I have a 130MAX. I’ve had some of the same issues. If you are trying to level the track system with a bubble level I can tell you from experience it will never happen. I use a transit or laser level. I would also make a more substantial bed for those legs to rest on rather than having it sitting on firewood rounds, other wise you’ll have to re level the mill every time you put a log on. 100% use diesel. You will only need a drip every second or two. The blades stay very very clean, won’t have to worry about it freezing, and it seems to run better through the system. Too much “lube” will throw a blade every time. Cut a half inch or so off the clear tubing and put it on the “lube” Zirk. You won’t need a clamp and it works just fine. Hope this helps
I just set up my 130 max on trailer last month - and it is working great. You learn best through trail & error but It's so awesome being able to cut your lumber. I don't agree with this video at all. Either the guy bought a lemon or he works for Woodland's competition (clandestinely). I set up the battery (electric start )- and it starts up every time and the Kohler engine cuts the logs, so I don't know what the f@k he's babbling about. and I'm a Chartered Accountant by trade and was able to figure it out, although it took a while with assembly (weekend warrior) and leveling / square but i finally got it. I watched the wrong video - as I was looking for expert advice on milling.@@thecoursinfamily
Interesting video. Seems like your complaints are based on mechanical ignorance and poor setup vs. engineering. You probably wouldn't have been happy with a Timberking.
My neighbor has this exact mill . He set it up dead level and added extra support . He made sure everything worked properly .adjusted and fettled until perfect. Adjusted spark gap and carb adjustment. Just the difference in some men. He cuts true timber and never heard him curse once. Take a long hard look at yourself buddy.
It is obvious you don't have a clue as to what it takes to set up the system. No the bunks don't deform with a heavy log so how much lumber have you really sawn? I have sawn 24" Red Oak with no problems.
I have the 130max, dont have any issues you talk about, lots of complaining without understanding. On the blade lube grease fitting add a 1" piece of fuel tube. Your carb low speed jet is misadjusted. Rotate you recoil so the pull is toward your throttle. Guess you could always spend $50K on what you believe is a great sawmill.
Oh good, the guy with low standards has arrived. a) I tried every combination of hose and clamp long before making this video, it doesn't work. You still can't aim it worth crap and the hose never stayed on no matter how I clamped it. b) Not only is that a great way to void warranty but it has nothing to do with the popping out the exhaust. c) If you actually own one of these mills then you should know how much stuff is in the way of pulling it on the other side. Guess you could always go brag about how great cheap Chinese garbage masquerading as Canadian quality is.
I have a 130 Max and I have only run water and have not had a problem throwing blades. The blade guide is a waste of time except to ensure the water gets on the blade closer to the point of cutting. The yellow guard was falling off so I just removed it and do not miss it. I tension the blade to 23 foot pounds with a torque wrench and that seems to work great for me. The spring lock on the crank is crap has never worked correctly for me. As for the engine the label seems to be backward for running and stop. The idle can be adjusted and it would save you the tie back on the throttle. Of note I have let this thing sit for a couple months and with the battery in it , it just fired right up. As for popping I have only had that with 87 fuel. When I run 93 it does not back fire on me. The door clasps at the bottom literally fell of within the first 3 hours of use. Bottom line, for the price I think unless you want to import directly off Alibaba the price was fair. The fact the rails flex and the bunks do not allow for good support at the end of the cut makes for some bad wavy / tapered cuts so you just have to plan for that.
Some kind of detergent is necessary for cutting pitchy wood like balsam fir, I may end up trying diesel since no amount of soap will let my blade stay on. My yellow guard likes to fall off if I don't tighten it with hulk strength as well. I've played with the idle like crazy, there doesn't seem to be a happy place, if it's high enough to start then when it's warm it idles so high that it's partially engaging the clutch, which would burn it out quick. Mine pops even with ethanol free 94 octane. These engines clearly have quality control issues, I'm sure some run okay and then others are garbage like mine. Sucks about the door clasps, the ones they did mount on mine weren't mounted in the right place so I redid them and put blue loctite on the threads, so far they're still in there. Thing is, it takes me a long time to save up 6g, so I expect to get something that isn't hot garbage for that money
I can tell you the engine problem you are having is the valve adjustment is crucial. The number one symptom is the backfiring and hard to start. I have the HM 126 with a 14hp. And all I cut with it is Hardwood. I understand your frustration with the Kohler. But in fairness all overhead Valve engines which is practically every 4 stroke now will eventually go through that. Valve lash is your enemy here, I believe anyway, goodluck
Thanks so much for the video, I think it gives a very important perspective on the mill! I have a Hm126 myself and I only have 15 hours on it. I have been fighting with in from the beginning because the blades keeps coming off (I destroyed 10 or so already). I think for what the mill costs it is a good mill (if you really think about it.. of how many parts there are and everything). But there are so many flaws.. you need to be a mechanic and need to enjoy tinkering on that stuff (I simply have a hard time finding time for it and/or simply don't enjoy it and would rather mill logs than fix machinery). I think that I will try to fix my tracking issues and mill the logs up that I have and sell it. If I were to ever buy one again it would be a Woodmizer I think. But a new lt35 hydraulic is 50k now so I don't think it makes any sense anymore.. maybe just buy lumber in the future.
I got AHM126I bought it 20 fifthe only thing I have wrong with it When I put too big of a log on and I bent the frame but it made my own frame And it works great I have no issues other than that So maybe you just got a bad bad One So stay safe stay healthy stay happy you'll need it Does have a good day and will catch you on another one
The biggest concern to me is the uneven rails, if in fact you manage to get other things corrected one way or another, the most important thing is true sized, straight, usable lumber. I've been using a thing called "woodbug" designed and built by a fellow on Vancouver Island, good, but because it is a chainsaw milling appl. so much wasted wood, However quite true lumber.
Hi, i mostly agreee with the mentioned points... but not about child labor... yes, it needs a lot of adjustments to make it work properly. What i want to add - at least what i see on my HM130Max - the post system i dont like, the teflon pushings are crap - there is always play in it - you cant adjust it to be firmly- if so they wear out quickly. So the head is always in a shake during cuts. As you said, the head isn't stable at all - it wiggles like a dog tail. My engin starts like a charm - first pull or after 1 sec of e-start - it idles... bangs and pops at the end - yes it does - i dont care about it. It vibrates like hell - maybe some rubber vib-absorbers woold be good. Another thing to be mentioned - the quality of the paint it bad, very bad- i have it covered with rost everywhere - paint is coming of in big chuncks after 2 years... I dont like the throttle at all, you dont get the full revs - no matter how you are adjusting the cable. Rails - yes i agree- this is a fail. I was loading a oak log with the traktor on it - the rails gets bend so easy - but the good thing is - with a sludge hammer - they are bend back quickly. ;-) no to be honest - the rail system is crap. I never had thrown of any band yet... bearings are fine, clutch is fine etc... tensioning system is also fine - very basic but it works. The hight adjustment with cables needs to be adjusted time to time, thats fine, i dont like the handle - it takes awefull long time and muscle power to get from top to bottom and bottom to top position. The measurement ruler are junk - dont use them. After 2 years out in the elements they shrink and the readings are wrong - so the thickness of the boards is wrong as well - what a bloody nightmare! I glued a std. steal ruler to it and not everything is in size again. Took me a while to figure that out. At the hm130 the banks are covered with stainless steal so it does not react with oak wookd for example- thats good. The librication system needs some modifications to but the lub where it belongs - but this is an easy fixe. All over, yes - its a cheap machinery made out of chinesium in china - but as we are in europe, its metric which is good (not imperial - because of not having and imperial tools), its cheap which is also good and for my purpose as a starter in cutting lumber its a good (enoght), cheap entry to make, to learn and realy know what i want to have, what works for me and what i realy need to look at buying a better bandsaw once the next time. I didnt want to invest 15k€ to figure out its not my hobby any more, i dont like it or i dont need it anymore - so i have invested 4k€ to learn and make mistakes and bend things up etc... and at the end, with some adjustments, modifications, etc... you will get the job done quite well... Summary: Yes, cheap chinesium from china, yes, lots of down sides of the mill but as entry, for learning and starting, getting some projects done - its worth the money. With a bit of fiddeling you will get it working somehow good enought to make some decent lumber. Would i buy this saw if i want to enter lumber business professionally - NO. Would i buy this saw again - NO because i have already learned so many things what i like, what i want to have and whats important for my way of working - would i recommand the saw for someone who wants to try it out and start learning on a small budge - YES. Am I happy with it - YES - for now. Remember - you get what you pay floks. UPDATE: One thing i forgot to mention - the extension blade guide - this thing is most likely the main reason why this saw is not cutting properly. This is realy bad desing and you cant adjust it to be sturdy to guid the blade - best option is to keep it always way in and fix it in place a good as possible. Thinking of it - i think thats even the worst part of the whole sawmill. Thats a fail in design, construction and material choice... a total loss.
I bought the HM130 in 2016. I can't complain. I have had the blade flying off and couldn't figure it out. Called Woodland and found I had turned up the water drip to far cutting white pine thinking I needed more lube with the high amount of pitch in these logs. That was hydroing the band right off the wheel. Slowed the water and haven't thrown a band since. The only bearings that have gone bad are the ones behind the band. I use ether windshield washer or RV pink antifreeze for lube and it seems to be hard on those bearings. I can tell you when they quit turning you quit cutting straight cuts to the point of busting bands. I'm with you on the needle valve on the bottom of the lube tank. What a piece of crap! Mine has a hand valve that has to be turned on at the start of every cut and it went bad. Maybe the type lube I use. Carburetor went bad and found you can't buy a rebuild kit for it. Had to buy a new carb at the staggering cost of $19.00 shipped to the house. I didn't have any problem leveling my mill but I mounted mine on a steel trailer. I feel the clutch starting to get weak but after cutting 10's of thousands of bf of lumber I don't see any reason to complain. I've replaced the tire once and the belt once. When it's tuned in I cut 1/8 and 1/16" venerer all the time as I'm a woodworker and need wood cut this thick quite often. It's a $5000.00 entry level mill and I feel I got what I paid for. Now if I was going to open a sawmill for profit I would go with a Cook.
You complain a lot without doing a simple fix. Your base is a joke So no wonder it's all over the place, The complain about the drip system, It's sad that you're not able to get in line a quarter turn valve to control the flow and 2" line to get it on the right spot on the blade. Do some adjustments to the wheels so the blade doesn't jump off. I got hm130max, and with some simple fixes, i got a great machine for over 3 years
I completely agree with you very same problems except engine problem. Complete junk,but for 4k probably nothing better. Got woodmizer much better go for
HM 130 It's not a high production mill but i think it's a good hobby mill, i put mine together myself have not had any problems to speak of, i didnt like the log scale i took it off ,most trouble i had was my lube clogging up.
I have the hm 122 and I agree with a lot of what u said but my 7hp kohler has been the best engine ever the thing cranks first pull 80% of the time and never takes more than 2 pulls it’s been a great engine. I hate the clutch I think it’s weak and slips, I hate the track as u stated it’s warped, I hate the belts, and I don’t like the cradle frame. If I could go back I’d buy the woodmizer and spend a tad more money
Maybe I did just get a lemon of an engine and they don't want to deal with it. Or maybe the 14hp is different than the 7hp, who knows. I'm glad the rest of it isn't just me
I have the harbor freight sawmill...I talked a couple of friends into getting the woodlands mill because harbor freight has no customer service and the woodlands mill was only a couple hundred more ...I helped both of them set up there saws ...not counting the customer service the harbor freight is a better saw even though the carriage only has 2 post instead of 4 ...I have flooded the engine a couple of times but generally it starts after 2 or 3 pull's the centrifugal clutch still going strong the belts on the wheels are still the original belts and only replaced the drive belt once my sawmill is about 6 years old ...I have never had a problem with the blade tracking but the 2 woodlands mills I helped set up it was a major problem and both mills had different causes for the tracking problem...as far as the tracks go the harbor freight tracks are a heavier angle iron but nothing matches up so I purchased some 20 foot angle iron and made my own ...if I was you I would go get a predator motor from harbor freight and put on there ...I cut alot of pitchy evergreen and run 1table spoon of cheap dish soap in 1 gallon of water...cuts the pitch good and no slippage
That's pretty much the same lube mix I was running, had to pull the soap out completely to keep the blades on. I'm in Canada where Harbor Freight doesn't exist, we do have Princess Auto which is similar, but not quite as good. You guys down there get all the cool stuff. I wish WM would acknowledge its quality issues and fix them, pretty bad when a Harbor Freight mill is better
I understand what you got for the $, it's a piece of junk, don't need the problems this one gives you. Thanks for sharing the video. Off to another sawmill for sure/
For starters I’m not usually this harsh but dang 😂😂😂 what a joke learn to set up, level and true your track right everything you described for one u should have known before you purchased and for 2 it sounds like most of your problems are USER error !!! sounds like you should probably stay in the house with with women sorry not sorry I mean dang listen to yourself 😢
Loved the video. I've had a few issues with my HM130, but nothing too serious other than a wobble on the rail that I have to push a little bit to get through. I agree with you on the hollow bunks...pain in the ass to clean.
Man, you do whine a lot! By the looks of your machine you very seldom even clean it. Your heat deflector is pointing up, which is a water collector. Your rails are probably bent due to the flexible set up you have under it. Honestly, even an $82,000 set would probably have you complaing.
Interesting video. Seems like your complaints are based on mechanical ignorance and poor setup vs. engineering. You probably wouldn't have been happy with a Timberking.
I understand the frustration when things are all screwed up. I've been very fortunate with my HM126. The engine starts perfect and runs like a beast.
i purchased an hm122 in 2018 best money i have ever spent. i think if you wanted a woodmiser you should have bought one.
Thank you for your video and what you have shown us 🇺🇸 .... Looking like a lot of troubles isn't worth giving away....
This guy is a jk
I have a 130MAX. I’ve had some of the same issues. If you are trying to level the track system with a bubble level I can tell you from experience it will never happen. I use a transit or laser level. I would also make a more substantial bed for those legs to rest on rather than having it sitting on firewood rounds, other wise you’ll have to re level the mill every time you put a log on. 100% use diesel. You will only need a drip every second or two. The blades stay very very clean, won’t have to worry about it freezing, and it seems to run better through the system. Too much “lube” will throw a blade every time. Cut a half inch or so off the clear tubing and put it on the “lube” Zirk. You won’t need a clamp and it works just fine. Hope this helps
What kind of issues have you had. Ordered one a week ago and hasn't shipped yet. Do you still recommend it? Thanks
I just set up my 130 max on trailer last month - and it is working great. You learn best through trail & error but It's so awesome being able to cut your lumber. I don't agree with this video at all. Either the guy bought a lemon or he works for Woodland's competition (clandestinely). I set up the battery (electric start )- and it starts up every time and the Kohler engine cuts the logs, so I don't know what the f@k he's babbling about. and I'm a Chartered Accountant by trade and was able to figure it out, although it took a while with assembly (weekend warrior) and leveling / square but i finally got it. I watched the wrong video - as I was looking for expert advice on milling.@@thecoursinfamily
Interesting video. Seems like your complaints are based on mechanical ignorance and poor setup vs. engineering. You probably wouldn't have been happy with a Timberking.
Right on point lol
My neighbor has this exact mill . He set it up dead level and added extra support . He made sure everything worked properly .adjusted and fettled until perfect. Adjusted spark gap and carb adjustment. Just the difference in some men. He cuts true timber and never heard him curse once.
Take a long hard look at yourself buddy.
It is obvious you don't have a clue as to what it takes to set up the system. No the bunks don't deform with a heavy log so how much lumber have you really sawn? I have sawn 24" Red Oak with no problems.
I have the 130max, dont have any issues you talk about, lots of complaining without understanding. On the blade lube grease fitting add a 1" piece of fuel tube. Your carb low speed jet is misadjusted. Rotate you recoil so the pull is toward your throttle.
Guess you could always spend $50K on what you believe is a great sawmill.
Oh good, the guy with low standards has arrived. a) I tried every combination of hose and clamp long before making this video, it doesn't work. You still can't aim it worth crap and the hose never stayed on no matter how I clamped it. b) Not only is that a great way to void warranty but it has nothing to do with the popping out the exhaust. c) If you actually own one of these mills then you should know how much stuff is in the way of pulling it on the other side.
Guess you could always go brag about how great cheap Chinese garbage masquerading as Canadian quality is.
I think what it boils down to is you wanted a wood mizer for a woodland mill price
I have a 130 Max and I have only run water and have not had a problem throwing blades. The blade guide is a waste of time except to ensure the water gets on the blade closer to the point of cutting. The yellow guard was falling off so I just removed it and do not miss it. I tension the blade to 23 foot pounds with a torque wrench and that seems to work great for me. The spring lock on the crank is crap has never worked correctly for me. As for the engine the label seems to be backward for running and stop. The idle can be adjusted and it would save you the tie back on the throttle. Of note I have let this thing sit for a couple months and with the battery in it , it just fired right up. As for popping I have only had that with 87 fuel. When I run 93 it does not back fire on me. The door clasps at the bottom literally fell of within the first 3 hours of use. Bottom line, for the price I think unless you want to import directly off Alibaba the price was fair. The fact the rails flex and the bunks do not allow for good support at the end of the cut makes for some bad wavy / tapered cuts so you just have to plan for that.
Some kind of detergent is necessary for cutting pitchy wood like balsam fir, I may end up trying diesel since no amount of soap will let my blade stay on. My yellow guard likes to fall off if I don't tighten it with hulk strength as well. I've played with the idle like crazy, there doesn't seem to be a happy place, if it's high enough to start then when it's warm it idles so high that it's partially engaging the clutch, which would burn it out quick. Mine pops even with ethanol free 94 octane. These engines clearly have quality control issues, I'm sure some run okay and then others are garbage like mine. Sucks about the door clasps, the ones they did mount on mine weren't mounted in the right place so I redid them and put blue loctite on the threads, so far they're still in there. Thing is, it takes me a long time to save up 6g, so I expect to get something that isn't hot garbage for that money
I can tell you the engine problem you are having is the valve adjustment is crucial. The number one symptom is the backfiring and hard to start. I have the HM 126 with a 14hp. And all I cut with it is Hardwood.
I understand your frustration with the Kohler. But in fairness all overhead Valve engines which is practically every 4 stroke now will eventually go through that. Valve lash is your enemy here, I believe anyway, goodluck
Thanks so much for the video, I think it gives a very important perspective on the mill! I have a Hm126 myself and I only have 15 hours on it. I have been fighting with in from the beginning because the blades keeps coming off (I destroyed 10 or so already). I think for what the mill costs it is a good mill (if you really think about it.. of how many parts there are and everything). But there are so many flaws.. you need to be a mechanic and need to enjoy tinkering on that stuff (I simply have a hard time finding time for it and/or simply don't enjoy it and would rather mill logs than fix machinery). I think that I will try to fix my tracking issues and mill the logs up that I have and sell it. If I were to ever buy one again it would be a Woodmizer I think. But a new lt35 hydraulic is 50k now so I don't think it makes any sense anymore.. maybe just buy lumber in the future.
For the money Kholers are great engines I’ve had several, never had an issue.
Thanks for your honesty opinion!! Saved me some grief!!
I got AHM126I bought it 20 fifthe only thing I have wrong with it When I put too big of a log on and I bent the frame but it made my own frame And it works great I have no issues other than that So maybe you just got a bad bad One So stay safe stay healthy stay happy you'll need it Does have a good day and will catch you on another one
You can probably try to level it properly I have a 130max and properly level and it works 100percent
The biggest concern to me is the uneven rails, if in fact you manage to get other things corrected one way or another, the most important thing is true sized, straight, usable lumber. I've been using a thing called "woodbug" designed and built by a fellow on Vancouver Island, good, but because it is a chainsaw milling appl. so much wasted wood, However quite true lumber.
Hi, i mostly agreee with the mentioned points... but not about child labor... yes, it needs a lot of adjustments to make it work properly. What i want to add - at least what i see on my HM130Max - the post system i dont like, the teflon pushings are crap - there is always play in it - you cant adjust it to be firmly- if so they wear out quickly. So the head is always in a shake during cuts. As you said, the head isn't stable at all - it wiggles like a dog tail. My engin starts like a charm - first pull or after 1 sec of e-start - it idles... bangs and pops at the end - yes it does - i dont care about it. It vibrates like hell - maybe some rubber vib-absorbers woold be good. Another thing to be mentioned - the quality of the paint it bad, very bad- i have it covered with rost everywhere - paint is coming of in big chuncks after 2 years... I dont like the throttle at all, you dont get the full revs - no matter how you are adjusting the cable. Rails - yes i agree- this is a fail. I was loading a oak log with the traktor on it - the rails gets bend so easy - but the good thing is - with a sludge hammer - they are bend back quickly. ;-) no to be honest - the rail system is crap. I never had thrown of any band yet... bearings are fine, clutch is fine etc... tensioning system is also fine - very basic but it works. The hight adjustment with cables needs to be adjusted time to time, thats fine, i dont like the handle - it takes awefull long time and muscle power to get from top to bottom and bottom to top position. The measurement ruler are junk - dont use them. After 2 years out in the elements they shrink and the readings are wrong - so the thickness of the boards is wrong as well - what a bloody nightmare! I glued a std. steal ruler to it and not everything is in size again. Took me a while to figure that out. At the hm130 the banks are covered with stainless steal so it does not react with oak wookd for example- thats good. The librication system needs some modifications to but the lub where it belongs - but this is an easy fixe. All over, yes - its a cheap machinery made out of chinesium in china - but as we are in europe, its metric which is good (not imperial - because of not having and imperial tools), its cheap which is also good and for my purpose as a starter in cutting lumber its a good (enoght), cheap entry to make, to learn and realy know what i want to have, what works for me and what i realy need to look at buying a better bandsaw once the next time. I didnt want to invest 15k€ to figure out its not my hobby any more, i dont like it or i dont need it anymore - so i have invested 4k€ to learn and make mistakes and bend things up etc... and at the end, with some adjustments, modifications, etc... you will get the job done quite well... Summary: Yes, cheap chinesium from china, yes, lots of down sides of the mill but as entry, for learning and starting, getting some projects done - its worth the money. With a bit of fiddeling you will get it working somehow good enought to make some decent lumber. Would i buy this saw if i want to enter lumber business professionally - NO. Would i buy this saw again - NO because i have already learned so many things what i like, what i want to have and whats important for my way of working - would i recommand the saw for someone who wants to try it out and start learning on a small budge - YES. Am I happy with it - YES - for now. Remember - you get what you pay floks. UPDATE: One thing i forgot to mention - the extension blade guide - this thing is most likely the main reason why this saw is not cutting properly. This is realy bad desing and you cant adjust it to be sturdy to guid the blade - best option is to keep it always way in and fix it in place a good as possible. Thinking of it - i think thats even the worst part of the whole sawmill. Thats a fail in design, construction and material choice... a total loss.
I bought the HM130 in 2016. I can't complain. I have had the blade flying off and couldn't figure it out. Called Woodland and found I had turned up the water drip to far cutting white pine thinking I needed more lube with the high amount of pitch in these logs. That was hydroing the band right off the wheel. Slowed the water and haven't thrown a band since. The only bearings that have gone bad are the ones behind the band. I use ether windshield washer or RV pink antifreeze for lube and it seems to be hard on those bearings. I can tell you when they quit turning you quit cutting straight cuts to the point of busting bands. I'm with you on the needle valve on the bottom of the lube tank. What a piece of crap! Mine has a hand valve that has to be turned on at the start of every cut and it went bad. Maybe the type lube I use. Carburetor went bad and found you can't buy a rebuild kit for it. Had to buy a new carb at the staggering cost of $19.00 shipped to the house. I didn't have any problem leveling my mill but I mounted mine on a steel trailer. I feel the clutch starting to get weak but after cutting 10's of thousands of bf of lumber I don't see any reason to complain. I've replaced the tire once and the belt once. When it's tuned in I cut 1/8 and 1/16" venerer all the time as I'm a woodworker and need wood cut this thick quite often. It's a $5000.00 entry level mill and I feel I got what I paid for. Now if I was going to open a sawmill for profit I would go with a Cook.
You complain a lot without doing a simple fix. Your base is a joke So no wonder it's all over the place, The complain about the drip system, It's sad that you're not able to get in line a quarter turn valve to control the flow and 2" line to get it on the right spot on the blade. Do some adjustments to the wheels so the blade doesn't jump off.
I got hm130max, and with some simple fixes, i got a great machine for over 3 years
I completely agree with you very same problems except engine problem. Complete junk,but for 4k probably nothing better. Got woodmizer much better go for
HM 130 It's not a high production mill but i think it's a good hobby mill, i put mine together myself have not had any problems to speak of, i didnt like the log scale i took it off ,most trouble i had was my lube clogging up.
Live with your mashing fix it quit wining
I have the hm 122 and I agree with a lot of what u said but my 7hp kohler has been the best engine ever the thing cranks first pull 80% of the time and never takes more than 2 pulls it’s been a great engine. I hate the clutch I think it’s weak and slips, I hate the track as u stated it’s warped, I hate the belts, and I don’t like the cradle frame. If I could go back I’d buy the woodmizer and spend a tad more money
Maybe I did just get a lemon of an engine and they don't want to deal with it. Or maybe the 14hp is different than the 7hp, who knows. I'm glad the rest of it isn't just me
@@backwoodsbuildingandfixing9223 I hear ya brother
Take the pull cord cover off and take a cordless drill with a socket on it. Drill spin it over alot faster than you can with that cord
I have the harbor freight sawmill...I talked a couple of friends into getting the woodlands mill because harbor freight has no customer service and the woodlands mill was only a couple hundred more ...I helped both of them set up there saws ...not counting the customer service the harbor freight is a better saw even though the carriage only has 2 post instead of 4 ...I have flooded the engine a couple of times but generally it starts after 2 or 3 pull's the centrifugal clutch still going strong the belts on the wheels are still the original belts and only replaced the drive belt once my sawmill is about 6 years old ...I have never had a problem with the blade tracking but the 2 woodlands mills I helped set up it was a major problem and both mills had different causes for the tracking problem...as far as the tracks go the harbor freight tracks are a heavier angle iron but nothing matches up so I purchased some 20 foot angle iron and made my own ...if I was you I would go get a predator motor from harbor freight and put on there ...I cut alot of pitchy evergreen and run 1table spoon of cheap dish soap in 1 gallon of water...cuts the pitch good and no slippage
That's pretty much the same lube mix I was running, had to pull the soap out completely to keep the blades on. I'm in Canada where Harbor Freight doesn't exist, we do have Princess Auto which is similar, but not quite as good. You guys down there get all the cool stuff. I wish WM would acknowledge its quality issues and fix them, pretty bad when a Harbor Freight mill is better
I understand what you got for the $, it's a piece of junk, don't need the problems this one gives you. Thanks for sharing the video. Off to another sawmill for sure/
Why did you buy it?
For starters I’m not usually this harsh but dang 😂😂😂 what a joke learn to set up, level and true your track right everything you described for one u should have known before you purchased and for 2 it sounds like most of your problems are USER error !!! sounds like you should probably stay in the house with with women sorry not sorry I mean dang listen to yourself 😢
Loved the video. I've had a few issues with my HM130, but nothing too serious other than a wobble on the rail that I have to push a little bit to get through. I agree with you on the hollow bunks...pain in the ass to clean.
my frontier os30 is mint strait as a rail love it
Lol 😂😂😂😂 thanks for your review just got the hm 122 a couple days ago
I have a 130max and think it’s a great mill. Best 5k mill one can buy for the price. Think you are wining about a grudge you have with woodland mills
Frontier if i am right the blade housing is plastic
To be a fix it channel .. looks like you need to go back to trade school on mechanics . Lol
I have the same problems with the 122
well interesting review but with your complaints all changed and redone noone could afford a hobby mill for sure
Man, you do whine a lot! By the looks of your machine you very seldom even clean it. Your heat deflector is pointing up, which is a water collector. Your rails are probably bent due to the flexible set up you have under it. Honestly, even an $82,000 set would probably have you complaing.
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If its so bad get rid of it and get something better
Did you just got divorced. I understand your wife.
Drill the main jet out a bit
How can you check a rail by having it on bisquits , you gotta be joking. That setup is junk.
frontier is a way beter option fyi
You'd better learn how to set up a Mill
great video 🇺🇲
you have no idea what your talking about 😂
This whole video is BS!!!! Wow you definitely have lied through out
Interesting video. Seems like your complaints are based on mechanical ignorance and poor setup vs. engineering. You probably wouldn't have been happy with a Timberking.
you are absolutely spot on .