Peter, I reckon if you did a video of 'Mazda 6 2.2 diesel buyers guide by a mechanic' with links to all the videos you've done previously. You could talk a bit about the history of the model - the year it was introduced etc, the standard features and, importantly, the most common issues, you'd get lots of views.
If I were thinking of buying one of these cars, this sort of information would be extremely useful. I'm sure fellow mechanics would find it very helpful too. Keep up the good work, Peter. Your videos are excellent and with a bit of focus on what would be useful to the masses, I hope you can increase the number views and subscribers etc.
@@theartofflying3108 as a mechanic or car repair person I find them very good to work on which is positive. But unfortunately the can cost anything up to €4500 every 150,000kms. For a head gasket, camshaft, vacuum pump, intake system walnut blasting etc. 😬😬😬😬 All in all though I really do like them, it’s just funny that no one wants to work on them 🤨🤨
Useful video! I purchased one that’s a 2014 plate 148k miles on the clock - before I bought it had new brakes all round and a new wishbone on passenger and then a radiator the day it was delivered. Since owning I drove it for a week before it lit up like a Xmas tree with scbs light, EML and vehicle inspection light along with a horrible knocking from passenger side. No power in low revs either - garage were good and took the car back, replaced ball joints on front, they said a valve was broken on the turbo meaning it was open? But they’ve threaded it back on and should be working fine along with a new sensor. I’ve not had it back 2 days and the vehicle inspection light is back on and error code p258b with brake booster sitting around 18kpa (mines in psi and is 2.7) and a whistle now coming from engine With the whistling is it likely my turbo is going with the vacuum pump? Should I give it up as a bad joke and see if they’ll give me my money back? They’re currently dodging my texts and calls so not sure likelyhood of that is
@@djh7693 once the pin breaks in the turbo it has most likely damaged the smaller high pressure turbine. That is what is causing you now, so it needs a new turbo. Also if the vacuum pump isn’t performing it could be a control solenoid failing or simply the exhaust camshaft after wearing and causing the vacuum pump to fail. It could need 2 to 3k spending on it 😬😬😬
Thanks a lot for the video. I have a Mazda 3 2014 2.2D SkyActive 148hp just below 100k miles and it behaves exactly like this (confirmed on OBD). The error was also removed and it came back. Should I just change the vacuum pump? If yes, where should I buy it from and what brand do you recommend?
@@UifaleanAlexandru you can replace the vacuum pump alone but it is most likely after failing due to the exhaust camshaft after wearing and those steel shavings after entering the vacuum pump and causing it to fail 😬😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you for the reply. If I also replace the exhaust camshaft, I suppose I also need to change the 4x rocker arms, and 4x tappets, correct? Also, does the valve cover gasket need changing once the valve cover has been opened?
@@UifaleanAlexandru yes is the answer to all questions. But the rockers come with the OE camshaft kit. Hydraulic tappets must be purchased separately. The gasket is normally ok but I would advise a new one 😉👍👍
Thank you Ricardo. It nice to be able to know if it’s starting to fail prior to returning it to the customer & then get a call 2 days later with a check engine light on again 😬😬👍
Many thanks, a very useful video. I've just watched a video regarding changing the exhaust camshaft and its above my skill level. Do you thinks its worth just changing the vacuum pump alone ( which i can do), or will the new pump fail quickly if i don't have the camshaft done too? Thank you again.
Just changing the vacuum pump alone will get the car back running good. And plan for the camshaft replacement down the line, the worst that can happen is the Dpf will block due to it being worn . Hopefully that helps Paul 🤞🤞🤞
Hi again. Yes it does help, so thank you very much. My last question is should the car start again after everything has been disconnected then reconnected without any specialist work? I remember issues in the past after changing a fuel filter on a diesel car. Again, many thanks.
@@paulsmith9333 it should start again relatively easily and with no special tools. The only advice I would give is try not leave fuel pipes off for too long (ie. Overnight) This should avoid the any fuel system airlocks 😉👍👍👍
Great video! Quick question. I have a Mazda 6 Skyactive 2.2 diesel 2018 and have 2 codes. P0401 (carbon build up) and P258B. My main concern is that I cannot afford to buy a new vacuum pump. Is it possible to recondition the same vacuum, or what’s the cheapest pump I can get? How much would this cost.
I would suggest contacting you mazda dealer because some of them can be covered by warranty or a percentage of the part price. I have ever or heard of anyone reconditioning these pumps, but they are possibly able to be done 🤔🤔🤔
Great video 👍 I’ve got a 2014 cx5. It’s done 100k I replaced the turbo at 70k after actuator cap fell off, I about a month ago I done a deep clean on the intake and all the parts that get gunked up with carbon. The power double and it improved the car a lot, now a month later I’ve not this vacuum pump error code coming up. The Kpa is dropping slowly to about 12Kpa. You said this is related to cam shaft wear which is concerning me and since I’ve had the car I’ve always had one issue. I think the clutch could soon be on its way out, slight rust just above the windshield. Do I get rid of it and cut my losses or fix the parts in the near future? I will have to repair this vacuum issue before I sell it. What do you think???
You have the turbo done so I’d go a few pound more into it to get it right. But that just me. Replace the exhaust camshaft, vacuum pump & injector washers. Then replace oil pump timing chain & strainer @ a later stage an then you’ll have a great car 🤞🤞
Hi Peter, Good video with lots of details 👌. I have the same error code. Is ut enough to replace the vacuum pump or I need to get other parts checked. Many thanks
If you have a scantool look at brake booster pressure & then crimp the small vacuum pipe coming off the vacuum pump to see if the vacuum readings improve. If it does you have something wrong on the turbo control side, if it doesn’t improve it is just the vacuum pump 😉
Hello I have the 2016 cx5 ,I got the p258b error code and the yellow triangle light on dashboard ( no check engine light ) Car drives perfectly , what do you recommend me to do? Is it the vacuum pump?
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thankyou for the reply. Will changing the vacuum pump solve this issue? Or more work should be done? There are no really good mechanics in my area
Great video Peter..would you say there is a case to be made that if the vacuum pump need to be changed so too should the exhaust camshaft? Or vice Verda? Which leads me to my primary question..why does the exhaust cam shaft lobes wear so badly? Is it the “sticking” valves which then makes me ask..why do the valves stick so badly on the exhaust side? (..also no progress to report..just getting the Clubman off the ramp today 🫣so hopefully this week and have a 2016 1.6 CDTi Mereva sitting outside the door looking for some TLC..🤪)
Hey Damien, Look at the rockers I sent you. You will see all the lobes that wear have no roller bearing underneath, so steel on steel will wear. Then the exhaust valves only stick due to not being opened because of the worn camshaft. The sticking valves free out very fast once the new camshaft is filled. As for the vacuum pump failing, they say that is because of the metal from the camshaft 😱😱
That’s a quality video! Do you think it’s reasonably safe to change vacuum pump now and then exhaust camshaft two month later? I have got p258b code on right now.
Yes, that would be fine. The exhaust camshaft being worn will only affect the fuel economy & the Dpf at some point. But that could be 000’s of kms down the line 😉👍👍👍
If the vacuum pump if broken will it have an effect on proformances? I have a ish where at low reves it doesn't have the power it had previously looks like you point towards the exhaust pressure sensor aswell ?
No mate I had a chap come out with his snap on OBD and the The vacuum pump was read silly numbers in excess of 3k so that's the direction we've gone ... The turbo kicks in around 2/2.5 rmp
I show the Mazda part number in my video, just take a screenshot. And the best place to get it is in your local Mazda dealership. They are easy enough to change 🙏🙏
Worst cause scenario the brake pedal will feel a bit harder at times & eventually the dpf could block. The exhaust camshaft is most likely worn too. The camshaft wear causes the vacuum pumps to fail 😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks peter. This traingle came on after buying im simi garage,. Had local mech plug in and said vacuum pump. Garage taking it in tmrw, hope i havent bought trouble! He will need to replace the camshaft to be safe and pump??
@@derekryan5760 yes, the camshaft is what caused the vacuum pump to fail. Replace the injector washers when in the too. They can contact me if they need any advice 👍
I got this P258B code at 78 000miles on mine. Its 2015 mazda. I clear it and it appears regulary every 12-14 engines warm-ups. I monitoring it with ForScan. Its strange I think if pump failed and not creating vacuum code would be permanent but after clearing it I can drive for days and after 12-14 engine worm-ups code appears and it appears when car is iddling after start up on warm engine. Any thoughts?
That is exactly what this video is for. Press the brake a few times before starting. Look at brake booster pressure sensor, it should be 100kpa start & within 30 seconds it should be under 100kpa. If that doesn’t happen you will need a vacuum pump & more than likely an exhaust camshaft 👍👍
Hi Peter, love your channel i watch nearly all your videos. I've started getting problems with my 2013 Mazda 6 2.2 Skyactiv. Error P253F Low Oil Pressure. Is this any easy fix? There's only 97k miles on the clock. I just had it serviced too so its ok with oil and that. Im based in Limerick btw
why is your pump part number different? As long as I know part number for this vacuum pump is SH01-18-G00A. I never seen number SHY5-18-W00C. SH01 is engine code for skyactiv D 2.2. What SHY5 mean?
That I don’t know the answer to, but I do know that quite a few people have told me of price differences on different chassis number vehicles. I must do some research and see if I can find out the answer to that 😉👍👍
@@theartofflying3108 It can still be driven but the car will most likely be in limp home mode & possibly block the Dpf is driven anymore than a few days. And be mindful that the vacuum pumps normally fail due to the exhaust camshaft wearing and metal shavings from it causing the vacuum pump to fail. I have videos on camshaft replacement too if needed for reference 😉👍👍👍
On the top of the ‘live data’ screen in the very middle, there is a little square icon. Swipe down on that and it opens up a little search bar on the top right hand side. I’ll do a ‘UA-cam short’ on it Monday 😉
I bought a Vgate vLinker FS yesterday plugged it into my car and a laptop. Downloaded Forscan and was looking at this live data in 10 minutes. It cost me £27 on Amazon and £10 for the software. Give it a go it's great. Let's you code other features on the car as well not just fault diagnosis.
Hallo, habe einen Fehlercode p258b gebrauchte Pumpe eingebaut und wieder das gleiche Problem. Beide Pumpen getestet und beide laufen gleich schnell runter. Kann man die Videos mal euch zeigen?
Bei meinem Auto wurde im Motorbereich fast alles neu eingebaut. Hydrostößel, Kipphebel, Zylinderkopf usw. Hatte verkorkung und alles wurde gereinigt. Danach kam der Fehler p258b nach 50 km und geht nicht mehr weg.
I am unable to translate the 2nd message. But have you replaced the oil strainer on the newer pump ??? If not i would advise replacing it, they a very common to block 😉👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 yes the more people posting about more things like this the better it’s will always help people out thanks again Peter keep it up 👍
Currently selling a 2015 Mazda 3 2.2D with 163000 miles (262000 km) and I have an unpleasant feeling that the vacuum pump is packing in. Ever wished you'd sold a car a year ago? 😅
I actually have a Topdon diagnostics machine and was able to replicate your results almost bang on. Had it booked in to get the work done in Belfast and lo and behold, someone bought it. I'm guilt free because I did tell them and took a few quid off to compensate. (Still glad It's not my problem) 😄.
This vehicle had 182,000kms or around 100,000mls. But I have changed these vacuum pumps & camshaft’s as early as 120,000kms or 85,000mls. Unfortunately there is no exact number I can give, but hopefully this gives you a guide 🤞🤞
They can be expensive to own, the best and least expensive way to fix them is to do a cylinder head gasket and all related bits that fail. Around 5k but done once and for all 😬😬😬
superb detailed video thanks for sharing all your hard work
You are very welcome & thank you very much 🙏🙏🙏
Peter, I reckon if you did a video of 'Mazda 6 2.2 diesel buyers guide by a mechanic' with links to all the videos you've done previously. You could talk a bit about the history of the model - the year it was introduced etc, the standard features and, importantly, the most common issues, you'd get lots of views.
That is a great idea, it’s always nice to get input from another person’s perspective 🙏🙏👍
If I were thinking of buying one of these cars, this sort of information would be extremely useful. I'm sure fellow mechanics would find it very helpful too.
Keep up the good work, Peter. Your videos are excellent and with a bit of focus on what would be useful to the masses, I hope you can increase the number views and subscribers etc.
@@thecapedcrusader326 thank you very much 🙏🙏🙏
Bl 5:21 ❤ 5:26
Thanks peter for the video haven't come on that exact problem with them yet but it's nice to no😊
They are failing like crazy so handy to know Colm 😉👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 So you don't recommend this engine model Mazda I guess? At least from the customer perspective..
@@theartofflying3108 as a mechanic or car repair person I find them very good to work on which is positive. But unfortunately the can cost anything up to €4500 every 150,000kms. For a head gasket, camshaft, vacuum pump, intake system walnut blasting etc. 😬😬😬😬
All in all though I really do like them, it’s just funny that no one wants to work on them 🤨🤨
Useful video! I purchased one that’s a 2014 plate 148k miles on the clock - before I bought it had new brakes all round and a new wishbone on passenger and then a radiator the day it was delivered. Since owning I drove it for a week before it lit up like a Xmas tree with scbs light, EML and vehicle inspection light along with a horrible knocking from passenger side. No power in low revs either - garage were good and took the car back, replaced ball joints on front, they said a valve was broken on the turbo meaning it was open? But they’ve threaded it back on and should be working fine along with a new sensor.
I’ve not had it back 2 days and the vehicle inspection light is back on and error code p258b with brake booster sitting around 18kpa (mines in psi and is 2.7) and a whistle now coming from engine
With the whistling is it likely my turbo is going with the vacuum pump? Should I give it up as a bad joke and see if they’ll give me my money back? They’re currently dodging my texts and calls so not sure likelyhood of that is
@@djh7693 once the pin breaks in the turbo it has most likely damaged the smaller high pressure turbine. That is what is causing you now, so it needs a new turbo.
Also if the vacuum pump isn’t performing it could be a control solenoid failing or simply the exhaust camshaft after wearing and causing the vacuum pump to fail.
It could need 2 to 3k spending on it 😬😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 oh excellent :(. The garage I purchased from are conveniently ignoring my calls and texts so looks like it’s not my problem
@@djh7693 it would be great if it is covered by warranty 🤞🤞
Thanks a lot for the video. I have a Mazda 3 2014 2.2D SkyActive 148hp just below 100k miles and it behaves exactly like this (confirmed on OBD). The error was also removed and it came back. Should I just change the vacuum pump? If yes, where should I buy it from and what brand do you recommend?
Damn I got the same problem, thinking whether to sell or fix the car
@@UifaleanAlexandru you can replace the vacuum pump alone but it is most likely after failing due to the exhaust camshaft after wearing and those steel shavings after entering the vacuum pump and causing it to fail 😬😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you for the reply. If I also replace the exhaust camshaft, I suppose I also need to change the 4x rocker arms, and 4x tappets, correct?
Also, does the valve cover gasket need changing once the valve cover has been opened?
@@UifaleanAlexandru yes is the answer to all questions. But the rockers come with the OE camshaft kit. Hydraulic tappets must be purchased separately. The gasket is normally ok but I would advise a new one 😉👍👍
And good explanation of the problem...cheers form Portugal
Thank you Ricardo. It nice to be able to know if it’s starting to fail prior to returning it to the customer & then get a call 2 days later with a check engine light on again 😬😬👍
And great to have you viewing all the way from Portugal 🙏🙏🙏
Many thanks, a very useful video.
I've just watched a video regarding changing the exhaust camshaft and its above my skill level. Do you thinks its worth just changing the vacuum pump alone ( which i can do), or will the new pump fail quickly if i don't have the camshaft done too?
Thank you again.
Just changing the vacuum pump alone will get the car back running good. And plan for the camshaft replacement down the line, the worst that can happen is the Dpf will block due to it being worn .
Hopefully that helps Paul 🤞🤞🤞
Hi again. Yes it does help, so thank you very much. My last question is should the car start again after everything has been disconnected then reconnected without any specialist work? I remember issues in the past after changing a fuel filter on a diesel car.
Again, many thanks.
@@paulsmith9333 it should start again relatively easily and with no special tools. The only advice I would give is try not leave fuel pipes off for too long (ie. Overnight) This should avoid the any fuel system airlocks 😉👍👍👍
Many thanks for all the info. Cheers
Great video!
Quick question. I have a Mazda 6 Skyactive 2.2 diesel 2018 and have 2 codes. P0401 (carbon build up) and P258B. My main concern is that I cannot afford to buy a new vacuum pump. Is it possible to recondition the same vacuum, or what’s the cheapest pump I can get? How much would this cost.
I would suggest contacting you mazda dealer because some of them can be covered by warranty or a percentage of the part price.
I have ever or heard of anyone reconditioning these pumps, but they are possibly able to be done 🤔🤔🤔
Great video 👍 I’ve got a 2014 cx5. It’s done 100k I replaced the turbo at 70k after actuator cap fell off, I about a month ago I done a deep clean on the intake and all the parts that get gunked up with carbon. The power double and it improved the car a lot, now a month later I’ve not this vacuum pump error code coming up.
The Kpa is dropping slowly to about 12Kpa. You said this is related to cam shaft wear which is concerning me and since I’ve had the car I’ve always had one issue. I think the clutch could soon be on its way out, slight rust just above the windshield. Do I get rid of it and cut my losses or fix the parts in the near future? I will have to repair this vacuum issue before I sell it.
What do you think???
You have the turbo done so I’d go a few pound more into it to get it right. But that just me. Replace the exhaust camshaft, vacuum pump & injector washers. Then replace oil pump timing chain & strainer @ a later stage an then you’ll have a great car 🤞🤞
Hi Peter,
Good video with lots of details 👌.
I have the same error code.
Is ut enough to replace the vacuum pump or I need to get other parts checked.
Many thanks
If you have a scantool look at brake booster pressure & then crimp the small vacuum pipe coming off the vacuum pump to see if the vacuum readings improve. If it does you have something wrong on the turbo control side, if it doesn’t improve it is just the vacuum pump 😉
Invaluable info !
I believe so, good to be able to see if it is within spec 👍👍
Hello
I have the 2016 cx5 ,I got the p258b error code and the yellow triangle light on dashboard ( no check engine light )
Car drives perfectly , what do you recommend me to do? Is it the vacuum pump?
@@hassanabdulamir4912 your vacuum pump was a most likely gone but if so it’s the exhaust camshaft wearing that caused it to fail 😬😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thankyou for the reply. Will changing the vacuum pump solve this issue? Or more work should be done? There are no really good mechanics in my area
Great video Peter..would you say there is a case to be made that if the vacuum pump need to be changed so too should the exhaust camshaft? Or vice Verda? Which leads me to my primary question..why does the exhaust cam shaft lobes wear so badly? Is it the “sticking” valves which then makes me ask..why do the valves stick so badly on the exhaust side? (..also no progress to report..just getting the Clubman off the ramp today 🫣so hopefully this week and have a 2016 1.6 CDTi Mereva sitting outside the door looking for some TLC..🤪)
Hey Damien, Look at the rockers I sent you. You will see all the lobes that wear have no roller bearing underneath, so steel on steel will wear. Then the exhaust valves only stick due to not being opened because of the worn camshaft. The sticking valves free out very fast once the new camshaft is filled.
As for the vacuum pump failing, they say that is because of the metal from the camshaft 😱😱
That’s a quality video! Do you think it’s reasonably safe to change vacuum pump now and then exhaust camshaft two month later? I have got p258b code on right now.
Yes, that would be fine. The exhaust camshaft being worn will only affect the fuel economy & the Dpf at some point. But that could be 000’s of kms down the line 😉👍👍👍
Great instructive video, thank you
🙏🙏🙏
If the vacuum pump if broken will it have an effect on proformances? I have a ish where at low reves it doesn't have the power it had previously looks like you point towards the exhaust pressure sensor aswell ?
The vacuum pump assists with the brake and controls the turbo. So yes it could effect boost but did you check the turbo change over flap ??
ua-cam.com/video/XJZ3AC2bAtc/v-deo.htmlsi=wpwxlNB4SVRAUaeH
No mate I had a chap come out with his snap on OBD and the The vacuum pump was read silly numbers in excess of 3k so that's the direction we've gone ... The turbo kicks in around 2/2.5 rmp
@@craigbage966 good luck with it mate 🤞🤞🤞
Hello. Very good when people like you show all aspects of job. Can I ask where I can get pump or part number. Thank you
Volodimir
Londo
I show the Mazda part number in my video, just take a screenshot. And the best place to get it is in your local Mazda dealership.
They are easy enough to change 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thank you
Hi peter i bought a cx5 2.2 2016 yellow triangle warning its the vacuum pump. Is it doi g damage driving on it,. ?
Worst cause scenario the brake pedal will feel a bit harder at times & eventually the dpf could block. The exhaust camshaft is most likely worn too. The camshaft wear causes the vacuum pumps to fail 😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks peter. This traingle came on after buying im simi garage,. Had local mech plug in and said vacuum pump. Garage taking it in tmrw, hope i havent bought trouble! He will need to replace the camshaft to be safe and pump??
@@derekryan5760 yes, the camshaft is what caused the vacuum pump to fail. Replace the injector washers when in the too. They can contact me if they need any advice 👍
I can only find your 'part 3' of this part being changed. What happened to pt1 and pt2?
I think I sent that to you, on another comment 🤔🤔
Yeah that's right, you did :)
Very useful I formation Peter thank you 🙏
I’m learning fast on these Mazda’s Kevin & finding that avoiding a problem is better than back pedalling 😂😂😂
I got this P258B code at 78 000miles on mine. Its 2015 mazda. I clear it and it appears regulary every 12-14 engines warm-ups. I monitoring it with ForScan. Its strange I think if pump failed and not creating vacuum code would be permanent but after clearing it I can drive for days and after 12-14 engine worm-ups code appears and it appears when car is iddling after start up on warm engine. Any thoughts?
That is exactly what this video is for. Press the brake a few times before starting. Look at brake booster pressure sensor, it should be 100kpa start & within 30 seconds it should be under 100kpa. If that doesn’t happen you will need a vacuum pump & more than likely an exhaust camshaft 👍👍
Hi Peter, love your channel i watch nearly all your videos. I've started getting problems with my 2013 Mazda 6 2.2 Skyactiv. Error P253F Low Oil Pressure. Is this any easy fix? There's only 97k miles on the clock. I just had it serviced too so its ok with oil and that. Im based in Limerick btw
why is your pump part number different? As long as I know part number for this vacuum pump is SH01-18-G00A. I never seen number SHY5-18-W00C. SH01 is engine code for skyactiv D 2.2. What SHY5 mean?
That I don’t know the answer to, but I do know that quite a few people have told me of price differences on different chassis number vehicles. I must do some research and see if I can find out the answer to that 😉👍👍
sorry if you mentioned it in the video, but whats the symptoms of a failing vacuum pump?
Check engine light on, car goes into limp home mode and P258B fault code stored 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281to what extent you could say You can drive the car with that fault?? Not at all or still a little bit ?
@@theartofflying3108 It can still be driven but the car will most likely be in limp home mode & possibly block the Dpf is driven anymore than a few days.
And be mindful that the vacuum pumps normally fail due to the exhaust camshaft wearing and metal shavings from it causing the vacuum pump to fail.
I have videos on camshaft replacement too if needed for reference 😉👍👍👍
Sorry about my English! But where i work we have a autel 908 and i never see the search ícon on the screan like you have on the video! Can you explain
On the top of the ‘live data’ screen in the very middle, there is a little square icon. Swipe down on that and it opens up a little search bar on the top right hand side. I’ll do a ‘UA-cam short’ on it Monday 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks i Will try next monday...
@@Ricardo_Caracol the search feature is brilliant on them 🤞🤞
What is the cheapest scanning tool that can be used to read the brake booster pressure sensor?
I actually don’t know but I would think you would need to spend around €1000. And possibly a Topdon or Autel or Mehle scantool 🤔🤔
I bought a Vgate vLinker FS yesterday plugged it into my car and a laptop. Downloaded Forscan and was looking at this live data in 10 minutes.
It cost me £27 on Amazon and £10 for the software.
Give it a go it's great. Let's you code other features on the car as well not just fault diagnosis.
Hallo, habe einen Fehlercode p258b gebrauchte Pumpe eingebaut und wieder das gleiche Problem.
Beide Pumpen getestet und beide laufen gleich schnell runter. Kann man die Videos mal euch zeigen?
Bei meinem Auto wurde im Motorbereich fast alles neu eingebaut. Hydrostößel, Kipphebel, Zylinderkopf usw. Hatte verkorkung und alles wurde gereinigt. Danach kam der Fehler p258b nach 50 km und geht nicht mehr weg.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsfRWxpZJRPo4?feature=shared
I am unable to translate the 2nd message.
But have you replaced the oil strainer on the newer pump ???
If not i would advise replacing it, they a very common to block 😉👍👍
⚙️⚒️🔧🛠️ more good info 😊
Hey Anto, this is going to help avoid what is happening in the last comment. Intermittent vacuum pump faults 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 yes the more people posting about more things like this the better it’s will always help people out thanks again Peter keep it up 👍
Currently selling a 2015 Mazda 3 2.2D with 163000 miles (262000 km) and I have an unpleasant feeling that the vacuum pump is packing in. Ever wished you'd sold a car a year ago? 😅
Do a 3 point turn in the car & after pressing the brake a few times while turning see if it gets harder. A simple way to test the vacuum pump 😉
I actually have a Topdon diagnostics machine and was able to replicate your results almost bang on. Had it booked in to get the work done in Belfast and lo and behold, someone bought it. I'm guilt free because I did tell them and took a few quid off to compensate. (Still glad
It's not my problem) 😄.
@@Ballysillanone 💪💪💪
Where do you get the parts from please
I buy all my parts from the mazda dealership & keep a large stock of parts ready to go at all times
thanks mate
It might come in useful someday 😉👍👍👍
Insightful
Nice to be able to prove your vacuum pump bad before changing 🤔🤔
Boyo, is it not relevant to tell us the mileage at which all these problems occur? (Please don't give me 'driving style' 5% variances)
This vehicle had 182,000kms or around 100,000mls. But I have changed these vacuum pumps & camshaft’s as early as 120,000kms or 85,000mls. Unfortunately there is no exact number I can give, but hopefully this gives you a guide 🤞🤞
I got this P258B code at 78 000miles on mine.
First showed up at 60k miles P258B. 🤐
@@elmassari yes, the mileage can be quite varied 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
If I new what I no now I wouldn't of brought 1 😂😂 amazing car till you get all the Christmas lights on the dash
They can be expensive to own, the best and least expensive way to fix them is to do a cylinder head gasket and all related bits that fail. Around 5k but done once and for all 😬😬😬