I bought that saw's predecessor (Evolution RAGE2 TCT) back in 2007 to assist me in building a steel framed summerhouse using 50x50x4mm RHS as you showed, and believe me it was well worth the £179.99 investment at the time,What a beast!! One thing I did, even though it isn't necessary, was to add a spot of oil to each cut. As a result, and after many hundreds of cuts, I have just replaced the original tct blade (at a cost of £53!!) But highly recommend this saw. It really does what it's supposed to ...and fast! (just an after thought having read some comments, mine has a cast steel base and a really storng vice, that holds any workpiece rigidly)
Great demonstration Stuart, thanks. I appreciate the honest coverage of cost and best method of use. I wouldn’t hesitate buying or borrowing one of these for a single project where I thought it would save shoddy or risky work, or the expenditure of more effort than needed. You’re a good ambassador for tool brands so I hope they throw plenty your way to keep showing us. Cheers.
Nowadays this type of saw is the only saw I see on site at second fix stage. Secondary structure guys are especially fond of dewalt for some reason. Loving the new channel by the way. All the best from another fellow engineer.
Thank you Stuart, Like yourself I'd always used the abrasive disc type saw for cutting steel, they are really noisy, spray sparks everywhere and if you put too much pressure on the saw during the cut, you end up with a distorted cut line, especially with mitre cuts, although I don't know why this is. I've always wanted a cold-cut saw, however at the price that they command, I can't justify the outlay for something that might get used 4-5 times a year. Thanks for a great video.
Wow that is a bit of a beast! Nice review Stuart. By comparison I recently needed to cut some steel - 20mm steel conduit. I got a Sabrecut multi-material blade from Amazon for my 10" Erbauer mitre saw and it worked a treat! Not as easy for sure - and a bit of a faff getting a good enough grip on 20mm tubes with clamps to stop them rotating mid cut. But it worked and a viable option for someone who only needs such a thing occasionally. Ironically I only thought of trying this because my first mitre saw (many moons ago) was an Evolution which came with multi-material blades!
I've cut similar to the plate and box section on a £60 Evolution Chop / Mitre saw and a slightly more expensive sliding mitre saw both with their multi material blades installed which are really good. Obviously they much smaller and less powerful devices so you wouldn't attempt the beam but a wood mitre saw that can cut the odd bit of metal is a lot more useful for the average DIY-er.
Stuart, I've lusted after this saw setup for a couple of years. As you can tell I haven't got one, and it doesn't look like i'll be getting one at all, due to the size of the thing! It will have to live in the mind as a "must have", until I get the workshop I want! That won't be coming either, as I live in a rented flat, and can't afford to rent a garage (no mains) either! But Almost every YT'er that deals with metal, has one of these! That is where I first saw them, and every time I see them, I want one! They are superb and if you "need" to just chop some wood - It doesn't know its there. quite good finish too.
Thanks Stuart, that's a very impressive piece of kit, and well worth the money if you're doing much of that kind of steel fabrication. I've got one of the smaller Evolution multi-material saws and that's proved very useful and sufficient for my purposes !
I wish I'd had one back in my metal working days. The speed accuracy and quality of cut is quite amazing compared to other methods. A hefty price tag but worth it if you cut lots of metal.
Good demonstration and Evolution has built a good rep for getting things done. What disappoints me is the accessories/clamps that don't look professionally well engineered, If I bought one I would have to properly engineer those bits to take out the Chinese slop.
A proper beast, but a bit too expensive for my occasional need. Would it be possible to use a steel cutting blade in a, say, DeWalt sliding miter saw ?
Was there a specific reason why you made the cut and waited for the blade to stop before raising the blade? Its surprising just how easy the saw appears to cut through the various metals 😮
Much less heat is generated by the saw which has sharp tungsten carbide teeth, compared with a grinder. Also, it's the chips that get hot, not the workpiece. With a grinder the removed particles are tiny and get hot enough to burn, producing the sparks. The chips here are much bigger.
Would you know if I can use a cold cut blade on my old metal chop saw . I do the occasional metal work on my farm so can’t justify throwing a perfectly good machine
Stuart, do you think that front clamping mechanism would fit the standard multi material Evolution saws? they look rather good to me. the clamps at the back look to be the same (if blue rather than orange)
@@davedaniels8211 Good point. That is why on engineering cutting tools flood cooling is used to wash away the swarf. I would have thought that a non-combustible suction system could be designed, it would be better than any rogue sparks around the workshop. Using grinder/cutters generate a huge amount of sparks that are invariably directed to the operator, which is a situation that has to be managed.
@ProperDIY-ToolsandStuff I can understand that to test the initial set up, but once you know that the presets are accurate, wouldn't it be quicker to set it to one side and then just flip the wood or metal? Changing the cutting angle from side to side introduces the possibilty of making a mistake.
Feel sorry for the girlie Americans with their 120v low wattage sockets. They can only dream of running 3k watts to a socket. Come on America, keep up and maybe you will be as productive 😛
Great £730 for someting you wil ever use once in youre lifetime for home usage and a professional have other stuff to cut than that toy , like the Cold Saw w Stand METEX Industrial 350mm. 🙄🙄👎👎👎👎
If you've got $4,000 to spare and are only ever going to use the saw in one position the Metex might do it for you. But for 1/4 of the money you get a bigger blade, bigger motor, more versatile clamping set up and a saw that's light enough to put in the van. I think that's why they sell so many of them in the USA.
The questions you should be asking are "does this do what I need it to?" and "will this pay for itself with the time it saves me?" - my nailgun was really expensive but I'm never going to spend 10 minutes nailing in a door casing by hand ever again. Just because you don't have a use for it doesn't mean nobody else will, otherwise why would they sell it?
I bought that saw's predecessor (Evolution RAGE2 TCT) back in 2007 to assist me in building a steel framed summerhouse using 50x50x4mm RHS as you showed, and believe me it was well worth the £179.99 investment at the time,What a beast!! One thing I did, even though it isn't necessary, was to add a spot of oil to each cut. As a result, and after many hundreds of cuts, I have just replaced the original tct blade (at a cost of £53!!) But highly recommend this saw. It really does what it's supposed to ...and fast! (just an after thought having read some comments, mine has a cast steel base and a really storng vice, that holds any workpiece rigidly)
Like this channel. I thought it was a good addition to your normal channel but it’s proving better than I thought it would be
Great demonstration Stuart, thanks. I appreciate the honest coverage of cost and best method of use. I wouldn’t hesitate buying or borrowing one of these for a single project where I thought it would save shoddy or risky work, or the expenditure of more effort than needed. You’re a good ambassador for tool brands so I hope they throw plenty your way to keep showing us. Cheers.
Nowadays this type of saw is the only saw I see on site at second fix stage. Secondary structure guys are especially fond of dewalt for some reason. Loving the new channel by the way. All the best from another fellow engineer.
DeWalt is just a fancy name for Black and Decker.
Thank you Stuart,
Like yourself I'd always used the abrasive disc type saw for cutting steel, they are really noisy, spray sparks everywhere and if you put too much pressure on the saw during the cut, you end up with a distorted cut line, especially with mitre cuts, although I don't know why this is.
I've always wanted a cold-cut saw, however at the price that they command, I can't justify the outlay for something that might get used 4-5 times a year.
Thanks for a great video.
Wow that is a bit of a beast! Nice review Stuart. By comparison I recently needed to cut some steel - 20mm steel conduit. I got a Sabrecut multi-material blade from Amazon for my 10" Erbauer mitre saw and it worked a treat! Not as easy for sure - and a bit of a faff getting a good enough grip on 20mm tubes with clamps to stop them rotating mid cut. But it worked and a viable option for someone who only needs such a thing occasionally. Ironically I only thought of trying this because my first mitre saw (many moons ago) was an Evolution which came with multi-material blades!
I've cut similar to the plate and box section on a £60 Evolution Chop / Mitre saw and a slightly more expensive sliding mitre saw both with their multi material blades installed which are really good. Obviously they much smaller and less powerful devices so you wouldn't attempt the beam but a wood mitre saw that can cut the odd bit of metal is a lot more useful for the average DIY-er.
What a super piece of machinery to have in your tool collection. Thanks for sharing.
Stuart, I've lusted after this saw setup for a couple of years. As you can tell I haven't got one, and it doesn't look like i'll be getting one at all, due to the size of the thing! It will have to live in the mind as a "must have", until I get the workshop I want! That won't be coming either, as I live in a rented flat, and can't afford to rent a garage (no mains) either! But Almost every YT'er that deals with metal, has one of these! That is where I first saw them, and every time I see them, I want one! They are superb and if you "need" to just chop some wood - It doesn't know its there. quite good finish too.
Hi Stuart….. That’s some piece of kit…it cut through that H beam like a knife through butter with very little sparks. Well impressed with it.👍
Thanks Stuart, that's a very impressive piece of kit, and well worth the money if you're doing much of that kind of steel fabrication. I've got one of the smaller Evolution multi-material saws and that's proved very useful and sufficient for my purposes !
impressive piece of kit
Definitely on the shopping list.
I wish I'd had one back in my metal working days. The speed accuracy and quality of cut is quite amazing compared to other methods. A hefty price tag but worth it if you cut lots of metal.
Couldn't agree more!
Impressive👍
That was good but it looked scary to me thanks for your new channel Graham g
The kickback on those things is brutal if there's any way the thing you're cutting can possibly flex.
love the channel steve. just amazing how it cuts cold.
Steve 😆😅🤣😂
Steve 😂😂😂
Very nice saw
Unbelievable...
Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Good demonstration and Evolution has built a good rep for getting things done. What disappoints me is the accessories/clamps that don't look professionally well engineered, If I bought one I would have to properly engineer those bits to take out the Chinese slop.
That is amazing!
A proper beast, but a bit too expensive for my occasional need. Would it be possible to use a steel cutting blade in a, say, DeWalt sliding miter saw ?
Not sure many DIYers would find a use for this. Sort of thing Ed China or Dom Chinea might use!!
Was there a specific reason why you made the cut and waited for the blade to stop before raising the blade?
Its surprising just how easy the saw appears to cut through the various metals 😮
Raising the saw while it's still spinning can fling the unsupported piece upwards as the teeth can catch . Bit like a table saw kick back .
So why does the metal stay cold after cutting? Also didn't seem to create any sparks.
I will never buy one, but what a tool 😂
Much less heat is generated by the saw which has sharp tungsten carbide teeth, compared with a grinder. Also, it's the chips that get hot, not the workpiece. With a grinder the removed particles are tiny and get hot enough to burn, producing the sparks. The chips here are much bigger.
You need Evolution's magnetic chip wand to help keep things clean.
Would you know if I can use a cold cut blade on my old metal chop saw . I do the occasional metal work on my farm so can’t justify throwing a perfectly good machine
Like a hot knife through butter!
Stuart, do you think that front clamping mechanism would fit the standard multi material Evolution saws? they look rather good to me. the clamps at the back look to be the same (if blue rather than orange)
Can you add a suction port at the rear of the box for those bits of swarf?
Maybe a future video there!
A suction port could suck in sparks which is why none is supplied
@@davedaniels8211 Good point. That is why on engineering cutting tools flood cooling is used to wash away the swarf. I would have thought that a non-combustible suction system could be designed, it would be better than any rogue sparks around the workshop.
Using grinder/cutters generate a huge amount of sparks that are invariably directed to the operator, which is a situation that has to be managed.
@@clivewilliams3661 fast flowing air (oxygen) and sparks are never a good combination 👍 ☺
Cutting edge stuff
I see what you did there
Why did you adjust the saw angle instead of leaving it at 45° on the right and just flipping the job over and sliding it up to the blade?
Accuracy!
You need to cut from both sides of the preset indents to check for accuracy of the saw.
@ProperDIY-ToolsandStuff I can understand that to test the initial set up, but once you know that the presets are accurate, wouldn't it be quicker to set it to one side and then just flip the wood or metal? Changing the cutting angle from side to side introduces the possibilty of making a mistake.
Why did you cut out the part when it vibrates like hell? (after 12:18)
Why did you make two cuts just turn the longer piece over to get your 90 degree joint.
Because that doesn’t prove the accuracy of the indents. To check how good the preset indents are you need to cut from both sides.
Feel sorry for the girlie Americans with their 120v low wattage sockets. They can only dream of running 3k watts to a socket. Come on America, keep up and maybe you will be as productive 😛
That tool makes me a bit unconfortable...
Great £730 for someting you wil ever use once in youre lifetime for home usage and a professional have other stuff to cut than that toy , like the Cold Saw w Stand METEX Industrial 350mm. 🙄🙄👎👎👎👎
You kinda missed the point of the video.
I don't think the Metex is available in the UK.
And you never heard of online ordering ? 🙄🙄👎👎
If you've got $4,000 to spare and are only ever going to use the saw in one position the Metex might do it for you. But for 1/4 of the money you get a bigger blade, bigger motor, more versatile clamping set up and a saw that's light enough to put in the van. I think that's why they sell so many of them in the USA.
The questions you should be asking are "does this do what I need it to?" and "will this pay for itself with the time it saves me?" - my nailgun was really expensive but I'm never going to spend 10 minutes nailing in a door casing by hand ever again. Just because you don't have a use for it doesn't mean nobody else will, otherwise why would they sell it?