How to Clean your Airbrush when painting Warhammer, tabletop miniatures, scale models & busts
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- This is the third in our short series of videos introducing airbrushing as a way of painting your miniatures. We have taught airbrushing classes to people all over the world. Using Warhammer, Bolt Action, Star Wars Legion, and our own 54mm models and busts amongst others. They are a fantastic tool to have in your painting toolkit.
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- Winsor & Newton Series 7 Watercolour and miniature
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As someone who's trying to get into airbrushing, i really appreciate these easy to understand videos! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Mate thank you so so much for this guide!!! I genuinely thought something was wrong as I had cleaned my brush from inside to out several times but no joy. But on about the fourth clean, a tiny ring of dried clear vanish popped out!
The added bonus is you have taken away all my fear of disassembling and reassembling my gun. I even changed the trigger around so I can use it left handed.
Thanks again!
These videos are so satisfying 👌🏻
new in airbrush world! thank you for sharing the things i should know and figuring out with my airbrush. appreciated much! always be inspiration!
You're welcome thanks for commenting.
Thank you for the series on airbrushing. I have just used my Cult of Paint Evolution for the first time to prime miniatures in black and white. I found the maintenance and cleaning very useful and helped me to clean everything up for the next painting session. Thank you again and all the best.
Awesome!
Really great video!
Thank you!
Thanks for this great video. I've just started out a hobby business in commission painting and getting on of your airbrush packages is on my financial goals list. I have a cheap airbrush which is serving me well for priming, base coating and some small detail work. I'm just about to use some Tamiya Clear paint after watching your great tutorial on the Ultramarines.
Glad you’re enjoying the videos, and good luck with the commission business.
Thanks for the video, the much more subtle Background music was a lot better than on the last video.
haha glad to hear it!
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you 👍
great video, keep em up
Thanks, will do!
Great series, thank you for these. I brought an air brush few months back. A package deal, brush,compressor etc. I blocked it up using ironbreaker..oops 😬.
Managed to get it going again though. Keep the videos coming. Thank you..
Glad you got it sorted!
Great artist‼︎ Thanks for sharing‼︎
Thanks!
I didn't know that nozzle flare was an issue. Thanks for the tip
Thanks for watching!
Really helped me with the cleaning between paints! Thanks a lot!
Great to hear!
One thing i never do is pull the needle out through the back - this way you run the risk of dragging paint back through the airbrush. I always remove the nozzle and push the needle forwards, if there is any residual paint on the needle it will be dragged forward to the area you will have to clean anyway.
If your brush does not have the additional seal like our Harder & Steenbeck, and you are very careful when handling the front of the needle (particularly smaller than 0.3mm) I can see the merit in this.
@@cultofpaint I have the H&S Evolution and I've been pulling my needle out the front as FPAlpha describes. Does the Evolution have this extra seal, or is it just your version of it? I don't want to bust my seal! Great vids by the way.
@@chrish2879 Pulling the needle out forward shouldn't damage the seal. I meant it in that i dont worry about pulling my needle out through the back as if i've missed any paint the seal should catch it.
Agreed, I've always pulled the needle out from the front. I have had paint in the seals once, it's not fun.
@@cultofpaint my above comment was referring to a H&S Evo, one of the first ones. Remember, while the seals are good, they're the width of the body of the needle. If paint from the body of the needle is wiped onto the tapered part of the needle by those seals, it gets inside them. Granted, it's only happened to me once in fifteen years of using an airbrush, but once it did it needed a new seal kit.
Love this guys! Great video!
One question I have is, how do you clean your airbrush after using a gloss varnish?
Exactly the same way as with the paint. If I’ve been varnishing a lot of stuff I’ll also use a qtip to clean the end (just pull the needle back so it’s out the way)
EDIT: Wrote this the second before you went on to explain in the video!
I've not used the backflow method to mix paints or aid in cleaning as I read that it can push paint back up the airbrush and can be a nightmare to clean. I'm using a cheap no brand airbrush I got in Amazon to learn before making a serious investment.
Is the 'backflow no no' a myth? I'd be more inclined to follow your process than some randoms' on a forum :)
Thanks for all the content - some great learning to be had.
It’s the method I’ve used for years and generally have trouble free airbrushing. But I guess the “best” way would be mix separately and pour in.
i hope h&s revise their version 2 nozzles with platinum alloy same as iwata
Great video! I recently bought the cult of paint infinity airbrush as my first ever based on this video.
I almost wrecked it the first time I used it despite watching this video twice before using it (used scale 75 balck primer unthinned (somewhere I read you don't need thinner or flow improver for this - yes I am an idiot I know), then I bent the needle tip when pulling it through the brush because I removed the back body and chuck before pulling the needle :(. Then I had to clean paint in the back part of the brush between the trigger and seal, which probably got there before I even pulled the needle due to blockages.
Luckily I have a replacement needle that I'll put in after I've watched this video another five times so I avoid breaking it.
I wish I could get a class by you guys in my country on how to use this tool, instead of trying to learn how to use such an expensive tool here by myself.
You make it look so easy in your videos - so far I feel like I spend more time trying to get a proper consistency of the paint, clearing dry tips, thorough cleaning because of paint spillages from not tightening the cup and airhead enough, and feeling stressed out from fearing that I'll ruin the brush while painting instead of enjoying it :(
Wow you have had a hard start!! The best piece of advice we can give is don't be afraid of the brush. Yes you can bend the needle and yes you can crack the nozzle, but if you follow what we've covered in these videos you will be OK. It is an expensive brush, but you should use it for everything, priming, basecoats, varnish, detail work etc. Enjoy!
@@cultofpaint I tried it again yesterday evening and got it working like a charm and managed to basecoat 5 space marines beautifully. I’m so happy I got back into it and was able to relax this time. It was also much easier to clean this time, since I followed your guide much closer. What a wonderful tool! Thanks for your encouragement :)
Nice one!
This is a great series on airbrushes I think... Could you do one that shows your step by step process painting multiple colors through your airgun?
I feel like I waste a lot of time cleaning my airgun between switching colors and I'm kind of unsure how people change colors so fast.
If I'm using a very similar colour to what i've used previously. e.g. a blue then a lighter shade of blue, i just skip the airbrush cleaner stage. Other than that it's exactly what have shown in the video.
Is it possible with the Infinity to remove the needle from the front instead of the back?
EDIT: I guess you can as shown later in the video.
great video, one more reason to steal the other halfs cotton buds hahah
Haha true!
Great series, thanks. Follow up question: i know it wasnt in the demo, but wondered if there is a benefit to be had by only removing the needle through the front of the brush (and replacing from the back) to avoid pulling paint flakes etc through the rear seals? Obviously this is only when doing a full clean and the nozzle is removed first. Thanks again.
Yep go for it, plenty of people do it this way. Only thing to be wary of, particularly if your brush has a small needle (0.2mm), is that you don't damage the tip.
Some invaluable info for us new to airbrushing. Thanks a lot fellas. My one question is, cleaning after spraying enamels or oils, will standard airbrush cleaner do or do we need to switch to something like thinners etc...?
I’d use isopropyl. It’ll clean anything! Just make sure your airbrush seals are rated for using solvents.
Great, super simple guide! I follow all of these steps with my H&S evolution and never have a problem. I use IPA as a cleaner, do you think that’s too harsh? It’s cheaper than branded cleaner and I’m not sure what additional benefits are to using specific cleaner
IPA is fine, and if you've a decent brush (which you have!) there's nothing to worry about.
Great video. Have just started airbrushing and the bit I find most tedious is cleaning between colours as it does seem to take forever to flush the old colour out (I have the h&s evolution).
One thing I’ve noticed on every airbrushing video on YT, is that no one has the end ‘collar’ that protects the tip of the needle on when they paint....and no one has even mentioned it as far as I’m aware.....why does everyone take it off?
So the needle guard is a tricky one. Depending on its shape it can collect a lot of paint. If you are using a small gauge needle like 0.2mm then they are very fragile, so consider that before removing it.
@@cultofpaint cool, cheers for that....yes mine does collect a lot of paint 😂. I got the H&S with two needles so am using the one that came fitted with it (i THINK it’s the 0.2mm as there’s a tube saying 0.4mm still in the box). Will swap out as it seems most people use a 0.3-0.4mm needle. Is there a way to identify the gauge of a needle if it’s just laying on a work surface and out of any identifying packages?
Ps cheers for the reply 👍
How do you feel about the needle and nozzle sitting in a little bath of airbrush cleaner?
Thannks for this, I'm thinking of getting an airbrush to try out. Would a cheap one from ebay be OK for priming and base coating.
The cheap ones that you typically get with the compressors are fine to get an understanding of how an airbrush works. But as we say in the Intro to Airbrushing series, getting a decent brush will give you a much better chance of getting to grips with the basics and enjoying yourself.
Great series, thank you very much. Currently I want to introduce/use the airbrush into my painting as a second tool beside the brush. At this moment I used it only for base coating... I don't paint daily and some days I only paint for one hour, I think that's what holding me back of using it more (cleaning,...). Any advice?
I know it might sound boring, but just practice. Practice changing out colours and cleaning. You will get efficient with it.
I notice you push the needle all the way into the airbrush. I've seen tutorials in adjusting the needle. What do you recommend?
I just received your Cult of Paint Infinity this weekend from Artis Opus - such a beautiful piece of kit. You also answered one of my main questions in here, where I was getting bubbling (due to the air cap not being tight enough).
I do have some further questions on your airbrush if you would indulge me:
1. There are two other components that come in the small Infinity case; one which looks like a cylindrical needle cap with a hole in the center (how is this different from the 'pronged' version?) as well as a small solid rod with a thinner tip. What are these both for?
2. Do you use needle oil/super lube, and why (not)?
Thanks for picking up the brush!!
Answers:
1. It's just a needle guard for when the brush is being transported, extra protection from H&S. I've not used it since it came out the box. The small rod is a key to remove the middle collar on the brush (gold thing with holes in). Once you have done this once, if you only tighten it back up using your fingers then you probably won't need the key again.
2. Very very occasionally I use a small amount of lube on the needle. This is only if I've used a lot of isopropyl alcohol to clean anything. If you use too much then it can cause issues.
@@cultofpaint Thanks for the reply, and keep up the great content :)
Have you ever used Simple Green (or similar all-purpose cleaners) on your airbrush? I've got an Iwata HP-CS, only had it for a few months, and I've noticed that the inside of the cup around the needle seems like it's worn through the nickel and down to the brass or copper or whatever, and I'm wondering if it's because of using that.
I've not used simple, only the cleaner i mention in this video and occasional isopropyl, but the inside of the cup on a couple of my airbrushes are as you describe. It takes of the nickel coating over time revealing the brass. Nothing to worry about, but also one of the reasons I don't ultrasonic bath my brush as I don't want it happening to the outside.
I keep getting paint between the cup and the trigger. Just where the needle is entering the cup. I don't backflow to mix, to prevent this as much as possible to happen. But still happens. How do you clean that part of the brush ?
I've heard the back flow method can put pressure on the machining of the brush.
I'd be interested to see any sources for that information. It would surprise me that such a low air pressure could damage welded brass, and isn't something i've experienced in 10 years of air brushing.
@@cultofpaint It was from NJM, another painting youtuber. He seems pretty well informed when it comes to these things.
I'm kind of in agreement of you though, I can't imagine it damaging the brush.
@@juble7086 Big fan of NJM, I will look into it further, but in 10 years of doing it i've not noticed any issues at all on my H&S brushes.
it never takes seconds. It takes 3-4 repeats to get all of the paint completly washed out. And if you are using titanium white (like in white ink) it will take you a dozen repeats. It is still the fastest way to do an airbrush clean up though. Just as a novice be ready for this tidious process after preshading, when it's the tenth time you are washing the airbrush - and the water\cleaner turns opaque white again.
Never is a pretty strong statement, and perhaps if you're finding white ink such an issue then consider using Tamiya Flat White instead, like I've shown in this video.
@@cultofpaint will give it a try
Inks are great for certain jobs, but tam white for preshade is just a joy.
Hi Henry,please can you tell me if it was possible to adapt other needle size from H&S like sizes 0.15mm and 0.2mm on the Cult of Paint Black H&S airbrush,thanks a lot !!Cheers,Jo
Yes you can. All the parts are interchangeable with all other Infinity parts. To change the needle size you also need to change the nozzle and headset
Just bent my needle because it fell down while I was reaching for my phone to make it louder... after a year of airbrushing and thinking Ill learn something new, one moment of carlessness 💀 can I still spray at least large areas with a slightly bent needle?
Is it not better to pull the dirty needle forward hanging removed the nozzle to avoid bring paint back through the brush?
Yes
Just wondering if that cool trigger is a spare part for the infinity I already own?
Currently it’s only available on our 2 sig. series brushes. We don’t know if H&S plans to make it available separately.
@@cultofpaint thanks for the quick reply, I will wait and see, shame i didn't know about your shops variation before i bought mine
What are you using for cleaning after using tamiya paints or other non water based paints? Isopropanol?
Usually just the airbrush cleaner followed by water. But some of the lighter colours we'll use a drop of IPA.
Cult of Paint hm. Would this even work with enamel colors?
Yes
what are your thoughts on using an ultrasonic cleaner on an airbrush? Are they effective?
They are fine. I would only suggest using it on the nozzle and needle. But we've found the general maintenance covered in the video does the job.
Got mine yesterday and love it but few questions can I use normal tap water for cleaning or does it need to be distilled water ?? For some reason the paint flow adjuster on the back while push down when it’s not attached to the airbrush but trying to do it while it’s in the airbrush does nothing
Ignore the second part of the questions I was being stupid figured it out
Haha good good. With regards to water, I've only ever used normal tap water and have had zero issues.
@@cultofpaint thanks a lot appreciate the help
i know this is talking to somebody who probably painted more than i will ever do..
but isn't it better to pull the needle back a little bit to protect the point, unscrew the front, then take the needle out the front better than dragging paint, even if it is a little bit, through the action of the brush?
negligible, but by all means do that. Just be aware that if you've a small gauge needle e.g. 0.2mm then you're going to have a much higher chance of damaging it, so touching the point as little as possible is good practice. Certain brushes, like our sig. series also have a triple seal system, which really helps prevent paint getting dragged back. On top of all of that we're hardly ever removing the needle.
How often you clean it? After every paiting session?
It gets cleaned in between each colour. unless they are very simialr and being used on top of each other e.g. grey, then a lighter grey.
@@cultofpaint Between colors when I work on single minature do I need to clean it super hard like you showed in your clean video or destiled water + blowing will be enough?
So you used here black, ocean grey 2, ulthuan grey and White.
If I skip black and use can spray for black - do I need to clean between Ocean Grey 2, Ulthuan and White?
Interesting watching different people's approaches to doing this. Banshee just dumps the top half of the brush in a cup of water and blows air through between colours. Vincent V swears by never dumping the remainder paint into a pot by spraying through the air brush in the way you do but adds more water to the cup and tips out instead. Lots of people who regularly use an airbrush and all have different ideas about how you should clean between colours.
Lots of ways to make it work. All we can do is be honest and say how we do it, and why.
@@cultofpaint absolutely. Each to their own. Out of interest how does your infinity differ from the standard one?
@@bcw2251 I just got one this weekend, and aside from the paint job I think it's just the trigger mechanism - happy to be corrected.
@@bcw2251 The trigger is completely unique, designed by us. Ours comes with PTFE seals as standard and the other major difference is the weight, our whole body and backpiece are aluminium ( on the other off the shelf inifinty's its only the orange back piece that is) so it weighs a good deal less.
When cleaning does it have to be distilled water?
I've never used it and not had any issues. I guess it depends on what your tap water is like.
I swear you're the dude from Scale War Machines.
Never heard of them, just went to check out, that's some great content, will be enjoying that!!
similar accent but different voice
hi, is there a cr plus version of this?
Of which? Our evo effectively is a cr plus with additions. Our infinity is a higher spec than the cr plus, featuring both an aluminium body and back piece.
Cult of Paint the infinity is not
i just hope to get a cr plus version of inifinity which includes, paint cup, valve body, front end, trigger, center piece, and back end
We can assure you that it is. The CR plus is the standard Infinity. Ours features 2 cups and a full aluminium body ( body on cr plus is only plated brass). In addition it comes with our signature trigger. It is compatible with all Infinity parts.