Yep - you do (YOU as in SC not me) have to take notice of what the customer knows (best) about. I just went to a supercheap store, and tried to explain the fitting I need to re-use either my (newest) THULE load bars - or my (way too old original 1970's) Pro-rack bars .. BOTH TYPES using the original open channel "rain-gutter" mounts. The newest load bars being the HIGH ROOF (long leg) Thules - or the very low leg - old Pro-rack legs) - needed some way of "converting them" from gutter mounts - to a concealed flat roof fixed point (modern car) type, where a small U clip - slips under the fixed "inverted U welded in latch plate - inside a recessed top of roof gutter. Well? The two blokes who came out were a very experienced chap - shorter than me & a taller new employee, who were BOTH able to ascertain - yes lift the rubber channel seal a bit to see the welded in place grips - so we all went back inside & one said - you'll need a pack of these, just the extra rubber feet and these J hooks with there 6mm threaded vertical tightening rods, that will convert the older legs into concealed fixed point grips.. $85 for a K537 kit / set of 4 (even though I only want two = one pair, for one load bar .. fitted with DRL's and spot/driving lamps) The other bloke said no - I'd need some new feet too - as the old Gutter grip mounts wouldn't allow attaching the roof grippers, so he went away and came back with a product code of.. SX 025 @ $152 / pair of feet. I told them I'd think about it, and drove home. WOW - $ 237 for a VERY EXPENSIVE WAY - of transferring my original "heavy duty square" steel THULE load bars (or of converting the even older light weight Prorack rectangular bars of the 1970's) But wait - there's more. WHEN HOME - I did a "search" on Super-cheap's website - for those two product codes. ? NEITHER came up under THULE One came up as a concealed roof clamp for PRORACK (for the modern oval type bars with very wide mounting whisper feet) The OTHER - being the leg kits.. RHINO How the hell is either the THULE Square load bars - or the older lightweight prorack bars - supposed to be "held" securely with RHINO legs - if the KIT I NEED is only using a MODERN foot fitment of the OVAL whisper bar, that allows the use of a J hook grip kit? For real.. Yet that's exactly what your lads (likely lads) told me I needed, after LOOKING at the fixed point concealed fitments on the roof of my vehicle. ????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Maybe NEXT TIME - I'll take the actual BARS into them kitted out with ALL the lights on the HEAVY DUTY THULE SQAURE BARS, as well as the cruddy lightweight, original gutter grip pro-rack bars, with their "across bar" underside, slots, for a sliding clamp which engages with the gutter underside plate - to grip the underside of these old load bars.. NEITHER of which - would come anywhere near fitting - the THULE clamp kits, or the (other branded) Rhino feet? Maybe instead of concentrating on making a video entitled A Guide to Roof Racks // Supercheap Auto You'd be better equipped to TEACH your store pals, what the difference is, between different BRANDS as well as teaching them the difference between LONG LEG gutter grip mounts, and their oval modern equivalents, that DO NOT INTEGRATE with each other? It would appear to me - that I'd be better off, CONVERTING the old gutter grip feet, by the mutilation of a U channel that I welded onto the original under-channel grips, and bastardize a way of fitting my original load bars - instead of wasting over $2oo on fitments that WILL NOT assimilate with each other, not fit the load bars I have.? So - what I think I'll do - very cheaply - is grab some angle iron and WELD THAT to the outside of the THULE gutter grip's mechanism, to allow me to cut off the bit that goes UNDER the rain gutter, as I need a "hook" that faces the side of the vehicle not towards it's center. Then by sliding the angle iron under the welded bar on the vehicle's hidden channel along the top of the flat roof, I'll be able to re-clamp the Thule heavy walled, extra long through bar / square bar (with it's original tall gutter grip feet clamp), as well as having it's original inside the gutter wide-leg foot, sitting inside the concealed gutter of the vehicle, as that way, I don't have to worry about the bar tipping over (if just a J hook was used), plus I won't have to worry about the square bar being correctly GRIPPED TIGHT when the foot's clamp is tightened, nor will the angle iron welded to that clamp, slip inwards as the LEG will stop it moving towards the vehicle center. That way - for the cost of some electricity & maybe half an arc stick, plus the time to be using the angle grinder to "cut off" a couple of suitably short pieces of angle iron that will fit under the in-roof J clip mounts Oh & as well as cutting off the inwards facing (original) under-gutter THULE clamp plate - I'll have me a fixed roof concealed channel fitment - at what cost ? The price of some swearing and a burnt hand from welding slag, oh & a hot cup of coffee that my missus will make for me - after I've done it all myself. Done - like a dogs dinner - oh and maybe a can of black paint to seal the deal after welding.
A different store, as then you'd get the right brand of load bar with the CORRECT style of FEET and fitments, to suit the awning (and that also fits your vehicle too)
Where the step involving the wife coming out every 30 seconds to complain that you’re taking to long and the kids are screaming in the background? I need a solution!
@@urnie4843 Haha - because then they can say - oh the one we used wasn't a car - it was a truck with gutter grips, you'll need a very expensive extra fitment kit - for your car Or? Sorry we don't stock that item, so you'll need to buy a different style - but as you chose the first one, we can't take it back - it's not our fault..
Make sure the sods sell you the RIGHT KIT (brand as well as type) otherwise, you will have say a Rhino "fitting kit", that won't fit your THULE feet - or Prorack too - if you have either the OLD "thin-walled rectangular bar models (with slots across the underside to allow the TAG at the top of the feet to "grip" them, or you may also find that they have given you the newer different shaped load bar feet - that ONLY fit a more square (different measurement) load bar - .. But get this - I had two SC lads, look at my concealed roof fixed points - and were told - THULE LOAD BARS AND GUTTER GRIP FEET, or old type 1970's pro-rack bars and gutter grip feet .. To be told I need the J hooks from the THULE kits as well as RHINO feet? Just as wel;l I know that all three brands WILL NOT INTERCHANGE between the fitments of the other brands - or I would have wasted over $200 on shyte - for nothing..
It is one that goes RIGHT THROUGH the bar grip, to allow a longer bar to extend each side of the vehicle, instead of being a short bar - held only between the enclosing feet - which allows such things as a small overhead crane to lift cargo &/or wheelchairs etc., into the side doors of vans, or to have a longer bar - with such things as an awning or such - that is held outside the full width of your vehicle. Maybe where you need a side/light - alley lamp - to shine down outside the vehicle, for seeing your way through tight spaces at night, without jamming yourself in between two trees etc., ? These have FEET that allow the bar to slide right through the feet, (poking out either side a long way) without hindering their length, yet have feet that grip a narrower fitment on the roof of the vehicle.
What about variations in the car roof fittings, such as factory tracks?
Yep - you do (YOU as in SC not me) have to take notice of what the customer knows (best) about.
I just went to a supercheap store, and tried to explain the fitting I need to re-use either my (newest) THULE load bars - or my (way too old original 1970's) Pro-rack bars .. BOTH TYPES using the original open channel "rain-gutter" mounts.
The newest load bars being the HIGH ROOF (long leg) Thules - or the very low leg - old Pro-rack legs) - needed some way of "converting them" from gutter mounts - to a concealed flat roof fixed point (modern car) type, where a small U clip - slips under the fixed "inverted U welded in latch plate - inside a recessed top of roof gutter.
Well?
The two blokes who came out were a very experienced chap - shorter than me & a taller new employee, who were BOTH able to ascertain - yes lift the rubber channel seal a bit to see the welded in place grips - so we all went back inside & one said - you'll need a pack of these, just the extra rubber feet and these J hooks with there 6mm threaded vertical tightening rods, that will convert the older legs into concealed fixed point grips..
$85 for a K537 kit / set of 4 (even though I only want two = one pair, for one load bar .. fitted with DRL's and spot/driving lamps)
The other bloke said no - I'd need some new feet too - as the old Gutter grip mounts wouldn't allow attaching the roof grippers, so he went away and came back with a product code of..
SX 025 @ $152 / pair of feet.
I told them I'd think about it, and drove home.
WOW - $ 237 for a VERY EXPENSIVE WAY - of transferring my original "heavy duty square" steel THULE load bars
(or of converting the even older light weight Prorack rectangular bars of the 1970's)
But wait - there's more.
WHEN HOME - I did a "search" on Super-cheap's website - for those two product codes.
?
NEITHER came up under THULE
One came up as a concealed roof clamp for PRORACK (for the modern oval type bars with very wide mounting whisper feet)
The OTHER - being the leg kits..
RHINO
How the hell is either the THULE Square load bars - or the older lightweight prorack bars - supposed to be "held" securely with RHINO legs - if the KIT I NEED is only using a MODERN foot fitment of the OVAL whisper bar, that allows the use of a J hook grip kit?
For real..
Yet that's exactly what your lads (likely lads) told me I needed, after LOOKING at the fixed point concealed fitments on the roof of my vehicle.
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Maybe NEXT TIME - I'll take the actual BARS into them kitted out with ALL the lights on the HEAVY DUTY THULE SQAURE BARS, as well as the cruddy lightweight, original gutter grip pro-rack bars, with their "across bar" underside, slots, for a sliding clamp which engages with the gutter underside plate - to grip the underside of these old load bars..
NEITHER of which - would come anywhere near fitting - the THULE clamp kits, or the (other branded) Rhino feet?
Maybe instead of concentrating on making a video entitled
A Guide to Roof Racks // Supercheap Auto
You'd be better equipped to TEACH your store pals, what the difference is, between different BRANDS as well as teaching them the difference between LONG LEG gutter grip mounts, and their oval modern equivalents, that DO NOT INTEGRATE with each other?
It would appear to me - that I'd be better off, CONVERTING the old gutter grip feet, by the mutilation of a U channel that I welded onto the original under-channel grips, and bastardize a way of fitting my original load bars - instead of wasting over $2oo on fitments that WILL NOT assimilate with each other, not fit the load bars I have.?
So - what I think I'll do - very cheaply - is grab some angle iron and WELD THAT to the outside of the THULE gutter grip's mechanism, to allow me to cut off the bit that goes UNDER the rain gutter, as I need a "hook" that faces the side of the vehicle not towards it's center.
Then by sliding the angle iron under the welded bar on the vehicle's hidden channel along the top of the flat roof, I'll be able to re-clamp the Thule heavy walled, extra long through bar / square bar (with it's original tall gutter grip feet clamp), as well as having it's original inside the gutter wide-leg foot, sitting inside the concealed gutter of the vehicle, as that way, I don't have to worry about the bar tipping over (if just a J hook was used), plus I won't have to worry about the square bar being correctly GRIPPED TIGHT when the foot's clamp is tightened, nor will the angle iron welded to that clamp, slip inwards as the LEG will stop it moving towards the vehicle center.
That way - for the cost of some electricity & maybe half an arc stick, plus the time to be using the angle grinder to "cut off" a couple of suitably short pieces of angle iron that will fit under the in-roof J clip mounts
Oh & as well as cutting off the inwards facing (original) under-gutter THULE clamp plate - I'll have me a fixed roof concealed channel fitment - at what cost ?
The price of some swearing and a burnt hand from welding slag, oh & a hot cup of coffee that my missus will make for me - after I've done it all myself.
Done - like a dogs dinner - oh and maybe a can of black paint to seal the deal after welding.
Get a life wtf
jfc mate
any hidden *Off road* ratings that people need to know about?
Thank you
what would I use if want to fit an awning onto it
A different store, as then you'd get the right brand of load bar with the CORRECT style of FEET and fitments, to suit the awning (and that also fits your vehicle too)
Where the step involving the wife coming out every 30 seconds to complain that you’re taking to long and the kids are screaming in the background? I need a solution!
A car roof rack video that never shows a car.
haha why would you show the car ? ?
@@urnie4843 Haha - because then they can say - oh the one we used wasn't a car - it was a truck with gutter grips, you'll need a very expensive extra fitment kit - for your car
Or?
Sorry we don't stock that item, so you'll need to buy a different style - but as you chose the first one, we can't take it back - it's not our fault..
@@QUIX4U good point there
no $80.00 fitting kit, sweet dog
I could have read a blithering article so where was the practical demonstration lol
This is crap. I just bought roof racks from Supercheap and I have a car with roof rails and guess what! I need a fitting kit!
Make sure the sods sell you the RIGHT KIT (brand as well as type) otherwise, you will have say a Rhino "fitting kit", that won't fit your THULE feet - or Prorack too - if you have either the OLD "thin-walled rectangular bar models (with slots across the underside to allow the TAG at the top of the feet to "grip" them, or you may also find that they have given you the newer different shaped load bar feet - that ONLY fit a more square (different measurement) load bar - ..
But get this - I had two SC lads, look at my concealed roof fixed points - and were told - THULE LOAD BARS AND GUTTER GRIP FEET, or old type 1970's pro-rack bars and gutter grip feet ..
To be told I need the J hooks from the THULE kits as well as RHINO feet?
Just as wel;l I know that all three brands WILL NOT INTERCHANGE between the fitments of the other brands - or I would have wasted over $200 on shyte - for nothing..
Umm. What's a "through bar"?
The through bar is 60kg rated steel length between 2 fittings
It is one that goes RIGHT THROUGH the bar grip, to allow a longer bar to extend each side of the vehicle, instead of being a short bar - held only between the enclosing feet - which allows such things as a small overhead crane to lift cargo &/or wheelchairs etc., into the side doors of vans, or to have a longer bar - with such things as an awning or such - that is held outside the full width of your vehicle.
Maybe where you need a side/light - alley lamp - to shine down outside the vehicle, for seeing your way through tight spaces at night, without jamming yourself in between two trees etc., ?
These have FEET that allow the bar to slide right through the feet, (poking out either side a long way) without hindering their length, yet have feet that grip a narrower fitment on the roof of the vehicle.
Do you have instructions video on how to install a Pro rack Through bar with the k508 kit onto a Mitsibishi Asx with rails