Been painting with my couple sable brushes for about a year and haven't gone bad yet! I'm a bit over the top with cleaning them with brush soap every time I use them
I’ve definitely trimmed the bad tips from old brushes and used them for things like painting terrain, dry brushing, or particularly rough surfaces that might ruin a brush over time. Brush isn’t useless until it has no bristles left.
And even if it has no bristles, you now have a handle you can attach to homemade tools. Brush handles make for good sculpting tools with a bit of wire taped on, you can use pine needles for drawing, make a shank to kill the guy in 14B, etc.
I've been painting minis for decades and brush splitting has been my biggest gripe. This video was so helpful and you present the information in a great way. I'm definitely looking through your backlog and will work to actually improve my painting!
Masters has kept my 30 year old Winsor Newtown Sable brushes fresh and new since I purchased them. A diluted solution on the brush when done keeps the shape until the next session.
I have been using this one for a few years to help restore brushes, Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer and it works very well. But like most of these, don't get it anywhere else on the brush as it tends to gum up your brush handle. I just started using the Master's brush cleaner the other day and it seems to work really well, plus it's easy to use so I will work this into the rotation after painting. I'm still a noob but brushes are easy to kill I have notice lol.
I use Vallejo Brush Cleaner for my detail brushes and The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver soap for regular brushes. I've only used them for synthetics and quite happy with the results.
Great video. I never considered storing brushes upright could be a problem. I have used Pencil Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver for years with good results on my citadel and army painter brushes.
Some really helpful insights! The wet palette problem occurs often times when I take long breaks from painting. Your water pot is pure gold! Need to CAD one myself :D
I'm totally going to implement that pool noodle idea! I just picked one up yesterday to cut out a chunk to use on my barbell as a cushion for doing squats, so this is an excellent use of the left over noodle!
I store my brushes tip up but I'm constantly cleaning my brush even when painting if I see any paint go near the the base of the bristles clean it and then clean after every session.i clean my brushes in zestit from Rosemary&co then rinse in clean water then reshape.And the copper in the wet pallet is a must works for me. Nice video👍
@@LylaMev all of it, lol. but specifically the wet pallette. I paint so infrequently it's moldy every time I sit down. And as an art teacher I should know better
For the wet palette I use paper towels instead of a sponge, 2 pieces folded in half and cut to shape, then some white baking paper on top, works well for me. If any mold forms (around 2 weeks is the danger zone), I just throw it out and clean the palette with soap.
Instead of a sponge you can also buy cloth-like paper on rolls: it’s used to clean ceramic/induction stoves. A little more expensive than paper rolls but you don’t use much. Using only distilled water 💦 is probably the best way to delay mould - It’s about $0.50-$1.00 per litre round my way.
ngl that pool noodle idea is actually genuis. I would like ask about the whole "never store your brushes upwards" thing because you are literally the first person ive heard say that. Every youtuber says store it upwards to not crush the brush
Granted I don't have a wet pallet yet but the info was a great tip. Along with the tips down tip, I've always wondered about if they should b tip down instead
Not a solution to all brush issues, but I've often rescued a brush by just dipping it in VERY hot water, on the edge of boiling. It can help to get some dried paint out and help to restore the shape. Any chemical beyond the H2O has led me to issues similar to what you found with the vinegar.
The Artis Opus brush cleanser and paint remover are fantastic I’ve found! They are not cheap but I find the Artis Opus stuff really keeps my brushes in great shape and I have to admit I don’t clean my brushes after every session!
I use a plastic lid with wet kitchen roll on silicone paper on top for my wet pallet never had any issues and you can use the same paper towel for weeks or months
The Masters brush cleaner and preserver is what I use on my brushes, on those with no point can make up a lather with it, make into a point and let the lather dry, then rinse off and voila, point is back. I have some Winsor Newton Brushes I have been using for 10 years now and they are still going strong. A point to help keep paint out the ferrule is to never stick your brush into paint when its dry, always use a moist brush, seems counter intuitive but it works. Also, acrylics do dry quickly, thats the nature of them, so constant rinsing/cleaning whilst painting helps a lot, the paint on your figure is dry... its going to have started drying in your brush. As to the sponge, no idea, I imagine you were getting the weird result as it still had vinegar in it.... I use old chinese plastic carry out dishes and kitchen sponge, throw it out after a week :)
Ohhhhh I thought the wet pallet sponge was like a shammi (wet leather used to dry off your car after washing) and needed to be kept wet. Those tips are so helpful! Thank you so much.
I use the Abteiling 502 Magic Potion for brushes if normal soap doesn’t so it. I’ll suspend the brush head (not the handle, the paint will melt) in the bottle overnight then rinse and use soap the next day. It works really well!
Hi Lyla, I use shaving soap in a bowl, the firmness of the soap block allows you to massage the soap into the brush hairs thus softening the paint in the ferrule. I also have a jar of a mix of anti microbial soap and water which I rinse the brush through with afterwards. I find this keeps my brushes in a good condition 👍
I don't know why, but I don't see you videos very often but when I do, each one has a great bit of practical knowledge that many other hobby channels don't touch on :)
finally painting in a format beyond airbrushing 100 models the morning of tournaments & got some nicer brushes that I would feel very guilty ruining, this was super helpful thank you
I use the Master's brush cleaner as well, for cleaning and reconditioning. After cleaning the brush with the Master's and rinsing it well, I soap the bristles once more and reform the tip with my fingers. Then I let the soap dry in the bristles -- it helps reform the tip of the brush, and the soap rinses right out in my water jug the next time I use them. One other thing I use are brush protectors to keep the bristles from getting banged around. I bought a set nylon mesh sleeves, which slide onto the brush when I can't find, or don't want to use, those clear plastic tubes the brushes come with. Just make sure you always slide them on and off the brush one way, from the handle end.
I've recently started just using a folded paper towel instead of a sponge and haven't noticed any major difference in how the wet pallet functions. And it's great because you can just use it until the paper towel begins falling apart, then throw it out and put a new one in. That way mold doesn't have a long time to establish itself.
Regarding the mould and boiling it in water and viniger. I can say with confidence that it's the viniger that wrecked the sponge for you. As if you only boil the sponge which works to as it kills the mould spores. The sponge stays in good condition
The old copper pennies trick is a knockout. I keep about 3 in the bottom of my standard Masterson's palette and I never have to worry about mold, and I've never swapped my sponge. You can also straighten the hooked tips on some nicer synthetic brushes by running them under super hot water. Guy from Midwinter Minis has a whole video about restoring synthetic brushes that's well worth a watch.
I'm getting better at and about cleaning my brushes more frequently, I'll admit. Currently I'm using Monument Games' Jentastic Brush Goop and it's doing really well as a cleaner and restorer. I got into using a bit of dish soap in my wet palette water because of your suggestion and it seems to be working well.
@@truehearted2295 I fill a squirt bottle full of water and just a dot of dish soap, as in a little squeeze. Then I shake it up until it's nice and foamy, let it settle, and soak the sponge with it as usual.
If these tips help me prolong my brushes by even a little bit, it'll be well worth having watched this! I'm going to start using a couple of these right away!
I use sponges washing up, think they are called spongex flat yellow ones weird texture. Also you can get a paint additive which inhibits mould and you need like one drop in the water for the whole pallet. Also if you do get mould I would say use Milton or the stuff to sterilise baby bottles. Also Windsor and Newton brush cleaner is the best I have tried or IPA. Good video and great tips. Also bar of soap like Dove and hair conditioner and shampoo works well to clean your brush. Cheap hair gel for short hair works on brushes when storing them to hold their point and washes out in water.
@@LylaMev I don't think so but it doesn't work on some brushes only real hair sable. If it's real hair did you try hair conditioner to see if it would bounce back.
The longest I've ever had a brush last was 20 years, 15 as a prime brush then another 5 as a utility brush for all sorts, it was never given much more than a swill around the water pot for a clean but i have always added a very tiny amount of washing up liquid (about the size of a peanut of volume) to my water pot. I've found good quality Sable Brushes split anyway regardless if there is paint in the ferrule or not, its just more obvious to see if the is paint getting into the ferrule of the brush.
I am guilty of storing my brushes point up, so I need to probably correct that. I use The Masters brush cleaner and it definitely seems to help. Cheers!
Windsor & newton brush & hand cleaner works great for each session and if you let it rest a bit will start to get at the old paints. the master's brush cleaner & restorer works great to preserve, and the soap for cleaning the paints off your hands, under nails, and enamels/oils too. i use vms clean slate rmvr 2.0 for deep cleans or aztek universal acrylic cleaner, but that is some nasty stuff, wear gloves and a filtered mask.
Mouldy Wet Pallet, my pallet consists of a Jaye Cloth instead of a sponge and parchment paper for the paint. Very cheap to replace as I only use half the Jaye Cloth.
Windsor and newton . Best tip restore is to add some water to a hotplate and heat it . Roll the tip as the water evaporates . Best on synthetic brushes.
I use gel hand sanattizer to clean my brushes and hot water and a bar of soap to condition them. It's worked pretty well so far. Even dollar store brushes last months.
Thank you for all the tips and tricks...your videos have helped very much!!!! I don't paint Minis but I do paint my 3D Models. Your vids are still very relevant!!!
I remember one time when I dipped my brush Abbadon black, and then realized how l late it is went to bed. After that got up to do some more painting and found my brush in it's a Abandon black shell my Dad managed to get it off with paint stripper.
Have you tried Silver Brush Black Velvet, they are made of squirrel hair and black synthetic. They use to be really cheap, but not anymore of course. However they hold a great point, but they also curve. Some of my favorite non-sable brushes.
I just bought one of these, but I haven't used it yet. I'm excited to try. Not really one I've heard much about. Glad to know someone has had a positive experience. Amazon reviews are too easy to buy to trust too much.
@@Ali626AMM I never bought brushes from amazon, pretty risky on there. At first I wasn’t a fan, I expected to be more like sable but after a few uses and no jay hooks I dig em.
@@Ghostly_Shadows I bought a Raphael brush and it is absolutely amazing for gradients across larger surfaces. I was doing dragon wings. 3 color blends across surfaces that are 2.5x4.5" with perfection. I'm in love. I hope the Silver brushes are as nice and I like it better than the Windsor and Newton that I bought on Amazon that I'm convinced have to be fake to be so bad.
Great tips! I’ve been meaning to try Dr. Faust’s tile wet palette idea… I’ve been adding a splash of ammonia to my wet palette but I sometimes neglect doing so out of laziness.
I put a little rubbing alcohol into my wet pallet to skip nasty stuff from growing. That and plus a cool basement, I've never had mold even though I leave my pallet for weeks at a time without cleaning.
I keep my wet palette in the fridge just to reduce prep time to get to painting; nothing kills my motivation more than thinking about what I need to do first just to get paint on a model. When I'm done painting, I add some extra water, put a lid on it (not airtight!) and chuck it in. When I get back to painting, I grab the palette from the fridge, fiddle with the water level, put on a paper and it's good to go. No weird smells have developed so far. I also throw the sponge in the microwave every now and then to steam off any gribblies that might be lurking in it.
Windsor and Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer works great for me (Guy from Midwinter did a video on it). For the wet palette, I just use parchment paper ($1.50 a roll at the dollar store, discard after every couple of uses - a bit of effort to cut to size for my masterson wet palette, but oh, so inexpensive. Same for the sponge - thin cellulose sponges from dollar store, replace when they get nasty)
Best WP paper is matersons . I tried many and only matersons holds up to long term use. Even as far as washing the paint off and reusing it for 2nd and even 3rd paint sessions . Soooo worth it .
Mold can be killed, but the stains will stay. Easily done with most bathroom cleaners or anything with chlorine in it. Alcohol could work too, but it has to be high proof (70% and up) and it needs time to kill the mold. Thanks for the tip with the poolnoodle.
I use cheap walmart basic premium synthetics for minis as they cost 5-10$ for a 10 pack of various sizes and I can do anything with them that I could with the absurdly expensive premiums like Winsors or Davinchis. Those needing to be properly conditioned and handled with kid gloves is too much a con for the very little pro they offer. it just isnt worth the hassle when you can buy 10x more brushes and just get to painting, and toss them out when they eventually fray or split, as opposed to feeling like you just wrecked $50 brush because you forgot to dry it upside down, or put conditioner on it the night before.
To clean the spunge of your wet-pallet, I'd suggest isopropyl alcohol. It effectively kills mold (IPA is the active ingredient in almost all industrial strength desinfectant) and also disolves most of the paint that seeped into your sponge (interior decorators use it to remove acrylic paint that accidentally got onto surfaces) . Just soak the sponge in the recipient of your wet pallet for some time (préférably over night) and rince abundantly the next day with clean water. That should do the trick.
@@JonathanTaylorW Well. Don't let it soak in IPA. What I do is I water the IPA down to about a 50:50 mix when working with 99% pure IPA, and squirt some of it on the sponge, then rub it and soak immediately. I repeat that a couple of times until I am convinced, I can't get any more paint out (which is not the main reason I am doing this, but to kill mold). I am still using the original sponges of my Kickstarter Redgrass palette and have no mold issues or issues with the sponge not working anymore.
I should have made it clear in my original post and my reply that the soaking part overnight is with *diluted* IPA, never *pure* IPA. Sorry if that caused any confusion. The rubbing part comes in, once the soaking has been done (couple of hours).
Another trick to prevent mold is putting some rubbing alcohol on the sponge. Not too much because it can damage things. It is water soluble so it shouldn't affect things much. But I would test it on different paints for effect.
Dried paint can be removed with acetone but only bristles To settle it can be used clai On the hair or beard bristles then shaped to dry before use rinse in water
Years ago, Newtype USA used to run Gunpla articles (Gundam model building). That author suggested the acetone thing too. They said to take a glass jar with acetone, and rubber-band your brushes together and suspend them in the acetone. It takes a couple of days, but it WILL get the dried paint out. Just don't manage to get brushes with plastic handles to fall INTO the jar. You will end up with a puddle of goo and bristles. It also smells up the room you're doing this in. I used to do it right before going out of town for the weekend.
Can't remember which Painting UA-camr mentioned it for mold, but they recommended washing the sponge as best as you can. Squeeze out 80% of the water then microwave the sponge for 10-15 seconds on repeat till the sponge is hot to the touch. Rinse. I did this to mine and no more mold or smell.
Using a separate (crappy) brush to scoop paint out of the pot is probably the best lesson I've learned. Getting a big glob of undiluted paint all over your main brush is terrible, even if you rinse it off right away.
I know this is late, but you probably don't want to wash anything with antimicrobial soap. Soap in of itself is antimicrobial because of physics it disrupts the micro bacteria's cell membrane and then the way that the soap adheres to water molecules will wash what is left down the drain. Most antimicrobial soaps use low levels of antibiotics and have been known to increase antibiotic resistances. Also fungi have different cell walls then other micros so the antibiotics probably are not going to work anyway because their mechanism of action tends to be very specific targeting certain weak points in the cell wall/membrane. Give or take it's been a few years since I had this class. Sorry if this is annoying, I just feel the need to share to try and combat the issues of antibiotic resistance. Your videos are very useful and help me out a lot!
how do you keep your brush from splitting while you're in the middle of using it? I'm doing an action figure repaint and the brush I'm using is brand new and when I start it's fine but eventually it ends up with the dreaded split.
Odd question but, what would you do to clean up a model that has brush strokes showing? I’ve tried water on brush to smooth and a very thin almost wash top still meh….
well, i'm realy new to the hobby and run on a low budget, so i was terrefied when my best brush, the on that came with the army painter starter set, started to develop 4 tips. i browsed the internet and the best tip i got was Shampoo (and conditioner for real hair brushes). So I thought to myself "you can't kill what's allready dead" and started to clean the brush, and I did it 'violently'. I have done things to this poor little brush other people would send the Boyz with the "hug yourself jacket" to me. I soaked the brush into the shampoo, pressed it firmly with the tip against the palm of my hand and started drilling it untill the brissles stood out into all directions, washed it out and reatarted the process, allways getting some shampoo into the 'faucette'(??? the metall part) and after a while i got my beloved starter brush back. If I had known I could have rescued the tip by putting it into boiling water I wouldn't have cut it, but even without the top part of the tip it is still the brush i would choose if I could only choose one brush to paint a mini. In extreme cases I go a bit further and put the wet and shampooed brush aside, brissles up, and let the soap water sink into the faucette and do it's magic for about 1-2 houresor overnight befor restarting the process. I hope it helps and you may rescue a brush in the future :)
How long can you keep a brush good for?
Been painting with my couple sable brushes for about a year and haven't gone bad yet! I'm a bit over the top with cleaning them with brush soap every time I use them
Does it count if I bought it a few years ago and have been too scared of ruining my new brush to use it? because if so, 3 years, easy.
I need to get that good!
use. trash. next.
Use the dang brush!!
I’ve definitely trimmed the bad tips from old brushes and used them for things like painting terrain, dry brushing, or particularly rough surfaces that might ruin a brush over time. Brush isn’t useless until it has no bristles left.
And even if it has no bristles, you now have a handle you can attach to homemade tools. Brush handles make for good sculpting tools with a bit of wire taped on, you can use pine needles for drawing, make a shank to kill the guy in 14B, etc.
I've been painting minis for decades and brush splitting has been my biggest gripe. This video was so helpful and you present the information in a great way. I'm definitely looking through your backlog and will work to actually improve my painting!
I found that the masters’ brush soap works well for me for keeping brushes clean and in shape
Masters has kept my 30 year old Winsor Newtown Sable brushes fresh and new since I purchased them. A diluted solution on the brush when done keeps the shape until the next session.
THANK YOU! My brushes have been splitting for years and I haven't even able to figure out why! I feel old not knowing this stuff already. :(
I have been using this one for a few years to help restore brushes, Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer and it works very well. But like most of these, don't get it anywhere else on the brush as it tends to gum up your brush handle. I just started using the Master's brush cleaner the other day and it seems to work really well, plus it's easy to use so I will work this into the rotation after painting. I'm still a noob but brushes are easy to kill I have notice lol.
I put strips of thin strips of copper that I cut from sheets of it, and this works great at keeping mold out of my wet palette.
I use Vallejo Brush Cleaner for my detail brushes and The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver soap for regular brushes. I've only used them for synthetics and quite happy with the results.
Vallejo's Brush Restorer worked out well for me undoing the damage I did with my brushes before I started using brush soap to clean them.
Great video. I never considered storing brushes upright could be a problem. I have used Pencil Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver for years with good results on my citadel and army painter brushes.
this video made me feel a lot more conscious about moldy sponges, thank you --didn't know what i was doing wrong
Some really helpful insights! The wet palette problem occurs often times when I take long breaks from painting.
Your water pot is pure gold! Need to CAD one myself :D
I'm totally going to implement that pool noodle idea! I just picked one up yesterday to cut out a chunk to use on my barbell as a cushion for doing squats, so this is an excellent use of the left over noodle!
Perfect! I used the rest of the pool noodle to hold up my knee high boots so they don't bend!
I store my brushes tip up but I'm constantly cleaning my brush even when painting if I see any paint go near the the base of the bristles clean it and then clean after every session.i clean my brushes in zestit from Rosemary&co then rinse in clean water then reshape.And the copper in the wet pallet is a must works for me. Nice video👍
2:56 wow, those have been through hell and back haha. Great video!
Thank you for the tips!
I use the Windsor & Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer. Does not work miracles but helps.
I can’t believe you would attack me, personally, like this. I’m stunned.
Oh!? Which part?
put me on blast for real
@@LylaMev all of it, lol. but specifically the wet pallette. I paint so infrequently it's moldy every time I sit down.
And as an art teacher I should know better
Add some additives to your wet pallet . Flow aid is a good one . Or a drop of anti bacterial dish soap.
I've had good luck with the "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and preserver though I would like to reduce how much I need to scrub
I need to make myself a pool noodle brush holder now. Thanks Lyla!
Happy to help!!
ty for mentioning the mold on wet pallettes i never considered it growing on it so that helps a lot
For the wet palette I use paper towels instead of a sponge, 2 pieces folded in half and cut to shape, then some white baking paper on top, works well for me. If any mold forms (around 2 weeks is the danger zone), I just throw it out and clean the palette with soap.
Instead of a sponge you can also buy cloth-like paper on rolls: it’s used to clean ceramic/induction stoves. A little more expensive than paper rolls but you don’t use much. Using only distilled water 💦 is probably the best way to delay mould - It’s about $0.50-$1.00 per litre round my way.
There's a lot of good information here, Lyla! Thanks for making the video.
Thank you!!
"B&J "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver" Is what i have been using to clean my brush's and i love it.
Thank you so much. Just the video I needed to see. Went through a very silly number of brushes in a very silly amount of time lol
ngl that pool noodle idea is actually genuis. I would like ask about the whole "never store your brushes upwards" thing because you are literally the first person ive heard say that. Every youtuber says store it upwards to not crush the brush
Great time to post this video since it's the summer and mold is more likely to form. Actually went and cleaned my wet pallete after watching this!
exactly!
Granted I don't have a wet pallet yet but the info was a great tip. Along with the tips down tip, I've always wondered about if they should b tip down instead
I need to stop trashing mine so fast! Thanks for the tips!
Not a solution to all brush issues, but I've often rescued a brush by just dipping it in VERY hot water, on the edge of boiling. It can help to get some dried paint out and help to restore the shape. Any chemical beyond the H2O has led me to issues similar to what you found with the vinegar.
The Artis Opus brush cleanser and paint remover are fantastic I’ve found! They are not cheap but I find the Artis Opus stuff really keeps my brushes in great shape and I have to admit I don’t clean my brushes after every session!
I use a plastic lid with wet kitchen roll on silicone paper on top for my wet pallet never had any issues and you can use the same paper towel for weeks or months
The Masters brush cleaner and preserver is what I use on my brushes, on those with no point can make up a lather with it, make into a point and let the lather dry, then rinse off and voila, point is back.
I have some Winsor Newton Brushes I have been using for 10 years now and they are still going strong.
A point to help keep paint out the ferrule is to never stick your brush into paint when its dry, always use a moist brush, seems counter intuitive but it works. Also, acrylics do dry quickly, thats the nature of them, so constant rinsing/cleaning whilst painting helps a lot, the paint on your figure is dry... its going to have started drying in your brush.
As to the sponge, no idea, I imagine you were getting the weird result as it still had vinegar in it.... I use old chinese plastic carry out dishes and kitchen sponge, throw it out after a week :)
I use the same Brush cleaner stuff and it works for me too !
Ohhhhh I thought the wet pallet sponge was like a shammi (wet leather used to dry off your car after washing) and needed to be kept wet. Those tips are so helpful! Thank you so much.
i didnt think i needed this video, but i wqs blown how many tips i needed in just a few mins in!
I use the Abteiling 502 Magic Potion for brushes if normal soap doesn’t so it. I’ll suspend the brush head (not the handle, the paint will melt) in the bottle overnight then rinse and use soap the next day. It works really well!
As someone just beginning the hobby I found this really helpful!
Hi Lyla, I use shaving soap in a bowl, the firmness of the soap block allows you to massage the soap into the brush hairs thus softening the paint in the ferrule. I also have a jar of a mix of anti microbial soap and water which I rinse the brush through with afterwards. I find this keeps my brushes in a good condition 👍
I don't know why, but I don't see you videos very often but when I do, each one has a great bit of practical knowledge that many other hobby channels don't touch on :)
Thank you! Looks like I’ve been storing my brushes the wrong way for years!
finally painting in a format beyond airbrushing 100 models the morning of tournaments & got some nicer brushes that I would feel very guilty ruining, this was super helpful thank you
I have always used hair conditioner on my brushes to keep the bristles/hairs aligned and in good shape, remember to rinse the brush before use.
I use the masters brush cleaner and I am very happy with this :), I also gave a brushsoap bij Master's, which I use mostly on my dry brush brushes
I use the Master's brush cleaner as well, for cleaning and reconditioning.
After cleaning the brush with the Master's and rinsing it well, I soap the bristles once more and reform the tip with my fingers. Then I let the soap dry in the bristles -- it helps reform the tip of the brush, and the soap rinses right out in my water jug the next time I use them.
One other thing I use are brush protectors to keep the bristles from getting banged around. I bought a set nylon mesh sleeves, which slide onto the brush when I can't find, or don't want to use, those clear plastic tubes the brushes come with. Just make sure you always slide them on and off the brush one way, from the handle end.
The handle end is genius!
Just started painting miniatures and literally had NO IDEA about not storing brushes upright. Thanks so much!
Things nobody told me when I started. Have to buy a completely new set of equipment. Glad I found this video, it will save me a lot of money.
I've recently started just using a folded paper towel instead of a sponge and haven't noticed any major difference in how the wet pallet functions. And it's great because you can just use it until the paper towel begins falling apart, then throw it out and put a new one in. That way mold doesn't have a long time to establish itself.
I use a paper towel under parchment paper works really good.
Regarding the mould and boiling it in water and viniger. I can say with confidence that it's the viniger that wrecked the sponge for you. As if you only boil the sponge which works to as it kills the mould spores. The sponge stays in good condition
Great tutorial on maintaining paint brushes...well done, Thank You.
The old copper pennies trick is a knockout. I keep about 3 in the bottom of my standard Masterson's palette and I never have to worry about mold, and I've never swapped my sponge.
You can also straighten the hooked tips on some nicer synthetic brushes by running them under super hot water. Guy from Midwinter Minis has a whole video about restoring synthetic brushes that's well worth a watch.
I'm getting better at and about cleaning my brushes more frequently, I'll admit. Currently I'm using Monument Games' Jentastic Brush Goop and it's doing really well as a cleaner and restorer. I got into using a bit of dish soap in my wet palette water because of your suggestion and it seems to be working well.
Do you leave the dish soap in the water while using the pallet? How much dish soap are you talking about?
@@truehearted2295 I fill a squirt bottle full of water and just a dot of dish soap, as in a little squeeze. Then I shake it up until it's nice and foamy, let it settle, and soak the sponge with it as usual.
Great tips! Ordered a paint puck too. Thanks Lyla!
If these tips help me prolong my brushes by even a little bit, it'll be well worth having watched this! I'm going to start using a couple of these right away!
Heck yeah!!
You're my hero, Lyla!
I use sponges washing up, think they are called spongex flat yellow ones weird texture. Also you can get a paint additive which inhibits mould and you need like one drop in the water for the whole pallet. Also if you do get mould I would say use Milton or the stuff to sterilise baby bottles. Also Windsor and Newton brush cleaner is the best I have tried or IPA. Good video and great tips. Also bar of soap like Dove and hair conditioner and shampoo works well to clean your brush. Cheap hair gel for short hair works on brushes when storing them to hold their point and washes out in water.
The Windsor newtons brush cleaner is what ruined my brush! It left it all dry! Did I do it wrong
@@LylaMev I don't think so but it doesn't work on some brushes only real hair sable. If it's real hair did you try hair conditioner to see if it would bounce back.
I have found the Master's brush soap and preserver to be quite good
I use a couple synthetic brushes just for washes, since the super thinned down paint will wick straight up into the ferrules every time.
I gotta say I've just come across your channel and your videos are amazing! Please keep up the good work.
The longest I've ever had a brush last was 20 years, 15 as a prime brush then another 5 as a utility brush for all sorts, it was never given much more than a swill around the water pot for a clean but i have always added a very tiny amount of washing up liquid (about the size of a peanut of volume) to my water pot. I've found good quality Sable Brushes split anyway regardless if there is paint in the ferrule or not, its just more obvious to see if the is paint getting into the ferrule of the brush.
I am guilty of storing my brushes point up, so I need to probably correct that. I use The Masters brush cleaner and it definitely seems to help. Cheers!
I use a few different cleaners but the latest one seems good. Master Werks cleaner and conditioner
Windsor & newton brush & hand cleaner works great for each session and if you let it rest a bit will start to get at the old paints. the master's brush cleaner & restorer works great to preserve, and the soap for cleaning the paints off your hands, under nails, and enamels/oils too. i use vms clean slate rmvr 2.0 for deep cleans or aztek universal acrylic cleaner, but that is some nasty stuff, wear gloves and a filtered mask.
Literally needed this!
Mouldy Wet Pallet, my pallet consists of a Jaye Cloth instead of a sponge and parchment paper for the paint. Very cheap to replace as I only use half the Jaye Cloth.
Windsor and newton . Best tip restore is to add some water to a hotplate and heat it . Roll the tip as the water evaporates . Best on synthetic brushes.
I use gel hand sanattizer to clean my brushes and hot water and a bar of soap to condition them. It's worked pretty well so far. Even dollar store brushes last months.
Well I learned a bit and learned what to not do with the palette thank you for the info and love the merch now I have to decide what to get on pay day
It means a lot!
Vallejo’s Brush Restorer can work some miracles
Thank you for all the tips and tricks...your videos have helped very much!!!! I don't paint Minis but I do paint my 3D Models. Your vids are still very relevant!!!
Thank you!
I remember one time when I dipped my brush Abbadon black, and then realized how l late it is went to bed. After that got up to do some more painting and found my brush in it's a Abandon black shell my Dad managed to get it off with paint stripper.
Thanks for the video. I simply rince my sponge with vinegar when I change my paper, vinegar is super effective "as is", no need to boil it ^^
Maybe I still have vinegar on my sponge and that's why it's weird?
@@LylaMev hum maybe. After using the vinegar I wash it a second time with regular soap
Very handy tips. Thanks!
Excellent tips throughout your video. Appreciate your time and effort to help us.
Pool noodle idea is dope thanks
Have you tried Silver Brush Black Velvet, they are made of squirrel hair and black synthetic. They use to be really cheap, but not anymore of course. However they hold a great point, but they also curve. Some of my favorite non-sable brushes.
I just bought one of these, but I haven't used it yet. I'm excited to try. Not really one I've heard much about. Glad to know someone has had a positive experience. Amazon reviews are too easy to buy to trust too much.
@@Ali626AMM I never bought brushes from amazon, pretty risky on there. At first I wasn’t a fan, I expected to be more like sable but after a few uses and no jay hooks I dig em.
@@Ghostly_Shadows I bought a Raphael brush and it is absolutely amazing for gradients across larger surfaces. I was doing dragon wings. 3 color blends across surfaces that are 2.5x4.5" with perfection. I'm in love. I hope the Silver brushes are as nice and I like it better than the Windsor and Newton that I bought on Amazon that I'm convinced have to be fake to be so bad.
@@Ali626AMM I love my Raphael’s and other sables, but synthetics these are the only ones I have actually liked.
Thanks for the tips!
Great tips! I’ve been meaning to try Dr. Faust’s tile wet palette idea… I’ve been adding a splash of ammonia to my wet palette but I sometimes neglect doing so out of laziness.
I put a little rubbing alcohol into my wet pallet to skip nasty stuff from growing. That and plus a cool basement, I've never had mold even though I leave my pallet for weeks at a time without cleaning.
I keep my wet palette in the fridge just to reduce prep time to get to painting; nothing kills my motivation more than thinking about what I need to do first just to get paint on a model. When I'm done painting, I add some extra water, put a lid on it (not airtight!) and chuck it in. When I get back to painting, I grab the palette from the fridge, fiddle with the water level, put on a paper and it's good to go. No weird smells have developed so far. I also throw the sponge in the microwave every now and then to steam off any gribblies that might be lurking in it.
The most useful painting video I have watched in weeks!
Wow, thank you!
Thank you for the god-tier info Miss Witch!
murphy's oil mixture with water works just into the bristles works best to restore brushes for me
Windsor and Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer works great for me (Guy from Midwinter did a video on it). For the wet palette, I just use parchment paper ($1.50 a roll at the dollar store, discard after every couple of uses - a bit of effort to cut to size for my masterson wet palette, but oh, so inexpensive. Same for the sponge - thin cellulose sponges from dollar store, replace when they get nasty)
Best WP paper is matersons . I tried many and only matersons holds up to long term use. Even as far as washing the paint off and reusing it for 2nd and even 3rd paint sessions . Soooo worth it .
I use windsor and newton brush cleaner/restorer. it will strip the paint off the handle so you don't want to dip it beyond the ferrule.
Mold can be killed, but the stains will stay. Easily done with most bathroom cleaners or anything with chlorine in it. Alcohol could work too, but it has to be high proof (70% and up) and it needs time to kill the mold.
Thanks for the tip with the poolnoodle.
Thanks for the tips.
Solid tips. Thank you
I use cheap walmart basic premium synthetics for minis as they cost 5-10$ for a 10 pack of various sizes and I can do anything with them that I could with the absurdly expensive premiums like Winsors or Davinchis. Those needing to be properly conditioned and handled with kid gloves is too much a con for the very little pro they offer. it just isnt worth the hassle when you can buy 10x more brushes and just get to painting, and toss them out when they eventually fray or split, as opposed to feeling like you just wrecked $50 brush because you forgot to dry it upside down, or put conditioner on it the night before.
To clean the spunge of your wet-pallet, I'd suggest isopropyl alcohol. It effectively kills mold (IPA is the active ingredient in almost all industrial strength desinfectant) and also disolves most of the paint that seeped into your sponge (interior decorators use it to remove acrylic paint that accidentally got onto surfaces) . Just soak the sponge in the recipient of your wet pallet for some time (préférably over night) and rince abundantly the next day with clean water. That should do the trick.
it sounds like i might need to do a video on wet palette cleaning hacks.
For what it's worth, I tried IPA and it destroyed the sponge
@@JonathanTaylorW Well. Don't let it soak in IPA. What I do is I water the IPA down to about a 50:50 mix when working with 99% pure IPA, and squirt some of it on the sponge, then rub it and soak immediately. I repeat that a couple of times until I am convinced, I can't get any more paint out (which is not the main reason I am doing this, but to kill mold).
I am still using the original sponges of my Kickstarter Redgrass palette and have no mold issues or issues with the sponge not working anymore.
@@travelminipainter thanks bud! I'll give it a go. I'll also try and pick up a redgrass wet palette if I can as well
I should have made it clear in my original post and my reply that the soaking part overnight is with *diluted* IPA, never *pure* IPA. Sorry if that caused any confusion.
The rubbing part comes in, once the soaking has been done (couple of hours).
Another trick to prevent mold is putting some rubbing alcohol on the sponge. Not too much because it can damage things. It is water soluble so it shouldn't affect things much. But I would test it on different paints for effect.
Dried paint can be removed with acetone but only bristles
To settle it can be used clai On the hair or beard bristles then shaped to dry before use rinse in water
Years ago, Newtype USA used to run Gunpla articles (Gundam model building). That author suggested the acetone thing too. They said to take a glass jar with acetone, and rubber-band your brushes together and suspend them in the acetone. It takes a couple of days, but it WILL get the dried paint out.
Just don't manage to get brushes with plastic handles to fall INTO the jar. You will end up with a puddle of goo and bristles. It also smells up the room you're doing this in. I used to do it right before going out of town for the weekend.
thanks this helps me a lot.
Can't remember which Painting UA-camr mentioned it for mold, but they recommended washing the sponge as best as you can. Squeeze out 80% of the water then microwave the sponge for 10-15 seconds on repeat till the sponge is hot to the touch. Rinse. I did this to mine and no more mold or smell.
What was the briefly mentioned cleaning product that ruined the brush?
Using a separate (crappy) brush to scoop paint out of the pot is probably the best lesson I've learned. Getting a big glob of undiluted paint all over your main brush is terrible, even if you rinse it off right away.
Masteres brush cleaner, it really good stuff. Leave a bit in the brush to shape it as it dries
I know this is late, but you probably don't want to wash anything with antimicrobial soap. Soap in of itself is antimicrobial because of physics it disrupts the micro bacteria's cell membrane and then the way that the soap adheres to water molecules will wash what is left down the drain. Most antimicrobial soaps use low levels of antibiotics and have been known to increase antibiotic resistances. Also fungi have different cell walls then other micros so the antibiotics probably are not going to work anyway because their mechanism of action tends to be very specific targeting certain weak points in the cell wall/membrane. Give or take it's been a few years since I had this class. Sorry if this is annoying, I just feel the need to share to try and combat the issues of antibiotic resistance. Your videos are very useful and help me out a lot!
how do you keep your brush from splitting while you're in the middle of using it? I'm doing an action figure repaint and the brush I'm using is brand new and when I start it's fine but eventually it ends up with the dreaded split.
could someone tell me where i could find her water cup? Seems perfect
Odd question but, what would you do to clean up a model that has brush strokes showing? I’ve tried water on brush to smooth and a very thin almost wash top still meh….
copper tape in the bottom of your wet pallet helps as well.
well, i'm realy new to the hobby and run on a low budget, so i was terrefied when my best brush, the on that came with the army painter starter set, started to develop 4 tips. i browsed the internet and the best tip i got was Shampoo (and conditioner for real hair brushes).
So I thought to myself "you can't kill what's allready dead" and started to clean the brush, and I did it 'violently'. I have done things to this poor little brush other people would send the Boyz with the "hug yourself jacket" to me. I soaked the brush into the shampoo, pressed it firmly with the tip against the palm of my hand and started drilling it untill the brissles stood out into all directions, washed it out and reatarted the process, allways getting some shampoo into the 'faucette'(??? the metall part) and after a while i got my beloved starter brush back. If I had known I could have rescued the tip by putting it into boiling water I wouldn't have cut it, but even without the top part of the tip it is still the brush i would choose if I could only choose one brush to paint a mini.
In extreme cases I go a bit further and put the wet and shampooed brush aside, brissles up, and let the soap water sink into the faucette and do it's magic for about 1-2 houresor overnight befor restarting the process.
I hope it helps and you may rescue a brush in the future :)
for brush storage, is is ok to store it horizontally? the only brush storage i have are 'samurai racks'