CAN YOU DRAG BACK ACROSS YOUR SLAG WITH 7018?
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2024
- let's test the theory on burning 7018 and dragging across your slag while you’re welding. Can you do it and make a clean weld? I did this in an old video and got a lot of comments that I would get trash by doing that. I was taught this same thing so let’s do a test on some plate in the shop.
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As long as you don't let the weldment cool and your running hot enough you can absolutely make passes over slag with out inclusion. In fact we boilermaker have technique when welding high pressure tube called slag welding where the weld puddle is continuously passed between two welders and the slag is only chipped at the end. And high pressure boiler tubes are always x-rayed before approval.
Same. We weld high pressure vessels using pulse and spray. When doing fills we usually run about 2-3 passes if it's 3"+ schedule 80-160. They are hydro tested and x-rayed and pass. Thank God
Great info man
I agree with this also... You don't usually want to arc into a cold slag shell because it really blasts apart the hardened slag and you will have porosity I've noticed that the longer you allow the slag to stay on the bead the more work you do to chip it off. But driving an arc into warm slag is just a keep on going. I've met a lot of old timers who NEVER removed slag on structural... Now I have had some nice welds through hardened slag when welding with electrode negative polarity... It makes a mess from all the splatter but it is a strong bead. I was taught to remove the slag but sometimes when nobody is looking ill just keep welding.
I just did buddy welding on a panel for the first time tonight. Thought I got the slag off b4 my partner made it around. I picked him up and remelted my slag. I'll know Monday if I have a few bad shots
Never thought of that😂😂 I bet it works, as with 7018 and I guess with any rod its basically just keep the buddle going and intact and "wet". I guess the no going over is taught when starting as its perhaps easier to get going that way and perhaps the most up and comers are gonna rod weld some hand railing at the mall or something.
I dunno, thats buddle sharing sounds interesting idea though😂 I cant get over thinkin where to try it😂
I love how authentic this is. He literally stuck the rod after welding 1 inch and didn’t edit it out.
7018 gives a whole new meaning to "stick" welding. LOL !
@@workonitm8 beat me to it!
Yeah but we all stick to rod end now and again. Especially when using 3/32... I find that the thicker the rod the easier it is to start without dragging. Sticking rods is a normal thing. You just can't have that happen on a high pressure joint.
It is nice to see someone that is truly CONFIDENT in their work as this gentleman is. Most people would just be afraid to show this minor mistake thinking it would ruin their PERCIVED reputation of themselves. That old saying...... "Honesty is the best policy" really is true. He will get much more respect by showing his little goof up than he would trying to hide it and getting caught, THAT is for sure! XD
As a 68 yr old guy, who has done a LOT of STICK welding, I wasn't expecting a great outcome. Thanks for sharing Austin. God Bless you and family.
Welding 30 years under my welding belt buckle, and I still enjoy the welding world providing for my family.
Hey Ross I was also taught for 7018 not to fill a gap with because of controlling the arc. But you and I both know things change in the field. Thank you for the example you are setting for the greenhorns
when i was taught 7018 , we backed on end welds to level the void , never sean whip an pause 7018 , i guess it depends on your code . fantastic vid , thanks . keep em coming
I've had to make a few passes like this and slightly worried about slag inclusion with 1/8 7018. I had watched Jody from tips n tricks and I heard him mention as long as the weld isn't cooled enough that it's possible. So I was able to do it more often with more confidence. Because of this I was actually able to see the slag boil away and build with the new pass-over slag. Great video. Thank God for you and God bless you and your family.
Not only can you model this man's welding you can model this man's character and be better for it.
Great video as always Austin, keeping it Real.
I ain't no code welder. One thing I have learned though is after a while, you can see the slag float up out of the puddle.
I watch blokes at work weld up crusher jaws on rock crushers that have ALL KINDS of stuff pounded into their surfaces and rust galore. Same goes, you can see the rock and dirt float up out of the weld.
They might want you to do it a certain way at tech. That's because it's the way that's going to give you the highest probability of an up to code weld.
You can still F it up though.
Nothing beats practice and experience, and there's always more than one way to skin a cat.
Heat and speed are key elements to get a clean weld. I have learned that AC stick 6011 makes stronger beautiful welds when going in circles instead of the normal ugly back and forth. 7018 has always been straight line fine for me but can see how enough heat and keep the speed minimal will make a clean weld like in this video. Great video as always!
Thanks! Thank you for watching!
Q
Caterpillar Equipment recommends 7018.We Field Mechanics weld on dirty metal.I have Weldor pipe weldor brothers and cousins who weld on Virgin pipe.They can't weld through grease and dirty metal.7018 is best for welding dirty metal.
I had pipe welders quit in 8 hours.
man, your videos have improved the quality and content your teaching skills are really shinning thank for sharing
Hey “A” man, like the content. Some awesome destructive testing. Hood down, lights on.
Thanks for sharing with us Austin, good way to check how you weld on your own farm. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.
Very interesting video. A machine shop I worked in I would pad weld shafts with 7018 and never chipped or brushed the welds because the owner said so. The Machinists turned them down to journal size and only had one weld with an inclusion in it. Amps, speed, tight arc and good eyes.
I've done same,with joint pins of excavators and front loaders,but did because i wanted so,to keep the surface warm for the next layer of weld,7018 is a hard to beat rod...even drenched in grease and heavy rust around,that mighty rod will burn trough,all you need is a sharp steady hand for the pace up on high amps and good eyes,all you need is know what you want to see/track,keep that rod burning bro !
Best regards from Romania
@@ScarryMarian2012 yes sir!! We mainly ran 70,80 and11018 and 7024s for flat work. They are the Cadillac of welding rods. Stay safe over there my rod burning brother.
Great content. At 66 yrs old as a welder I have never been a box and not going to start now. Your proof is in the footage. Thank you young man, excellent
Very well said sir. I was trained by a navy/railroad engineer. He was my grandfather and he always told me. It's about how the you feel about your welds as you do them.
Thanks. And thank you for watching!
That ark is so smooth compared to my old Lincoln ac/DC tombstone. Lol. Nice video and love the content
Nice! Gravity is working for you here. The slag floats on the melt since it's about 1/3 the weight or density. The worst would probably be overhead but I would think anything non-flat risks inclusions.
You can absolutely make passes over the top of each other with 7018 doing water well casing they have beveled edges like your example we do one pass down middle one on top one on bottom and I used horseshoe pattern and a push/drag method and when going around the vertical casing you’re joining welds all the time. I never had a weld break and when getting drillers license they make you do a weld and it’s sonic checked.
another thing i was tought if you were quick enough , you could change reds an strike off as long as there was a glow in your turmination
I’ve come to the “inclusion”, I mean conclusion that most people that criticize or tell you something isn’t allowed, are not really doing much other than telling you what they learned from someone else’s video. Most of them are only hand burning skin rod, and penetrating nothing.
Try another project.Weld two parts together with peices have moly grease on it.Field work is keep down time to minimum. We don't have all day to clean.I respect you,I just come from different angle. Yup,we burn 7018 through grease ,oil and diesel fuel.We weld uphill on everything not flat or overhead.
Hope you aren't welding anything too important
if it is that dirty and you aint clean it just use 6011
We extract broken bolts by welding over slag.Bolt broken 5 inches in a hole.Stick a pipe in there and stick the rid in there and go by feel and hearing.Put pipe wrench on pipe and ease out bolt Kinda welding we do as Heavy Equipment Mechanics.All 7018.
done that plenty of times on broken bolts on exhaust side of diesel engines,and the slag is a very welcomed presence there due thread protection when red cherry hot and prevent bolt/weld fusion to the block thread,now is a booring operation for me xD
I took a few tests in the early 80s and we couldn’t use a grinder. They washed the weld with a torch and it would definitely tell the tale
I'm a total hobbyst when it comes to welding. Why is a grinder not allowed?
@@jackskalski3699 some test procedures don’t allow you to grind your stops and starts, or didn’t then anyway. They like to see those starts to know how you deal with perosity
Found this video while looking for an answer to this question. Your results seem to confirm what I've been finding. Past couple days I've been facewelding a 5" cube of steel onto a bigger block. It's tacked to the bigger block with about a 3/8" gap, and I've been filling the gap with weld from the center out in every direction with 1/8" 7018. Burning it at ~130amps and preheated the steel blocks with a big torch.
The gap I'm filling is so deep and narrow, I can't always get 100% of the slag out after a pass. But I've noticed that if I slow down in that spot on a subsequent pass and sort of dig the tip of my rod down into it, my puddle will liquefy the stuck slag from the last pass and it will get floated up and out with the new slag. My buddy and I were calling it "flooding out the slag".
Haven't done a cut test, but it seems to be working, because after the 2nd pass there will be much more slag coming off that area. Ultimately what I'm working on is noncritical so it ain't a make or break situation either way.
some of the best arc footage I have seen in a long time.....especially the oxy/fuel.....
.I will definitely have to try this welding technique, and do a saw cut and polish and etch.....
.I think the mistake others make is not start the arc far away and getting some heat on the slag
to melt it completely and then ending up with slag entrapment.......
this was very educational to this old weldor.......
really appreciate all the work you put into this video Austin........
Curious as to what camera setup you are using thee days.......
your all around camera work is awesome as usual.....
Cheers, Paul Brown
I just use my iPhone 12
@@arosswelding thank you, the quality is amazing.......and so is your framing......well done as always...
Awesome! It's nice to see someone willing to let others know what "experience" can teach someone. Examples like this may not be "proper" or "approved" in every or, ANY instance but, knowing tricks like this may help someone in an "emergency" situation of some sort. I really can't tolerate a so called expert telling me something CAN NOT be done because, "it's against the rules". Sometimes you just don't have the right stuff to do things by the book. Especially when you have just spent 3 hours transporting your tools into a gorge where you would need a giant helicopter to lift the vehicle or machine you are working on out to get it to a proper repair site. Sometimes you have NO CHOICE but to bend the rules or even, outright break them to get a job done. Thank you Sir and, carry on! YOU are just one of the good folks keeping this world working. These sort of things are good to know!
I Berly started welding school and we started doing this I finished the school year with top welder in class thanks to ur videos
I have been watching and enjoying your videos for a while. Good content. Keep them coming.
Thank you for watching!
That moment @ 3:17 when we all remember why it's called "stick" rod 🤣 Great video man, really like your channel 👍
I used to work for a company and we had steel castings that would have sand holes in the. We would take a carbide ball burr and grind out the sand pocket in the casting. Sometimes you would have an opening 2" in dia and 2" deep,, we would crank up the heat and bury 7018 rods in the bottom and keep welding over the slag.. till the pocket was closed up... the weld was perfect... then it was inspected with mag flux and die pen... worked great...You're doing a good Job Austin.. have you hung up pipeline work?
That looks better than my car ... what these people even talking about .... but in seriousness, although I admit I don't know the science, and I happen to have come here looking for the answer to this exact question while I'm welding an area that's hard to clean out since I cant really fit a brush or grinder wheel. What I've sort of been led to believe by my own observation, and your video lets me feel more confident so thank you, it seems slag forms after the arc is removed in a chemical reaction with the gases in the atmosphere and flux from the rods while its glowing red especially and while it cools down. For example, if you brush or chip while its red glowing nothing seems top come off and it may even ruin the weld, but then slag will appear after the glowing red disappears... Thanks for your videos dude
We built water and wastewater equipment, and we had the luxury of 90% of the welds being flat welds. The equipment was hot-dipped galvanized so everything was sealed welds. I would lightly hold the rod at a 45 and let the weld push the rod. I don't know if this was acceptable but sure made some pretty welds.
*sees the finish weld* it's so beautiful
I'd like to make beads that good
I was just a lowly maintenance welder doing repairs on factory equipment but I know you can weld continuously with minimal slag removal and I personally will remove slag in horizontal welds but vertical I’ve never worried too much about slag removal. And 7018 is pretty much the standard in my welding work but it’s still a low hydrogen rod with low penetration so if want more penetration I’m going to start with the 6010/ 6011 rods. Most of the stuff I weld can’t be super cleaned. It’s usually on breakdowns and paint and oils may not be able to be completely removed. With that said I do prefer to remove slag between passes. But maintenance repair type welding doesn’t get X-Ray’d. You usually just have everyone else running around kicking dirt on your stuff🤣. I work with boilermakers here too and they’re the same as Ross. But welding stainless is a whole other conversation. Stainless has to be clean clean clean…
A dude where I work welds 7018 downhill root but runs hot af then cleans it then caps it going uphill all structural and never failed any field UT or XRay blew my mind if it works it works
Love the channel dude. Rad video. Iam a NDT who welds for funzies. So weld test and grinders. That depends on the test and the company you are testing for. Just as an example. The AWS D1.1 structural steel code does not say you can not use a grinder in the test. So grinders are fair game. But AWS D1.5 does say that you can not use a grinder or any power tools to change the weld profile. So you can not there. So it all depends of the code for the test and the company. Rad video dude!
I appreciate you watching!
👍👍👍 I wonder how that would look in a XRay of that joint, after burning back over the slag? I am not sure but there might just be problems or week areas that would cause cracks down the road. But yes your right on point to just Try other way's of doing work.I always believe that if you can find a new way of doing things, that it just might just be a good way to finish a job. 👍
Awesome footage. Looked pretty clean to me. There are contributing factors to this though. One as you say experience and a practised hand. If I wandered back and forth I doubt I would get as good a result. Two you also seemed to keep running at the hot end again with experience. If you had come down on your machine would it have still burnt the slag out. Good test and shows once more no substitute for practise and experience.
(1)Personally I can say yes it will burn the slag out on lower amps I have gone as low as 75 amps on scrap and still burned away the slag
(2) the trick is a very close arc and staying in the puddle you will feel like you are pushing against some resistance and in turn it will make you feel like you are moving slower
You can do it, it’ll re-melt the slag with no issue. Now do I prefer it? No, but there’s nothing wrong with it
3/32 land 3/32 space ? Looks like you are using arc blow (force )to move your slag. Weld as hot as you are able to ,and Slag has less chance of being trapped . When one thinks of welding it acts like water coming out of a garden hose . It is also color differentiation. and knowing what to look for . Austin knows how to make magic he is keeping ahead of the slag .
I'm old school, welding since '72. I couldn't go over slag, gotta get rid of it
Austin Ross I enjoy watching your videos I have always wondered how much trash would be left behind if someone were to strike up and run over already solidified maybe partially cooled slag ? Habe you ever done any testing on this I myself always wire wheel it off first I maybe even go overboard wirh it but I have always wondered if it would boil out to the top or stay in there or both ?
Great video, still now grinders allowed on DOT welding test. At least not allowed here in New York
The reason old radiogrsphers disallowed cleaning of the weld is the weld had to be properly performed where the slsg just peeled off.
If even the slightest slag was present, it would show up in the film.
Excellent experience... I guess it wouldn't translate well into the same approach but with 6013 («slag trapping» rod); have you tried it?
Maaaaan you skipped the best slag pull!!! First stringer on the cap that slag peeled up so perfect and fell right off. You gotta keep that one for the Slag Hall of Fame. Lol
Thanks for the lesson!
Very cool technique
Thanx for your time and sharing your experience. I noticed in this video that you’ve bent your electrode at the stinger. I’ve never seen this before. Any reason or purpose? Thanx. Alan
When people have said you can't weld over your slag, what exactly do they think we are doing when we weave our caps?
Speaking of your D 1.5 and no power tools, I wasn't allowed to use any for.mine here in VA either.
Hey peice rate tig welder here in tulsa and I catch hell for the way I fill the bevel on pipe as well but passing is passing and if you would have trapped slag it would have showed while welding and then we'd have seen it in the grain of the metal as you cut through it
I have been doing this a lot lately at my current job. Just don't tell nobody. Our fitters leave a lot to be desired.
Oh yeah,been field equipment mechanic since 1984.
I got called crazy for tying into my beads without chipping slag on X-rays. I go from 6-12 o clock until I chip it all at once.
The only way I chip before a tie in is if I had to walk away and let it cool down.
People think that what they were taught as a beginner to give them the best chance on their test coupon with their low skill is what they have to do forever. If you don't let your puddle fully develop there will be a slag inclusion so beginners are taught to chip. Some people are beginners forever.
I would love to see different welds like this bandsawed down the middle, milled flat and smooth, then acid etched to bring out contrast with any material inconsistency.
U just want to argue
@@chadmoyer1453 Not particularly, I just think it would be interesting to see.
Very interesting! But what is the profit to go back over the slack?
You could run the 7018 on electrode negative and go in a straight line along the open root, burns very similar to 7016
WIll work but is hard to control,because of low frequency of intrerruptions,indeed does what you said,but is hard to control,there is a very fine line in between speed of travel&s&a dam steady hand,because it tends to stick,and fight the reflex to pull away too much and avoid turn the arc off,very soliciting operation,but doable in the worst case scenario where there is no other better option.
@@ScarryMarian2012 I did a whole bunch of open root butt welds this way, for a test, passed qualification and got certificates. It's super easy to control, once you get the amperage right. You jam the electrode in the root, point it towards the pool and let the melting flux coating control the travel speed. It's as smooth as butter.
LOL I got all excited, saw a spot I thought was inclusion but after four of five passes it still hadn't gone away. Was a noseeum on my monitor screen. 🤣🤣
When you restart you always start your arc in front of where you join existing weld, so your depositing slag in your path already that you will be going over. It's my assumption, and I'm no welder, that even if you run over a cold weld still covered with slag, as long as you create a molten puddle, slag (both new and old) will come to the surface.
My humble opinion is that you can run 7018 over slag if the weld is fresh and hot as hell but it's still risky business. I'm talking like putting a fresh electrode in your stinger while your uphand weaving as fast as you can and strike that arc as fast as possible while the crater from your last weld is still cherry red. As far as you cutting into it with a torch to look for slag inclusions.... Well s$_t you should know better. The heat from your OAC will burn out any slag stuck in your weld.
Agreed
A proper nick break ?
I agree, the torch will blow it out but you would be able to hear and see it blow it out.
I build boats. pretty much 100% 7018, at least on anything that gets UT or x-ray. I've only ever blow one X-ray in my life and it was an overhead hull seam that I didn't grind the wagon tracks out of well enough. Now I dont just buff all the slag out, I grind down to sound metal between every pass and I run it HOT. 130 amps for 1/8" and 190 for 5/32".
when you said that you've been welding for 14 years it made me laugh, ive been in welding school for 14 days
Would cutting with a saw or grinder be better for revealing any porosity? Could the heat be melting away minor issues (other than the pop at the start)?
I'm enjoying your channel, thanks.
Austin you should try to do a vertical plate test down hill on 1" plate mig weld see if you can do it
If you run a hot machine and stay in your puddle when going back over you usually will not have any porosity but it does happen sometimes I always run a hot machine
I’ve been doing this quite I bit about a month ago I was welding 7018 and I used a weave pattern I notice it felt like I was pushing the liquid slag out of the way
Hey Ross it would also be beneficial if you could x-ray a weld.
Hey man great job ,, but have you ever welded heavy metal like one inch or above in wich high strength is a absolute must , you Chip an remove the Slag for insurance it will hold ,, an I'm not talking pipe line welding were a leak is a problem with these stages of different rods just plane one rod from start to finish
😮😮awesome video and why you making it look so easy lol 😝 practice makes good welds.. I’m just learning 7018 and enjoy my new hobby.. “ps.. thanks 4 the circle burner, it’s cherry”
Thanks! And they you for your support! I’m glad to here you like the circle burner!
Very educational video keep them coming ,
Love the videos man big inspiration!!
But Austin, cleaning slag gives that 25% duty cycle welder a rest. Do this test on 6010/6011.
Tbh I use to whip the 7018 when I first started welding and nobody had a problem with it till the other students noticed I legit got all the way to vertical before realizing I wasn’t suppose to whip 7018 lol
Mr. Ross are you using Lincoln Excalibur rods? I wouldn’t try to go back over with crappy rods or on weldments for a customer. I always enjoy your work. Thanks, Mike
Idk, even if I’m awake and ready I still don’t want slag down my shirt 😂
Maybe try that with 7014 ?? Should be interesting !
Sometimes you gotta go the extra mile to prove your confidence in your weld.
Your machine is very good on burning 7018 with super low amps.
11018 is what I tried in a rock crushing mine.Its too hard and cracks easily. Went back to 7018.
Interesting video still think I’ll knock slag off as much as possible as I busted a certification from slag once, but still I pretty cool video and interesting way to test a weld
a video made with care and quality
Love the videos Austin very educational and cool. The question I have is I was given some new 4" standard wall sch. 40 pipe that I want to use for fence post. Even though it's standard wall and not sch. 80 in your opinion do you think it should be ok?
Ya it should work for fence posts.
you solder very good. Cheers
What are the sparkups when your going through the original steel? Aren’t those inclusions or porosity? Not sure the right word there but it’s what I was expecting to see in the weld area if there was a bit of slag left
Awesome! Thanks for this video!
With weld gap shouldnt you be using 1/8 7018???
I dont want to be be a grinch, but I certified on 7018 no grinder. Verticle up. And through the years I discovered that with 7018 puddle control is your ticket to do all kinds of crazy welds.
I worked for Plumas Rock in Quincy California as a welder/fabricator/operator. Our firm had mobile rock crushing equipment Jaw Crushers,. Cone Crushers, Classifcation screens, conveyors and heavy equipment .... Dozers, loaders, graders, We built logging roads in the north sierras of California. I got my cherry popped as a welder on that job. And will never regret a single moment of that experience 😊👍
Always watch the puddle, as long as the puddle is sound the weld will be sound !
I do it all the time welding pipe, but not with small rod 3/16 and 1/4 only. 250-325 amps
I’m in OKC if you ever offered a evening clinic or anything for beginners I’d be interested.
Do 1 "Pushing" the rod flat & overhead
Notcied it as your were buffing the cap, why did you flip the wire wheel around and hit the joint again after doing so?
for open root you could change to electrode negative.... get better root in
Stuck electrode @3:18, that's $10 says Bob M.
When I took my D1.1 we weren’t allowed to use grinders either
Dare you to try that with 6013 next.. bet you'll have wagon track galore
How many rods did you use on that weld?
lookin healthy man!
What about the possibility of 7018 down hill?
By doing that does it make the weld stronger?