IS A BATTERY ISOLATOR NEEDED FOR TWO BATTERIES?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- ↘️Use Discount Code "JACOBVIRAL" at www.down4sound...
SkyHigh skyhighcaraudi...
BigJeff bigjeffaudio.c...
Xplicit xplicitaudio.c...
Amazon amzn.to/3KqMJh4
Do you think a Battery Isolator is needed? I'll show you here if it really is.
🛒Shop Audio⬇️Discount Code "JACOBVIRAL":
•Subwoofers www.down4sound...
•Amplifiers www.down4sound...
•Alternators www.down4sound...
•Boxes www.down4sound...
•Batteries www.down4sound...
•Speakers www.down4sound...
•Accessories www.down4sound...
My Amazon/Ebay Shop:
•amazon.com/shop...
•ebay.us/6vdEev
Follow My Pages:
📌Instagram - / jacobviral
📌TikTok - / jacobviral
📌Facebook - / jacobviral
📌2nd Channel - / jacobviral2
Support the channel by purchasing through my affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchase.
You should have fuses in the back also, if you cable shorts out in the middle, the car will still burn down because the battery in the back also supplies the current 😮
That’s why I did multiple fuses under the hood then multiple runs of 00 to a fuse block under the rear seat then going to the amps and batteries
That is a bingo
With no battery isolator when one battery starts to fail the internal resistance of the weak battery will prematurely drain the other one. Also the charging system will over charge the good battery ruining it, and it will cause the alternator to fail prematurely due to trying to keep the batteries charged. Do not do this.
Exactly what happened to me
But you change batteries in pairs anyway. When ones done. They're done.
What if you want a second battery to for say an alarm system to keep it from draining when left for long periods? Isolator won’t work
@buysncharge not with an isolator, when used it will help prolong the life of the primary battery by removing it from the circuit to be used only when starting. When connected properly, the secondary battery will be used to run your accessories. That way, you always have a hot battery for starting. A good isolator will automatically provide extra starting power from your secondary if it calls for it. There are many benefits to having an isolator. Again, if your accessories drain your secondary, the primary will still be hot. Unless you have some other problem.
@Tairone1337 yes it will. The isolator is to prevent your primary battery from being drained by your accessories. If your accessories deplete your secondary battery, the primary will still be able to start your vehicle.
Yes its true it can run fine without an isolator the problem is if one of batteries go bad the good battery will slow charge it and if bad battery can't hold the charge good battery will drain all the way down then both will die it happened to me once
Using a Heavy-Duty True battery isolator provides several advantages for truck with auxiliary battery setup.
Reliable Battery Management:
Automatically ensures the starting battery is charged first, then charges the auxiliary battery, preventing the main battery from draining and ensuring reliable engine starts (True Battery Isolator).
No Voltage Drop:
Unlike traditional diode isolators, True isolators have no voltage drop, maintaining optimal charging efficiency (True Battery Isolator).
Dual Sensing Technology:
Monitors the voltage of both batteries and engages charging for both if either battery is receiving a charge, which is particularly useful when using external chargers (True Battery Isolator).
Durable and Compact Design:
Built to withstand harsh conditions with features like waterproofing, heat resistance, and anti-vibration casing, ensuring longevity and reliability in various environments (True Battery Isolator) (True Battery Isolator).
Easy Installation:
Simple three-wire installation without the need to bypass existing alternator wiring, making it user-friendly even for novice installers (True Battery Isolator).
Cost-Effective Solution:
Provides a budget-friendly way to manage dual battery setups effectively, offering long-term savings by extending battery life and preventing failures (True Battery Isolator).
Safety Features:
Includes ignition protection and operates within a wide temperature range, enhancing the safety of your vehicle’s electrical system (True Battery Isolator).
Overall, the True dual battery isolator enhances the reliability, efficiency, and longevity of a dual battery system in various applications, from trucks to boats and RVs. For more details, visit the Trueam dot com or dfna dot info website.
I've used an NVX 500 amp smart isolator in my three battery (parallel) suburban/200 amp alternator. The isolator crapped out after two years and I just removed it, thinking it would be OK for a while. Low and behold I developed a long crank, which progressed to a no start after about a month without the isolator. Same brand/spec batteries purchased together. The voltage always seemed to be >12.6V, but two of my batteries were profoundly dead (one being the start battery) as diagnosed with a proper battery analyzer. The normal surface voltage was coming from the one good remaining battery. So, yes you do need a battery isolator if you run a multi battery system.
Sounds like it's not dual batteries that is your problem. Your alternator is probably not making enough power to charge all 3 batteries
@@darianzielinsky96 LOL hes got 200 amps charging probably around 200 amps. Hes askin a lot of the alt I think yeah?
Definitely didn’t think about the ground off the alt will be ordering some more ofc right now .Great information here as allways.Maryland showing ❤️
Pretty unnecessary just ground your engine properly..Make sure your mounts are clean that's all
Everybody is different on that aspect Jacob. If you like it thats all that matters man. I just hook mine up using certain terminals that holds 0 guage cable.
Yessir correct 👍
This actually is helpful to me for other reasons than your intended reasons lol. Long story but THANK YOU! 👍🏼
Your welcome 👍🔊 more daily demo videos enjoy
@Superior Lawn Care, agreed, now I know what I did wrong back when I was 19 and had a twin battery system, one or two crucial ideas i didn't do.
I think the extra negatives to the alt and second battery is overkill. As long as you have the second grounded to the chassis it's fine. I love your video. Keep pounding man!
That's what I do. Ground rear battery to chassis
Never too much lol
yup , the overkill looks like a messy and costly spider web of ground wires .
LMFAO! .."But safety first... if you're that type of person"
Yes if you have a AGM up front and lithium that charges at about 15 volts then you don't want the AGM draining it while the engine is off. If you have lifep04 then you will be fine without a isolator
@New Alert lithium technology
@New Alert lithium ion phosphate
If you have an AGM under the hood and a limitless lithium 12k in the rear, instead of an isolator can you just pull out the fuses in the back when the vehicle is sitting.
That is a really good idea!
I really appreciate the detail you have within your vehicles. Very informative. Thanks JacobV
You answered a lot of stuff that I needed to know thanks Jacob hey where do you run the ground wire on the alternator?
to the front and rear batts
I agree. If you don't play your system for an extended period of time you don't need an isolator.
Hey thank you for the helpful videos. Your always giving the best professional information.
Well Jacob ty..im running lead efb and agm on a 110alt big 4 upgrade 2 skar svx 12v2d2 with taramps 3k
Your welcome nice!
Nice video. I made sure I "PACIFICALLY" followed your exact directions. Thanks again brotha.
Thanks and your welcome lol
Keep up the great videos Jacob always a wealth of knowledge and entertainment 👍🏾
What if I only ever play my system with engine running.???
No isolator.
H.O alternator is mainly running the show . batteries are minimally unloading if anything. ???.
If daily driver and only when on you’ll be fine usually it’s when longterm parked as the. Batteries have different idle voltages when sitting long periods uncharged
Thank you so much this makes it so much easier. Headache gone. Thanks
Glad to help thanks for subscriber!
On your rear battery did you run the positive side to the alternator also
To the front battery then the front battery to alt big 3 yes
No because I broke mine when trying to Install it but been going strong for years now!
I have a standard battery under my hood, with big 3 an all.
And 2/0 awg. Ran to my back battery from my alternator.
So the battery in the back powers my amps an the one in the hood just powers the car.
I’m under 2500 watts but when I connected it this way in the video my lights would dim really bad.
I been chasing what to do and there is only one way you have to get ballast hid bulbs because halogens work off whatever voltage is available.
A Jacob I get so tired of dead batts.when my trucks in the shop like now.
This might be a stupid question but I'm adding a second battery to my system. I have the big 4 done. The question is I have 2 amplifiers one for the 2 sa sundown 10's and another amplifier for my mids and highs. Do I hook both amplifiers to the second battery? Thanks for all the helpful videos.
Yea you can run multiple amps off one battery or batteries. Whole vehicle is linked really.
Thank you
Appreciate the video but I believe your battery posts could be better. There are post adapters with multiple connections on them
Your correct thanks already fixed ;) amzn.to/3lCpogG
No fusing on your amp? I also don’t understand one 0 gauge power wire from the front battery/alternator (power source), and a gajillion wires to the amp? Seems like feeding a waterfall with a trickle to replenish it. I’m currently (get it? ‘Current’ly) adding a second battery (lithium) and trying to figure out the correct way to do it.
I ran 2 runs from front to back on the power side and 2 runs ground from alt chassis to back. After battery is set there then ground to back chassis in 2 spots to be safe. Now battery can be reliable.
I have two agms but different brands. Xs3400 and yellow top. Will the lesser still pull from my higher battery when i cut off car?
It’s best to run the same battery chemistry but it can work. amzn.to/3d6LKCg
@Jacob Viral2 I have a question for running a 2nd battery... is it better to run power wire from battery to battery or from alternator to 2nd battery in back? I’ve seen it done both ways...I’m trying to figure out if I should be going straight from my Alternator to 2nd battery... thanks for your time bro stay safe...
It would make sense to do both and double up. I do alt runs to front battery then to back with runs from battery as its all linked.
Good to know but I think I’ll be using an isolator!
Quick question. Let's say I already have my two amps wired to the main battery thru a Distribution block. If I add a second battery could I just run that battery to the main battery. Will it still supply extra power and work correctly.
correct, run battery in back to the front, then amps in back can run to back battery or the distribution block to back battery, etc.
Question - if I keep a smaller AGM up front and then a larger different brand AGM in the back... is that possible? To mismatch sizes? Any info would be great.
Yes that’s normal as long as same battery cell type it’s okay to mix sizes
@@JacobViral2 Ok, thank you!
I can’t just run a positive and negative wire to the trunk battery?
That is what normally is done yes, double up if going more than say 3k watts
@@JacobViral2 so 2 positive wire and 2 negative wire?
Can I wire a lithium deep cycle and an AGM starter battery in parallel? You mentioned different voltages...does this mean the AGM will create a voltage balance with the lithium that exceeds the lithium's rated capacity?
Basically yea the difference in resting voltage can affect long term
What about a dual battery setup with a OEM lead acid up front with a 74AH lithium in the back both with the exact same charging voltage both New and in good condition I'm told it's ok to run it with no isolator or DC to DC charger just straight with the alternator like you have but then others tell me lithium doesn't like to constantly be at Max charging voltage I'm told it works best with something that will charge to say the 14.0 and cut off and only kick back on at around 13.2 so the battery actually gets to cycle can anyone tell me more about this I'm new to lithium and ordered the battery and haven't hooked it up yet after two months because I want to do it right
With a lead acid up front and agm out back do you have a serious problem
So if your running a 2nd battery there needs to be a negative wire ran also. I've always thought you only needed to run a power wire then ground it on the chassis. So is what I'm doing wrong?
The ground wire from front to back and alt chassis gives better current flow but just grounding on chassis in 2-3 spots works just not optimal.
@@JacobViral2 ok thanks
Did you keep the factory power and ground on the battery as well as the new big 3
yes correct, just added to what was already there for additional current flow. Thanks for watching/subscribing!
Where are your rear fuses between the two batteries? Only have the two by the front battery? You need fuses within 18" or less on both batteries.
I only had them in the front with no issues for all my systems the past 10 years with no issues but would always suggest fusing like you said yes.
@@JacobViral2 just cause you haven't had a issue in 10 years doesn't mean anything. Just means you haven't had a short in either power wire. Right now if one of those power wires got the insulation cut or melted do to being outside the car, or if you get hit. The side with the fuse would pop protecting that battery. But since the other battery has not protection it will see the short and pump power into that shorted cable.
@@Kicker700
He know that but that vehicle is just for Show.
I have a agm battery under the hood and a 40ah agm in the trunk. I have a isolater in between. My question is.. Can I swap the trunk agm battery for a marine deep cycle battery? I've heard you can but wanted to make sure.
Yea a lot do but always best to have the same technology batteries
After the shop installed a Stinger Isolator for me (recommended by them), I would play my music loud while driving the car. But the next time I turn on the car, code P0603 would come on. Never had the code the week before the isolator was put in. Do you think an isolator would mess with the cars voltage? I most likely will have this removed. Batteries and Alternator reads proper Voltage.
It could affect it if grounding issues or short connections but never used one to knows snot needed.
@@JacobViral2 the fix was finding a proper power source so the isolator can kick on with the ignition on. Where it was tapped in was incorrect.
@@andremichael1218 wow, maybe change who does work on your car. That shop should've been embarrassed
Nice! Glad I found this. What size alternator you got? Does this put a lot pressure on your alternator? What's the longest run I can do with that 0ga cable to the back? Okay to have a 70AH car battery in the front and a 115AH Deep cycle marine battery in the back?
I have a 350 amp alt. No issues on pressure for high output alt no. Most cable runs rated for up to 25 foot but depends on the wire ratings. You’ll be fine with that but best to have the same battery cell type and suggest agms.amzn.to/2OOmg3u
@@JacobViral2 jezus, 350 goddam amps?
@@dennis-br6vr they make 400 Amp ho alts some people have multiple ho alts
Hey jacob so do run a positive wire from the alternator to the second battery as well?
If it’s all linked through terminals/ wire up front it’s not required up to you
How did you know what size fuse to run to the back battery
Wire rating, I recall doing 250 amp
@@JacobViral2 okay thanks
Can you do a video about a battery delete
I have a new stock battery under the hood. Would an AGM battery in the back kill my stock battery? I have a 300A alt
If you daily drive no, but sitting for weeks it can drain as different voltages when sitting long periods of time. You’ll be fine but upgrade under hood to agm when able.
🔴How often should i charge my xs power agm battery for my car audio system
Check it every 5-6 months with a meter, if below 12.6 then charge to full
So, I could run my xs power S975 up front and run the D5100 in the back without an isolator? With my 320a high output alternator
Correct; nice electrical upgrades btw
@@JacobViral2 Thank you very much, sir! I've been watching your videos for years. Good job! Keep it up
I have two xs 3400 I have a battery isolator which I'm about to take off due to the explaining of this video also with this isolator on could it be the reason my voltage is dropping when full tilt
You don't need an isolator unless you plan to keep vehicle off for multiple weeks at end with different battery cell types. You'll be fine. :) Thanks for watching and subscribing Trey!
So if u don’t have an isolator and put an xtra battery if ya back battery has an issue ya car won’t turn on ?
Depends on the issue but usually multiple battery’s help for battery reserve
What’s the purpose of the fuse
Safety, failsafe, in case a shortage, over current draw, etc
So I got one regular lead acid battery for my car and two XS Power D5100R connected in parallel. I didn’t realize that I may need an isolator. I’ve been running this since April and have had no problems. I have just big 3 done with a 320 amp alt, and fuses with every power wire even the one on the amp. Do I need an isolator then??
You’ll be fine without as long as it’s not sitting for a while(5+days) without starting. Usually the idle time with different voltage levels pull from each other. I suggest upgraded under hood to agm when able.
@@JacobViral2 gotcha! This is all in my daily, I rarely go one day without driving it. I think I’ll upgrade it during tax season. Thanks for the response man! I wasn’t expecting it considering this video came out two years ago
Do you have a upgraded alternator so it doesn’t over work
Yes I have a 360amp
I hear a isolator will give you a .4 to .6 voltage drop?
I haven’t tested that but can definitely see anytime you add multiple devices/fuses will relate in minimal losses in transfer
Is it wise to have the battery in your cabin?
Agm is sealed and safe, regular battery no
Hey I have a question. Do I still need a fuse or will a isolator solve that?
Fuses are a safety thing but not 100% required but recommended.
How’d you mount your sub box so it doesn’t move??
Had 2x6s below it then screwed to that.
A Isolator is use so your back battery won’t kill your front battery also depending on your isolator amps it can protect your system equipment sorry but your not explaining what isolator can do also you need to fuse your battery in the back remember that having a battery in the back is like having a battery in the front, The as a reason you’re not getting good voltage is because the fuses in the front you said is only a 120 you supposed to have a 300amp that will work a lot better I’m just saying
You are confusing fuses with resistors. Fuses will allow current flows within the rated amps.
Could you tell me if im able to run the XS Power TITAN8 PWR-S5 12V Lithium Battery in the trunk from an agm battery and be alright?
Yes you can as long as daily driver but they have different voltages when sitting so can drain each other so recommend isolator or a disconnect point if not driving for awhile.
Somewhere on this chassis 🤣🤣🤣🤣 ouwi!
Jacob, would sky high 4 gauge ofc wire be big enough to run a second battery for about 10-12 ft.. from front battery. I have 02’ chevy blazer... just curious if you think the 4 gauge ofc wire is big enough for 2nd battery..... also what size fuse you think will work. I was thinking 150 to 200 and one at each end of the wire
I wouldn’t recommended anything but 0 gauge but afew runs of 4 gauge could work also but not just one. Also yea fuse the power wire newt each battery with rating is the wire.
so just to clarify, this setup is wired in parallel?
yes if it was in series it would toast pretty much everything in the vehicle.
what terminals do have on the back battery
8 spot terminal ebay.us/YyDplA
Can I use a xs battery in the back and and regular battery for now
Yes a lot do but always best to run same battery cells for longer lasting and no battery drainage between different cells if they sit.
Whats up with all the 3m tape?
It's considered SPL dB tape, smooth and easy to apply for good sound deadener output results. I like the look also. Explained it here: ua-cam.com/video/LN6cKMLTEA4/v-deo.html
what if your batteries are 8 ft. from the alternator., 3 batteries., 8 inches from fuse., amp 8 inches from fuse., and this is a factory set-up in a 500+cu.ft. vehicle., installed 2-15's., 2-seperate boxes., 2-3000 watt rms amps .,and still kinda.,., QUIET., at max volume up to distortion.,., ';'
So should I have an isolator between xs power d3400 under the hood and d4900 in the trunk?
No it is not needed at all
I was concerned because of the different models.
@@jordanbrown9127 not to worry all good same battery cell types still
What if you have a acid battery up front and a agm in the back
Will be fine long as you are not sitting for weeks without running the vehicle. Always best to keep same battery cells of course.
@@JacobViral2 you mean if you have a agm in the back you must have one in the front
110 amp alt ... duralast gold in the front ... deep cycle yellow top in the back , 2000w amp 2 12” subs... would it work? Would it kill the alternator? Or should I go with different equipment and sale what I have? Haven’t installed yet ... wondering before I install tho 🤦🏽♂️ high amp alternators are hard to find for my Acura ... that’s my only issue either that or it’s ridiculously high
You’ll be fine with stock alt but of courses a lot better off with high output alt. seen many people run multiple batteries on stock but it’s not optimal.
How do you know what size fuse to use ?
Amp Rating of your wire at long length used is one way or the amp rating as well.
I ordered a xs power d5100 for my front and a xs power xp3000 for the back and I have a stock 130 amp alternator.. I have a skar 2500 watt amp will it be ok to run the batteries in parallel?
You’ll be fine jus make sure to mingle voltage with a meter like this amzn.to/38xMMrm
Yes poss together, negatives together as all are 12v
Lithium & agm with no problems? I'm in the market for lithium for the back 8k sound system.. can you help? Any advice will help
It’s optimal to have the same voltage levels to not make each other battle and same cells. A lot do it with daily drivers and no problems but I would be good to have the whole vehicle on one type if possible but not required.
@@JacobViral2 I also have a noco double 10 amp battery charger on board for the rear.. I think that'll help if I do decide to switch to lithium in the rear until I fully run the same all around . But I'm no expert that's why I listen carefully to you & any other information..
Thank you for this info!
Your welcome thanks for watching and subscribing!
what do you mean by imbalance at idle if I have an agm in the front and a lithium in the back?
The lithium rest at a higher voltage so they will fight each other until they drain. If it’s a daily vehicle it’s no big deal but if it sits for days or weeks it will drain
@@That_Car_Kidd what about me. I have a yellow top agm under hood and a xs3400 in trunk?? Would one drain the other being both agm????
And that’s why you use a battery isolator to cut the circuit from continuously drawing power back from the car battery to house battery. Also he stated the batteries must be grounded because it’ll all be connected if you don’t have a ground you most likely need a battery isolator or else you risk draining your car battery. Good job boys 👍🏼
way to much wiring, battery isolator will eliminate half or more of that wiring. what you have will work but its overkill. also all your exposed + plate in the back and front are great points to have stuff land on them and short out.
Diesel pickups have dual batteries and don't have an isolator. Heavy trucks have 3 or 4 batteries without isolators. If you had two different battery chemistries in same system or one was for cranking and the other for auxiliary power I would isolate it
I have Optima yellowtop D35 in the front
An for my back battery Optima yellowtop DH7 same type of battery just different amps should I be good?
Yep your good no isolator unless you prefer
@@JacobViral2
Sounds good thanks.
ima be upgrading to a 400 amp alternator too, might need an extra DH7 It’s just over kill till I upgrade my amps tho.
@@martinsilva9413 no problem. If you ever need an alternator upgrade go to Mechman and ask them you want a JacobViral deal and I’m sure they’ll take care of ya.
Hey man i have a front battery and a second battery in the trunk,any ideas why the front battery voltage reads different from the rear battery?
Make sure you double up wiring everywhere and confirm your grounds. It should be within .2v difference unless fuses or bad ground.
I have a 2016 nissan Versa and my trunk battery died any ideas?
@@eliezerbrito301 Bad Ground or battery? Have a ground run ran from alternator chassis to back battery? Double up everywhere if able.
To the negative of the rear battery?
@@JacobViral2a ground to the rear negative battery?
Also what amps is that alternator pushing?
350
I guess I have one too many battery for the Orion HCCA 3000.1 I just bought a 2013 Tahoe LTZ, it's came with a 2nd tray for a battery. I was going to take the two XS Power battery from the trunk of my Nissan put one in the 2nd tray battery and one in the back. Do you think a total of three is to much for that Amp?
No such thing as to many batteries for electrical upgrades for a system as long as their the same battery cell type with no issues and proper alternator to support. You’ll be fine and it helps your battery reserve for voltage to amp.
I have more question on my 2nd battery. can I just get the positive from the alternator to the second battery then from there to the third battery without touching the first battery. Cuz I know the main battery is already connected to the alternator by factory?
Hi,I have a company fitted 35Ah starter battery in my car and I want to add a 2nd 50Ah battery so will the alternator charge both battery together if connected in parallel?thanks
Alternator will charge both yes but can put more strain on a stock alternator so suggest upgrading alt.
@@JacobViral2 As the alternator is designed to charge 35Ah stock battery of the car ,if I just replace the 35Ah with 50Ah so will it charge it or will there still be strain on the Alternator??thanks
@@manimenon5403 you will be fine, it just gives you more battery reserve
@@JacobViral2 Thanks, so you mean I don't have to upgrade the Alternator to charge the 50Ah battery
Dont need one especially with quality OFC Wire.
damn bro thats a big ass scion xB you got there. xD
How many amp hours would a 125 alt charge ? Anybody
You are able to run multiple batteries fine with the alt, HO Would be Better though. Atleast 200ah
@@JacobViral2 200ah would be fine with 125 alternator
I have a 80 ah which is bigger the the battery under the hood , should I connect that one with a isolator ,
@@danks2real314 Yes adding additional battery bank will help a lot
Hey thanks for the info man.
I have a XSPOWER D4800 in front and a D3100. I have a Brand X 300 amp alt. No isolators. My D3100 is probably around 3 years old and I just replaced my D4700 with the D4800. The D3100 is sitting around 12.8 and the D4800 sits around 13.0. Do you thank I am harming my D4800?
Yes u are, if batt is not the same, they should be isolated if u do not want the older batt stealing from the new one. U are ruining the 4800. Just get another new 4800 and that will solve issue. Isolaters cause .5 voltage drop. Its why i took mine out. U should never mix old and new batt together. Batteries should be the exact same to be paralleled, same strength and time used.
Well if a battery isolator will cause .5 voltage drop how is that not going to cause more harm than a .2 difference in the two batteries? There both XS Power batteries.
Doesnt matter, ur missing my point cuz, If these batts are wired in parallel they must be the same, exactly the same, not just the brand, the group # as well. U want to wire 2 xs power d3400's together, not 1 d3400 and 1 d4800. This is an example, not what u or i have. I have 4 xs power d3400's buss bared and paralleled and 1 xs d3400 for my front batt. U get my point. Just tryn to help man.
@@bradgilpin9740 voltage drop doesnt cause harm unless its severe, below 11.5 i believe. It can cause harm to your amps, cause them to go into protect. Biggest thing tho, the more u drop in voltage, the less power your amps will see. If u like to sit in the car alot and play music and are not runnin a shit ton of powa, with the car off. An isolator would be perfect for that scenario keeping in mind the half volt drop .
@@bradgilpin9740 that one lil phrase told me everything about your electrical knowledge.
THANKS FOR WATCHING and SUBSCRIBING! MORE VIDEOS TO COME! ➡️Shop Audio: amzn.to/3lqomCw & ebay.us/6vdEev
Join me on Media➡️instagram.com/JacobViral/ & www.tiktok.com/@JacobViral & facebook.com/JacobViral/
Nice...👍👍👍🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹...
This post has so many technical weaknesses… I sincerely doubt anyone would agree that this is best practice.
This video could have been 1 minute 27 sec. Long 😂 if you dont care about your car not starting when playing your music while car off dont use one but if you want your car to start use one. Simple 😂😂😂😂
what a bunch of mumbojumbo