Thanks soo much! I’m a handbuilder at heart, so I love the press molding process you show. And watching the throwing with agateware and nerikomi adds so much excitement to your pieces that it gives me incentive to keep plugging away to get more skillful on the wheel! Awesome!
I just found your channel recently. I love your stuff and your videos! Please do more! I'm just getting going on my pottery since I sold my business and I'm hungry for your kind of tutorial videos! Thank you!
Hi Jim. Great videos and info. I just recently started working with colored clay and understand how to throw the swirlware/agateware . I am trying to attach thin pieces of canes to thrown porcelain vessels but not being to successful yet. I use a pony roller to compress them on and then use the roller while the wheel is spinning to compress more, however I find the roller doesn't always spin. Have you ever tried that method and if so, do you have a video on that or any suggestions to be more successful with it? Thanks, Michele .
I have done similar things like that a few times. I don’t know if you need to be spinning the wheel to do it. And maybe you’re not getting enough compression because the piece is “giving” under the pressure you’re placing on it? Maybe try rolling it on while pressing from the inside. Might help. Obviously make sure they are the same consistency. Let me know.
I haven't watched all of your videos yet, but I'm wondering how the clay coloring (thus agate/Nerikomi) might work with a low-fire white clay. I get my clay from Archie Bray in Helena, MT.
I have no reason to believe it wouldn’t. Sometimes colors burn out at higher temperatures. That’s the only issue I’ve come across but since you’re using low fire you should be good! Ahh, the good ole Archie Bray. Are you a resident there?
@@CeramicJimJim thanks for the reply. No not a resident of the Bray. Maybe someday! I live in Billings. Now I'll have to order up some mason stains from them! Thanks again
Thanks, great video content. I was wondering if there is much of a difference between the two. I've tried both and don't see much difference. Is there a way to make the layers of clay more wavy on the wheel? I find it is often back to straight horizontal lines with a bit of wave but not good enough for me.
Thanks. Well typically you don’t throw nerikomi. You’d stack it like I did and then cut a slab cross section and hand build. You can achieve some wavyness but it’s random. I’m always trying to control the swirl with different set ups but haven’t figured that one out yet.
I've been dabbling in colored clay for a few months and pottery for 2yrs as a retirement hobby. I have been watching yours and others videos on colored clay. I've been making canes, cutting them and making slabs for mugs and plates. I'm having trouble getting crisp edges as blending happens in my process. Would you sand as green ware or bisque ware to clean this up? Do you have a video on this part of the process? Love your forum.
Thanks so much. I use a green scotchbrite at the greenware stage. I don’t have a video on that yet. But I do most with the scotchbrite and some touch ups after during the bisque stage. The sanding at greenware stage is messy and risky but it’s faster.
From what I had gathered, Neri-komi refers to Neri(to mix) and Komi (to build). Neri-age (to mix) and to(pull or draw upward). I had read that in Japan the two terms are often confused and used one for the other. Neriage appears then, to lend itself to throwing more than Nerikomi, it seems. The term 'agateware' is the equivalent British term for Neriage. Does that sound correct? I'd like to know for sure, as I'm collecting this type of work currently. Of the few pieces I have a few observations have been made. One of the potters managed to throw his pieces where the insides aren't patterned or colored at all, unlike the exterior of course. In fact, the inside appears to be an entirely different kind of clay than the mixed parts...did he pack the mixed clay around a natural core? Also, the pieces that i have are 'carved' with various groove patterns probably in the leather hard stage? Anyway, those pieces show very fine and distinct layers...really stunning. Do you carve your pieces? I think this is the first video I've seen a removable work surface plate. I don't do ceramics, maybe I'm in the dark, lol, just never saw that before. Thanks for the great videos. You do great work.
You’re right on. Nerikomi isn’t a wheel throwing technique. I just used it a reference to the clean stacked blocks of clay (as they would be) compared to the wedged up agateware. Agateware and neriage ARE basically the same. Carving into it gives you those stunning effects. As for the clean inside. Yes, some potters will laminate a colored slab to a blank slab. I’ve done it before. It adds strength. Saves some clay. Or some will carve into a thick donut on the wheel. Pack in some colored coils then thrown. There are so many variations out there. Glad you found clay. It’s awesome isn’t it?
Hi Jim, just LOVE your work so inspiring. Wondering so mason stains are food safe..? Haha I'm such a beginner (from nz) want to marble and have now done so with random stajjns but now wondering if they are food safe etc... if you put a clear glaze over top would that seal if in perhaps? Or not really don't want tyo poison my family with my experiments lol
Thank you, Anne! Lol. I don’t think anyone would WANT to poison their family. The age old argument of food safe clay and glazes. I’ve been in a lot of discussion and threads about glazes even being good safe. If you get a nice liner glaze that doesn’t craze then that’s you should be good. Especially if you use a simple glaze like a clear or white that doesn’t use any questionable ingredient in it in the first place.
@@CeramicJim haha! Thanks for your message so nice to connect with you and very helpful (this Anne's daughter (Sonia:-) ...just borrowed her acc lol. Loving your awesome work. Your very talented. And all your videos are fantastic.
Thanks! The pottery wheel was fortunately a hand-me-down from a family friend who no longer had a use for it. It's an old shimpo. If you find one used they're worth about $200-$300. Unless you're talking about the red banding wheel. It used to be blue, so I painted it bright red for fun. The bat system I bought about 10 years ago so I'm not exactly sure. I think it was from NorthStar: www.theceramicshop.com/product/12250/NS-Universal-Bat-Package/ I also bought an extra pack of bats when I bought it. There is another that is similar and square by dirty girl, a brand I've used for other tools, here is that link: www.bigceramicstore.com/dirty-girls-bat-insert-system-square-inserts-6-5in.html They sell round insert systems but the square ones take up less space. Both those kits are about $60 and worth every penny.
Yeah I was a little sad with that solid white bands. Sometimes it just luck of the draw with centering and coning up and down. I’m excited to trim fire them.
@@CeramicJim I noticed one master potter demo nerikomi, during centering he would change the direction of the wheel to offset the swirling clay and getting it back straightened. It was amazing to watch his centering technic .
That sounds amazing. Probably harder than it looks. I wish my wheel had a reverse option because I think I would try that out. You've got me thinking now Assaf Shuval. Thanks for the tip!
I have before on other pieces but it’s a lot of work. It too risky to scrape when it’s wet and extra time clean up the inside. I usually glaze these pieces with a white liner anyways for that reason.
Thanks soo much! I’m a handbuilder at heart, so I love the press molding process you show.
And watching the throwing with agateware and nerikomi adds so much excitement to your pieces that it gives me incentive to keep plugging away to get more skillful on the wheel! Awesome!
Thanks so much! That’s what I hope I can do for some of my viewers. Keep me updated with what you’re making!
I'll give that a try, thanks. Don't worry I wear the proper PPE when handling potentially hazardous materials.
I just found your channel recently. I love your stuff and your videos! Please do more! I'm just getting going on my pottery since I sold my business and I'm hungry for your kind of tutorial videos! Thank you!
My kind of tutorials eh? Sounds good! I’m so happy you found your way here! More to come. Stay tuned!
Awesome work Jim, crushin' it.
Thank you Andrea. I really appreciate your comment.
I love your videos Jim! You shine so much good vibes 💜💙💚💛🧡❤️
Your smile makes my day!
Thanks! Hoping to start up videos again soon when the studio is finished.
Love your videos and I’m not even a potter! Lol but my sister is, so I’ll highly recommend her your site 👍🏼😉. Blessings from Chile 🇨🇱!
Thanks!
Fascinating work.
Reminds me of damascus steel.
Wonderful art :)
Thank you very much!
I love both... want to see the result of the mugs after it was glazed... hope you apload it ....
Thanks!!! Oh I certainly will. They’ll probably come out in Kiln unloading 3 or something.
facinating, love it
Thank you Valerie!
As always really interesting and inspiring ;)
Thanks Tim!
Hi Jim. Great videos and info. I just recently started working with colored clay and understand how to throw the swirlware/agateware .
I am trying to attach thin pieces of canes to thrown porcelain vessels but not being to successful yet. I use a pony roller to compress them on
and then use the roller while the wheel is spinning to compress more, however I find the roller doesn't always spin.
Have you ever tried that method and if so, do you have a video on that or any suggestions to be more successful with it?
Thanks,
Michele
.
I have done similar things like that a few times. I don’t know if you need to be spinning the wheel to do it. And maybe you’re not getting enough compression because the piece is “giving” under the pressure you’re placing on it? Maybe try rolling it on while pressing from the inside. Might help. Obviously make sure they are the same consistency. Let me know.
I was really surprised how similar they are.
I was too actually. The stacked nerikomi has those subtle jagged edges, which is nice, but that’s about it.
I haven't watched all of your videos yet, but I'm wondering how the clay coloring (thus agate/Nerikomi) might work with a low-fire white clay. I get my clay from Archie Bray in Helena, MT.
I have no reason to believe it wouldn’t. Sometimes colors burn out at higher temperatures. That’s the only issue I’ve come across but since you’re using low fire you should be good! Ahh, the good ole Archie Bray. Are you a resident there?
@@CeramicJimJim thanks for the reply. No not a resident of the Bray. Maybe someday! I live in Billings. Now I'll have to order up some mason stains from them! Thanks again
Of course. Let me know how it goes!
I just found your videos. Do you ever show them finished!?!?
I’ve done two kiln unloadings so far. Once I finish enough work fire them and I show finished projects so stay tuned!!
Super! -)) Thank you!
Happy to help!
Thanks, great video content. I was wondering if there is much of a difference between the two. I've tried both and don't see much difference. Is there a way to make the layers of clay more wavy on the wheel? I find it is often back to straight horizontal lines with a bit of wave but not good enough for me.
Thanks. Well typically you don’t throw nerikomi. You’d stack it like I did and then cut a slab cross section and hand build. You can achieve some wavyness but it’s random. I’m always trying to control the swirl with different set ups but haven’t figured that one out yet.
I've been dabbling in colored clay for a few months and pottery for 2yrs as a retirement hobby. I have been watching yours and others videos on colored clay. I've been making canes, cutting them and making slabs for mugs and plates. I'm having trouble getting crisp edges as blending happens in my process. Would you sand as green ware or bisque ware to clean this up? Do you have a video on this part of the process? Love your forum.
Thanks so much. I use a green scotchbrite at the greenware stage. I don’t have a video on that yet. But I do most with the scotchbrite and some touch ups after during the bisque stage. The sanding at greenware stage is messy and risky but it’s faster.
Gosh! I love both! How do you choose?
I’m right there with you Wanda! I might carve into them and see how that reveals the layers.
From what I had gathered, Neri-komi refers to Neri(to mix) and Komi (to build). Neri-age (to mix) and to(pull or draw upward). I had read that in Japan the two terms are often confused and used one for the other. Neriage appears then, to lend itself to throwing more than Nerikomi, it seems. The term 'agateware' is the equivalent British term for Neriage. Does that sound correct? I'd like to know for sure, as I'm collecting this type of work currently.
Of the few pieces I have a few observations have been made. One of the potters managed to throw his pieces where the insides aren't patterned or colored at all, unlike the exterior of course. In fact, the inside appears to be an entirely different kind of clay than the mixed parts...did he pack the mixed clay around a natural core? Also, the pieces that i have are 'carved' with various groove patterns probably in the leather hard stage? Anyway, those pieces show very fine and distinct layers...really stunning. Do you carve your pieces?
I think this is the first video I've seen a removable work surface plate. I don't do ceramics, maybe I'm in the dark, lol, just never saw that before.
Thanks for the great videos. You do great work.
You’re right on. Nerikomi isn’t a wheel throwing technique. I just used it a reference to the clean stacked blocks of clay (as they would be) compared to the wedged up agateware. Agateware and neriage ARE basically the same. Carving into it gives you those stunning effects.
As for the clean inside. Yes, some potters will laminate a colored slab to a blank slab. I’ve done it before. It adds strength. Saves some clay. Or some will carve into a thick donut on the wheel. Pack in some colored coils then thrown. There are so many variations out there. Glad you found clay. It’s awesome isn’t it?
Hi Jim, just LOVE your work so inspiring. Wondering so mason stains are food safe..? Haha I'm such a beginner (from nz) want to marble and have now done so with random stajjns but now wondering if they are food safe etc... if you put a clear glaze over top would that seal if in perhaps? Or not really don't want tyo poison my family with my experiments lol
Thank you, Anne! Lol. I don’t think anyone would WANT to poison their family. The age old argument of food safe clay and glazes. I’ve been in a lot of discussion and threads about glazes even being good safe. If you get a nice liner glaze that doesn’t craze then that’s you should be good. Especially if you use a simple glaze like a clear or white that doesn’t use any questionable ingredient in it in the first place.
@@CeramicJim haha! Thanks for your message so nice to connect with you and very helpful (this Anne's daughter (Sonia:-) ...just borrowed her acc lol. Loving your awesome work. Your very talented. And all your videos are fantastic.
Such kind words. Thank you, Sonia.
What is the blue thing that you’re wedging your clay on????
It’s just a piece of wood covered with blue fabric. It brightens up the studio a bit instead of plain canvas.
Bro, I love the vessels, but I gotta know where you got that wheel and those wheel head inserts
Thanks! The pottery wheel was fortunately a hand-me-down from a family friend who no longer had a use for it. It's an old shimpo. If you find one used they're worth about $200-$300. Unless you're talking about the red banding wheel. It used to be blue, so I painted it bright red for fun. The bat system I bought about 10 years ago so I'm not exactly sure. I think it was from NorthStar: www.theceramicshop.com/product/12250/NS-Universal-Bat-Package/ I also bought an extra pack of bats when I bought it.
There is another that is similar and square by dirty girl, a brand I've used for other tools, here is that link: www.bigceramicstore.com/dirty-girls-bat-insert-system-square-inserts-6-5in.html
They sell round insert systems but the square ones take up less space. Both those kits are about $60 and worth every penny.
Great, how many degree in oven?
350 for 10-15 minutes. It will dry on its own too. Just much slower.
@@CeramicJim I mean, how hot is the oven? Enough 2000F?
My kiln can reach 2250 F.
This random one is cooler, nerikomi one has this white strip that spoils the effect in my opinion :) I'd love to see them glazed :)
Yeah I was a little sad with that solid white bands. Sometimes it just luck of the draw with centering and coning up and down. I’m excited to trim fire them.
@@CeramicJim I noticed one master potter demo nerikomi, during centering he would change the direction of the wheel to offset the swirling clay and getting it back straightened. It was amazing to watch his centering technic .
That sounds amazing. Probably harder than it looks. I wish my wheel had a reverse option because I think I would try that out. You've got me thinking now Assaf Shuval. Thanks for the tip!
The white band was just what I liked.
Good to know! Thanks for the comment!
Do you scrape inside slip, too?
I have before on other pieces but it’s a lot of work. It too risky to scrape when it’s wet and extra time clean up the inside. I usually glaze these pieces with a white liner anyways for that reason.
Nerikomi 👍
There’s one for the nerikomi. I think it carves better in the next video.
Genio
Your choice of music is just nonsense