ya know when I went to UA-cam University and went through tons of videos to find the right ones to do my bathroom reno's. Your videos were the only ones that really went step by step with detailed explanation so I , a beginner and one time DIY'er , could understand and execute the process well and efficient . I also live in a stilt house so it would be easy to see any leaks from the pan or plumbing and drains . I am grateful for your videos and expertise , and I don't care how many times I had to ago back and watch in order to understand and get things right .....Thank You
Yes, been binge watching Bob for a week now. Learning a lot on what not to do and what to do. About to take out a preformed shower on cement slab and go the all tile route. The talking is good. He speaks what hes thinking which helps a lot.
Good on Andy pulling the eject and calling a Pro. Often we don't realize how the builders jerry rigged an area until we open the walls. Overcoming their issues adds a whole 'nother level of complexity. Final result is beautiful. Very tasteful choice of materials. You've added value to your home.
Bob, i've watched lots of your videos. Love them all. The best tip is a large niche. I love it. 13" tall, 32" wide. I get "that bottle holder is so cool" i tile it similar to how you do it. Face frame it with tile. I'm doing my slab basement, floor is all smashed out. Old cast iron. Drain and toilet. Putting in 36" wide linear drain. Red guard it all. I was about to get a pan liner, not needed on slab basement. It says it's a direct pan material (directions) and paint right onto pvc drain. No fabric needed. I'll put a little fabric soaked in redguard and bolt into the flange. Curb less. Thanks for the content. Thumbs up
I agree Bob , A bit of a mind bender to sort this out . All these surprises when you walk on to a job are always a consideration when pricing . It always comes down to the finish work and the paint in order to please a customer . So much goes on behind a wall to get it to look like this true work of art . Beautiful end result , but more important, a superb prep job as you know you can't have one without the other . P. S . keep talking .
If you find yourself adding shims to the studs, or wanting to add shims to the studs, stop what you're doing immediately. Either find 1 to 3 tile installers to advise you on how they want the backer board positioned, and/or watch YT videos, particularly from this author, because as he points out starting at time 6:30, if you shim the studs just to be able to make the backer board sit on top of the flat part of the tub's border, you invite water seeping upward and into the backer board over time. A 'sanity check' to help you figure out why the backer board should rest on top of the vertical outermost lip of the tub is this: 1) were there shims on the studs when the old tub was removed? 2) was the opening suitable for the 5 foot old tub? The answers are probably going to be (1) NO and (2) YES Don't invite the slow, incremental water-caused undermining of the backer board by shimming the studs and putting the bottom edge of it on the flat (horizontal) part of the tub edge Stud shimming is a pet peeve. It's like an auto mechanic informing you "I put a bunch of washers on the lug bolts of your wheel - now your wheels stick out from the body just a tad" 'thank you' is not the right response here .
You don’t talk too much! The plumbers on my house when it was built didn’t think it was necessary to fasten the tub valve to anything. Every time I turned the water on the spout would move in and out. Had to make a hole in the wall in the next room to fix that. You’d think professionals would know better. I spotted what they were thinking with that shimming right away. Shows watching these videos really pays off!😬
I love green board, easier to work with and as long as you waterproof the proper areas, you are solid! Your tips helped me finish my walk in shower that I did myself.
Just to add to it, I did watch other videos and researched your work. Your thought process is right. Thank you very much. I know it's not much but I do refer you a ton, time work in your area.
Good video. Love to see a block on that tub spout with some straps. I agree totally with stopping at the top of the flange…I’ve seen others try to slide the foam board over the flange and it drives me nuts…water is not going to crawl up a 1” flange. I’ve started framing my niche out larger than I need and dialing it in when I’m one course below so I can end on a full tile…but if you’re good enough at planning it’s unnecessary. Grown to appreciate your approach of using your brain and not blindly following a recommendation
That 1/2" sliver is bogus. You bring the bottom row down 1/2" to resolve it. Or more depending how it affects your top row. Cutting for tubs suck, but Im not believing you had no other option than a sliver on the right side. Based off the video, with all due respect. I'm not there in person.
Agreed. If it’s under 3/8 because you can make the flat side look like 3/16 with the caulk and 3/16 to 3/8 is hardly noticeable and doesn’t look bad and isn’t worth the time cutting the entire bottom row on all walls over but half an inch? Oh yeah ima suck it up and just spend the time cutting my bottom rows. He definitely put the back wall up first without checking and just rolled with it lol. Not gonna lie and say I’ve never fucked around and done that on some flip houses but a homeowner I’m working for I’m definitely extremely thorough with things like that. Edit, nothing against Ole boy here though. Does damn fine work and everyone is capable of making mistakes and overlooking things. I’ve gotten afew good tips over the years from Bob watching his videos. Long time subscriber and only one I agree with 99% of his methods and does it just like my old man taught me to
Yep just asked the same question. Even if you had to have a sliver at the top a lot less noticeable. Cock up springs to mind but we all make mistakes but with Bobs experience this would be a school boy error. Sorry Bob.
So....many ways to skin a cat, in this case ( and all my jobs ) my customer is involved in decisions and options are given, end of the day I don't make them. Having said that, I agreed with the choice they made....not that it's ideal, but the ceiling was a 1/2 off at back of tub, had I done partial cuts on field tile there would be slivers on ALL TILE at top, all slivers would be different sizes and spear shape which would show wonkiness of ceiling. The way it turned out full tiles landed at the top with only a few shaved slightly, THAT to me was ideal. As I mentioned in the video the way I wanted to shim the tub UP on the front couldn't happen, that would've been best. I make no apoligies or take responsibility for other peoples prep, and redoing the setting of tub was not an option, so we do the best we can for what's handed to us. Final opinion of my customer is what's primary to me & both husband and wife were VERY pleased.
Yeah they are both clowns, if you want to watch Comedy and low-level comedy at that then okay, my channel has always been for information for 13 years, those guys just trying to get paid from UA-cam from 3 years ago
@@StarrTilenot only that but they have no clue what they're doing, they do research on UA-cam prior to doing a job, they are actually unskilled and are just acting their way through videos
@timthetoolman9659 yes I noticed that too when they mentioned Isaac, as well as a few other people, they're watching videos to get their knowledge and then go forward with other people's information trying to be entertaining and it's stupid
What is your opinion on how this 'look' will hold up over time? That marble look tile, with black or oil rubbed bronze seems to have become the default or generic style for showers and bathrooms now. Do you think in 30 years they will still look good, or go the way of shag carpet and green appliances?
Honestly we as setters are TIRED of setting it, no style to it any longer....yeah, I think we'll be able to "date" the era it was done in 20-30 years for sure
I've been watching your video's to learn what i don't know and need to know as a DIY'er, I say you do you for explaining and talking...it's your video. I do have a question however. I know it your videos like this one you often use green board as you keep it off the shower pans and tubs plus you Redgard everything, Is purple board ok to use as well?
Love the videos. Can you please clarify if durock cement wall board should sit directly on shower mud pan or should i leave a small gap. If i leave a small gap do i fill with thin set before waterproofing with red guard?
There really isn't a best or worst, it's a matter of preference, I've always used versabond sold at Home Depot, should say lft on it for large-format tile
How come you didn’t shave the tiles on the back wall so you didn’t have to use those sliver cuts to compensate for the tub not being level? Also lowering the niche so there’s full tile at the bottom of it. You know I think your a awesome setter and respect your work so my questions aren’t to be a troll and negative. Just wondering 💭
@@StarrTile Makes sense to me and to be honest I knew you would have a legit answer. I did a job last summer that was prepped and it was a 💩prep job. Sometimes we can only play the cards we’re dealt.
I like denshield, mainly because it's just like sheetrock except that it's pre-waterproof, hard to come by and Metro Atlanta so I don't chase it down but I would prefer it over any other backer board
Question I can't find an answer to. Does every edge of the Durock (which now I hate I picked that) have to meet a stud on the edge to screw into? What do you do if the board stops, meets in the middle of a stud? Urghh I wish I had the money to have hired someone! I'll getter done though if it takes 6 months! I'm still dealing with leveling studs in this old house of mine! So frustrating. Anyone with experience please help?
Yes every edge of your wallboard should hit on a stud, it's the only way that you can fasten both edges.... if either of your pieces don't hit on a stud then you have to cut the pieces to size to make it happen, there are plenty of videos on how to set Durock on shower walls, I just don't believe I have any
ya know when I went to UA-cam University and went through tons of videos to find the right ones to do my bathroom reno's. Your videos were the only ones that really went step by step with detailed explanation so I , a beginner and one time DIY'er , could understand and execute the process well and efficient . I also live in a stilt house so it would be easy to see any leaks from the pan or plumbing and drains .
I am grateful for your videos and expertise , and I don't care how many times I had to ago back and watch in order to understand and get things right .....Thank You
Thank you sir, much appreciated
@@StarrTile Mrs.
@utubbabe1234 sorry, my bad 🙈
Keep talking! Im learning a lot.
Thank You !
Yes, been binge watching Bob for a week now. Learning a lot on what not to do and what to do. About to take out a preformed shower on cement slab and go the all tile route. The talking is good. He speaks what hes thinking which helps a lot.
Great video! You can talk as much as you want because I’m listening.
Thanks so much !
Good on Andy pulling the eject and calling a Pro. Often we don't realize how the builders jerry rigged an area until we open the walls. Overcoming their issues adds a whole 'nother level of complexity. Final result is beautiful. Very tasteful choice of materials. You've added value to your home.
Finally another load of info video, like the long ones best....it's been awhile, glad to see you back ✌🏻👌🏻
I haven't gone anywhere, work is oddly slow last few months...thanks for the compliment
Bob, i've watched lots of your videos. Love them all. The best tip is a large niche. I love it. 13" tall, 32" wide. I get "that bottle holder is so cool" i tile it similar to how you do it. Face frame it with tile.
I'm doing my slab basement, floor is all smashed out. Old cast iron. Drain and toilet. Putting in 36" wide linear drain. Red guard it all. I was about to get a pan liner, not needed on slab basement. It says it's a direct pan material (directions) and paint right onto pvc drain. No fabric needed. I'll put a little fabric soaked in redguard and bolt into the flange. Curb less. Thanks for the content. Thumbs up
Great information thank you and yes keep talking. 👍
Thank you sir 👌🏻
The framing… I would rip everything out and start from scratch.
Really appreciate the time to explain things. Have a happy holiday 😊
Thank you sir and Happy Holidays to you as well
Man your work is awesome, LOVE the result !
Thank you sir !
I agree with you on everything but putting screws thru inside of curb. You've taught me a lot.
Getting ready to start putting my bathroom back together, glad I found your channel
Don't worry about the haters. Do what you do.
Thanks ✌🏻
I agree Bob , A bit of a mind bender to sort this out . All these surprises when you walk on to a job are always a consideration when pricing . It always comes down to the finish work and the paint in order to please a customer . So much goes on behind a wall to get it to look like this true work of art . Beautiful end result , but more important, a superb prep job as you know you can't have one without the other . P. S . keep talking .
Absolutely, sometimes you don't know what you're getting into so always expect the worst.
Thanks for commenting Vaughn 👌🏻✌🏻👍🏻
great job....water pressure was shit but you do an amazing job. thx
Great job and great explanaitions!
Glad you liked it!
Unsquare framing and out of plumb walls seems to be normal.
I got lots of shimming to do.
Great example here.
Indeed ! This one even MORE so !
@@StarrTile great job in showing us how to make things right.
Fuking awesome
Kick ass
If you find yourself adding shims to the studs, or wanting to add shims to the studs, stop what you're doing immediately.
Either find 1 to 3 tile installers to advise you on how they want the backer board positioned, and/or watch YT videos, particularly from this author, because as he points out starting at time 6:30, if you shim the studs just to be able to make the backer board sit on top of the flat part of the tub's border, you invite water seeping upward and into the backer board over time.
A 'sanity check' to help you figure out why the backer board should rest on top of the vertical outermost lip of the tub is this:
1) were there shims on the studs when the old tub was removed?
2) was the opening suitable for the 5 foot old tub?
The answers are probably going to be (1) NO and (2) YES
Don't invite the slow, incremental water-caused undermining of the backer board by shimming the studs and putting the bottom edge of it on the flat (horizontal) part of the tub edge
Stud shimming is a pet peeve. It's like an auto mechanic informing you "I put a bunch of washers on the lug bolts of your wheel - now your wheels stick out from the body just a tad"
'thank you' is not the right response here
.
Excellent comment ! Thank you ✌👍
You don’t talk too much!
The plumbers on my house when it was built didn’t think it was necessary to fasten the tub valve to anything. Every time I turned the water on the spout would move in and out. Had to make a hole in the wall in the next room to fix that. You’d think professionals would know better.
I spotted what they were thinking with that shimming right away. Shows watching these videos really pays off!😬
Yeah I've seen plumbers NOT do pro jobs, it's a shame
I love green board, easier to work with and as long as you waterproof the proper areas, you are solid! Your tips helped me finish my walk in shower that I did myself.
Thank you for the comment, and congrats on your OWN project !
Just to add to it, I did watch other videos and researched your work. Your thought process is right. Thank you very much. I know it's not much but I do refer you a ton, time work in your area.
All considered, beautiful solutions.
Good video. Love to see a block on that tub spout with some straps. I agree totally with stopping at the top of the flange…I’ve seen others try to slide the foam board over the flange and it drives me nuts…water is not going to crawl up a 1” flange. I’ve started framing my niche out larger than I need and dialing it in when I’m one course below so I can end on a full tile…but if you’re good enough at planning it’s unnecessary. Grown to appreciate your approach of using your brain and not blindly following a recommendation
Looking good 👍 👍✌️
Thank you !
Surly if you didn’t start with a full tile off the tub you could of overcome that awful sliver?
Arguably yes, but walls were horrible and would've transfered to every tile at top getting sliver cuts...you have to pick your poison
That 1/2" sliver is bogus. You bring the bottom row down 1/2" to resolve it. Or more depending how it affects your top row. Cutting for tubs suck, but Im not believing you had no other option than a sliver on the right side. Based off the video, with all due respect. I'm not there in person.
Agreed. If it’s under 3/8 because you can make the flat side look like 3/16 with the caulk and 3/16 to 3/8 is hardly noticeable and doesn’t look bad and isn’t worth the time cutting the entire bottom row on all walls over but half an inch? Oh yeah ima suck it up and just spend the time cutting my bottom rows. He definitely put the back wall up first without checking and just rolled with it lol. Not gonna lie and say I’ve never fucked around and done that on some flip houses but a homeowner I’m working for I’m definitely extremely thorough with things like that.
Edit, nothing against Ole boy here though. Does damn fine work and everyone is capable of making mistakes and overlooking things. I’ve gotten afew good tips over the years from Bob watching his videos. Long time subscriber and only one I agree with 99% of his methods and does it just like my old man taught me to
Yep just asked the same question. Even if you had to have a sliver at the top a lot less noticeable. Cock up springs to mind but we all make mistakes but with Bobs experience this would be a school boy error. Sorry Bob.
That’s why you do a ledger board in these situations
So....many ways to skin a cat, in this case ( and all my jobs ) my customer is involved in decisions and options are given, end of the day I don't make them. Having said that, I agreed with the choice they made....not that it's ideal, but the ceiling was a 1/2 off at back of tub, had I done partial cuts on field tile there would be slivers on ALL TILE at top, all slivers would be different sizes and spear shape which would show wonkiness of ceiling. The way it turned out full tiles landed at the top with only a few shaved slightly, THAT to me was ideal. As I mentioned in the video the way I wanted to shim the tub UP on the front couldn't happen, that would've been best. I make no apoligies or take responsibility for other peoples prep, and redoing the setting of tub was not an option, so we do the best we can for what's handed to us.
Final opinion of my customer is what's primary to me & both husband and wife were VERY pleased.
Didn’t realize this channel was out of Nashville. I’m just outside of Memphis
No sir, I am in Atlanta area
That’s why I like watching Stud Pack!! Less complaining and more encouraging’
Yeah they are both clowns, if you want to watch Comedy and low-level comedy at that then okay, my channel has always been for information for 13 years, those guys just trying to get paid from UA-cam from 3 years ago
@@StarrTilenot only that but they have no clue what they're doing, they do research on UA-cam prior to doing a job, they are actually unskilled and are just acting their way through videos
@timthetoolman9659 yes I noticed that too when they mentioned Isaac, as well as a few other people, they're watching videos to get their knowledge and then go forward with other people's information trying to be entertaining and it's stupid
Keep on talking. I'm learning.
Thank you for the comment !
wondering why the back wall is not centred ...
What is your opinion on how this 'look' will hold up over time? That marble look tile, with black or oil rubbed bronze seems to have become the default or generic style for showers and bathrooms now. Do you think in 30 years they will still look good, or go the way of shag carpet and green appliances?
Honestly we as setters are TIRED of setting it, no style to it any longer....yeah, I think we'll be able to "date" the era it was done in 20-30 years for sure
I've been watching your video's to learn what i don't know and need to know as a DIY'er, I say you do you for explaining and talking...it's your video.
I do have a question however. I know it your videos like this one you often use green board as you keep it off the shower pans and tubs plus you Redgard everything, Is purple board ok to use as well?
ANY backer is suitable as long as it's waterproofed
Love the videos. Can you please clarify if durock cement wall board should sit directly on shower mud pan or should i leave a small gap. If i leave a small gap do i fill with thin set before waterproofing with red guard?
Leave about 1'' gap after floor tile is set, don't fill it with anything....look for my video "complete shower build in 30 minutes"
We all know sal and his handbook can go a little crazy sometimes. Wallboard should always go on top of the lip like you said
💯💯💯💯💯
I built my first shower from watching your videos years ago and I’ve built about 12 so far! No issues neither!
That is AWESOME !!👌👍
ya i started watching starrtile, now on bathroom 5 lol
We want to know everything, keep talking, please.
Thank you 👌🏻
What's your favorite backerboard? Was thinking of using cement board but it seems like a pain.
What's the best thin set to use for 12 ×24 tile for shower wall?
There really isn't a best or worst, it's a matter of preference, I've always used versabond sold at Home Depot, should say lft on it for large-format tile
@StarrTile thanx whatever you use or do is the best way🤣
@@StarrTile I always follow your methods for everything ...
Can I work with you? I'm in Atlanta
How come you didn’t shave the tiles on the back wall so you didn’t have to use those sliver cuts to compensate for the tub not being level? Also lowering the niche so there’s full tile at the bottom of it.
You know I think your a awesome setter and respect your work so my questions aren’t to be a troll and negative. Just wondering 💭
Scroll all the way down to
@joshlutes
He basically asked the same question and I answered it there
@@StarrTile
Makes sense to me and to be honest I knew you would have a legit answer.
I did a job last summer that was prepped and it was a 💩prep job. Sometimes we can only play the cards we’re dealt.
is it only 1/16 off because is greenboard and easier to skim flat? I use durock usually and 1/8 is wat I go for
Yes greenboard much easier to skim...and I have applications for cement board but not for tub/shower especially
Sliver cut just wouldn’t work for me, why not just start with a 1/2” cut off first tile row?
Explain that in detail on another comment, scroll down to
@joshlutes
Do you ever use or recommend Denshield if someone wants to use it?
I like denshield, mainly because it's just like sheetrock except that it's pre-waterproof, hard to come by and Metro Atlanta so I don't chase it down but I would prefer it over any other backer board
Question I can't find an answer to. Does every edge of the Durock (which now I hate I picked that) have to meet a stud on the edge to screw into? What do you do if the board stops, meets in the middle of a stud? Urghh I wish I had the money to have hired someone! I'll getter done though if it takes 6 months! I'm still dealing with leveling studs in this old house of mine! So frustrating. Anyone with experience please help?
Yes every edge of your wallboard should hit on a stud, it's the only way that you can fasten both edges.... if either of your pieces don't hit on a stud then you have to cut the pieces to size to make it happen, there are plenty of videos on how to set Durock on shower walls, I just don't believe I have any
I would like to ask a question that might be a little personal.. how much does this cost? From start to finish..
$4500
@@StarrTile thanks.. I think that’s a good price for all that work..
@@StarrTile Well worth it
Pex tools are *way* cheaper than an hour or two of a plumbers time.
🤣🤣🤣
what an aborton......i like to rough out the niche around 15 inches.
What’s up with that water pressure? Was it due to using pex A which reduced the flow?
Water flow due to screen clog in shower head after water was turned off...I normally flush out the lines before attaching head but forgot.
👍
Lol doesn’t know how to prep
Are you in Georgia. Also were you in cartersville today
Yes....and yes
Man I knew I saw you!!