HOW TO: M113 intake manifold assembly “Part2”
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
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HOW TO: M113 intake manifold assembly “Part2”
The assembly of the manifold is pretty simple when everyting is cleaned. The only thing i did is de-greased everything with brake cleaner before putting the sealer on. The internals i left clean. I put the gasket on the housings internally. just a small layer so it will not be to much
When the internals are put in place there are 4 small bolts that keep them in position.
the bottom housing has a flat top surface. The top part is having all around the edge a small channel where the old gasket was located. I have put the channel full of gasket material. Make sure there is also a little above the surface of the channel so it can make a closed surface when mounting together.
After putting the 2 housings together there are all around M6 bolts. I have putting them hand tight . normally M6 is about 10nm. but i dont want to overstretch the magnesium housing .
I also have space enough to look in to the runners to see if there is to much gasket material and i have removed this on some spots
if there are any questions about this subject just ask
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don't put the flaps in there, I have a c 55 amg and there is more air from low revs, people who have Audi v8s also pull out the flaps and disconnect the flap vacuum regulator whenever you can put them back in, I didn't put them back in there. works better.
Is die onderste vacuümlijn niet meer nodig en raakt de software niet in de war zonder egr?
Ik heb de vacuum kamer buiten het manifold geplaatst. En ik rij niet meer met de orginele ecu. Dus ik kan alles.zelf inregelen dus ook dit soort dingen verwijderen zonder gevolgen
What kind of yellow can is black silicone sealant or just black glue for inside intake manifold each line to sealant? What is the name of it? Thank you. The reason I am rebuilding it to clean it up inside the intake manifold as well same what you did awesome job…
It is called innotec gasket maker
@@JMSpeedshopThank you sir!
😊👍
when installing a turbo, you should remove everything from the manifold
Why. Dual routing plenum showing better torque HP result on the dyno. So when removing you will miss power
I thought there were pins inside before mounting the top and bottom together
There are
I’m looking to get my top section powder coated but cant find a replacement brake boost line adapter (black plastic part). You said you removed yours and blanked it off but how do you take the vacuum back to the brake servo?? 🤔 Cheers Barry 😎
I have removed and blanked also the egr connections and used the egr connections on the intake to connect it back to brake booster
@@JMSpeedshop can you tell me how you did this and what parts you used?? Is it simple to delete the egr? Any programming required?? My car is completely stock and I don’t want to change too much without knowing wot I’m doing 🤷🏻♂️
The mechanical part of delete the system is show through my videos for the rebuild of the intake . And the last video when i place the intake back on the car. The electronic part i can not give you any info because im not going to run the oem ecu
How are you going to control the flaps with standalone ecu? Do you think there would be benefits of deleting all the insides in the manifold on turbo aplication. I would think it would give more power without them?
Control of the flaps is just simple. It is a 12v solenoide that needs power and can easy controlled by any ecu.
The longer and shorter routing will benefit different rpm ranges. To remove them will leave easy power on the table
@@JMSpeedshop Okay, this great info, thank you!
the two pieces on the top chamber are actually epoxied in from factory, I used a high temp jb weld to glue them back but the sealant you used should work fine too! They will definitely create rattling or vibration if not sealed in. That last port you blocked off behind where throttle body attaches is for the purge control valve, not sure how it will respond without but I am sure for your application will be fine. Nice work!
Oke. Yes the plates are locked in place. So it is only to keep the quiet 😃. I dont have a purge valves. Im running a standalone ECU so can do everything what i want that is the best i think
@@JMSpeedshop yea only to keep it in place, kind of funny they didn't just make it permanently attached.... yea you will have no issues, I am looking at deleting my evap system right now actually but not on standalone, hoping I'll figure something out.
How did you find this info out? I’m looking to rebuild one too as the new one I got has some type of grey sealant used now from factory (periburg) and it seems to not harden off…I’ve installed it but now the sealant is dripping down the intake into the valves and making my valves stick sometimes!! All this after I did my valve seals and replaced with brand new 700 Dollar intake smh
Just open it . I used just regular seallant. But you can also use O-ring material to close the last seal
Did you forget to added the vacuum tube underneath at The front of intake manifold?
Vaccum connection is blocked and closed of
Will this cause any issues?
Blocking. Of the vacuum . Depends. I use an outside vacuum chamber and a different vacuum connection
A work of art from the master technician.
Thanks
Thank you for sharing this info!!
thanks for the support
Nice done 👍
Thanks 🤓