I like a wheelset upgrade. No matter the bike, if your wheelset sucks, you'll love a new, better one! I always grab new grips, a personalized colour for myself. My own pedals. Sometimes a stem and bar. Outside of the wheels. The front shock. Top end stuff that minimizes the chatter and smooths it all out, really float my boat. And help my old ass ride longer!
@@brennan43drift heck yeah 👍 I plan on testing the Hunt Trail Wide V2 wheels on this since they’re a good budget option and much better than the stock entity wheels.
@JaredHoff I went with carbon We Are One , Union wheels with Industry 9 hubs. No broken a spokes or truing required since I've had them. Just service the free hub every couple of months and clean the bearings when needed . Love them!
@@dainperrault585 glad to have helped. Next, I think I’m going to look at tires and wheels. Thinking about testing new tires vs new wheels to see which one makes the biggest difference.
@ would love to see that. Especially a set of new tires, I know everyone’s trails are different, but maybe a lighter weight tire that still has great performance. And affordable wheels after that to see the effects
Grips, pedals, bars and maybe a stem and dropper lever. No Trail One cockpit? Really like the PNW pedals and dropper lever. I only run Oury Pro lockon grips.
@@bellarogers7202 I want to throw Trail One bars and stem on so bad, but trying to do small upgrades to keep it more budget friendly. Eventually I’ll throw on a T1 stem, bars etc.
PNW Loam grips #1. Portland Designs foam lock on grips #2--Ya, PNW as a manufacturer should have color matching in their products across their offering--SDG BelAir saddle is a good choice, I've had no problems with various Amazon valve stems as well....
I own the blue PNW grips also. Bought them in XL. I initially wasn't sure about which size to get, until I thought about my latex glove size, which is XL. Perfect fit! Lol
For grips, I like Lizard Skin grips. Two, based on personal experience, I much prefer having the spoke protector on vs. removing it. Why? Even if your limit screws are properly set, you can still hit a nasty bump that'll induce chain slap, and your chain will pop right off the cogset. Or, as happened to me on my vintage road bike (downtube shifters, BTW), you can downshift quickly and aggressively; I did that approaching an incline. This can cause your chain to miss the lower cog's teeth, and your chain goes between the cog and the spokes. Fortunately in my case, the spokes were only scratched; the damage was cosmetic. After that, I made sure that my whole fleet has spoke protectors; otherwise, you could be looking at a wheel rebuild.
@@markymarknj you make a good point for that scenario. I only ever pedal in the biggest cog when I’m climbing slowly up a steep mountain so I’ve never experienced that.
@@JaredHoff my vintage road bikes have downtube shifters so I can gain or dump a bunch of gears at once. I'd tried to build and maintain speed and momentum while approaching this incline, then dump a bunch of gears quickly so I could maintain what was left of my momentum. I was pedaling hard and fast, so the chain didn't quite catch the teeth of the low cog. If I'm on my MTB when I have to dump a bunch of gears, I just go from the middle ring to the granny ring; I just go to a lower range. I can also do that on my vintage Cannondale road bike too, which has 3x setup on it. However, my other vintage road bike, my Marukin, only has a 2x on it, and I was already on the low ring; my only choice was to go to the big cog ASAP.
@@jasonstephens2923 Thanks! I have a friend who wanted the T9 so I sold it to him. I really wanted to do some budget bike vids which is why I got the T7. Plus I love the color
@@silvergret I have a set of Hunt Trail wheels that cost about $500. The idea I have for an upcoming video is to find a $500 fork, then do a wheel versus fork upgrade to see which one makes the biggest difference.
That sounds like an awesome video. I personally reckon the answer is wheels 4 sure though. Really good wheels can be gotten for alot less than really good forks. And wheels don't only have their own compliance and weight/ rolling resistance properties but reduced wheel weight also improves suspension performance.
@@lilhard2963 Trading bikes is something I’ve never dealt with. The current bike market has low resale prices which makes it difficult. But hopefully 🤞 you’ll be able to do that.
Those are true upgrades. Seat, grips, and pedals are the most important parts of riders experience with a bike, because that's where the body contacts the bike. Tubeless conversions increase grip and decrease rolling resistance and rotating mass. You seem like you should know better than to not call them upgrades.
@@hoobash agree that tires make a huge difference. I think these tires would work good for a front tire if I threw a faster rolling rear tire on there.
@@DesmondKarani I know mountain bikes are expensive. But for a full suspension trail bike that’s the budget. You can get one cheaper but it won’t be as capable. In fact, you prob need to spend closer to $2,000 to get something that requires no upgrades and even then you’ll need to buy pedals.
@JaredHoff Thanks for the response. I've been binging your content and I saw that you also upgraded the $2,300 Siskiu T9. Is there a specific bike you've owned and not upgraded anything (necessary upgrade) 🤔 I was really hoping something like T9 would be a complete bike.
@ The T9 doesn’t require upgrades to ride and have fun, but there are always little tweaks you can do to make a bike “perfect” for you. That’s why I got the T7. I wanted to make a more “budget” friendly version of the T9. But even the T7 isn’t cheap
I like a wheelset upgrade. No matter the bike, if your wheelset sucks, you'll love a new, better one!
I always grab new grips, a personalized colour for myself. My own pedals. Sometimes a stem and bar.
Outside of the wheels. The front shock. Top end stuff that minimizes the chatter and smooths it all out, really float my boat. And help my old ass ride longer!
@@jerryspeedbumps512 well said 👍
Fork*
@@CJGrand1 I’m looking for a budget option and the red Z1 or Z2 could be it 🤔
@JaredHoff good call on those!
Perfect & Quick upgrades.
Exactly what i do every time I get a new bike!
Great Video.
@@shanekeeton thanks 👍
Wheel set was a game changer for me. Wish i had of done that before everything else.
@@brennan43drift heck yeah 👍 I plan on testing the Hunt Trail Wide V2 wheels on this since they’re a good budget option and much better than the stock entity wheels.
@JaredHoff I went with carbon We Are One , Union wheels with Industry 9 hubs. No broken a spokes or truing required since I've had them. Just service the free hub every couple of months and clean the bearings when needed . Love them!
@ heck yeah 👍
Great video! Mine just came in today! Cant wait to get out there!
@@TheManHere1 🤘🤘🤘 stoked for you!
Great stuff, Im definitly going to keep adding to my list of upgrades and take some of your recomendations.
@@dainperrault585 glad to have helped. Next, I think I’m going to look at tires and wheels. Thinking about testing new tires vs new wheels to see which one makes the biggest difference.
@ would love to see that. Especially a set of new tires, I know everyone’s trails are different, but maybe a lighter weight tire that still has great performance. And affordable wheels after that to see the effects
@ exactly 👍 I have a set of hunt trail wide wheels and a newish set of fast rolling trail bike tires.
Next upgrade should be Rimpact tire inserts, DHF MaxxGrip 3C Exo 2.5 front, and DHR MaxxTerra 3C Exo+ 2.4 rear.
@@MMDX70 Tires make such a big difference 👍
Grips, pedals, bars and maybe a stem and dropper lever. No Trail One cockpit? Really like the PNW pedals and dropper lever. I only run Oury Pro lockon grips.
@@bellarogers7202 I want to throw Trail One bars and stem on so bad, but trying to do small upgrades to keep it more budget friendly. Eventually I’ll throw on a T1 stem, bars etc.
PNW Loam grips #1. Portland Designs foam lock on grips #2--Ya, PNW as a manufacturer should have color matching in their products across their offering--SDG BelAir saddle is a good choice, I've had no problems with various Amazon valve stems as well....
@@erik-g9d 👍
My blue pnw grips and pedals match
@@charlesholland6851 nice 👍 I was disappointed about the red ones not matching but love the way this bike looks with red ones it
I own the blue PNW grips also. Bought them in XL. I initially wasn't sure about which size to get, until I thought about my latex glove size, which is XL. Perfect fit! Lol
@ 👍
For grips, I like Lizard Skin grips. Two, based on personal experience, I much prefer having the spoke protector on vs. removing it. Why? Even if your limit screws are properly set, you can still hit a nasty bump that'll induce chain slap, and your chain will pop right off the cogset. Or, as happened to me on my vintage road bike (downtube shifters, BTW), you can downshift quickly and aggressively; I did that approaching an incline. This can cause your chain to miss the lower cog's teeth, and your chain goes between the cog and the spokes. Fortunately in my case, the spokes were only scratched; the damage was cosmetic. After that, I made sure that my whole fleet has spoke protectors; otherwise, you could be looking at a wheel rebuild.
@@markymarknj you make a good point for that scenario. I only ever pedal in the biggest cog when I’m climbing slowly up a steep mountain so I’ve never experienced that.
@@JaredHoff my vintage road bikes have downtube shifters so I can gain or dump a bunch of gears at once. I'd tried to build and maintain speed and momentum while approaching this incline, then dump a bunch of gears quickly so I could maintain what was left of my momentum. I was pedaling hard and fast, so the chain didn't quite catch the teeth of the low cog. If I'm on my MTB when I have to dump a bunch of gears, I just go from the middle ring to the granny ring; I just go to a lower range. I can also do that on my vintage Cannondale road bike too, which has 3x setup on it. However, my other vintage road bike, my Marukin, only has a 2x on it, and I was already on the low ring; my only choice was to go to the big cog ASAP.
Did you get rid of the T9? Great video by the way.
@@jasonstephens2923 Thanks! I have a friend who wanted the T9 so I sold it to him. I really wanted to do some budget bike vids which is why I got the T7. Plus I love the color
The T7 is on sale in the UK for £999 atm. Just ordered myself one!
@@shaneyg1988 heck yeah 👍 stoked for you!
@JaredHoff I think your T7 series is well timed! It's going to help a lot of new T7 owners, me included! 👌
@ heck yeah! Glad to hear that. Please tell people to use the links in my video description if they can. It really helps me out.
It looks great ❤❤❤ you don’t need to upgrde new hub????
@@silvergret I have a set of Hunt Trail wheels that cost about $500. The idea I have for an upcoming video is to find a $500 fork, then do a wheel versus fork upgrade to see which one makes the biggest difference.
That sounds like an awesome video. I personally reckon the answer is wheels 4 sure though. Really good wheels can be gotten for alot less than really good forks. And wheels don't only have their own compliance and weight/ rolling resistance properties but reduced wheel weight also improves suspension performance.
Question, will it be hard for me to trade a 2019 Marin Mount Vision 8 for an 2021 Canyon Sender CFR ?
@@lilhard2963 Trading bikes is something I’ve never dealt with. The current bike market has low resale prices which makes it difficult. But hopefully 🤞 you’ll be able to do that.
Get a bash guard on that bike, Jared.
@@confessionsofahorsedoctor2837 I usually don’t put them on my trail bikes only my enduro bikes or e-bikes
damn bro, your mic crapped out bout half way. It's always something right?
@@TheRickysee I was so disappointed when I review the footage and noticed that. Hopefully it still brings people value even with the bad audio.
It does
@@Mill72 thank you 🙏🏻
All of these "upgrades" are preferences, why call them anything different?
@@CJGrand1 but still essential upgrades that everyone needs to do to get a bike dialed for them. Right?
Those are true upgrades. Seat, grips, and pedals are the most important parts of riders experience with a bike, because that's where the body contacts the bike. Tubeless conversions increase grip and decrease rolling resistance and rotating mass. You seem like you should know better than to not call them upgrades.
Tires are the most important upgrade those vee tires are trash
@@hoobash agree that tires make a huge difference. I think these tires would work good for a front tire if I threw a faster rolling rear tire on there.
Tires and tubeless bammm 2 lbs gone = faster bike. Specialized fast tracks huge difference
A $1500 bike is budget bike??? 😮 So, at what price do you not need to upgrade a bike? 🤔
@@DesmondKarani I know mountain bikes are expensive. But for a full suspension trail bike that’s the budget. You can get one cheaper but it won’t be as capable. In fact, you prob need to spend closer to $2,000 to get something that requires no upgrades and even then you’ll need to buy pedals.
@JaredHoff Thanks for the response. I've been binging your content and I saw that you also upgraded the $2,300 Siskiu T9. Is there a specific bike you've owned and not upgraded anything (necessary upgrade) 🤔 I was really hoping something like T9 would be a complete bike.
@ The T9 doesn’t require upgrades to ride and have fun, but there are always little tweaks you can do to make a bike “perfect” for you.
That’s why I got the T7. I wanted to make a more “budget” friendly version of the T9. But even the T7 isn’t cheap
Id have upgraded the tyres first. Its the most important partof the bike, the only contact with the trail
Definitely 👍