I wanted to thank you for the time you spend making these videos. I'm new to this field and your videos have really help me out. Please keep up with the great work.
Ran Into a problem like this today on an 7FGU35 and I got stuck on the diag but I remembered watching this video before and remembered something similar/doing the same thing, cranking but not turning over.. except mine was missing the spark.. awesome video bro nothing but straight facts and knowledge!!!! Keep up the videos bro u help more ppl then u know or think! All the way from San antonio TX
Just watched your video and I have to say thank you for a video well done! I had a no start issue with my jurassic period Allis Chalmers. I had done a lot of what you showed already, but not the brake fluid into the carb trick, that is simple but effective. In the end what I did is clean the regulator and carb inside and out very well, propane lines too. Fired right up and got rid of my stress issues too! Thank YOU!!
It was brake cleaner not brake fluid. You have to be sure it is the flammable type too. If you use the CFC kind it doesn't work. Use starter fluid and be sure to stay away from the throttle body when you start it in case of flames from a back fire.
Thank you. I recently got a job as a forklift/maintenance position after working on the production welding/fab floor for 6 yrs. I look forward to videos like this to help me in my new position
hey buddy, thank you for sharing. I actually was working on this same lpg regulator at work the other day. The issue I had with this particular one was with the diaphragm. apparently after awhile, the oil they put into the propane to give it its smell can clog up and keep the diaphragm from working properly.
+Travis Johnson when you're spraying brake cleaner into the intake always have a fire extinguisher on hand as it may backfire. Something that I should have said in the video. Thanks for watching and always be safe.
Great Video! My problem was one of my morons had switched the "LP to GAS" switch. I spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot it and when you mentioned it, BAM! fixed :)
Unfortunately, price of solenoid was more than half the price of the regulator. So might as well replace the whole thing. But still up to the customer if he wants just the solenoid. In this case he opted for the regulator.
Polish up on your schematic and wiring diagrams, the electric trucks are what you want to tech on. It’s good to know recip’s but electric trucks are way more field serviceable and usually cleaner. Good luck
@@deborahchesser7375 I work for a company that services Raymond trucks and schematics and electrical in this industry I'm slowly but surely learning. Thanks for the advice. Like this industry more than cars!
After 35 years in this field I can give a little advice to you new guys...don’t jump off the dock and always have a 6”adjustable wrench in your pocket!
That's a very common problem on Toyota forklifts, usually I would just put my hand on the solenoid and crank it and you will feel it if it works. If you're not getting power to that connector it's most like the relay located under the fuse box.
the first thing to look at before you get any tools out on a duel fuel Toyota, is the truck switched to LPG if it's switched the GAS (petrol) it will crank but not start. you would be amazed how many people get cought out on this one ( myself included)
I have a cat gc18 no start, LPG i have changed the vaporizer and the lockoff, I also changed the oil pressure switch and I have 9 volts to the lockoff and no start, if I jump over voltage directly to lockoff the forklift starts and runs a few times, I also had battery checked by Napa and swapped starter with new and no fix, any ideas?
I’m thinking about getting back into it, I was a Raymond tech so I’m used to reading schematics and diagrams. Not sure if the body can handle it though. Good luck on retirement brother, enjoy
raymond in anchorage alaska sucks they are the worst come take the asshole who runs service out of here rob doesn’t know how to treat his customers or how to shut his mouth we won’t buy anymore raymond crap here
depending on the Gas regulator type the slow run solinoid is powered from a sensor in the distributor. if you have high gas flow to the carb ( mixer) the engine will crank but not start and the main valve seal inside the regulator.
+Andy Freeman the type of regulator would depend on the model of the forklift. the regulator you are referring to would be more likely in an 8 series. As far as high gas flow, yes it would produce the same symptom but exhaust would smell of unburned propane and adding external fuel source would not get the engine to start.
ok I see litle liquin from water came from radiator to conected to the regulator you think this is the problem and I have to refill radiator any 2 days thanks
I wonder if way back I had opportunity to benefit all these training I would be an excellent Mechanic today I have to Paid to fix my vehicle for any little problem.
Hey forklift geek, Thank you for the fun interesting videos. I appreciate solid diagnostic work. And the explanation is spot on. I have a toyota 7fgcu15 with a no start, I diagnosed it to a (what I thought was a faulty shutoff solenoid) but rather a no power to the shut off solenoid issue. Do you know what else is on that circuit? It powers the solenoid through the ignition switch, but without a schematic I do not know where the solenoid connecting wires come from. Thank you
ua-cam.com/video/bSvOp-zRlMQ/v-deo.html This one is a 7 series, but not all 7 series are wired this way. Some of them, the lock off is powered by a rev switch and the input is from the distributor.
@forkliftgeek10 I just watched that linked video. I will definitely look into that. I bypassed the main solenoid (in the regulator) to feed it voltage so it would open. Then that is when I discovered it would run, but this video could definitely be the final culprit or at least similar to the problem that I am having. Thank you again for the explanation.
I have this model lift won't start not get power from the fuse box to starter I'm thinking the neutral safety is bad as i have checked fuses and put in new relay but can't find neutral switch. Starts and runs fine jumping to starter.
This is good info, but we are dealing with a newer generation Regulator with dual solenoid lockouts. Getting an intemittent, NO START after the rig sits for a while. Same as yours it will try to run with starting fluid. Also breaking the flare connection coming out of the big lockout solenoid path, bleeding off some pressure and re-tightening may allow it to start. The Attending Forklift is also Puzzled by this one. S/N is 41051 Model 8FGU25. Any suggestions are helpful. Star
Sometimes the main solenoid (big one in the middle) gets stuck or the solenoid is already weak. When it is not starting try tapping on the solenoid and see if it starts.
OK Excellent. Tap on the secondary lockout on the REG when cranking and it start right up after prolonged NO START. Good Technique. Thanks. New Reg should solve this one.
So I have a propane floor buffer that is doing the exact same thing. It was running perfect until I dis connected the hose from the vaporizer to the carb and turned the propane valve on. I put the hose back on and now and it still will not start. I have bought a new vaporizer and solenoid and it will not start. Any ideas if that made sense?
+Solomon Smith when an engine does not start it can only be missing a few things, spark, fuel, air, timing and compression. I'd start with spark and fuel. Check if the solenoid is getting power.
Hey there. I have a tusk forklift. It is made by Komatsu. I just purchased it this morning and drove it on the trailer as well as off the trailer. While backing it off the trailer it hit the ground pretty hard and I drove it into the shop. I shut it off and it never started back up after that. The guy mentioned he cleaned the regulator to get the machine back running again. I have to assume that somehow the regulator is failing. It seems to be forcing a enormous amount of propane into the system when I turn the key key on. It acts like it wants to start but it just won't do it. Do I need to replace the entire regulator? It's blowing the excess propane out of a small vacuum size line off the side of the regulator that goes to the intake tube.
@forkliftgeek I'm having a minor issue with my Mitsubishi propane forklift. Seems lately I have to stomp the gas pedal to the floor to get it to start. Could that also be the solenoid or should i look at injectors?
I sprayed starter fluid and our FL started right up. It when I checked the fuel supply the gas didn’t come out as hard as yours did. It did a little more but I had to keep opening it. Any advice?
Hey man I have a Toyota. I sprayed starter fluid inside and it just cranks and tries to start but never catches. It’s got spark but it looks a little weak. Could it be the distributor cap? It’s got new plugs in it. What should I look fir on the cap ?
Worn contacts in the cap. The cap is not the only part that produce a weak spark though. The rotor, ignition coil, ignition module, and cables are all suspect.
thanks for video I have question mi forklift regulator is frozen every 15 minutes and the forklift shut down after desfrozen forklift run again justo do this just when is cold once when the forklift warm up running good all day now I can running only 15 minutes thanks
ok I see litle liquin from water came from radiator to conected to the regulator you think this is the problem and I have to refill radiator any 2 days thanks
I have a 7 series with an issue that when I’m on the throttle it work but then let off the throttle it shuts off. I have spark , and propane . I do have the regulator it is full of tar . Any ideas before I replace the regulator
Great Job, I have one 5fgcu20, gets spark with key start, has good compression, cap, wires double checked, will only stumble on start, fuel is controlled by vacuum only on this one, big clue is it wont run with starting fluid in air intake. does this sould like distributor or exciter/coil, I got this job to help these guys out and got it started by jumping the relay the guy before me cut the neutral saftey switch out of the harness, so i was lost with wires dangling and off the start relay, figured most of it out without schematic, got it to start with jumper to relay, started everytime one pop, so i fixed the hydralic cylinder for side shift, installed new key switch, repaired altenator lower mount bolt broken in cover, hood hinges repaired, rewired as best i could they way it was running and now it won't start only stumbling with fuel open, Any Idea?
+Gary Castle pull out the hose from the regulator to the mixer. When cranking the engine there should be no gas coming out, if there is then it's flooding the engine. You could also check the butterfly on the governor, I've seen it before that when the engine vacuum increases it pulls it shut due to a broken spring. Ignition wise I usually use an ignition tester and set it to 30kv. If it's not able to jump that gap then I'd check for high resistance in the secondary circuit.
thanks for reply, good thing to look at, I checked the two units out the bottom unit looked new and shinny, had small amount of black dust inside that side, the upper had some waxy stuff but not clogging anything and the vacuum seemed to activate the switch to open valve to let LPg thru. The broken spring you mention is that in the upper or lower unit of this regulator mixer ? I have gotten spark from plug but its a very small bluish white spark that is not that strong cause the shock wasn't that bad! The plug wire 4 is bad and is getting replaced asap, but others were ok and stronger. Would that spring stop it from running on starter fluid? This is why I think its ign. THANKS FOR REPLYING. Really Appreciate it. Gary
Top unit u are referring to is the lock off and the bottom unit is the regulator. The mixer is on top of the intake manifold. On the mixer side (carburator) there is another butterfly which is spring loaded. Shoot me your email so I can send some diagrams.
Hi, Buddy at the end you said you changed the regulator not the solenoid, I thought you determined the fault as being the solenoid, Or is it that in order to change the solenoid you have to do it with a new regulator and solenoid attached ?
I have a hyster 80 that wont start. I know am not getting spark. replaced the coil, distributor cap and rotor, and the boss man had me change the starter??? but I cant get spark from the coil. can you help me?
This just come up on my for you page- it is easier to remove lp vapor hose from mixer and stick in a cup of water and crank engine, if water bubbles you have fuel as long as solenoid clicks
i have this problem engine starts and then dies check the regulator valve relay and is not working theres no ground to the relay to activated the relay and the solenoid on the regulator where this ground supply from
ForkliftGeek workn on 8fgcu32. alternator not charging. checked 3 wires on alternator. yellow gets 12v. white with blue wire 12v but red wire nothn. fuses is good. where do red wire go?
yes the lock out solenoid relay that supplys power to the lock solenoit theres no grount to the relay to ctivate the lock out solenid i replace the ecm and still the same problem
ok that's what it said she on the wiring diagram and didn't know where the engine rev sw was located so I need to replace the distributor or can I just replace the engine rev sw is there any picture of it thank you
Well, if it keeps running after that a vacuum leak would be a good place to start. Assuming that the fuel system is vacuum operated. Poor Ignition may also be a cause.
wondering if you can help? I have a forklift which is a Henley husky 12 which has a ford 4cyl 2711e convert with a beam 120a propane system. The problem I have is that the forklift runs fine when shescold and just been fired up, though when she gets hot after say 10mins she begins to struggle to rev properly like she is struggling to get fuel. you can put full throttle and she just sits all lumpy at idle revs struggling to do anything. then out of the blue she will pull through and rev normal for a few secs and then die off again. if I let her cool down for 15mins she will fire up again as normal until she gets warm and then do the same thing again. bare in mind shes an old girl so the engine runs a little hot anyway so im wondering if its too much heat causing this as the regulator we have the beam 120a is so hot that you can barely touch it... Im wondering what you can advise?
+honi9 when it's acting up you could try what I did here and spray some carb cleaner or brake clean into the intake and see it runs any better, if it does then you are probably right that it's lacking fuel. Be careful though in using an external fuel source as it might backfire and if you sprayed too much into the intake it might catch fire.
ForkliftGeek why is it only doing this when the thing warms up after 10mins running though. plus why is the regulator/mixer (beam120a) so bloody hot to touch?surely the coolant feed into themixer shouldn't heat it that much? could that be the problem? is it getting so hot the diaphragm is going all to shit with the heat. then when its cool the diaphragm is fine again? this is about the level of my grasp on the situation...
hi i have a problem with tcm 3.0 ton diesel forklift.(i think 1992).key ignition turns on but no start.It starts if i use screwdriver on starter first time.What is wrong?Starter is fine.had it checked.
+crazy pineapple im guessing you jumped the battery connection on the starter to the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. If this is the case then everything from the key switch, relay, and wiring upto the starter are suspect. Corrosion in the connectors is also a possibility.
Yes what happens is that engine starts then dies right of way won't stay running the rally that activate the fuel cut off valve won't stay on if I by pass it it will run bud on lean mode
+Frank Stromboili when it's not starting pull the hose form the regulator going to the mixer. If you feel any pressure when cranking the engine then your regulator is faulty.
I'm a Toyota tech. Its most likely the regulator. They seem to have a service life of about 7 years in my experience. Once they need adjustment its soon time for replacement on the 7-series trucks in my experience.
+Robert Perry Ah ha! Thank you! I was getting confused by the term regulator when it was the lockoff that was the problem. *click* The lockoff is in the regulator on this machine.
If you know the current draw of the coil then yes. Using a current clamp with an oscilloscope could have shown a current ramp and possibly a hump suggesting it was opening. Wanted to stay with basic tools for this one. Tnx.
I personally like to convert over to the Impco fuel system if the customer wants to replace the Aisan system from the factory. They run better with less problems and are cheaper to replace in the future.
Impco system will violate emissions if the forklift has an O2 sensor and will trip a check engine light. Works for a ma and pa shop but its a nogo for companies that comply with federal law lol
I was using my take fork lift for 3 hours with no issue then I go and park it and try using it again but the engine now shuts down when put in drive or reverse any ideas why?
That could be a lot of things. Without knowing what truck it is, I would start with what is missing when it dies, spark or fuel. You would need a schematic to look for an engine shut down circuit. Is this a Clark?
ForkliftGeek thanks for responding. It only dies once I switch to drive or reverse the propane tank is full. I just let it run for 10 minutes and after it was able to go in drive with out shutting down but it seems like I need to let it run for 10 min each time I want to use it
Well, from what you are telling me it seems to be temperature related. Still need to determine what is missing when it dies either spark or fuel since it can't be timing nor engine breathing. I had a clark that had the same symptom and it turned out to be the computer but every system is different.
I’m desperate for help. I recently purchase a Toyota 42-4FGC25 lpg forklift. I purchased it at an auction and it ran perfectly fine. I transported it my shop and I can’t get it to start. It has spark. The forklift was at sea level and I’m now at 4700’ elevation. I’m assuming I have a fuel mixture problem. I tried messing with the screw on the top of the regulator and I can get it to where it almost starts but can’t get continuous combustion. I’m unfamiliar with lpg fuel systems. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I purchased a new battery so it should have plenty of voltage. Thank you.
It’s vacuum operated. Tester shows spark but I doubt the spark is the problem. It ran fine at sea level and when I brought it to the shop later the same day @ 4700’ elevation I can’t get it to start.Is there a way to send you video?
If it cranks with normal speed then one or more of the following would be missing. Spark, fuel, compression, air (being sucked in). If all of these are present then it would be timing( ignition or cam/crank).
I'm confused - you didn't show that the solenoid was getting a good ground to operate it - just +12v on both sides of the coil. to me that suggests a relay up stream is faulty more than anything on the regulator
Yes I did. At 4:58 in the video, my test light is clamped to the battery positive so when it is lit from the connector it means I have a good negative. Transferring my t pin to the other side of the connector and have the test light lit verifies that my coil is not open.
Good day Sir, about the positive side of that solenoid,,why is it blinking when cranking, is it the engine timing? What if theres nothing on positive side,what some alternative ways to test or check? Salamat po:
The blinking is the voltage fluctuation from the battery. Whenever a load is applied to the battery(in this case the starter) the voltage drops. If there is no positive supply you could do a bypass test and provide your own 12v supply.
@@forkliftgeek10 havent encounter this problem,mostly here poh issue sa LPG regulator but some wiring issue not yet ,soon if this problem exists i know what to do, still developing some diagnostic techniques , cge sir salamat sa info God Bless
I'm just getting started in the forklift mechanic trade. Well for about a year now as a PM Tech. But they are now letting me go out to service calls. So I've been building my tools accordingly. I have a matco test light and it is 12, 24, 48 volt. Test light but somebody said it was not good for what we do. So just trying to figure out what one is the right one.
Honestly, it all depends on what you use it for. If its LED and you use it on solenoids, injectors or contactors then you will more likely fry the test light.
Please I don't know if you will be seeing this, I am working on a cat forklift and every time I use something combustible it start up and continue working even after I finish operating But coming the next day same story been confused for a while
A no start, would always fall into 5 possible causes. Fuel, air, compression, spark and timing. In your case it would more likely be fuel related. I would start with figuring out what and how fuel is provided during cranking.
I wanted to thank you for the time you spend making these videos. I'm new to this field and your videos have really help me out. Please keep up with the great work.
Last comment was 7 years ago. I work driving one of this things and I’m learning a lot from your videos. Thanks.
Toyotaforkliftnoaselera
Ran Into a problem like this today on an 7FGU35 and I got stuck on the diag but I remembered watching this video before and remembered something similar/doing the same thing, cranking but not turning over.. except mine was missing the spark.. awesome video bro nothing but straight facts and knowledge!!!! Keep up the videos bro u help more ppl then u know or think! All the way from San antonio TX
Just watched your video and I have to say thank you for a video well done! I had a no start issue with my jurassic period Allis Chalmers. I had done a lot of what you showed already, but not the brake fluid into the carb trick, that is simple but effective.
In the end what I did is clean the regulator and carb inside and out very well, propane lines too. Fired right up and got rid of my stress issues too! Thank YOU!!
It was brake cleaner not brake fluid. You have to be sure it is the flammable type too. If you use the CFC kind it doesn't work. Use starter fluid and be sure to stay away from the throttle body when you start it in case of flames from a back fire.
Awesome, Thanks very much for putting this on here. It makes life so much easier when it is shown the way you have just done. What a true gentlemen
Thank you. I recently got a job as a forklift/maintenance position after working on the production welding/fab floor for 6 yrs. I look forward to videos like this to help me in my new position
Great troubleshooting techniques performed here 👍👍
hey buddy, thank you for sharing. I actually was working on this same lpg regulator at work the other day. The issue I had with this particular one was with the diaphragm. apparently after awhile, the oil they put into the propane to give it its smell can clog up and keep the diaphragm from working properly.
Excellent! Good logical and systematic approach on Troubleshoot the problem.
Thanks.
I work for Toyota in the UK and you would be amazed the number of times we go to duel fuel trucks switched to Gas lol.
Andy Freeman Haha same happened to me like two weeks ago
Thankyou! This will make me a hero at the shop!
+Travis Johnson when you're spraying brake cleaner into the intake always have a fire extinguisher on hand as it may backfire. Something that I should have said in the video. Thanks for watching and always be safe.
Good job bro and thanks for the video;-)
Great Video! My problem was one of my morons had switched the "LP to GAS" switch.
I spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot it and when you mentioned it, BAM! fixed :)
Hola amigo tenés un email, tallerautoelevadores@gmail.com
Y si tenés WhatsApp
Antonio Paraná Entre Ríos Argentina
Thank you so much for that video I had the same issue did the same thing you did and sure enough that is the problem
Unfortunately, price of solenoid was more than half the price of the regulator. So might as well replace the whole thing. But still up to the customer if he wants just the solenoid. In this case he opted for the regulator.
Thanks! Learning something new about gas-system :)
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Awesome video. Good troubleshooting.
Thanks i just started working for a forklift company
Good luck!!
Thx for the education.
Really enjoyed your video thanks.
+Cal Air thanks
Great vid.
Awesome vid. Just graduated college with a 2 year auto degree. Want to get into the forklift repair industry. Subscribed!
Polish up on your schematic and wiring diagrams, the electric trucks are what you want to tech on. It’s good to know recip’s but electric trucks are way more field serviceable and usually cleaner. Good luck
@@deborahchesser7375 I work for a company that services Raymond trucks and schematics and electrical in this industry I'm slowly but surely learning. Thanks for the advice. Like this industry more than cars!
After 35 years in this field I can give a little advice to you new guys...don’t jump off the dock and always have a 6”adjustable wrench in your pocket!
@@jamesmyers7066 when it comes to "jumping off the dock" what are you referring to? Lol
@@EvanT1995 quite literally jumping off the dock to get down to your van!! haha
That's a very common problem on Toyota forklifts, usually I would just put my hand on the solenoid and crank it and you will feel it if it works. If you're not getting power to that connector it's most like the relay located under the fuse box.
Thanks!!!
the first thing to look at before you get any tools out on a duel fuel Toyota, is the truck switched to LPG if it's switched the GAS (petrol) it will crank but not start. you would be amazed how many people get cought out on this one ( myself included)
And the switch gets bumped half way between gas and lpg sometimes which gives no start either
No shit. That’s a good point
Great. Thank you!
Thank u buddy you video is nice
Excelente amigo
I did check the 2 wires and they are good
Cool video!
I have a cat gc18 no start, LPG i have changed the vaporizer and the lockoff, I also changed the oil pressure switch and I have 9 volts to the lockoff and no start, if I jump over voltage directly to lockoff the forklift starts and runs a few times, I also had battery checked by Napa and swapped starter with new and no fix, any ideas?
very helps man
Did you replace the regulator or just the selenoid only? I thought just the selenoid was suspect?
Been a field service technician for 25 years..got 2 years left..then retirement...thank God...lift trucks are getting more complex!!!
I’m thinking about getting back into it, I was a Raymond tech so I’m used to reading schematics and diagrams. Not sure if the body can handle it though. Good luck on retirement brother, enjoy
@@deborahchesser7375 I am presently employed by a Raymond dealer as a field technician.
Capture Troubleshoot
raymond in anchorage alaska sucks they are the worst come take the asshole who runs service out of here rob doesn’t know how to treat his customers or how to shut his mouth we won’t buy anymore raymond crap here
Excellent
nice encoder bearing we saw at 11.24 !!!
depending on the Gas regulator type the slow run solinoid is powered from a sensor in the distributor.
if you have high gas flow to the carb ( mixer) the engine will crank but not start and the main valve seal inside the regulator.
+Andy Freeman the type of regulator would depend on the model of the forklift. the regulator you are referring to would be more likely in an 8 series. As far as high gas flow, yes it would produce the same symptom but exhaust would smell of unburned propane and adding external fuel source would not get the engine to start.
nice presentation
+Andy Freeman tnx.
ok I see litle liquin from water came from radiator to conected to the regulator you think this is the problem and I have to refill radiator any 2 days thanks
I wonder if way back I had opportunity to benefit all these training I would be an excellent Mechanic today I have to Paid to fix my vehicle for any little problem.
Hi Jay, what if the test light doesn't light up when you check the power going to the solenoid on that connector when cranking? Bad wiring?
Bad relay, wiring, fuse or rev switch on positive side. If this was a dual fuel check if the switch is flicked to gasoline.
Awesome
Hey forklift geek,
Thank you for the fun interesting videos. I appreciate solid diagnostic work. And the explanation is spot on.
I have a toyota 7fgcu15 with a no start, I diagnosed it to a (what I thought was a faulty shutoff solenoid) but rather a no power to the shut off solenoid issue.
Do you know what else is on that circuit?
It powers the solenoid through the ignition switch, but without a schematic I do not know where the solenoid connecting wires come from.
Thank you
ua-cam.com/video/bSvOp-zRlMQ/v-deo.html
This one is a 7 series, but not all 7 series are wired this way. Some of them, the lock off is powered by a rev switch and the input is from the distributor.
@forkliftgeek10 I just watched that linked video.
I will definitely look into that.
I bypassed the main solenoid (in the regulator) to feed it voltage so it would open. Then that is when I discovered it would run, but this video could definitely be the final culprit or at least similar to the problem that I am having.
Thank you again for the explanation.
Love your process of elimination, you should consider teaching.
Thanks for the comment.
Great job responsibilities are there
He don't know how to work on propane forklifts
I have this model lift won't start not get power from the fuse box to starter I'm thinking the neutral safety is bad as i have checked fuses and put in new relay but can't find neutral switch. Starts and runs fine jumping to starter.
+thatcoolguy131 neutral switch is part of the directional lever assembly.
Did it not have gasoline in it? It's a dual fuel truck. I've Had wires break inside the insulation at terminals. Looked fine but conductor was broken.
thanks.
Hi, how much does solenoid costs in average range?
Did you install a whole new regulator or just the solenoid
wise man
This is good info, but we are dealing with a newer generation Regulator with dual solenoid lockouts. Getting an intemittent, NO START after the rig sits for a while. Same as yours it will try to run with starting fluid. Also breaking the flare connection coming out of the big lockout solenoid path, bleeding off some pressure and re-tightening may allow it to start. The Attending Forklift is also Puzzled by this one. S/N is 41051 Model 8FGU25.
Any suggestions are helpful.
Star
Sometimes the main solenoid (big one in the middle) gets stuck or the solenoid is already weak. When it is not starting try tapping on the solenoid and see if it starts.
@@forkliftgeek10 Thanks for the info. 10-4
OK Excellent. Tap on the secondary lockout on the REG when cranking and it start right up after prolonged NO START. Good Technique. Thanks. New Reg should solve this one.
Good 👍
So I have a propane floor buffer that is doing the exact same thing. It was running perfect until I dis connected the hose from the vaporizer to the carb and turned the propane valve on. I put the hose back on and now and it still will not start. I have bought a new vaporizer and solenoid and it will not start. Any ideas if that made sense?
+Solomon Smith when an engine does not start it can only be missing a few things, spark, fuel, air, timing and compression. I'd start with spark and fuel. Check if the solenoid is getting power.
Hey there. I have a tusk forklift. It is made by Komatsu. I just purchased it this morning and drove it on the trailer as well as off the trailer. While backing it off the trailer it hit the ground pretty hard and I drove it into the shop. I shut it off and it never started back up after that. The guy mentioned he cleaned the regulator to get the machine back running again. I have to assume that somehow the regulator is failing. It seems to be forcing a enormous amount of propane into the system when I turn the key key on. It acts like it wants to start but it just won't do it. Do I need to replace the entire regulator? It's blowing the excess propane out of a small vacuum size line off the side of the regulator that goes to the intake tube.
You could try the rebuild kit
@forkliftgeek I'm having a minor issue with my Mitsubishi propane forklift. Seems lately I have to stomp the gas pedal to the floor to get it to start. Could that also be the solenoid or should i look at injectors?
Your mitsubishi would have a different fuel system than a toyota.
I sprayed starter fluid and our FL started right up. It when I checked the fuel supply the gas didn’t come out as hard as yours did. It did a little more but I had to keep opening it. Any advice?
I have the same problem.
Or similar at least
stay out of the line of fire when you start it after spraying starter in the intake. If it has jumped time a backfire will blow your doors off.
Definitely. I had it blow a huge fireball out once lol
Hey man I have a Toyota. I sprayed starter fluid inside and it just cranks and tries to start but never catches. It’s got spark but it looks a little weak. Could it be the distributor cap? It’s got new plugs in it.
What should I look fir on the cap ?
Worn contacts in the cap. The cap is not the only part that produce a weak spark though. The rotor, ignition coil, ignition module, and cables are all suspect.
thanks for video I have question mi forklift regulator is frozen every 15 minutes and the forklift shut down after desfrozen forklift run again justo do this just when is cold once when the forklift warm up running good all day now I can running only 15 minutes thanks
Check your coolant level in the radiator
ok I see litle liquin from water came from radiator to conected to the regulator you think this is the problem and I have to refill radiator any 2 days thanks
I have a 7 series with an issue that when I’m on the throttle it work but then let off the throttle it shuts off. I have spark , and propane . I do have the regulator it is full of tar . Any ideas before I replace the regulator
Throttle plate might be gummed up
Great Job, I have one 5fgcu20, gets spark with key start, has good compression, cap, wires double checked, will only stumble on start, fuel is controlled by vacuum only on this one, big clue is it wont run with starting fluid in air intake. does this sould like distributor or exciter/coil, I got this job to help these guys out and got it started by jumping the relay the guy before me cut the neutral saftey switch out of the harness, so i was lost with wires dangling and off the start relay, figured most of it out without schematic, got it to start with jumper to relay, started everytime one pop, so i fixed the hydralic cylinder for side shift, installed new key switch, repaired altenator lower mount bolt broken in cover, hood hinges repaired, rewired as best i could they way it was running and now it won't start only stumbling with fuel open, Any Idea?
+Gary Castle pull out the hose from the regulator to the mixer. When cranking the engine there should be no gas coming out, if there is then it's flooding the engine. You could also check the butterfly on the governor, I've seen it before that when the engine vacuum increases it pulls it shut due to a broken spring. Ignition wise I usually use an ignition tester and set it to 30kv. If it's not able to jump that gap then I'd check for high resistance in the secondary circuit.
thanks for reply, good thing to look at, I checked the two units out the bottom unit looked new and shinny, had small amount of black dust inside that side, the upper had some waxy stuff but not clogging anything and the vacuum seemed to activate the switch to open valve to let LPg thru. The broken spring you mention is that in the upper or lower unit of this regulator mixer ? I have gotten spark from plug but its a very small bluish white spark that is not that strong cause the shock wasn't that bad! The plug wire 4 is bad and is getting replaced
asap, but others were ok and stronger. Would that spring stop it from running on starter fluid? This is why I think its ign. THANKS FOR REPLYING. Really Appreciate it. Gary
Top unit u are referring to is the lock off and the bottom unit is the regulator. The mixer is on top of the intake manifold. On the mixer side (carburator) there is another butterfly which is spring loaded. Shoot me your email so I can send some diagrams.
Gary Castle noon
Hi, Buddy at the end you said you changed the regulator not the solenoid, I thought you determined the fault as being the solenoid, Or is it that in order to change the solenoid you have to do it with a new regulator and solenoid attached ?
Customer opted to change the regulator
I have a hyster 80 that wont start. I know am not getting spark. replaced the coil, distributor cap and rotor, and the boss man had me change the starter??? but I cant get spark from the coil. can you help me?
+Barry Girky does it have a gm engine with the bypass system?
This is very interesting
This just come up on my for you page- it is easier to remove lp vapor hose from mixer and stick in a cup of water and crank engine, if water bubbles you have fuel as long as solenoid clicks
i have this problem engine starts and then dies check the regulator valve relay and is not working theres no ground to the relay to activated the relay and the solenoid on the regulator where this ground supply from
+agustin tirado if you're talking about the lock off solenoid then ground could either be provided by the ecm or constantly from the chassis.
Why only 9v? I'm assuming you have a fully charged battery. That's a big voltage drop. I'd start there.
ForkliftGeek workn on 8fgcu32. alternator not charging. checked 3 wires on alternator. yellow gets 12v. white with blue wire 12v but red wire nothn. fuses is good. where do red wire go?
+Mak Sivichane 10A IG fuse same fuse for the charge indicator light
yes the lock out solenoid relay that supplys power to the lock solenoit theres no grount to the relay to ctivate the lock out solenid i replace the ecm and still the same problem
+agustin tirado is this a toyota?
ok that's what it said she on the wiring diagram and didn't know where the engine rev sw was located so I need to replace the distributor or can I just replace the engine rev sw is there any picture of it
thank you
+agustin tirado I would suggest checking the integrity of the wiring first.
i did check everything and still wont start
+agustin tirado are you sure fuel is what you are missing?
any other idea
Sir my is toyota diesel engine 6 sparks also cannot start how to do
I have a early 90's Clark lp forklift it wont start without a shot of starting fluid. Any ideas? Thanks
Well, if it keeps running after that a vacuum leak would be a good place to start. Assuming that the fuel system is vacuum operated. Poor Ignition may also be a cause.
@@forkliftgeek10 thanks for your reply, will check into that.
Some days it fires up just fine with no help🤷♂️
🙏🙏🙏
wondering if you can help? I have a forklift which is a Henley husky 12 which has a ford 4cyl 2711e convert with a beam 120a propane system. The problem I have is that the forklift runs fine when shescold and just been fired up, though when she gets hot after say 10mins she begins to struggle to rev properly like she is struggling to get fuel. you can put full throttle and she just sits all lumpy at idle revs struggling to do anything. then out of the blue she will pull through and rev normal for a few secs and then die off again. if I let her cool down for 15mins she will fire up again as normal until she gets warm and then do the same thing again. bare in mind shes an old girl so the engine runs a little hot anyway so im wondering if its too much heat causing this as the regulator we have the beam 120a is so hot that you can barely touch it... Im wondering what you can advise?
+honi9 when it's acting up you could try what I did here and spray some carb cleaner or brake clean into the intake and see it runs any better, if it does then you are probably right that it's lacking fuel. Be careful though in using an external fuel source as it might backfire and if you sprayed too much into the intake it might catch fire.
+honi9 does the regulator have a primer button? Sorry not familiar with beam regulators.
ForkliftGeek why is it only doing this when the thing warms up after 10mins running though. plus why is the regulator/mixer (beam120a) so bloody hot to touch?surely the coolant feed into themixer shouldn't heat it that much? could that be the problem? is it getting so hot the diaphragm is going all to shit with the heat. then when its cool the diaphragm is fine again? this is about the level of my grasp on the situation...
+honi9 what does your temperature gauge indicate when it starts acting up?
i will check next time ok
What's the reason that gas accelerator doesn't react
Hey if the truck didn’t start with brake clean, what would be you next step?
If it didn’t start with break cleaner then that would suggest a ‘no spark’ problem. Such as spark plug problem, ignition problem, coil problem.
hi i have a problem with tcm 3.0 ton diesel forklift.(i think 1992).key ignition turns on but no start.It starts if i use screwdriver on starter first time.What is wrong?Starter is fine.had it checked.
+crazy pineapple where did you use the screwdriver on?
+crazy pineapple im guessing you jumped the battery connection on the starter to the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. If this is the case then everything from the key switch, relay, and wiring upto the starter are suspect. Corrosion in the connectors is also a possibility.
Yes what happens is that engine starts then dies right of way won't stay running the rally that activate the fuel cut off valve won't stay on if I by pass it it will run bud on lean mode
+agustin tirado what do you mean when you said lean mode?
can you pm me at tinotirado@yahoo.com
I have a 7FGCU20 that won't start when hot unless you relieve fuel pressure from line. any ideas?
+Frank Stromboili when it's not starting pull the hose form the regulator going to the mixer. If you feel any pressure when cranking the engine then your regulator is faulty.
I'm a Toyota tech. Its most likely the regulator. They seem to have a service life of about 7 years in my experience. Once they need adjustment its soon time for replacement on the 7-series trucks in my experience.
Had to install a completely new reg for a bad solenoid!? Dam
+Robert Perry Ah ha! Thank you! I was getting confused by the term regulator when it was the lockoff that was the problem. *click* The lockoff is in the regulator on this machine.
Got a s50ft no fuel new regulator getting fuel to the solenoid but not past would that be the problem
Make sure the solenoid is getting power and ground
You the man broken ground wire thanx so much
Current draw measurement would have told you everything you needed to know.
If you know the current draw of the coil then yes. Using a current clamp with an oscilloscope could have shown a current ramp and possibly a hump suggesting it was opening. Wanted to stay with basic tools for this one. Tnx.
Im working on a 8series Toyota forklift with a code e 09-1 and will not start. Any ideas
+busfairnitrometh 09-1 is ignition signal abnormality. No spark?
Broken wire tach sensor
Can I test that plunger out side with a powerprobe?
You can.
I personally like to convert over to the Impco fuel system if the customer wants to replace the Aisan system from the factory. They run better with less problems and are cheaper to replace in the future.
Impco system will violate emissions if the forklift has an O2 sensor and will trip a check engine light. Works for a ma and pa shop but its a nogo for companies that comply with federal law lol
Will this solution also work for a conversion kit for automobile use?
As far as testing if you are having a fuel problem, yes.
I suppose so, since it's all based on the same principle.
Why replace the whole regulator if it was just the solenoid?
+sc0tte1 solenoid cost more than half of price of regulator. Customer opted for new one.
Regulator diaphragm fill with oil most likely double labor replace assembly warranty is a wonderful thing
I was using my take fork lift for 3 hours with no issue then I go and park it and try using it again but the engine now shuts down when put in drive or reverse any ideas why?
That could be a lot of things. Without knowing what truck it is, I would start with what is missing when it dies, spark or fuel. You would need a schematic to look for an engine shut down circuit. Is this a Clark?
ForkliftGeek thanks for responding.
It only dies once I switch to drive or reverse the propane tank is full.
I just let it run for 10 minutes and after it was able to go in drive with out shutting down but it seems like I need to let it run for 10 min each time I want to use it
It’s a yale forklift
Well, from what you are telling me it seems to be temperature related. Still need to determine what is missing when it dies either spark or fuel since it can't be timing nor engine breathing. I had a clark that had the same symptom and it turned out to be the computer but every system is different.
hi any idea where to buy toyota forklift diagnostic software ?
Intella sells the 8 series analyzer
Lol fitted a hole new reg as it wasn’t just the solenoid.
I’m desperate for help. I recently purchase a Toyota 42-4FGC25 lpg forklift. I purchased it at an auction and it ran perfectly fine. I transported it my shop and I can’t get it to start. It has spark. The forklift was at sea level and I’m now at 4700’ elevation. I’m assuming I have a fuel mixture problem. I tried messing with the screw on the top of the regulator and I can get it to where it almost starts but can’t get continuous combustion. I’m unfamiliar with lpg fuel systems. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I purchased a new battery so it should have plenty of voltage. Thank you.
How far does the spark jump? Lpg is a gas and requires higher kv to ignite. Is the lpg lock off vacuum operated or solenoid controlled?
It’s vacuum operated. Tester shows spark but I doubt the spark is the problem. It ran fine at sea level and when I brought it to the shop later the same day @ 4700’ elevation I can’t get it to start.Is there a way to send you video?
Ok, if its fuel try spraying carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the intake, see if it starts. There could also be too much fuel flooding the engine.
I got it running. It was a fuel problem. Had not leaned out the regulator enough. Thank you very much for replying. It’s extremely appreciated.
Como que car el tiempo del encendido del montacargas
I'm having the same problem but with a Nissan it cranks but won't start any ideas what it could be?
If it cranks with normal speed then one or more of the following would be missing. Spark, fuel, compression, air (being sucked in). If all of these are present then it would be timing( ignition or cam/crank).
if you have spark and no error codes, lp regulator is over pressurizing
I'm confused - you didn't show that the solenoid was getting a good ground to operate it - just +12v on both sides of the coil. to me that suggests a relay up stream is faulty more than anything on the regulator
Yes I did. At 4:58 in the video, my test light is clamped to the battery positive so when it is lit from the connector it means I have a good negative. Transferring my t pin to the other side of the connector and have the test light lit verifies that my coil is not open.
Good day Sir, about the positive side of that solenoid,,why is it blinking when cranking, is it the engine timing? What if theres nothing on positive side,what some alternative ways to test or check?
Salamat po:
The blinking is the voltage fluctuation from the battery. Whenever a load is applied to the battery(in this case the starter) the voltage drops. If there is no positive supply you could do a bypass test and provide your own 12v supply.
@@forkliftgeek10 havent encounter this problem,mostly here poh issue sa LPG regulator but some wiring issue not yet ,soon if this problem exists i know what to do, still developing some diagnostic techniques , cge sir salamat sa info God Bless
What test light are you using?brand and model# please?
It's a matco test light but I don't remember the model.
I'm just getting started in the forklift mechanic trade. Well for about a year now as a PM Tech. But they are now letting me go out to service calls. So I've been building my tools accordingly. I have a matco test light and it is 12, 24, 48 volt. Test light but somebody said it was not good for what we do. So just trying to figure out what one is the right one.
Honestly, it all depends on what you use it for. If its LED and you use it on solenoids, injectors or contactors then you will more likely fry the test light.
So standard bulb is better. What about voltage range? And also was wondering about your fuel pressure tester? Any good recommendations?
I just use a test light for quick testing on 12v systems other than that is a meter or an oscilloscope. My fuel pressure tester is from impco.
Solenoid will not power up on test truck until engine rotates
The engine has to rotate fort the solniod to pull in
Please I don't know if you will be seeing this, I am working on a cat forklift and every time I use something combustible it start up and continue working even after I finish operating
But coming the next day same story been confused for a while
The forklift uses gas only
A no start, would always fall into 5 possible causes. Fuel, air, compression, spark and timing. In your case it would more likely be fuel related. I would start with figuring out what and how fuel is provided during cranking.