There are more than several videos out there for changing spark plugs and wires on this engine and its 3.3L cousin. Of those I've seen, this one is the best, because it shows you going through the effort of getting those back spark plugs out and in. I don't replace spark plugs on a regular enough basis to remember the "tips of the trade". Gap the plugs? Use anti-seize and how much? Use dielectric grease and how much? I have a 2009 T&C with the 3.3L engine which, interestingly, uses the same firing order as shown in this video. My T&C has 144,000 miles on it, and I'm certain the plugs and wires were never changed before today. I could not get the wires off the plugs without leaving the clamps from the wires stuck on the plugs. Thankfully, I'm replacing both the wires and the plugs, so no biggie. The clamps were easily removed using pliers. The ground electrodes were well "worn" and the gaps exceeded the 0.050" spec. The advice on gapping and anti-seize are *very* dependent on the replacement spark plug. I'm using Bosch Double Iridium plugs, and the packaging explicitly states "Do not gap" and "Do not use anti-seize". I've heard before that attempting to gap iridium plugs may actually damage them. The Bosch plugs were pre-gapped to 0.050" and that matches the spec for my van.
Great camera angle and light. Wish you have a chance to do spark plugs for 2007-2010 Sienna minivan 3.5 V6. All videos available miss a point or more especially the plenum back screw (they do the hard top one instead of the lower one). Most of them are non pros.
Great video. Thanks for this. I am going to do this on my 10 T&C this Sunday. She's got 222k ok her and I don't think the plugs have been changed ever, atleast not in the last 130k for sure. What was the length on the extension you used?
The prophets of the car gods have foretold of this event for decades. If one does not gap their plugs, then Russia will invade Ukraine and start WW3. What have you done?!? Seriously though, it will probably run rough.
Engine manufacturers determine the exact gap that gives the best performance. If the gap is too big or too small, performance and gas mileage will suffer, and your plugs may wear prematurely. Some plugs come "pre-gapped". I've heard that gapping iridium plugs could damage them; these will come pre-gapped.
There are more than several videos out there for changing spark plugs and wires on this engine and its 3.3L cousin. Of those I've seen, this one is the best, because it shows you going through the effort of getting those back spark plugs out and in. I don't replace spark plugs on a regular enough basis to remember the "tips of the trade". Gap the plugs? Use anti-seize and how much? Use dielectric grease and how much?
I have a 2009 T&C with the 3.3L engine which, interestingly, uses the same firing order as shown in this video. My T&C has 144,000 miles on it, and I'm certain the plugs and wires were never changed before today. I could not get the wires off the plugs without leaving the clamps from the wires stuck on the plugs. Thankfully, I'm replacing both the wires and the plugs, so no biggie. The clamps were easily removed using pliers. The ground electrodes were well "worn" and the gaps exceeded the 0.050" spec.
The advice on gapping and anti-seize are *very* dependent on the replacement spark plug. I'm using Bosch Double Iridium plugs, and the packaging explicitly states "Do not gap" and "Do not use anti-seize". I've heard before that attempting to gap iridium plugs may actually damage them. The Bosch plugs were pre-gapped to 0.050" and that matches the spec for my van.
Excellent video. Inspiring how easy you made
this! Thank you!!!
Thank you bro. I’m doing this today 🙏
Thanks for the video, it’s very helpful. I’m going to do it today. Thanks a lot
Awesome video. Thanks for the help. Now I know how to change spark plugs. lol Saves me money.
Great camera angle and light. Wish you have a chance to do spark plugs for 2007-2010 Sienna minivan 3.5 V6.
All videos available miss a point or more especially the plenum back screw (they do the hard top one instead of the lower one). Most of them are non pros.
Great simple video. Thank you. If you get this before I try later today, why did you replace them? Mine is idling rough. Thanks!
Just general maintenance, it was running ok. But the owner said it ran a little better after changing them.
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan thank you for the very kind and quick reply!
Great video. Thanks for this. I am going to do this on my 10 T&C this Sunday. She's got 222k ok her and I don't think the plugs have been changed ever, atleast not in the last 130k for sure.
What was the length on the extension you used?
Doing this on my 10 town n country thank u fam
Excellent video. Thanks!
Well Done!!
.044 is the proper gap.
What happens if you don't gap the spark plugs?
The prophets of the car gods have foretold of this event for decades. If one does not gap their plugs, then Russia will invade Ukraine and start WW3. What have you done?!?
Seriously though, it will probably run rough.
Engine manufacturers determine the exact gap that gives the best performance. If the gap is too big or too small, performance and gas mileage will suffer, and your plugs may wear prematurely. Some plugs come "pre-gapped". I've heard that gapping iridium plugs could damage them; these will come pre-gapped.
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