i just completed my Gen 2 Coupe. The issues I had with the hood are the same as you described. I adjusted my hood before any sheet metal work, engine / cooling system installation etc. I found it was much easier to: 1. Align the front pontoon with the wheel opening on the hood and clamp in place.. I used a 3/16" shim between the hood and pontoon to ensure a consistent gap. This will cause the hood to overlap the cowl and locate the hood hinge mounting points. 2. Then I installed the hood hinges to the frame, located mounting points on the fog light buckets and bolted in place. 3. You will most likely have to grind and form the hinge sheet metal to fit the body. 4. After mounting the hood hinges you will want to open the hood until the hood opens just past its balance point. You may have to do considerable grinding on the hinge mount to achieve this degree of opening. Doing this will reduce the load on the gas struts when the hood is fully open. 5. Attach masking tape to the cowl in order to mark the location of the hood where it overlaps. You can then transfer the dimensions to the hood for grinding. I used a piece of 1/16" x 2" aluminum flat bar formed to the hood to act as a guide for trimming the hood. In my case I had to trim about 1-1/2". I used a jig saw with a blade designed to cut fiberglass. 6. The radiator outlet aluminum (the "kettle") was installed after the body, hood and doors were aligned and painted. I figured it was easier to align the kettle to the nose than align the nose to the kettle. 7. It is probably obvious to you, but don't finalize the nose alignment to the pontoons until the splash aluminum is installed. That is about all I know. If you want to take the discussion off-line, give me your contact information and I will give you a call.
I move my hood around with my engine lift through the hood opening using a piece of 8 x 2 and some chains, the hood is balanced through the opening and is easy to move around with one person, keep the great videos coming
I know your videos are behind your actual progress. So probably you're past this point with the actual build. But FYI, in case you haven't figured it out yet or seen from other builds, the front cowl has some of that famous Factory Five asymmetry in it. Measuring the wheel lips as you show is the right thing to do. But you'll find they're not the same on both sides. The RH side sticks out further than the LH side. If you make them equal, the cowl actually will be slightly off center and cause other fitment challenges. I used a laser to find the exact center of the cowl and used that as a reference line to the chassis versus the wheel lips. Cheated as much as I could all around to get it to fit. In the end, in the range of 1/2" difference side-to-side at the wheel lips. I've talked to several other builders who confirmed the same thing. Only you will know about when it's done.
I have noticed the same issue and cheated it as you did. Fits really well now but the next video will highlight the nose opening issue I really screwed up. Thanks for the comment,
i just completed my Gen 2 Coupe. The issues I had with the hood are the same as you described. I adjusted my hood before any sheet metal work, engine / cooling system installation etc. I found it was much easier to:
1. Align the front pontoon with the wheel opening on the hood and clamp in place.. I used a 3/16" shim between the hood and pontoon to ensure a consistent gap. This will cause the hood to overlap the cowl and locate the hood hinge mounting points.
2. Then I installed the hood hinges to the frame, located mounting points on the fog light buckets and bolted in place.
3. You will most likely have to grind and form the hinge sheet metal to fit the body.
4. After mounting the hood hinges you will want to open the hood until the hood opens just past its balance point. You may have to do considerable grinding on the hinge mount to achieve this degree of opening. Doing this will reduce the load on the gas struts when the hood is fully open.
5. Attach masking tape to the cowl in order to mark the location of the hood where it overlaps. You can then transfer the dimensions to the hood for grinding. I used a piece of 1/16" x 2" aluminum flat bar formed to the hood to act as a guide for trimming the hood. In my case I had to trim about 1-1/2". I used a jig saw with a blade designed to cut fiberglass.
6. The radiator outlet aluminum (the "kettle") was installed after the body, hood and doors were aligned and painted. I figured it was easier to align the kettle to the nose than align the nose to the kettle.
7. It is probably obvious to you, but don't finalize the nose alignment to the pontoons until the splash aluminum is installed.
That is about all I know. If you want to take the discussion off-line, give me your contact information and I will give you a call.
I move my hood around with my engine lift through the hood opening using a piece of 8 x 2 and some chains, the hood is balanced through the opening and is easy to move around with one person, keep the great videos coming
That’s a great idea. Wouldn’t need anyone to help. Thank you!
I would get the hood fitting right, then shim the hinge .
I know your videos are behind your actual progress. So probably you're past this point with the actual build. But FYI, in case you haven't figured it out yet or seen from other builds, the front cowl has some of that famous Factory Five asymmetry in it. Measuring the wheel lips as you show is the right thing to do. But you'll find they're not the same on both sides. The RH side sticks out further than the LH side. If you make them equal, the cowl actually will be slightly off center and cause other fitment challenges. I used a laser to find the exact center of the cowl and used that as a reference line to the chassis versus the wheel lips. Cheated as much as I could all around to get it to fit. In the end, in the range of 1/2" difference side-to-side at the wheel lips. I've talked to several other builders who confirmed the same thing. Only you will know about when it's done.
I have noticed the same issue and cheated it as you did. Fits really well now but the next video will highlight the nose opening issue I really screwed up. Thanks for the comment,
Surprised you didn't use a compass to trace the cowl line on the hood.
This is just quick and dirty. When I do final paint I will clean up all the gaps but for right now just want it driving to start registration process.
Great work. I have same shirt. Give away from Autorama 2020
Great shirt. Mine was a giveaway at Barrett Jackson. 😂