Відео

What a shitty video! Good for you and your spool! You should rename the video to "Look at my cool setup" That would be honest at least. Please delete your account!!!!

Make sure not to cut all five of the trays, I only meant to do four but my mind was on autopilot and I did all five. It still works okay though, you can just leave the spools on top of the central vent just fine even without any trays.

Hi, Nice Coaster! I wonder how you designed the logo? Greetings from Germany :))

RIP to the PETG gang. Get real guys and use an enclosure for an actual strong material. Sure it's hard and all and PETG is convenient but stop making it sound like it's the same. If you're gonna compromise you compromise. But don't deny it. There's a reason stuff like ABS and PC are used in industrial manufacturing. If you really need something strong you can easily find a way to enclose even the cheapest printer and print ABS at 240C or a bit higher

whats the filament hardness?

So you are removing the PEI layer? It's like sanding a frying pan, what's the point? Apart from getting that junk to scrape and depose all over the place

to the point awesome

I agree with PETG being more flexible, but in this case it's really a design problem. L-brackets are never good if 3D printed :) I'm going with PCTG-CF! Also, the whole idea that you "use a belt and pulleys so it's not a problem", is not correct. The moving motor will act as a spring, and can still be noticed in the nozzle. Especially when it comes down to vibrations, harmonic frequencies, etc. Now I've always used PETG for my machines and it never gave issues where the parts were designed okay. But in places where it would flex a bit, I could definitely notice it being an issue in print quality. The printer makes such fast small movements, and it will only overshoot by the tinest micrometer, but this flex can still be seen in the layer stacking being uneven for example.

I see the voron as a hobby printer. I have other printers that I can print parts on while I get to play and tinker with my 2.4. Just got my 2.4 LDO kit this past weekend. Can't wait to start it :)

What size voron would you recommend 300-350 I have some used deals lined up LDO kit 300 or an oh voron 350 sitting at same price but I cannot decide kinda pushing towards the LDO kit one

Dude! thanks for sharing. Quick note, I'd seen a couple of your videos and thought to myself, i recognize this voice (high on Android), then I just saw your on a recommended video. Ha! Good content mate.

Thankyou so much. It helped me in making a jewelry ring box hinge model for my project

No retraction?

what's faster , boot from eMMC or from NMVe ?

Slicer setting? Retraction, heat, etc

all i want to say is that the 2.4 manual was written by a complete idiot

FUCK nobody says which what goes where not even the guide and they want you to cut belts. the official manual is trash

I can't seem to get this to work. It copies everything over but then never tries to boot from the EMMC again. If I put the SD back in it boots off it right away. I've tried doing it over again a few times and what not and seems to just always be the same story.

Thanks for this!

Any chance you could post the Prusa Slicer settings? Esp extruder rates etc. I have TPU now failing to feed... wraps within gears on MK3S. Using same gcode unaltered, printed fine before... so now going back to basics re extruder motion speed/accel, temps, specs, etc... Only things changed... dried out the tpu, upgraded the fw, recalibrate the nozzle heating. Nozzle is clear. TPU runs through ok at the low speed during filament change etc. Prints first layers ok, but then filament jambs. Needed partial dismantling to clear. Then replaced ptfe tube, which was visibly worn on the bore. Did a cold pullml. Cannot see any other issues or wear, on the filament path. Not printed much since last successful TPU print. Prints PETG etc just fine.

doyou have any idea how to get this to work with tach readings individual for each fan?

Can you send me the stl for those rims please 🙏 i want to try them out

Just a nice little side note, your driver isn't necessarily bad it could be bad wiring also. I had this error 2 days ago when I upgraded my steppers. Apparently my extension cables are either wired differently, or the motors wired differently I eliminated the extension cables and plug the ldos straight to the octopus board n that error went away. So if you've been playing with stepper cables check your cables before assuming your drivers are bad.

For fuck's sake how much rambling do I have to sit through before I get to what's promised in the title?

Works Great! Thank you very much. I have used it on several OrangePi 3 LTS boards. Questions. As I look at a current running: 1) It feels like the main menu has change? True? 2) Is SD Card 1st and eMMC 2nd possible? Like a desktop startup? Thanks!

I have been struggling for months all I get is z min and max cannot error can you help

The video was very well done. Very informative. I try to go to your website to download your printer config, but the site is not working.

I have tried to down load your config file, just found your site. I cannot set up my printer Z end stop. Head driving into the bed Can you help

Hehehe, love the simulated printer movements in the beginning of the video 😅

That’s very very square

can you put mainsail on raspberry pi 5

its a nightmare, I had so many of those :( I had a brand new ruby tip nozzle buried under a gigantic blob of plastic :(

can you share your printing profile

Did this work well?

My Anycubic Vyper can print faster than that and it isn’t optimized at all. There’s no way that was top speed on either of those machines

hi! amazing video, I'm looking forward to buy this printer soon! How long did it take you to assemble it and set it up completely ?

Nice

I print my tpu at double that speed on a MK3s+. Yours isn’t tuned yet

You should put the carbon in an old nylon stocking or panty hose to prevent the dust particles from spreading everywhere. Especially inside the enclosure. Many other designs also include a hepa filter to filter out the particles from filament.

Based on your other video, you're not even close to 200mm/s. You're hitting the 8mm^3/s volumetric speed limit way sooner, slowing you down to maybe around 60mm/s. Btw, you sound exactly like the actor Manuel Garcia-Rulfo (Lincoln Lawyer)! Very nice voice!

wait but cant that ruin some of the parts inside the extruder?

Love seeing your videos. I'm soon to start my build. But one question. That Screwdriver is it you are using?

We all know this apparently you didnt 😂

And where is the linux desktop?

The Voron for 'my' needs is fine. Fixed bed. Have a Delta printer for the tall stuff. Cheers.

Oh man, the torture watching you try to put that hotend sock on.

AWG size for 24V from PSU?

Hi! Thanks for all the instruction videos... Am at this final point, but your webshite is down, so I cant steal your config file. Any way to get it?

we miss your new videos :) Regards

G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relative mode M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp ;M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing M104 S150 M109 S150 M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed to heat up before homing ;G4 P480000 ; wait 8 minutes for bed to distribute heat G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup G28 ; home all axis QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL ;BED_MESH_CALIBRATE PROFILE="default" G1 Z50 F240 G1 X10 Y30 F3000 M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stablize M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stablize G1 Z0.4 F240 G92 E0 G1 Y160 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle G1 C12.3 F5000 G92 E0 G1 Y30 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle G92 E0