So, I got my Core last week and have used it several times, for relatively short rides on Zwift as I'm just getting back into riding and shape (as well as on in years, alas), so I clearly don't have extensive experience with it. But so far I'm really impressed. As everyone's said it's really smooth and realistic feeling (to the extent that any trainer can be) and makes very little noise (although I can hear a low steady hum-like sound around twice a second but I think I've heard it in videos too so it's probably normal and nothing to worry about). But the drivetrain is by far the noisiest thing I hear (but quieter after I thoroughly cleaned and relubed it). I'm trying to gradually push myself harder but it's not easy, yet not longer after each ride I find myself looking forward to and eagerly anticipating my next ride. That I didn't expect. I also didn't expect the Zwift background music to be so monotonous, so I'll have to start riding with headphones (hopefully I won't cause massive Bluetooth overload). Finally, regarding the issue you had with the 130/135mm adapter not screwing in and falling out when you try to connect your bike to the Core, there's a very simple fix for that. Install the quick release skewer first, as would be the case on a bike, into this adapter as well as the drive side adapter, then connect the bike. The skewer keeps the adapters in place, problem solved. Thanks again for all the tips and observations.
You can't get power from each legs from this unit simply because, unlike with power meter pedals, the power is measured at the output flywheel. Basically the unit is measuring how much power it is using to brake you. So by definition, it will be the total power of both legs averaged.
I also was thinking how exactly it would measure one side of only. When author makes such silly mistake it really cast a shadow on everything else in this vlog
Wouldn't it be possible, in theory at least, for the trainer to be able to guess the percentage of the work that each crank was doing at any given point in a complete crank rotation, using the rotational position of the flywheel along with the current speed and cadence and the minor fluctuations in power output that naturally result in each turn of the crank? Although I suppose that even if this were possible it would still not be able to tell which pedal was which, unless the cadence sensor had an additional attitude sensor indicating whether it was right side up or upside down. Are there such things?
Actually, there are Trainers that display left and right power seperately (as mentioned). The question is how do they measure it, and how accurate is it. The only way I can think of is, that they have a sensor measuring the "left-right movememt" of the bike. When you are pushing the left pedal, the bike will slightly roll to the left side and vice versa Doing so, you could theoretically "measure" which pedal is generating the current power. As the tacx neo 2 is quiete flexible, this coud be easily measured in the trainer. However, doing so you can not distinguish, if the power is generated from pushing down left side, or pushing up on the right side.
Honestly, i don't understand what all the fuss is over power balance. I'm guessing most serious riders that care about power have a bilateral power meter on another "itrw" bike.
@@Ni1zz well I quite like this author and have found the content in this vlog and others super helpful. If someone makes 1 error across 10 topics it doesn't invalidate the other 9.
No Way , i bought the V5 2 years ago , ok it’s not the same mode but I don’t think there’s so many differences. 2 years used in the worsts conditions and with brutal power with 10.000 km and it’s always perfect.
Coming from a Tacx Bushido which I used for the last 6,5 years I only can say that the Core is bloody fantastic. Dead silent, no more slipping on gradients above 8%, so much better in SIM mode, power spot on with my Powertap C1, small, pretty and stable as a rock. 7 Years ago these direct drives were just too expensive, now they have the same price tag as the wheel-ons then. The transportation of the Bushido or other wheel-on for that matter is of course much easier. So the Bushido has still a function. BTW Good down to earth review, but the title was a bit to red flaggy for me.
I was have a lot of problem with the core. 1.Low watts, 2. weird noise, 3. little cut on the belt after 1 week of use, so sent it back, and bought the Neo2t. I was rode 600km and a lot of climbing with the neo with it in 1 week, and I'm so happy with that, no issues, silent, and accurate! 😊
Had my core to replace my taxc flux .. pretty pleased with it compared to the flux , loads better without constant noise rubbing the out plastic cover. I always use my stages for the power data n racing it’s more accurate.. can be -10-20watts difference ..which is a lot especially when racing.. plus side… it good in erg mode when doing intervals holds the correct wattage within 3-5 watts brilliantly consistent 🤙🤙
Love my kickr core. But I had to replace the flywheel bearings after 3 years and 9000km. There was corrosion on the flywheel axle where the right bearing is running. Did clean the axle used 1200 sandpaper to remove the surface damage on the axle and used Loctite 641 retaining compound for the right bearing to ‚glue‘ it to the flywheel axle. That bearing replacement was possible with bike shop tools. According to some users the tacx neo T2 needs manufactur specific tool to replace.
great review. I have 5 months of cold grey wet / snow weather ahead of me and will go mental if I don't keep my bike fitness going. looks like I will order one (also a profi racer friend of mine recommended one, but that was one line in a text - your video is really helpful to set some realistic expectations and setup tips)
Thought I share. I been using Kikr generation 14. Got back in 2015. Been using the same cassette since I bought it. Have over 10-15k miles on that one cassette. I change my chains quite often. My cadence is 85-95 RPM on avg. I ride mostly outside, but I have certainly pushed this trainer. I been cycling for 15+ years. My ftp hovers between 320-370sh yearly as I ride year round. My freewheel is good for me. The power is still relatively accurate to my quarq power meter + or - 10 watts. Adjusting to grades from zwift seems okay. I never was a fan of that. I always just switch to standard mode which is same grade all the time. I also have about 1000 miles of experience with GTA cycling mod with my Kikr. The grade simulation in that game can be quite absurd. However it worked for the most part. Most of my time spent on trainer is on standard mode and doing intervals when the weather is crap outside.
@@jomarvista8646 thanks. Yeah I figured it out in the GTBikeVConfig settings. Where you can have the game not control your wahoo. I have it set on standard mode in wahoo app. Also there’s 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% for grade control when pressing F5 you will see it.
How can the smart trainer know how much power you produce with your right and left leg? It can find out the cadence by analysing the pulses in power, but how can it reliably know if it's your right leg or the left one making that pulse? That side remark about the single-sided power meters being cheaper is way off the mark: hub-based power meters don't measure L/R balance either.
Good point. It's an estimated balance looking at some information on Google. That's kind of the same as the actual power because it's measured at the cassette not the pedals or hub. Either way the balance seemed accurate enough, when I deliberately pushed harder with one leg I could clearly see the imbalance. It seems with turbos the accuracy and readings are to be taken with a pinch of salt compared to power pedal / hubs 👍🏽
I’m on my 3rd unit in 4 years, all replaced FOC by wahoo excellent service! The latest one I’ve had has been updated so the legs do snap into position when fully extended
@@stanleyg3694mine lasted 2.5 years then the flywheel bearing started to go. Replaced it for free with a refurb. I should have kept the old one and done the bearing myself because the replacement’s plastic shield rubs the belt wheel. Loosened it a bit and it seems to run clear now but far from ideal.
Great review, I am new to your channel and am absolutely appreciating your content, extremely well done!! I am still on an old wheel-on smart trainer (Saris Magnus). I almost bought a new earlier this indoor season when Wahoo was doing some blowout sales, but held-off on the purchase (spent the $ on bike upgrades instead). I will absolutely get a new trainer for the winter season next year. Right now my debate is between the Kickr Core and the new Zwift trainer. I believe that the Kickr is probably a better until overall, but the Zwift device is definitely interesting. I will be looking for more long-term review on the Zwift device before next Winter and will also follow their updates (firmware, etc.) to see any advancement. Currently I am a Wahoo X user (long-time Sufferfest user), however, I am contemplating a switch to Zwift for next year...we shall see!
Good vid. I've had mine for a week or two and no matter what I do, I can't get the drivetrain to run smooth. This is using a 1.85mm spacer like I would when out on the road with my 9-speed cassette. I've also used the 1.8mm one that came with the trainer but no good. Limit screws and cable tension have both been tweaked. At the point now where I think I'll just have to put up with it 😕
Hi Daniel, a couple of my mates have had the same issue with grinding and the drivechain not running smooth (that is ith 11 speed though). If you are using a 10 speed do make sure you have the spacer placed correctly. I talk about that in the video here - ua-cam.com/video/9R-FDX1w7Xo/v-deo.html Failing that, make sure the turbo is on level ground. When you put the bike into the turbo place pressure on the seat to make sure it's seated correctly. Also look from behind to make sure the bike is straight. The non drive side apartor is fiddly on the kicker core, on other trainers I've used it screws in and is fixed in place. Are you using the same cassette on your bike as the turbo?
@@JourdainColeman Hey man, yeah I watched and listened to what you said about the spacer. Mine isn't wavey like yours - it's just a bog standard spacer. In any case, I'm using the one that was originally on the bike (1.85mm I believe) and I don't have the same issues out on the road. Maybe a tiny bit of noise but not as bad as it is on trainer. Yep, using same 11-34, 9-speed cassette as on the other wheel. Think I'll have another crack at seating it and go from there. One thing I have to do to get it seated is to pull apart the seat stays a little bit to get it to sit in the dropouts. It's not exactly a smooth installation!
I had the same problem. It's an easy fix. The includes Spacer is just a basic washer without indents/room for the rivets, which are found on the back of some cassettes. This causes the cassette to not sit properly one the freehub and makes for a wobbly cassette and noisy drivetrain. You can solve it by using/buying the original shimano Spacer with these indents (thats what I did). Or youe could possibly get away with grinding/drilling away the rivets one the back of the biggest sprocket (there are 3-5 i guess, near the spline). I hope this helps! Dumb idea from wahoo to include such a shitty spacer.
Why would you put your bike on the trainer before you have the quick release axle on it. That way the adapters won't fall out. Thanks for the review I've been thinking of getting a Core or saving for a Neo.
Hey Markus, you are right. I was swapping and changing things for the video so I didn't have it in. I swap between 10/11 speed cassette often so I have to remove it, but I'll put the qr axel in first form now on 👍🏽Also, I have hired a Tacx neo 2T for a month, it's really good. I'll be making a video on the tacx and probably a video comparing the T2 to the kicker core (Highend vs lowend) and if it's worth spending the extra £££ - Cheers for commenting.
Nice thing about rim brake bikes is you can just put the skewer in to hold the adapter in place before trying to drop the rear dropouts on. ;) Washer is just flat now. Space between the bolts on the 2 bars is different so you can only put them the right way round (I know because I put the long one on the back at first and the 2nd bolt couldn’t go through!)
Do you ever feel as if riding this trainer is much harder than outside riding? Like resistance feels greater? I’ve virtually road the same route outside and indoors, all always indoors feels harder.
Looking through reviews at the moment, I've been seeing some info on a new entrant. JetBlack 'victory' seems to be priced super well. Any one seen or had expierence?
I’ve had my core 3 years now but one issue (with the core’s flywheel) after a year of usage caused the trainer to be replaced so contacted Wahoo and they sent me a refurbished core rather than a brand new one. Don’t know if this was due to cheap replacement or customer service - as a few friends had replacements of brand new trainer whereas I get a refurbished one 🤔🤔🤔. But on the positive I’ve had the replacement last longer (2 years more) than my original model which is even better - what am I going to do when it comes to this model breaking 🤞🏻🤞🏻.
the new spacers are completely flat so they must have changed it, got my kikr core a few weeks ago and the spacer is 100% flat and seems to work fine with my 9spd.
Newbie question on single leg power: can’t you do a test ride on a single leg to check each legs power? Also a decent drill for smooth leg revolutions IMO.
I see where you’d get that idea, but doing a single leg power test would provide an inaccurate picture considering the difference in power production. Think about how your body must compensate if you walk on only one leg
Hi, great explanation and this is great timing as were looking at the core or v5. We mtb and want to put a 29er on it.. im pretty sure the wheel size works but we have a 12 sp cassette. Will that work on the wahoo ?
Glad the video was helpful for you! From the Wahoo website it looks like it will be fine (I've not tried it myself though) support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/204281714-Does-the-KICKR-work-with-my-mountain-bike-What-about-my-29er-or-27-5- 12 Speed is the same width as 11 speed so you should be all good there as well.
I imagine the cassette is not aligned to the same way as the shifter cassette on bike. Therefore, bike shifter adjustments are required every time using the Kicker Core. I tried out the Kickr snap which doesn't require shifter adjustments. However, after riding the Kickr snap I realize I get the RPMs up and coast too often. I hear I can make adjustments on the Kicker App, but resistance adjustments occur all the time. Who wants to keep opening the app to make these small adjustments? An exercise bike has a lever centered on the handlebar stem for resistance adjustments. I know you mentioned there is "mainly good" with this bike trainer. However, there was a lot of bad design built in with this specific bike trainer (such as a the axle mount nut for disc and regular brakes), and disadvantages to bike trainers compared to exercise bikes in general. I think I will go with an exercise bike instead. Perhaps someday I will visit Watopia. But not until the technology for bike trainers are better. Thanks for posting this comprehensive review! I appreciate the detail you covered.
Newbie cyclist here. So I have bought a 2nd hand kickr v 5 and took it to the bikeshop to change the cassette to the one from my back wheel being a 10 speed as the one on the unit was 11 speed. I have managed to put the bike on the trainer. So what next. I am not good with technology and my phone is not compatible with the wahoo fitness app so do I need a new phone or can I go straight to zwift as my phone pairs with zwift, or can I go direct to my PC. Very confused as to how to use it?
Running a kicker snap and the unit gets noisy when it's warmed up and makes a click on gradients over 8%due to its lack of cooling, if I want to do alp du zwift I need to run a cooling fan at the flywheel all the time , it's put me off wahoo trainers,
Hello, I have a question. Do I need the additional cadence sensor for the Wahoo KICKR Core Smart Trainer? or does the KICKR Core also measure the cadence with the additional sensor. Request for Info. Thanks! Best Greetings from Austria
Given that this is a wheel-off trainer so neither rim nor disc brakes are relevant to its use, is the purpose of the dual-sided hub adapter to let you use either 130 & 135mm spaced dropouts? My bike's 20 years old and has rim brakes and I've never had disc brakes and haven't really kept up with evolving technology so I'm assuming that 135mm is the standard for rim brake-equipped road bikes? Or is it something else?
Yes, you are correct, this it to allow for the wider axel of disc brake bikes with QR Skewer, often referred to as quick release. The newest standard though is "Thru Axel" which also has separate adaptors, this is the most modern axel type. It's a bit of a minefield but you can pretty much get adaptors for all mounting types and axel widths 👍🏽
@@JourdainColeman Thanks. I just ordered a Core and was curious. I had initially wanted to get a Snap but so many people (including you through your videos) convinced me that the Core was vastly better and easily worth the additional $200 or so that I decided to get it instead. Btw does the Core have an actual power meter inside, or does it or the app you use it with estimate the power output based on the speed, cadence and difficulty?
@@kovie9162 I believe that it's estimated power. But for training and general use, it's accurate. People compare the power output from the kicker to power meter pedals but to be honest, unless you are a pro athlete then "very close" is good enough. Plus if you get used to training with the kicker only and don't have a power meter then there is no discrepancy if that makes sense because there is only one source of data. Also, you made a good choice going with the Kickr core, I had a "dumb" trainer for quite a while and the difference is so large that they aren't really comparable. Enjoy your training!
@@JourdainColeman Well there's also wheel-on smart trainers with electronically variable resistance like the Snap but from everything that I've read ride feel, noise and "stickiness" aren't nearly as good as with direct drive trainers like the Core. I'm coming from an actual dumb trainer so this will be a quantum leap for me. --All the best.
Everyone has imbalance in their pedal stroke. It’s natural and really can’t be changed …..if you do try to change it there’s a good chance you’ll get some sort of knee injury etc.
Considering getting one and i have a question, if im using different cassettes on my bike and trainer(different as in teeth count, but same number of cogs), do i need to calibrate/adjust the derailleur before each ride/swap? My bike has campagnolo cassette(which needs adapter for the kickr), would i be fine if i just buy a second shimano cassette that i would just leave on the trainer at all times?
Good question, I've always used the same cassette that I had on my bike on the turbo trainer. So if I had a 105 11 speed cassette, I'd by another one and put that on the trainer, then it's a like for like sway. If your cassettes are both 11-speed then it should in theory work. If the gearing is massively different then maybe the chain wouldn't be the correct length 🤔
Core is great until it fails and Wahoo can’t fix it. Just buy the full KIKR and you won’t be disappointed. Wish I had a picture of my Core from when I had to throw it in the garbage.
@@JourdainColeman I seen some videos where on some models of the kickr bike where the clamp seat tube is defective and no matter how tight you make it still slides Down
Bad title for this video. It seems to imply that there is something critically bad with the Kickr Core. My son and I have the pricer kicker for three years without any problems. Great equipment, great company.
This guy makes some pretty ridiculous points! 1-which feet go front or back, 🤦♂️ unless you try to mount your bike backwards this will be obvious! 2-the flip-flop disc or rim brake adapter should be screwed in, again🤦♂️, put the darn QR on brainiac! We need go no further than 1:35 of this (😂) review! 👎
So, I got my Core last week and have used it several times, for relatively short rides on Zwift as I'm just getting back into riding and shape (as well as on in years, alas), so I clearly don't have extensive experience with it. But so far I'm really impressed.
As everyone's said it's really smooth and realistic feeling (to the extent that any trainer can be) and makes very little noise (although I can hear a low steady hum-like sound around twice a second but I think I've heard it in videos too so it's probably normal and nothing to worry about). But the drivetrain is by far the noisiest thing I hear (but quieter after I thoroughly cleaned and relubed it).
I'm trying to gradually push myself harder but it's not easy, yet not longer after each ride I find myself looking forward to and eagerly anticipating my next ride. That I didn't expect. I also didn't expect the Zwift background music to be so monotonous, so I'll have to start riding with headphones (hopefully I won't cause massive Bluetooth overload).
Finally, regarding the issue you had with the 130/135mm adapter not screwing in and falling out when you try to connect your bike to the Core, there's a very simple fix for that. Install the quick release skewer first, as would be the case on a bike, into this adapter as well as the drive side adapter, then connect the bike. The skewer keeps the adapters in place, problem solved.
Thanks again for all the tips and observations.
You can't get power from each legs from this unit simply because, unlike with power meter pedals, the power is measured at the output flywheel. Basically the unit is measuring how much power it is using to brake you. So by definition, it will be the total power of both legs averaged.
I also was thinking how exactly it would measure one side of only. When author makes such silly mistake it really cast a shadow on everything else in this vlog
Wouldn't it be possible, in theory at least, for the trainer to be able to guess the percentage of the work that each crank was doing at any given point in a complete crank rotation, using the rotational position of the flywheel along with the current speed and cadence and the minor fluctuations in power output that naturally result in each turn of the crank?
Although I suppose that even if this were possible it would still not be able to tell which pedal was which, unless the cadence sensor had an additional attitude sensor indicating whether it was right side up or upside down. Are there such things?
Actually, there are Trainers that display left and right power seperately (as mentioned). The question is how do they measure it, and how accurate is it. The only way I can think of is, that they have a sensor measuring the "left-right movememt" of the bike. When you are pushing the left pedal, the bike will slightly roll to the left side and vice versa Doing so, you could theoretically "measure" which pedal is generating the current power. As the tacx neo 2 is quiete flexible, this coud be easily measured in the trainer.
However, doing so you can not distinguish, if the power is generated from pushing down left side, or pushing up on the right side.
Honestly, i don't understand what all the fuss is over power balance. I'm guessing most serious riders that care about power have a bilateral power meter on another "itrw" bike.
@@Ni1zz well I quite like this author and have found the content in this vlog and others super helpful. If someone makes 1 error across 10 topics it doesn't invalidate the other 9.
No Way , i bought the V5 2 years ago , ok it’s not the same mode but I don’t think there’s so many differences. 2 years used in the worsts conditions and with brutal power with 10.000 km and it’s always perfect.
Coming from a Tacx Bushido which I used for the last 6,5 years I only can say that the Core is bloody fantastic. Dead silent, no more slipping on gradients above 8%, so much better in SIM mode, power spot on with my Powertap C1, small, pretty and stable as a rock. 7 Years ago these direct drives were just too expensive, now they have the same price tag as the wheel-ons then. The transportation of the Bushido or other wheel-on for that matter is of course much easier. So the Bushido has still a function.
BTW Good down to earth review, but the title was a bit to red flaggy for me.
I am in the same boat. I have a Bushido I purchased back in 2014 and am looking for something to upgrade it for the same reasons as you.
@@roblogie1742 My advice go for a 'used' one deal directly from Wahoo. Once you go direct you never go back;)
I did 150000 kilometers or 97530 miles on Zwift with my kickr 2017. it is still like new.
That's good going!! 👌🏼
In 5 years? Holy shit
I was have a lot of problem with the core. 1.Low watts, 2. weird noise, 3. little cut on the belt after 1 week of use, so sent it back, and bought the Neo2t. I was rode 600km and a lot of climbing with the neo with it in 1 week, and I'm so happy with that, no issues, silent, and accurate! 😊
@Ryan Terence What happened?
Hopefully it holds up over time. @ryan what happened to yours?
@Ryan Terence Yo! After 5000km, and 70.000m climb, no issues, work like new :)
Se escucha mucho?
Had my core to replace my taxc flux .. pretty pleased with it compared to the flux , loads better without constant noise rubbing the out plastic cover. I always use my stages for the power data n racing it’s more accurate.. can be -10-20watts difference ..which is a lot especially when racing.. plus side… it good in erg mode when doing intervals holds the correct wattage within 3-5 watts brilliantly consistent 🤙🤙
Thanks for sharing
@KrishBowditch is the kicker core better compre to the flux 2? Aprt from the noise whats the differences
Nice review. Was thinking of upgrading from my Kickr Snap and found a used Core in my area for around $300 USD. Think I'll go for it.
Love my kickr core. But I had to replace the flywheel bearings after 3 years and 9000km. There was corrosion on the flywheel axle where the right bearing is running. Did clean the axle used 1200 sandpaper to remove the surface damage on the axle and used Loctite 641 retaining compound for the right bearing to ‚glue‘ it to the flywheel axle. That bearing replacement was possible with bike shop tools. According to some users the tacx neo T2 needs manufactur specific tool to replace.
As long as it's an easy fix
I will keep that in mind👍
if you want a super realistic feel, you can always go for a ride--A brilliant line
great review. I have 5 months of cold grey wet / snow weather ahead of me and will go mental if I don't keep my bike fitness going. looks like I will order one (also a profi racer friend of mine recommended one, but that was one line in a text - your video is really helpful to set some realistic expectations and setup tips)
Thought I share. I been using Kikr generation 14. Got back in 2015. Been using the same cassette since I bought it. Have over 10-15k miles on that one cassette. I change my chains quite often. My cadence is 85-95 RPM on avg. I ride mostly outside, but I have certainly pushed this trainer. I been cycling for 15+ years. My ftp hovers between 320-370sh yearly as I ride year round. My freewheel is good for me. The power is still relatively accurate to my quarq power meter
+ or - 10 watts. Adjusting to grades from zwift seems okay. I never was a fan of that. I always just switch to standard mode which is same grade all the time. I also have about 1000 miles of experience with GTA cycling mod with my Kikr. The grade simulation in that game can be quite absurd. However it worked for the most part. Most of my time spent on trainer is on standard mode and doing intervals when the weather is crap outside.
What is a freewheel exactly??
@@rachelburt1518
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freehub
with the gta cycling mod, i know there is a setting to lessen the gradients.
@@jomarvista8646 thanks. Yeah I figured it out in the GTBikeVConfig settings. Where you can have the game not control your wahoo. I have it set on standard mode in wahoo app. Also there’s 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% for grade control when pressing F5 you will see it.
great review with clear rational opinions!
How can the smart trainer know how much power you produce with your right and left leg? It can find out the cadence by analysing the pulses in power, but how can it reliably know if it's your right leg or the left one making that pulse? That side remark about the single-sided power meters being cheaper is way off the mark: hub-based power meters don't measure L/R balance either.
Good point. It's an estimated balance looking at some information on Google. That's kind of the same as the actual power because it's measured at the cassette not the pedals or hub. Either way the balance seemed accurate enough, when I deliberately pushed harder with one leg I could clearly see the imbalance. It seems with turbos the accuracy and readings are to be taken with a pinch of salt compared to power pedal / hubs 👍🏽
Great review, straight to the point, no fluff. Thanks.
I’m on my 3rd unit in 4 years, all replaced FOC by wahoo excellent service! The latest one I’ve had has been updated so the legs do snap into position when fully extended
Glad the customer service has been good 👍🏽
Third unit in four years ! Maybe they should focus on excellent build quality rather than customer service. You just put me off buying one !
@@stanleyg3694 better than garmin/tacx.. they would just suggest to buy a new one… I also do a lot of mileage on my wahoo
@@stanleyg3694mine lasted 2.5 years then the flywheel bearing started to go. Replaced it for free with a refurb. I should have kept the old one and done the bearing myself because the replacement’s plastic shield rubs the belt wheel. Loosened it a bit and it seems to run clear now but far from ideal.
Great review, I am new to your channel and am absolutely appreciating your content, extremely well done!! I am still on an old wheel-on smart trainer (Saris Magnus). I almost bought a new earlier this indoor season when Wahoo was doing some blowout sales, but held-off on the purchase (spent the $ on bike upgrades instead). I will absolutely get a new trainer for the winter season next year. Right now my debate is between the Kickr Core and the new Zwift trainer. I believe that the Kickr is probably a better until overall, but the Zwift device is definitely interesting. I will be looking for more long-term review on the Zwift device before next Winter and will also follow their updates (firmware, etc.) to see any advancement. Currently I am a Wahoo X user (long-time Sufferfest user), however, I am contemplating a switch to Zwift for next year...we shall see!
Good vid. I've had mine for a week or two and no matter what I do, I can't get the drivetrain to run smooth. This is using a 1.85mm spacer like I would when out on the road with my 9-speed cassette. I've also used the 1.8mm one that came with the trainer but no good. Limit screws and cable tension have both been tweaked. At the point now where I think I'll just have to put up with it 😕
Hi Daniel, a couple of my mates have had the same issue with grinding and the drivechain not running smooth (that is ith 11 speed though). If you are using a 10 speed do make sure you have the spacer placed correctly. I talk about that in the video here - ua-cam.com/video/9R-FDX1w7Xo/v-deo.html
Failing that, make sure the turbo is on level ground. When you put the bike into the turbo place pressure on the seat to make sure it's seated correctly. Also look from behind to make sure the bike is straight. The non drive side apartor is fiddly on the kicker core, on other trainers I've used it screws in and is fixed in place.
Are you using the same cassette on your bike as the turbo?
@@JourdainColeman Hey man, yeah I watched and listened to what you said about the spacer. Mine isn't wavey like yours - it's just a bog standard spacer. In any case, I'm using the one that was originally on the bike (1.85mm I believe) and I don't have the same issues out on the road. Maybe a tiny bit of noise but not as bad as it is on trainer.
Yep, using same 11-34, 9-speed cassette as on the other wheel.
Think I'll have another crack at seating it and go from there. One thing I have to do to get it seated is to pull apart the seat stays a little bit to get it to sit in the dropouts. It's not exactly a smooth installation!
I had the same problem. It's an easy fix.
The includes Spacer is just a basic washer without indents/room for the rivets, which are found on the back of some cassettes.
This causes the cassette to not sit properly one the freehub and makes for a wobbly cassette and noisy drivetrain.
You can solve it by using/buying the original shimano Spacer with these indents (thats what I did). Or youe could possibly get away with grinding/drilling away the rivets one the back of the biggest sprocket (there are 3-5 i guess, near the spline).
I hope this helps! Dumb idea from wahoo to include such a shitty spacer.
British accents always add authenticity and credibility.
Great video. Super informative 👌
Glad it was helpful!
Why would you put your bike on the trainer before you have the quick release axle on it. That way the adapters won't fall out. Thanks for the review I've been thinking of getting a Core or saving for a Neo.
Hey Markus, you are right. I was swapping and changing things for the video so I didn't have it in. I swap between 10/11 speed cassette often so I have to remove it, but I'll put the qr axel in first form now on 👍🏽Also, I have hired a Tacx neo 2T for a month, it's really good. I'll be making a video on the tacx and probably a video comparing the T2 to the kicker core (Highend vs lowend) and if it's worth spending the extra £££ - Cheers for commenting.
@@JourdainColeman looking forward to it.
Nice thing about rim brake bikes is you can just put the skewer in to hold the adapter in place before trying to drop the rear dropouts on. ;)
Washer is just flat now.
Space between the bolts on the 2 bars is different so you can only put them the right way round (I know because I put the long one on the back at first and the 2nd bolt couldn’t go through!)
Do you ever feel as if riding this trainer is much harder than outside riding? Like resistance feels greater? I’ve virtually road the same route outside and indoors, all always indoors feels harder.
2 years in, circa 3k and no issues what so ever.
Looking through reviews at the moment, I've been seeing some info on a new entrant. JetBlack 'victory' seems to be priced super well. Any one seen or had expierence?
Excellent review there feller :)
Great video
I’ve had my core 3 years now but one issue (with the core’s flywheel) after a year of usage caused the trainer to be replaced so contacted Wahoo and they sent me a refurbished core rather than a brand new one. Don’t know if this was due to cheap replacement or customer service - as a few friends had replacements of brand new trainer whereas I get a refurbished one 🤔🤔🤔.
But on the positive I’ve had the replacement last longer (2 years more) than my original model which is even better - what am I going to do when it comes to this model breaking 🤞🏻🤞🏻.
the new spacers are completely flat so they must have changed it, got my kikr core a few weeks ago and the spacer is 100% flat and seems to work fine with my 9spd.
Newbie question on single leg power: can’t you do a test ride on a single leg to check each legs power? Also a decent drill for smooth leg revolutions IMO.
I see where you’d get that idea, but doing a single leg power test would provide an inaccurate picture considering the difference in power production. Think about how your body must compensate if you walk on only one leg
Does it need a warm room? Or can i ride in my garage. There may be sub zero.
thanks for this matey!
Excellent content!
Sublime Video! Is it recommended to buy a cheap Roadbike Just to use it for Indoor kickr core Setup?
If you have the money then it's not a bad idea. It does get a bit annoying taking your bike on and off the trainer but not a huge problem. 👍🏼
Hi, great explanation and this is great timing as were looking at the core or v5. We mtb and want to put a 29er on it.. im pretty sure the wheel size works but we have a 12 sp cassette. Will that work on the wahoo ?
Glad the video was helpful for you! From the Wahoo website it looks like it will be fine (I've not tried it myself though) support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/204281714-Does-the-KICKR-work-with-my-mountain-bike-What-about-my-29er-or-27-5-
12 Speed is the same width as 11 speed so you should be all good there as well.
Great review
When you go info a descent of a real track simulation what do you feel? Thanks
Great video thank you!
Great stuff thank you
I imagine the cassette is not aligned to the same way as the shifter cassette on bike. Therefore, bike shifter adjustments are required every time using the Kicker Core. I tried out the Kickr snap which doesn't require shifter adjustments. However, after riding the Kickr snap I realize I get the RPMs up and coast too often. I hear I can make adjustments on the Kicker App, but resistance adjustments occur all the time. Who wants to keep opening the app to make these small adjustments? An exercise bike has a lever centered on the handlebar stem for resistance adjustments. I know you mentioned there is "mainly good" with this bike trainer. However, there was a lot of bad design built in with this specific bike trainer (such as a the axle mount nut for disc and regular brakes), and disadvantages to bike trainers compared to exercise bikes in general. I think I will go with an exercise bike instead. Perhaps someday I will visit Watopia. But not until the technology for bike trainers are better. Thanks for posting this comprehensive review! I appreciate the detail you covered.
Good content altough i have the zwift hub.
Great review - thanks
Glad it was helpful!
So does it only measure power from one leg or something
can the kickr core be used with a mountain bike with a 27.5in wheels and can it be used without using paid subscriptions based apps?
What was the complete cost for the whole system? Thanks for the video!
The kickr core is around £650
The cassette is around £40
So around £700 for the gear.
Zwift is £12 a month
I hope that helps
Newbie cyclist here. So I have bought a 2nd hand kickr v 5 and took it to the bikeshop to change the cassette to the one from my back wheel being a 10 speed as the one on the unit was 11 speed. I have managed to put the bike on the trainer. So what next. I am not good with technology and my phone is not compatible with the wahoo fitness app so do I need a new phone or can I go straight to zwift as my phone pairs with zwift, or can I go direct to my PC. Very confused as to how to use it?
Hello, I would like to know does the kickr core fit the Shimano 12 speed cassette ?
Running a kicker snap and the unit gets noisy when it's warmed up and makes a click on gradients over 8%due to its lack of cooling, if I want to do alp du zwift I need to run a cooling fan at the flywheel all the time , it's put me off wahoo trainers,
Hello,
I have a question. Do I need the additional cadence sensor for the Wahoo KICKR Core Smart Trainer? or does the KICKR Core also measure the cadence with the additional sensor. Request for Info. Thanks!
Best Greetings from Austria
No need external sensor, the Kickr Core also measure the cadence.
good job
Out of the box mine will not do a spin down. Sending it back.
Given that this is a wheel-off trainer so neither rim nor disc brakes are relevant to its use, is the purpose of the dual-sided hub adapter to let you use either 130 & 135mm spaced dropouts? My bike's 20 years old and has rim brakes and I've never had disc brakes and haven't really kept up with evolving technology so I'm assuming that 135mm is the standard for rim brake-equipped road bikes? Or is it something else?
Yes, you are correct, this it to allow for the wider axel of disc brake bikes with QR Skewer, often referred to as quick release. The newest standard though is "Thru Axel" which also has separate adaptors, this is the most modern axel type.
It's a bit of a minefield but you can pretty much get adaptors for all mounting types and axel widths 👍🏽
@@JourdainColeman Thanks. I just ordered a Core and was curious. I had initially wanted to get a Snap but so many people (including you through your videos) convinced me that the Core was vastly better and easily worth the additional $200 or so that I decided to get it instead.
Btw does the Core have an actual power meter inside, or does it or the app you use it with estimate the power output based on the speed, cadence and difficulty?
@@kovie9162 I believe that it's estimated power. But for training and general use, it's accurate. People compare the power output from the kicker to power meter pedals but to be honest, unless you are a pro athlete then "very close" is good enough. Plus if you get used to training with the kicker only and don't have a power meter then there is no discrepancy if that makes sense because there is only one source of data.
Also, you made a good choice going with the Kickr core, I had a "dumb" trainer for quite a while and the difference is so large that they aren't really comparable.
Enjoy your training!
@@JourdainColeman Well there's also wheel-on smart trainers with electronically variable resistance like the Snap but from everything that I've read ride feel, noise and "stickiness" aren't nearly as good as with direct drive trainers like the Core. I'm coming from an actual dumb trainer so this will be a quantum leap for me. --All the best.
thanks man!
Happy to help!
hi Jourdain, what was that device you have that your ant+ plugs into for your Mac? (around 4.40min)
Here is the link - amzn.to/3x05kdb - I am having some issues using it with my Macbook Pro though. It worked fine with my iMac previously though.
Use hairspray or hair get on the metal before putting the caps
For the calibration :
Do you calibrate with the Wahoo App OR with the App of the "soft" (zwift, Rouvy, rgt,...) ?
What is the best ?
As brief research showed, everybody suggests using Wahoo App
Ty do you think its better then the zwift one anyone know????
My Zwift one arrived yesterday so I'll be doing a video review of that and a comparisons in the near future.
@@JourdainColemanCheers
Everyone has imbalance in their pedal stroke. It’s natural and really can’t be changed …..if you do try to change it there’s a good chance you’ll get some sort of knee injury etc.
Considering getting one and i have a question, if im using different cassettes on my bike and trainer(different as in teeth count, but same number of cogs), do i need to calibrate/adjust the derailleur before each ride/swap? My bike has campagnolo cassette(which needs adapter for the kickr), would i be fine if i just buy a second shimano cassette that i would just leave on the trainer at all times?
Good question, I've always used the same cassette that I had on my bike on the turbo trainer. So if I had a 105 11 speed cassette, I'd by another one and put that on the trainer, then it's a like for like sway.
If your cassettes are both 11-speed then it should in theory work. If the gearing is massively different then maybe the chain wouldn't be the correct length 🤔
Cool thanks, i guess i would have to try it out and see. Should probably be fine as you said
0:14 that’s France lol
Are you sure the Neo flywheel is 125kg?
Yeah, It's a virtual flywheel that's the equivalent of 125kg
@@JourdainColeman I thought it had a 25kg simulated flywheel? Perhaps I’m mixing it up with something else
Me gusta mucho xk no es tan aburrido como una bici estatica
Core is great until it fails and Wahoo can’t fix it. Just buy the full KIKR and you won’t be disappointed. Wish I had a picture of my Core from when I had to throw it in the garbage.
It's served me well so far and still going after a few years now. I'm not racing or really hammering it though. we shall see if it lasts 👍🏽
I’d like to just have the kickr bike but that is just too doggone pricey
Yeah, they are crazy money! I may be hiring one in the future so I'll be able to see just how goo or bad it is!
@@JourdainColeman
I seen some videos where on some models of the kickr bike where the clamp seat tube is defective and no matter how tight you make it still slides Down
Bad title for this video. It seems to imply that there is something critically bad with the Kickr Core. My son and I have the pricer kicker for three years without any problems. Great equipment, great company.
get the Kickr V6 and stop the bullshit !!!!
This guy makes some pretty ridiculous points!
1-which feet go front or back, 🤦♂️ unless you try to mount your bike backwards this will be obvious!
2-the flip-flop disc or rim brake adapter should be screwed in, again🤦♂️, put the darn QR on brainiac!
We need go no further than 1:35 of this (😂) review! 👎
Do all apps work with the kickr? Tacx, zwift?
Yep. Standard ant+ or BT connection.
Great review, thank you.
Thanks for watching!