I was a sucker by a painter/contractor. Mine started peeling after months. I'm stuck now having to replace it. It was grooved cedar (vertical grooves) so I can't sand it and it was fine for 40 years prior w/o rotting or damage.
I paint many cedar siding outsides that have 8 inch tall boards. These outsides were sadly sprayed on one side while the back isn't primed. I use a broad knife to scrape loose paint, sand with 36 grit sandpaper nail down loose boards, caulk with vulkum and prime with XIM or Peel bond from Halman Lindsey or Sherwin-Williams. I finish coat with Woodscapes by brushing and rolling the final coat. In a perfect world those boards should be primed on the back and Tyvac behind it, but in the 90's things were done fast and as cheap as possible.
This is exactly what was done to my house that I bought 10 years ago I'm just peeling off and scraping as much of the stuff on the bottom of the cedar shakes and on the face that's peeling and applying stain the same color good and thick over everything so it soaks it all in and then as time goes on I'm just going to continue to peel paint and stain over peel paint and staying over etc I'm thinking it's the easiest thing to do because the stain will actually get behind the loose paint and as the paint peels I can add more stain since I'm doing it myself I don't care about the waste of time. It's going to look much better than what it looks like now because there's a lot of peeling already happening and it's going to destroy the cedar if it's not sealed with the stain.
Great info! I have a ranch built in 1994 sided in all Redwood. The previous owner painted the Redwood siding. OMG! Never ever paint wood. Wood was always meant to be stained.
Would season flex by Sherwin work? The paint flexes somewhat. They paint a nurf football as a demo at the store. Also, what do you think of zinzer pealstop, it's a triple think primer.
What you really are comparing is peeling vs fading. Once it starts peeling it doesn't matter what paint you put on top it will peeling in a couple years after it starts. Stain will just fade so you can wash and restain and it will look fresh and new again
My recommendation would be to use an oil based stain to block any tannin bleeds and then apply a solid color acrylic siding stain. You'll want to work in the primer and stain to ensure proper application so there are no air pockets between the stain and the wood.
Thank you for the question. It sounds like your cedar shake is vinyl. I would use a vinyl safe paint with vinyl safe colorants. I have another video talking about vinyl siding. I would recommend Sherwin-Williams Resilience Paint in a satin sheen and let them know it will be going on vinyl so they can use vinyl safe colorants.
I want to repaint my house but I’m not sure how to prep and what material I should use. I’m fairly sure it is stain that’s currently on it because it has been there for a very long time and is beat up and peeling. I would assume if it was painted it would be completely gone by now. So, can I remove the flaking stain and then go over with new stain? Or do I need to use the oil based primer + paint?
If I saw a picture of your siding I could give you better advice. The areas that are peeling you will need to scrape, use oil primer and then a solid color stain. That's only if it is stain on the house currently. Paint would still be holding in different areas so the amount of peeling doesn't necessarily say it's stain or paint. You can send me a pic at mike at paintgr .com and I'll get back to you. Thanks!
I enjoyed your video but I have to tell you I painted cedar casings around our windows 6" with paint and no primer and 18 yrs. later when I didn't want the color on the casings any longer we COULDN'T get the paint off. But, ours is rough cut wood not smooth finish do you think that made the difference?
With rough cut cedar you are not able to sand off the previous coating without getting rid of the rough cut look of the wood. You can clean the surface, spot oil prime any bare wood and re-coat it though.
@@mikebeaulieu8872 The paint stuck for 18 years and when I wanted to get it off to change it to naturally finish we had to use a wire wheel brush to get the paint off, it did not chip or peel any where in 18 years. I did fade to a dfferent color but never peeled.
@@cactusladysouth1000, unfortunately the best option would be to "sand blast" the previous coating off. Using corn kernels would probably be the best option. You should contact a sandblasting company for a quote for removal of the coating. Good luck!
I'm in this same situation at my house. This time around, I bought a paint shaver and I'm taking it back to bare red cedar. What product should I use to keep the natural color nice and bright?
@@justindoan6798 , I'm not too familiar with that product. You could go with a natural toner in the Sherwin Williams Woodscapes product. Natural toner has just a hint of tint, to offer more UV protection and it has the same look of the wood when it is wet.
A good layer primer will make paint last longer, I painted my cedar siding 10 years ago and never got peeling or fading issues so far, To me looks like the painter just used cheap paint without even priming first, then you will have this issue. For stain the layer of wood will still peal off, But because it penetrates wood a little the color change will not be so apparent
It also depends what part of the country you live in. In the Midwest, we go through hot humid summers and and then dry cold winters. This causes the cedar to move more than what a good primer and paint can hold. If you have good luck with it then you're lucky because in Michigan, where I'm from, I've seen way too many peeling paint on cedar. I'd always prefer fade to peeling.
Cedar is a soft wood and is more porous than some other woods. The typical old lap siding is a semi-hardwood or even a pinewood. They do not absorb stain the same way and was meant to be painted. Cedar siding is made to be stained.
@@newlookpaintingcompanyllco9209 thank you so much!!! We have wood siding that’s been solid stained. On the areas of our home that sun hits, the stain has worn away. We are about to have it painted or stained and deciding on which to do! Thank you for your reply to my question. They would prime first if they painted or if the stained they’d use a solid stain product.
@@justatitle personally I prefer the fade of stain over the peeled levels of paint. Stain does require more maintenance. Around every 7-12 years will the house need to be stained.
@@newlookpaintingcompanyllco9209 if we take off our siding on our new build. Right above garage and tip of house basically. If we take it off and do cedar siding. Do we stain and then put a waterproof thing on top? Or just let it fade and re stain
@@Ilovemyprincesslexi I would just use the stain. The stain that goes on cedar siding is different from the stain you do on interior items or even doors. The exterior siding stains is both a stain and sealer. I would use the exterior stain and look at washing and refreshing every 7 - 12 years. My preferred brand is the Cabot Solid Color Acrylic Siding Stain. Next would be Benjamin Moore's siding stain and the Sherwin Williams Woodscape line.
And if you had any kind of a clue you wouldn’t be using a scraper. You would use infrared heat and make short work of removing all of the bad paint job so it could be properly sealed with linseed or my personal favorite tung oil. Both of which can be applied with a pump sprayer and brushes and rags. Farmers also often used K1 kero and old motor oil at 50/50 mix. It’s still used quite often today. We always paint the horse fences with it. Helps stop them from chewing for a year or so
you would be out of your mind to go through the work of staining a house to do it with linseed oil [organic and harbor mold] or motor oil [toxic as hell]. If someone is going through the trouble of stripping and staining their house they might as well use a product that the general population finds aesthetically pleasing and doesn’t kill resale value. Go tell your home owners insurance you coated your house in motor oil 😂
And why would they use a heat gun? They are stripping the loose paint, priming and painting, not stripping the house down. And besides, even if they were stripping the house most people are on a budget and don’t want to pay for a guy to spend Twice the time with a heat gun with they could sand it down in a day and be done.
I was a sucker by a painter/contractor. Mine started peeling after months. I'm stuck now having to replace it. It was grooved cedar (vertical grooves) so I can't sand it and it was fine for 40 years prior w/o rotting or damage.
I'm really sorry to hear that. I wish more painters understood the repercussions on doing the project wrong. Hope you get things resolved
I paint many cedar siding outsides that have 8 inch tall boards. These outsides were sadly sprayed on one side while the back isn't primed. I use a broad knife to scrape loose paint, sand with 36 grit sandpaper nail down loose boards, caulk with vulkum and prime with XIM or Peel bond from Halman Lindsey or Sherwin-Williams. I finish coat with Woodscapes by brushing and rolling the final coat.
In a perfect world those boards should be primed on the back and Tyvac behind it, but in the 90's things were done fast and as cheap as possible.
This is exactly what was done to my house that I bought 10 years ago I'm just peeling off and scraping as much of the stuff on the bottom of the cedar shakes and on the face that's peeling and applying stain the same color good and thick over everything so it soaks it all in and then as time goes on I'm just going to continue to peel paint and stain over peel paint and staying over etc I'm thinking it's the easiest thing to do because the stain will actually get behind the loose paint and as the paint peels I can add more stain since I'm doing it myself I don't care about the waste of time. It's going to look much better than what it looks like now because there's a lot of peeling already happening and it's going to destroy the cedar if it's not sealed with the stain.
Great info! I have a ranch built in 1994 sided in all Redwood. The previous owner painted the Redwood siding. OMG! Never ever paint wood. Wood was always meant to be stained.
You're absolutely correct!
if you never painted wood, everyones siding would be wood colored. i dont get it. Just use a sealing primer. Paint will always looks good
What is the proper way to apply solid stain to new cedar siding? Is an oil based primer helpful or not in this situation? Thank you.
2 coats of solid stain should work
Would season flex by Sherwin work? The paint flexes somewhat. They paint a nurf football as a demo at the store. Also, what do you think of zinzer pealstop, it's a triple think primer.
A good peel stop primer would be excellent. I've used Sherwin Williams Peel Bond primer with great success
I don’t know. Stain doesn’t make it last much longer supposedly, but if you keep repainting, it can last forever?
What you really are comparing is peeling vs fading. Once it starts peeling it doesn't matter what paint you put on top it will peeling in a couple years after it starts. Stain will just fade so you can wash and restain and it will look fresh and new again
I do see that problem to often, it make take longer than anticipated but it does happen...
What if you have previously put paint on cedar and I sanded all prior coating off back to bare wood. How do i then properly prep and stain?
My recommendation would be to use an oil based stain to block any tannin bleeds and then apply a solid color acrylic siding stain. You'll want to work in the primer and stain to ensure proper application so there are no air pockets between the stain and the wood.
We have plastic cedar shingles. We dislike the color. In your opinion should we paint them or use stain? Thank you.
Thank you for the question. It sounds like your cedar shake is vinyl. I would use a vinyl safe paint with vinyl safe colorants. I have another video talking about vinyl siding. I would recommend Sherwin-Williams Resilience Paint in a satin sheen and let them know it will be going on vinyl so they can use vinyl safe colorants.
@@newlookpaintingcompanyllco9209 Thank you.
I want to repaint my house but I’m not sure how to prep and what material I should use. I’m fairly sure it is stain that’s currently on it because it has been there for a very long time and is beat up and peeling. I would assume if it was painted it would be completely gone by now. So, can I remove the flaking stain and then go over with new stain? Or do I need to use the oil based primer + paint?
If I saw a picture of your siding I could give you better advice. The areas that are peeling you will need to scrape, use oil primer and then a solid color stain. That's only if it is stain on the house currently. Paint would still be holding in different areas so the amount of peeling doesn't necessarily say it's stain or paint. You can send me a pic at mike at paintgr .com and I'll get back to you. Thanks!
I enjoyed your video but I have to tell you I painted cedar casings around our windows 6" with paint and no primer and 18 yrs. later when I didn't want the color on the casings any longer we COULDN'T get the paint off. But, ours is rough cut wood not smooth finish do you think that made the difference?
With rough cut cedar you are not able to sand off the previous coating without getting rid of the rough cut look of the wood. You can clean the surface, spot oil prime any bare wood and re-coat it though.
@@mikebeaulieu8872 I think you missed my point I was saying to him that paint WILL stick to it if it is rough cut.
@@cactusladysouth1000, paint will stick but it will peel and flake off instead of fading like a solid color stain would.
@@mikebeaulieu8872 The paint stuck for 18 years and when I wanted to get it off to change it to naturally finish we had to use a wire wheel brush to get the paint off, it did not chip or peel any where in 18 years. I did fade to a dfferent color but never peeled.
@@cactusladysouth1000, unfortunately the best option would be to "sand blast" the previous coating off. Using corn kernels would probably be the best option. You should contact a sandblasting company for a quote for removal of the coating. Good luck!
I'm in this same situation at my house. This time around, I bought a paint shaver and I'm taking it back to bare red cedar. What product should I use to keep the natural color nice and bright?
Do you want a clear sealer or a solid color but in a stain?
@mikebeaulieu9116 clear. I started the front with a product called nano. It's clear but somehow offers uv protection
@@justindoan6798 , I'm not too familiar with that product. You could go with a natural toner in the Sherwin Williams Woodscapes product. Natural toner has just a hint of tint, to offer more UV protection and it has the same look of the wood when it is wet.
A good layer primer will make paint last longer, I painted my cedar siding 10 years ago and never got peeling or fading issues so far, To me looks like the painter just used cheap paint without even priming first, then you will have this issue. For stain the layer of wood will still peal off, But because it penetrates wood a little the color change will not be so apparent
It also depends what part of the country you live in. In the Midwest, we go through hot humid summers and and then dry cold winters. This causes the cedar to move more than what a good primer and paint can hold. If you have good luck with it then you're lucky because in Michigan, where I'm from, I've seen way too many peeling paint on cedar. I'd always prefer fade to peeling.
Good to know was just dumb curious about this
What is the difference between cedar siding and wood siding? Cedar is wood, but is it less porous?
Cedar is a soft wood and is more porous than some other woods. The typical old lap siding is a semi-hardwood or even a pinewood. They do not absorb stain the same way and was meant to be painted. Cedar siding is made to be stained.
@@newlookpaintingcompanyllco9209 thank you so much!!! We have wood siding that’s been solid stained. On the areas of our home that sun hits, the stain has worn away. We are about to have it painted or stained and deciding on which to do! Thank you for your reply to my question. They would prime first if they painted or if the stained they’d use a solid stain product.
@@justatitle personally I prefer the fade of stain over the peeled levels of paint. Stain does require more maintenance. Around every 7-12 years will the house need to be stained.
@@newlookpaintingcompanyllco9209 if we take off our siding on our new build. Right above garage and tip of house basically. If we take it off and do cedar siding. Do we stain and then put a waterproof thing on top? Or just let it fade and re stain
@@Ilovemyprincesslexi I would just use the stain. The stain that goes on cedar siding is different from the stain you do on interior items or even doors. The exterior siding stains is both a stain and sealer. I would use the exterior stain and look at washing and refreshing every 7 - 12 years. My preferred brand is the Cabot Solid Color Acrylic Siding Stain. Next would be Benjamin Moore's siding stain and the Sherwin Williams Woodscape line.
You should always prime bare wood and you would not have that problem.
Priming does help but I would still use a solid color stain. Paint lays on the top while the stain soaks into the surface.
This happened to my neighbor across the street.
It's the reason it is important that you find a knowledgeable painter for your house.
It needs to be stripped down to bare wood with paint shaver
It could be but you'd loose the rough cut cedar look
And if you had any kind of a clue you wouldn’t be using a scraper. You would use infrared heat and make short work of removing all of the bad paint job so it could be properly sealed with linseed or my personal favorite tung oil. Both of which can be applied with a pump sprayer and brushes and rags. Farmers also often used K1 kero and old motor oil at 50/50 mix. It’s still used quite often today. We always paint the horse fences with it. Helps stop them from chewing for a year or so
you would be out of your mind to go through the work of staining a house to do it with linseed oil [organic and harbor mold] or motor oil [toxic as hell]. If someone is going through the trouble of stripping and staining their house they might as well use a product that the general population finds aesthetically pleasing and doesn’t kill resale value. Go tell your home owners insurance you coated your house in motor oil 😂
And why would they use a heat gun? They are stripping the loose paint, priming and painting, not stripping the house down. And besides, even if they were stripping the house most people are on a budget and don’t want to pay for a guy to spend Twice the time with a heat gun with they could sand it down in a day and be done.
@@MavSalads-ey3ch There is no way you could tell if motor oil way used after a week or so.