I just replaced the pcv diaphragm on my 2015 R design for 35 $ from Dorman. I'm only at 70,000 miles, but have been running a stage 2 setup for 25,000 miles. Not sure if all the extra boost makes the diaphragm fail sooner or not. It's funny whenever I work on my car you put out a video a couple of weeks later on what I just did, and from what I can tell we live reasonably close. I'm down in Canby, keep up the videos.
Yea this whole think was like $65. The diaphragm goes bad and the ball that in the assembly gets stuck that in the tube that goes from the intake pipe into the oil trap assembly.
Mine just went bad too. I noticed the Dorman replacement. Can you simply buy that little part and avoid having to replace the entire box? And how tricky was the install? Thanks!
I just replaced pcv diaphragm our xc60 t6 at just under 70k miles. But it’s 10 years old so not surprised. I think it cost me $30 for the diaphragm kit. Simple fix. Didn’t need to replace the whole trap.
Just got myself a s40 2.4 and did the glove test and found that it wasn't sucking the glove in. So it's going back as soon as the xmas holidays are over. It's a £300-£400 job here in the 🇬🇧 Putting the PCV under the manifold was a bad design. Great video by the way.
im at 100k and it started making a weird noise, i thought for the longest time its a belt or pulley because its very similar sound. gonna be replacing soon.
I have never changed it and now have 250,000km. should I change it as quickly as possible? When you step on the gas you hear something like it's taking in the wrong air, but it could also be from the turbo...
I am going to replace thetv to my 2011, xc60 t6. The question is: the rear piece manifold tube seats on top of left side of pcv. you able to raise the rear manifold tube so you could reach the screw under the tube. In order to do that, did you only need to loss the small pipe and the front to the tube? I see the tube is tied deep behind the pcv and very hard to reach.
Thanks for another informative video. I'm currently working on replacing this on my 2012 rdesign. I ran into a couple of snags and would appreciate your expertise: a. Did pry off the old hose clamp with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one? b. To access/remove the guide screws, do you need to bend back the firewall cover (seems very snug in there)? c. How do you go about removing the tcv solenoid? Thanks again, your videos are a lifesaver.
Yes pryed it off with screw driver and put regular clamp on. And no i just felt it out wigh my hand and used wobbly socket. And tcv just slides off i believe. I think i mentioned it in the video.
@@BuiltForSpeed just got around to replacing the PCV using your video:) couple of quick questions: after all the screws are removed, does the pcv unit just pop off? Mine seems to be stuck even with everything removed. Also, did the sensor just pop right out after removing the screw? Thanks so much, your video is the only one on UA-cam that has a detailed walkthrough of this procedure.
Hello sir and thank you so much for putting this video out. I have been trying to do the same job on my 2011 XC 60 T6, but the cover seems to be too close to the firewall and some screws under the turbo pipe hard to access... Do you think there is any benefit in removing the top engine mount to tilt the engine forward slightly? Would there be any risk to damage the lower engine mounts (or anything else) in doing so?
My S60 T6 is at 142k miles with the original oil trap 💀 I ordered a new one just now. Do you know if I’ll be able to remove the windshield wipers and cowl instead of getting a wobbly?
I just replaced mine and now it sounds like a fart ever once in a while air coming out of the little hole on the cap of the membrane is that normal and the one I replaced was just clogged so I couldn’t hear it before ?
I would do thw whole assembly since it's like $65 and the diaphragm would be 35. Because in the assembly theres also a breather tube ball that gets stuck it's in the pipe that goes from the intake pipe.
Hi, the video you made is great. I just want to ask you if there is a need and sense to change the engine oil after I do your procedure. Because 1000 kilometers ago I replaced it with a new original Volvo.
@@BuiltForSpeed Thanks for your reply. I replaced the pcv valve / filter a week ago. The whole procedure went smoothly as you show in your video. Since then I have traveled 500 kilometers and today I decided to check the engine oil level but it had dropped by an "X" from the dipstick. And before that, the oil had never decreased. What could be the reason for this thing. What would you advise me.
Hello I live in Quebec and I want the 2015 v 60 r design. Is it a money pit. There is one woth 175k kilometers test drove it and fell in love with it. I love the practicality of the v60. Is it a reliable car. Thanks in advance.
I just replaced the valve only, and it seemed to work perfectly, but the car just stalled. Prior to changing it, my PCV was broken, and had a tear in it. Should I do some sort of reset? How would I do this. Some people were saying to disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and touch the two terminals from the car together. Would you recommend this?
Theres the valve/diagram and theres also a little ball where the hose hooks up that can also get stuck. The car should not stall if you fixed the issue. Resetting the codes/car most likely will not take care of the stall issue. You can disconnect both battery cables and touch them together that will reset most of your stuff. Give it a shot but i doubt that will fix your issue. There's something else going on if it stalls.
I have generally found that PPS (Pro Parts Sweden) parts are garbage and I've had their strut mounts and other random parts I can't remember fail on me within 10k miles. There is no way that PPS and Volvo have the same supplier unless something changed in the last couple of years. That was the primary reason FCP stopped carrying them.
Everyone keeps saying 100k miles but are they really talking kilometers? Surely there are more Canadians and Europeans than Americans and Brits on here that own these cars so I'm figuring everyone is speaking in imperial but working in metric so I thought I'd ask to be sure as this is a common linguistic issue I find with youtube vids with commentary from all over the world. Thanks, thinking of doing this on my v60 2015' t6 rdesign with 115km. Thanks for the nifty video.
My 2015 v60 t6 3.0l has an up and down idle, but when I pull the oil dipstick out it smooths right out. It's only has 27k miles. Could this be the issue?
Yeah it is. Its alot better design. The 2.5t p3 pcv is where the oil filter goes they have factory defect i believe and it cause bunch of oil leaks. I came across one as well.
No disrespect but liqui molly is not better then ultra platinum penzoil red line or ams oil , these are the oils that always come on top in every oil test I’ve seen. Molly is not even in the top 5
Impressed with his explaining. Must be a teacher
Great job on the finer details of the replacement...quality lighting and videoing. Thanks for your efforts.
Awesome video. Just bought a 2012 S60 RDesign with 135,000 miles. Runs like new but definitely doing this just as a precaution.
And make sure your ignition coils were replaced because after 100k they tend to go bad and make car run like crap.
I just replaced the pcv diaphragm on my 2015 R design for 35 $ from Dorman. I'm only at 70,000 miles, but have been running a stage 2 setup for 25,000 miles. Not sure if all the extra boost makes the diaphragm fail sooner or not. It's funny whenever I work on my car you put out a video a couple of weeks later on what I just did, and from what I can tell we live reasonably close. I'm down in Canby, keep up the videos.
Yea this whole think was like $65. The diaphragm goes bad and the ball that in the assembly gets stuck that in the tube that goes from the intake pipe into the oil trap assembly.
Mine just went bad too. I noticed the Dorman replacement. Can you simply buy that little part and avoid having to replace the entire box? And how tricky was the install? Thanks!
I just replaced pcv diaphragm our xc60 t6 at just under 70k miles. But it’s 10 years old so not surprised. I think it cost me $30 for the diaphragm kit. Simple fix. Didn’t need to replace the whole trap.
Good job , keep up the good work 👍
Just got myself a s40 2.4 and did the glove test and found that it wasn't sucking the glove in. So it's going back as soon as the xmas holidays are over.
It's a £300-£400 job here in the 🇬🇧
Putting the PCV under the manifold was a bad design.
Great video by the way.
starts at 2:32
im at 100k and it started making a weird noise, i thought for the longest time its a belt or pulley because its very similar sound. gonna be replacing soon.
I have never changed it and now have 250,000km. should I change it as quickly as possible? When you step on the gas you hear something like it's taking in the wrong air, but it could also be from the turbo...
great video as always.
Looks pretty good thanks
Wouldn't changing just the PCV rubber have the same effect rather than changing the whole plastic thing?
Thank you very much for the video. Can supply the torque setting for the bolts for the oil trap. Many thanks!
Just get them stug tight. The torque spec i believe is like 13ft lbs.
@@BuiltForSpeed Thanks!
I am going to replace thetv to my 2011, xc60 t6. The question is: the rear piece manifold tube seats on top of left side of pcv. you able to raise the rear manifold tube so you could reach the screw under the tube. In order to do that, did you only need to loss the small pipe and the front to the tube? I see the tube is tied deep behind the pcv and very hard to reach.
Thanks for another informative video. I'm currently working on replacing this on my 2012 rdesign. I ran into a couple of snags and would appreciate your expertise:
a. Did pry off the old hose clamp with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one?
b. To access/remove the guide screws, do you need to bend back the firewall cover (seems very snug in there)?
c. How do you go about removing the tcv solenoid?
Thanks again, your videos are a lifesaver.
Yes pryed it off with screw driver and put regular clamp on.
And no i just felt it out wigh my hand and used wobbly socket.
And tcv just slides off i believe. I think i mentioned it in the video.
@@BuiltForSpeed just got around to replacing the PCV using your video:) couple of quick questions: after all the screws are removed, does the pcv unit just pop off? Mine seems to be stuck even with everything removed. Also, did the sensor just pop right out after removing the screw? Thanks so much, your video is the only one on UA-cam that has a detailed walkthrough of this procedure.
Once you disconnect everything and take all screws out yes it should you may need to give it a tap but yea. Just make sure you get all screws out.
5,00 it,s called a membrane
Hello sir and thank you so much for putting this video out. I have been trying to do the same job on my 2011 XC 60 T6, but the cover seems to be too close to the firewall and some screws under the turbo pipe hard to access...
Do you think there is any benefit in removing the top engine mount to tilt the engine forward slightly?
Would there be any risk to damage the lower engine mounts (or anything else) in doing so?
I would remove the fake firewall piece instead
It is removable? Didn’t realize. I’ll have to check and try!
Thanks
Yeah it is removable
Mod the oil trap box with a pressure relief valve so it can't go over normal pressures .... venting to air, beats blowing seals or worse ...
can you elaborate on that a little more? info on this subject? any diy?
Can you install oil Catch cans on these cars if so how. I can’t find any information at ALL
My S60 T6 is at 142k miles with the original oil trap 💀 I ordered a new one just now.
Do you know if I’ll be able to remove the windshield wipers and cowl instead of getting a wobbly?
I believe so yes.
@@BuiltForSpeed Then again that sounds like more work than getting a wobbly. I think I’ll just do that instead
I just replaced mine and now it sounds like a fart ever once in a while air coming out of the little hole on the cap of the membrane is that normal and the one I replaced was just clogged so I couldn’t hear it before ?
Did you ever figure out what exactly was the reason for this? Just replaced mine and it’s doing the same thing.
110k, uh, gonna go order one of these right now.
yea i would definetly replace it if you are near 100k
Would you recommend replacing the entire assembly, or would replacing just the diaphragm be just as good?
I would do thw whole assembly since it's like $65 and the diaphragm would be 35. Because in the assembly theres also a breather tube ball that gets stuck it's in the pipe that goes from the intake pipe.
Hi, the video you made is great. I just want to ask you if there is a need and sense to change the engine oil after I do your procedure. Because 1000 kilometers ago I replaced it with a new original Volvo.
No after you do this theres no need to change oil
@@BuiltForSpeed Thanks for your reply. I replaced the pcv valve / filter a week ago. The whole procedure went smoothly as you show in your video. Since then I have traveled 500 kilometers and today I decided to check the engine oil level but it had dropped by an "X" from the dipstick. And before that, the oil had never decreased. What could be the reason for this thing. What would you advise me.
They keep saying it need changing, changed now 2nd time ?
Hello I live in Quebec and I want the 2015 v 60 r design. Is it a money pit. There is one woth 175k kilometers test drove it and fell in love with it. I love the practicality of the v60. Is it a reliable car. Thanks in advance.
The 3.0l t6 yes if you maintain it they are reliable.
@@BuiltForSpeed Thank you for the response
How to replace just the diaphram? Do i need to remove everything what u did pls make a video how to relace the diaphram
I replace the whole think the the diaphram cap just pops off and you change it.
I just replaced the valve only, and it seemed to work perfectly, but the car just stalled. Prior to changing it, my PCV was broken, and had a tear in it. Should I do some sort of reset? How would I do this. Some people were saying to disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and touch the two terminals from the car together. Would you recommend this?
Theres the valve/diagram and theres also a little ball where the hose hooks up that can also get stuck. The car should not stall if you fixed the issue. Resetting the codes/car most likely will not take care of the stall issue. You can disconnect both battery cables and touch them together that will reset most of your stuff. Give it a shot but i doubt that will fix your issue. There's something else going on if it stalls.
@@BuiltForSpeed As always, thank you for the help. Yeah, I don't think that will do much either, but it's easy enough, so it's worth the shot.
Ty
Hello, you didn't show how to remove the small hose that goes to the air box. Is it zip tied on?
No that hose has one time use clamp i believe you just pry it off
I have generally found that PPS (Pro Parts Sweden) parts are garbage and I've had their strut mounts and other random parts I can't remember fail on me within 10k miles. There is no way that PPS and Volvo have the same supplier unless something changed in the last couple of years. That was the primary reason FCP stopped carrying them.
This part is not very complicated to make and it looks identical to volvo oem one. Even the design and drawings are the same.
@@BuiltForSpeed Hope it lasts! FWIW a rear wiper they sent for my XC90 lasted 2 years before I sold it.
Does the PCV/Oil Trap thing do the same job as the oil catch can? Also do these engines even need one?
Yes it's same as the oil catch can yes. And it also acts as a pcv system as well so you have to service it.
@@BuiltForSpeed Funny how i asked this about a year ago and ji ust noticed my PCV leaking oil today at 60k miles lol.
@@adibahasan8881 you sure it's that? and not the vacuum pump that i made video about?
Everyone keeps saying 100k miles but are they really talking kilometers? Surely there are more Canadians and Europeans than Americans and Brits on here that own these cars so I'm figuring everyone is speaking in imperial but working in metric so I thought I'd ask to be sure as this is a common linguistic issue I find with youtube vids with commentary from all over the world. Thanks, thinking of doing this on my v60 2015' t6 rdesign with 115km. Thanks for the nifty video.
No I'm definitely talking about 100k miles not km.
My 2015 v60 t6 3.0l has an up and down idle, but when I pull the oil dipstick out it smooths right out. It's only has 27k miles. Could this be the issue?
Yes it could definitely be it.
Can this cause a po507?
That idle control valve issue code or you have vacuum leak.
0:25
That’s a lot different than the 2.5 t5... lol.
Yeah it is. Its alot better design. The 2.5t p3 pcv is where the oil filter goes they have factory defect i believe and it cause bunch of oil leaks. I came across one as well.
@@BuiltForSpeed yeah. It is. Mine doesn’t leak actually, and I wish mine didn’t have the bad piston rings. But good video!
No disrespect but liqui molly is not better then ultra platinum penzoil red line or ams oil , these are the oils that always come on top in every oil test I’ve seen. Molly is not even in the top 5
I don't want argue on this subject but Liqui moly won the best oil 8years in a row.
my s80 is smoking from oil cap, should this be replaced to fix this problem?
This definitely would be the first thing i would do if you haven't done it yet.
@@BuiltForSpeed I replaced about two years ago, thought it should be good but worth the shot i suppose