I made an even bigger mess after I finished recording lol. Shook the black and pearl paints only a tiny bit and they squirted two feet in the air. Not fun, have acetone handy.
interesting video, i was wondering if it would be possible to simply find smaller spray nozzles and that way create a smaller radius spray without having to do this process? what do you think
@@eddiexx Thanks! You mean a spray can with a nozzle that sprays more finely? Yes, they make spray cans that are designed for hobby painting, like Tamiya or Testors. But they're usually small cans yet even more expensive than regular spray paints, but they work great if you don't have access to an airbrush. Even still, the proper method of spray painting is to start off the object and end off the object so you're still wasting a decent amount of the spray paint.
Wow what a game changer this was! Not only am I saving money now, I can remember plenty of cans of paint that had an inner tube clogged, had too throw them away, thanks for showing us this.
@@AsimPaints Well hold the phone, I just checked my garage and have cans of lube that are clogged, and the caps are clean so I know it's in the inner tube inside the can, so now I can do the same thing and not throw them away, I can reuse it in a squirt bottle. Why the F didn't I think of this? Cheers bro, thanks again.
When I am ready to pour the paint out of a rattle can, I like to use a utility knife (razor) to puncture the can. Not only does this prevent the possibility of fire while using a drill bit, but it also prevents the possibility of metal shavings from getting into the paint. After the propellant escapes the can, I then cut the upper portion of the can off either with the same utility knife, or a pair of tin snips, and allow the can to sit for about 15 or 20 minutes to allow any remaining propellant to escape, occasionally stirring with a mixing stick to help. I then will pinch the can to form a pouring point, similar to a measuring cup in your kitchen. Doing this will also allow you to get the marble out so you can add it to the new storage bottle. Doing this also helps to get as much of the paint out of the rattle can as possible.
Thanks a lot! In my country you dont get airbrushes and not to mention paints to airbrush... I was using acrylic paint mixed with water up until now. I am all excited to use the enamel paint from these spray cans!! I drilled the tiny hole and have left the can in the balcony to air it out... Cant wait!!
I live on the edge, too..😂😂 , but i think you're closer to the edge than me. Your definition of slow drilling is different from my definition 😂😅😅😂. I enjoy your video it was entertaining and useful. . Either way, nice one, thanks, dude 👏 ..by the way I heard the gas escaping each time you open the lids by the way you did great man. I think if life is not messy in some way we're not a live after all we learn from our mistakes..right 😅😅 i speak for myself. Thank you I learn a new skill today it helps because i am a visual learner this gives me the boost of confidence i needed to make sure my hands don't get blown away 🧨 it's what i was told by a dude that look like 12 yrs old working at ace hardware 😂😂 It planted questions in my reality ..😮 Olso i kinda really need my hands 😅😅 for various purposes and tasks if you get my meaning....😂 CHEERS TO ALL MAN I hope that last comment doesn't sound sexis.... either way I stand by my statement.
What my buddy uses is nitrocellulose automotive paint - trade name DUCO - most auto trade paint suppliers have it and it can be color matched. It needs to be thinned a bit with normal thinners and is about a quarter of the price of a spray can for 250 milli-liters (dont know what that is in imperial measurements) However I have to say that some of the metallic and other special types are not available in nitrocellulose over the counter so this method of "harvesting" those paints is good to know. What I really found interesting in this video is the bottles and especially the caps you use.
Thanks, I use this type of paint a lot on my various woodworking projects (boomerangs in particular) and every now and again I manage to block the spray nozzle. Your idea will allow me to recover some of the paint with less wastage. By way of a hint, when I use these spray cans I always stand them in WARM water before shaking the crap out of them. This results in smoother paint delivery especially when I use multiple light coats and a bucket of patience. Also suggest using rubber gloves and a nail punch to stop the drill slipping around.
When I was a kid I use to cut these cans open after they were empty and recover the balls, they were great for the sling shot lol. I noticed you didn't mention mixing the contents of the can before emptying it into the bottle, I would think that not all the solids would not come out from the bottoms of the cans just by pouring them out. Personally I would make sure the paint was completely mixed or shaken before drilling the first hole so that I was getting all the solids out of the bottom of the can, buts thats just because it makes sense and my Grandmother always drilled into me "Waste not want not" course I never understood her lol, she would literally scrape the butter off the wrapper with a butter knife, but she lived through the Depression and everything was completely used. I seen another video where the guy just sprayed the can into a cup and then poured it into a bottle. This is a great idea and I agree about the overspray, also you showed us some very good points here, great video and very informative, also had some good laughs.
Thanks for watching! Yeah, I'd recommend giving the can a nice mix after drilling the holes to let the propellant escape. Just don't shake it before drilling the holes as you want as much propellant separated from the paint as possible. Spraying directly in a cup works if you just want a small amount. And yeah, waste not is good advice, you can definitely still reuse the ball bearing in the new bottle, or save it in the event you need to sling shot someone lol.
Wow this is an amazing tip! Brand new to airbrushing so glad I found this before dropping crazy money on 2oz jars. Quick question what needle size and psi are you using once the paint are fully de gassed?
I paint alot of 40k models and make my own scenery bits.. i would always thin down metallic paints.. but this method would work equally well for waterbased acrylic rattlecans especially with primers and it goes sooo much further .
I don't think the magnets I have are strong enough to pull the miniscule shavings that might have gotten in. I've gone through a whole bottle with no issues spraying through my airbrush, but if you want to be extra vigilant use a paint filter when pouring out the can. My sunlu 3d print resin comes with a bunch of disposable filters I could use, and I have a ton of them from all the resin I buy, but I never bothered straining it lol.
You can buy decant spray nozzles it has a straw on it, and you just spray in a jar and let it set, and I don't make a mess at all .I do this quite often I use mason jars let them set with a loose lid for a few days, and I will take a chopstick and stir the paint every once in a while to DE gas and after it look like the gas is gone then I add it to a bottle. Im a full-time model builder, and I go through lots of paint. Good luck
if you hold the can upside down and "spray", it will usually release the pressure without any paint. Then you can safely drill or even use a can opener so you can pour the paint out.
Tap the can with a small nail to degas,. Leaving the nail inside will slow the propellant's release to avoid any paint spray Later tap another hole to vent the can before pouring contents out Easypeasy
Very interesting thanks. How do you clean your airbrush after using paint from a spray can? I am not sure but it seems a solvent acrylic paint so I cant just clean with regular aribrush cleaner.
Decanting is great. I'll add just because it wasn't said in the video, it does significantly reduce the shelf life. Only decant what you plan to use within about a 6 month period. It's best to let the can sit at least overnight so the propellant all separates and let's the paint settle at the bottom. And whatever you do, do NOT shake the can or you'll have yourself a heck of a mess. 😂 I also cut the cans open afterwards and save the balls to reuse.
Does it really reduce the shelf-life by that much, even in a closed dropper bottle? I've had that primer and matte coat in those bottles for probably that long and they look fine lol. And yeah, saving the ball bearing is nice, I'm just lazy and have a baggy of them.
Spraying into a cup with a rag over to inhibit overspray getting out is the method I used when airbrushing the detailing on my guitar body and headstockas well as psraying the base coats with the spray cans then applying the stars and planets paint theme with a method learned from UA-cam videos for that. thats a whole other skill I learned and almost got right. but the finish turned out nice so I'm satisfied with my results. I added many other mods and details in wiring and the rest of this over the top extreme build.. I do have a compressor but hadn't mastered the painting skills at that time and still need more practice.. wood working electronics and paint are but a few skills needed when building an electric guitar. this, My forst was proof of concept as well as a learning experience for fore suck guitar projects in my journey to literally build my guitar collection by hand one design at a time...
That's awesome! I've had a Ibanez Gem Jr. sitting in my closet for years now that I've been wanting to repaint for a long time now. Got a bunch of gold hardware for it, custom beautiful walnut pick guard, and I took out the tree of life inlays and planned to pour a custom color resin in it. Really just a beginner guitarist still, and eventually dropped it, so it's been gathering dust ever since lol. Maybe I'll do a video on it.
Awesome video! I appreciate you taking the time to demonstrate the technique. I've never tried decanting so this is just a thought, when you drill your second hole, maybe make it the size of a straw to use as a spicket to help alleviate some of the mess.
If you cut the can just below the rim you can let the air out with a small cut. Then when the gas stops cut around half of the can and make a spout then pour out the paint and the ball bearings at once. Do not cap the paint for a while to let absorbed gas free then check frequently after capping for a few hours or days. Cold will take days high temperatures will degas quicker. Drilling the can on a curve can be dangerous. Fingers do not like drills and if the small drill breaks it is likely to make a bit more mess in the thumb than a small hole. Don't forget good drills also have sharp edges on the lands (sides)
Great video and great tips!! Thanks for sharing. This newbie i learned a lot in a short time. A question though: How do you keep the paint from drying in the container and can you dilute it when it does start to dry?
@evertkleynhans2617 thanks for watching! For cleaning I would recommend acetone or lacquer thinner. As for them drying in the bottles, I haven't had much issue with this. The paint separates from the thinner and settles at the bottom, so I'm not sure how long it'll last. And yes, you can use lacquer thinner to further thin these paints. I would recommend Mr. Hobby leveling thinner. Just don't use these hardware store thinners, they're too harsh.
@@AsimPaints Thanks for the guidance. I've opened a half used rattle can using your method and it works like a charm. The second breather hole helps prevent glugging and spilling.
Thanks! Honestly not sure how long they'll last. The bottle is pretty sealed so I don't forsee it going bad anytime soon. I've had that primer in the bottle for about 6 months and it still seems to work well. Might need to add some lacquer thinner.
cool I always put the can upside down and slowly let the pressure out And trust me I thought about doing what you did with the drill bits but i was afraid that the paint can would pop or blow up lol thanks bro I got tons of rattle cans in my garage ....
Yeah you can definitely just wait a few days before adding the ball bearings. I was impatient and trying to film a video or else I would have let it de-gas in the actual spray can after drilling the hole before pouring it into the dropper bottle.
Not 100% sure to be honest. I have paints going on strong for over half a year now. These are enamel so they're stubborn drying when you actually use them lol, so I think they're fine for a long time.
Will this harm an airbrush in any way like with my O rings or my nozzle ? Cause I have like IWATA custom microns and that would suck if it damages the inner workings ??
Treat it like a stronger solvent based paint than lacquer, just be careful it doesn't spill out the cup and you should be fine. If your airbrush can handle lacquer paints you should be good! You might want to have a dedicated brush for spray paints though as it is pretty difficult to clean.
Showing all the things to do, (and not) while decanting spray paint is helpful. Should also mention the best stuff to clean said paints as well. These paints dry in your airbrush so darn fast. What do you use to effectively clean the airbrush when using these??
@AsimPaints thank you. I just used the straw decanting method as I only wanted a little bit for a small project and I can still use the can for other stuff. But I will use the hole method to fully decant as much paint as possible with my other color. I had a hell of a time cleaning the airbrush but did it. How do you clean down in the cup where those wire twist brushes are mostly ineffective??
@Jerazmus honestly I haven't found a good method or tool for this. The standard airbrush cleaning kit isn't very good since they aren't metal, acetone will make them fall off. If there was a metal version it would be perfect but I haven't seen wire brushes that small. I'll take as small a wire brush as I can and scrub most of the paint out the cup. I'll backwash with acetone and that tends to get most of it, but I'll let it sit for a bit and spray it through to get it thoroughly through the body. I'll also use cotton swabs. Wish I had a better solution
Dont we want to agitate it after letting out the propellant to get all the solid pigments when we pour out the paint. Great video, lots of useful information.
Hmmm... first, VERY interesting. I had no idea that you can use can spray paint for the airbrush, and man there are some colors I'd love to have for airbrushing, so this is an answered prayer. Is cleaning the airbrush still normal (airbrush cleaner/rubbing alcohol and water)? Should I use paint thinner/acetone on the airbrush? Is there a greater chance for airbrushes to clog using spray can paint? Also, reading the comments, I do like the idea that you can just shake the can, spray in a cup/bottle with a lid, and use little at a time, rather than pouring the whole thing in big bottles, taking days to degas. Do you still need to wait for it to degas before adding to the airbrush? This is gonna allow me to save money and use colors not available for airbrushes, I'm really liking this! Thanks for this video! BTW, I do use Rust-oleum brand spray can.
@jamminwolfie thanks for watching! I would recommend acetone for cleaning, just be careful around the rubber seals. So long as you thin the paint like normal you shouldn't have to worry about clogs, though if you let it dry it's gonna be a pain to clean. And I'm not 100% sure about if you can use it without letting it degass, but I'd say it would probably be better to let it degass before use. Happy painting!
Thank you for this interesting video. I'm wondering, when you drill the hole in the spray can, aren't there any iron filings that fall into the paint ?
Thanks for watching! I haven't had any issues with filings, as before I puncture through I try to brush off all the filings from the bit and can with my finger. Haven't had an issue with any clogging my airbrush, but you can always use a strainer to be extra careful.
A fine idea, I would suggest using better bottles. Those look like PET plastic, HDPE or LDPE would have better solvent resistance and be a better long term storage choice.
I think probably LDPE, therye too transparent to be HDPE. Thats always kind of cloudy in my experience. The transparency was why I thought PET. Perhaps HDPE would be enough to not deform with the solvent then. ..its kind of fine, unless these will sit for extended time, it would be horrendous if the bottles break down and all the paint just leaks out at some point down the line.
@jtn484 the same process should work, but honestly I've never seen spray paints at dollar store so I'm not sure how long they'll last or how well they spray out an airbrush
Great video! I'm definitely going to try this. 1)Since a spray can is typically 12oz(350ml), will one can fill six 2oz(60ml) squeeze bottles? 2)Does it matter if cans are room temperature or hotter/colder when I drill into them? 3)What's the shelf life of the paint after putting in bottles? THANK YOU!
Thanks for watching! 6 2oz bottles might not be enough, as I would also recommend adding thinner to the paints. You don't want to drill into a hot can, pressure builds up as temps increase. And the shelf life is uncertain, I still am using bottles that are over half a year old.
I actually have that sitting with my paints haha. I never tried airbrushing it, I'm sure it would work fine so long as you thin it properly. I got it to use as a protective enamel for the interior of parts where I cant paint. Thin it a bit like a thick wash, and swash it around the inside to coat it (used it on a 3d printed piggy bank's inside).
Can we use the degas cycle on our ultrasonic cleaner if we fill the cleaner with water then insert our paint bottle into this or is this still to dangerous. I would place outside to make it more safer.
From an engineering perspective I understand what you are asking. In brief, yes it would assist. However; In the long run - you would need to be prepared to lose paint, messy cleanup and the expense of electricity etc... IMO the natural "fermintation" and slow gas release is worth the wait.
I found that using a sharp pointed steel scribe is perfect for decanting. Since it's tapered, it starts out with a very small hole and you can slowly let the pressure our. When it's mostly de-pressurized, you cam wallow out the hole, then drain the paint into a container. I've used this method on numerous cans without any mess at all👍
Turn the spray can upside down and spray until the pressure is gone. The paint should remain in the can as its not being sucked up by the tube inside the can. Then after the can is out of pressure just drill a couple of small holws in the bottom of the can. Tip the can towards one of the two holes, the paint should pour out?
Two questions. 1. How long does the paint stay good in the bottles after completely degassing? And 2. Cant you use a refrigerant can with a puncture piece and a hose with a valve? Like the use to fill automotive a/c’s. If for noting else than just to degas each can. Sure could use some help getting subs
I'm not exactly sure how long it stays good for in the bottles. I've heard conflicting results; so long as the lid is sealed, 6 months. I've had some in the bottles for over 6 months and they're still good. And I'm not familiar with doing this with a refrigerant can, but it sounds plausible!
How much paint are you getting out of a 12oz Rustoleum can? 12oz should be almost 360ml, the propellant gas bubbles probably add some to the volume, and the biggest bottles you linked are 240ml, quite a bit less. I always assumed that they packaged spray paint by how much you get since a 12oz can is bigger than a 12oz beer/pop can.
The white paint was the only one completely full, and there was only a small amount left in the can after pouring, so even before letting the gas propellant mixed in the paint degass, I'd estimate it's no more than 300ml.
The one thing I would do that you didn't mention is that I would use a piece of masking tape to label the bottles of decanted paint with brand and color.
Aren’t you leaving a ton of paint on the bottom of the can? I would think you want to puncture the can and let it fully offgas. Then shake the can up real good before pouring it out. Nice idea though. I’ll give it a shot. “Don’t be like me” lol
That metallic has to be thinned, I haven't thinned it yet as I haven't had a chance but running it through 0.45 needle kept clogging, then I had to run and didn't get a chance to working the thinning. My concern is it will *lose it's "metallic" look once thinned.
I had previously only decanted hobby paints like Mr. Color spray paints, so I was assuming off that. But yeah, after using these, it's definitely better to thin them down even more!
As long as the hole isn't too big the paint will be fine while you let it degass. It will separate, and the pigment settles at the bottom and the thinner on top shielding it from the little air.
@@AsimPaints BTW, as I have stomach problems, I sometimes make my beer flat, what I do is get two glasses and pour the bear back and forth a few times, carefully at first but as it "degasses" you pour more quickly, within a minute or two you're done. My method might work with the paint.
Why can't you just spray it into your bottles? But also, it would be so much easier for you to poor if you made a second hole on the opposite side. Like we used to do for canned goods.
@The_Viking_Grimm you could just spray it out, this is just another method to pour out multiple cans quickly. And I did mention to drill a second hole!
I have a couple of them but I don't think decanting is a good idea for them. I suspect the textured bits are way too large to spray through an airbrush.
Not to mention Rustoleum is far better quality paint than any airbrush brand paint you’re gonna buy anyway. As a graffiti artist I’ve painted walls and trains with all different brand paints and nothing outlasts rustoleum.
Turn it upside and spray it out like normal? That works too, though some cans are designed to be sprayed from any angle. This way is easier and quicker, there's really no danger unless you drill a large hole.
😊 really turn the can over press the button let the air out out turn the can over and then drill your stupid hole . And yes I believe you will save a dollar here and there 😁
Rather long winded video, as well turning upside down, when you empty tin into another bottle cut tin open and put a ball bearing into your new container for mixing.
you made us learn from your mistakes, you get a sub.but wouldnt be better to just peel the top off, instead of drilling to remove the paint ? also i guess a vacumm chamber would remove the gas ?
Peel of the top of the spray can? Like the nozzle and spray valve? I'm sure you could do something like that. A vacuum chamber would definitely help speed up the removal of propellant from the paint if you have one! Thanks for watching!
Why don't you just spray the paint into a small glass jar and then let it sit to degass. A whole lot less trouble and you still have a spray can to be used in the normal way should you choose to.
That's great if you just want a small amount, but for doing multiple cans I think this method is easier. Just learn from my mistakes and you won't make a mess lol
Instead of drilling into a pressurized can, which is really fucking stupid, get a can of wd40 with the nozzle and hose. Use that nozzle and hose to transfer the paint.
![009 - Decanting Spray Cans [Not So Quick Quickie]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZPGhFvZOlY8/mqdefault.jpg)
I made an even bigger mess after I finished recording lol. Shook the black and pearl paints only a tiny bit and they squirted two feet in the air. Not fun, have acetone handy.
interesting video, i was wondering if it would be possible to simply find smaller spray nozzles and that way create a smaller radius spray without having to do this process? what do you think
@@eddiexx Thanks! You mean a spray can with a nozzle that sprays more finely? Yes, they make spray cans that are designed for hobby painting, like Tamiya or Testors.
But they're usually small cans yet even more expensive than regular spray paints, but they work great if you don't have access to an airbrush.
Even still, the proper method of spray painting is to start off the object and end off the object so you're still wasting a decent amount of the spray paint.
yeah they are saturated solutions of the propellant gas in paint... thats a mistake you only make once (or twice)
I learned from the Barbatos Rex channel that you can add a bit of Mr. Color Leveling thinner to the paint and make it self leveling. Great video!
Best thinner on the market! Just make sure you ventilate it and have respiration! Thanks so much for watching!
. I use turpentine to thin and clean my airbrush out. Works wonders
Wow what a game changer this was! Not only am I saving money now, I can remember plenty of cans of paint that had an inner tube clogged, had too throw them away, thanks for showing us this.
Yeah, I have quite a few unused cans that are years old I can reuse. Glad you found it helpful, thanks for watching!
@@AsimPaints Well hold the phone, I just checked my garage and have cans of lube that are clogged, and the caps are clean so I know it's in the inner tube inside the can, so now I can do the same thing and not throw them away, I can reuse it in a squirt bottle. Why the F didn't I think of this? Cheers bro, thanks again.
@@thesmokingrooster8791 You're welcome! Happy painting!
When I am ready to pour the paint out of a rattle can, I like to use a utility knife (razor) to puncture the can. Not only does this prevent the possibility of fire while using a drill bit, but it also prevents the possibility of metal shavings from getting into the paint. After the propellant escapes the can, I then cut the upper portion of the can off either with the same utility knife, or a pair of tin snips, and allow the can to sit for about 15 or 20 minutes to allow any remaining propellant to escape, occasionally stirring with a mixing stick to help. I then will pinch the can to form a pouring point, similar to a measuring cup in your kitchen. Doing this will also allow you to get the marble out so you can add it to the new storage bottle. Doing this also helps to get as much of the paint out of the rattle can as possible.
Glad I watched this video to get to your method! Excellent ideas!😁
Thanks a lot! In my country you dont get airbrushes and not to mention paints to airbrush... I was using acrylic paint mixed with water up until now. I am all excited to use the enamel paint from these spray cans!! I drilled the tiny hole and have left the can in the balcony to air it out... Cant wait!!
I live on the edge, too..😂😂 , but i think you're closer to the edge than me. Your definition of slow drilling is different from my definition 😂😅😅😂. I enjoy your video it was entertaining and useful. . Either way, nice one, thanks, dude 👏 ..by the way I heard the gas escaping each time you open the lids by the way you did great man. I think if life is not messy in some way we're not a live after all we learn from our mistakes..right 😅😅 i speak for myself. Thank you I learn a new skill today it helps because i am a visual learner this gives me the boost of confidence i needed to make sure my hands don't get blown away 🧨 it's what i was told by a dude that look like 12 yrs old working at ace hardware 😂😂 It planted questions in my reality ..😮 Olso i kinda really need my hands 😅😅 for various purposes and tasks if you get my meaning....😂 CHEERS TO ALL MAN I hope that last comment doesn't sound sexis.... either way I stand by my statement.
What my buddy uses is nitrocellulose automotive paint - trade name DUCO - most auto trade paint suppliers have it and it can be color matched.
It needs to be thinned a bit with normal thinners and is about a quarter of the price of a spray can for 250 milli-liters (dont know what that is in imperial measurements)
However I have to say that some of the metallic and other special types are not available in nitrocellulose over the counter so this method of "harvesting" those paints is good to know.
What I really found interesting in this video is the bottles and especially the caps you use.
tip: tape a magnet to the bottom of the bottle so that the bearings don't block the dispenser
Thanks, I use this type of paint a lot on my various woodworking projects (boomerangs in particular) and every now and again I manage to block the spray nozzle.
Your idea will allow me to recover some of the paint with less wastage.
By way of a hint, when I use these spray cans I always stand them in WARM water before shaking the crap out of them. This results in smoother paint delivery especially when I use multiple light coats and a bucket of patience.
Also suggest using rubber gloves and a nail punch to stop the drill slipping around.
Yeah, I always warm my spray cans before using them too. Thanks for watching!
When I was a kid I use to cut these cans open after they were empty and recover the balls, they were great for the sling shot lol. I noticed you didn't mention mixing the contents of the can before emptying it into the bottle, I would think that not all the solids would not come out from the bottoms of the cans just by pouring them out. Personally I would make sure the paint was completely mixed or shaken before drilling the first hole so that I was getting all the solids out of the bottom of the can, buts thats just because it makes sense and my Grandmother always drilled into me "Waste not want not" course I never understood her lol, she would literally scrape the butter off the wrapper with a butter knife, but she lived through the Depression and everything was completely used. I seen another video where the guy just sprayed the can into a cup and then poured it into a bottle. This is a great idea and I agree about the overspray, also you showed us some very good points here, great video and very informative, also had some good laughs.
Thanks for watching! Yeah, I'd recommend giving the can a nice mix after drilling the holes to let the propellant escape. Just don't shake it before drilling the holes as you want as much propellant separated from the paint as possible.
Spraying directly in a cup works if you just want a small amount. And yeah, waste not is good advice, you can definitely still reuse the ball bearing in the new bottle, or save it in the event you need to sling shot someone lol.
Wow this is an amazing tip! Brand new to airbrushing so glad I found this before dropping crazy money on 2oz jars. Quick question what needle size and psi are you using once the paint are fully de gassed?
@@MrBowlingjt300 thanks for watching! I'd recommend no lower than .5mm, Psi around 20
@ thank you so much for the quick reply!
Nice tip. Also works if your paint can has stopped working with paint left inside.
Dude ur awesome. I just did this with an awesome rustolium mettalic blue and it's the best paint job I have ever done. This is a game changer!
Thanks! Happy painting!
I paint alot of 40k models and make my own scenery bits.. i would always thin down metallic paints.. but this method would work equally well for waterbased acrylic rattlecans especially with primers and it goes sooo much further .
Love the ideal but wonder if metal shaving would be an issue, could you test with magnets and let us know
I don't think the magnets I have are strong enough to pull the miniscule shavings that might have gotten in. I've gone through a whole bottle with no issues spraying through my airbrush, but if you want to be extra vigilant use a paint filter when pouring out the can.
My sunlu 3d print resin comes with a bunch of disposable filters I could use, and I have a ton of them from all the resin I buy, but I never bothered straining it lol.
You can buy decant spray nozzles it has a straw on it, and you just spray in a jar and let it set, and I don't make a mess at all .I do this quite often I use mason jars let them set with a loose lid for a few days, and I will take a chopstick and stir the paint every once in a while to DE gas and after it look like the gas is gone then I add it to a bottle. Im a full-time model builder, and I go through lots of paint. Good luck
I've seen people using straws and just spraying it through it into a jar, I'll have to check out these! Thanks for watching!
if you hold the can upside down and "spray", it will usually release the pressure without any paint. Then you can safely drill or even use a can opener so you can pour the paint out.
Definitely doing this great idea
Tap the can with a small nail to degas,. Leaving the nail inside will slow the propellant's release to avoid any paint spray Later tap another hole to vent the can before pouring contents out Easypeasy
Very interesting thanks.
How do you clean your airbrush after using paint from a spray can? I am not sure but it seems a solvent acrylic paint so I cant just clean with regular aribrush cleaner.
@@erospedrazzoli1132 I found acetone to work best
Decanting is great. I'll add just because it wasn't said in the video, it does significantly reduce the shelf life. Only decant what you plan to use within about a 6 month period. It's best to let the can sit at least overnight so the propellant all separates and let's the paint settle at the bottom. And whatever you do, do NOT shake the can or you'll have yourself a heck of a mess. 😂 I also cut the cans open afterwards and save the balls to reuse.
Does it really reduce the shelf-life by that much, even in a closed dropper bottle? I've had that primer and matte coat in those bottles for probably that long and they look fine lol.
And yeah, saving the ball bearing is nice, I'm just lazy and have a baggy of them.
I thought i was the only wack job doing this LoL 😂😂😂😂😂 it absolutely works and will save you tons of Cash🎉 just do it outside 😜
Spraying into a cup with a rag over to inhibit overspray getting out is the method I used when airbrushing the detailing on my guitar body and headstockas well as psraying the base coats with the spray cans then applying the stars and planets paint theme with a method learned from UA-cam videos for that. thats a whole other skill I learned and almost got right. but the finish turned out nice so I'm satisfied with my results. I added many other mods and details in wiring and the rest of this over the top extreme build.. I do have a compressor but hadn't mastered the painting skills at that time and still need more practice.. wood working electronics and paint are but a few skills needed when building an electric guitar. this, My forst was proof of concept as well as a learning experience for fore suck guitar projects in my journey to literally build my guitar collection by hand one design at a time...
That's awesome! I've had a Ibanez Gem Jr. sitting in my closet for years now that I've been wanting to repaint for a long time now. Got a bunch of gold hardware for it, custom beautiful walnut pick guard, and I took out the tree of life inlays and planned to pour a custom color resin in it.
Really just a beginner guitarist still, and eventually dropped it, so it's been gathering dust ever since lol. Maybe I'll do a video on it.
Awesome video! I appreciate you taking the time to demonstrate the technique. I've never tried decanting so this is just a thought, when you drill your second hole, maybe make it the size of a straw to use as a spicket to help alleviate some of the mess.
Thanks for watching! And yeah, good tips, I could have done a few things differently to optimize the process and reduce the mess!
I like to use an automatic center punch for this, got to hit it a few times but it'll go through.
If you cut the can just below the rim you can let the air out with a small cut. Then when the gas stops cut around half of the can and make a spout then pour out the paint and the ball bearings at once. Do not cap the paint for a while to let absorbed gas free then check frequently after capping for a few hours or days. Cold will take days high temperatures will degas quicker.
Drilling the can on a curve can be dangerous. Fingers do not like drills and if the small drill breaks it is likely to make a bit more mess in the thumb than a small hole. Don't forget good drills also have sharp edges on the lands (sides)
Great video and great tips!! Thanks for sharing. This newbie i learned a lot in a short time. A question though: How do you keep the paint from drying in the container and can you dilute it when it does start to dry?
@evertkleynhans2617 thanks for watching! For cleaning I would recommend acetone or lacquer thinner.
As for them drying in the bottles, I haven't had much issue with this. The paint separates from the thinner and settles at the bottom, so I'm not sure how long it'll last. And yes, you can use lacquer thinner to further thin these paints. I would recommend Mr. Hobby leveling thinner. Just don't use these hardware store thinners, they're too harsh.
@@AsimPaints Thanks for the guidance. I've opened a half used rattle can using your method and it works like a charm. The second breather hole helps prevent glugging and spilling.
Good idea. How long will they last in the bottle cheers Graham
Thanks! Honestly not sure how long they'll last. The bottle is pretty sealed so I don't forsee it going bad anytime soon. I've had that primer in the bottle for about 6 months and it still seems to work well. Might need to add some lacquer thinner.
@@AsimPaints thx mate.
Nice tutorial 🙂. I'll have to give it a try.
cool I always put the can upside down and slowly let the pressure out And trust me I thought about doing what you did with the drill bits but i was afraid that the paint can would pop or blow up lol thanks bro I got tons of rattle cans in my garage ....
Definitely safer to let the propellant out but as you can see, not a big deal drilling into new cans so long as the hole is small!
GREAT IDEA! Will this work with paint that no longer sprays? Thanks
@@armandomarrero9097 like a spray can with a broken nozzle but still has paint? Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
What size are those bottles your pouring the paints into? Perfect size
240ml, linked in the description!
Any reason to mot just wait until its done de-gassing before putting in the ball bearings? Seems like ut would avoid all that possible mess
Yeah you can definitely just wait a few days before adding the ball bearings. I was impatient and trying to film a video or else I would have let it de-gas in the actual spray can after drilling the hole before pouring it into the dropper bottle.
How long do the paints last in the bottles before the paints gets unusable?
Not 100% sure to be honest. I have paints going on strong for over half a year now. These are enamel so they're stubborn drying when you actually use them lol, so I think they're fine for a long time.
Will this harm an airbrush in any way like with my O rings or my nozzle ? Cause I have like IWATA custom microns and that would suck if it damages the inner workings ??
Treat it like a stronger solvent based paint than lacquer, just be careful it doesn't spill out the cup and you should be fine.
If your airbrush can handle lacquer paints you should be good! You might want to have a dedicated brush for spray paints though as it is pretty difficult to clean.
Turn cans upside down and push the spray nozzle to release the pressure. Propelant will be out - paint stays in the can.
Showing all the things to do, (and not) while decanting spray paint is helpful. Should also mention the best stuff to clean said paints as well. These paints dry in your airbrush so darn fast. What do you use to effectively clean the airbrush when using these??
@@Jerazmus thanks! I use acetone to clean my airbrush. You want to do it as soon as you're done spraying.
@AsimPaints thank you. I just used the straw decanting method as I only wanted a little bit for a small project and I can still use the can for other stuff. But I will use the hole method to fully decant as much paint as possible with my other color. I had a hell of a time cleaning the airbrush but did it. How do you clean down in the cup where those wire twist brushes are mostly ineffective??
@Jerazmus honestly I haven't found a good method or tool for this. The standard airbrush cleaning kit isn't very good since they aren't metal, acetone will make them fall off. If there was a metal version it would be perfect but I haven't seen wire brushes that small.
I'll take as small a wire brush as I can and scrub most of the paint out the cup. I'll backwash with acetone and that tends to get most of it, but I'll let it sit for a bit and spray it through to get it thoroughly through the body. I'll also use cotton swabs. Wish I had a better solution
Great video! Subbed.
Thanks!
Dont we want to agitate it after letting out the propellant to get all the solid pigments when we pour out the paint. Great video, lots of useful information.
Definitely true, I should have done this in the video. Just don't agitate it before letting the propellant out!
Hmmm... first, VERY interesting. I had no idea that you can use can spray paint for the airbrush, and man there are some colors I'd love to have for airbrushing, so this is an answered prayer. Is cleaning the airbrush still normal (airbrush cleaner/rubbing alcohol and water)? Should I use paint thinner/acetone on the airbrush? Is there a greater chance for airbrushes to clog using spray can paint? Also, reading the comments, I do like the idea that you can just shake the can, spray in a cup/bottle with a lid, and use little at a time, rather than pouring the whole thing in big bottles, taking days to degas. Do you still need to wait for it to degas before adding to the airbrush? This is gonna allow me to save money and use colors not available for airbrushes, I'm really liking this! Thanks for this video! BTW, I do use Rust-oleum brand spray can.
@jamminwolfie thanks for watching! I would recommend acetone for cleaning, just be careful around the rubber seals. So long as you thin the paint like normal you shouldn't have to worry about clogs, though if you let it dry it's gonna be a pain to clean.
And I'm not 100% sure about if you can use it without letting it degass, but I'd say it would probably be better to let it degass before use.
Happy painting!
Thank you for this interesting video. I'm wondering, when you drill the hole in the spray can, aren't there any iron filings that fall into the paint ?
Thanks for watching! I haven't had any issues with filings, as before I puncture through I try to brush off all the filings from the bit and can with my finger. Haven't had an issue with any clogging my airbrush, but you can always use a strainer to be extra careful.
A fine idea, I would suggest using better bottles. Those look like PET plastic, HDPE or LDPE would have better solvent resistance and be a better long term storage choice.
They're HDPE, liked in the description!
I think probably LDPE, therye too transparent to be HDPE. Thats always kind of cloudy in my experience.
The transparency was why I thought PET.
Perhaps HDPE would be enough to not deform with the solvent then.
..its kind of fine, unless these will sit for extended time, it would be horrendous if the bottles break down and all the paint just leaks out at some point down the line.
You can make a hole by pounding in a thumbtack, then slowly pull it out.
That mess you made looks like amazing art 😍😍😍
Lol happy accident
My friend, will you please tell me how you removed the cap off of the Rusto Universal can? Thank you.
I just broke it off. Slide a screwdriver under it and force it off.
@@AsimPaints haha thanks!
What about dollar store spray paints will they work?
@jtn484 the same process should work, but honestly I've never seen spray paints at dollar store so I'm not sure how long they'll last or how well they spray out an airbrush
@@AsimPaints The dollar stores here locally do have them same size as other stores ill try it and see
Well I guess if you buy the store brand spray paints they will be cheaper also how long does this paint last in the bottles?
Not sure how long they last. Been about a year and they seem good still.
Great video! I'm definitely going to try this.
1)Since a spray can is typically 12oz(350ml), will one can fill six 2oz(60ml) squeeze bottles?
2)Does it matter if cans are room temperature or hotter/colder when I drill into them?
3)What's the shelf life of the paint after putting in bottles?
THANK YOU!
Thanks for watching! 6 2oz bottles might not be enough, as I would also recommend adding thinner to the paints. You don't want to drill into a hot can, pressure builds up as temps increase. And the shelf life is uncertain, I still am using bottles that are over half a year old.
has anyone used the rust-oleum protective enamel brush paint in the one pint cans.
I actually have that sitting with my paints haha. I never tried airbrushing it, I'm sure it would work fine so long as you thin it properly.
I got it to use as a protective enamel for the interior of parts where I cant paint. Thin it a bit like a thick wash, and swash it around the inside to coat it (used it on a 3d printed piggy bank's inside).
Can we use the degas cycle on our ultrasonic cleaner if we fill the cleaner with water then insert our paint bottle into this or is this still to dangerous. I would place outside to make it more safer.
Not sure what you're asking exactly. Degas cycle on the ultrasonic cleaner?
From an engineering perspective I understand what you are asking. In brief, yes it would assist. However; In the long run - you would need to be prepared to lose paint, messy cleanup and the expense of electricity etc... IMO the natural "fermintation" and slow gas release is worth the wait.
@@James-Page
Thanks for info, probably would be better and safer and cheaper to just let it set and degas
How to cleaning airbrush after using decanted paint?
Use lacquer thinner or acetone.
I found that using a sharp pointed steel scribe is perfect for decanting. Since it's tapered, it starts out with a very small hole and you can slowly let the pressure our. When it's mostly de-pressurized, you cam wallow out the hole, then drain the paint into a container. I've used this method on numerous cans without any mess at all👍
Turn the spray can upside down and spray until the pressure is gone. The paint should remain in the can as its not being sucked up by the tube inside the can. Then after the can is out of pressure just drill a couple of small holws in the bottom of the can. Tip the can towards one of the two holes, the paint should pour out?
Just keep in mind some spray cans are designed to be sprayed from any angle, so even upside it'll spray paint.
Thanks for watching!
I LIVE ON THE EDGE 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Try using a wd-40 tip to empty paint containers, it has a tip with a long tube.
Two questions. 1. How long does the paint stay good in the bottles after completely degassing? And 2. Cant you use a refrigerant can with a puncture piece and a hose with a valve? Like the use to fill automotive a/c’s. If for noting else than just to degas each can. Sure could use some help getting subs
I'm not exactly sure how long it stays good for in the bottles. I've heard conflicting results; so long as the lid is sealed, 6 months. I've had some in the bottles for over 6 months and they're still good.
And I'm not familiar with doing this with a refrigerant can, but it sounds plausible!
Shake it if you want it to come out really fast and have something big to paint.
@@AsimPaints ua-cam.com/users/shorts2I89fGSi2n0?feature=share
How much paint are you getting out of a 12oz Rustoleum can? 12oz should be almost 360ml, the propellant gas bubbles probably add some to the volume, and the biggest bottles you linked are 240ml, quite a bit less. I always assumed that they packaged spray paint by how much you get since a 12oz can is bigger than a 12oz beer/pop can.
The white paint was the only one completely full, and there was only a small amount left in the can after pouring, so even before letting the gas propellant mixed in the paint degass, I'd estimate it's no more than 300ml.
The one thing I would do that you didn't mention is that I would use a piece of masking tape to label the bottles of decanted paint with brand and color.
Good idea!
Aren’t you leaving a ton of paint on the bottom of the can? I would think you want to puncture the can and let it fully offgas. Then shake the can up real good before pouring it out.
Nice idea though. I’ll give it a shot. “Don’t be like me” lol
@@elutfall yes lol, do that!
That metallic has to be thinned, I haven't thinned it yet as I haven't had a chance but running it through 0.45 needle kept clogging, then I had to run and didn't get a chance to working the thinning. My concern is it will *lose it's "metallic" look once thinned.
I had previously only decanted hobby paints like Mr. Color spray paints, so I was assuming off that.
But yeah, after using these, it's definitely better to thin them down even more!
Yeah you can degas but what about drying paint?
As long as the hole isn't too big the paint will be fine while you let it degass. It will separate, and the pigment settles at the bottom and the thinner on top shielding it from the little air.
@@AsimPaintsOk, I'll have to try it, thanks
@@AsimPaints BTW, as I have stomach problems, I sometimes make my beer flat, what I do is get two glasses and pour the bear back and forth a few times, carefully at first but as it "degasses" you pour more quickly, within a minute or two you're done. My method might work with the paint.
Why can't you just spray it into your bottles? But also, it would be so much easier for you to poor if you made a second hole on the opposite side. Like we used to do for canned goods.
@The_Viking_Grimm you could just spray it out, this is just another method to pour out multiple cans quickly.
And I did mention to drill a second hole!
BBs for BB gun is cheaper
@Sportster2012 never thought of that, nice suggestion
. Do you thin spray paint for airbrushing . if so what ?
@@Sportster2012 Yes, use a good quality lacquer thinner like Mr. Hobby leveling thinner
Big Paint is gonna take you out, bro!
Have you tried decanting any of the Hammered paints?
I have a couple of them but I don't think decanting is a good idea for them. I suspect the textured bits are way too large to spray through an airbrush.
Not to mention Rustoleum is far better quality paint than any airbrush brand paint you’re gonna buy anyway. As a graffiti artist I’ve painted walls and trains with all different brand paints and nothing outlasts rustoleum.
I haven’t had luck using these and not destroying my rubber seals 🤔
if you put masking tape on the place where you want to drill - it will not slide
Good tip!
Why don’t you just turn the can upside down and let the propellant escape that way….its MUCH SAFER!
Turn it upside and spray it out like normal? That works too, though some cans are designed to be sprayed from any angle. This way is easier and quicker, there's really no danger unless you drill a large hole.
A lot of cans can still be sprayed upside down now. Gotta watch what you do that with 😂
😊 really turn the can over press the button let the air out out turn the can over and then drill your stupid hole . And yes I believe you will save a dollar here and there 😁
With all the waste be cheaper just to.buy correct paint
Rather long winded video, as well turning upside down, when you empty tin into another bottle cut tin open and put a ball bearing into your new container for mixing.
you made us learn from your mistakes, you get a sub.but wouldnt be better to just peel the top off, instead of drilling to remove the paint ?
also i guess a vacumm chamber would remove the gas ?
Peel of the top of the spray can? Like the nozzle and spray valve? I'm sure you could do something like that.
A vacuum chamber would definitely help speed up the removal of propellant from the paint if you have one! Thanks for watching!
Why don't you just spray the paint into a small glass jar and then let it sit to degass. A whole lot less trouble and you still have a spray can to be used in the normal way should you choose to.
That's great if you just want a small amount, but for doing multiple cans I think this method is easier. Just learn from my mistakes and you won't make a mess lol
"cant afford a 5 dollar bottle of paint? Decant an 8 dollar can of paint into a bottle!"
Shhh!
I guess it's about availability. Even where I do groceries have spray paint, but I never see airbrush paint in my life
Good video but too long. Glad he didn’t have to drill multiple holes. Good trick for airbrushes.
Instead of drilling into a pressurized can, which is really fucking stupid, get a can of wd40 with the nozzle and hose. Use that nozzle and hose to transfer the paint.
It's only stupid if the person with the drill is stupid. It's only pressurized until it's not lol.
Your background music drowned out the hissing sound.
practice practice practice before camera
OK ok get to it already geez
UA-cam has a 1.5x and even 2.0x speed.
That gold was metalflake or was it metallic? I'm just starting airbrush
Metallic. It gives a really smooth metal look instead of a glittery type look.