No the roof was not replaced. There are 3 layers to those tops. The top layer is the one that normally cracks. If it is cracked all the way through all 3 layers there is a way to fix it. You would plastic weld the inside and then strip off the top layer and re-coat it.
This is excellent info, thank you. I have two questions. I used raptor liner that I sprayed on the top when I pulled off the old ABS top. I am assuming that it will still adhere to raptor liner. Secondly, I put a new AC gasket in because I was getting leaking through the roof. I have a sag in my roof and the previous owner bolted some sort of bike rack contraption all the way through the roof and I think that leaked. It hasn’t leaked yet this year but sometimes it does. Any tips or tricks on how to get the roof to stop leaking? I add some thick, rectangular Diamond plate plates between the bolts and the roof to help keep the bolts from pulling all the way through the roof but the roof still sags. I don’t know exactly what to do to fix that. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Hello, Q) I am assuming that it will still adhere to raptor liner. R) I do not know for sure but most of these are petroleum based. It matter how it was designed. Q) AC gasket R) The sag is usually caused because when putting in an AC unit it requires a brace be installed to support it. If that brace is not put in it will sag. They have even been known to collapse. No Coleman came with AC it was a Dealer add-on or added on later somehow by the camper owner. To fix the sag you will need to install a roof brace. You can find them here colemanpopupparts.com/products/a-c-roof-brace-kit-1?_pos=1&_psq=brace&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Once the sag is fixed the leaking should stop. I had to add the steel plate to the latches that hold the roof down during transport or storage. Removing the ABS coating weakens the rigidity of the roof. But it has to be done. Just be aware of the issue.
It would depend on what you are trying to do. The way I mounted mine has been almost issue free, and I did not have to drill holes that had to be sealed. That is a lot of holes. I also had to remove the entire exterior plastic coat from the roof. If you were to tighten it too tight you may have issues, but backing it with something to provide a compression clamp effect help. If I were to use mine in places where it would get bounced around a lot, for instance light of road, I would use the metal and back it with a strip of metal on the back side for strength. But I only use mine on level roads and after 3 years I have had only one issue where the awning slipped out after last winter. So I anchored it with screws similar to what are on each end 1 foot apart and that solved that issue.
Hello Jacob. I got it from Coleman Popup parts. Derek (owner) is great to deal with. Here is the link colemanpopupparts.com/products/awning-rail?_pos=5&_sid=8a421f0dd&_ss=r
It has actually been up for 3 years. I was busy and time got away from me so I was real late putting that up. So 3 years and many trips later and no issues.
@@discdog1 I appreciate your replying. I'll give it a go and hope it holds. Do you have any racks on the roof of your camper? I'm considering solar and looking for mounting points
Yes a bike rack converted to have flat panels to set solar panels on. That is one of 2 winter projects. I will likely post how that goes.@@greatgoogamooga1
Thank you brother, You you saved the day!!!
Did you just glue the sockets on for the support for the awning to the grizzly grip or screw?
Sockets? It uses a channel that is glued on. No screws.
@@discdog1on the awning arms that connect back to the roof of the camper.
@@capjesse Yes the sockets you are referring to are screwed on. But be careful not to strip them out
did you replace the roof? if so how? ours is cracked and pieces are coming off
No the roof was not replaced. There are 3 layers to those tops. The top layer is the one that normally cracks. If it is cracked all the way through all 3 layers there is a way to fix it. You would plastic weld the inside and then strip off the top layer and re-coat it.
This is excellent info, thank you. I have two questions. I used raptor liner that I sprayed on the top when I pulled off the old ABS top. I am assuming that it will still adhere to raptor liner.
Secondly, I put a new AC gasket in because I was getting leaking through the roof. I have a sag in my roof and the previous owner bolted some sort of bike rack contraption all the way through the roof and I think that leaked. It hasn’t leaked yet this year but sometimes it does. Any tips or tricks on how to get the roof to stop leaking? I add some thick, rectangular Diamond plate plates between the bolts and the roof to help keep the bolts from pulling all the way through the roof but the roof still sags. I don’t know exactly what to do to fix that. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Hello,
Q) I am assuming that it will still adhere to raptor liner.
R) I do not know for sure but most of these are petroleum based. It matter how it was designed.
Q) AC gasket
R) The sag is usually caused because when putting in an AC unit it requires a brace be installed to support it. If that brace is not put in it will sag. They have even been known to collapse. No Coleman came with AC it was a Dealer add-on or added on later somehow by the camper owner. To fix the sag you will need to install a roof brace. You can find them here colemanpopupparts.com/products/a-c-roof-brace-kit-1?_pos=1&_psq=brace&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Once the sag is fixed the leaking should stop.
I had to add the steel plate to the latches that hold the roof down during transport or storage. Removing the ABS coating weakens the rigidity of the roof. But it has to be done. Just be aware of the issue.
Do you know between the metal vs plastic rail, is one better than the other?
It would depend on what you are trying to do. The way I mounted mine has been almost issue free, and I did not have to drill holes that had to be sealed. That is a lot of holes. I also had to remove the entire exterior plastic coat from the roof. If you were to tighten it too tight you may have issues, but backing it with something to provide a compression clamp effect help.
If I were to use mine in places where it would get bounced around a lot, for instance light of road, I would use the metal and back it with a strip of metal on the back side for strength. But I only use mine on level roads and after 3 years I have had only one issue where the awning slipped out after last winter. So I anchored it with screws similar to what are on each end 1 foot apart and that solved that issue.
Where did you purchase your rail from?
Hello Jacob. I got it from Coleman Popup parts. Derek (owner) is great to deal with. Here is the link colemanpopupparts.com/products/awning-rail?_pos=5&_sid=8a421f0dd&_ss=r
Thank you so much
Hows it holding up, 9 months in? Im getting ready to do the same thing and am worried that the weight will tear the grizzly grip off the foam.
It has actually been up for 3 years. I was busy and time got away from me so I was real late putting that up. So 3 years and many trips later and no issues.
@@discdog1 I appreciate your replying. I'll give it a go and hope it holds. Do you have any racks on the roof of your camper? I'm considering solar and looking for mounting points
Yes a bike rack converted to have flat panels to set solar panels on. That is one of 2 winter projects. I will likely post how that goes.@@greatgoogamooga1