I believe "best practices" is to always disconnect the negative battery terminal first. That way, if you accidentally touch the red wire to any part of the car's metal frame, you won't accidentally complete the circuit.
That's exactly what we were questioning. From what we have seen on many DIY videos, is that it's always better to disconnect the negative terminal whenever you are working on anything electrical.
12v likely won't kill you, but it will get your attention! Throwing sparks around sensitive electronic equipment is not a good idea. Since you can never tell what might happen to you or the car, NEVER work on anything electrical without removing the negative terminal FIRST!
Wow that is so cool to hear! I'm in the wrong field. I should be charging people 300 bucks to do such a simple job. But I wouldnt be able to sleep at night. Lol. I'm so glad this helped you! Thanks for commenting!
Battery isn’t going to explode but I’m glad you’re hyper aware of your surroundings and I’m happy people believe the battery will explode if it means they’re more careful. Nice video
I just did this on my 2009 CR-V by using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to put a groove in both sides of the crimp in parallel with the lay of the wire strands. Once I got the grooves deep enough, it popped apart with a screwdriver and I lost at most one or two strands. You do have to be patient and go slow so as not to cut into the wire strands. Doing it this way, I lost no length and didn't have to strip any insulation. The only caveat is to make sure you cover up the engine bay with a cloth or cardboard to keep the everything free of the copper grindings and/or use compressed air to blow the particles off everything. I did both. Now I have a 10mm OEM clamp and a 1/2" Autozone clamp. Big deal.
Great video, thank you! Guess who else has had this problem??? I've no idea why Honda (and Toyota) have these really crappy connectors, it's like they want this to happen a few months out of warranty...
What?! They would never do that or build stuff to break down to make a profit! Lol. Don't forget mitsubishi. They build expensive parts that could be so much more basic. My grandma's talent has a worn down negative cable that is 500 dollars. We temporarily put a nail between the connector and battery post. Lol
Hi Ricky. Super quick reply! Just wondering what symptoms you had with your CRV? Mine is a really weird fast ticking sound when I turn the ignition key. I'd put aluminium foil wrapped round the terminal to beef up the connection but I'm SO pleased I just saw your video. I'm in the UK, sounds like you're in the US? You're so lucky having the 2.4L petrol - we're got stitched up with an underpowered 2 litre unfortunately. Cheers.
@@randomrandomness8743 That fast ticking sound does sound like a bad battery connection. The crv is not mine. I changed the battery connector because it was actually the starter going bad and it sounded like a dead battery so I assumed it was the crappy connector when in reality it was the starter going bad!. I am in the US. I will go look when i get a chance
@@randomrandomness8743 U think it was this one. Advance is an auto part store in the U S . shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-terminal-fleet-lead-free-cast-zinc-ac166-a1500107/6281729-P?searchTerm=battery+terminals
You left the negative connected? Also missed the fact you can get battery terminal insulators .. always supplied with a new battery. Never throw these away and put them in your toolbox after fitting a new battery. But please disconnect the negative. Good little video though.
The easiest and the best way is to cut the old terminal with either a dremel or a hacksaw where it crimps the two wires and use that to keep the wires together
Hey, Ricky, thanks for this video. We have a 2005 CRV EX too, that recently had exact battery issues that you mentioned. After panicking, we brought terminal shim for a temporary fix. But ultimately plan to replace the terminal connector, because the old terminal cannot tighten enough. One question, we noticed that you did not put the wire casing back. Is there a reason why?
What I am not getting from the video are the symptoms that the corroded terminal caused. Where you getting a slow crank, battery dying, vehicle stalling while driving?
We recently got a lot of symptoms with our 2005 Honda CRV EX, due to loose positive cable connector. The blot was closed as far as possible, and it was still loose on the terminal. On several occasions we experienced no power to start the engine, dashboard lights flickering. Then problems expanded to random acceleration on the highway, engine revering, and SVA warning lights. They all went away when we pulled over, turned off / on engine. As a temporary fix, we brought battery shims to expand the dimension for the terminal, and allowed us to tighten the battery connector,
Car battery should never be free to move, it has a metal hold down strap running across the top which is there to keep battery from sliding around. This strap should be tightened so that battery cannot be shifted y hand in any direction in its tray. A loose battery strap will cause the battery to bounce/slide and fail early because of road vibrations damaging lead plates inside the battery.
Soooo, Merely uncrimping the original clamp wasn't an option? You hacked the wires off and now have to resplice them back together? Keep making that cable shorter and you will have the pleasure of a trip to the dealer.....
Just did this .. lost about 6-10of the copper pieces total from the positive between two wires. Seems okay lol I don’t think that little amount would do anything
how did you know the positive side was the problem and not the negative?
5 років тому+1
Ricky Adames here. I guessed. This is a great question though. The only way that you can tell If your wire has a really bad connection to the battery terminal is with a multimeter or an inductive ammeter that clamps around the site to see how much electrons are going through it. This latter way is a more difficult method to use because u need to have an idea of what is a normal amperage. Most people won't know. I wouldnt. An easier way To see if you battery connection is really crappy is to get a volunteer. Probe the lead battery terminal coming out of the battery's hard case with the positive probe and put the negative probe on the other end of the wire while set to direct current volts (not the insulation but the actual exposed wire) going to the starter or the fuse box distribution center . If the voltage says more than. 0.5 than your voltage drop Is more then Nomal. A normal voltage drop should be less then 0.5 between any 2 points . If you put the positive probe on one end of the negative wire Coming from the starter back-to the negative battery terminal (some cars dont have a cable like this but it works with any circuit with a load like a light or fan or windshield wipers) you will see that there is still some voltage left in the wire before it actually gets back-to the battery. Just a fun fact . I hope this was not too technical and that it helped you
5 років тому+1
Another way you can try to get your car to give you a hint is by Wiggling a wire or connexion that you think is bad. If you start your car and jiggle the positive battery cable around while your car is running and your car acts up then that means you're connection is bad or loose or both
I believe "best practices" is to always disconnect the negative battery terminal first. That way, if you accidentally touch the red wire to any part of the car's metal frame, you won't accidentally complete the circuit.
That is the best practice. And it can keep the battery from exploding. Lol
@@rickyadames7714 as long as the battery is disconnected do i have to worry about being shocked or electricuted
That's exactly what we were questioning. From what we have seen on many DIY videos, is that it's always better to disconnect the negative terminal whenever you are working on anything electrical.
@@elizabethsparks4683 the 12V battery can't shock you, the voltage is too low.
12v likely won't kill you, but it will get your attention! Throwing sparks around sensitive electronic equipment is not a good idea. Since you can never tell what might happen to you or the car, NEVER work on anything electrical without removing the negative terminal FIRST!
Great video!!! Im a novice car guy and you saved me 299 bucks! Your instructions were clear and straight forward!!! Thanks again!!
Wow that is so cool to hear! I'm in the wrong field. I should be charging people 300 bucks to do such a simple job. But I wouldnt be able to sleep at night. Lol. I'm so glad this helped you! Thanks for commenting!
Great! I have the same car and same problem. Just came back from the store with new battery terminals. Wish me luck 😂
Battery isn’t going to explode but I’m glad you’re hyper aware of your surroundings and I’m happy people believe the battery will explode if it means they’re more careful.
Nice video
Comes back, and where one beer now are two! 😂👍🏽 thanks for this video bruh.
I just did this on my 2009 CR-V by using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to put a groove in both sides of the crimp in parallel with the lay of the wire strands. Once I got the grooves deep enough, it popped apart with a screwdriver and I lost at most one or two strands. You do have to be patient and go slow so as not to cut into the wire strands. Doing it this way, I lost no length and didn't have to strip any insulation. The only caveat is to make sure you cover up the engine bay with a cloth or cardboard to keep the everything free of the copper grindings and/or use compressed air to blow the particles off everything. I did both. Now I have a 10mm OEM clamp and a 1/2" Autozone clamp. Big deal.
Great video, thank you! Guess who else has had this problem??? I've no idea why Honda (and Toyota) have these really crappy connectors, it's like they want this to happen a few months out of warranty...
What?! They would never do that or build stuff to break down to make a profit! Lol. Don't forget mitsubishi. They build expensive parts that could be so much more basic. My grandma's talent has a worn down negative cable that is 500 dollars. We temporarily put a nail between the connector and battery post. Lol
Hi Ricky. Super quick reply! Just wondering what symptoms you had with your CRV? Mine is a really weird fast ticking sound when I turn the ignition key. I'd put aluminium foil wrapped round the terminal to beef up the connection but I'm SO pleased I just saw your video. I'm in the UK, sounds like you're in the US? You're so lucky having the 2.4L petrol - we're got stitched up with an underpowered 2 litre unfortunately. Cheers.
@@randomrandomness8743
That fast ticking sound does sound like a bad battery connection. The crv is not mine. I changed the battery connector because it was actually the starter going bad and it sounded like a dead battery so I assumed it was the crappy connector when in reality it was the starter going bad!. I am in the US. I will go look when i get a chance
@@randomrandomness8743
U think it was this one. Advance is an auto part store in the U S .
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-terminal-fleet-lead-free-cast-zinc-ac166-a1500107/6281729-P?searchTerm=battery+terminals
Thanks Ricky for the link. I will take a look this side of the pond and see what I can find. Cheers.
This guys has a steady hand lol keeping that ground plugged 😀 brave
Bud light certified heard everything u said brotha info helped me out
When I saw he still had the negative terminal still on i stop watching. That is a No No
Thank you bro saved me 600$
You left the negative connected? Also missed the fact you can get battery terminal insulators .. always supplied with a new battery. Never throw these away and put them in your toolbox after fitting a new battery. But please disconnect the negative. Good little video though.
Thank you so much ❤
You sound like John C Reilly’s character from Wreck it Ralph “I’m gunna wreck it!”
Omg, LMAO
Why is the negative battery terminal still connected. Anyone watching this video, you need to disconnect the negative battery terminal first.
true
The easiest and the best way is to cut the old terminal with either a dremel or a hacksaw where it crimps the two wires and use that to keep the wires together
Another pro tip.. take the battery out .
Battery shims might be easier and better?
Where do I buy those battery terminals and what material are they made of?
Hey, Ricky, thanks for this video. We have a 2005 CRV EX too, that recently had exact battery issues that you mentioned. After panicking, we brought terminal shim for a temporary fix. But ultimately plan to replace the terminal connector, because the old terminal cannot tighten enough. One question, we noticed that you did not put the wire casing back. Is there a reason why?
i probably did not remember til after the video. i cant remember :(
were you talking about the red plastic plus sign? I just forgot to put it back on.
@@rickyadames7714 yes. But no problem. We actually brought a similar pair that can with the connector covers.
Can not tight enough. You can put a part of Cooper inside , Then tight.
What I am not getting from the video are the symptoms that the corroded terminal caused. Where you getting a slow crank, battery dying, vehicle stalling while driving?
We recently got a lot of symptoms with our 2005 Honda CRV EX, due to loose positive cable connector. The blot was closed as far as possible, and it was still loose on the terminal. On several occasions we experienced no power to start the engine, dashboard lights flickering. Then problems expanded to random acceleration on the highway, engine revering, and SVA warning lights. They all went away when we pulled over, turned off / on engine. As a temporary fix, we brought battery shims to expand the dimension for the terminal, and allowed us to tighten the battery connector,
@@HeartSoulLeake You can put some cooper stuff inside. Then tighten.
@@Woodywu2010 after closer inspection, I saw that the original connectors needed to be replaced. That's what we did, and problem solved 👏🏿
ALWAYS wear safety glasses when working on your battery!!!
My advice disconnect positive and negative terminal before you start to do anything about wiring
Great advice! lol.
Car battery should never be free to move, it has a metal hold down strap running across the top which is there to keep battery from sliding around. This strap should be tightened so that battery cannot be shifted y hand in any direction in its tray. A loose battery strap will cause the battery to bounce/slide and fail early because of road vibrations damaging lead plates inside the battery.
do you believe in life after love?
Yes. Haha
Why not completely REMOVE THE BATTERY to replace the terminal?
Disconnect the negative wire first. Just leave the wires crimped together and use that to put onto yur replacement. :) DONE
Explain, please..
Soooo,
Merely uncrimping the original clamp wasn't an option? You hacked the wires off and now have to resplice them back together?
Keep making that cable shorter and you will have the pleasure of a trip to the dealer.....
I didnt have uncrimpers on me. Is that a thing?
Ricky Adames Use your teeth......lol.
@@bongofury5924 lol. i think some sort of cutting wheel would be good if you are careful
@@rickyadames7714 I was just being a smart a#%.
Just did this .. lost about 6-10of the copper pieces total from the positive between two wires. Seems okay lol I don’t think that little amount would do anything
haha, maybe it wont matter!
Hey that was the original battery ?
I'm not sure. It wasnt my car :(
Terminal de bateria .
you can drink Bud Light...or real beer
Lol. That's all they had at the party. Definitely not my first choice of beer!
how did you know the positive side was the problem and not the negative?
Ricky Adames here. I guessed. This is a great question though. The only way that you can tell If your wire has a really bad connection to the battery terminal is with a multimeter or an inductive ammeter that clamps around the site to see how much electrons are going through it. This latter way is a more difficult method to use because u need to have an idea of what is a normal amperage. Most people won't know. I wouldnt. An easier way To see if you battery connection is really crappy is to get a volunteer. Probe the lead battery terminal coming out of the battery's hard case with the positive probe and put the negative probe on the other end of the wire while set to direct current volts (not the insulation but the actual exposed wire) going to the starter or the fuse box distribution center . If the voltage says more than. 0.5 than your voltage drop Is more then Nomal. A normal voltage drop should be less then 0.5 between any 2 points . If you put the positive probe on one end of the negative wire Coming from the starter back-to the negative battery terminal (some cars dont have a cable like this but it works with any circuit with a load like a light or fan or windshield wipers) you will see that there is still some voltage left in the wire before it actually gets back-to the battery. Just a fun fact . I hope this was not too technical and that it helped you
Another way you can try to get your car to give you a hint is by Wiggling a wire or connexion that you think is bad. If you start your car and jiggle the positive battery cable around while your car is running and your car acts up then that means you're connection is bad or loose or both
It was loose I think. Cant remember
Ouf a bud light drinker
the audio quality sucks. It is so annoying!
Comes back, and where one beer now are two! 😂👍🏽 thanks for this video bruh.