Hey guys! I left timestamps in the description in case you need to skip to any part of the video. There is also a written version of the tutorial. Feel free to reply with any questions!
I know I'm three years late to the party, but I just had to comment. I got my bachelor's degree in music education as a percussionist, and I went on to be a drum tech at a high school. I've always done snare tuning by feel because I could never articulate in words what I liked, nor could I find an informative (enough) video online. This video is, without a doubt, the best tutorial for tuning a marching snare. Good job!
Thank you for this! Info on the internet about how to tune isn’t as accessible and straightforward as it should be, so this is gonna help a lot of people. Projection is the #1 thing with basic snare tuning, if the heads aren’t tightened and maintained properly it can be hard to cut through the band sound. One thing I was taught to do to get the snare sound was to loosen the snares, then lightly tap on them towards the rim with a stick and tighten just until you get a “thwack” sound as opposed to just a ring.
Im intrigued by what you said about if the snare isnt ringing it wont carry across the field, is there any chance you'd be able to cut together a comparison of the two so we can hear an example of what you're talking about? like a properly tuned snare vs a non properly tuned one, asking as a kit drummer with zero marching experience.
Unfortunately I wouldn't want to detune my drum, but if I ever get the chance I'd gladly. The "ring" actually begins to disappear at a distance. It is actually the sound the drum creates when the air pushes throughout the head and vibrates the thinner bottom head.
@@elymarching while Im aware of what a ring is, im more so curious about in the context of a marching snare, it just sounds like pop/crack to me, so is the ring effecting volume on the field ultimately? and if so, how much volume is an impropely tuned snare losing, hope I can find a comparison someday
@@Killenmachine05 Without the ring, the drum gets a very thuddy sound and is hard to hear across the field. For example, at my college line, our drums were older and the bottom rims were warped, so we couldn’t bring the bottom heads up very high and the drums did not have the “body” sound like the ring and metallic sound you’d normally get. Since this was the case, the snare line was nearly impossible to hear on the field during any full ensemble playing.
no pitch for top head? i’ve heard D on bottom and A on top. also, for this whole method you’ve shown us, is it still good for a 13” snare? and what pitch would you do the bottom head for a 13”?
@@dylanshay646 I don't normally tune to pitch. At most, I want the drum to ring a C#-D5. The whole video should apply to a 13" snare as well, although the top head may need to be tuned slightly lower for the smaller drum. In general, the most important keys are the guts and bottom head. The top head comes to personal preference.
@@gavin_gillespie I don’t see how warping would happen from different lug patterns. Warping is caused by uneven tensions. The star pattern is used to avoid putting more tension on one side than the other, to prevent head tearing or stretching.
@@elymarching you do a star pattern to prevent one side of the rim from tightening faster than the other, ultimately leading to uneven tensions and the rim sitting in an uneven manner. this leads to warping not only the rim but the shell itself. it’s the same reason you go in a star pattern when you replace a tire.
@@xTheFooLishx The difference with a drum is that we can feel and hear uneven tension and we are not trying to tighten the lugs to keep something in place. Since the tension is so gradual, even without a star pattern, you aren’t putting enough difference in tensions to warp the rim. If you did a circle pattern and tightened each lug a lot each time, then I can see warping happen.
I have all the same heads and drum as you but i just can’t seem to get the same crackly snare response to the edge I’m not sure if it’s my batter head tension or something else was there any common mistakes you made when u first were tuning your drum or that you have seen other ppl make
How do you get that nasty ring out of it towards the edge of the head? I always struggle with that. I think it comes from the bottom head not being in tune with itself, but no matter how hard I try, it still does it.
That’s the byproduct of the air moving inside the drum. If you’re tuning a full line, that ring isn’t audible to the audience. If you’re tuning your own drum, taping some paper towel squares to the bottom head should help dampen it.
I get that the bottom head should ring, but should I be able to hear and that ring when I'm playing at a medium to high volume near the edge? It's almost as loud as the snares
This is always anxiety inducing. Older drums tend to have warped rims that make this ever worse. Tighten slowly and evenly to prevent tearing a head. If the drum is older, don’t try to crank too far. I personally stick with the Fallams II head because it’s a thicker bottom head and is harder to rip.
I did it my first time tuning a snare and every time I get ready to replace a bottom head I get nervous. 😂😂 Just take it slow though and don’t over do it.
Ringing can be a few things. Marching snares are supposed to ring, as this is the "body" sound of the drum and allows it to project. If it's a solo snare and you want to eliminate that ring, you can put a paper towel patch on the bottom head. Folder a paper towel into a square and use some electrical tape to tape along the edges and place it on the bottom head. If it is a rattling ring, it could be your snare guts. You want to make sure they're flush against the bottom head, if they are slightly off, they will cause a rattling ring sound.
@@elymarching dude first thank you for replying so fast. Second im glad to hear that thats what its supposed to do. Haha. I was worried i did something really wrong. Illhave to muffle the top head cause its coming from there. Thank you!
Does placement of the manufacturer insignia matter? I see that some corps place it on the side nearest the player (like you have it) and others on the side opposite. And still others have it aligned with the guts. Also- how much pressure are you using when you press down on the head before it’s tightened?
Logo alignment doesn't matter, it's just personal preference. When pushing into the head, I'm pushing fairly hard, but not enough where I feel I would break the head.
Do you think the pearl attachments to use for the pearl stand would fit a mapex drum? I love how mapex sound (personally) but I don’t like the stand for it and prefer the ones pearl has.
If you are referring to the CXAS2 attachment that comes with a Pearl Airframe carrier, absolutely. Most carrier attachments, like the Pearl attachment, simply tighten to the tubes.
That’s today’s snares compared to the 80’s big difference in sound. I think today snares are too tight almost sounding like a gun shot but, to each is own.😢😂
I prefer the clarity of the modern marching snare. I do think the modern tuning is also nearly impossible to replicate through microphones and sounds significantly fuller in person.
It may help to tighten one snare gut as much as it will go, and then bring it maybe a half step lower or tune to that. The idea is that you want the guts to be the highest pitch that all the guts will reach together.
Modern tuning emphasizes cleanliness and articulation. It is a lot different than the old style marching snares that were very militaristic. It is personal preference.
Hey guys! I left timestamps in the description in case you need to skip to any part of the video. There is also a written version of the tutorial. Feel free to reply with any questions!
I just got a drum that came with heads already on it should I take the heads off the drum even if they come with them on?
@@saltydalty7665 Depends on the heads. Most drums come with Mylar stock heads, and I’d definitely recommend replacing them!
@@elymarching mine actually has system blue heads on it. I'm asking if I should taking the heads off and put the same head back on.
@@saltydalty7665 Generally you shouldn’t de-tension heads too much, especially bottom heads.
@@elymarching ok thank you so much
I know I'm three years late to the party, but I just had to comment. I got my bachelor's degree in music education as a percussionist, and I went on to be a drum tech at a high school. I've always done snare tuning by feel because I could never articulate in words what I liked, nor could I find an informative (enough) video online. This video is, without a doubt, the best tutorial for tuning a marching snare. Good job!
Thank you for this! Info on the internet about how to tune isn’t as accessible and straightforward as it should be, so this is gonna help a lot of people. Projection is the #1 thing with basic snare tuning, if the heads aren’t tightened and maintained properly it can be hard to cut through the band sound.
One thing I was taught to do to get the snare sound was to loosen the snares, then lightly tap on them towards the rim with a stick and tighten just until you get a “thwack” sound as opposed to just a ring.
Right! I see so many people who don’t understand the drum ring is important. It’s not a bad ring, it’s what allows the drum to project.
The snare response is absolutely crispy ❤❤❤
Wow, never thought of pressing in the head and also that snare string method. Great info!! Thank you so much.
Of course! Glad to help.
Mapex drums really sound great
Fully agree!
I personally think Pearl sounds best but I can't deny that Mapex has a rich tone that is very satisfying
This is awesome, great on getting to the point!
Thank you!
yo i’ve seen this video before glad to see your channel is getting recommended
Im intrigued by what you said about if the snare isnt ringing it wont carry across the field, is there any chance you'd be able to cut together a comparison of the two so we can hear an example of what you're talking about? like a properly tuned snare vs a non properly tuned one, asking as a kit drummer with zero marching experience.
Unfortunately I wouldn't want to detune my drum, but if I ever get the chance I'd gladly. The "ring" actually begins to disappear at a distance. It is actually the sound the drum creates when the air pushes throughout the head and vibrates the thinner bottom head.
@@elymarching while Im aware of what a ring is, im more so curious about in the context of a marching snare, it just sounds like pop/crack to me, so is the ring effecting volume on the field ultimately? and if so, how much volume is an impropely tuned snare losing, hope I can find a comparison someday
@@Killenmachine05 Without the ring, the drum gets a very thuddy sound and is hard to hear across the field. For example, at my college line, our drums were older and the bottom rims were warped, so we couldn’t bring the bottom heads up very high and the drums did not have the “body” sound like the ring and metallic sound you’d normally get. Since this was the case, the snare line was nearly impossible to hear on the field during any full ensemble playing.
no pitch for top head? i’ve heard D on bottom and A on top. also, for this whole method you’ve shown us, is it still good for a 13” snare? and what pitch would you do the bottom head for a 13”?
also how much higher should top head be than bottom head if bottom head is a D5 or whatever pitch is recommended for 13”
@@dylanshay646 I don't normally tune to pitch. At most, I want the drum to ring a C#-D5. The whole video should apply to a 13" snare as well, although the top head may need to be tuned slightly lower for the smaller drum. In general, the most important keys are the guts and bottom head. The top head comes to personal preference.
The same method works with the 13s just like he said you don't want the top heads to high
A 4?
Great job!
Very good video Man.
This is a good video, and it’s not even close
agreed
What you mean?
Where did you get the thumbnail pic? It looks awesome
I googled “drum corps snare line”
@@elymarching thanks!
Isn't it better to go in an across pattern when tightening the heads, rather than all the way around? At least that's what I've always heard.
Yes it is, but since marching snare top heads are made of Kevlar, it doesn’t make a huge difference.
@@elymarching it's not necessarily better for the head. It's better to go in a star shape because then the rims don't warp as quickly
@@gavin_gillespie I don’t see how warping would happen from different lug patterns. Warping is caused by uneven tensions. The star pattern is used to avoid putting more tension on one side than the other, to prevent head tearing or stretching.
@@elymarching you do a star pattern to prevent one side of the rim from tightening faster than the other, ultimately leading to uneven tensions and the rim sitting in an uneven manner. this leads to warping not only the rim but the shell itself. it’s the same reason you go in a star pattern when you replace a tire.
@@xTheFooLishx The difference with a drum is that we can feel and hear uneven tension and we are not trying to tighten the lugs to keep something in place. Since the tension is so gradual, even without a star pattern, you aren’t putting enough difference in tensions to warp the rim. If you did a circle pattern and tightened each lug a lot each time, then I can see warping happen.
Amazing video! This is definitely the best snare drum tutorial on youtube
Also what top head do you prefer?
Reno Black Max is always my top choice for lines, I went for a Remo Suede Max on my personal drum since it feels a bit softer.
I have all the same heads and drum as you but i just can’t seem to get the same crackly snare response to the edge I’m not sure if it’s my batter head tension or something else was there any common mistakes you made when u first were tuning your drum or that you have seen other ppl make
Mess with your snare strainer until you find want you want.
Also rewatch the video and redo the process.
Check the snare strainer, that’s normally the culprit.
What step did you not tell us to make it sound so crisp
Promise I didn’t miss anything. The quality of the drum, the heads, and the mic all greatly affect the sound of the drum too.
Why are marching snares deeper than other snare drums?
More air moving in the drum means more sound, thus more “projection”.
How do you get that nasty ring out of it towards the edge of the head? I always struggle with that. I think it comes from the bottom head not being in tune with itself, but no matter how hard I try, it still does it.
That’s the byproduct of the air moving inside the drum. If you’re tuning a full line, that ring isn’t audible to the audience. If you’re tuning your own drum, taping some paper towel squares to the bottom head should help dampen it.
Qual pele inferior o senhor recomenda ?
I use the Fallams II
I get that the bottom head should ring, but should I be able to hear and that ring when I'm playing at a medium to high volume near the edge? It's almost as loud as the snares
Yes, it becomes more apparent as you reach the edge.
Can you make it sound good with the stock bottom head? I’ve seen people use the stock bottom head before and it sounds awesome
It could work for a personal drum, but the Kevlar bottom head helps a ton for projection.
Does the type of throw and quality of the snare guts affect the sound. Also is there a preference for type of bottom head
For sure. I’ve found that older drums that are worn down have a hard time sounding as crisp. I use Fallams II for the bottom.
I shattered the snare side head for tightening too much before so I’m kinda scared to tighten
But using the fist might be a great idea!
This is always anxiety inducing. Older drums tend to have warped rims that make this ever worse. Tighten slowly and evenly to prevent tearing a head. If the drum is older, don’t try to crank too far. I personally stick with the Fallams II head because it’s a thicker bottom head and is harder to rip.
I did it my first time tuning a snare and every time I get ready to replace a bottom head I get nervous. 😂😂 Just take it slow though and don’t over do it.
@@DeeboComing It’s super nerve racking, I’ve popped a few haha
My snare has s ringing im not in to. Is there anyway to eliminate it? Is it just as simple as mufflung it?
Ringing can be a few things. Marching snares are supposed to ring, as this is the "body" sound of the drum and allows it to project. If it's a solo snare and you want to eliminate that ring, you can put a paper towel patch on the bottom head. Folder a paper towel into a square and use some electrical tape to tape along the edges and place it on the bottom head. If it is a rattling ring, it could be your snare guts. You want to make sure they're flush against the bottom head, if they are slightly off, they will cause a rattling ring sound.
@@elymarching dude first thank you for replying so fast. Second im glad to hear that thats what its supposed to do. Haha. I was worried i did something really wrong. Illhave to muffle the top head cause its coming from there. Thank you!
Hey what stand do you use for your snare?
Randall May stadium stand.
Nearly the same way I tune snares except I put a tissue pad on the bottom. Very good vid!
why’s that?
@@dylanshay646 It can help dry up the snare ring a bit, especially for larger snare lines that may be over projecting against the brass.
Does placement of the manufacturer insignia matter? I see that some corps place it on the side nearest the player (like you have it) and others on the side opposite. And still others have it aligned with the guts.
Also- how much pressure are you using when you press down on the head before it’s tightened?
Logo alignment doesn't matter, it's just personal preference. When pushing into the head, I'm pushing fairly hard, but not enough where I feel I would break the head.
@@elymarching Thank you!
Do you think the pearl attachments to use for the pearl stand would fit a mapex drum? I love how mapex sound (personally) but I don’t like the stand for it and prefer the ones pearl has.
If you are referring to the CXAS2 attachment that comes with a Pearl Airframe carrier, absolutely. Most carrier attachments, like the Pearl attachment, simply tighten to the tubes.
Asmr typa voice
why the suede max? jw
I wanted something a bit softer on the hands at the time, though I would use the Black Max nowadays.
Why is the a little bit of a ping sound
It comes from air pushing through the drum and vibrating against all the different materials, and disappears at performance distances.
Ohhh so that’s why our drum tech was so pissed when my friend ran the bottom head of his snare into my bass drum
I just broke a falams II head 😭
@@ryankrepshaw5480 Pain
That’s today’s snares compared to the 80’s big difference in sound. I think today snares are too tight almost sounding like a gun shot but, to each is own.😢😂
I prefer the clarity of the modern marching snare. I do think the modern tuning is also nearly impossible to replicate through microphones and sounds significantly fuller in person.
define a “high note” for snare guts 🤔
It may help to tighten one snare gut as much as it will go, and then bring it maybe a half step lower or tune to that. The idea is that you want the guts to be the highest pitch that all the guts will reach together.
Make something up.
Sounds like a block of wood. I think the modern tuning sounds horrible. Its dead and there is no snare sound.
Modern tuning emphasizes cleanliness and articulation. It is a lot different than the old style marching snares that were very militaristic. It is personal preference.
I can hardly hear the snare at all. I'm sorry. I don't like the sound of today's marching snare drum.
The microphone doesn’t do it justice, and the tuning is not meant to sound good by itself.
@@elymarchingi think they are talking abt when they used mylar heads instead of the kevlar but me personally the new one sounds awesome