I just followed your instructions, but I didn't cut the OEM harness either. The only thing that helped more than anything is hooking up the ACC power. I did take my voltmeter and measured out every connector in the OEM harness. It looks like Ford does it with a data send instead of a +12V up for their OEM systems. I went and got a "Littelfuse Blister Pack Fuse Holder - FHM200BP" from O'Reilly's near me for just a few dollars, then I piggy backed it on the 10A fuse in position #37 since that one was only going high when the ACC was turned on. Everything else was wired through an after market harness that I actually learned how to rewire the harness myself to match my 2008 Escape XLT. Your video was very informative and it is what gave me the ideas to get it all fixed! Next up, Backup Cam! :D
This is so cool. I have Ford Escape 2010 XLT and planning to upgrade my radio by myself as well. Thanks for putting all the links. Its very helpful. Thumb’s up!!!
Did you have any loss of functionality. Wondering about the amp because local stereo stores are trying to sell me on a canbus ridiculously expensive harness. Also did you mount a microphone in this video?
@@Dan-tx1ch I did not experience any loss of functionality. There were wires for a microphone, but I my car did not originally have one, so I didn't do that install. Are looking at doing that?
Did you leave all those wires you cut and didn’t use bare or did you put tape or something over them so they don’t short out if they touch metal in your dash
I wouldn't cut the sub-harness OE connectors off - I'd solder splice the new connectors so that when done, both the OE and new connectors would be present. If for some reason the aftermarket unit fails, you would have the option to put the OE radio back in.
@@elibaier I just got back from UPull & Pay and got the entire "Audiophile" Sound System from an 08 Mercury Mariner Premier. I noticed one thing: that sub harness you removed: Mine had a "leg" that wen down the inner LH side of the center console to a large rectangular connector - it was extremely difficult to remove because many pushpin harness restraints were used. But what is troublesome is why was there this connector there? I'm concerned that there may be an amp buried under the center console which I would need to get. But I doubt if it is an amp because if it was, they would brag about the wattage in the sales brochure. There was an Ask Ford post of a fellow who wanted to add the sub to a stock sound system. They were told they could use the sub assembly but they would have to get the Audiophile Radio. Again no amp mentioned. Still, what did that many pin connector go to? EDIT: The "amp" under the seat is actually the Sirius radio module.
@@elibaier No. Turns out the "amp under the seat" is the SIRIUS module. I think the 3 connecters on the back of the Audio Control Module (radio) are Speakers/power, SIRI and subwoofer. It's been a while since I was all into this. I finally found schematics online in a forum.
@@NoferTrunions where did you find the wiring diagram? I think I have the same setup. I installed my radio and everything works but I lost my instrument lights.
I know I am late to the party, but doing the red and yellow to the same power source will mean that the radio will constantly have power regardless of the state of the car. You will have to remember to manually turn off the radio whenever you exit the vehicle.
OK Old video so you may not remember. But what antenna adapter was used to connect to the goofy ford antenna plug? I've watched about 20 escape radio installs and no one mentions you need the special adapter or what one it is. Great video by the way, minus this one important thing that everybody skips.
Great question! It’s called a CRAB antenna adapter. Mine came with the kit that I bought but this looks like the one. amzn.to/3G0n2Su The kit that I bought that had the adapter is this one: amzn.to/3WuZ8El
Yeah sorry I probably didn’t explain it super well in the video. Basically you need to find a fuse that will turn on when the key turns on. When I first tried it, I had one that was on all the time. Does that help?
@elibaier thank you for the quick responses I have the carplay but to scared to do it by myself I'm worried that I will mess up but car shops are asked for about $200-400 just to install it. So I appreciate ur video specially for someone that doesn't know much abt cars
@@yonnielbridon875 i ran into this same problem, all the fuses seem to either be hot all the time or only hot when ignition is in the ON position not accessory. still trying to find switchable 12 volts. Mine is a limited with the audiophille system not sure if that is the problem or not
Does anyone know what the extra brown 6 pin plug is for that is sitting next to the cigarette lighter? It’s just plugged into the plastic trim piece but doesn’t hook to anything..?
I believe this is for the extra options that came with the car. The higher end trims probably had seat warmers or some other feature controlled by this button.
@@elibaier I figured it out a couple days ago. My car has all the extra options other than the auto park assist for parallel parking. I didn't even know cars this old would have this option but apparently a few of them did. Thanks
Is this what you mean? Scosche FD1436BLKB Compatible with 2008-12 Ford Escape / Mercury Mariner / Mazda Tribute, ISO Double DIN & DIN+Pocket Dash Kit; Black
Didn’t see what you did what you did with that grounding strap. On my 08 ford escape limited, it’s in same location where it’s hanging in your video and bolted on to a support for the head unit. I don’t know what to do with the strap with this aftermarket frame.
I did had it for about two years now love the radio the back up camera quit working about two weeks ago but I think water got into it haven’t had time to look into it
Great video! I just did this and almost no issues. On the top display where it says ford escape and then the clock, temp, compass. after I installed the double din system it just says "ford escape" all the time. Is that a compromise with the after market head unit?
did those 7mm screws that screwed the radio in place come with the radio? i recently installed one and there were no screws to secure the radio in place so i have been dealing with it moving when i’m driving
@@elibaier I was working on this today and couldn't get power coming from that fuse. I have the power from the fuse going back to the power on the radio. Is there something I missed?
Just installed mine yesterday. The only issue we had was that the jumper fuse for power required 2 10amp fuses. Overall, it looks and sounds good. Can't believe how light these new infotainment radios are.
Question for you guys! I’m a total newb and looking to get started on this install soon. Is the jumper fuse necessary? I’ve watched non-escape installs and haven’t seen that step. Just looking to understand before I get going. Thanks in advance!
I think it could be done, as long as you take your time and make sure you are doing it all correct. If you look in the comments there is an adapter that you can buy so you don’t have to cut and splice wires. Please let me know if you have any other questions
Did you have a blue wire with an orange line on it on the factory harness? I'm looking to install an atoto unit with the programmable steering wheel controls
Yes, there were wires for the steering wheel controls coming from the radio! And I believe there were also wires coming from the factory harness, but I don't recall the colors. My Escape didn't have the buttons, so I didn't hook it up
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I just followed your instructions, but I didn't cut the OEM harness either. The only thing that helped more than anything is hooking up the ACC power. I did take my voltmeter and measured out every connector in the OEM harness. It looks like Ford does it with a data send instead of a +12V up for their OEM systems. I went and got a "Littelfuse Blister Pack Fuse Holder - FHM200BP" from O'Reilly's near me for just a few dollars, then I piggy backed it on the 10A fuse in position #37 since that one was only going high when the ACC was turned on. Everything else was wired through an after market harness that I actually learned how to rewire the harness myself to match my 2008 Escape XLT. Your video was very informative and it is what gave me the ideas to get it all fixed! Next up, Backup Cam! :D
Wow, thanks for the insight! Good luck with the camera!
This is so cool. I have Ford Escape 2010 XLT and planning to upgrade my radio by myself as well. Thanks for putting all the links. Its very helpful. Thumb’s up!!!
I'm glad you like it! Let me know if you have any questions along the way! It was an easy way to modernize the car!
Did you have any loss of functionality.
Wondering about the amp because local stereo stores are trying to sell me on a canbus ridiculously expensive harness.
Also did you mount a microphone in this video?
@@Dan-tx1ch I did not experience any loss of functionality. There were wires for a microphone, but I my car did not originally have one, so I didn't do that install. Are looking at doing that?
Did you leave all those wires you cut and didn’t use bare or did you put tape or something over them so they don’t short out if they touch metal in your dash
I never had any issues with shorts and I’m pretty sure that I left them bare.
Great video man really helped this is all you need to do to hook up a after market stereo no need for a modulator
Thanks for the comment! Glad you found it so helpful! Any info missing that you can share with the next person reading these comments?
I wouldn't cut the sub-harness OE connectors off - I'd solder splice the new connectors so that when done, both the OE and new connectors would be present. If for some reason the aftermarket unit fails, you would have the option to put the OE radio back in.
Thanks for the comment, Nofer! I agree with you that there was probably a better way to get this wiring done.
@@elibaier I just got back from UPull & Pay and got the entire "Audiophile" Sound System from an 08 Mercury Mariner Premier. I noticed one thing: that sub harness you removed: Mine had a "leg" that wen down the inner LH side of the center console to a large rectangular connector - it was extremely difficult to remove because many pushpin harness restraints were used.
But what is troublesome is why was there this connector there?
I'm concerned that there may be an amp buried under the center console which I would need to get. But I doubt if it is an amp because if it was, they would brag about the wattage in the sales brochure.
There was an Ask Ford post of a fellow who wanted to add the sub to a stock sound system. They were told they could use the sub assembly but they would have to get the Audiophile Radio. Again no amp mentioned. Still, what did that many pin connector go to?
EDIT: The "amp" under the seat is actually the Sirius radio module.
@@NoferTrunions It may have gone to the buttons for the steering wheel? Some cars had buttons on the steering wheel which could control the radio
@@elibaier No. Turns out the "amp under the seat" is the SIRIUS module. I think the 3 connecters on the back of the Audio Control Module (radio) are Speakers/power, SIRI and subwoofer. It's been a while since I was all into this. I finally found schematics online in a forum.
@@NoferTrunions where did you find the wiring diagram? I think I have the same setup. I installed my radio and everything works but I lost my instrument lights.
Can I connect red and yellow wire to the white and red for the power , or I should red wire run to the fuse .
Thanks
As long as it is a good power source you should be fine. You’ll have to test what that wire is to make sure it powers on when you need it to
I know I am late to the party, but doing the red and yellow to the same power source will mean that the radio will constantly have power regardless of the state of the car. You will have to remember to manually turn off the radio whenever you exit the vehicle.
OK Old video so you may not remember. But what antenna adapter was used to connect to the goofy ford antenna plug? I've watched about 20 escape radio installs and no one mentions you need the special adapter or what one it is. Great video by the way, minus this one important thing that everybody skips.
Great question! It’s called a CRAB antenna adapter. Mine came with the kit that I bought but this looks like the one. amzn.to/3G0n2Su
The kit that I bought that had the adapter is this one: amzn.to/3WuZ8El
I hope that helps!!
Say I’m installing a stand alone camera where do I connect the reverse camera to energize when I’m in reverse.
Watch in the video around the 14-17 minute mark. I explain that the backup light in the rear tail light is a great source to tap into to.
@@elibaier what color did they tap into?
What happens with the screen above, How can I make the time work again???
It should not affect the screen above. That screen should work after this install.
Im just a little confuzed on the fuse wire and how that gets connected
Yeah sorry I probably didn’t explain it super well in the video. Basically you need to find a fuse that will turn on when the key turns on. When I first tried it, I had one that was on all the time. Does that help?
@elibaier thank you for the quick responses I have the carplay but to scared to do it by myself I'm worried that I will mess up but car shops are asked for about $200-400 just to install it. So I appreciate ur video specially for someone that doesn't know much abt cars
Of course! Thanks for the video view and comment!
Which factory wire is the illumination wire
The illumination wire
Hello, what is the number of the fuse that I should connect the red cable to?thanks
I put it in slide 31 - the compass module.
I connected everything and the radio does not turn on, as if it had no power
@@yonnielbridon875 i ran into this same problem, all the fuses seem to either be hot all the time or only hot when ignition is in the ON position not accessory. still trying to find switchable 12 volts. Mine is a limited with the audiophille system not sure if that is the problem or not
I’m sorry you are running into problems. Did you check the rest of the wiring?
drive.google.com/file/u/1/d/11xIW29-iqDOyqb_JiTskNiTP4z_XD6mw/view?usp=sharing
Does anyone know what the extra brown 6 pin plug is for that is sitting next to the cigarette lighter? It’s just plugged into the plastic trim piece but doesn’t hook to anything..?
I believe this is for the extra options that came with the car. The higher end trims probably had seat warmers or some other feature controlled by this button.
@@elibaier I figured it out a couple days ago. My car has all the extra options other than the auto park assist for parallel parking. I didn't even know cars this old would have this option but apparently a few of them did. Thanks
Wow that’s impressive!
Where did you get the other face panel to cover the screen
Is this what you mean?
Scosche FD1436BLKB Compatible with 2008-12 Ford Escape / Mercury Mariner / Mazda Tribute, ISO Double DIN & DIN+Pocket Dash Kit; Black
a.co/d/e4OUTgx
where did you get the new panel from ?
Never mind found it on Amazon
Great. Link should be in the description. Let me nkow if you have any issues!@@dimitrz2000
Is the subwoofer still working? Or this new stereo doesn’t support the original subwoofer?
I don’t think mine had a subwoofer, but I imagine it would
How do you removed the whole wire harness, mine has one left that goes all the way down towards the fuse box I think
I think mine I just had to reach all the way down there an unclip it
@@elibaier thank you
Hey @elibaier im trying rn to reach down there but its too far down and i cant get my hand down there how did u get that?
Lots of skill haha did you get it?
Where did you mount the camera?
Right above the rear license plate
Didn’t see what you did what you did with that grounding strap. On my 08 ford escape limited, it’s in same location where it’s hanging in your video and bolted on to a support for the head unit. I don’t know what to do with the strap with this aftermarket frame.
I just pulled it and didn't reinstall it
What adapter am I supposed to use for that funky antenna plug???
amzn.to/3UiGNZv
What fuse or number did you put the bulb protector on or accessory of the red wire that you show goes to the fuse box?
31 the compass module
drive.google.com/file/u/1/d/11xIW29-iqDOyqb_JiTskNiTP4z_XD6mw/view?usp=sharing
ok what about the Display module on the dash is the climate control display part still fashion?
Yes the climate control still works like the original
Will the Wiring harness work for a 2012 Ford Escape ???
Yes it will
@@elibaier thank you
You’re welcome!
The headphone jack is actually an aux in to plug in a phone or audio input on the factory radio
Great!
Can anyone tell me which one is the ignition wire
The red wire can be jumpered to your fuse box spares
I used 31
Any reason why you didn’t use a harness adapter?
You mean this one? amzn.to/3tMlvZn
At the time, I didn't know there was one. Thanks for sharing!
When you got your radio did it come with the Adapter piece is that hook up to the back of the radio
All the wiring came with the radio, yes
@@elibaier thank you
Did you install it?
I did had it for about two years now love the radio the back up camera quit working about two weeks ago but I think water got into it haven’t had time to look into it
Good luck!
Great video! I just did this and almost no issues. On the top display where it says ford escape and then the clock, temp, compass. after I installed the double din system it just says "ford escape" all the time. Is that a compromise with the after market head unit?
Interesting... I'm not sure. Mine didn't say that. Mine showed the normal info... Hopefully you got it fixed
Just installed mine yesterday. says Ford Escape also. No biggie I guess.
The time/date went wrong on that screen anyways recently due to the hardware not counting high enough, so you’re not missing anything!
Interesting!
Thanks eli, how's the radio work? Is it any good? Also, is it for iPhone only?
I really like the radio! It can work with iphone or android. The screen is super nice to have!
did those 7mm screws that screwed the radio in place come with the radio? i recently installed one and there were no screws to secure the radio in place so i have been dealing with it moving when i’m driving
I believe I used the original screws that came with the radio
Do you have to strip all the wires cant you just buy a plug and play harnnes
Possibly something like this... amzn.to/3UkDbKq
Eli, which slot did you use for the fuse jumper? Looks like slot 31 (10A), compass module?
Yes, that is correct! It took a little trial and error but I got it to work without taking out any other systems.
@@elibaier I was working on this today and couldn't get power coming from that fuse. I have the power from the fuse going back to the power on the radio. Is there something I missed?
Did you ever get this to work? If so, what did you end up doing?
Will I lose the Sirius satellite radio if I replace with a double din?
That's a great question... I don't think it would but I'm not 100% sure.
He's You Will lose they Sirius
Thanks!
Just installed mine yesterday. The only issue we had was that the jumper fuse for power required 2 10amp fuses. Overall, it looks and sounds good. Can't believe how light these new infotainment radios are.
That's awesome to hear! I'm glad it worked out so well!!
Did you read the poor reviews?
So far it’s been great. No complaints. It’s not a high end stereo which I don’t need on this car. Just needed Apple CarPlay
@@juancontreras2010 That's definitely the big selling point for it!
Question for you guys! I’m a total newb and looking to get started on this install soon. Is the jumper fuse necessary? I’ve watched non-escape installs and haven’t seen that step. Just looking to understand before I get going. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the video wanted to do something similar for long
No problem 👍 you’ve got it
Do the steering wheel controls work?
I didn't have buttons on my steering wheel, but if you have buttons they would work!
Do you think this could be done by someone with no experience at all?
I think it could be done, as long as you take your time and make sure you are doing it all correct. If you look in the comments there is an adapter that you can buy so you don’t have to cut and splice wires. Please let me know if you have any other questions
Did you have a blue wire with an orange line on it on the factory harness? I'm looking to install an atoto unit with the programmable steering wheel controls
Yes, there were wires for the steering wheel controls coming from the radio! And I believe there were also wires coming from the factory harness, but I don't recall the colors. My Escape didn't have the buttons, so I didn't hook it up
Que unidad atoto has conseguido con controles para volante? Llevo meses buscando alguna para mi Ford escape 2011 y no encuentro ninguna con can bua
@@elibaier Do you remember what model of atoto it was? My 2011 Ford escape does have buttons and I would like to be able to get that model
@@elibaier Do you remember what the model of the screen is? I would like to get one with steering wheel controls my 2011 needs it
@@vivianavillalobos838 The screen in the video has the wires
About the exact same one you did from your link in the bio
Great!
Never cut the factory harness they sell a plug kit for that.
Interesting...
Why would he cut the wires when the plug kit is $10
I wish I would have seen that before making this video...
Gracias me ayudo mucho!
De nada! Gracias por verlo!
I’m gonna get mine done at bestbuy
$ound$ good
like 👍 he said , disconnect battery
Sure thing
Thanks man
You got it!!
I have escape 2008
That’s great
Why didn't you just buy a harness? Plug and play man you recked the factory harness..
Yes, that would have been a good idea... I wanted practice for wiring ;)
COOL////////////////////////
Haha oh yeah!!