Took me two hours on my back with jackstands, but your vid enabled me to do this. Hardest task was repositioning the diff to the length of the new arms. They shifted after removal and I used a breaker bar as a prybar to move the assembly. Thank you for this. VERY clear and helpful!
you guys give good vids. Thanx. Couldn't help but notice the rusty rear axle for such a new car. I recently replaced my control arms and it was a pain to do with a set of jacks and no lift.
Nice video bill! Only sucky thing is if you’re under your car on jack stands, it’s hard to get the right leverage for 130 foot pounds lol but great video!
Just got done installing hahaha just if you dont have lift an you on the ground just note that the axle will shift an inch I recommend having buddy helping you if you dont you'll definitely need to go to church asap for all the cussing you'll be doing lol
@@ChoomMedia I ended up using my jackstand to "walk it" back into place, lifted it up and moved the jack slightly towards the front and kept dropping and lifting until it lined up 🤣
I have these control arm upgrades (LCA/UCA). Awesome product, HUGE difference in performance. My question is, after how long should we come back and re grease them? I’ve had mine for a year and a half now
On a scale of 1 to 5, easy to hard, this is a 1. But you need the right tools to do it without a lift. I would recommend 2 floor jacks under the car and 2 jack stands under the differential.
They are not noisy at all. If you have rod ends on both sides you will increase noise and vibration but as long as one side is poly there is no noticeable increase.
I installed this same setup on mine and ordered the parts through you guys but now notice a slight whirring noise from the back center of the car. Any idea what this could be from? Is it from the stiffer bushings? It doesn't get louder or quieter it just is present at all speeds and has only been that way since I did the eibach and bmr lca.
What are the lower control arm drop brackets for? Is this more for a lowered mustang application? I understand the adjustable upper is to correct pinion angle but why the drop brackets for the lowers?
Push down on that top bracket. There is some play and this will allow you to stretch the cable just enough to get everything line up and the clip back in place.
@cjponyparts thank you! 😊 lol I called your competitor (AM) and they said "ughh idk 🤷♂️ call bmr k thanks!" LOL 😆 bmr said the same . "Yeah you're good just send it!" Me" so just fill until I see it come out?" BMR " yeah worst case scenario you make a mess and have to clean up. But, just make sure you use full synthetic grease" Thank you again cj ❤️ appreciate your response 👍 🙏 pretty cool you take time to respond like this on youtube 😀 👍
You can use mobil1 synthetic grease, super lube or amsoil. These are the best brands you can use for the lower control arms bushings. Make sure they all synthetic grease!
@@ChoomMedia funny I just fixed it yesterday. I made sure the cable was routed under the control arms but also, only use one zip tie, on the metal sleeve. I was using 2 zip ties on each side before, over tightened I guess.
Wouldn't it be better to run the brake line along the top of the control arm and zip tie it there? I am worried that if something were to hit the brake line from the bottom (if you were to hit a pothole or have road debris kick up) it would snap or be damaged and then no brakes - with it running along the top, the control arm protects the line ? I am no expert by any means, please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks
I guess I'm maybe the only guy that had trouble with this. The rear bolt came out ok but, the front bolt would not come out from rusting and it locked on to the bushing sleeve which was fighting me like hell. After an hour of trying it still would not budge so I gave up and put it back together. So I guess I have to cut the bolts cause you just can't get in there to hit it with a hammer or pin. The new bolts cost about 9 bucks a piece and if you get new nuts your looking at about 40.00 to replace them. I have a 2014 and live in Michigan, if you want to do this upgrade don't wait till everything gets rusty.
Bill I did the bmr uca and bracket and the lca install I’m lowered about 1” and swapped to a one piece aluminum drive shaft but I noticed a clunk noise when applying the clutch with just the adjustable Panhard bar and lower control arms. I added the upper thinking it was the weak link, and then the two piece driveshaft I swapped for a single aluminum noise never went away. Is this possible a pinion angle issue? What else could cause this not normal nvh only when apply clutch accelerating or down shifting please advise if hate to think I have all these parts for no reason I don’t want to put back on until I know what may have been causing it so back to stock for now
Adrian B No, they look the same as factory control arms, but they have stiffer bushings than the factory bushings. The Ford Racing lower control arms were the standard control arms for the 2007-2012 GT500.
I have a completely newbie question. Do you need to bleed the brake lines a little after disconnecting them? I assume the quick connectors keep them air tight, but just checking.
I'm doing this as we speak and the rear part of the LCA isn't going in. its not lined up. I don't know what it's not just sliding on like the one in the video did.
I completely disregard my last statement. I installed another pair of SR LCA's last night on my friends 06' GT and the fitment was a nightmare on it. The bigger side went in fine, the smaller side was nearly impossible. I don't know why it went so easily on my 07'. I agree, spend the extra $20 and get the BMR's for future reference.
+61484 Should be up by tomorrow. BMR adjustable upper and mount. I explained pinion angle and how to measure and adjust it but didn't show it since it would be boring to watch me turn a control arm
Installed some of these recently and noticed some improvement in traction immediately. Well made product as well.
Took me two hours on my back with jackstands, but your vid enabled me to do this.
Hardest task was repositioning the diff to the length of the new arms. They shifted after removal and I used a breaker bar as a prybar to move the assembly.
Thank you for this. VERY clear and helpful!
SharpByCoop how did you shift it back?
Around 2:00 he states to do one side at a time and to put the stands under the axle to prevent shifting.
@@MrDirtyRod Good to know!
Thanks for the video. Good detail. I installed mine this afternoon, took around 2 hours.
you guys give good vids. Thanx. Couldn't help but notice the rusty rear axle for such a new car. I recently replaced my control arms and it was a pain to do with a set of jacks and no lift.
Just installed my BMR lower control arms👌 They went in perfect!
Nice video bill! Only sucky thing is if you’re under your car on jack stands, it’s hard to get the right leverage for 130 foot pounds lol but great video!
Thank you!
Just got done installing hahaha just if you dont have lift an you on the ground just note that the axle will shift an inch I recommend having buddy helping you if you dont you'll definitely need to go to church asap for all the cussing you'll be doing lol
how do you move it?
@@Roxanne3v I used folding chair, I shit you not
@@Roxanne3v try using a screwdriver to pry it and line it up need to raise and lower diff
@@ChoomMedia I ended up using my jackstand to "walk it" back into place, lifted it up and moved the jack slightly towards the front and kept dropping and lifting until it lined up 🤣
Use one at a time so the rear don't shift
I have these control arm upgrades (LCA/UCA). Awesome product, HUGE difference in performance. My question is, after how long should we come back and re grease them? I’ve had mine for a year and a half now
On a scale of 1 to 5, easy to hard, this is a 1. But you need the right tools to do it without a lift. I would recommend 2 floor jacks under the car and 2 jack stands under the differential.
They are not noisy at all. If you have rod ends on both sides you will increase noise and vibration but as long as one side is poly there is no noticeable increase.
I installed this same setup on mine and ordered the parts through you guys but now notice a slight whirring noise from the back center of the car. Any idea what this could be from? Is it from the stiffer bushings? It doesn't get louder or quieter it just is present at all speeds and has only been that way since I did the eibach and bmr lca.
Kyle Churley The bushings are stiffer than the factory so any noise from your rear will be slightly amplified.
What type of grease is applied on edge of bushings?
I love these videos very helpful thanks.
Great vid, helped me save $$$ by just doing it myself. Keep up the good work!
Why did you grease the fittings at 4:02? What are they for?
+good cole The bushing in the control arm is greasable
wont the brake wire tear down when the part move from time to time lock with tyrap
As long as there is a little play it will be fine.
I put the rear control arms on and I didn't put the zip ties on the tie the wire down and now I hear a like clicking noise when I hit the brake
Awsome video!!!! Thanx
What are the lower control arm drop brackets for? Is this more for a lowered mustang application? I understand the adjustable upper is to correct pinion angle but why the drop brackets for the lowers?
They're to correct suspension geometry once the car is lowered so it can handle accelerate and launch properly.
CJ Pony Parts thanks for the reply and thanks for clearing that up for me.
What exhaust is that at the end of the video?
American Racing Header 1 7/8 long tubes. 3 in off road X pipe, FRPP Sport Touring mufflers.
is there something I missed? any idea on how to get the driver side brake line back into proper position?
+Mayhem W Yeah man look at 4:04
Push down on that top bracket. There is some play and this will allow you to stretch the cable just enough to get everything line up and the clip back in place.
Could a bad bushing on these cause the wheel to wobble? ( shocks, springs, top rear control arm, and rear axle replaced)
Not likely, worn bushings would be noisy and make the rear move around but not a wobble. That is usually the axle or wheel.
How much grease do you use to grease these fittings and can you over grease and cause damage?
Fill them until the grease pushes out. Very difficult to use too much, it simply will not go in.
@cjponyparts thank you! 😊 lol I called your competitor (AM) and they said "ughh idk 🤷♂️ call bmr k thanks!" LOL 😆 bmr said the same . "Yeah you're good just send it!" Me" so just fill until I see it come out?" BMR " yeah worst case scenario you make a mess and have to clean up. But, just make sure you use full synthetic grease"
Thank you again cj ❤️ appreciate your response 👍 🙏 pretty cool you take time to respond like this on youtube 😀 👍
would you use gloves for your protection.
having trouble getting last parking break cable back on, any tips or tricks? not sure what else to try
which grease is best for these bmr poly bushings ?
im also wondering
Plus 1
You can use mobil1 synthetic grease, super lube or amsoil. These are the best brands you can use for the lower control arms bushings. Make sure they all synthetic grease!
Does it matter if you route the parking brake cable over the top or the bottom? Only asking because I'm having parking brake issues
Same mine just stopped working after install how did you fix it
@@ChoomMedia funny I just fixed it yesterday. I made sure the cable was routed under the control arms but also, only use one zip tie, on the metal sleeve. I was using 2 zip ties on each side before, over tightened I guess.
What is the part called you connected the rear of the control are too
Is it normal that after this install i hear my Driveshaft more? This ugly clocking noise
Jarvis Clark I am getting the same noises, However I have J&M adjustable LCA and they didn’t come with bushings.
Question about front lower control arm is it 2005 and 2011 are the same size of front lower control arm? Thanks
What kinda grease in the grease gun?
Slippery grease
Wouldn't it be better to run the brake line along the top of the control arm and zip tie it there? I am worried that if something were to hit the brake line from the bottom (if you were to hit a pothole or have road debris kick up) it would snap or be damaged and then no brakes - with it running along the top, the control arm protects the line ? I am no expert by any means, please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks
Did you ever figure it out? I'm probably going to do this on the weekend and will run it at the top
I guess I'm maybe the only guy that had trouble with this. The rear bolt came out ok but, the front bolt would not come out from rusting and it locked on to the bushing sleeve which was fighting me like hell. After an hour of trying it still would not budge so I gave up and put it back together. So I guess I have to cut the bolts cause you just can't get in there to hit it with a hammer or pin. The new bolts cost about 9 bucks a piece and if you get new nuts your looking at about 40.00 to replace them. I have a 2014 and live in Michigan, if you want to do this upgrade don't wait till everything gets rusty.
I have seen the sleeve issue but usually on older cars than this. Gotta love those Michigan winters!
I'm having this problem right now and it SUCKS.
Penetrating oil and impact gun.
Bill I did the bmr uca and bracket and the lca install I’m lowered about 1” and swapped to a one piece aluminum drive shaft but I noticed a clunk noise when applying the clutch with just the adjustable Panhard bar and lower control arms. I added the upper thinking it was the weak link, and then the two piece driveshaft I swapped for a single aluminum noise never went away. Is this possible a pinion angle issue? What else could cause this not normal nvh only when apply clutch accelerating or down shifting please advise if hate to think I have all these parts for no reason I don’t want to put back on until I know what may have been causing it so back to stock for now
Did you ever figure this out?
@@joshhartman1169 if he just installed the lower control arms while lowered he needed the relocation bracket for the LCA’s to fix the pinion angle
Just a quick question, I want to make sure I didn't miss anything. Should Loctite be used on the bolts upon reinstallation? Thanks.
The bolts have some from the factory, while not 100% necessary it can't hurt either.
Is this also considered a rear track arm? thanks!
Will these work on a lowered "2 mustang? Or will I need adjustable LCA?
you should do one adjustable
What's the benefit of adjustable control arms?
Should you buy new hardware when you install these?
Ford reccommends a lot of their hardware as one time use only but I have never had any issues reusing the stock hardware.
Please do one for the upper control arm please
From BMR
I had to undo one side of one of these the other day to remove the brake housing bolt, so I could replace my rear rotors. Lame.
I have a set of American racing lower arms,someone told me that they are the same as factory ones,is that true??
I can't say I have ever heard of American Racing control arms
Sorry i meant ford racing
Adrian B
No, they look the same as factory control arms, but they have stiffer bushings than the factory bushings. The Ford Racing lower control arms were the standard control arms for the 2007-2012 GT500.
2509SilverLink thanks.
Adrian B
No problem. :) I've been looking at the Ford Racing arms for my 2005 to replace the worn out lower arms.
Are lower arms the same for gt and gt track pack??
What year? My 2014 gt500 stock lowers look just like the GTs. Anyone know which way offset goes.?
I have a completely newbie question. Do you need to bleed the brake lines a little after disconnecting them? I assume the quick connectors keep them air tight, but just checking.
There is no brake bleeding required to install these.
Ok, I see now it was only the emergency brake cable... not a hydraulic brake (fluid) line!
Are relocation brackets necessary on a lowered S197?
Yes I would recommend them for any lowered S197.
I'm doing this as we speak and the rear part of the LCA isn't going in. its not lined up. I don't know what it's not just sliding on like the one in the video did.
It all depends on how you supported the axle when you removed the arm, sometimes you need to twist the rear back into place to get it to line up.
Man I should have bought the BMR LCA's. The SR's I got were a real bitch to get in on the forward side
+Colin1337 I installed the SR's last week on my 07' without any fitment issue. Did you grease them and the assembly beforehand?
+Matt Patrick I greased the outside so they would go on smoothly. I'm going to buy a grease gun this weekend and grease the fittings finally
I completely disregard my last statement. I installed another pair of SR LCA's last night on my friends 06' GT and the fitment was a nightmare on it. The bigger side went in fine, the smaller side was nearly impossible. I don't know why it went so easily on my 07'. I agree, spend the extra $20 and get the BMR's for future reference.
Come on guys do a upper control arm and chassis mount install video and pinion angle too
+61484 We are shooting one today actually.
+Bill Tumas cool, because im gonna install one on my 2013 GT BMR chassis mount and bmr upper control arm adjustable one
When will it be uploaded?
+61484 Should be up by tomorrow. BMR adjustable upper and mount. I explained pinion angle and how to measure and adjust it but didn't show it since it would be boring to watch me turn a control arm
cool thanks
Why does a control arm have a grease fitting if theres no.ball joint ?? Nice video
To keep them from squeaking.
Ummm bushings?
how noisy are the bmr adjustable lower arms?
Did you ever get an answer?
Sin sentido
What exhaust is that at the end of the video?