THe little square plastic fuel line fitting is either an anti-vibration device or is used during assembly to allow the carb line to be connected readily on the assembly line. It will not prevent the fuel line from being pulled from the tank, though it should make it harder. I have a similar blower and it is not the easiest thing to get started. I put some aluminum tape on the inner side of the black plastic cover near the muffler to reflect some of the heat away from the cover as it looked as if it was getting kiind of melty. Did the flywheel magnet grab the air cleaner screws? That was not fun. Pretty good video, keep 'em up. tom
Thanks for the info. Yes, they did. If I was looking for a screw and it was not in my screw container, there it is on the flywheel magnet. As for your hard start blower, check compression. If it's ok, try cleaning or replacing the carb.
The pictures show pumping the primer bulb 8X.... and it seems to get the air filter soaking wet. Then it does not want to start. Pernaps I need to actually figure out how many primer pumps are really needed. I think 8X is way too many but I am not a much of a 2T expert. Much better with 4T.
@@GrumpyUnkMillions Yeah, 2 strokes, there is no such thing as pumping the primer too much. On a 2 stroke, all pumping the primer does is makes sure the carb has no air in it. The fuel left over does not go into the venturi, the choke does the job of forcing fuel into the engine. It goes into the second fuel line and back into the gas tank. 4 strokes, all priming does is squirt air into the carb, forcing fuel out of the emulsion tube, into the venturi, that's why if you pump the primer too much on a 4 stroke, it will flood. That is not the case for 2 strokes though. At the time, I did not have an air filter in this engine, so you must be looking at something else.
I was actually referring to my own air filter getting sopping wet with mix, not the video. As you stated, the excess should go back to the tank. Makes me think I should look a bit deeper, and consider getting a kit with new gaskets and pump-valve layer. The sponge is so wet it may block air getting through. I have left it on the shelf as it is so hard to get running. Thanks for the input. tom
very informative video about carburetor cleaning and assembly. Are you up for a collaboration? I'm looking for more youtubers to work with to share more tips of small engine repair. My community have a huge demand of repairing videos for different types of machines.
Well, bought a car kit, HIPA, as they are all from China, and I could not tell the difference between a HIPA and a ZAMA. Took it all apart, used the die-cut gaskets and the plastic flapper valve that matched. The spring went sproing and disappeared. Used the old spring. Set the needle valve rocker to just not-touching using a "Z" setting tool. PBT, added mix, pumped the bulb and tried to start about 81,000 times. Not one pop. waaaaahhhhhh. Took apart again, just a trace of fuel on the side with the jets. Checked the needle valve rocker again, seemed a bit too high.(????) Set so it came real close to the Z. PBT, added gas, pumped, choked, and again, no pop. Maybe I will put all the old carb parts back, and see if it works. I have the UT08107, and am beginning to start to dislike it once again. The HIPA kit seemed of decent quality, as far as I can tell. tom
Hi Tom, What I best recommend to you is to go online any buy a new zama carburetor. The hipa kits seem of decent quality until a year later when they stop working. I'll look up your part number and find you a new carb. With the troubles your having, that may be your best bet. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you have a homelite vac attack blower. Here is the link to buy a new carburetor. bit.ly/48had2x
Holy cow. I bought the whole thing for not much more than the Walbro. It has a ZAMA c1u h39a type, crossed to part # UP00608A. Many that match that. Not too sure I want to put that much into something that has been as obstinate as this blower. I think I'll give it one more shot and this time put some cleaner thru the jets one way or the other or both. Feed some back from the venturi using fingers as 'gasket'. Did not want to get that smell all over but seems necessary.
Very funny. My father often likes to watch my videos and see how I do things, however if I were to give him a broken weed wacker, I doubt he would know where to start.
THe little square plastic fuel line fitting is either an anti-vibration device or is used during assembly to allow the carb line to be connected readily on the assembly line. It will not prevent the fuel line from being pulled from the tank, though it should make it harder. I have a similar blower and it is not the easiest thing to get started. I put some aluminum tape on the inner side of the black plastic cover near the muffler to reflect some of the heat away from the cover as it looked as if it was getting kiind of melty. Did the flywheel magnet grab the air cleaner screws? That was not fun. Pretty good video, keep 'em up. tom
Thanks for the info. Yes, they did. If I was looking for a screw and it was not in my screw container, there it is on the flywheel magnet. As for your hard start blower, check compression. If it's ok, try cleaning or replacing the carb.
The pictures show pumping the primer bulb 8X.... and it seems to get the air filter soaking wet. Then it does not want to start. Pernaps I need to actually figure out how many primer pumps are really needed. I think 8X is way too many but I am not a much of a 2T expert. Much better with 4T.
@@GrumpyUnkMillions Yeah, 2 strokes, there is no such thing as pumping the primer too much. On a 2 stroke, all pumping the primer does is makes sure the carb has no air in it. The fuel left over does not go into the venturi, the choke does the job of forcing fuel into the engine. It goes into the second fuel line and back into the gas tank. 4 strokes, all priming does is squirt air into the carb, forcing fuel out of the emulsion tube, into the venturi, that's why if you pump the primer too much on a 4 stroke, it will flood. That is not the case for 2 strokes though. At the time, I did not have an air filter in this engine, so you must be looking at something else.
I was actually referring to my own air filter getting sopping wet with mix, not the video. As you stated, the excess should go back to the tank. Makes me think I should look a bit deeper, and consider getting a kit with new gaskets and pump-valve layer. The sponge is so wet it may block air getting through. I have left it on the shelf as it is so hard to get running. Thanks for the input. tom
@@GrumpyUnkMillions I would get an OEM rebuild kit, and buy a metering lever gauge and level your metering lever.
You can do it
Course u can!
i also have a desire to work on small engines and i am 14 maybe you could teach me some stuff i love your channel
Wow, that's the spirit, i'm sure we can work something out.
@@jonahssmallenginerepair yay id love to learn from you
very informative video about carburetor cleaning and assembly. Are you up for a collaboration? I'm looking for more youtubers to work with to share more tips of small engine repair. My community have a huge demand of repairing videos for different types of machines.
Well, bought a car kit, HIPA, as they are all from China, and I could not tell the difference between a HIPA and a ZAMA. Took it all apart, used the die-cut gaskets and the plastic flapper valve that matched. The spring went sproing and disappeared. Used the old spring. Set the needle valve rocker to just not-touching using a "Z" setting tool. PBT, added mix, pumped the bulb and tried to start about 81,000 times. Not one pop. waaaaahhhhhh. Took apart again, just a trace of fuel on the side with the jets. Checked the needle valve rocker again, seemed a bit too high.(????) Set so it came real close to the Z. PBT, added gas, pumped, choked, and again, no pop. Maybe I will put all the old carb parts back, and see if it works. I have the UT08107, and am beginning to start to dislike it once again. The HIPA kit seemed of decent quality, as far as I can tell. tom
Hi Tom, What I best recommend to you is to go online any buy a new zama carburetor. The hipa kits seem of decent quality until a year later when they stop working. I'll look up your part number and find you a new carb. With the troubles your having, that may be your best bet. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you have a homelite vac attack blower. Here is the link to buy a new carburetor. bit.ly/48had2x
Holy cow. I bought the whole thing for not much more than the Walbro. It has a ZAMA c1u h39a type, crossed to part # UP00608A. Many that match that. Not too sure I want to put that much into something that has been as obstinate as this blower. I think I'll give it one more shot and this time put some cleaner thru the jets one way or the other or both. Feed some back from the venturi using fingers as 'gasket'. Did not want to get that smell all over but seems necessary.
NO but your Dad in the background can!!!!!!!!!
Very funny. My father often likes to watch my videos and see how I do things, however if I were to give him a broken weed wacker, I doubt he would know where to start.