"STONE" FOUNDATION REPAIR (part 3) Mike Haduck
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- Опубліковано 21 гру 2015
- In this video I repair a old stone foundation, This stone was old miners stone for a miners house and was not meant to show as stone work but was used to support the house, So I just gave it a quick stucco type of finish to patch the holes, All my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest anyone doing any type of
work to consult professional advice. www.amazon.com/shop/mikehaduck - Навчання та стиль
Your series of vids inspired me to rehab the stone foundation on my century old house starting about two years ago. I decided to do both the inside and outside which took me a little over a year working in the evening after work and on weekends. After knocking off an enormous amount of old waterproofing and failed mortar, I filled the holes with quick setting cement. Then I applied Quikrete Surface Bonding Cement which has fiberglass already in the mix. After that, I finished with a coat of UGL mold inhibiting paint. Prior to this effort, my basement was damp and dank. It's now my woodworking shop where I spend a lot of time. It looks great and is absolutely bone dry.
+Robert LeBras Great, you are the inspiration to the self doers, and I am glad in some way my videos helped, I am just passing along what I learned from the old timers, thanks mike
Mike Haduck
Mike I live in Chicago and my Greystone is over a hundred years old,after I tuckpoint I will be drywalling.
my question is should I use some kind of sealer or a vapor barrier?
Also thanks for all this oldschool knowledge "PRICELESS"
Did you dig down a lot when you repaired the outside? I'm in the same boat as you were.
Mike's videos are more entertaining and informative than anything on cable tv.
Thanks , Mike
Thank you Mike Haduck, for passing your knowledge/experience along. Watching your videos is like learning a new language.
Thanks Len, mike
Thank you! I have not been able to find anyone who does this so I now feel more confident to do this to my old 1890 home cracking sandstone foundation
Thanks, Mike
I never get tired of watching your videos they all allow me to be a better handyman. 🤙
Thanks Dario, I appreciate it, mike
You're the only masonry show I watch.
Thanks Ann, Mike
Hey Mike. I wanted to thank you for this video. It helped give me the knowledge i needed to repair my house's 100 year old stone foundation. There was very little lime cement left and a void 3 large stones high. Thanks to you i was able to confidently do the work myself. Cheers!
Thanks Dom, I appreciate hearing that, mike
Great how to's on process and mixes, love how you break away the old and get it ready for the new, caught the masonry bug less than a year ago and have had great success and your video library is a help Mike, keep it wet is right!
thanks whydoine, I appreciate it. mike
Great video! Easy to follow! Thanks for the cement and sand ratios and the clear shots of how thick to mix everything.
Thanks Daniel, Mike
I am a contractor for 35 years,
but I never really paid attention when masons did their work.
Now, I’m facing the foundation on my new house with 4” granite block fieldstones which range from 9x12 to 18x24.
But there’s a lot to this, to get it right!
Thanks for the great tips Mike
Thanks Ken, I appreciate it, Mike
like your vids its somehow satisfying to watch masonry work!
Thanks Gordon, mike
I've watched all of your videos and have recently started to work on my own 100 year old sandstone foundation in Nova Scotia, Canada. I really appreciate the time and effort you have put into making these helpful videos. I can honestly say I would not have attempted these repairs without the information i've learned here.
+David Mackenzie thanks, I appreciate it. just passing along what I learned from the old timers, mike
Great job Mike 👍
Another video I needed. Great info on mix for foundations. Thx.
Thanks, mike
Thanks I’m buying a 106 year old craftsman house and may need to do some repair work this is so awesome to see how your doing it🙏🙏🙏
Thanks Curtis, Mike
always good work/informative
+James Campbell thanks, James, I try, mike
seasons greetings mike and a happy new year
+darren harlow thanks and same back at you, I appreciate it , mike
Mike that looked easy, but it takes some work to dress them up like that nice job.Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.
+Donald Baus thanks Donald, Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and everybody out there, I appreciate it. Mike
Thanks for the tips
Thanks, Mike
Great job.. A+
Thanks Dennis, I appreciate it, Mike
Great job! It's a beaut
Thanks Gypsy, I appreciate it Mike
Thank you sooo much-!
Thanks George. Mike
Great old school repair on an old stone foundation. In 25 years of full-time home inspections, I've seen a lot of old stone foundations fall apart due to lack of maintenance. Excess mortar degradation leads to loose and displaced stones. Great job. I also love the little tip about perimeter surface drainage. It is by far the most common cause of basement flooding / moisture problems, over 90% as you stated. Simply maintaining a 5% slope for the first six feet from the walls out, will make a huge difference in maintaining a dry basement. This is especially applicable to stone foundations due to the porosity of the cement mortar joints.
Thanks Eric, I appreciate it, Mike
thank you
Thanks Michael. Mike
Wouldn't Lime mortar and sand be better because it breathes and is flexible for stone as other pros say in these N. Eastern/colder climates? I have researched over and over and it's stated other cements damages stone after 20-30 years, causing it spall/chip from wetness/moisture. I know you do things your way since the Hippies of the 60's & I luv your teaching.
thanks Memo, One thing about the use of cement is that everyone uses different stuff, In my area I use what works for me because If I did not I would get constant call backs, and the "experts" never put it in writing what I should use,(mostly because they have no experience in the real world), our family has 70 years of experience, and I try to show what I use in every episode,,, don't know what else to say, I hope it helps, thanks for the input, mike
the bloke is an idiot
i have been hearing the same thing, nhl 3.5 and sand. i used portland( 5 yrs ago ) on other parts of foundation and no visible cracks or anything...not sure who to believe...mike tks for the videos great info.
Looks good
thanks Jeff, I appreciate it. mike
Hi Mike. Thank you for sharing your videos! They are very educational. My question is about an old farmhouse built on a MI basement with a wide foundation made of mostly large, granite fieldstones. Half of the house sits on a crawl space, which is also on a fieldstone foundation. How would one change the crawl space into a full height basement using granite fieldstones for the foundation? The house is very straight and sturdy. The goal is to match the existing design. Thank you.
Hi, I couldn't say unless I seen it, now a days, everthing is shored up with concrete, thanks Mike
Mike have you ever ran into a snake in these old foundations ? I noticed a snake enter in a small space between the plate and the block. This is a addition and some concrete was missing, given just enough room for this snake (black snake) to get in.
I waited until I seen it come back out and then patched the hole. I was amazed how this snake was able to get in that small hole. I can now understand how people find these things in their house..
+Joseph M yep, seen quite a few, especially when you don't expect it. just the way things are, thanks mike
i have i question about block foundation. (Cinder block). can you go over it and make it look like stucco? if i had away i would send picture's of it.
that was on my birthday!
what a difference... you brought that back from the grave. Looked terrible before, looks great now.
+Joni Linn thanks Joni, anything that works, I appreciate it, mike
You do excellent work. Keep it up.:)
+Joni Linn thanks , mike
What Portland cement (paint) product and what mortar mix (fill & patch) did you use here?
Do you take PayPal donations?
Awesome video @Mike Haduck Masonry. I live over in Kingston PA. And this this is actually what the front of the foundation of my porch looks like! I might give this a try. I did have a question regarding cement walls in my garage which is built into a hill so 2 of my garage walls are submerged into the hill. With that it is there any way to fix the interior and exterior walls or would new cinder blocks needed to be put in? I have a section of my back wall that is about 3ftx2ft and at least 2inches in depth just not there.
Hi MrBlazin, I have other videos on "How I patch up or fix up a foundation," I think they would give you the best food for thought on that, I would think it determines how far you want to go with it, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Do you have any videos showing the different ratios or cement portable to sand? like in some of your videos your using a 1:1, others 3:1 etc.. do you have one that shows what different ratios do and what can be used for?
I have some videos called, masonry tips for beginners (part 1 to 3) Mike Haduck, there are a lot of variations with mixes and I did the best I could to explain it. It is more of an art than a science, anything that works, I hope it helps, thanks mike
This is really helpful. I think for my house foundation pillars, I will start with a gravel mix slab against the ground. Then for the upper part, soak the limestone rocks in water, paint some Portland mix on like you do and then use type-S mortar. Would you see any reason that wouldn't work?
Hi bike, I can't say unless I was there to see it, pillas you usually have to dig deep for a foundation, I can only show what I used in each situation, I hope it helps Mike
Thanks for the great videos Mike. I live in Minnesota and I have a two-story house that was built in 1886. The house has a limestone foundation that is crumbling in some places, and has had heavy cement smeared over it in some places to the point that it protrudes farther out than the siding. There is no basement under the house and I can only assume there are no footings that go below the frost line. I can see that it has been repointed and patched many times only to crack again. How do you deal with this kind of foundation and all of the seasonal movement?
Thank you, Brad Hall
Thanks for the videos!
Hi Brad, just like the old buildings in Europe, just keep patching them , most of my techniques are on my stone foundation repair or foundation repair videos, thanks I appreciate it, mike
Mike, your videos are great and very helpful! I have a question about your "Portland Glue". When we we had the kitchen floor tiled the guy put 1/4 inch plywood on top of the sub floor then tiled on top of that. Over time many tiles have come loose. When I replace tiles or eventually put new tile down, can I paint over the plywood with the Portland first or is there a different bonding agent I should use for wood? Thanks!
+knockitstiff I only use this Portland glue for parging or plaster like I did with the stone, I would go to the tile store and ask what is best for your situation. tile it a different world, they sell better stuff for sure, ,,,,,,,on part two on "how I lay tile on concrete (part 2)" I ground all the cement off the back of the tile and re-lay it., check it out, , I hope it helps thanks
+Mike Haduck I'll check it out. Thanks!
Your Right! Wow, popcorn hides alot of sins. Great Job Mike! / transformation!
+Jaime Visions In Stone Hey Jamie, thanks, my next video will be part 6 of the veneer where I mention your site. I will let you know , Merry Christmas, mike
Merry Christmas Mike! Thank You!
Mike -
Thank you for the terrific videos! They encouraged me to point "an old stone foundation from the miner days." It's in Pittsburgh, looks just like the one in your videos. Got a lot of dust out of the walls. I'm moving to the outside so, per your video, I'm switching from 3/4 Portland and 1/4 S type mortar to equal parts Portland and S type mortar for my mix - in both cases I'm using your recommended 2 to 1 sand to cement mixture. My question is, the exterior mix feels sandy and harder to work with. Can we use the interior mix on the outside or should we tough it out with this mix that seems to have a harder time sticking? What's the reason for the interior/exterior change?
Thank you so much.
Hi Gomez, I do the 2 parts mason sand to 1/2 part portland to 1/2 bucket S Mortar, ( NOT THE PREMIX WITH SAND ADDED) because it is a little more forgiving with cracks but there is very little difference, I had no problems, thanks Mike
Mike, is there an advantage of using half mortar and Portland over just Portland ?
+nicholas marcoux It all depends on the job , but I think in this case it was a little more flexible and sticky, and the weather was cold and mortar is more forgiving for that, but I don't like using straight mortar unless I can add a little Portland to it. thanks mike
Love these Videos! Thanks Mike! I accidentally used the pre-mix S mortar (with sand in it), instead of just S mortar when repairing a stone foundation. What problems may this cause, and should i try to remove it all and redo it? Thanks
Hi rium,,, I do use the premix for some jobs and I haven't had any problems, so if it is working and hasn't fallen off, I wouldn't worry about it, I hope it helps mike
@@MikeHaduck If I can't Find S mortar that isn't blended with sand, what can i do to get to the 2 parts sand to 1 part portland that you use for stone foundation repair? Should i just use portland and not the S-type? All of the s-mortar at the local store is blended with sand already. Thanks!
Near the end of video, you mentioned you brought more dirt to add. What type of dirt is good to add around the outside of foundation to build slope away from foundation? Would you recommend more clay type of dirt?
Hi Invest, I try and use a topsoil that water rolls off, and I would think the locals knows what works in your area, thanks, Mike
Should you ever dig down further on the outside to the base? I've heard conflicting info. Some say you can dig down to the point of even putting in an external tile drain with sump pump. Others say that is a bad idea as the foundation canteen bow and possibly collapse. Any experience with this?
Hi Mike, in the last 20 years I only seen one foundation dug down to footer, and it was a extreme circumstance, thanks Mike
Mike, you use "concrete" and "cement" interchangebly I many of your videos and it sometimes confuses me. In this video at t= 1:20 min, your recipe is 1/2 portland cement, 1/2 s-mortar, and 2 sand. Is that s-mortar mix, or s-mortar cement? Thanks for all your great & informative videos, BTW.
I am using regular s mortar cement,, (not the pre-mix) and adding portland to it, every job I do has a bit of different recipie , it is just one of those things but I could have used the pre-mix and I think it would be fine. but I had the cement on hand and used it, I hope it helps thanks mike
Thanks. I hope you don't think I am being a nit-picker, but even manufacturers get sloppy with the terminology. I'm never sure if we are talking about the bonding agent only or the mix when someone says "cement." Thank you again for your videos....
thank you, mike
Do the ratios of sand, to Portland to type S mortar mix differ between inside and outside patching? I live in the interior Northeast
Hi pro, every job is a bit different, I show what I used on each job, the job was in pa, thanks mike
I have a brick house built 1900, with stone foundation, I want to dig the basement down 2’ and underpin the stone. Is this possible or do I just replace the entire foundation in 3’ sections with concrete and rebar? Thanks
Hi Douglas, I can't say unless I was there to see it and it was dug down to see, but I rarely did anything with stone foundations unless they collapsed or sank, thanks mike
Hi Mike, Robin here. I have a question about repairing an old sandstone foundation. My house was built in 1860, Maeshall, Michigan. The foundation is sandstone above grade and fieldstone below grade. The sandstone is severely degraded in spots. There are even a couple stones missing on the side that has only a crawlspace. Michigan basement under dining & living room, the remainder has a crawlspace. I cannot afford to hire someone and so I am eager to learn the correct method. Years ago a layer of cement was plastered over the bad spot in front. It has since fallen away and the sandstone looks worse than before. Is it possible to buy new sandstones to shape & fit in voids? What is the proper mix for sandstone? I will appreciate any advice you can offer. I am very thankful for the videos you have made & shared. I found them while doing research on this problem. Thanking you in advance, Robbie
just happened to view your question to Mike. our places must be from the same era. we are in Western Penna.
our foundation is sandstone slabs; both up from ground level and below grade.
it has weathered and crumbled in places..especially where the basement is wet or outside where the rain and weather hit it.
i located what the local yards call gabion stone and used it with mortar inside.
came from a local quarry. they had every shape or size..especially the smaller ones i could lift and carry. plus most have cull or spall piles for odd sizes.
Mike and This Old House have how-to videos on youtube.
if something needed work to fit i used a mason chipping hammer and a diamond hand grinder to shape the sides.
Great videos! I live in a Historic District in Upstate NY, in a home that was built in 1859. The several generations that owned the house before me neglected the home, so now i'm trying to undo those years of neglect. There was terrible grade, probably a three inch drop over three feet TOWARDS the foundation, coupled with neglected gutters the overflowed right into the area. So I've got a section of the foundation that has bowed inward slightly, but more importantly, the stone is falling out on the outside. I plan to patch it, but my question is, how do you decide how far down to dig along the foundation? My basement wall probably extends down another 5 feet below grade, but I see you only dug a couple inches down. Is there any insight you can provide on the reasoning? I figured in the bad section, I would dig until I found solid wall again and patch everything above, but do you have advice for the rest?
Thanks! Again, great videos!
Hi Alden, it seems most of the lime mortar stays in place under the ground and mostly falls apart above ground so I just dig down about 4 to 5 inches, And that will tell me the story, you will mostly noticed the animal holes around the foundation if there is any, most of the time I never have a problem, I hope it helps thanks Mike
That certainly does help, Mike. Thank you! Gives me a little more confidence to tackle this job.
Hey Mike,
Thanks for your videos. Like another gentlemen here from Minnesota, I also have a home that dates back to 1912. I have some foundation repair to make. The foundation has some larger holes in spots. Some of the holes go all the way through to the inside. I noticed you used stone to fill them. What if you don't have stone to put back in the holes? Can you just use the mortar mix you mentioned, buy concrete blocks to fill? Is the mortar strong enough to fill in the holes without shrinking?
One additional, the weather is nice for the next couple of days and I hoped to get the outside patched before the cold set in and then work on the inside. What would you suggest?
Hi Steve, I am doing a old stone foundation now and I been filling the holes with anything like old bricks. Stone ,pieces of block anything that works, and I will keep going as long as it dont freeze at night for a few days, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for the reply Mike. Your videos are very helpful and appreciated. My local supply store was out of type s mortar premixed. So, I purchased the separate components you shared for us newbies. I purchased Portland, type S morter, and sand. I admit I have to go back and listen for the proportions again. Im glad you provided them.
I will also stop by and pickup some concrete blocks to break up and help fill the holes. Again, many thanks for your helpful advice and willingness to share. Have a great day!
hello, i was watching your videos on repair of old stone buildings. i own an historic building in california and the walls are 3 ft thick rock with cement coating. I noticed the cracks were getting bigger in one area and climbed into the attic which is dirt, and found a hole in the tin roofing, so im planning on fixing the hole in roof then repairing the wall cracks inside and outside. The question comes in is the outside outer layers including the cement with the rocks and the outer smoother layer is the same color as the dirt here. Can i just add dirt to my cement to get a better match than nothing. Im guesing they used the dirt for the coloring. do you know if back in 1850's if they used dirt in the cement? if so how much do i add, i dont want to compromise the cement im filling in the large cracks. our dirt here is like red clay like color, and the building has like a redish tint like an adobe redish tint. thanking you in advance,
Hi, I have a playlist called " repointing stonework " I show where I paint the outside joints with mud to make them look old, but I never mix mud in with the cement, thanks, Mike
I live in northern ny, cold winters. Is it acceptable to use straight type s mortar to do this to a similar foundation?
+silas all the experts say it different but I usually do 1/2 s mortar to 1/2 Portland when I mix it with mason sand, (1 cement to 2 parts sand) It works for me and it is a timing thing, every situation is different, so a little experimenting should not hurt, thanks mike
+Mike Haduck thanks Mike, I enjoy your videos and they are perfect for first time home owners!
+silas thanks, I appreciate it. Mike
Really good video, 250 year old foundation with numerous poor repairs. Any tips on forming and pouring around large foundation boulders to make sure cement adheres to the rock.?
Need to square off around the rocks where foundation turns to brick.
Hi, I can't say unless I was there to see it, I just show in my playlist what I did in different situations, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck thank you
Won't portland cement / mortar damage the stonework in the future? A few old school british builders say that it's betrer to use a softer mix by using lime
Hi Félix, up there the weather is different, it will not hold up here, thanks, Mike
You are correct cement will damage the stone as it traps moisture. Lime mortar allows the stone to breathe. Cement should never be used
Hi mike, I just wondered if you've run into what I have in my basement. It is partial fieldstone basement and the other half has dirt mounded up on it about 5 ft on the interior of the basement? I've watched your repoint videos but cannot find what to do with this dirt portion. Any ideas?
Hi bd, watch my videos, "Foundation repair" or "stone foundation repair" they might give you some ideas, thanks Mike
Thanks. I’ve watched the stone repairs but didn’t see anything in dirt walls. I’ll skim over them again
Nice patch up job Mike. But why don't you remove all that old portland based render, rake back the joints and re-point in lime based mortar?
+Matthew Cartwright this foundation was slag stone from the mines and it is not a veneer type show stone, lots of folks around here only accept certain fixes, especially as they get older. I made the mix half Portland and half mortar, regular mortar don't hold up around here, someday I got to do a video on that, thanks for the comment. mike
+Mike Haduck a video about that would be awesome! on a side note how long does this type of repair hold up in your part of the country Mike?
+infinitestarz I did a video called , "how I repoint a old stone wall (part 2) Mike Haduck" and I am working on a couple others , but that should show something like your are asking about, as long as there is rain gutters it will last a long long time., especially if Portland it added, thanks mike
thanks Mike!
Hi mike, I'm not sure how much water I should put in the mix to make it good like yours.
How much water should I use?
and is S mortar mix different than just s mortar? or are they the same thing?
Hi at one time you bought the cement and sand separately and mixed it, I still do that a lot, now you can buy a premix with the sand already added, and occasionally I will use that too. It has become confusing for sure. Just know which is which, do a little experimenting in a area least seen ,wait a couple days and see what works, I have a series out, " what cement should I use" check it out, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck hey Mike, just wanted to let you know we followed your instructions and tips and everything turned out really nice! We're very happy with the end result!
Thanks so much for your help, we really appreciate it!
I have flag stone and it's very cold here in Pa. Would the mix be the same?
Hi Fran, I am not there but I think it would be, thanks Mike
What can you do when the s mortar comes premixed in this situation? What would be the ratio of sand and portland? Thanks!
Hi MrBlazin, on some smaller jobs I will use the pre mix, all you got to do is open the bag and the sand and cement is already to go , you just add water like a pancake batter, I just like the old way because I can control my ratios for certain type jobs, otherwize I almost always say what I use on each job, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Thank you sir, Yea I plan on parging around my stone foundation here in NEPA so just wanted to know before I get into it one of these weekends when it doesn't rain. haha
Hey Mike, I need similar done.
What kind of contractor am I looking for, and what should I ask them?
Hi 67, I can't say, I would think you get some opinions and go from there, Thanks Mike
For a guy just starting out on his own... What's a reasonable bid for a job like that... I know it can depend on the size. & whether you're just doing the inside or out etc etc... But still, just an idea.
Thanks
Hi Daniel, I mostly have repeat customers so I just figure my time and the materials, if I get greedy I will not get called back, but if I am more than fair I will get constantly recommended and never be short of work, better to be a little cheaper in the beginning, I hope that makes sense, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck No, it does. I agree. Thanks.
Why do you add 1/2 bucket of mortor?
Hi Jose, my usual mixes are 2 parts mason sand to one part cement, but some times I will say. 2 buckets of sand to 1/2 bucket mortar and 1/2 bucket Portland which equals one full bucket, same thing, just two different cements, thanks mike
I have a very significant situation that I could use some guidance on. Do you have any contact info ?
Hi James, I appreciate it, but I can't do anything over phone or internet, thanks Mike
Hi there mike why do you ever use a pressure washer
Hi Jorge, rarely , it makes too much of a mess, but on somethings I agree they can hasten things up, thanks Mike
I don't think the climates are that much difference (northern England) and I do not believe this is the right thing to do for soft stone. I've never seen Mike use Naturally Hydrologic Lime 3.5 of 5.0. There are tons of videos of soft brick walls and stone walls repointed with cement. It always ends badly. It always looks good for the first few years.
Hi Wallace, around here it’s almost impossible to find naturally hydrologic lime, and I never seen anybody use it till I went to conwy castle, our weather it does not hold up, I agree about the soft brick and lime stone, but every thing else I better add Portland or I will be back redoing it in a few years, and every old timers will say the same thing, Thanks mike
repairing old stone houses rule #1 - never ever put cement over lime.
Hi Da, I been doing this over 50 years, and I got to go around and fix everybodies job who uses lime because it don't work here, with respect Mike
@@MikeHaduckappreciate your experience, but lime only doesn't work if it's done badly. those ancient churches and castles you talked about, there's a reason they are still standing after many centuries - in the case of roman/byzantine and other ancient buildings, millennia - in many parts of the world in many different climates, from desert to alpine. all built with lime. it works everywhere.
I agree for those but in my area on the flat, I'd be back fixing it within a few years, thanks Mike
Wow that was bad. Looks like a critter condo wall.
I am kinda natural look type of guy, man, I think your technique destroyed the stone wall. I would do pointing.
Hi zhi, that stone was waste from the coal mines, its soft and falls apart, not worth it, thanks mike
I was wondering why you didn’t just strike the joints but if the stone is weak or porous makes sense! Pennsylvania is full of these foundations, I’m outside Pittsburgh!
So bade
Thanks Essa, I will try harder, mike
At the 28 second mark, you can see a little opossum face looking out from one of the holes near the foundation. This makes me so sad. :(
Hi Sandy, I didn't see any, Mike
Jesus,forgives sins.
Thanks Al, Mike
What about 7 inch deep stone foundations . And massive amounts of rain have washed the dirt it stands on… into the basement ? 🥲😅
Hi Kev, I never heard of a 7 inch deep foundation, not in my area, thanks Mike