haha perhaps I should have tossed in more strip wood. These have been doing well with 5/16" wing offset, but it looks like yours has done ok without any. Flight times have been improving with bigger props like the IKARA wide blade and .100" rubber. My last test hop was 2:19, so I anticipate a 2:30 sometime soon.
It could have done 2:30 in there if I'd had slightly thicker rubber and more time, but I felt it was more important to get the video released than to wait another week for better footage. It's clearly a very capable airplane. No worries on the wood, I had enough, just pushed it a bit trying to be cute. Oops!
Isn't it amazing how simple controlled flight really is, ...and yet, it took man thousands of years of technological understanding to achieve the simple demonstration for this video.
Nice recovery from strikes. This plane can tolerate ceiling bumping. That is a big advantage in low ceilings. Most of the SO planes have a far higher apogee than the ceilings flown under.
A note for those building the Tandemite: the motorstick brace has been added to multiple finished planes in order to fix a reluctance to climb at high torque. If Josh had done this, it would be clawing its way up at a 40-degree grade!
Hey Josh. You’re using CA for most of the build. All the stuff I’ve read says use something that you can dissolve for repairs. Is this just to be quick for the video? Or is this good general practice much if the time? Thanks.
So the fact is that if the glue joints are good, the plane won't break there, and thus there's no benefit from being able to dissolve them. That said, I use CA for anything that isn't extremely weight critical, exposed to nitromethane fuel, or needs to be able to repositioned (such as a hollow tailboom). For weight critical applications I use either thinned Duco, Nitrocellulose, or white glue in the case of installing wing ribs. I've heard a lot of claims that CA is brittle or sensitive to vibration, but that simply isn't so. I've assembled entire planes (except for glassing the firewall) from CA to be powered by K&B 6.5 and similar high vibration engines and have yet to fail a glue joint due to vibration.
8 grams is light for this kind of model? I've had models with similar airframes and similar glide to weight ratio come out at about 2.5 grams they flew about the same I didn't realize 8g was acceptable in my mind anything over 4 was requiring a rebuild. I have a Davis DA2A peanut scale model that came out flying at six and i thought it was heavy.
I love it joushua can you tell me other woods I can use instead of balsa wood I’m your biggest fan I’m a ten year old boy I really love F1D but every time I make one it does not fly please tell me other types of wood and a tutorial on how to make it
What is your reason for wanting to avoid using balsa? There are some tutorials around for making some basic models using bamboo, however it is quite difficult. It is not possible to build an F1D without balsa.
@@sulaimanbalout order it online. Good balsa is not available in stores. Model Aviation Products has contest grade wood suitable for everything down to Pennyplane, and you can get 1/64" contest C grain from Specialized Balsa so you can make ministicks and F1L (1.2g EZB). F1D will require you to order from indoorffsupply.com as they are the only supplier of such wood.
@@Blau-Zeigen-vh2zt fair enough. I've gotten a lot of trolls on here lately making fun of happy old men flying whimsical planes and it's gotten me a bit salty. So I'm sorry for coming off so harshly. 😔
haha perhaps I should have tossed in more strip wood. These have been doing well with 5/16" wing offset, but it looks like yours has done ok without any. Flight times have been improving with bigger props like the IKARA wide blade and .100" rubber. My last test hop was 2:19, so I anticipate a 2:30 sometime soon.
It could have done 2:30 in there if I'd had slightly thicker rubber and more time, but I felt it was more important to get the video released than to wait another week for better footage. It's clearly a very capable airplane. No worries on the wood, I had enough, just pushed it a bit trying to be cute. Oops!
How do you know where to balance the airplane?
I use the tail volume coefficient method: themmmclub.lasercutplanes.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Tail-Volume-Coefficient.pdf
Can you just do a video that seems to complicated to read I am a visual learner
Wonderful ! Nice flight !
hey josh lookin good mate, were can i find kits like this?
Shoot me an email and I'll put you in touch with Paul.
How to make it fly slow?
Really a nice plane, flies great too! Always enjoy watching your videos 🙂
Thanks!
Isn't it amazing how simple controlled flight really is, ...and yet,
it took man thousands of years of technological understanding to achieve the simple demonstration for this video.
Indeed. Flight is so complex, but true skill is reducing it to its minimum components.
Nice build and flight video…don’t we all have some projects going, never ending 😉
Nice recovery from strikes. This plane can tolerate ceiling bumping. That is a big advantage in low ceilings. Most of the SO planes have a far higher apogee than the ceilings flown under.
Yeah it's a really sweet flying plane.
60 years ago, I used wax paper to cover the the plan. I used parchment paper for the skin. And I soaked balsa wood in water so it could get the arch!
Yup! Parchment paper is supposed to be non-stick but some of it isn't.
A note for those building the Tandemite: the motorstick brace has been added to multiple finished planes in order to fix a reluctance to climb at high torque. If Josh had done this, it would be clawing its way up at a 40-degree grade!
I was only launching at .35-.4 in oz which is why it climbed so sedately. With a big flaring prop it must be absolutely amazing.
Hey Josh. You’re using CA for most of the build. All the stuff I’ve read says use something that you can dissolve for repairs. Is this just to be quick for the video? Or is this good general practice much if the time? Thanks.
So the fact is that if the glue joints are good, the plane won't break there, and thus there's no benefit from being able to dissolve them. That said, I use CA for anything that isn't extremely weight critical, exposed to nitromethane fuel, or needs to be able to repositioned (such as a hollow tailboom). For weight critical applications I use either thinned Duco, Nitrocellulose, or white glue in the case of installing wing ribs. I've heard a lot of claims that CA is brittle or sensitive to vibration, but that simply isn't so. I've assembled entire planes (except for glassing the firewall) from CA to be powered by K&B 6.5 and similar high vibration engines and have yet to fail a glue joint due to vibration.
@@joshuawfinn very helpful, thanks.
Your videos are a great service to the sport. Much appreciation.
8 grams is light for this kind of model? I've had models with similar airframes and similar glide to weight ratio come out at about 2.5 grams they flew about the same I didn't realize 8g was acceptable in my mind anything over 4 was requiring a rebuild. I have a Davis DA2A peanut scale model that came out flying at six and i thought it was heavy.
Competition rules to limit performance; also most of the students operating these have almost no building or flying background.
Good job I want one
Shoot me an email and I'll put you in touch with Paul to get an order started.
Joshua
You really kill me. I have 2 acres and now I want to fly indoor in the nice evenings like you 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤣🤣
How did you get it to fly through the fence line ? Mine would find the barbed wire 😢
I just got lucky on that one. It wasn't exactly calm out...less than ideal conditions.
Squawks “wants own UA-cam channel “.
do it man. I got 3 acres and I fly here all the time
I love it joushua can you tell me other woods I can use instead of balsa wood I’m your biggest fan I’m a ten year old boy I really love F1D but every time I make one it does not fly please tell me other types of wood and a tutorial on how to make it
What is your reason for wanting to avoid using balsa? There are some tutorials around for making some basic models using bamboo, however it is quite difficult. It is not possible to build an F1D without balsa.
@@joshuawfinnbut I don’t have any balsa I tried buying but nothing can you give me some ideas
@@sulaimanbalout order it online. Good balsa is not available in stores. Model Aviation Products has contest grade wood suitable for everything down to Pennyplane, and you can get 1/64" contest C grain from Specialized Balsa so you can make ministicks and F1L (1.2g EZB). F1D will require you to order from indoorffsupply.com as they are the only supplier of such wood.
@@joshuawfinnthanks a lot
@@joshuawfinnbut I also live in the UAE so it’s in dollars it’s fine but if there is some way I can make it dirhams😊
what is os fılm
muito bom.
❤
I see you're stubborn and do not Follow instructions
I see you're oblivious and do not Listen when I say the manufacturer is a personal friend of mine.
@@joshuawfinn that's Great man I just thought there was potential for humor there hahaha
@@Blau-Zeigen-vh2zt fair enough. I've gotten a lot of trolls on here lately making fun of happy old men flying whimsical planes and it's gotten me a bit salty. So I'm sorry for coming off so harshly. 😔