Myth: The Ruler Trick Negates Flattening and Works on a Strop
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- I examine every detail of David Charlesworth's excellent video covering his Ruler Trick method for polishing the back of a plane iron.
• The Ruler Trick
Many have described the ruler trick as a method to avoid flattening the back of a plane iron. I disagree, as described my Mr. Charlesworth, it is a method to avoid polishing large portions of the iron back. In my opinion, the back must already be reasonably flat for the method to work.
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The answer to your complaint about Cosman's technique on a severely cupped blade is that Cosman first of all does prescribe a more coarse stone for flattening, and secondly that if a blade were that bad he would recommend you return it.
Jeff, I didn't intend to complain about Rob Cosman's technique. I think there are a lot of his techniques that won't work for me as a hobbyist. I simply don't have his skill and experience.
I totally agree. At this point in my life and I going to pay the 50 bucks or so for a flat iron. I have 2 recent additions form Veritas that I'm quite happy with. I'm no longer interested in taco-shaped blades.
I think there are a number of successful techniques that work for different reasons for different people. Here is an old blog post with a SUPER interesting comments thread including contributions from Mr. Charlesworth and Ron Hock. You might be interested in the reading the debate between Konrad Saur and David Charlesworth. I don't think there is any final answers but it is really fun reading.
www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/the-ruler-trick.html
I always like to see David Charlesworth and his clever methods given the analysis, respect, and validation they deserve. And from a new generation to boot. Carry on!
Nice video, impecable reasoning. Cosman does indeed flatten the iron, or at least the tip, before polishing with the ruler trick. I do the same both for plane irons and spokeshave irons: first flattening, the tip or more, and then the ruler trick on the tip. It's indeed pointless to go directly to the ruler trick before at least examining the iron flatness near the tip.
Great demonstration Mr.. Very important infos I would like have seen years ago 😂. It can be really hard to learn, if you just see videos where sharpening always goes a perfect way. Thanks a lot
Fantastic video thank you. If there are any flaws in your logic they are not obvious, so I'm definitely convinced by your arguments!
Much appreciated!
The scaled up version with the wood really shows off the cupping issue! 👍👍
Thanks Grant, yeah I actually thought about that for a few months, how to visually show that sort of geometry.
I disagree. It greatly exaggerates the issue and does nothing to back the claim that not having to flatten the entire back is a myth.
To your point, there are some very learned You Tube creators that make videos that are very good but so packed with detail that I have to view them many times. Also, as you did, I take notes. You just made a UA-cam video on how to watch a UA-cam video! I love it.
Well said!
Geometry, trigonometry and applied physics… Tom, you’ll be proud of me….
I nerded my way through my first cuppa, without an attention lapse!
Thanks bud, your point is sound. I totally agree.
Thanks Dave. Btw, I am finally getting around to that belt sander grinder setup using a drawer pull we talked about months ago.
@@woodshopnerdery I’ll be watching for it!
Might be good to mention that David Charlesworth died last May when interacting with his video. You're correct that it's a polishing step though, since the Lie-Nielsen (pronounced "Lee Neelson") blades he is using don't get sold unless they're flat David simply never had to bother anymore. For less premium plane irons that require flattening, you still don't need to flatter the entire back however. Per Rob Cosman, David's student and friend, dropping down to approx 1,000grit stone for an initial flattening before proceeding to a polishing stone is sufficient unless the plane iron is so out of whack that it should be returned.
This is a pretty good young channel and I'm excited to see where you go from here with your videos!
How sad to learn of Mr. Charlesworth’s passing. Thanks for letting me know.
BTW - By the way thanks for the compliments. And yes I do flub the enunciation of quite a few words, especially on camera. Yikes!
Good video, Tom
Thanks Chris!
Great share🎉❤
Thanks!
I posted a followup video on my Power Pro I would like you to watch and provide comments. Note my comment after I posted the video. I think I discoveresd a major fault with my Power Pro. Thank you, Ted
Yes, I watched it and commented probably at the same time you were writing your comment. Take a look at the comments John Rice made. He is dead on. You may have other problems, but it is critical to address the idler shaft issue first.
The idler shaft is held in place with an eccentric bushing that can be turned to apply tension to the belt. This bushing is gripped in the headstock casting with a bolt and nut. You will need to push the idler bearing and eccentric bushing back into place, rotate the eccentric bushing to apply belt tension, then secure them with the bolt. Do NOT over tighten as you can crack you headstock casting. That will be a major pain to repair.
John Rice mentioned Jacob Anderson. Here are two videos that might help you. You might be able to repair this yourself depending on comfort level.
ua-cam.com/video/J2RSrFpr5Sk/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/kl1W2zhCpeY/v-deo.html
It’s amazing what a night sleep can do. Came out this morning. Looked at it with fresh eyes and saw exactly what you were talking about. Losing the nuts casting to relieve the idler bearing took a big flat head screwdriver in the back and just gently pushed it out so it was flush with the front of the housing.
So the upper belt is where it belongs but the lower belt has a slight slant to it not much so I’m now wondering if maybe I don’t need to let the idler go back just a little bit inside of the housing.?
I was trying to make it too complicated.
Really was an easy fix so I’ll wait for your response. I hope I have it right.
Can’t thank you enough. Ted
@@choochoo3985 Good, let's hope you're close. If it were me I would follow Scott Markwood's (@mygrowthrings) reply to one of John Rice's comments. He said the bearing portion of the idler shaft and the eccentric bushing should be flush.
Once it is secured back in place you can then trouble shoot belt alignment and tensioning. The 2 Jacob Anderson videos I linked to before should tell you a lot about that part too.
@@woodshopnerdery I did watch the video and after after I sent that I thought you know, the two belts are not the same tension, so I went ahead and released the eccentric cam, and it just basically moved itself to equalize the tension on the two belts. I don’t know if that’s how it’s supposed to happen but I am happy with the fact that it did.
You guys are great. I hope others that watch the video get a look at your name and start watching your videos because they’re incredibly informative and you know that Shop Smith is a great tool.
Got too much company right now got up early this morning came out the leader. I will go ahead and put the ball back on and see if that resolved any of that vibration problem. Thanks again.
@@woodshopnerdery I did and it worked great. This is a real issue that many may not understand, so I am posting another video on this subject to get others aware of the potential problem and resolution.
V good, can you now do a vid with how “his”chip breaker would interact with bevel down plane with a reverse back bevel of 10•degrees(on the upper face). Ie; a York blade angle of 55•degree on a traditional 45•degree frog.
(Ref. The trick of grinding the top of a bevel down plane blade tip to a 10•degree angle to create the York pitch)
📐I believe “his” technique for the chip breaker preparation would not work with Yorker blade in this style.
!You will also note the 1 to 60 trigonometry calc. =1degree, he quoted is not accurate & you might not want to fly with any pilots who use this rule!!! 😂😂😂