Very clear... concise information. No out-of-topic details... no insanely loud metal music in the background competing with the speaker's voice. Others should take notes... That's how you do it! Thank you for this video.
Not only do you explain (thoroughly) how to perform this easy maintenance, you also explain other things to look for and do to extend the life of your water heater. You, sir, are awesome.
Thanks Shannon. I just got an estimate of $183 from the plumber to change out the rod. Think I'll do it myself for about $30. Thanks for saving me some money
You said the dip tube is on the hot side but it's actually on the cold side inlet. Its main purpose is to direct the cold water to the bottom of the tank and that's where it is dispersed. Also, you wrapped the teflon tape in the wrong direction. Other than that, you did a great job. Thanks for your videos.
Hey Shannon, just found your dip tube video. Great job on the video. The cut-a-way was a terrific way of not only showing what you are doing but why. Thank you so much for taking the time to video these entire repairs. You are saving a lot of people a lot of money.
I enjoy your videos, not being a wise guy, the air in the water heater has to be bled out before turning an electric water heater on or you could possibly ruin the upper heating element if not surrounded with water. This can be accomplished by opening a hot water faucet or raising the lever on the pressure relief valve. Thanks for taking time to make the videos, they are really informative. :)
Thanks Chris. BTW others have noticed that I put the teflon on in wrong direction as well, good eye. It does work that way obviously but threads nicer as you know, when installed the other way. Thanks for watching
Sharing some thoughts! I'm pretty handy and after three and a half years I decided to give the anode rod a checking out on my GE 60 gallon water heater that was installed in January 2011. I decided also to contact my local plumber thinking that if I were to run into a problem he would give some assistance and parts should something go wrong. We both tackled this problem using the 1/16 socket and a breaker bar on a half inch ratchet. This would not budge the bolt. Then, that night I sprayed the bolt with some WD40 and called him back - this time bringing his socket hammer driver. This a drill like device - 1/2 inch driver - and for the likes of us both - the bolt would not budge. Even worse, looking at the top of the nut down an inch deep into the water heater top… the surface of the bolt is an unbelievable 1/4 inch for the socket to fit onto. This is truly an impossible job. The manufacturer of the water heater is determined NOT to have this rod replaced by anyone! So, my water heater has a 12 year warranty and that will be that! Don't blame your plumber if he/she can't get this anode rod out… it appears that it was built to stay put! Good luck if you try this "Simple repair"
selwocc I've run into that same scenario. I can't for the life of me get that bolt to turn. I've invested in 1) the socket, 2) a breaker bar, and 3) a new rod. It seems to be money wasted!
Did you call your manufacturer and ask if it was built to last 12 years? Years ago I had a well drilled and water tested. Great water with almost NO minerals and NO organics (Texas- oil wells) like benzine and toluene. But water pH was 5.0. What did that mean? It was "aggressive" in the water industry parlance. Anywhere I had a brass or copper/galvanized fitting interface, I had a pinhole leak in 12 to 18 months!
THE best video ever made about water heater. Very professional, very clear. Only thing miss is: what is an Anode rode used for? I need to Google it to find out. Thanks Shannon. Great job!
Nice video - You do a great job explain the whys and hows of this job. One addition I suggest is to open a hot water valve (preferably on the upper story) when draining water from the heater. This lets it drain a lot better. As for other periodic maintenance, I also open my pressure relief valve once a year. This increases it's chances of not being cemented shut if and when I need it to work. Thanks for a great video.
It takes at LEAST a heavy duty 3/4" drive impact wrench to crack those threads lose on original equipment anode rods. Them things are usually in so tight that we have to put a four foot long cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive breaker bar with impact socket and a helper trying to stop the water heater from rotating. I've even considered using an acetylene torch. Here's a HUGE tip! We feed the cold supply into the BOTTOM of the tank! We remove the boiler drain, put in a nipple, tee, boiler drain and feed supply into top (middle) of tee. This assures that no calcium or lime build up occurs on bottom of tank. People NEVER remember to flush their water heater. This takes care of that for them. We install a SECOND anode rod where the original water feed was. All in all, I'd guess this would at least double the expected life and serviceability of their water heater's tank. We've had inspectors squabble - but they soon learned this installation not only meets code, but is the preferred method of at least Bradford White and AO Smith. I think the bottom fill keeping the bottom of the tank clean will help prevent people from turning up their water temperature to compensate for short-cycling that had been caused by build-up. That higher temperature causes build-up at an accelerated rate, clogging their distribution piping. Accelerated sacrifice of the anode rod, as well. That's THREE, count 'em 3 - huge benefits to this method. Neat, huh?
Good video...straight forward....have a 40 gal GE tank, only 7 yrs old, decided to change anode rod. Broke that anode nut loose.....but come to find out that it was stripping the threads in the tank boss as well as the threads on the old anode nut. Forget about going to Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace/NAPA/Auto Zone to find a 3/4"-14 thread chaser to clean out the damaged thread. Part I....limited by characters.
@@wrzl1675 I think he was right. Wrapping counterclockwise should ensure it does not fold/tear up when screwing back in. Clockwise wrapping can possibly get torn up.
Cost of doing this myself: $20 anode rod, from Amazon $75 impact wrench (1/2") and socket set Still cheaper than hiring a plumber! Time required: 25 minutes trying to shut off the water supply valve that hasn't been closed in 25 yrs 1 minute removing old rod 5 minutes sawing some length off the new rod so it will make the ceiling clearance 1 minute tightening in the new rod.
For me it was $23 Amazon rod 25 min. trying to find water cutoff water cutoff broke off due to age, water all over me and crawl space. $100 water bill due to excessive use Plumber after hours $400 to fix valve. Extra $100 to install the rod but no guarantee as I didn't purchase from him. Plumber noticed water heater was starting to leak, replaced, for $879. Sold house cheap because crawl space was wet.
Yes, adding Teflon tape is great, especially when you wrap it the right way. Nowadays, the standard in the the plumbing world is also to apply pipe sealant like “Leak Loc” over the tape.
I would say that every couple of years would be fine but it really depends on your water quality and usage. It could be necessary to change the low boy more often but pull it out and check it to see the condition.
That does seem like a lot of teflon tape. Kind of surprised the threads will catch where the tape is. Seems it would be pushed up away from the threads and serve more as a gasket than a thread sealant. Anyway, not sure if this has been mentioned as to electric heaters, but people should always make sure the top element is covered with water before turning the power back on. This will save the element. You don't want cold water hitting a hot element.
Shannon, please show us more on the hot water tank and the in floor heating system that we got a glimpse of in this video. How it's hooked up and all....Thanks
Good video. One thing you forgot to do, and is a required building code in all states is to use dielectric fittings. One on the cold water inlet and one on hot water outlet. The fittings in the tank are steel. When you connect the copper pipes to those steel fittings rust much like the rod you just replaced tends to build up at this point. These fittings have a nylon pressure barrier that doesn’t let the steel and copper touch. Water and metals of all types don’t get along rust always wins. We can only delay the rust but never eliminate it. That’s why the rod was invented and these dielectric fittings. To better understand this look up dielectric fittings and why they are used. Remember, these are mandatory building code requirements for all states.
Changeing down to smaller heater can effect the amount of hot water you have at anyone time on hand for use. The sizes you are refering to are very large for a typical family home but a multi family duplex or small appartment building would require this size, so talk to a plumber about "sizing" the heater for the amount of use you have and that will let you know the minimum size you need. Anodes should be the same in most heaters, gas or electric.
Can you do a video on the new water heaters where the anode is inside the hot water line? Bradford Whites does not have a little cap anymore that you can just remove and pull out the anode. On the new ones, you have to remove the hot water line on the top to get to the anode.
I only have 30" of height from the top of the water heater to the inside of the roof. How can I replace the rod w/o moving the whole water heater? Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
When you pull out the old one you can clamp it, then cut it and repeat to remove. Then buy the folded segmented rod. No need to pull out in one piece. But be very careful to not allow any to fall back in.
Thanks for the video it is very informative. My water heater instruction manual, that I found online, doesn't tell me the specs of the anode rod. What can I do?
None of them do. It's because they just change parts willy nilly when they make water heaters, and don't want anyone demanding a new rod that is the proper length. Make your life easier too, stop making promises.
Great video and very well explained. I had never even thought about replacing my anode rod until I notice how expensive water heaters have become. They've nearly tripled in price since I bought mine9 years ago. You really like your teflon tape though. Holy cow,! :) It should come out nice and easy next time though.
I'm absolutely convinced that my water heater is toast. So much so that I haven't even checked the rod or flushed it before buying a new water heater that I have standing by. I haven't had any trouble but I haven't checked it in 10 years and I have no idea how old it was when I got this place. I'm pretty sure once I flush the sediment (or concrete, whichever it is by now) and try to remove the rod, I will void the grace period I'm living under.
From some other videos I've seen the anode rod is under a cover that has to be removed from the top of some water heaters. Maybe that's one reason some people can't find theirs?
Due to a minimal height space in my hot water closet - I am substituting the old straight rod for a flexible anode Rod. Do I have to cut a part of one of the links to the same measurement as the one I am replacing?
Hi Shannon,thanks for the good video I have a question? Is it ok to replace a 119 gallon water heater down to 80 gall?& what is the diff.commercial or residential water or house water heater ? & anode rod for the gas vs elec.is not the same right?
tank life can vary depending on what type of water you have. some water sources agressively attack the anode and you will get a sulphur odour. anodes made of aluminum instead of magnesium are installed in this case. many tanks use an anode which is part of the hot water out fitting,there is no anode marking on the top. most tanks never get the anode changed during their life.
Good vid- how do you know when to replace your anode rod? Do you wait for a symptom or is the rule every few years. Also my heater is 6 years old what other maintenance should be done?
I have a 20 year old Apollo 5010 water heater. I know I need to have both the anode rod and dip tube replaced. I can see the dip tube is on the cold water supply pipe inside the water heater. However, there is no anode rod top bolt at the atop of the water heater. Does that mean I have to replace the water heater?
Does the replacing the anode rod extend the life of the tank past the manufacturers warranty? Is that why tanks go bad around the 8th or 9th year sometimes and burst or rust out and wake you up at 3am with water all over your basement? (like it did me this morning)
Hi shannon That is probably why all my hot washers faucet going bad on every faucet my heater was probably installed in the late 90' What do you think and where to get a new anode rod ?
I think that's why he said to apply the teflon tape to the "top half of the threads" so ground continuity would be maintained. But I can't see any problem with using plumbers dope. That appears to be what was on it when it was originally installed. But I don't know about putty with the heat requirements necessary for it to endure.
I am very concerned about opening the drain valve on the water heater. Can I change the rod without draining the tank. I would think shutting the cold water and opening up the hot water faucets would release any pressure in the tank. Does that sound dangerous?
Great video. Too much Teflon tape is more likely to leak. I understand why you might think otherwise, but it is not some kind of adhesive. I gets compressed. If a seat belt is too loose or too tight it won't work well. Same idea for the Teflon tape. 2 or 3 times around is enough. 4 or 5 max.
the anode is there to prevent rust. just like on big steel boats, dams, some docks and so on.. as far as i know it does not need to be insulated or not insulated.. its the metal itself (zink i believe) that does the work, not the charge. correct me if im wrong anyone. im a marine tech and this is what ive been taught.
Paul griffith The anode must be electrically connected to the tank. When the water "tries" to oxidize the steel tank, the electrons flow from the rod instead of from the steel. So the rod gets sacrificed but it prevents the steel from rusting.
Yes Omega Man.......good to see someone who is attentive. Also does anyone think that the tape is tough enough to act as a gasket between the threads? No it simply deforms into the gaps between the threads. 99.9 percent of the threads will be electrically connected. Engineers have worked this out! The rods are supplied here in Australia with a good amount of PTFE tape. They work perfectly. Happy Days.
I feel that you are wrong about anode and tank needing to be connected. The minerals that cause corrosion need ions or charged particles to do the work. They will attack the easiest metal first .... like Mg**, Al***, or Zn**. Iron or Fe** is the most difficult to attack and will only be attacked when these sacrificials are used up.
couple of points 1> DONT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH, you will break the glass/porcelain insulation 2> release the preassure but DONT drain, you need the tank to be heavy so it doesnt twist
I can't find the anode rod on my water heater. There are only 3 holes on the top. 1 each for cold & hot water line and 3rd for pressure relief valve? Can you suggest a solution? Thanks,
the dip tube is on the cold water side. It is usually plastic and doesn't need changed. Bradford-white usually have the anode rod as part of the hot side. I agree way too much teflon.
the plastic Dip tube does need changing periodically depending on your water conditions.Look for my video. Anode rod can be in two different locations depending on the manufacture. As for the teflon tape amount ....matter of opinion I guess? LOL.
Some dispute below about the "grounding" of the anode. The theory is that the magnesium must be electrically connected to the steel and copper connections at the top. Without the electrical connection, the bi-metallic corrosion will occur on the copper-steel parts. It will rust out and leak! I learned this the hard way. With an electrical connection, the ions will all go to the magnesium and not the copper. Hence it is called a sacrificial anode.
Alberto González I think one or two layers of teflon tape will be cut through when the anode is tightened. This will make some metal-to-metal contact. Any more layers of teflon will possibly prevent an electrical connection. It's a judgment call.
You've probably had a new water heater installed by now. FWIW: My own water heater started delivering lukewarm water. I replaced my dip tube. That fixed the problem
Mine has a 5/8in bolt, problem is its not a hex head it only has 4 sides and it's recessed. Ever seen this? I ordered a replacement rod or I thought I did but it is a hex head. Hoefully it matches but how do i get my old 1 out?
If it is necessary to change the rod every two or so years, then why is my 1987 tank in So. CA (very hard water) still working with no changed rod? Bad science or a money-making scam? The dip tube fell off a few days ago and I'll fix it (thanks to your help!) when the new one arrives. Hopefully working on the tank won't cause it to start leaking. Last year, I looked in the tank (inspection scope) when I replaced the tiny drain valve with a 3/4" straight ball valve. The tank looked as good as new - no rust and no scale. Lots of sediment though. It is a Reliance 501 natural gas 30 gal. tank.
Tanks where made way better back then. Keep that tank as long as you can. Have you seen this video it may interest you. ua-cam.com/video/OHDsNtGXEEY/v-deo.html
Yes, tanks were made much better back then. In fact, all appliances were. They are now making them all complicated, with new features to make them more desirable, but with parts from China that must be shipped here, so they are all ultra lightweight. Which means, not durable. Also, most folks are planning on moving up to a larger home in 5-10 years so they never care about this. Sadly it's the same folks that preach about carbon footprints and greenhouse gasses that are buying appliances that last a few years, greatly defeating the little good they are doing in other ways.
does any one know if they still make the collapsable anod rods? and if they do where to buy them? local shops only have flexible rods, and not enough clearence with them. i dont want to cut the connections. the last owners of the house put the shut off valve like 6 inchs above the tank. any help would be great! ( please help lol ) Thanks!
I have a Jet Glass water heater that was here in the house when I bought it 19 years ago and I can't find the anode rod anywhere on the top, does anyone know where it could be?
@@MrJpierre1000 New heater? Must feel great. I've seen advice to replace the anode rod every four years. I'm too weak to remove the anode rod on my 16 y.o. heater, so taking a cute from other diy geeks, I'm buying a $40 impact wrench from Walmart.
I don't think that they are around. If your old rod is shot you could cut a new one off to a length that will fit in. If the old one is shot part of a new one is better then nothing. If you did this you may need to just change it more often.
Rheem does like they all do I'm sure, puts them in needlessly tight. The plastic sleeve they put around the nut is too small for an impact socket to fit, so you have to pry out the plastic sleeve. So I got a 7.5 amp corded impact wrench and it took it off without even breathing hard. Get ready to hacksaw the new one to length. Despite the manufacturers best effort I did it. And drain a gallon the first day of every month!
You should mention in your excellent video to also. Run your hot water before turning the gas or electricity and water supply back on. This will ensure your tank has no air in it.
I'll 2nd, 3rd, whatever that the Teflon tape wraps in the opposite direction of tightening. Theory is, the (slight) friction of the female threads will tend to wrap tighter rather than unwrap.
its an anode it does not have to have contact the tank , it made of softer metal so the minerals are attracted to it instead of the tank and elements. contact with the tank has no bearing on what it does or how it works. the threads of the rod would not make better contact with one type sealant than another. an anode would work if it was suspended in the water by somthing non conductive
Many turns of Teflon tape will prevent contact with the hot water heater. This is needed for a proper electrical chemical reaction to occur. Else the Anode rod will be useless. (I saw in another video)
So my shower is giving off a Burnt smell it's quite nasty I went swimming and it made my hair REAK like the water in my shower and gave off the same nasty burning smell I almost threw up! Could it be the anode rod still??? Ps sorry on fiances UA-cam account just want to know thanks!
I've heard from plumbers say not to use teflon tape on the seal for the screw for the rods, and that it cancels the effect of the rod. They say to use plumbers putty instead. Anyone here this? It makes sense, that the metal should be touching metal.
Even after 13yrs of your videos is still go back to look at your advice. GOD BLESS Shannon
Been watching this channel for years. By far the best, most straightforward DIY channel on UA-cam without all the BS.
Very clear... concise information. No out-of-topic details... no insanely loud metal music in the background competing with the speaker's voice. Others should take notes... That's how you do it! Thank you for this video.
The best explanation so far. The importance of Teflon tape and leaving enough exposed threading is very important for a continuous circuit. Thank you!
Not only do you explain (thoroughly) how to perform this easy maintenance, you also explain other things to look for and do to extend the life of your water heater. You, sir, are awesome.
Thanks Shannon. I just got an estimate of $183 from the plumber to change out the rod. Think I'll do it myself for about $30. Thanks for saving me some money
Mine wanted $225. Ridiculous! I'm looking for another plumber or will do it myself as well. Don't know if I'm strong enough to remove it.
@@alive-awake You'll find out.
You said the dip tube is on the hot side but it's actually on the cold side inlet. Its main purpose is to direct the cold water to the bottom of the tank and that's where it is dispersed. Also, you wrapped the teflon tape in the wrong direction. Other than that, you did a great job. Thanks for your videos.
Hey Shannon, just found your dip tube video. Great job on the video. The cut-a-way was a terrific way of not only showing what you are doing but why. Thank you so much for taking the time to video these entire repairs. You are saving a lot of people a lot of money.
Thank you for not embedding background music!!! You rock!!
I enjoy your videos, not being a wise guy, the air in the water heater has to be bled out before turning an electric water heater on or you could possibly ruin the upper heating element if not surrounded with water. This can be accomplished by opening a hot water faucet or raising the lever on the pressure relief valve. Thanks for taking time to make the videos, they are really informative. :)
Was thinking the same thing, very important detail, thanks for bring it up
Yes, except the water heater he demonstrated was clearly a gas water heater, not electric.
Thanks Shannon. I like your videos because it is like an older, wiser Ryan telling me what to do. And because it isn't Ryan he knows what to do ;)
Thanks Chris. BTW others have noticed that I put the teflon on in wrong direction as well, good eye. It does work that way obviously but threads nicer as you know, when installed the other way. Thanks for watching
Sharing some thoughts! I'm pretty handy and after three and a half years I decided to give the anode rod a checking out on my GE 60 gallon water heater that was installed in January 2011. I decided also to contact my local plumber thinking that if I were to run into a problem he would give some assistance and parts should something go wrong. We both tackled this problem using the 1/16 socket and a breaker bar on a half inch ratchet. This would not budge the bolt. Then, that night I sprayed the bolt with some WD40 and called him back - this time bringing his socket hammer driver. This a drill like device - 1/2 inch driver - and for the likes of us both - the bolt would not budge. Even worse, looking at the top of the nut down an inch deep into the water heater top… the surface of the bolt is an unbelievable 1/4 inch for the socket to fit onto. This is truly an impossible job. The manufacturer of the water heater is determined NOT to have this rod replaced by anyone! So, my water heater has a 12 year warranty and that will be that! Don't blame your plumber if he/she can't get this anode rod out… it appears that it was built to stay put! Good luck if you try this "Simple repair"
selwocc
I've run into that same scenario. I can't for the life of me get that bolt to turn. I've invested in 1) the socket, 2) a breaker bar, and 3) a new rod. It seems to be money wasted!
The bolt is installed so that it cannot be removed. The water heater manufacturers want to sell you a new heater!
Did you call your manufacturer and ask if it was built to last 12 years? Years ago I had a well drilled and water tested. Great water with almost NO minerals and NO organics (Texas- oil wells) like benzine and toluene. But water pH was 5.0. What did that mean? It was "aggressive" in the water industry parlance. Anywhere I had a brass or copper/galvanized fitting interface, I had a pinhole leak in 12 to 18 months!
@@GoogleAccount-cj6gy I did the same. Already had some 2 or 2.5" conduit for breaker bar, but I wasted probably 45 bucks or so...
Some manufactures are now making " collapsible " style rods that kind of look like sausage links all hooked together and they make it much easier.
THE best video ever made about water heater. Very professional, very clear.
Only thing miss is: what is an Anode rode used for? I need to Google it to find out.
Thanks Shannon. Great job!
Try google, search for rode anode
Thank you Sir. I appreciate the time you have taken to put this together. You and your family have Happy Holidays.
Nice video - You do a great job explain the whys and hows of this job. One addition I suggest is to open a hot water valve (preferably on the upper story) when draining water from the heater. This lets it drain a lot better. As for other periodic maintenance, I also open my pressure relief valve once a year. This increases it's chances of not being cemented shut if and when I need it to work. Thanks for a great video.
I appreciate all your videos. I've successfully completed several projects thanks to them
It takes at LEAST a heavy duty 3/4" drive impact wrench to crack those threads lose on original equipment anode rods. Them things are usually in so tight that we have to put a four foot long cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive breaker bar with impact socket and a helper trying to stop the water heater from rotating. I've even considered using an acetylene torch.
Here's a HUGE tip! We feed the cold supply into the BOTTOM of the tank! We remove the boiler drain, put in a nipple, tee, boiler drain and feed supply into top (middle) of tee. This assures that no calcium or lime build up occurs on bottom of tank. People NEVER remember to flush their water heater. This takes care of that for them. We install a SECOND anode rod where the original water feed was. All in all, I'd guess this would at least double the expected life and serviceability of their water heater's tank. We've had inspectors squabble - but they soon learned this installation not only meets code, but is the preferred method of at least Bradford White and AO Smith. I think the bottom fill keeping the bottom of the tank clean will help prevent people from turning up their water temperature to compensate for short-cycling that had been caused by build-up. That higher temperature causes build-up at an accelerated rate, clogging their distribution piping. Accelerated sacrifice of the anode rod, as well. That's THREE, count 'em 3 - huge benefits to this method. Neat, huh?
This is amazing.
Way smart! Thanks!
This video helped me change the anode rod on my water heater. Very informative! Keep up the good work!
Good video...straight forward....have a 40 gal GE tank, only 7 yrs old, decided to change anode rod. Broke that anode nut loose.....but come to find out that it was stripping the threads in the tank boss as well as the threads on the old anode nut. Forget about going to Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace/NAPA/Auto Zone to find a 3/4"-14 thread chaser to clean out the damaged thread. Part I....limited by characters.
Teflon tape should be wrapped the other direction, and my anode needed a serious impact wrench to remove
Wrong! Always wrap the tape clockwise, righty tighty ....( which he did)or it will leak
@@wrzl1675 I think he was right. Wrapping counterclockwise should ensure it does not fold/tear up when screwing back in. Clockwise wrapping can possibly get torn up.
@Donald Humphrey *You are right, "The other direction"* do not hire a plumber who does not know how to put a Teflon tape!!!
@@1benny09 he did it correctly.
He did it right.
Cost of doing this myself:
$20 anode rod, from Amazon
$75 impact wrench (1/2") and socket set
Still cheaper than hiring a plumber!
Time required:
25 minutes trying to shut off the water supply valve that hasn't been closed in 25 yrs
1 minute removing old rod
5 minutes sawing some length off the new rod so it will make the ceiling clearance
1 minute tightening in the new rod.
For me it was $23 Amazon rod
25 min. trying to find water cutoff
water cutoff broke off due to age, water all over me and crawl space.
$100 water bill due to excessive use
Plumber after hours $400 to fix valve. Extra $100 to install the rod but no guarantee as I didn't purchase from him.
Plumber noticed water heater was starting to leak, replaced, for $879.
Sold house cheap because crawl space was wet.
Yes, adding Teflon tape is great, especially when you wrap it the right way. Nowadays, the standard in the the plumbing world is also to apply pipe sealant like “Leak Loc” over the tape.
I would say that every couple of years would be fine but it really depends on your water quality and usage. It could be necessary to change the low boy more often but pull it out and check it to see the condition.
That does seem like a lot of teflon tape. Kind of surprised the threads will catch where the tape is. Seems it would be pushed up away from the threads and serve more as a gasket than a thread sealant.
Anyway, not sure if this has been mentioned as to electric heaters, but people should always make sure the top element is covered with water before turning the power back on. This will save the element. You don't want cold water hitting a hot element.
Shannon, any reason why you should NOT use an impact wrench?
Shannon, please show us more on the hot water tank and the in floor heating system that we got a glimpse of in this video. How it's hooked up and all....Thanks
Good job, well done! Teflon tape should be wrapped in the opposite direction. 3 or 4 turn is sufficient.
Does it really matter which way the tape is wrapped. I don't think it will unwrap when screwing the rod back into the tank
Good video. One thing you forgot to do, and is a required building code in all states is to use dielectric fittings. One on the cold water inlet and one on hot water outlet. The fittings in the tank are steel. When you connect the copper pipes to those steel fittings rust much like the rod you just replaced tends to build up at this point. These fittings have a nylon pressure barrier that doesn’t let the steel and copper touch. Water and metals of all types don’t get along rust always wins. We can only delay the rust but never eliminate it. That’s why the rod was invented and these dielectric fittings. To better understand this look up dielectric fittings and why they are used. Remember, these are mandatory building code requirements for all states.
Hey, nice video. I appreciate this and I learned something today! Thanks.
Rocky, just a homeowner in Indiana
I had to rewatch my video...and you are right I did go backwards.
Does it really matter which way the tape is wrapped. I don't think it will unwrap when screwing the rod back into the tank.
Very good presentation! Thank you! Your instructions were clear and simple.
Great video. Everything explained really clear.
2:38 Use Impact wrench. It will make your job easy.
Great video! Do you have a video for replacing the dip tube you mentioned?
Changeing down to smaller heater can effect the amount of hot water you have at anyone time on hand for use. The sizes you are refering to are very large for a typical family home but a multi family duplex or small appartment building would require this size, so talk to a plumber about "sizing" the heater for the amount of use you have and that will let you know the minimum size you need. Anodes should be the same in most heaters, gas or electric.
Thoughts on using an impact wrench? My electric one is rated a 350 ftlbs. Would that work better than a 2ft breaker bar?
Yes.
@@taterlysaladman9377 Use the ratchet only when
installing.
I just found your videos. AWESOME. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge !
Great help Shannon, thank you!!!!
+Mr Great help!!! you're welcome, be sure to check out our other water heater videos.
Can you do a video on the new water heaters where the anode is inside the hot water line? Bradford Whites does not have a little cap anymore that you can just remove and pull out the anode. On the new ones, you have to remove the hot water line on the top to get to the anode.
I only have 30" of height from the top of the water heater to the inside of the roof. How can I replace the rod w/o moving the whole water heater?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
You can cut the rod as short as you need to. But because there will be less rod material to be used up, you will have to change it more often.
There's rods that are in links/sections so they're easy to install.
When you pull out the old one you can clamp it, then cut it and repeat to remove. Then buy the folded segmented rod. No need to pull out in one piece. But be very careful to not allow any to fall back in.
Thanks for the video it is very informative. My water heater instruction manual, that I found online, doesn't tell me the specs of the anode rod. What can I do?
None of them do. It's because they just change parts willy nilly when they make water heaters, and don't want anyone demanding a new rod that is the proper length. Make your life easier too, stop making promises.
Great video and very well explained. I had never even thought about replacing my anode rod until I notice how expensive water heaters have become. They've nearly tripled in price since I bought mine9 years ago. You really like your teflon tape though. Holy cow,! :) It should come out nice and easy next time though.
I'm absolutely convinced that my water heater is toast. So much so that I haven't even checked the rod or flushed it before buying a new water heater that I have standing by. I haven't had any trouble but I haven't checked it in 10 years and I have no idea how old it was when I got this place. I'm pretty sure once I flush the sediment (or concrete, whichever it is by now) and try to remove the rod, I will void the grace period I'm living under.
Those are some great suggestions ,thanks
From some other videos I've seen the anode rod is under a cover that has to be removed from the top of some water heaters. Maybe that's one reason some people can't find theirs?
Due to a minimal height space in my hot water closet - I am substituting the old straight rod for a flexible anode Rod. Do I have to cut a part of one of the links to the same measurement as the one I am replacing?
I have a bock oil fired there are two caps on top labeled anode, are there two anodes?
sounds like it, I could not say for sure.
This is a tough one, can I call for a lifeline? OK. Here goes. The final answer please. Yes, there are indeed two anodes. Very tricky!
I also have the Bock tank (model 32E) and yes there are two anode rods.
Thanks! Are the rods make specific? Or are they basically generic?
Hi Shannon,thanks for the good video I have a question? Is it ok to replace a 119 gallon water heater down to 80 gall?& what is the diff.commercial or residential water or house water heater ? & anode rod for the gas vs elec.is not the same right?
Very nice job and very helpful. Thank you!
tank life can vary depending on what type of water you have. some water sources agressively attack the anode and you will get a sulphur odour. anodes made of aluminum instead of magnesium are installed in this case. many tanks use an anode which is part of the hot water out fitting,there is no anode marking on the top. most tanks never get the anode changed during their life.
Do you have a water softener? I don't. Does that require service to water heater more frequently with hard water?
I don't have a water softener.Hard water will generally be harder on the components and leave more deposits.
@@HouseImprovements I was afraid you'd say that. Thanks for your response
Good vid- how do you know when to replace your anode rod? Do you wait for a symptom or is the rule every few years. Also my heater is 6 years old what other maintenance should be done?
By now the water heater has likely murdered anyone that used it. No need to discuss further.
I have a 20 year old Apollo 5010 water heater. I know I need to have both the anode rod and dip tube replaced. I can see the dip tube is on the cold water supply pipe inside the water heater. However, there is no anode rod top bolt at the atop of the water heater. Does that mean I have to replace the water heater?
Does the replacing the anode rod extend the life of the tank past the manufacturers warranty? Is that why tanks go bad around the 8th or 9th year sometimes and burst or rust out and wake you up at 3am with water all over your basement? (like it did me this morning)
No that happened because you did something very bad.
Hi shannon That is probably why all my hot washers faucet going bad on every faucet my heater was probably installed in the late 90' What do you think and where to get a new anode rod ?
I think that's why he said to apply the teflon tape to the "top half of the threads" so ground continuity would be maintained. But I can't see any problem with using plumbers dope. That appears to be what was on it when it was originally installed. But I don't know about putty with the heat requirements necessary for it to endure.
Hi Shannon, I openned the water release valve, but no water comes out. I have shut the water supply. Thanks
I am very concerned about opening the drain valve on the water heater. Can I change the rod without draining the tank. I would think shutting the cold water and opening up the hot water faucets would release any pressure in the tank. Does that sound dangerous?
Probably because you didn't drain the water heater every 30 days over the last 15 years and you know the poltergeists will be coming out to get you.
While the rod is remove. Can I use the hole to pour peroxide in the tank to disinfect it ?
I suppose , not sure peroxide is a good choice though??
I read that here : www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2015/02/fix-rotten-egg-smell-in-your-water/
Would have been REAL NICE to show how hard it was to take the anode out and why you needed a 2nd man to hold the tank
Probably the second man was running the camera. ;)
Great video. Too much Teflon tape is more likely to leak. I understand why you might think otherwise, but it is not some kind of adhesive. I gets compressed. If a seat belt is too loose or too tight it won't work well. Same idea for the Teflon tape. 2 or 3 times around is enough. 4 or 5 max.
Thanks for the info!
ya i dont think they are either,Thanks though! found your channel yesterday and love it already!
Won't the Teflon tape electrically insulate the rod from the tank defeating the purpose of having the rod there?
the anode is there to prevent rust. just like on big steel boats, dams, some docks and so on.. as far as i know it does not need to be insulated or not insulated.. its the metal itself (zink i believe) that does the work, not the charge. correct me if im wrong anyone. im a marine tech and this is what ive been taught.
Paul griffith The anode must be electrically connected to the tank. When the water "tries" to oxidize the steel tank, the electrons flow from the rod instead of from the steel. So the rod gets sacrificed but it prevents the steel from rusting.
he left a few threads without tape if you see the video
Yes Omega Man.......good to see someone who is attentive. Also does anyone think that the tape is tough enough to act as a gasket between the threads? No it simply deforms into the gaps between the threads. 99.9 percent of the threads will be electrically connected. Engineers have worked this out! The rods are supplied here in Australia with a good amount of PTFE tape. They work perfectly. Happy Days.
I feel that you are wrong about anode and tank needing to be connected. The minerals that cause corrosion need ions or charged particles to do the work. They will attack the easiest metal first .... like Mg**, Al***, or Zn**. Iron or Fe** is the most difficult to attack and will only be attacked when these sacrificials are used up.
couple of points 1> DONT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH, you will break the glass/porcelain insulation 2> release the preassure but DONT drain, you need the tank to be heavy so it doesnt twist
great video, very helpful info.
I can't find the anode rod on my water heater. There are only 3 holes on the top. 1 each for cold & hot water line and 3rd for pressure relief valve? Can you suggest a solution?
Thanks,
the dip tube is on the cold water side. It is usually plastic and doesn't need changed. Bradford-white usually have the anode rod as part of the hot side. I agree way too much teflon.
the plastic Dip tube does need changing periodically depending on your water conditions.Look for my video.
Anode rod can be in two different locations depending on the manufacture. As for the teflon tape amount ....matter of opinion I guess? LOL.
Some dispute below about the "grounding" of the anode. The theory is that the magnesium must be electrically connected to the steel and copper connections at the top. Without the electrical connection, the bi-metallic corrosion will occur on the copper-steel parts. It will rust out and leak! I learned this the hard way. With an electrical connection, the ions will all go to the magnesium and not the copper. Hence it is called a sacrificial anode.
Meaning that no teflon tape should be used?
Alberto González I think one or two layers of teflon tape will be cut through when the anode is tightened. This will make some metal-to-metal contact. Any more layers of teflon will possibly prevent an electrical connection. It's a judgment call.
ok, we have replaced our thermostat and our element, tested all electrical lines and the breaker, we still have no hot water, what could this be?
Did you pay the bill?
You've probably had a new water heater installed by now. FWIW:
My own water heater started delivering lukewarm water. I replaced my dip tube. That fixed the problem
Mine has a 5/8in bolt, problem is its not a hex head it only has 4 sides and it's recessed. Ever seen this? I ordered a replacement rod or I thought I did but it is a hex head. Hoefully it matches but how do i get my old 1 out?
Use a 12 point socket.
You may have forgot to mention: I've read on another site that your anode composition selection depends on if your water is super hard or not.
If it is necessary to change the rod every two or so years, then why is my 1987 tank in So. CA (very hard water) still working with no changed rod? Bad science or a money-making scam?
The dip tube fell off a few days ago and I'll fix it (thanks to your help!) when the new one arrives. Hopefully working on the tank won't cause it to start leaking. Last year, I looked in the tank (inspection scope) when I replaced the tiny drain valve with a 3/4" straight ball valve. The tank looked as good as new - no rust and no scale. Lots of sediment though. It is a Reliance 501 natural gas 30 gal. tank.
Tanks where made way better back then. Keep that tank as long as you can. Have you seen this video it may interest you. ua-cam.com/video/OHDsNtGXEEY/v-deo.html
Yes, tanks were made much better back then. In fact, all appliances were. They are now making them all complicated, with new features to make them more desirable, but with parts from China that must be shipped here, so they are all ultra lightweight. Which means, not durable. Also, most folks are planning on moving up to a larger home in 5-10 years so they never care about this. Sadly it's the same folks that preach about carbon footprints and greenhouse gasses that are buying appliances that last a few years, greatly defeating the little good they are doing in other ways.
Thanks- very helpful.
There seems to be different sizes of the anode rod. Not the length but the thickness. How do I tell which size I have?
I have not noticed that? It can't be any bigger then the nut on top of the heater cause it has to fit the hole
Could you do it on a real install where you usually only have a foot of clearance at the top?
Are you in an igloo?
Thank you very helpful
How long the water heater need to change the anode rod ?
Depends on your water but I would check it after a couple years to see how its doing.
does any one know if they still make the collapsable anod rods? and if they do where to buy them? local shops only have flexible rods, and not enough clearence with them. i dont want to cut the connections. the last owners of the house put the shut off valve like 6 inchs above the tank. any help would be great! ( please help lol )
Thanks!
6:18 your dip tube is not in your hot water pipe, it's in the cold water side.
I have a Jet Glass water heater that was here in the house when I bought it 19 years ago and I can't find the anode rod anywhere on the top, does anyone know where it could be?
sorry no idea.
Did you find it inside of the hot water line that is on top of your tank?
@@janelensch6168 I replaced the water heater 2 years ago so I don't have to worry about it anymore.
@@MrJpierre1000 New heater? Must feel great. I've seen advice to replace the anode rod every four years. I'm too weak to remove the anode rod on my 16 y.o. heater, so taking a cute from other diy geeks, I'm buying a $40 impact wrench from Walmart.
Thank you, very nice.
I don't think that they are around. If your old rod is shot you could cut a new one off to a length that will fit in. If the old one is shot part of a new one is better then nothing. If you did this you may need to just change it more often.
Good job. Some people say it is better to replace the rod with magnesium or zinc rod.For a longer life span. Does anyone agree with this ?
Lasts longer yes. Aluminum for stinky well water. Others, magnesium.
How old was that anode rod you took out?
It was originally used by George Washington.
Rheem does like they all do I'm sure, puts them in needlessly tight. The plastic sleeve they put around the nut is too small for an impact socket to fit, so you have to pry out the plastic sleeve. So I got a 7.5 amp corded impact wrench and it took it off without even breathing hard. Get ready to hacksaw the new one to length. Despite the manufacturers best effort I did it. And drain a gallon the first day of every month!
You should mention in your excellent video to also.
Run your hot water before turning the gas or electricity and water supply back on. This will ensure your tank has no air in it.
@HouseImprovements Mine is electric heater,,but I looked at the serial number ,,it's starts with 02 so i guess it's 2002. Thanks.
I'll 2nd, 3rd, whatever that the Teflon tape wraps in the opposite direction of tightening. Theory is, the (slight) friction of the female threads will tend to wrap tighter rather than unwrap.
I tested your theory on the wife. It did NOT get tighter, and she is still finding pieces of teflon tape.
good one, thank you...
Welldone, I did it and no problems... superkool...
thanks good video
How can I tell when my water heater was installed?
When you get the bill from the plumber. Or you might see a large man with an unkept beard and mucho crack exposed in your house.
its an anode it does not have to have contact the tank , it made of softer metal so the minerals are attracted to it instead of the tank and elements. contact with the tank has no bearing on what it does or how it works. the threads of the rod would not make better contact with one type sealant than another. an anode would work if it was suspended in the water by somthing non conductive
I've had this problem and based on what I've read, the anode rod needs to be aluminum/zinc alloy to solve this problem, not just aluminum.
Many turns of Teflon tape will prevent contact with the hot water heater. This is needed for a proper electrical chemical reaction to occur. Else the Anode rod will be useless. (I saw in another video)
So my shower is giving off a Burnt smell it's quite nasty I went swimming and it made my hair REAK like the water in my shower and gave off the same nasty burning smell I almost threw up! Could it be the anode rod still??? Ps sorry on fiances UA-cam account just want to know thanks!
Obviously some small animal has lodged itself inside your water heater and is slowly burning.
I've heard from plumbers say not to use teflon tape on the seal for the screw for the rods, and that it cancels the effect of the rod. They say to use plumbers putty instead. Anyone here this? It makes sense, that the metal should be touching metal.
I really wanted to see you loosen that baby. I have the breaker bar plus a extension pipe!
ya they can get really tight
I thought dip tubes were on the cold side. I think you mentioned they're on the hot side.
Different sides of the equator.