For anyone having trouble with the overflow plumbing. Lube up the O-rings with the silicone grease they give you, and it makes tightening the overflow pipes 100x easier, and then tighten until you start hearing the serrated edges catch onto the pipe.
I came here for this thank you! Setting up my tank and when the threads caught I only got about 3/4 of a full turn before it stopped. I had no idea if I should keep tightening. To anyone else reading this, they call it 'hinge protection grease' but on the ingredients it says silicone grease. Thank you!
On the 425 G2 does the barb on return pipe unscrew? I've read on older versions where there was a single attachment at the bulkhead the barb would not unscrew. The entire bulkhead Pump Return Connector (part #42222) could be replaced with part #42221, which is for a smaller model, but the barb could unscrew, allowing it to be modified for hard plumbing.
Would have been nice to show people how the pipes thread into the bottom of the overflow before they drop down and hit the o-ring for final tightening as well as shown how insanely difficult it is to get the pipes screwed down and tight from inside the cabinet. Very tight fit. The ikea instructions do not explain or show this portion clearly at all.
That is a problem and one that plagues many. The overflow plumbing, inside the top of the overflow, have orings and do not need to be really tight. There are many diagrams and videos that will show you the under tank install and where the pieces go. I do agree, Red Sea should provide a better diagram for this. The Red Sea Reefer XL 300 G2 came with the plumbing pre-built for under the tank. I believe this 425 does as well.
@@hurricaneaquatics my 425 G2 did not. Where the pieces go wasn't an issue. But there wasnt anything about HOW to put them in. It isnt obvious that you have to thread them through, then they drop, then you thread again until tight. And no, they dont have to be super tight, but getting them seated against the drag of the orings (despite the bit of lube they put on them) is not a smooth process.
@@ericb065 Yes, I agree, Eric. I forgot about what you mentioned. I actually used a bit of Super Lube around the orings. But mine kept tightening and I was hard to tell when to stop. They definitely need better fittings as they are a bit flimsy and thin.
@@hurricaneaquatics Completely agree. This would have been the perfect platform to really 'dumb down' the install and show some detail. have yet to see a set up or unboxing that has addressed this particular point yet.
Haha, the "high precision valve" isn't so high precision. It takes constant adjusting and seems to change on its own and especially if you have evaporation. I mean 2mm of evaporation it will sound like it has air bubbles or start the filling up sound and then the gurgling of the water draining. It's a PITA 😁. Love my Red Sea Reefer XL 300 G2 though.
It is such a bad copy of another brilliant design done so poorly. Using a diaphragm that relies on pressure differential for "precision" flow control, when the pressure is constantly changing, shows the lack of understanding from Red Sea. Not really a surprise though seeing as the products came from Slave Arabia......sorry Saudi Arabia.
I would be changing out that poor excuse of a valve Red Sea use and put in a proper gate valve before you get sent completely nuts later on....... Good old Slave Aribia quality product.....
Just ordered one from Saltwater Aquarium🎉. Great video series Hilary made my purchase decision much easier
Great job Hilary I love the series! Can’t wait to see the next vid in this build series! 🤙🤙🤙
Thank you! 😁
For anyone having trouble with the overflow plumbing. Lube up the O-rings with the silicone grease they give you, and it makes tightening the overflow pipes 100x easier, and then tighten until you start hearing the serrated edges catch onto the pipe.
I came here for this thank you! Setting up my tank and when the threads caught I only got about 3/4 of a full turn before it stopped. I had no idea if I should keep tightening. To anyone else reading this, they call it 'hinge protection grease' but on the ingredients it says silicone grease. Thank you!
Thank you! The only part I needed help with and they literaly skip it in the video lol
Also came here for this Thanks
Wow thank you exactly why I came here
Great build series step by step setup thanks for sharing your experience
Glad you enjoyed it
This is immensely helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great job
On the 425 G2 does the barb on return pipe unscrew? I've read on older versions where there was a single attachment at the bulkhead the barb would not unscrew. The entire bulkhead Pump Return Connector (part #42222) could be replaced with part #42221, which is for a smaller model, but the barb could unscrew, allowing it to be modified for hard plumbing.
Did that ATO tank come with the main tank or is it bought separately?
Would have been nice to show people how the pipes thread into the bottom of the overflow before they drop down and hit the o-ring for final tightening as well as shown how insanely difficult it is to get the pipes screwed down and tight from inside the cabinet. Very tight fit. The ikea instructions do not explain or show this portion clearly at all.
That is a problem and one that plagues many. The overflow plumbing, inside the top of the overflow, have orings and do not need to be really tight. There are many diagrams and videos that will show you the under tank install and where the pieces go. I do agree, Red Sea should provide a better diagram for this. The Red Sea Reefer XL 300 G2 came with the plumbing pre-built for under the tank. I believe this 425 does as well.
@@hurricaneaquatics my 425 G2 did not. Where the pieces go wasn't an issue. But there wasnt anything about HOW to put them in. It isnt obvious that you have to thread them through, then they drop, then you thread again until tight. And no, they dont have to be super tight, but getting them seated against the drag of the orings (despite the bit of lube they put on them) is not a smooth process.
@@ericb065 Yes, I agree, Eric. I forgot about what you mentioned. I actually used a bit of Super Lube around the orings. But mine kept tightening and I was hard to tell when to stop. They definitely need better fittings as they are a bit flimsy and thin.
@@hurricaneaquatics Completely agree. This would have been the perfect platform to really 'dumb down' the install and show some detail. have yet to see a set up or unboxing that has addressed this particular point yet.
What goes on the pipe at the back
Haha, the "high precision valve" isn't so high precision. It takes constant adjusting and seems to change on its own and especially if you have evaporation. I mean 2mm of evaporation it will sound like it has air bubbles or start the filling up sound and then the gurgling of the water draining. It's a PITA 😁. Love my Red Sea Reefer XL 300 G2 though.
It is such a bad copy of another brilliant design done so poorly. Using a diaphragm that relies on pressure differential for "precision" flow control, when the pressure is constantly changing, shows the lack of understanding from Red Sea. Not really a surprise though seeing as the products came from Slave Arabia......sorry Saudi Arabia.
keep going ;)
I would be changing out that poor excuse of a valve Red Sea use and put in a proper gate valve before you get sent completely nuts later on....... Good old Slave Aribia quality product.....
I'm such a Loser
Better add some straps around the tank for the seams fail