Thanks. Needed this I’m putting 6. Led pod lights on my 2021 CF Moto u force. I bought the amazon wire harness so positive and ground. And self tap the modulater ,then run the wires and wire loom under and safe to dash, what I need to know there’s a split with white plug. 3/4 the way up to the far end where the four plug in ends come out is that plug 3/4 the way up a plug that can go n the factory wire harness so it’s keyed with the key and battery so only lights on if keys on. . I can’t find any info on it except yours
awesome! dumb question// I was thinking of adding a second dist blk for ground? is that not needed? I cannot wrap my mind around where everything is grounded...
Not really a dumb question at all. If you plan to add items in the future and want a convenient central place to ground everything, you could certainly add another distribution block for grounding. The whole frame of the machine is grounded though, so it is possible to just bolt on to it at pretty much any location for your ground. Just be sure you're not bolting to things like moving suspension parts and such.
so your running the top fuse just to run trigger power to you switches and then on to trigger relays that are ran from the rest of the fuses? Man your video is super helpful! I hope I am replaying this and hearing it correct for the 15th time. lol
Yes. The one fuse supplies the power to all of the switches (other than the winch switch) as well as the lights on the switches themselves, and it also is the switched power source for the MB Quart sound bar I have installed. That power travels through the switches to trigger the individual relays that control the individually fused added accessories. The only "substantial" load on the circuit is the soundbar and the LED lights in the switches. The relays only draw about an additional 1 amp if they are are all energized at the same time, so that circuit is only drawing maybe 5-6A with everything running at the same time
I really like the job you did on the wiring, I plan to do the same. Question: How can I use the flash indicators on the cluster of a uforce 1000 dash with a 3rd party turn signal kit?
That's a really clean build, wow. Maybe you can help me..I bought a used 2019 1000 and the illumination of the wiper switch is always on. Same cab like yours wirh the heater. Any idea how I can change the connection / plug so that is linked to the key and not always on? Thank you!
Are you 100% certain that it's on all the time? I know mine has power for approx. 30 seconds after turning the key off, and then it will shut down. Unless they rewired it all, it should have plugged into an OEM connector under the dash for the heater and wiper.
@@NewcomerGarage oh good to know about the delay. I checked it right after engine shutdown. I will take a look if it will turn off after some time. Thanks !
You mention that there is a power lead that is tied to the key switch at the winch block. For the life of me I cannot find which lead is switched. All seem to carry power even when the key is not in the ignition. Can you remember which color leads you tied into for a switched power connection? Thanks,
I kind of misspoke in the video, and I apologize for that. The keyed power wire isn't on the actual winch relay box itself, but is right next to it on the wireless controller. It's a small gauge red wire.
I just installed a power windshield. Cannot find an accessory power source to tap into that has 10amps. Al I need is power and ground. But the dealer has pointed me at a pig tail that’s up around the steering column. The problem is it’s dead. No power in any position. Hot, keyed or even with the engine started? Do you have any advice on where I should be looking? I have about 8 feet of leads, so I can really get to almost anywhere.
On my 2021, there is a 2 pin Gray plug under the dash in the center near the switch blanks that I believe has switched power to it if I remember correctly. The issue I found was that all of the switched power I found had a 20-30 second delay after turning the ignition off before it would shut off. The only place I was able to find a switched source that would turn off immediately with the key was the small gauge red wire at the wireless controller for the winch. I used that to trigger a relay for my whole fuse block. You could do the same thing with a smaller relay to get a 10A capable feed. A relay coil has very minimal current draw, so using that switched source from the wireless controller to trigger the relay is safe to do. Hook pin 85 to the wireless controller, 86 to ground, 30 to the battery+ (14AWG wire should be sufficient with a 10A fuse within 18" of battery) and 87 to your windshield power wire.
I used the small gauge Red wire up by the winch relays to trigger the Accessory relay. I believe it is actually for the Wireless remote module, not the winch relays themselves. (Small black box next to/behind the winch relays)
Is your horn button wired to the cfmoto fuse box. If so witch fuse is it. Mine didn’t come with horn. I have the switch for the dash. Now I have to figure out the best way to hook it up
@@NewcomerGarage there was a plug behind the knock out underneath dash. So I got er done, and thank you so much for getting back to me, I didn’t expect that😀
The cab and heater are the DFK Hardcabs kit. I'm looking forward to using it this winter for plowing my driveway. (And probably the neighbors driveways too) My daughter is currently attending ISU, that's the reason for the shirt in the other video... Not necessarily a "fan", but definitely a "financial contributer"!
Im assuming you are referring to the ones in the center area of the dash kind of behind/above the storage pocket? Those are the OEM plugs for the turn signal switch, hazzard light switch, etc... I didn't test any of them for keyed power, but it wouldn't surprise me if there was an "accessory" circuit in that group. As far as whether it's a good place to wire your radio in, that would depend on what else may be on that same circuit, as you don't want to overload it.
@@jonny5269 I'm not necessarily saying that's the case... it depends on a lot of factors. What type of radio it is, whether it needs both constant and switched power, and what kind of current it draws. The battery is a safe bet, but not helpful really if you want it to turn off with the key.
Thank you so much! This video was incredibly helpful. I wound up using the exact same components and it made for a really nice clean install. As far as the winch to switch control, I know where the wires are. I was going to T tap into them and run them to my switch. Did you just run the 3 wires (switched power and the two poles)? Do I need to ground the switch? Thanks for your time.
Yes, it's just the 3 wires for the winch switch, but if I recall, you'll need to jump the switched 12v wire to the terminal for the light on the switch and also a ground wire if you want the switch to light up. Also, I'd strongly recommend against using the T-tap style connectors that just pinch on the existing wires. They cause damage to the conductors and have a tendency to cause corrosion. Check out my automotive and powersports wiring videos. I covered a lot about different types of connections in those videos!
Great job on the fuse block. Looks factory installed! Could you let me know how you mounted the lightbar and provide specifics on the model of the light and the mounts? Better yet, a video would be great! Thanks for the videos - please keep them coming!
Thanks for watching, I dont have a video of the install of the light bar, but it really only involved drilling 2 holes in the roof and using the provided screws and brackets that come with the light. I did make a couple 1/2" spacers just so I could aim it downward a bit more, but those are as some as cutting a piece of ABS plastic and drilling a hole. It won't let me post pictures here. If I remember, I'll try to throw it in another video for you. Subscribe to the channel, and you can get notifications when new videos are posted. Nilight - 40007C-A 51Inch 250W... www.amazon.com/dp/B073JHDL2D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@NewcomerGarage So you mounted it to the plastic roof only or do the bolts go through any metal? My local shop told me they did not think the plastic roof would support a light bar of that size. That's why I was asking. I am subscribed and certainly appreciate the videos!
@@gregsmith3023 Yeah, its just through the plastic at this time, but I may add metal brackets in the future. the mounting points are close to a bend in the roof so there is a bit more rigidity than if it were on a large flat area. I haven't noticed any issues or vibrations being mounted like that so far.
There is a link for the light bar in the video description. (4th link down from top) I just ran the wiring around and under the front lip of the windshield for now as I may be re mounting the light bar at a later time. The wires then run down the roll bar from there to my wiring from the relay.
I don't think I've ever really touched on the winch control switch in any of my videos... Its pretty simple, there are 3 wires at the winch relays up under the drivers fender. If I remember correctly, they are Black, Red, and Green (all smaller gauge wires), one is power, one is winch out, and the last one is winch in. I basically just tapped into those and extended the wires inside the cab to the dash mounted switch. The only other wires on that switch are for the lights in the switch, and those are wired along with my other switches lights.
Just to be clear, you were right, to the winch controller in the cab, there's three wires, black green and red. I'm trying to tap into the ignition like you did to run a relay off the key (your exact setup). The black and green you ran into the new winch switch and the last red is the one you used to the 250 amp relay? Or a different red wire? All three are small gauge wires. I'm assuming if that's the red wire you used, you split it to the winch switch and to the 250 amp relay? Am I correct? Thanks!
There is a small gauge Red wire for the wireless controller for the winch that I tapped into to trigger the relay back by the battery. It's a small black box right behind the winch Relays under the hood.
MB Quart MBQOH46-1 46 Inch... www.amazon.com/dp/B08XN1GCN5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Thanks for watching, be sure to subscribe, more videos coming soon!
What brand and where do you get your switches that fit so nice? I just bought mine and am looking to add the setup like yours with the winch, speakers, and lights.
Great job on the fuse Box and relay I have Au force 1000 I would love to see if you could install this for me don't know exactly where you're at maybe you're close ,Contact me
Cleanest install I have ever seen. Nice!
Thanks 👍
Thanks. Needed this I’m putting 6. Led pod lights on my 2021 CF Moto u force. I bought the amazon wire harness so positive and ground. And self tap the modulater ,then run the wires and wire loom under and safe to dash, what I need to know there’s a split with white plug. 3/4 the way up to the far end where the four plug in ends come out is that plug 3/4 the way up a plug that can go n the factory wire harness so it’s keyed with the key and battery so only lights on if keys on. . I can’t find any info on it except yours
Sorry, I'm not familiar with the plug you're referring to.
Do you have a video on wiring the winch switch?
I’d like to see this too. Or a diagram
awesome! dumb question// I was thinking of adding a second dist blk for ground? is that not needed? I cannot wrap my mind around where everything is grounded...
Not really a dumb question at all. If you plan to add items in the future and want a convenient central place to ground everything, you could certainly add another distribution block for grounding. The whole frame of the machine is grounded though, so it is possible to just bolt on to it at pretty much any location for your ground. Just be sure you're not bolting to things like moving suspension parts and such.
@@NewcomerGarage good idea, thanks
so your running the top fuse just to run trigger power to you switches and then on to trigger relays that are ran from the rest of the fuses? Man your video is super helpful! I hope I am replaying this and hearing it correct for the 15th time. lol
Yes. The one fuse supplies the power to all of the switches (other than the winch switch) as well as the lights on the switches themselves, and it also is the switched power source for the MB Quart sound bar I have installed. That power travels through the switches to trigger the individual relays that control the individually fused added accessories. The only "substantial" load on the circuit is the soundbar and the LED lights in the switches. The relays only draw about an additional 1 amp if they are are all energized at the same time, so that circuit is only drawing maybe 5-6A with everything running at the same time
Very clean install!! Thats alot better than i can do!!
I really like the job you did on the wiring, I plan to do the same.
Question: How can I use the flash indicators on the cluster of a uforce 1000 dash with a 3rd party turn signal kit?
That's a really clean build, wow.
Maybe you can help me..I bought a used 2019 1000 and the illumination of the wiper switch is always on. Same cab like yours wirh the heater. Any idea how I can change the connection / plug so that is linked to the key and not always on?
Thank you!
Are you 100% certain that it's on all the time? I know mine has power for approx. 30 seconds after turning the key off, and then it will shut down. Unless they rewired it all, it should have plugged into an OEM connector under the dash for the heater and wiper.
@@NewcomerGarage oh good to know about the delay.
I checked it right after engine shutdown. I will take a look if it will turn off after some time. Thanks !
You mention that there is a power lead that is tied to the key switch at the winch block. For the life of me I cannot find which lead is switched. All seem to carry power even when the key is not in the ignition. Can you remember which color leads you tied into for a switched power connection? Thanks,
I kind of misspoke in the video, and I apologize for that. The keyed power wire isn't on the actual winch relay box itself, but is right next to it on the wireless controller. It's a small gauge red wire.
I just installed a power windshield. Cannot find an accessory power source to tap into that has 10amps. Al I need is power and ground. But the dealer has pointed me at a pig tail that’s up around the steering column. The problem is it’s dead. No power in any position. Hot, keyed or even with the engine started? Do you have any advice on where I should be looking? I have about 8 feet of leads, so I can really get to almost anywhere.
On my 2021, there is a 2 pin Gray plug under the dash in the center near the switch blanks that I believe has switched power to it if I remember correctly. The issue I found was that all of the switched power I found had a 20-30 second delay after turning the ignition off before it would shut off. The only place I was able to find a switched source that would turn off immediately with the key was the small gauge red wire at the wireless controller for the winch. I used that to trigger a relay for my whole fuse block. You could do the same thing with a smaller relay to get a 10A capable feed. A relay coil has very minimal current draw, so using that switched source from the wireless controller to trigger the relay is safe to do. Hook pin 85 to the wireless controller, 86 to ground, 30 to the battery+ (14AWG wire should be sufficient with a 10A fuse within 18" of battery) and 87 to your windshield power wire.
Thanks for the video. I love your doors, where did you get them?
What wire is the ignition wire? I only found a constant power not when my key is in and the machine started
I used the small gauge Red wire up by the winch relays to trigger the Accessory relay. I believe it is actually for the Wireless remote module, not the winch relays themselves. (Small black box next to/behind the winch relays)
Is your horn button wired to the cfmoto fuse box. If so witch fuse is it. Mine didn’t come with horn. I have the switch for the dash. Now I have to figure out the best way to hook it up
I couldn't tell you which fuse it's wired to honestly, that all came standard on my machine, I didn't add that.
@@NewcomerGarage there was a plug behind the knock out underneath dash. So I got er done, and thank you so much for getting back to me, I didn’t expect that😀
Glad you got it working! I'm surprised it wasn't in there when you bought it...
What is the make and model of your windshield?
It was part of the DFK Hardcabs kit
Where did you get the doors and what brand are they
The doors are from DFK Hardcabs. I ordered the cab kit through my dealer when I bought my machine.
Curious about your doors and heater. Looking at a UForce for snow as well. I noticed your shirt in another video, Go Clones!
The cab and heater are the DFK Hardcabs kit. I'm looking forward to using it this winter for plowing my driveway. (And probably the neighbors driveways too) My daughter is currently attending ISU, that's the reason for the shirt in the other video... Not necessarily a "fan", but definitely a "financial contributer"!
The cluster of wires not connected to anything underneath the dash, are those for accessories? Key powered? Good place to wire a radio into?
Thanks
Im assuming you are referring to the ones in the center area of the dash kind of behind/above the storage pocket? Those are the OEM plugs for the turn signal switch, hazzard light switch, etc... I didn't test any of them for keyed power, but it wouldn't surprise me if there was an "accessory" circuit in that group. As far as whether it's a good place to wire your radio in, that would depend on what else may be on that same circuit, as you don't want to overload it.
@@NewcomerGarage ok thanks, so would it be better to wire it in to the battery with a fuse of course?
@@jonny5269 I'm not necessarily saying that's the case... it depends on a lot of factors. What type of radio it is, whether it needs both constant and switched power, and what kind of current it draws. The battery is a safe bet, but not helpful really if you want it to turn off with the key.
Thank you so much! This video was incredibly helpful. I wound up using the exact same components and it made for a really nice clean install. As far as the winch to switch control, I know where the wires are. I was going to T tap into them and run them to my switch. Did you just run the 3 wires (switched power and the two poles)? Do I need to ground the switch? Thanks for your time.
Yes, it's just the 3 wires for the winch switch, but if I recall, you'll need to jump the switched 12v wire to the terminal for the light on the switch and also a ground wire if you want the switch to light up. Also, I'd strongly recommend against using the T-tap style connectors that just pinch on the existing wires. They cause damage to the conductors and have a tendency to cause corrosion. Check out my automotive and powersports wiring videos. I covered a lot about different types of connections in those videos!
Great job on the fuse block. Looks factory installed! Could you let me know how you mounted the lightbar and provide specifics on the model of the light and the mounts? Better yet, a video would be great! Thanks for the videos - please keep them coming!
Thanks for watching, I dont have a video of the install of the light bar, but it really only involved drilling 2 holes in the roof and using the provided screws and brackets that come with the light. I did make a couple 1/2" spacers just so I could aim it downward a bit more, but those are as some as cutting a piece of ABS plastic and drilling a hole. It won't let me post pictures here. If I remember, I'll try to throw it in another video for you. Subscribe to the channel, and you can get notifications when new videos are posted.
Nilight - 40007C-A 51Inch 250W... www.amazon.com/dp/B073JHDL2D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@NewcomerGarage So you mounted it to the plastic roof only or do the bolts go through any metal? My local shop told me they did not think the plastic roof would support a light bar of that size. That's why I was asking. I am subscribed and certainly appreciate the videos!
@@gregsmith3023 Yeah, its just through the plastic at this time, but I may add metal brackets in the future. the mounting points are close to a bend in the roof so there is a bit more rigidity than if it were on a large flat area. I haven't noticed any issues or vibrations being mounted like that so far.
Uh. Cool doors
What light bar? How did you run the wiring and such?
There is a link for the light bar in the video description. (4th link down from top) I just ran the wiring around and under the front lip of the windshield for now as I may be re mounting the light bar at a later time. The wires then run down the roll bar from there to my wiring from the relay.
Where did you get that flip up windshield?
It is part of the DFK Hardcabs kit.
Awesome. Idea taken
Have at it! I won't even charge you for it!
Did you go over how you wired the winch control switch at all? That's a cool option!
I don't think I've ever really touched on the winch control switch in any of my videos... Its pretty simple, there are 3 wires at the winch relays up under the drivers fender. If I remember correctly, they are Black, Red, and Green (all smaller gauge wires), one is power, one is winch out, and the last one is winch in. I basically just tapped into those and extended the wires inside the cab to the dash mounted switch. The only other wires on that switch are for the lights in the switch, and those are wired along with my other switches lights.
Just to be clear, you were right, to the winch controller in the cab, there's three wires, black green and red. I'm trying to tap into the ignition like you did to run a relay off the key (your exact setup). The black and green you ran into the new winch switch and the last red is the one you used to the 250 amp relay? Or a different red wire? All three are small gauge wires. I'm assuming if that's the red wire you used, you split it to the winch switch and to the 250 amp relay? Am I correct? Thanks!
That is correct
I've watched your video 10x. Where did you get your keyed power from as your feed?
There is a small gauge Red wire for the wireless controller for the winch that I tapped into to trigger the relay back by the battery. It's a small black box right behind the winch Relays under the hood.
How did you ground the relays? Did you ground each one separate?
The grounds for the coils of the relays are tied together and grounded to the chassis.
What is the soundbar? Where did you purchase it? Great video. Thank you!
MB Quart MBQOH46-1 46 Inch... www.amazon.com/dp/B08XN1GCN5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thanks for watching, be sure to subscribe, more videos coming soon!
What windshield did you purchase?
It came with the DFK Hardcabs kit
Do you like the cab enclosure kit? Good job on the fuse block.
Thank you. For the most part I like the cab, but I would prefer the CFMOTO doors over the clear doors
What brand and where do you get your switches that fit so nice? I just bought mine and am looking to add the setup like yours with the winch, speakers, and lights.
I used the MICTUNING switches on Amazon.
@@NewcomerGarage thanks!
Great job on the fuse Box and relay I have Au force 1000 I would love to see if you could install this for me don't know exactly where you're at maybe you're close ,Contact me
Feel free to email me. Newcomergarage@gmail.com
Uh...uhm...
great job!
Thanks for watching!
Sorry relay I meant to say