I see the voron as a hobby printer. I have other printers that I can print parts on while I get to play and tinker with my 2.4. Just got my 2.4 LDO kit this past weekend. Can't wait to start it :)
1) you can use sequential printing for print more than one wheel on your prusa. 2) I think there is no point in buying a clone while the original is $650. 3) I print abs in a 60C active heated chamber, just had to replace petg parts for abs parts, add a cooler to the E motor, add a cooler to the Einsy, and put the LCD and the PSU outside. For the active heated chamber I just use a cheap chinese thermostat and a 200W Heater with a cooler
Hello, I am brand new to 3d printing. This honest conversation style format you recorded is refreshing. I found it more realistic and belivable than some content providers, not most by any means. I belive every point made, whether accurate or not. I just subscribed to your channel, and now browsing your other content. Thank You!
When building a Prusa, about 1 of those hours is messing about with the captive nuts. That's the only thing which bothered me with the Prusa build. My Voron 2.4 build is nearly done, taken about 1.5 weeks due to waiting on parts. Can't wait for the MK4S clones to appear, the upgrade cost for official upgrade was too much which is why I decided to do the Voron.
Hey man, I just got done with the Voron build. I wanted to tell you, the example printer.cfg file that you gave in your build setup has the incorrect gear ratio for the v2.4r2. On the extruder gear ration you still have 50:17. For the stealthburner the steps are different, and it should be 50:10. I was having bad results using your printer.cfg file also, that helped fix it when I was calibrating the extruder.
Indeed the Prusa is an excellent workhorse, but for some reason even though I printed their PC Blend with an "improvised" enclosure, none of the PETG parts had any problem, and PC has higher temperature requirements. I don't think the ambient temperature inside it ever went above 50C since there were flaws in my enclosure design, but aside from warping on the models (no failures however, they did remain on the print bed), there were no other issues. Also, how would you describe your experience with your RatRig? I was looking for a bigger printer for my upcoming projects and I was considering their VCore 3.1 400 version. It comes with PETG parts from what I know but I will print everything again in ABS on my Prusa. How long did it take you to assemble it? How good are the prints? I'm mainly interested in printing PETG, PC, and maybe Nylon on it. Also, can it handle long-time prints? On my Prusa, I once had a 4 days continuous print without any problem, and the RatRig should be able to withstand such big objects as well.
Hello sir, you need to try Prusa Mk3S+ Bear clone from Fysetc with Revo 6 hotend. Bear version is few times better to assemble and do maintenance, do not forget LDO motor for Prusa extruder. Have a great day.
My best Drone/TPU printer is the Trinus with the Flexion Extruder. But not fast but you can’t print TPU fast anyway. All my Voron 2.4 do ABS. Except the big one I’m working on. Probably the biggest Voron 2.4 in the World 😂 I don’t have any Prusa.
I've been researching and trying to find the best 3d printer for tpu and started looking at the ratrig but it doesn't sound like its the best fit from what youre saying. The thing is I need a build volume of at least 36 x 26. So I'm not really sure what to look at now. All the ones I've seen that aren't direct drive have terrible finishes on the TPU.
Have you tried using a different slicer, like superslicer? I end up using three different slicers depending on which printer I'm using. They tend to be better tuned for the printer they were designed for.
For a print farm a prusa is much more simple and efficient. Especially since the prints essentially take the whole day. Maybe if you have some extra time and money you could look into if a belt printer can handle farm printing with TPU.
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Mm/sec is not something i worry about. These printers are very fast. The mateial has its limitation for how fast ti can be extruded and manipulated. From stretch in the material Compression in the hotend and exteuder gear. 10mm3 is the flow limit. For me, above 10mm3 flow things start to degrade.
I see the voron as a hobby printer. I have other printers that I can print parts on while I get to play and tinker with my 2.4. Just got my 2.4 LDO kit this past weekend. Can't wait to start it :)
1) you can use sequential printing for print more than one wheel on your prusa. 2) I think there is no point in buying a clone while the original is $650. 3) I print abs in a 60C active heated chamber, just had to replace petg parts for abs parts, add a cooler to the E motor, add a cooler to the Einsy, and put the LCD and the PSU outside. For the active heated chamber I just use a cheap chinese thermostat and a 200W Heater with a cooler
Hello, I am brand new to 3d printing. This honest conversation style format you recorded is refreshing. I found it more realistic and belivable than some content providers, not most by any means. I belive every point made, whether accurate or not. I just subscribed to your channel, and now browsing your other content. Thank You!
When building a Prusa, about 1 of those hours is messing about with the captive nuts. That's the only thing which bothered me with the Prusa build. My Voron 2.4 build is nearly done, taken about 1.5 weeks due to waiting on parts. Can't wait for the MK4S clones to appear, the upgrade cost for official upgrade was too much which is why I decided to do the Voron.
thank you sooo much for this conclusion to building a voron
Hey man, I just got done with the Voron build. I wanted to tell you, the example printer.cfg file that you gave in your build setup has the incorrect gear ratio for the v2.4r2. On the extruder gear ration you still have 50:17. For the stealthburner the steps are different, and it should be 50:10. I was having bad results using your printer.cfg file also, that helped fix it when I was calibrating the extruder.
Indeed the Prusa is an excellent workhorse, but for some reason even though I printed their PC Blend with an "improvised" enclosure, none of the PETG parts had any problem, and PC has higher temperature requirements. I don't think the ambient temperature inside it ever went above 50C since there were flaws in my enclosure design, but aside from warping on the models (no failures however, they did remain on the print bed), there were no other issues.
Also, how would you describe your experience with your RatRig? I was looking for a bigger printer for my upcoming projects and I was considering their VCore 3.1 400 version. It comes with PETG parts from what I know but I will print everything again in ABS on my Prusa. How long did it take you to assemble it? How good are the prints? I'm mainly interested in printing PETG, PC, and maybe Nylon on it. Also, can it handle long-time prints? On my Prusa, I once had a 4 days continuous print without any problem, and the RatRig should be able to withstand such big objects as well.
If the speed of the 2.4 or ratrig is too fast just slow it down. Still seems like you'd be able to print with it. Just slow it a little
Seems way more affordable than buying new printers.
Print by object with many on the bed. slow your voron to prusa speeds and see. Can time your returns to every 30 hours. Less dead time possibly
Hello sir, you need to try Prusa Mk3S+ Bear clone from Fysetc with Revo 6 hotend. Bear version is few times better to assemble and do maintenance, do not forget LDO motor for Prusa extruder. Have a great day.
My best Drone/TPU printer is the Trinus with the Flexion Extruder. But not fast but you can’t print TPU fast anyway. All my Voron 2.4 do ABS. Except the big one I’m working on. Probably the biggest Voron 2.4 in the World 😂 I don’t have any Prusa.
I've been researching and trying to find the best 3d printer for tpu and started looking at the ratrig but it doesn't sound like its the best fit from what youre saying. The thing is I need a build volume of at least 36 x 26. So I'm not really sure what to look at now. All the ones I've seen that aren't direct drive have terrible finishes on the TPU.
Keep up the great content!
I have a Fystec Prusa MK3S+ printing parts behind me for other MK3S+/Bear kits I'm ordering. They're solid kits.
Yeah for $310 you can't beat it in terms of getting up and running plus staying under budget.
Have you tried using a different slicer, like superslicer? I end up using three different slicers depending on which printer I'm using. They tend to be better tuned for the printer they were designed for.
For a print farm a prusa is much more simple and efficient. Especially since the prints essentially take the whole day. Maybe if you have some extra time and money you could look into if a belt printer can handle farm printing with TPU.
Yes my prusa prints tpu great, actually better than both my voron and ratrig.
retraction ?
your audio is gone in video
where do you put all these printers?
I have my prusas in a ventilated laundry room and my vorons in the other room, and also an ender 6 and ratrig in the closet.
Got a link for that Prusa clone
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Mm/sec is not something i worry about. These printers are very fast.
The mateial has its limitation for how fast ti can be extruded and manipulated.
From stretch in the material
Compression in the hotend and exteuder gear.
10mm3 is the flow limit.
For me, above 10mm3 flow things start to degrade.