1 - This was amazing to watch, the progress combined with all the cool features you added are awesome 2 - The sounds from the nozzle camera and also seeing the tall PLA-CF object with the Z decoupling system were both so satisfying :) 3 - Would you consider making another video telling us about everything you learned along the way? I learned a lot from this video already, but I'm sure you've picked up a lot of valuable knowledge and experience from these builds that I'd love to just hear you talk about in more depth, maybe like a "director's commentary" on this video :P
Thank you. About making a video of what I've learned, it is unfortunately unlikely. I really learned a lot, but it's complicated to keep track of what I've learned. But I can tell you that most things I learned are surrounding a central core, that is Klipper.
That makes sense. A commentary over this video might help with keeping track of things, but understandable if it's still too much in your opinion. If you found Klipper most interesting, maybe you could do a video on your favorite/most useful Klipper functions/implementations? I'm just so curious to learn more about everything you've accomplished after seeing this video!
Ever since july (your 3.1 video) you did not fail to impress me so much. With your videos you have convinced me to get a 3.1, and follow a similar upgrade paths, keep up the good work!
This video made me very proud, thank you David! TPU at 400mm/s wow, printing with TPU was my only concern when dripping the likes of Hemera, you have proven that the longer path is not an issue. Great work!
Thank you for posting this. I'm just starting out on my own upgrade path from a stock 3.0. This is super inspiring, and I'm probably going to watch it a bunch of times.
yessss... this is what i need. i want to try to get one built but at this point what i want, doesn't exist.. this is the closest i've seen to it yet! @4:36, impressive!!
you do create Awesome good Magic videos , and technical help and give wisdom to us , thanks , god bless your work! . i wish you reach fast speed 3D printer inventions ! ;)
Amazing work and lots of dedication. I went Vzbot despite living near RatRig due to the AWD and speeds. Still want to build a Vcore but i'll wait until AWD is available. I'm amazed no1 mentioned the Song on home . Regardless lots of love into that baby. Good job Wang
@@davidwang_3d Favorited, you're a lifesaver, looked up v-core awd and ratrig awd and found nothing relevant. Wish i'd found it 2 weeks ago. Building 2 vzbot 330 one of them is 530x530x1000 , still figuring out how to adapt and implement RatRigs kinematic bed from 3030 to 2040 or similar system on belts but once i've got some spare time and €€ i'll make a Vcore awd. There's no such thing as too many printers.
glue stick the entire area of where the print is going to lie on the bed! there is nothing to lose and it always works. glue stick has recently been one of the things that has totally up my printing game. i was a denier for awhile, but then i used some purple elmers stick and since then i havent had a SINGLE corner of any object lift off the bed a warp, not a single one. i have used glue stick on every single print i dont start a print without it no matter the size and shape of it, its a game changer if you were like me still and a denier, highly recommend
It really depends on material. Gluestick is beneficial for PLA, which usually doesn't stick well enough, and PC, which usually sticks too well. But for PETG, gluestick actually ruins the adhesion and makes parts more likely to come off during the print.
I really don't know what to do with my ratrig. I got to a point it's "consistently reliable". Not mega fast but it's quick enough. I want to upgrade it rather than putting out another £1000 + for a 2nd printer. I don't know if I should do AWD or IDEX.
IDEX will not make it fast. IDEX gives you the option to print two filaments with quick tool changes. AWD will make your printer faster. If you want to save costs, start at using 48V and TMC5160 for your XY steppers, and it you are not happy with the performance, then you want to go AWD.
Does installing a cable chain in the toolhead make the recommended Accel lower? Your cable chain looks very long. But it doesn't fall down. I'd like to buy it, too. Can you give me a link to buy?
I recommend watching this video, which explains everything about squaring the frame and how to get a good bed mesh: ua-cam.com/video/h7ZTq2dDTkM/v-deo.html
@@davidwang_3d I'm looking for a way to do the same thing but with a removable endstop. You put the sensor under the nozzle only when you need to calibrate the z offset
Just came across your video today. WOW! I have a V-Core 3 500, but it doesn't even come close to your speed. I would love to talk to you about the upgrades you have done. I just got my Bambu Lab X1-Carbon so I can spend the time upgrading the RatRig now.
At target speed of 1000mm/s, stock 2020 aluminum gantry gives 15k maximum accel, the CF gantry gives 30k accel, and CF gantry with AWD gives 75k accel.
Love the video, great to see the progress like this. Are you planning on upgrading to Goliath? Also, I can't believe you didn't show us the Charmander in it's full glory :D
I decide to wait a bit on the Goliath, and see how will the battle between the Goliath and the STD6 turn out. Also it's important to wait for a EVA mount to become available.
if you were building from scratch and were planning on doing AWD with the carbon gantry from the beginning, would you think that 600mm3 would be sensible?
Firstly, 600mm³ does not equal to 600mmx600mmx600mm, but I get what you mean. There are reasons why I chose the 500. 1. 500mm is a standard kit and it's easy to order from Rat Rig. 600mm is not a standard size they sell, and I have to self source everything, which would cost me a ton more. 2. The larger the machine, the less stability, the frame has more leverage to wobble. 3. The gantry gets heavier, and the belts get longer, which means more ringing, and less acceleration. 4. The bed also gets significantly larger and heavier, which increases variance on bed mesh, and it takes significantly more energy for it to heat up
Definitely try to grasp the concepts of Klipper, and some build guides on building the machine perfectly, for example, how to square your frame to get a good bed mesh.
Can we use some of your advise on the subject, i checked that this set it sold on 400mm as a max but you've made a 500mm one! I was wondering where and what to look for, and do we need to make some custom parts to have it 6500mm by 650mm?!
Thanks for that suggestion, but ball screws are not something I really need right now, my V-Core 3.1 Oldham couplers are doing a great job at eliminating Z wobble, plus I also need to redesign the entire Z system.
Very very interesting, thank you for sharing. Wish I'll be able do follow your path one day and build the same printer. One question: in the charmander print, did the supports came off easily, even with that large line width?
@stefanwilkens My motors are decoupled, meaning that a extension shaft is used with a coupler to the motor shaft, and both the top and bottom sides of the pulley is supported by bearings, therefore no sideways stress on the motor shaft.
Overall are you happy with this large size? I have been wanting to build one for a good while but am scared of running into issues due to its size. Like the gantry and bed warping, bending, and or sagging. Do you use the large build plate enough to where its worth it? If you could go back, would you still pick the 500mm size? Thanks for your time and help!
I didn't really have an option but to pick the 500mm size. The reality is that most things I print fit in a 300mm, but there is always sometimes I had to print something really long that only fits on the 500 diagonally. Yes, the bed mesh isn't great, it's at about 0.4mm variance, but that's not the bed itself, but the gantry sagging/bowing, which can be dealt with. Personally, I think it's better to have a large machine but print mostly small things on it, than having a small machine and worrying when there is one time when I need to print something large.
Awesome video, may I ask what approach you went with to tighten those belt ? I feel like the belt tightening is what is holding my vCore 500, I got everything in metal (fame, vzhead + extruder). I know for sure that something is vibrating because in 2 years, only one time did I tighten the belt perfectly.All print, material and speed had perfect quality. I never got that print quality again because at the time I was clueless of what was going on. Thank you for your videos.
@@davidwang_3d After reading this I went and corrected my gantry. I am sure I had it parallel but It somehow had 8mm of play now. I made sure to undo all twist in the linear rail Y+X, I could feel it had resistance. Oh boy did that make the difference. Before with input_shaper enabled I had a bad ringing that kept appearing no matter the accel/speed. Now I can make it disappear with lower accel on parameter. Doing all test in silk pla might not help with my perfectionist eye tho....😅
I have done it, I found the cause of all my problem. Oh my god was it stupid. I installed something to keep the cable from dangling and that simple thing was causing all my ringing problem...
The input shaper tells you the maximum acceleration you can use without having ringing, but your motion system is more capable than that. It just means you can get to that accel, but at the cost of ringing.
Great, I find your video very interesting. May I know what Motherboard you use for your Voron, I'm testing a MKS Skipr from the makerbase, but I still have some malfunctions. Thanks.
That was in fact not a Volcomosq, but a Volcodrag, a special Volcano block mounted to a Dragon heatsink/heatbreak. There have been people saying that the Dragon heatbreak cannot stand abrasive materials, but my Rapido holds up fine with Abrasives, even though it is not recommended.
An enclosure is required to print ABS, I do not have an enclosure and I'm not planning to enclose my printer anytime soon. Not to mention the toxicity of it, and the shrinkage and warping. If I really want to go high temp, I use Prusament PC-CF, which most of my toolhead and all the bed arms are printed with it.
Awesome work David! The thing that amazes me, is the fact that the printer is super fast and super silent at the same time! May I ask what drivers and board are you using ?
That was with stock parts and with my limited knowledge on the slicer. Here is a 9 min: ua-cam.com/video/fRpUZCpS5BA/v-deo.html My most recent tests shows potential for a sub 5 min benchy.
rly noice are u satisfied with the ratrig? im also looking for a 500x500 printer and would appreciate some tipps & tricks. do you have maybe discord? =)
1 - This was amazing to watch, the progress combined with all the cool features you added are awesome
2 - The sounds from the nozzle camera and also seeing the tall PLA-CF object with the Z decoupling system were both so satisfying :)
3 - Would you consider making another video telling us about everything you learned along the way? I learned a lot from this video already, but I'm sure you've picked up a lot of valuable knowledge and experience from these builds that I'd love to just hear you talk about in more depth, maybe like a "director's commentary" on this video :P
Thank you. About making a video of what I've learned, it is unfortunately unlikely. I really learned a lot, but it's complicated to keep track of what I've learned. But I can tell you that most things I learned are surrounding a central core, that is Klipper.
That makes sense. A commentary over this video might help with keeping track of things, but understandable if it's still too much in your opinion. If you found Klipper most interesting, maybe you could do a video on your favorite/most useful Klipper functions/implementations? I'm just so curious to learn more about everything you've accomplished after seeing this video!
So cool to see a yearly progress! I watch the whole thing!
Thank you for your support!
Oddly the most satisfying video I've seen in a long time. Total inspiration!
Ever since july (your 3.1 video) you did not fail to impress me so much. With your videos you have convinced me to get a 3.1, and follow a similar upgrade paths, keep up the good work!
by any chance will you make a discord any time soon?
This video made me very proud, thank you David!
TPU at 400mm/s wow, printing with TPU was my only concern when dripping the likes of Hemera, you have proven that the longer path is not an issue.
Great work!
Thank you for posting this. I'm just starting out on my own upgrade path from a stock 3.0. This is super inspiring, and I'm probably going to watch it a bunch of times.
So many things you do, just "because you can".... i love it! xD
Extraordinary video!!!!! The only vid so far that actually show that RatRig at full speed …..
It's hard to believe that speed is coming from a 500mm size. Really cool video. I love the progress.
Thanks so much for this David. Unexpected treat today. Lots of great info.
That's one hell of a machine!
Well done 👌
This video has encouraged me to build my own! 30k acceleration/1000mm/s…………great video.
yessss... this is what i need. i want to try to get one built but at this point what i want, doesn't exist.. this is the closest i've seen to it yet! @4:36, impressive!!
Really quiet machine. I have one RR 500 on finish. few days to start it.
you do create Awesome good Magic videos , and technical help and give wisdom to us , thanks , god bless your work! . i wish you reach fast speed 3D printer inventions ! ;)
Amazing work and lots of dedication. I went Vzbot despite living near RatRig due to the AWD and speeds. Still want to build a Vcore but i'll wait until AWD is available.
I'm amazed no1 mentioned the Song on home .
Regardless lots of love into that baby. Good job Wang
Here is AWD for V-Core
www.printables.com/model/263645-v-core-31-decoupled-awdquad-motor-mod-open-front-c
@@davidwang_3d Favorited, you're a lifesaver, looked up v-core awd and ratrig awd and found nothing relevant. Wish i'd found it 2 weeks ago. Building 2 vzbot 330 one of them is 530x530x1000 , still figuring out how to adapt and implement RatRigs kinematic bed from 3030 to 2040 or similar system on belts but once i've got some spare time and €€ i'll make a Vcore awd. There's no such thing as too many printers.
Amazing... Just amazing!!! Thank God the Sonic Pad for my Ender 3 S1 PRO is about to arrive.
My dream build when i get good enough at 3d printers xD good stuff man keep it up!
That bridging though 😱
link for those auxiliary part cooling fans please?
www.printables.com/model/296322-v-core-3-120x38mm-static-cooling-fan-mount
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/delta-electronics/PFR1212DHE-SP00/3078696
@@davidwang_3d thank you
Absolutely AMAZING! I can’t wait to build my 3.1 500mm !
Fantastic work!
Wow! Cool u got me hooked on the need for speed..😈. Thanks for sharing 👍
You're pushing the boundaries Dave and I love it. Keep going, I'm inspired!!
Der Meister am Werk
glue stick the entire area of where the print is going to lie on the bed! there is nothing to lose and it always works. glue stick has recently been one of the things that has totally up my printing game. i was a denier for awhile, but then i used some purple elmers stick and since then i havent had a SINGLE corner of any object lift off the bed a warp, not a single one. i have used glue stick on every single print i dont start a print without it no matter the size and shape of it, its a game changer if you were like me still and a denier, highly recommend
It really depends on material. Gluestick is beneficial for PLA, which usually doesn't stick well enough, and PC, which usually sticks too well. But for PETG, gluestick actually ruins the adhesion and makes parts more likely to come off during the print.
interesting, ive only printed with abs and asa, i bought a roll of pc-cf gonna try that soon @@davidwang_3d
I really don't know what to do with my ratrig. I got to a point it's "consistently reliable". Not mega fast but it's quick enough. I want to upgrade it rather than putting out another £1000 + for a 2nd printer. I don't know if I should do AWD or IDEX.
IDEX will not make it fast. IDEX gives you the option to print two filaments with quick tool changes. AWD will make your printer faster. If you want to save costs, start at using 48V and TMC5160 for your XY steppers, and it you are not happy with the performance, then you want to go AWD.
Hey, you mind sharing your x/y stepper klipper config? Using the same motors at 48V I get really bad resonances :) Thanks!
Add me on Discord, NecroDavid#6294
Does installing a cable chain in the toolhead make the recommended Accel lower?
Your cable chain looks very long. But it doesn't fall down. I'd like to buy it, too.
Can you give me a link to buy?
I no longer recommend using a cable chain since the EVA 3 upgrade, the 4028 fan will run into the frame side of the cable chain holder.
Very nice - Can't wait to build my VC3.1 500! Any tips for getting the frame square?
I recommend watching this video, which explains everything about squaring the frame and how to get a good bed mesh:
ua-cam.com/video/h7ZTq2dDTkM/v-deo.html
What a genious!
Wait, should I have my bowden that long? Mine is pratically streched out in the farthers point.
Move your printhead to the furthest point and make sure the filament can still run through the tube smoothly
This is so inspirational to my build!
I'm torn on doing a vcore-4 upgrade or not, what are your thoughts?
At the current stage, I will start designing a 6WD V-Core 4, but I won't be buying the kit just yet
Im confused between ratrig vcore 300 or vzbot
Ratrig seems sturdier but also feels heavier, but basic kit costs less than half of vzbot 330 kit
They are all different and it's all dependent on personal preferences
Impressive work study
great job！
Never thought about auto z calibration with the Klipper plugin?
Auto Z offset calibration requires a sensor outside the bed area, however the nozzle cannot move outside of bed area on the V-Core 3.
@@davidwang_3d I'm looking for a way to do the same thing but with a removable endstop. You put the sensor under the nozzle only when you need to calibrate the z offset
Great video!
Can you share the musical gcode ?
www.ultimatesolver.com/en/midi2gcode
@@davidwang_3d tnx a lot !!
on 14:58 what name of the tools sir?
These are corner clamps I got from Amazon.
@@davidwang_3d thank you sir!
What is the clearance needed for the reverse Bowden tube above the print head. What is the minimum radius that the tube needs?
I use a 2mm ID tube to reduce friction
They grow up so fast
Hello David it''s me again can you please tell what dragchain mount you use?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5325170
Just came across your video today. WOW! I have a V-Core 3 500, but it doesn't even come close to your speed. I would love to talk to you about the upgrades you have done. I just got my Bambu Lab X1-Carbon so I can spend the time upgrading the RatRig now.
The video shows all the upgrades I did to my V-Core 3
@@davidwang_3d Where did you source the parts from, like the carbon fiber gantry and the MMU? I'm going to start with the 3.0 to 3.1 upgrade.
When you installed the CF gantry, what were your acceleration capabilities before and after?
At target speed of 1000mm/s, stock 2020 aluminum gantry gives 15k maximum accel, the CF gantry gives 30k accel, and CF gantry with AWD gives 75k accel.
Love the video, great to see the progress like this. Are you planning on upgrading to Goliath? Also, I can't believe you didn't show us the Charmander in it's full glory :D
I decide to wait a bit on the Goliath, and see how will the battle between the Goliath and the STD6 turn out. Also it's important to wait for a EVA mount to become available.
Where can i find a pei scheet of 500mm like this? Tnx
On Rat Rig website or Fabreeko
@@davidwang_3d thank you very much
So awesome. Anyway you can point us to where you got the carbon fiber gantry?
Funssor on Aliexpress
@@davidwang_3d thank you so much
Hi David,
Are you able to share your steppers config please? The printer is really silent compared to mine.
Thanks!
It's pretty much the same exact config to the RatOS stock TMC5160 config, except I set the sense_resistor to 0.033
@@davidwang_3d Thanks,
I had to swap the steppers wiring, now is all good.
if you were building from scratch and were planning on doing AWD with the carbon gantry from the beginning, would you think that 600mm3 would be sensible?
Firstly, 600mm³ does not equal to 600mmx600mmx600mm, but I get what you mean. There are reasons why I chose the 500.
1. 500mm is a standard kit and it's easy to order from Rat Rig. 600mm is not a standard size they sell, and I have to self source everything, which would cost me a ton more.
2. The larger the machine, the less stability, the frame has more leverage to wobble.
3. The gantry gets heavier, and the belts get longer, which means more ringing, and less acceleration.
4. The bed also gets significantly larger and heavier, which increases variance on bed mesh, and it takes significantly more energy for it to heat up
Epic. I want to build this machine so badly. Any advice or tips? I am in the process of adding a nozzle cam to my modded Ender 5 Pro
Definitely try to grasp the concepts of Klipper, and some build guides on building the machine perfectly, for example, how to square your frame to get a good bed mesh.
Planing to build the same thing 650mm x 650mm
Can we use some of your advise on the subject, i checked that this set it sold on 400mm as a max but you've made a 500mm one!
I was wondering where and what to look for, and do we need to make some custom parts to have it 6500mm by 650mm?!
Hey David would you be interested in some sfu 1204 ball screws? I had some custom machined
Thanks for that suggestion, but ball screws are not something I really need right now, my V-Core 3.1 Oldham couplers are doing a great job at eliminating Z wobble, plus I also need to redesign the entire Z system.
@@davidwang_3d do you mind sharing what you have planned for the z axis ?
@@anthonypsantos I'm saying that if I use ball screws I will have to redesign, but I'm not planning on doing that.
How is heated bed flatness at that size?
After fine adjustments on the frame, I get 0.4mm variance, with all 4 corners level. The variance comes from the bowing of the gantry
Very very interesting, thank you for sharing. Wish I'll be able do follow your path one day and build the same printer.
One question: in the charmander print, did the supports came off easily, even with that large line width?
It's a bit more difficult, but I managed to get it off with pliers and the surface did not need any sanding aftwards.
how did u solve the racking after updating 3.1？
I drilled out metal joiner plates instead of printed ones
Very impressed with how silent the printer is, you barely hear movement over the rails. Did you do someting specific to acchieve that?
I use stepper motor dampeners
@@davidwang_3d i'm surprised that the difference is so big. Did you have to elongate the motor shaft?
@stefanwilkens My motors are decoupled, meaning that a extension shaft is used with a coupler to the motor shaft, and both the top and bottom sides of the pulley is supported by bearings, therefore no sideways stress on the motor shaft.
Wow can’t wait to get my 500mm running…laser at the shop has been down for over a month all I need is to cut my electronics panels and finish wiring 😢
Check the video: I didn't use a single piece of panel at all! I used printed brackets to mount electronics.
Overall are you happy with this large size? I have been wanting to build one for a good while but am scared of running into issues due to its size. Like the gantry and bed warping, bending, and or sagging. Do you use the large build plate enough to where its worth it? If you could go back, would you still pick the 500mm size? Thanks for your time and help!
I didn't really have an option but to pick the 500mm size. The reality is that most things I print fit in a 300mm, but there is always sometimes I had to print something really long that only fits on the 500 diagonally. Yes, the bed mesh isn't great, it's at about 0.4mm variance, but that's not the bed itself, but the gantry sagging/bowing, which can be dealt with. Personally, I think it's better to have a large machine but print mostly small things on it, than having a small machine and worrying when there is one time when I need to print something large.
Awesome video, may I ask what approach you went with to tighten those belt ? I feel like the belt tightening is what is holding my vCore 500, I got everything in metal (fame, vzhead + extruder). I know for sure that something is vibrating because in 2 years, only one time did I tighten the belt perfectly.All print, material and speed had perfect quality. I never got that print quality again because at the time I was clueless of what was going on. Thank you for your videos.
I move the gantry to one side, adjust the belt tension of each belt until the gantry is completely parallel to the frame.
@@davidwang_3d After reading this I went and corrected my gantry. I am sure I had it parallel but It somehow had 8mm of play now. I made sure to undo all twist in the linear rail Y+X, I could feel it had resistance. Oh boy did that make the difference. Before with input_shaper enabled I had a bad ringing that kept appearing no matter the accel/speed. Now I can make it disappear with lower accel on parameter. Doing all test in silk pla might not help with my perfectionist eye tho....😅
I talked to fast on that one, after hours of printing it came back. I swear this is a tooth idler patern
I have done it, I found the cause of all my problem. Oh my god was it stupid. I installed something to keep the cable from dangling and that simple thing was causing all my ringing problem...
How in God’s name can you print TPU so fast?
David, how to you tune your filament for flow as you start increasing speeds so drastically?
I uses CNC Kitchen's blob test, or sometimes even trial and error to find out the maximum flow of my hotend/filament.
Now I want one
How were you able to get 15K acceleration with everything stock? Accelerometer only recommends 6300
The input shaper tells you the maximum acceleration you can use without having ringing, but your motion system is more capable than that. It just means you can get to that accel, but at the cost of ringing.
@@davidwang_3d AH makes sense thanks for the answer! Also, what caused you to fry your first 4028 fan?
@Cameron Chartier It was a wrong fan to begin with, it had no PWM pin, so I though I could just PWM it from power pins, that killed it.
Great, I find your video very interesting. May I know what Motherboard you use for your Voron, I'm testing a MKS Skipr from the makerbase, but I still have some malfunctions. Thanks.
Thanks for asking but I don't own a Voron.
how come you switched from the volcomosq to the rapid? I thought the volcomosq was superior?
That was in fact not a Volcomosq, but a Volcodrag, a special Volcano block mounted to a Dragon heatsink/heatbreak. There have been people saying that the Dragon heatbreak cannot stand abrasive materials, but my Rapido holds up fine with Abrasives, even though it is not recommended.
Why petg? Surprised you didn't go with abs
An enclosure is required to print ABS, I do not have an enclosure and I'm not planning to enclose my printer anytime soon. Not to mention the toxicity of it, and the shrinkage and warping. If I really want to go high temp, I use Prusament PC-CF, which most of my toolhead and all the bed arms are printed with it.
0:19
Man could you please share the macro?
Use this tool
www.ultimatesolver.com/en/midi2gcode
@@davidwang_3d Thank you!
Do you run the uhf volcano nozzles for everything? Or would you use a v6 for neat parts?
Using the Rapido hotend and Volcano nozzle doesn't lead to less neat parts. It just faster than V6 with nearly no drawbacks.
@@davidwang_3d I find when I run the uhf I get alot more oozing!
WOW that's incredible.... just one question, did you need any power tools to get the supports off that Charmander?
No power tools. Just my hand and pliers, and the sharp PLA drew some blood on my hand
What did you use for the nozzle cam?
I use an endoscope from Amazon.
@@davidwang_3d What did you use to attach it? My current solution isnt stable enough / the endoscope keeps moving out of place.
What slicer?
SuperSlicer
Do you share your settings? That what I use, just curious how yours compare. I'm just getting started with it
@@davidwang_3d
You print carbon fiber? Do you not need an enclosure?
No, Prusament PC-CF is printable without enclosure
@@davidwang_3d good to know! Thanks. Why did you do the AWD mod? Would you recommend it?
@@dubCanuck1 Yes, I recommended it if you have a 500. But it all depends on personal preferences.
Awesome work David! The thing that amazes me, is the fact that the printer is super fast and super silent at the same time! May I ask what drivers and board are you using ?
Driver is Mellow TMC5160 Pro V1.2, board is BTT Octopus Pro
@@davidwang_3d awesome! Are you running those motors in 48v ?
@@gilmbento Yes, 48V
15mkn benchy on a 500 x 500 build volume….. how
That was with stock parts and with my limited knowledge on the slicer. Here is a 9 min: ua-cam.com/video/fRpUZCpS5BA/v-deo.html
My most recent tests shows potential for a sub 5 min benchy.
Well, I know what I'm doing to my printer for the next 6 months
Noice
are you aka "necrodavid"?
Yes, I am :)
None of those numbers are impressive until you see the print quality of a cube and its corners, be sure you keep that 15K acceleration 😁
freakin rickrolled by a damn 3d printer
hello can u please share the stl files for the vzbot braces from ua-cam.com/video/9Tb3xN1rfdw/v-deo.html
i have found it . thank you
now go 48V
It is already 48V
can I have the G-code for the music at the beginning?
There is an online MIDI to G-code converter tool
rly noice are u satisfied with the ratrig? im also looking for a 500x500 printer and would appreciate some tipps & tricks.
do you have maybe discord? =)
Yes, I love my 500
My Discord is NecroDavid #6294
@@davidwang_3d sent you an invite 😊