Briggs & Stratton cylinder head replacement snow engine - Craftsman snow blower head gasket replace
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Briggs & Stratton 8.5hp Cylinder Head gasket repair on Craftsman snowblower. 15A114-0342-E1 2005 Engine. This is a common problem on these engines. We will tear it down, replace the gasket and reassemble. Simple to do once you watch the video. How to determine the head gasket is bad? On this particular Briggs engine, you can do a leak-down test OR in many cases, you can just hear the leak as you slowly rotate the engine by slowly pulling out the pull cord. Listen around the cylinder head and you will hear it if it's bad. They all tend to leak in the same exact spot towards the top of the cylinder head.
Awesome video. Thank you for posting. Used it to replace the head gasket on my snowblower this week. Thank you for showing all the bolts as you put them back in, this made re-assembly a lot easier.
Thanks for the many details and sequence of disassembly, assembly and the fact that the push rods can be installed after the head was back on. Great job!
I finished this repair a few months ago and she's now handling the snow here in Maine better than when she was new. Thanks Dan.
Thanks for making this video, it'll help a lot of people.
I have the same model. It's been used about an hour each year for 15 years.
Trying to figure out why after using it for about 20 minutes the wheel drive starts slipping. It gets bad and I need to drag the machine back by the handle. There is some oil on the frame around the base of the engine block and in the back by where the shift/ speed lever passes through the frame. Maybe this oil leaks down and gets on the belt or friction wheel?
In the past I've had the tension springs break and/or come loose on the swing plate, inside the back cover.
Tomorrow I'll take off the back cover and front belt cover to see what I can see.
When I'm going backwards I do tip the front up kind of high. This is nothing new however and in the past I didn't have this slipping problem.
I have video. If you are interested I can post a link to that.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks!
Right now you're my Bob Ross. This is relaxing for some reason. Thank you .
Glad you enjoyed
I really appreciate your time and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Although this video is over 4 years old it is Perfect for detailing how to get the head removed. I 'acquired' a broken Craftsman snowblower from a friend with a B&S motor manufactured only a few months before the one in the video, and the tear-down here was spot-on. The snowblower I now 'own' had no compression as a first symptom, and this video gave a very likely cause. After following the steps in the video and opening up the cylinder head I found (a) the head gasket was starting to deteriorate, (b) the exhaust valve was stuck/corroded in the open position and (c) water in the oil. That came out like stinky discolored milk. For some reason this is a common problem - another friend has the same model and the same problem occurred, water in the oil, and a 3rd (!) friend related the same experience with a similar model. How is that water getting in the crankcase?
Currently cleaning everything up and looking for parts. It would be helpful to know what the part # is for the head gasket in the video. Thanks very much to Dan for an Excellent video.
Can't thank you enough for this video, it was my exact problem. The snow blower would misfire badly at any rpm higher than 2800. The plug was black and the exhaust would burn my eyes. I changed the ignition coil because the spark looked intermittent at the misfire speed. No change. I worked on the carburetor since it seemed to be running extremely rich. I thought I was on the right track cause I could get the rpm up to 3600 by loosening the carb mounting and creating a vacuum leak. Still not satisfied that I found the root cause I stumbled onto your video of my exact blower. I pulled the recoil and thought I heard the swoosh swoosh. I then did a leak down and air was definitely escaping from the head. That was the problem...head gasket. What threw me off from the beginning was I did a compression test and I had 100 PSI . Go figure.
Yeah, a compression test doesn't really tell you too much other than "does it have enough compression to run" The leakdown test will let you zero in on the integrity of the whole compression system. By that I mean, cylinder, head gasket, head (cracks?) valve seats and valve sealing, rings, piston (cracked?). It gives you confirmation that all those things are working properly. Any leaks and you will have problems with the mixture not being correct and not burning properly. I'm sure you had all kinds of weird behaviors depending on temperature/conditions that was difficult to nail down. Looks like you solved it!
Really enjoy your video including the details on the gotchas you bring up. I hope you continue to create more videos. Very high quality sound and video as well. Good job!
+capohd28 Thank you. It takes a while to create these videos.. just depends on how busy I am. I know many folks are living "off the grid" and rely on help from You tube. I create and post these for those folks who are willing to give it a try themselves. It's not for everyone, but I salute the guys who will get off the couch and give it a try. I'm glad these videos help.
Excellent video, i just bought one of these for $100 ran good but the previous owner said it lacked power in deep heavy stuff. I could hear the compression leak. My head gasket was leaking 90 degrees away from yours towards the gas tank.
Sweet, quick fix and saved some coin!
Well done video. Very professional. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thank you so much!!!! I think you just pointed me in the right direction to why it started running horrible all the sudden and started sounding weird. You wouldnt happen to have part numbers of a recommended head gasket by chance?
You can look it up on Partstree.com. Get the model, code and type and DOM off the back air shield on the engine (or stamped on the valve cover sometimes). Each displacement uses a different gasket ( the bore is different size but the rest is exactly the same)
Great video I am working on my father-in-laws snowblower and i think i have to, at least replace the head gasket, no compression at all. Do I have to take off the pull cored cover? thanks for filming this video. You will save me a bunch of time.
Very good demo on how to change the head gasket. It is easy for a handyman. Can you please let me know how much reasonable cost at the repair shop?
I have a 20m114 but designed different. Different carb and mounting.
Great video. Thanks for posting it.
Really great video, you know your stuff!
je l'ai fait, pis ça marche, merci,
i did it, step by step, it worked and it started
to install the push rods, i unscrew the screw roker arm
it did start, let see if it will do the winter
not the adjuster roker arm, i was unsure about adjusting them
The head gasket failed because 4 bolts can not hold it tight all around. Even smaller lawn mower flat head engines use 7 bolts. This engine is designed to fail.
Dan. Thank you soo.....much. I have this snowblower and have had trouble with it from about day one. No one ever seemed to be able to fix it and I wound up working on it myself. I eventually had to replace the carburetor and I also added a fuel shut-off, although not as nicely as you did. This winter, it ran better than ever.. until one day when it wouldn't turn over. I replaced the magneto which really gave me better spark, but it's still not running and I now that I've seen your video, I think it's the head gasket. You are a real pro and make great videos. Thanks so very much and keep on posting.
By the way, I have the same questions as GKazz about the red wire. Is it for accessories? If so, why isn't it capped off?
Can you give me an idea of what you might have charged for the job on this video?
Check to see if you can hear a leaking sound when you slowly pull the starter cord. Most of the time, you can hear it leaking on these engines. If it leaks enough, you won't have enough compression for the mixture to burn and this might be why it's not running. As far as the spark goes, if you have ANY spark at all, chances are the magneto is fine. These engines don't have a big fat spark like the old (60's and 70's) engines that use points and condenser. All you need is a small spark to light the fire. Do a quick test by spraying some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the carburetor then pulling the cord. If the engine runs "normally" for 1-2 seconds then stalls, you probably have a fuel problem (carb clogged , water in fuel, debris in bowl, etc) If the engine does not run at all and coughs and spits , you may have a sheared flywheel key causing the spark to happen at the wrong time. You would need to remove the recoil cover and the flywheel nut and cup to see if the key slot is lined up with the flywheel. I'm not sure on this particular engine if you can see it without actually removing the flywheel from the engine. Try to narrow down the problem before you replace parts. These engines generally run well if you have good fuel delivery, good compression and a properly timed spark.
Dan, before your reply I took apart the engine and the head gasket was blown exactly as in the video. I cleaned the head and piston, got a new gasket and installed it and reinstalled the push rods. The intake works fine.
I am concerned that exhaust valve doesn't seem to move much except for the compression release that you pointed out on the video.
I can turn the engine almost 360, but not more. Is that correct?
Both tappet clearances were at 0.005 in, so I tediously set the exhaust to about 0.010.
I started to put it all together, but don't feel comfortable about the exhaust. Advice?
@@lamontcranston2627- you should be able to turn the engine by hand all the way around with no resistance. Something must be in the cylinder OR you may have a valve that is stuck and when the push rod trys to open it, it jambs. I have seen the valves seize in the guides from people running the engine with low oil. Always make sure the oil is at the proper level on these OHV engines or the head won't get enough lubrication (and cooling) and the valves with seize and/or the head will overheat. The oil does a decent amount of cooling believe it or not.
So would the blown gasket cause the wheel to not spin?
Great video, very clear. Subscribed
Hi DAN
my Briggs 250cc OHV engine leaking oil ??
15c107
any ideas?
Is it the hex or torx that adjusts the clearance?
do you know where to get a replacement engine for this exact model?
i set my valves at 4int 6ex, taryl sets them at 4-4
Great video! Question. Under the gas tank support plate, there's a red wire with a c-type plug end, coming off the the alternator. Can you please tell me what it is, and where it plugs into? I have a feeling it's for a headlight or something like that. thanks.
That wire is a stator coil wire (alternator/generator/coil - whatever you want to call it) and it generates power when the engine is spinning via the magnets on the inside of the flywheel. It's used to power a light or electric motor for the snow chute motor if you have one on your snow blower. In this video it looks like that wire has a diode on it so it generates pulsed DC power (vs AC power). There are charts and books available from Briggs that show the various charging configurations and the amount of power each can deliver.
Mine runs, but after 5 minutes will blow oil out of breather on valve cover. I believe its blown between the combustion chamber and push rod valley. Any other suggestions before I tear it apart? Mine is the same blower, but older because mine is a 12 ci
It could be blown there. Do a leak-down test and listen for noise at the oil fill cap(take the cap off). You should hear some but you may hear lots if the head gasket is bad. It sounds like the crankcase is building pressure over time due to a compression leak blowing into the crankcase area via the pushrod area.
ALSO, you may have oil in the engine that's been thinned out by gasoline due to a slow carburetor leak caused by a leaky needle and seat in the carb. What happens generally is, the carb fuel inlet doesn't fully close (leaking needle/seat/ or bad/cracked float) and fuel from the tank slowly overfills the carburetor to the point where fuel comes up the carb main jet and slowly leaks into the intake port then slowly runs into the cylinder (if the valve is opened or the valve does not seal perfectly) and past the rings then ends up in the crankcase with the oil. This thins the oil out and once the engine runs for a few minutes, it blows out this oil/gas mixture through the breather, or sometimes the muffler/exhaust will smoke. This kind of thing usually happens after long-term storage (summer storage) when the fuel left in the tank slowly weeps over several months and ends up in the crankcase. I see it all the time. ALWAYS check the oil level before you use any equipment because if it's overfull, you may have this problem. To solve it, simply drain the oil (you will see it runs out very fast like water because it's been diluted by gasoline) and refill the oil to the proper level. You should also check the carb to see if it's still overfilling. This is one reason I never store my equipment full of fuel. I just put a small amount of Ethanol-free fuel in my equipment and run it for a few minutes to get that new fuel down into the carburetor bowl and leave it for the winter/summer. Nothing worse than having half a gallon of fuel drain out into your garage!
Just did this same job on my snowblower 11.5 250cc and I am having trouble setting the valves. I get the right clearances, but it will not start. Is there another step I need to know?
Once the valves are set, you should be good to go. Do you have compression? Fuel? Spark? It the flywheel key in tact? (sometimes the key will shear and this changes the timing (spark). The clearance between the valve tip and rocker arm should be around .006-.009 or so. Why did you replace the head gasket? Was it bad for sure? LMK
hello good afternoon I have the same snowblower. but I have some problems with the machine. The first is that it only works in chooke when I start running it pulls as it would like and also throws fire through the exhaust sometimes as small explosions and when the apgo comes out little smoke through the carburetor. change the carburetor but do the same speed is not stable. could be the governor I ask for your help thanks
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Good Video
just picked up a used 2014 Craftsman snow shredder 250cc Seized Engine !!!!!!!!!!!
Ran with NO OIL , piston scored é aluminum transfer on cylinder
check my rebuild video !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2014 Craftsman Snow shredder Rebuild