the topic so I’d search there if you wanna know exactly what to do! Also a guy on here by the channel name of “diy solar power with will prowse” is a good resource!
Steele Crandell Yes it will charge the batteries when plugged into shore power or if the generator is on! I’d have to look and see what brand of breakers I bought. I actually got them from Home Depot. One is a double 15amp breaker and the other is a single 20 amp I believe
Austin Stout I just watched your most video and I see you have 2 transfer switches did you update that since this video? I only see one in this set up.
Steele Crandell Sorry for the confusion! I havnt updated anything and still only have one transfer switch in my trailer. I don’t have an on board generator that is hard wired into my rv so there is no need for a second switch. The generator has to be plugged in just like I would plug into my house or at a campground. Does that make sense? So technically the generator and shore power both come into the same input on the transfer switch
Anything that youd change on the electrical system now that youve had it a while? Im just about to close up the walls on mine and figured Id ask now before it gets harder to change any runs. :-)
Austin Overman I would have added a couple more 110 outlets! I didn’t do any exterior outlets or any in that front bin. It would be nice to have if you need to plug something in outside! Other than that I’m pretty happy with the electrical system as it sits now!
Austin Stout thanks for the input. I’ve watched your other videos now. Drop me a Facebook pm if you ever wanna go hit some AF canyon single track. I’m just in highland.
Austin Overman No problem! I might have to take ya up on that! I’ve actually never been up af canyon on bikes. I did a loop up hobble creek last Sunday
The way I have it now with solar panels, inverter, transfer switch, charge controller, batteries and converter id say around 1400 bucks give or take plus wiring and other related things. Can you do it any cheaper? Yes. Coulda went with cheaper batteries, cheaper charge controller, no inverter, no transfer switch. But 🤷🏻♂️
Ya know, not as bad as you might think! I took it out for a few months but later reconnected that little battery. Figured since I had already bought that 3rd battery I might as well run it and see what happens. Took it camping last weekend and had plenty of power for my needs besides charging the surron. Sure it’s probably taken life off of the setup but I’ve gotten quite a few camping trips out of it 🤷🏻♂️😂 I’d be curious to do a test on all 3 and see what it says
Steele Crandell I have a domestic 15k btu rv unit on top. I thought about a mini split but then I’d have to find a place to mount the compressor unit and all that. The rooftop unit was a lot easier especially for how much I actually use it
Austin Stout yeah my trailer is not a v nose so I can put the unit there. And I’m also trying to avoid putting a hole that big in my roof and it seems like they are more durable units.
Steele Crandell yeah if you have a nice place to put one I think it would be a sweet setup that’s efficient! I didn’t cut out any braces or anything, just added a couple going front to back to make a square frame. But if the unit was any heavier I’d want to do more bracing on the roof beams than I did. It would be a different story on a trailer with a wood truss roof
Steve Bratten Yep! I have two 160 watt panels on the roof. I ended up with the odd combination of batteries because when I ordered the two 6 volts (bigger batteries) I didn’t think about the fact that when you connect them in series to make 12 volts the amp hour rating stays the same. When I ordered them I was thinking “ok two 200 amp hour batteries in series that’s 12 volts and 400 amp hours” 🤦🏻♂️ I didn’t really wanna have 4 batteries up there so I went with one more 100 ah 12 volt instead of two more 6 volts.
Question... I’m doing both 110 and 12v. How do I switch over to 110 (shore power) when everything I have, except a/c, is hooked up to 12v? What do I need?
Melinda Tippins So 110v ac (alternating current) and 12v dc (direct current) are two different types of power and require separate systems. You can power your 12v appliances and lights with 110v power if you use a converter. It’s the breaker box/battery charger unit found in almost all manufactured rv’s. Basically you will wire the converter to your batteries then connect the 110v power into the specified wires on the converter. From there the converter will provide a constant 12v power source through the 12v fuses. At the same time it will also charge your batterie(s). They come will a pretty easy to follow color coded wiring diagram as well. Check out the link in the description for “25 amp power center converter” Hopefully that answers your question?
@@Nerdum no problem! Yeah the converter charges and maintains the battery when 110 power is available and it also works as a distribution box that houses the 110v breakers. It also has the fuse block for the 12v. The one thing it doesn’t do is invert 12v to 110v. Does that answer your question?
Shawna Dohm I’ll add a link to them in the description here in a few but I have two 160 watt panels from Rich Solar (wired in series) feeding a 30 amp EPEVER MPPT charge controller. I went with that controller so I could configure the charge parameters to match the AGM battery setup I have. That one is also nice because you can get it in a kit with the little remote that shows everything you need to know about your solar setup
Hate seeing residential solid wire "romex" in RV applications. The constant movement and flexing can cause the conductors to break. A better option would have been to use marine "romex". While more money upfront, the stranded and tinned conductors are safer in these environments.
John Simanella John Simanella hmm that’s an interesting point, I didn’t realize they had a marine version! Good to know! I ran that solid wire throughout the trailer for the 110 side of throngs because that’s what was specified in the manual for the air conditioner. Everything is hooked down pretty solid before the plugs or conductors to where there shouldn’t be any or very little movement that way. The wires going into the transfer switch are held in the box by those clamp connectors. Think there would be any problems down the road that way?
@@AustinStout I believe RV manufacturers are using solid wire as a cost cutting measure. That would never fly with boat manufacturers. If it were me, I'd avoid it at all cost. For the small amount you need, it's money well spent. For the record, I've been an electrician for 35 years, and I've rewired my fair share of boats.
John Simanella Those guys are always doin stuff as cheap and as fast as they can.. 😂 Thanks for the info though! It’s good to hear some insider info from an experienced a guy in the trade!
single 12 volt connected to pair of 6's... more than likely DIFFERENT amperage output ( batteries - 6's are prob around 245 and the 12 around 105 ? ) ... NOT a wise thing to do.....
Yeah the numbers are a little off 200/100 but defiantly different. I didn’t know that was a problem when I bought the 12v to go with the system.. had it all installed and goin for a while before I found that out 😅 I mean, defiantly not good under high amp draw but where I usually have a small load (led lights, pump, and the diesel heater) it shouldn’t be thaaaat bad. Or is it? I measured the amp draw under load and it’s more from the pair of 6’s but not a ton. What do you think?
@@AustinStout Would be better if you seperated the different batteries from each lother . The LOWER amp batts WILL draw off the higher and thus "weaken" them .
Dude NEVER mix and match batteries like that the discharge rates and active capacitance will fight each other all day lng - your likely to kill something in a bad way!
Haha yep they will! I didn’t realize that at this point in the build, shoulda done more research but I thought I knew! 🤷🏻♂️ She’s been cleared up for a while now luckily. You can see a quick overview of the setup towards the end of my newest trailer video!
@@AustinStout Yeah - I'm an electrical engineer for over 30+ years, but a newbe' to the Rv WORLD - my other concern is you may be inadvertently giving bad advice to others that don't know better and it's going to give them a bad day, likely when they need it most of all.
A. All of you wiring is undersized except maybe the solar panel wiring, The wires from your charge controller to battery are super small and not fused B. You need to install fuses-You simply cannot skip fuses without risking fire. C. Your Batteries are not going to charge properly because they are not matched. Im really not trying to be a jerk but it is your safety that I am concerned about. Fuses belong as close to the source of power as possible and must be below the capacity of the system, they must be the weakest link. You did a lot of stuff right but don't gamble with your life or your build.
Your RV Freedom thanks for the info and concern. I should have researched more on a couple topics. Those wires from the charge controller were in fact undersized in this video. I no longer have that charge controller or wiring setup though! I also didn’t realize the battery situation was messed up at the time of building this. But I now have a matching setup. The rest of the wires are correctly sized for the current and length of run to the load. They are also all fused inside the controller
Austin Stout that’s some good news. There should be a fuse on the positive lead between your battery and your inverter. Ideally a terminal fuse would be the best choice. If some metal item were to cut through the insulation on that lead, creating a short to ground, then you have a fire. If the fuse is at the terminal, there is no unprotected length of wire, so you simply blow a fuse and nobody dies. Same reason that a dc fuse block is better than in line fuses. Fuses belong as close to the source of power as possible. Best of luck!
I like your conversion, I did one of those a few years back...it's lots of work. I just wired up my new aluminum camper I built from scratch the other day. I used 2 x 212ah AGM batteries, Renogy 50 amp DC to DC charger w/ built in MMTP, 2x 100 watt Renogy solar panels and Anderson plugs running to the tow vehicle smart alternator, 8 lug fuse block, 1500 watt sine converter, and a 30 amp AC to DC shore power converter tied in. I'm running 6 puck LED lights, 2 x 8" computer exhaust fans, a water pump, 12v 24" LED TV, 12v DVD player, and a couple of USB plugs for charging laptop/ phones. I'm able to charge my house batteries while towing using the tow vehicle smart alternator using the DC To DC charger and when I get camping and the tow vehicle is off the solar automatically takes over for top off or trickle charge duties, at least I hope that's how it'll work. I think I went overkill on the 424 ah of AGM batteries, but as soon as I can I'll install a 100ah battle born lithium battery instead, but their pricey and will have to wait.
Hey i'd love to see you sketch on schematic of you build and possibly products you used
So freaken impressive. Nice to have electrical engineering knowledge, and be able to pull off something like that. Great work👏👏👏👏
That's all. Cool 😎 you did good thanks
That gave me a great starting point for my electrical needs....very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Anytime! The one thing I wish I did different was add more 110v plugs. I would have at least added one in the bedroom area and one in the front box by the door. It’s super hard to add wires after the fact 😂 I was able to pull the outside sheeting off and run a wire for my microwave but other areas wouldn’t be as easy
Nice set up
Thanks! I’ve changed a few things since this video but most of it is still all the same and goin strong!
Try a diesel heater. Look diesel air heater all in one on ebay. Its what I put in my enclosed trailer. Good dry heat. Very low amp draw when running. Only has a higher amp draw when starting up and shutting down. But after start up it has a very low amp draw. I get over 12 hours of heat per tank full of diesel. You might also look at the other types of diesel air heaters. I went with the all in one as the tank and heater unit are all in the same enclosure. Just run 12v DC to it. Drill 2 holes for exhaust Outlet and fresh air inlet for the combustion chamber inside of the heater. My heater is a 5kw and on mid setting it will cook you out of my 7'× 14' enclosed trailer. Very good video and has helped me clean up my ac to dc and dc to ac. Links for your parts on amazon would help, but simple search found them. Thank you.
KLH1966 I actually did end up with a diesel heater! Sounds like the exact same thing as yours! Well roughly cause as you know there are a bunch of different brands offering them. I did that 5kw all in one setup! I’m impressed with the heat! The only thing I don’t love is how loud that fuel pump is. I’ve put some of that sound deadening mat around the enclosure but I’d still like it to be quieter. All in all it’s a small complaint! I’m glad my video helped ya with your electrical setup! I think I might do another one on that topic as more of a in depth tutorial. I linked some of the stuff I’ve got from amazon in my next video after this one. That’s a good idea though, I’ll add links in this description too. Thanks!
Great video, excellent explanations, nice clean install!! Class act! Enjoy that trailer! 👍👍
Thank you! I appreciate it! I’ve have a lot of fun with this trailer so far! Building it and using it 🤷🏻♂️
Nice job!
Thanks!
Other than that, clean build bruh
bro im inspired plan to do this for myself🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑
Thanks for showing your set up, great info.
Anytime! Hope it helps! In one of my newer videos called “had to do a small renovation” I show some stuff I upgraded with the electrical system. Just FYI if you are researching components! 🤙🏼 cheers
ua-cam.com/video/GR8nLeS0rTk/v-deo.html
I am in the process doing the same to a 20 foot Lark V-Nose. I have 2 of the 100watt solar panels from Amazon.
Ronin8451 Sweet! The solar panels are a must! Makes camping so much nicer! I went with one single 160 watt panel on mine.
Full Sine always Daniel san!!!!!
I like your trailer. Excellent work on it. I like to convert one that you have. Please show me how you connected wires in your nice trailer. Thank you much.😀
Awesome job!
Mind blown
Austin, nice job. Would you happen to have a wiring diagram you can share showing all the connection points too and from? Thx.
Second this!
@@kevinhickman1989 Third this!
wow one year later.. sorry! buttt, I do have a wiring diagram available for download on my website if you still need it! nvrsrndr.com/products/basic-rv-wiring-diagram
Looks great !
They make a transfer switch that will automatically cut that battery charging loop when the inverter is turned on, I put one in my rv because I got tired of going to the fuse box to turn the converter off when I turned the inverter on.
Interesting! Do you know what brand by chance? I’d like to look at it! Also after I made this video and already wired mine I discovered another way to wire a converter to any transfer switch and have that same effect! You basically just run the main power that feeds the the actual converter to the shore power leg before the switch. That way it will only have power when you are plugged into the generator or the shore power. If I used my converter more often I’d take the time to rewire it like that
Any chance you can show how the wiring goes inside the converter. I'm stumped an in the middle of my own project similar to yours an I have same converter
If you're looking for a simple wiring diagram for all the main components shown in this video.. Download your free pdf here!
nvrsrndr.com/collections/plans-and-diagrams
Also, there is an updated video where I show the new charge controller and solar panel I added. ua-cam.com/video/GR8nLeS0rTk/v-deo.html
The trailer turned out awesome! I wish I could hire you to help with cargo electrical wiring. I’m so lost when it comes to the electrical portion of my build.
Alain Lopez Thanks! It’s down to the small stuff now 🤘🏼 Are you just doing a 12 volt system or 110 as well? It might be pretty hard for me to personally help you but there are tons of good videos on here that will show you how to do just about anything you are confused on! I found a really good video on how that transfer switch works before I got one for myself, that’s more of a specialized item too
Austin Stout, I’m doing 12v and 110... I’ll have to really study up on the electrical. Keep up the good work, and keep us posted on your progress. 👍🏽
Great job my friend. I am presently sourcing out supplies for my rolling workshop trailer- inverter to charge batteries, and 12 volt lights over the work bench. Which solar panels did you use?..... disregard, I read down and found the answer!
Hey thanks man 🤘🏼 That sounds like a fun project! I only have experience with a couple of bigger inverters but I’ve been pretty happy with that giandel brand pure sine wave inverter I put in mine! The one I got has a solar charge controller built in. So depending how crazy you wanna get with the solar setup that might be something to look into!
Split unit brother for your heating and cooling
Hi Austin I really liked your videos, very well explained. I have a couple of questions, I am really new at this so please bare with me. I purchased a 7x14 cargo trailer and it currently has solar, however, the previous owner only put 1 outlet inside. It has 1 12v battery, and 1500W Cen-Tech power inverter with a 3,000-watt surge. I would like to add 4 more outlets in the trailer and a couple of more LED lights. I am going to install an AC unit but that's it. No fridge, no TV, just 4 more outlets for Charging laptops, or cell phone, shaver, and possible shower. I do want to get another battery so i will have Parallel connections. The solar panel is so small its like a size of a picture frame mounted on top of the box in front of the trailer. Now I can plug the trailer to the RV outlet since it has a plugin from the outside. My question is do I need a bigger solar panel? Is my inverter big enough? I am only using the trailer 2 times per month. Thank you for your advice.
Charles Butler no problem! So generally it would be better to have a bigger solar panel than required for you battery bank because you won’t always get full power production depending on the weather and time of year etc. that way when your battery is discharged the panel can bring it back up to a full charge quicker. The charge controller (I’m assuming you have one of those? Or maybe the little panel is a maintainer?) will just not use the extra power. Another thing to consider is how many amp hours and what type of battery is in the trailer? If it’s a fairly low amp hour battery it might be worth it to buy two new rv deep cycles so you don’t over discharge while running the inverter. Basically it comes down to a lot of math if you want to figure out exactly how much power you need but for the most part you can oversize a little bit and call it good. One thing to keep in mind is that you will need to connect the ac to shore power or a generator. Even a big battery bank wouldn’t run an ac for very long. With a lot of unknowns in your build it’s hard for me to give you exact advice. however, you could check out a guy on here whose channel is called “diy solar with Will Prowse” he has tons of videos regarding batteries inverters and solar setups. I learned a lot from him!
Great job Austin! I don't see my original comment but, I wanted to know what hot water heater you went with? I have an electric one in my trailer but want the option for propane when in the woods. Thanks, and how's the trailer holding up? Any changes?
How can I get your wiring diagram, I’m currently building a trailer right now. The electric side of things I’m still new at.
Shoot me an email and I’ll send it to ya, I don’t have the website up right now
Very cool, PROPS!! I would like to do this. I could pick up a 38 foot car trailer for $500.00 a fifth wheel missing the roof. I can put A new roof on since I have materials I’ve never done electrical. I would like to turn the first 12 feet of the trailer into bedroom and kitchenette like you have. the rest of the space for my 69 Chevelle racecar. I was looking in the new trailers but they wanted 100 grand and I don’t want to pay that. Lol
Thanks Robert! If you can handle changing a roof you could defiantly do the electrical! That would be a pretty cool project! I like the idea of a 5th wheel vs bumper pull. It’s crazy how much they want for the new trailers huh?! You’ll have to send me some pic of you end up doing it!
Why the mix between 6V and 12v batteries? Just curious why not use two 12V batts in parallel?
Well I started out with the two 6 volts for better discharge capacity and life etc but I wanted to add more capacity. I threw the 12v in there so I wouldn’t have to add two more batteries. In theory it seemed like a good idea but I’ve reverted to just the tow 6v’s now due to different amp hour ratings
Are all the outlets powered by the inverter when ur on 12v ? I'm trying to do the same thing and confused on a few things
Yep! The inverter powers everything that the generator or shore power would! I just flip the breaker for the converter off unless I need it and am using a different power source
Do you have any wiring diagrams with current products to use? Looking to have a set up that will solar charge my battery but also be able to plug in from the house
I don’t right now but maybe I’ll try and draw something up because a lot of people ask
How much wire did you use
So did you wire it up to run off batteries and or a geni??
It can use either or. Inverter for when you don’t have the generator on or plugged into the grid. Still goin strong too!
Hey, Curtis here. I am impressed with your wiring capabilities. I was wanting to add a outlet to the outside of a van-camper, possibly even a USB connection. When setting outside it wouldd be nice to have. Whats your thought?
That’s actually a solid idea, I don’t know why but I didn’t put any outdoor outlets on my build and wish I did. The biggest thing with the camper van would be getting a good waterproof housing for the outlet and finding a way to mount it to the van itself. Ultimately you’d wanna go with a gfci where it’s gonna be outdoors. They make that type of outlet with the usb built in. Another thing to do is make sure you add a breaker between the inverter and your outlet
Does that help?
So your converter basically acts as a breaker panel but will turn the dc to ac and vise versa
Yeah, basically. It doesn’t turn dc into ac though. You need an inverter for that
The converter just charges the batteries and converts ac to dc
@@AustinStout another question in one of the videos it shows a double transfer switch is that if you have a short plug in as well as an inverter and geni? Just confused on that part
Shore*
I do have a transfer switch in line before the converter/breaker box. Shore power and the generator use one of with inputs and the inverter uses the other one. I’ve got a diagram and a whole guide to all the components linked in the description too if you need
Does your "Charge Controller "
Charge your batteries from Shore power and Solar power also??
The charge controller only charges with power from the solar panels but the converter will charge with power from the generator or the shore power!
you forgot to wire in the earth ground on your inverter. being that you're in a trailer you can just wire it to a body ground or battery neg. it's the small brass cylinder just under the outlets on the right side. obviously don't take my word for it but check your manual :)
Mage Alexstra you’re right! I should have looked into that when I was wiring it but neglected it. I’ll do that! Thank you!
would help with better explanation of what each component does. Inverter/converter, I don't know what each does
I have a trailer I want to have electric done what do I do
Are you looking to have someone do it for you or a starting point for components?
I like the outside, side and ramp lights! Where did you source them? Thanks
Thanks! I’m pretty happy with them to this day and especially for the price. I got them from Amazon, around 20 bucks or so for two of them. They will be the “exterior lights” link in the description!
I'm making a cabin out of a semi trailer
That’s sick! Putting in on your land or what?
Do you have a diagram for all that?
Not a legit electrical one. I could get a simple one though if it would help!
That would be great. I don’t have much electrical knowledge just enough to be dangerous. Just started my conversion. Putting in the insulation now.
haha just enough to be dangerous 😂 That's sick you are getting started! Such a fun project imo! Make sure you run all your wires and add extra in case you want to add things down the road! I wish I had a couple more 110v outlets on mine but its too much of a pain to change it now.
I made a little diagram for ya! I Added it as a free download on my site! nvrsrndr.com/products/basic-rv-wiring-diagram
I know this sounds nuts, but can you also use your trailer to house a portable dyalisis machine?
yeah Im sure it could! Since I only have one couch in the back there is plenty of open floor space plus power to run it. Thinking of using an eclosed trailer for something like that??
@@AustinStout yes. I need to get someone to do it. I assume that this will cost a lot.
Hmm...Your power setup is awesome! However in hindsight, don't u think it was a little overkill? I'm saying that, not as a hater but as a devil's advocate because I'm about to do (close to) the same thing in my 6x12! However, my budget can't handle "all what you have." It must've costed u quite a bit huh? I think I can do it less a few components though.
Now that it's been a year since this video....how have you been liking your power system and what do you think you would have done different in your initial setup? I'll bet I can guess....!
Good Luck!
AE
Yes in some ways it’s a little overkill 😂 for the most part the only power I use is from the lights and my fridge which don’t take that much power. However it is pretty nice having more power than you need for most of the time! That way if it’s cloudy and you are camping for a long weekend there is less to worry about. If I had to trim off some components I wouldn’t do an inverter. If you don’t have and you don’t need a transfer switch. That would save on some wiring and about 380 bucks or so. Then I’d just run my microwave and tv with the generator. You could do less batteries as well and if you didn’t have as many batteries you could get away with less solar. Just look at what you will be running and what is a need vs a want!
Now that I’ve had the system for longer and have since learned more about batteries I would have went either 12v batteries or at the very least started out with the right battery combo. I upgraded some things since this video and one of them is the little 12v battery. I shouldn’t have mixed it with the nice agm’s. Check out my other video to see what I changed with the electrical setup! Charge controller, another panel and that battery.
Also I’m curious as to what you would have guessed I would have done different!?
Cheers! 🤘🏼
Hey Austin - I know you mentioned everything you used is from Amazon. Do you happen to have a list of everything you purchased. I am planning on doing a similar system and that would make like much easier. Thanks!
As a matter of fact I do! Most of the stuff I used is linked in the description! If there is something specific you are having trouble finding let me know cause I may have missed it when making the list. That’s awesome you are gonna start a build! I had fun with mine 🤙🏼
So you don’t need any shore power to run this
I don’t have to no! The inverter will run everything in the trailer. The transfer switch is so I can easily plug in my generator or shore power if I want
I’m getting my 5th wheel TH setup with solar and an inverter for when i dont need the generator. My question is when i add the transfer switch to my system, since mine doesn’t have one and you have to physically plug it in to shore or the onboard gen, how would i hook up the inverter? Would it be on the generator side of the transfer switch? Or would i need to get one that is capable of all 3 sources? I figure i can use my factory converter still unless i need it all. Thanks for the help!
Ok so since you have to manually switch over power inputs all you have to do is install a transfer switch between that main input plug of your trailer and your breaker box. Find where the power comes into the breaker box, disconnect that wire and attatch it to the "shore power" input of the new transfer switch. Connect your inverter output cable to the "generator" input on the transfer switch. Then run a new wire from the output lug on the switch to the breaker box. (just like the original wire was ran) Hopefully that makes sense, its way more simple with a diagram! haha. You will still have to manually choose between shore or generator power like you are used to but the inverter will be automatic. Also words of caution! -> make sure all power is disconnected before messing with the wires. verify your work and connections before powering up. Make sure to buy the correct size of wire and transfer switch. For example: if your trailer plug is a 50 amp, Do Not buy a 30 amp transfer switch. or if the wire running to the breaker is 10 guage, dont replace it with 14 cause its cheaper. hahah
Also, I made a video specifically covering transfer switches. Might help clear things up ua-cam.com/video/OSfqIb23ZPo/v-deo.html
Can I get in about transfer switch and inverter. I’m new to this having trouble figuring what direction to go. I love your setup
mark anibas What specifically would you like to know about the inverter and transfer switch setup? Sizing, how to connect it?
Another great resource is a guy on here whose channel is called DIY solar with will prowse. He goes over a lot of stuff relating to solar and inverter setups
mark anibas hey you’ve probably long since figured out your question about transfer switches and inverters but I have a new video up going over the basics of installing a setup like that 👍🏻
Austin Stout
Yes I have some questions. Let me check back with you in a bit. Still need a couple more parts.
Austin Stout
Can you send me the link covering the basics.
mark anibas ua-cam.com/video/OSfqIb23ZPo/v-deo.html here ya go! Lemme know if that helps or not
What did you do for gray water tanks and black water? How big is your trailer?
Isaac Delgado you can see the grey water tank and part of the install process in this video ua-cam.com/video/oSvPiMH0A5k/v-deo.html
My trailer is a 8.5’ x 24’ with the 36” v nose
The black water is in a custom built aluminum tank that sits inside right under the toilet. I wasn’t able to put it underneath due to the frame and plumbing
How much did all that cost bro
I can’t remember now 😂
What is plugged into your inverter? Have a hard time with some things with what is connected to what
The inverter has standard plug outlets to provide the 110v power. So to connect the inverter to the 110v system in the trailer I have that black 3 strand wire going from the inverter right into the transfer switch. The black and red wires on the back of the inverter are for the 12v input. There is also a little grey phone jack wire that connects the remote switch in the kitchen to the inverter. That allows me to turn it on from there as you see towards the end of the video
just curious, is 2 x6v in series better than one 12 v?
Thanks for the video...looks great
Two 6 volt batteries in a series will provide deeper discharge/recharge capacity than an equal amp hour 12v battery! I need to make and updated video on this system but now I have changed my battery configuration for better lifespan. I shouldn’t have combined battery types as I did at the start of this build. So keep that in mind if you are building your system! Buy the same battery type and same amount hour rating
Hey Austin, how did you determine how many watts for the panel and inverter? I want to charge LIPO batteries at RC flying field. Thanks.
There are some calculations you can do to determine the solar panel watts to battery amp hours but I can’t remember what the formula is right off. Some people get super technical with it and calculate controller efficiency and average daylight etc. I went with the dumber method and put as many panels as I had room for on the roof and a charge controller that can handle a little more than the panels put out. Ideally you would want more panel than battery bank so your batteries can come up a full charge and recover quicker. Mine is 320 watts of solar to 300 amp hours of batteries and it works fine. I don’t run my batteries down very low tho. I read some forums on the topic so I’d search there if you wanna know exactly what to do! Also a guy on here by the channel name of “diy solar power with will prowse” is a good resource!
Will this set up charge your batteries when connected to shore/ generator power? Also do you have a link to the breakers you used?
Steele Crandell Yes it will charge the batteries when plugged into shore power or if the generator is on! I’d have to look and see what brand of breakers I bought. I actually got them from Home Depot. One is a double 15amp breaker and the other is a single 20 amp I believe
Austin Stout I just watched your most video and I see you have 2 transfer switches did you update that since this video? I only see one in this set up.
Steele Crandell Sorry for the confusion! I havnt updated anything and still only have one transfer switch in my trailer. I don’t have an on board generator that is hard wired into my rv so there is no need for a second switch. The generator has to be plugged in just like I would plug into my house or at a campground. Does that make sense? So technically the generator and shore power both come into the same input on the transfer switch
Austin Stout ok cool cool that is the same set up I’m looking for as well. Apologies for all the questions. If you ever in Moab hit me up.
Steele Crandell hey no worries! Glad I could help! Oh really? I might be down there next month to ride mountain bikes and rzrs!
Anything that youd change on the electrical system now that youve had it a while? Im just about to close up the walls on mine and figured Id ask now before it gets harder to change any runs. :-)
Austin Overman I would have added a couple more 110 outlets! I didn’t do any exterior outlets or any in that front bin. It would be nice to have if you need to plug something in outside! Other than that I’m pretty happy with the electrical system as it sits now!
Austin Stout thanks for the input. I’ve watched your other videos now. Drop me a Facebook pm if you ever wanna go hit some AF canyon single track. I’m just in highland.
Austin Overman No problem! I might have to take ya up on that! I’ve actually never been up af canyon on bikes. I did a loop up hobble creek last Sunday
Austin Stout i just did a night run up hobblecreek Monday night. I sent you a FB friend request.
How much did that setup cost?
The way I have it now with solar panels, inverter, transfer switch, charge controller, batteries and converter id say around 1400 bucks give or take plus wiring and other related things. Can you do it any cheaper? Yes. Coulda went with cheaper batteries, cheaper charge controller, no inverter, no transfer switch. But 🤷🏻♂️
Tell us, 3 years later, how quickly did the mismatched amp hour battery game work out for you?
Ya know, not as bad as you might think! I took it out for a few months but later reconnected that little battery. Figured since I had already bought that 3rd battery I might as well run it and see what happens. Took it camping last weekend and had plenty of power for my needs besides charging the surron. Sure it’s probably taken life off of the setup but I’ve gotten quite a few camping trips out of it 🤷🏻♂️😂 I’d be curious to do a test on all 3 and see what it says
What ac do you think you will run? I’ve been looking into a mini split. I think I could run it off a similar set up.
Steele Crandell I have a domestic 15k btu rv unit on top. I thought about a mini split but then I’d have to find a place to mount the compressor unit and all that. The rooftop unit was a lot easier especially for how much I actually use it
Austin Stout yeah my trailer is not a v nose so I can put the unit there. And I’m also trying to avoid putting a hole that big in my roof and it seems like they are more durable units.
Steele Crandell yeah if you have a nice place to put one I think it would be a sweet setup that’s efficient! I didn’t cut out any braces or anything, just added a couple going front to back to make a square frame. But if the unit was any heavier I’d want to do more bracing on the roof beams than I did. It would be a different story on a trailer with a wood truss roof
Do you have solar?
Why the combination of batteries?
Steve Bratten Yep! I have two 160 watt panels on the roof. I ended up with the odd combination of batteries because when I ordered the two 6 volts (bigger batteries) I didn’t think about the fact that when you connect them in series to make 12 volts the amp hour rating stays the same. When I ordered them I was thinking “ok two 200 amp hour batteries in series that’s 12 volts and 400 amp hours” 🤦🏻♂️ I didn’t really wanna have 4 batteries up there so I went with one more 100 ah 12 volt instead of two more 6 volts.
Byvägen oh really? Dang! I didn’t come across that I’m my research but I’ll defiantly look into it! Thanks for the tip!
Question... I’m doing both 110 and 12v. How do I switch over to 110 (shore power) when everything I have, except a/c, is hooked up to 12v? What do I need?
Melinda Tippins So 110v ac (alternating current) and 12v dc (direct current) are two different types of power and require separate systems. You can power your 12v appliances and lights with 110v power if you use a converter. It’s the breaker box/battery charger unit found in almost all manufactured rv’s. Basically you will wire the converter to your batteries then connect the 110v power into the specified wires on the converter. From there the converter will provide a constant 12v power source through the 12v fuses. At the same time it will also charge your batterie(s). They come will a pretty easy to follow color coded wiring diagram as well. Check out the link in the description for “25 amp power center converter” Hopefully that answers your question?
Austin Stout is there any way you could do a video on how you hooked up all the wires to and from the converter? I’m so confused.
Melinda Tippins I’ll see what I can do! I’m working on a more in depth one right now of how to install a transfer switch!
Austin Stout oh, ok.....that’ll be good! 😀
What external port did you use for shore power?
This is the one I used, pretty happy with it
Leisure RV 125V 30 AMP Power Plug... www.amazon.com/dp/B079SL953V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@AustinStout Thanks! One additional question.... The converter... Does it do both 120v and 12v?
@@Nerdum no problem! Yeah the converter charges and maintains the battery when 110 power is available and it also works as a distribution box that houses the 110v breakers. It also has the fuse block for the 12v. The one thing it doesn’t do is invert 12v to 110v. Does that answer your question?
What solar panals and charger did you use?
Shawna Dohm I’ll add a link to them in the description here in a few but I have two 160 watt panels from Rich Solar (wired in series) feeding a 30 amp EPEVER MPPT charge controller. I went with that controller so I could configure the charge parameters to match the AGM battery setup I have. That one is also nice because you can get it in a kit with the little remote that shows everything you need to know about your solar setup
Thank you!
On a sunny day how many amp hrs are you getting from the two panels per hour?
Hate seeing residential solid wire "romex" in RV applications. The constant movement and flexing can cause the conductors to break.
A better option would have been to use marine "romex". While more money upfront, the stranded and tinned conductors are safer in these environments.
John Simanella John Simanella hmm that’s an interesting point, I didn’t realize they had a marine version! Good to know! I ran that solid wire throughout the trailer for the 110 side of throngs because that’s what was specified in the manual for the air conditioner. Everything is hooked down pretty solid before the plugs or conductors to where there shouldn’t be any or very little movement that way. The wires going into the transfer switch are held in the box by those clamp connectors. Think there would be any problems down the road that way?
@@AustinStout
I believe RV manufacturers are using solid wire as a cost cutting measure. That would never fly with boat manufacturers.
If it were me, I'd avoid it at all cost. For the small amount you need, it's money well spent.
For the record, I've been an electrician for 35 years, and I've rewired my fair share of boats.
John Simanella Those guys are always doin stuff as cheap and as fast as they can.. 😂 Thanks for the info though! It’s good to hear some insider info from an experienced a guy in the trade!
Stop buying stuff from Amazon and start supporting American companies. You'll understand as you get older.
single 12 volt connected to pair of 6's... more than likely DIFFERENT amperage output ( batteries - 6's are prob around 245 and the 12 around 105 ? ) ... NOT a wise thing to do.....
Yeah the numbers are a little off 200/100 but defiantly different. I didn’t know that was a problem when I bought the 12v to go with the system.. had it all installed and goin for a while before I found that out 😅 I mean, defiantly not good under high amp draw but where I usually have a small load (led lights, pump, and the diesel heater) it shouldn’t be thaaaat bad. Or is it? I measured the amp draw under load and it’s more from the pair of 6’s but not a ton. What do you think?
@@AustinStout Would be better if you seperated the different batteries from each lother . The LOWER amp batts WILL draw off the higher and thus "weaken" them .
Dude NEVER mix and match batteries like that the discharge rates and active capacitance will fight each other all day lng - your likely to kill something in a bad way!
Haha yep they will! I didn’t realize that at this point in the build, shoulda done more research but I thought I knew! 🤷🏻♂️ She’s been cleared up for a while now luckily. You can see a quick overview of the setup towards the end of my newest trailer video!
@@AustinStout Yeah - I'm an electrical engineer for over 30+ years, but a newbe' to the Rv WORLD - my other concern is you may be inadvertently giving bad advice to others that don't know better and it's going to give them a bad day, likely when they need it most of all.
A. All of you wiring is undersized except maybe the solar panel wiring, The wires from your charge controller to battery are super small and not fused
B. You need to install fuses-You simply cannot skip fuses without risking fire.
C. Your Batteries are not going to charge properly because they are not matched.
Im really not trying to be a jerk but it is your safety that I am concerned about.
Fuses belong as close to the source of power as possible and must be below the capacity of the system, they must be the weakest link.
You did a lot of stuff right but don't gamble with your life or your build.
Your RV Freedom thanks for the info and concern. I should have researched more on a couple topics. Those wires from the charge controller were in fact undersized in this video. I no longer have that charge controller or wiring setup though! I also didn’t realize the battery situation was messed up at the time of building this. But I now have a matching setup. The rest of the wires are correctly sized for the current and length of run to the load. They are also all fused inside the controller
Austin Stout that’s some good news. There should be a fuse on the positive lead between your battery and your inverter. Ideally a terminal fuse would be the best choice. If some metal item were to cut through the insulation on that lead, creating a short to ground, then you have a fire. If the fuse is at the terminal, there is no unprotected length of wire, so you simply blow a fuse and nobody dies.
Same reason that a dc fuse block is better than in line fuses. Fuses belong as close to the source of power as possible.
Best of luck!